The best way to become an expert is to TEACH. You are well on your way as you can explain everything you are doing and why for us un-initiated. Great job!
I think I’m going to have to get the book and the tool. I can see a whole bunch of uses for the tool. Once again, an excellent instructional video. Thanks for another fantastic episode.
Thanks. If you liked this you might like our other videos. Might I suggest you start with this playlist CAPABLE CRUISING GUIDES: ua-cam.com/play/PLsT7_jPsZM5pFpq8RX0oxjibknM2Gz361.html
Emily. Good instruction. Easy to understand video. There's something about you that's fun watch. Maybe because you seem genuine and unrehearsed. Thank you.
this is a very well done video. the only thing I do differently is that my taper is longer - usually bunch the standing dyneema all the way to the knot and then take strands out every 3 or 4 and cut them off before tapering the end. This becomes more important if you want to keep the dyneema closer to the line diameter, which helps if it passes through a block or bullseye. There is also a pretty neat way to do a brummel if you only have one end to work with, but you can't put it around a thimble or shackle. The other thing you might add if you do another brummel video is the importance of the locking part going through the working end and not back through the standing part - if it goes through the standing part it *will* pull out.
Love you guys. Keep telling me stuff I think I already know. A man who thinks he knows everything is a fool. A wise man can learn from a fool but a fool learns from no one
I loved your learn 5 knots video and now I love this splice video too. You explain things in an easy to understand way and have taught me some very useful skills. Thanks
I believe that is a regular brummel splice, which is used when you have both ends available. The mobius brummel is slightly different, and is used when you only have one end available.
Hello Emily and Clark---Another nice video here. I wished I had seen this back in 1996 when I was replacing my very heavy 3/8 galvanized wire standing rigging with Dyneema, when it was really expensive! What I did, after considerable guesswork, was to perform the 6 strand pass through (as you started) and then, because I did not know anything, was to stitch stitch, stich with dacron waxed thread and then (because I am so afraid of UV damage) fully serve the whole thing with black seine twine and then paint black, (more UV protection). That's my current standing rigging on my gaff cutter. Your solution is much more elegant, but all my sins are covered with my black seine twine serving....lol. Ted PS I've taken my boat to the Wooden Boat Show in port Townsend several times, and Brian and Pete and John and Mike would visit and talk and I would listen. Brian Toss was a national treasure. Sorely missed.
I learned a splice today from a bargain store dock line with loops at both ends for $1! It has a bury but it's not a brummel. The splicing needle pierces the braid, the the working end goes around the standing end and loops back across itself and immediately starts the bury by entering the original exit hole. When dressed it locks the buried splice with and overhand knot. I'm not sure how long the bury needs to be, but the rope that I found is slick 16 strand hollow braid 3/8" yellow polypropyline "ski" rope . The loops are 5", the overhand lock is 1" and the bury is 6". Not quite as smooth as your mobius but it's fast.
Good video! It is channels like yours that make me keep coming back to YT… hopefully you won’t be forced off by all the changes Google sure making to YT in their efforts to making it better (ie more profitable)…
I learned in the Coast Guard how to do different splices and line types and now I use it with my Spectra hollow sliceable fishing line to make repairs and to add line when it breaks while fishing.
The fid with the blue handle is known as a Swedish fid. The eye is good for this use but the small radius turn does weaken the line. It will be weaker than if you used a thimble to make it bend less.
good one! ... you prompted me order the new edition of Toss' rigging book - thanks! Another interesting splicing video would be putting an eye in the end of double-braid line. If ppl don't have the Brian Toss wand (very hard to find now), they can use stiff wire (a bit smaller than coat hanger wire) bent in half instead as the tail-puller - or they can buy a D-loop splicing tool.
Yes, there are a lot of tools out there. I tried a bunch before I tried the wand. Haven't felt the need to change since. I'm not sure about a video on double braid. I think that's better taught by a book and anyone that serious will probably already have a book. But I do need to do one this season. Maybe. I think people are getting sick of rope work but eventually I'll do one on three strand. Again so easy anyone can succeed after one watching and an important skill to have. Once I'm out of bed I think s refrigeration video is coming. I have a slow leak I need to fix. So I'll be taking the sled out. Good time to show how it all works. Also a good prereq video for air conditioning. It's starting to get hot! -C
Thank you for sharing, so I'll share a tip for you to get your scissor sharpie then ever easily: just cut some soda cans with then. Hugs for you and Clark from Brazil
Ty for making me buy another book and tools I might never need :-) .... I wonder if the splice got its name from Beau Brummel who lived in times where a tie knot in society was often as much important as a tight knot in sailing . Happy splicing and sail safe.
This is a pair of cutters that I use for Spectra which is similar to the line that you use and may be called Dyneema and they work great Pitbull Tackle Braided Line cutter 2.0. They cost about $14-18 depending on where you purchase the cutters. When you do the splice, you should start a little farther to adjust for the rope thickness and allows room for the tapering of the end of rope.
MOBIUS: Maybe I'm wrong, but my understanding is, including the word "mobius" in the name of this splice referred to a method of making the splice where you don't need access to the standing end of the line. This is useful if the line is very long or the standing end is already secured or has bulky hardware attached.
love the splice ! looks easy and pretty! though i feel like i would just use a figure 8 . yes its not as seamless but it dont need any tools, precision or time.
Bad idea to use knots on Dyneema, VERY BAD! The strength can be fare below 50% and dyneema is as slick as Teflon. The knot will not hold! Brummel lock is one of the very best ways to splice Dyneema. Knots will kill people!
@@mikeiver if you are using the dyneema for such heavy loads then yes the splice is the only safe way to go, but if you are using only a fraction of its breaking strain, eg: pulling 300kg with 6mm dyneema(3200kg breaking) then a figure 8 will not slip. I put loads twice that with no slip with figure 8s. The great thing about its slipperiness is that it is much easier to break up the knot than any other line that you'd subject to that kind of load This is just my experience working with dyneema having used different knots, and loads. Not trying to discourage using splicing at all, it kssignificantly stronger and seamless.
Great explanation......I use a bent piece of wire to thread the line through (for me easier, less complicated, cheaper, more vesitile can use on wide range of rope diameters). I dont know if this is the 'right' way but I also use my fid a different way......poke it through then feed the end of the rope from the tapered end, laid in the grove, this lets me naturally pull the end through as I withdraw the fid. Next level would be to make and use soft shackles (instead of stainless hardware).......maybe another video.
Any tool that works is the right tool. The real value if the wand is with double braid. I used a bunch of other tools. They all worked but there was a bunch of tape involved. The wand was faster and less messy so once I tried it I stayed with it. For single braid it's a needless expense. I've just started with soft shackles. I'm really liking them but I'm not really taking advantage. Biggest use right now is tying down our been bag chairs. What a waste of a good idea. I plan on turning the core of that piece of dynema double braid into a soft shackle. It's an idea I saw in the rigging doctors channel. Then it will become a genoa sheet with built in knot. -C
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the reply, commented cause you asked what other people did. Totally agree sometimes the best tool is the tool that works, your tool would be great for double braid splicing. I like the intergrated terminal sheet soft shackle idea but prefer the versatility of a simple eye splice and separate shoft shackle. Other youtube resources you might consider for soft shackles are Bottom UP Boats, premium ropes and howNOTtohighline. Keep up the great work, cheers
2:55 Dyneema is great for lots of things, but I wouldn't use it for a painter, where you want a good deal of elasticity to take up shocks and reduce stresses on the boat. So the ideal is twisted nylon. Which can also be spliced in the old fashion
The problem is nylon sinks and can get I to the prop. I have found that dyneema (with a snubber) also sinks eventually possibly due to marine growth. What we are doing now and it's great is I put some cheap polypropylene inside the dyneema. It's like a nonfunctional core. The dyneema now floats better and the poly compresses when there is a shock load absorbing energy. The dyneema protects the poly from the sun and provides plenty of strength.
@Emily & Clark's Adventure true, it does sink, but I've never dropped the painter in the water. And if you do, it's still tied to the bow. Polypropylene is just such nasty stuff I can't put it on a boat. Breaks down under UV, and has the feeling of rubbing blocks of polystyrene foam when you try to tie knots in it.
The problem with sinking isn't losing the line. It's that if you back down while towing it can get in the prop. The poly inside the dyneema doesn't see the sun so doesn't break down. There are some high quality poly out there (New England ropes) that feel nice I know what you mean though We are all captains. Do it as you wish.
That is not a Mobius Brummell splice, it is simply a Brummel splice. You don’t Whip two lines together, you Seize them; in this case, it is to prevent the splice unreeving in slow, light airs which can cause gentle, creeping tugs, loosening the splice or causing it to gradually pull out. The taper is where the strength in the splice is. Vernon
Is this really the Mobius version? I thought that was when you did not have access to both ends of the rope and had to loop one hole in on itself to feed the other loop through which untwisted the first hole....
We found different definitions. Most importantly this is the type you can splice around something. That is not shown as much and I think more useful. We likely got the name wrong
@@EmilyAndClark -- Just found this video from the rope company that shows both methods and they call the one that I mention above the Mobius version... ua-cam.com/video/WOBs_aCxZ0c/v-deo.html I haven't tried splicing the actual Mobius version around something yet, but a shackle would not be a problem since you could just unscrew the shaft of the shackle... :) Maybe splicing into the end of a link of chain would be a better example... I'm going to have to think about it a bit so see if there is a way around it... Probably not... Probably just need to use a lock stitch instead of a Brummel lock... :)
I have a question, but first I really appreciate your video, it is really well explained, and I've come back to it many times! My question is what do I do if I have a core, but it's not a braided core. I've been looking all over UA-cam, and I'm just struggling to know what to do with my core. There's plenty of really good tutorials on double braided ropes, but I have a cheap polypropylene rope, and it has a core, but it's just a filler. Can someone please point me in the direction of an answer? I have done a decent amount of splicing, with other ropes and I know I could just pull out the core, and do it like this video, but taking out the core makes the eye thin and weaker. So I'd rather not do that. The other thing I've thought of is just leaving the core in and ignoring it, but then I couldn't have my buried end in the middle of the working end as the core is in the way, and the Chinese finger trap principal would be less effective. Those are the only easy thing I've come up with...
Hi Michaela, This is Clark. We are so happy to hear you enjoyed Emily's video. Thanks for responding. I believe I know the line you are talking about. If it's what I think it is it's not really worth splicing. The line I am thinking about is really weak and dies quickly in the sun. I used this kind of line as dinghy painter but though it was readily available and extremely cheap I wasn't happy. In one season it degraded to the point it parted. That said, it heals a know well as polypropylene goes. As for splicing,. There is a type of line called parallel core. An example of this in good quality rope would be new England ropes stay set X. This line has similar construction and might be splicible using the same method. If you can't find an online reference I suggest Brian Tosses book (link in the description). That what I used to learn this splice. But my main suggestion for this line assuming it's the one I'm thinking of and you really want a splice is to do it with sewing and serving. Put the line through your shackle or whatever and sew it back to itself. Then do a whipping or three. Hope that helps
@@EmilyAndClark Thank you! That is really helpful! I am aware that it is a really cheap line, and in this case I'm using the line to hold down a tent rain fly, so I was hoping that using a splice rather than a knot would help it last longer :). I have done some sailing and love trying to make my ropes and such last longer, but right now I'm land locked so splicing ropes for camping is as fancy as I get. My thinking is that on shipboard the line would get all kinds of weathering and have less chance of learning then my occasionally tenting... You are probably right about it not being worth a splice but since spicing is my joy, I'm giving it a shot 🙂
For camping I'd use paracord a lot. Cheap small light and probably stronger at it's 500 lb rating. I made a sling for my jungle knife (machete kind of thing) from 25 feet of paracord. That way if I have the knife I have cord. Can't splice it but sewing and whipping would look real nice.
Do you have that need? But lots of options. You could just bury a lot of tail inside the working end and sew or add a long whipping to the throat. We have a video on whipping. It's me,Clark and the title is something like how a sailor cuts a rope.
Great video, very clear. But I disagree with your number 72. There is no need to bury so much line in the standing end. I use this splice regularly in much thinner kitesurfing lines using a simple copper wire as the tool, and just bury what’s left. So in your case, I’d leave 6 inches not 18. I can’t see how burying more would make it any stronger.
Watch the HowKNOT2 channel for a while to see how Dyneema will just come out! I use shorter buries for some purposes like when doing a soft shackle but it is the bury that gives the splice its strength, not the Brummel. For standing rigging I would certainly use the 72x (and maybe more).
Dyneema is very unforgiving of improper splicing. Though you have the most basic part down you missed the taper of the tail which is critical when looking for maximum strength from ones expensive Dyneema. In the case of SK78 1/4" you also need a more gradual taper from the Shackle to the first dive thru the rope. Even then the turn is to sharp and the dyneema will break long before its rating. Also not having the buried tail tapered further reduces the ultimate strength of the rope. In this case it actually doesn't matter since the shackle is far weaker than the rope even taking into account the improperly spliced Brummel lock. Edit: I see that she updated the video to include a taper of the tail. Dyneema off of Amazon is variable as to quality, spec, and actual strength. But again, considering the service and the shackle attached, this will most likely be strong enough anyway. To get closer to ultimate strength it would be preferred to use a tubular thimble to increase the radius for the dyneema at the critical point of the shackle and protect from ware. Good video now and covers the basics well. Glad to see people that put up videos like this iterate and improve when they, like all of us do, miss something.
I'm working on replacing my standing rigging with Dyneema, and I started with Brummel splices. But now everybody is getting me that a simple long bury with locking stitches is stronger.
I personally wouldn't do standing rigging with dyneema. It is plenty strong but easy to cut. Basically if you do this your rig is at risk to anyone with a knife.
@@EmilyAndClark Everything on a boat is a trade-off. Synthetic has advantages and disadvantages compared to steel. That said, that some vandal might decide to cut my rigging is not a disadvantage I'm concerned about.
Then yes it has advantages And it's so amazing that it can be so strong! I really don't know which is stronger but I would assume they are the same The bremel part is just to keep it from moving at low loads. The burry is where the real strength lies and both approaches have that.
@@EmilyAndClark For me the main advantage is that i can replace it myself with simple splicing tools. As for Brummel vs lock-stitch, I've been told Brummel results in a 20-30% loss in strength. That said, if you're sizing Dyneema for equivalent stretch to steel, you end up about 500% stronger than you need, so that might not really matter.
The Brummel and the locking stitch serve the same purpose - keeping the splice from coming apart when not under load. Both require the long bury for strength. I would worry about the threads in the locking stich breaking when it is loaded.
Lots of confusing info on the internet. I thought the 72X was when you just made a loop and fed it back into the line without the brummel locking splice. With the brummel, the bury only needs to be 21X the diameter. That's what I do and haven't had a fail yet. So I would say 72X isn't wrong it's just overkill and a waste of line. Happy to be contradicted.
The Brummel does not add any strength to the splice. It simply keeps it from coming undone when not under load. Your splices haven't come out because you haven't loaded them to that extent.
Think of this splice as two slices. The bury is for the high load strength the bremmel part is for before the loads get high enough for the bury to do it's thing. You can get a fair strong strength by just burying the tail and doing some sewing for the low load holding
Sailing zingaro had a catamaran with all standing rigging was made from dyneema on a passage from Galapagos to Hawaii the Portside pontoon started to tear off of his boat and he used dyneema and lasted all back together managed to get into Port the boat was total but it got him home
@@EmilyAndClark yeah that was the first cat but 3 channels I watch with catamarans on them they're having the same problem with pontoon starting to tear loose from the boat from the bridge deck , I just dont think cats are designed to take the stresses of open ocean cruising
At 7:10 there’s a cutaway to you, and then when the closeup returns, the dyneema has been rotated and you can’t see what you refer as “this and this.” At 7:18 you call the “standing end” the “working end.” Good video but kind of lost this newbie there.
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UpkqJ4GRfSg/mqdefault.jpg)
![[How to] Dyneema Eye Splice | Sailing Wisdom](/img/tr.png)
![Learn 5 KNOTS for Sailing [Capable Cruising Guides]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/fvh_LWBaomg/mqdefault.jpg)
You have a great teaching style, you make what you’re doing easy to follow and understand.
Thank you! 😊
Thanks Matthew
The best way to become an expert is to TEACH. You are well on your way as you can explain everything you are doing and why for us un-initiated. Great job!
If You Can't Explain It Simply You Don't Understand It Well Enough: Albert Einstein Quote
Wow, that was a lot easier than I had envisioned. Thanks!
I think I’m going to have to get the book and the tool. I can see a whole bunch of uses for the tool.
Once again, an excellent instructional video. Thanks for another fantastic episode.
Wonderful tutorial - easy to follow step-by-step instructions, well done. Thanks for showing.
Thanks. If you liked this you might like our other videos. Might I suggest you start with this playlist
CAPABLE CRUISING GUIDES: ua-cam.com/play/PLsT7_jPsZM5pFpq8RX0oxjibknM2Gz361.html
Wow, you are amazing. Great teaching skills. My kids 10, 15 & 16 love your videos. ❤
Best mobius splice demo i have seen!!!
Thumbs up, please make more of these!
Fantastic demo ! Thanks for a really well presented video.
Emily. Good instruction. Easy to understand video. There's something about you that's fun watch. Maybe because you seem genuine and unrehearsed. Thank you.
I’d say you have done this a few times! Nice work!! Hanks for the tutorial!!!
Actually it was her first day splicing. I showed here how to do it. She tried one. Then we filmed this. -C
thanks Teach !!!!, as always, riveting lesson, totally enjoyed.
Another gem duly shared. Top stuff.
Thanks Fazzaa
I LOVE Dyneema!!!! ❤❤
this is a very well done video. the only thing I do differently is that my taper is longer - usually bunch the standing dyneema all the way to the knot and then take strands out every 3 or 4 and cut them off before tapering the end. This becomes more important if you want to keep the dyneema closer to the line diameter, which helps if it passes through a block or bullseye. There is also a pretty neat way to do a brummel if you only have one end to work with, but you can't put it around a thimble or shackle. The other thing you might add if you do another brummel video is the importance of the locking part going through the working end and not back through the standing part - if it goes through the standing part it *will* pull out.
Love you guys. Keep telling me stuff I think I already know. A man who thinks he knows everything is a fool. A wise man can learn from a fool but a fool learns from no one
I loved your learn 5 knots video and now I love this splice video too. You explain things in an easy to understand way and have taught me some very useful skills. Thanks
My kids did too❤
Well done, you are a good teacher, Cheers, Richard
Outstanding work 👏🏻👏🏻
Thanks
Nice job it’s a lot simpler than I thought! Thank you!
Great video Emily and it looks so easy when you splice! :-) Thanks for all the tips and links to the kit and book.
I believe that is a regular brummel splice, which is used when you have both ends available. The mobius brummel is slightly different, and is used when you only have one end available.
Hello Emily and Clark---Another nice video here. I wished I had seen this back in 1996 when I was replacing my very heavy 3/8 galvanized wire standing rigging with Dyneema, when it was really expensive! What I did, after considerable guesswork, was to perform the 6 strand pass through (as you started) and then, because I did not know anything, was to stitch stitch, stich with dacron waxed thread and then (because I am so afraid of UV damage) fully serve the whole thing with black seine twine and then paint black, (more UV protection). That's my current standing rigging on my gaff cutter. Your solution is much more elegant, but all my sins are covered with my black seine twine serving....lol. Ted
PS I've taken my boat to the Wooden Boat Show in port Townsend several times, and Brian and Pete and John and Mike would visit and talk and I would listen. Brian Toss was a national treasure. Sorely missed.
Thank you Emily, great tutorial and one for my reference list.
Excellent job on this!
Very nice videos
Thank you.
I hope you enjoy our other videos
Refreshing clear tutorial it helps to have a woman’s explanation, as the small details are not glossed over.
Thanks John
Mind blown! Another awesome, informative video
Thanks Brian
I learned a splice today from a bargain store dock line with loops at both ends for $1! It has a bury but it's not a brummel. The splicing needle pierces the braid, the the working end goes around the standing end and loops back across itself and immediately starts the bury by entering the original exit hole. When dressed it locks the buried splice with and overhand knot. I'm not sure how long the bury needs to be, but the rope that I found is slick 16 strand hollow braid 3/8" yellow polypropyline "ski" rope . The loops are 5", the overhand lock is 1" and the bury is 6". Not quite as smooth as your mobius but it's fast.
Nice dyneema work, Emily! Great video. RIP Brian. I had the chance to chat with him, he was a top bloke.
Good video! It is channels like yours that make me keep coming back to YT… hopefully you won’t be forced off by all the changes Google sure making to YT in their efforts to making it better (ie more profitable)…
Looks like a good book to have. Thank you
Great vid, Mobius Brummel, great name for a character in a novel.
My new chanty band is using this name.
This is actually not a Mobius Brummel but a regular Brummel.
Yep. Wish videos were editable
I learned in the Coast Guard how to do different splices and line types and now I use it with my Spectra hollow sliceable fishing line to make repairs and to add line when it breaks while fishing.
Outstanding thank you 👏🏻👏🏻
The fid with the blue handle is known as a Swedish fid. The eye is good for this use but the small radius turn does weaken the line. It will be weaker than if you used a thimble to make it bend less.
That was amazing! Thanks~
good one! ... you prompted me order the new edition of Toss' rigging book - thanks! Another interesting splicing video would be putting an eye in the end of double-braid line. If ppl don't have the Brian Toss wand (very hard to find now), they can use stiff wire (a bit smaller than coat hanger wire) bent in half instead as the tail-puller - or they can buy a D-loop splicing tool.
Yes, there are a lot of tools out there. I tried a bunch before I tried the wand. Haven't felt the need to change since.
I'm not sure about a video on double braid. I think that's better taught by a book and anyone that serious will probably already have a book. But I do need to do one this season. Maybe.
I think people are getting sick of rope work but eventually I'll do one on three strand. Again so easy anyone can succeed after one watching and an important skill to have.
Once I'm out of bed I think s refrigeration video is coming. I have a slow leak I need to fix. So I'll be taking the sled out. Good time to show how it all works. Also a good prereq video for air conditioning. It's starting to get hot! -C
Also, assumed you used our affiliate link, thanks.
Keep the rope stuff coming.
Thank you for sharing, so I'll share a tip for you to get your scissor sharpie then ever easily: just cut some soda cans with then. Hugs for you and Clark from Brazil
Thanks Wendel
Great video 😊
Thank you Lance
Ty for making me buy another book and tools I might never need :-) .... I wonder if the splice got its name from Beau Brummel who lived in times where a tie knot in society was often as much important as a tight knot in sailing .
Happy splicing and sail safe.
Очень наглядно и понятно! Инструменты практически подобны нашим. Успехов!!
This is a pair of cutters that I use for Spectra which is similar to the line that you use and may be called Dyneema and they work great Pitbull Tackle Braided Line cutter 2.0. They cost about $14-18 depending on where you purchase the cutters. When you do the splice, you should start a little farther to adjust for the rope thickness and allows room for the tapering of the end of rope.
Nice one 👍👏👏🇬🇧
Excelente!
Acompanhando vocês daqui do Brasil.
I love this Sailor Girl =)
MOBIUS: Maybe I'm wrong, but my understanding is, including the word "mobius" in the name of this splice referred to a method of making the splice where you don't need access to the standing end of the line. This is useful if the line is very long or the standing end is already secured or has bulky hardware attached.
I think you are right
And I think that can't be done around a shackle
At least I can't figure out how. -C
@@EmilyAndClark It would be challenging to do around a shackle! You would have to get the shackle through the reversed hole in the line!
I was wondering how to fix my winch cable (winch not wench) if it gets damaged.- now I know, Thanks God Bless !
I was wondering if you could put an loop on a closed eye thanks.
love the splice ! looks easy and pretty!
though i feel like i would just use a figure 8 . yes its not as seamless but it dont need any tools, precision or time.
Bad idea to use knots on Dyneema, VERY BAD! The strength can be fare below 50% and dyneema is as slick as Teflon. The knot will not hold! Brummel lock is one of the very best ways to splice Dyneema. Knots will kill people!
@@mikeiver if you are using the dyneema for such heavy loads then yes the splice is the only safe way to go, but if you are using only a fraction of its breaking strain, eg: pulling 300kg with 6mm dyneema(3200kg breaking) then a figure 8 will not slip. I put loads twice that with no slip with figure 8s. The great thing about its slipperiness is that it is much easier to break up the knot than any other line that you'd subject to that kind of load
This is just my experience working with dyneema having used different knots, and loads. Not trying to discourage using splicing at all, it kssignificantly stronger and seamless.
Great explanation......I use a bent piece of wire to thread the line through (for me easier, less complicated, cheaper, more vesitile can use on wide range of rope diameters). I dont know if this is the 'right' way but I also use my fid a different way......poke it through then feed the end of the rope from the tapered end, laid in the grove, this lets me naturally pull the end through as I withdraw the fid.
Next level would be to make and use soft shackles (instead of stainless hardware).......maybe another video.
Any tool that works is the right tool. The real value if the wand is with double braid. I used a bunch of other tools. They all worked but there was a bunch of tape involved. The wand was faster and less messy so once I tried it I stayed with it. For single braid it's a needless expense.
I've just started with soft shackles. I'm really liking them but I'm not really taking advantage. Biggest use right now is tying down our been bag chairs. What a waste of a good idea.
I plan on turning the core of that piece of dynema double braid into a soft shackle. It's an idea I saw in the rigging doctors channel. Then it will become a genoa sheet with built in knot. -C
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the reply, commented cause you asked what other people did.
Totally agree sometimes the best tool is the tool that works, your tool would be great for double braid splicing.
I like the intergrated terminal sheet soft shackle idea but prefer the versatility of a simple eye splice and separate shoft shackle.
Other youtube resources you might consider for soft shackles are Bottom UP Boats, premium ropes and howNOTtohighline.
Keep up the great work, cheers
Thanks. All add those to my list
2:55 Dyneema is great for lots of things, but I wouldn't use it for a painter, where you want a good deal of elasticity to take up shocks and reduce stresses on the boat. So the ideal is twisted nylon. Which can also be spliced in the old fashion
The problem is nylon sinks and can get I to the prop.
I have found that dyneema (with a snubber) also sinks eventually possibly due to marine growth.
What we are doing now and it's great is I put some cheap polypropylene inside the dyneema. It's like a nonfunctional core.
The dyneema now floats better and the poly compresses when there is a shock load absorbing energy.
The dyneema protects the poly from the sun and provides plenty of strength.
@Emily & Clark's Adventure true, it does sink, but I've never dropped the painter in the water. And if you do, it's still tied to the bow. Polypropylene is just such nasty stuff I can't put it on a boat. Breaks down under UV, and has the feeling of rubbing blocks of polystyrene foam when you try to tie knots in it.
The problem with sinking isn't losing the line. It's that if you back down while towing it can get in the prop.
The poly inside the dyneema doesn't see the sun so doesn't break down. There are some high quality poly out there (New England ropes) that feel nice
I know what you mean though
We are all captains. Do it as you wish.
@@EmilyAndClark My dinghies don't have props because they're sailboats, haha. Snipe and Laser
Here is a tip for you, get yourself a pair of Wiss Aviation snips. They will cut dynemma way better than any scissors, and last a lot longer.
You are the second guy to suggest that. I bet they are good.
@@EmilyAndClark I regularly wear out scissors on Dyneema, even the ones with Titanium blades. Ceramic knives last longer.
That is not a Mobius Brummell splice, it is simply a Brummel splice. You don’t Whip two lines together, you Seize them; in this case, it is to prevent the splice unreeving in slow, light airs which can cause gentle, creeping tugs, loosening the splice or causing it to gradually pull out. The taper is where the strength in the splice is. Vernon
Is this really the Mobius version? I thought that was when you did not have access to both ends of the rope and had to loop one hole in on itself to feed the other loop through which untwisted the first hole....
We found different definitions.
Most importantly this is the type you can splice around something. That is not shown as much and I think more useful.
We likely got the name wrong
@@EmilyAndClark -- Just found this video from the rope company that shows both methods and they call the one that I mention above the Mobius version...
ua-cam.com/video/WOBs_aCxZ0c/v-deo.html
I haven't tried splicing the actual Mobius version around something yet, but a shackle would not be a problem since you could just unscrew the shaft of the shackle... :)
Maybe splicing into the end of a link of chain would be a better example... I'm going to have to think about it a bit so see if there is a way around it... Probably not... Probably just need to use a lock stitch instead of a Brummel lock... :)
I have a question, but first I really appreciate your video, it is really well explained, and I've come back to it many times!
My question is what do I do if I have a core, but it's not a braided core. I've been looking all over UA-cam, and I'm just struggling to know what to do with my core. There's plenty of really good tutorials on double braided ropes, but I have a cheap polypropylene rope, and it has a core, but it's just a filler. Can someone please point me in the direction of an answer? I have done a decent amount of splicing, with other ropes and I know I could just pull out the core, and do it like this video, but taking out the core makes the eye thin and weaker. So I'd rather not do that.
The other thing I've thought of is just leaving the core in and ignoring it, but then I couldn't have my buried end in the middle of the working end as the core is in the way, and the Chinese finger trap principal would be less effective.
Those are the only easy thing I've come up with...
Hi Michaela,
This is Clark. We are so happy to hear you enjoyed Emily's video. Thanks for responding.
I believe I know the line you are talking about. If it's what I think it is it's not really worth splicing. The line I am thinking about is really weak and dies quickly in the sun. I used this kind of line as dinghy painter but though it was readily available and extremely cheap I wasn't happy. In one season it degraded to the point it parted.
That said, it heals a know well as polypropylene goes.
As for splicing,. There is a type of line called parallel core. An example of this in good quality rope would be new England ropes stay set X. This line has similar construction and might be splicible using the same method. If you can't find an online reference I suggest Brian Tosses book (link in the description). That what I used to learn this splice.
But my main suggestion for this line assuming it's the one I'm thinking of and you really want a splice is to do it with sewing and serving. Put the line through your shackle or whatever and sew it back to itself. Then do a whipping or three.
Hope that helps
@@EmilyAndClark Thank you! That is really helpful! I am aware that it is a really cheap line, and in this case I'm using the line to hold down a tent rain fly, so I was hoping that using a splice rather than a knot would help it last longer :). I have done some sailing and love trying to make my ropes and such last longer, but right now I'm land locked so splicing ropes for camping is as fancy as I get. My thinking is that on shipboard the line would get all kinds of weathering and have less chance of learning then my occasionally tenting... You are probably right about it not being worth a splice but since spicing is my joy, I'm giving it a shot 🙂
For camping I'd use paracord a lot. Cheap small light and probably stronger at it's 500 lb rating.
I made a sling for my jungle knife (machete kind of thing) from 25 feet of paracord. That way if I have the knife I have cord.
Can't splice it but sewing and whipping would look real nice.
that's great, but what if the working end also has a shackle on it? How do you have two ends that eyes with metal hardware??
Do you have that need?
But lots of options. You could just bury a lot of tail inside the working end and sew or add a long whipping to the throat. We have a video on whipping. It's me,Clark and the title is something like how a sailor cuts a rope.
Gracias, un saludo.
Fun!
Great video, very clear. But I disagree with your number 72. There is no need to bury so much line in the standing end. I use this splice regularly in much thinner kitesurfing lines using a simple copper wire as the tool, and just bury what’s left. So in your case, I’d leave 6 inches not 18. I can’t see how burying more would make it any stronger.
These new wonder ropes are so strong that they will slip before breaking. If you don't plan on loading them to their limits the bury could be shorter.
Watch the HowKNOT2 channel for a while to see how Dyneema will just come out! I use shorter buries for some purposes like when doing a soft shackle but it is the bury that gives the splice its strength, not the Brummel. For standing rigging I would certainly use the 72x (and maybe more).
Dyneema is very unforgiving of improper splicing. Though you have the most basic part down you missed the taper of the tail which is critical when looking for maximum strength from ones expensive Dyneema. In the case of SK78 1/4" you also need a more gradual taper from the Shackle to the first dive thru the rope. Even then the turn is to sharp and the dyneema will break long before its rating. Also not having the buried tail tapered further reduces the ultimate strength of the rope. In this case it actually doesn't matter since the shackle is far weaker than the rope even taking into account the improperly spliced Brummel lock. Edit: I see that she updated the video to include a taper of the tail. Dyneema off of Amazon is variable as to quality, spec, and actual strength. But again, considering the service and the shackle attached, this will most likely be strong enough anyway. To get closer to ultimate strength it would be preferred to use a tubular thimble to increase the radius for the dyneema at the critical point of the shackle and protect from ware. Good video now and covers the basics well. Glad to see people that put up videos like this iterate and improve when they, like all of us do, miss something.
What's the point in such big rope to use a tiny carabiner and an inadequately sized eye?
I'm working on replacing my standing rigging with Dyneema, and I started with Brummel splices. But now everybody is getting me that a simple long bury with locking stitches is stronger.
I personally wouldn't do standing rigging with dyneema. It is plenty strong but easy to cut. Basically if you do this your rig is at risk to anyone with a knife.
@@EmilyAndClark Everything on a boat is a trade-off. Synthetic has advantages and disadvantages compared to steel.
That said, that some vandal might decide to cut my rigging is not a disadvantage I'm concerned about.
Then yes it has advantages
And it's so amazing that it can be so strong!
I really don't know which is stronger but I would assume they are the same
The bremel part is just to keep it from moving at low loads. The burry is where the real strength lies and both approaches have that.
@@EmilyAndClark For me the main advantage is that i can replace it myself with simple splicing tools.
As for Brummel vs lock-stitch, I've been told Brummel results in a 20-30% loss in strength. That said, if you're sizing Dyneema for equivalent stretch to steel, you end up about 500% stronger than you need, so that might not really matter.
The Brummel and the locking stitch serve the same purpose - keeping the splice from coming apart when not under load. Both require the long bury for strength. I would worry about the threads in the locking stich breaking when it is loaded.
Not bad if you have the tools. I've seen a number of videos on Slicing but have yet to get the Dyneema rope to do it.
You could practice with cheap single braid poly from the hardware store.
@@EmilyAndClark Thanks for the reply.
She's quite a remarkable, smart & attractive young lady. AKA: Keeper.
I agree, Clark
Lots of confusing info on the internet. I thought the 72X was when you just made a loop and fed it back into the line without the brummel locking splice. With the brummel, the bury only needs to be 21X the diameter. That's what I do and haven't had a fail yet. So I would say 72X isn't wrong it's just overkill and a waste of line. Happy to be contradicted.
The Brummel does not add any strength to the splice. It simply keeps it from coming undone when not under load. Your splices haven't come out because you haven't loaded them to that extent.
@@tanguerochas so you're saying I should use 72X regardless?
Can you use this approach to splice on shackles, thimbles etc at both ends? Seems like you can't. Work around for this using dyneema? thanks
Think of this splice as two slices.
The bury is for the high load strength the bremmel part is for before the loads get high enough for the bury to do it's thing.
You can get a fair strong strength by just burying the tail and doing some sewing for the low load holding
👍!!!
Where can you purchase the snaps in the video?
Took me a while to figure what you were referring to.
The magic search words are "snap shackle"
Sailing zingaro had a catamaran with all standing rigging was made from dyneema on a passage from Galapagos to Hawaii the Portside pontoon started to tear off of his boat and he used dyneema and lasted all back together managed to get into Port the boat was total but it got him home
Ykes.
I knew there are reasons I chose a heavy boat.
@@EmilyAndClark yeah that was the first cat but 3 channels I watch with catamarans on them they're having the same problem with pontoon starting to tear loose from the boat from the bridge deck , I just dont think cats are designed to take the stresses of open ocean cruising
Like any light boat they can for a while but need to be retired young.
Nice to see a woman without makeup, especially a beautiful one.
5:23 does this work in metric too??
Same ratio
So, the same method for double braid? You just go through both sets instead of one?
No not at all.
It's a very different and more complicated splice.
Splicing Double-Braid is lots harder! You can splice the core of double-braid (which is hollow braid) like this, though.
🤘
It is actually called a bummer splice.
If You Wear, That... VELVET DRESS...
✍✍✍✍✍
Me thinks you have confused yourself and your audience with your references to standing/working ends. Elsewise, a good, instructive video!
Yes, sorry. You are the first to catch it.
Do you have a twin brother?
Rope is made of wire, line is made of plant or synthetic fibers…
And the company "New England Rope" doesn't exist.
@@EmilyAndClark lol! That’s a good one.
Too much talking but good technique
At 7:10 there’s a cutaway to you, and then when the closeup returns, the dyneema has been rotated and you can’t see what you refer as “this and this.” At 7:18 you call the “standing end” the “working end.” Good video but kind of lost this newbie there.
Sorry
Despite my whine festival, your thoroughness made me subscribe!
Thanks, I hope you enjoy our other videos.
She is talking much toofast
Your UA-cam viewer has a "play slower" feature.
Talk less teach more