Let me see your RCI scores below folks! Also, we’ve been working hard on making lots of content for you this year & would mean a hell of a lot to us if you could support us by getting some merch from our store or picking up a downloadable training plan - all discounted for Xmas. Check the links in the description Merry Christmas all 🎄
Since I bought the teal shirt with Dynamic Movement training plan, I hope to improve on larger moves and build confidence. I have scraped my shins, knees and arms enough, so let's hope it works! On that note, as a 6B+ (project) climber: Risk: 4. I fell plenty of times at slabs and failed at dyno's. I have had shoulder pain for some weeks from some big movements. Not my preferred style, but loads to learn here. Complexity: 6. Complex routes are always interesting to discuss with fellow climbers, but I struggle to find solutions on my own. Intensity: 8. I like boulders where I can just try hard, jump higher, hang on a crimp or even campus to the next holds.
Im really new to climbing but i trained frequently in the gym a lot before. That being said I do really enjoy the risky climbing style. At the end of my sessions when im most tired i switch to climbing complex climbs Id probably give myself R-7 C-4 I-6 Completely arbitrary scores as im not that good of a climber yet.
I've just returned to the sport after 20 years away. I am fortunate enough to have chimp arms and decent enough grip strength for a noob. Risk - not a fan 2/10, Complexity - I love trying to figure the more complex routes out but it takes me a bit as I don't have the pattern recognition element yet 5/10, Intensity - I seem to be best on overhangs with big moves - 8/10. It's all fun and thanks for the content.
I'd say, hm, R7-C6-I3. I love dynoing, I try to jump everything even if it's not meant to be jumped, but I do struggle with very coordination based stuff and especially upwards dynos where I have to step up before jumping. I do also love to try finicky stuff and finding the right way of doing things. I'm the rare breed that actually likes slab. Intensity wise, I liked it but I got a bit too heavy for powerheavy climbs so that will have to wait until I manage again to get rid of some weight. However I wouldn't like to have these markers on climbs because part of the fun is figuring out what kinda boulder you're looking at and how to go at it. Walls around here sometimes have events where they leave the grades off the boulders and you're encouraged to climb what looks fun to you instead of being put off by a grade that's higher or lower than what you would usually do. I like those events.
Whenever I have trouble with a hard move, I always try complex (technical) approaches first, then risky (low-percentage) approaches, and only if those fail will I try adding intensity (strength). I don’t prefer any particular style; it’s more about how I solve problems.
This is something I’ve been trying to work into my warm up as “doing boulders in different ways”. Having the vocabulary to name different ways is going to make actually forcing myself do them in different approaches so much easier.
Louis, you nailed it! I totally agree - having a note that shows the risk, intensity, and complexity levels would be awesome. It’d make it so much easier for people to figure out where to focus their training. Thanks for sharing such great content!
Just last night I listened to the Climbing Gold podcast episode “Risk, Intensity, Complexity” and having you guys illustrate and break down these concepts so nicely was an amazing addition to that. A true blessing; a Christmas miracle, if you will. Also, loving the new merch, especially the sexy t-shirts!
I like to say: "On this topic (slopes, dropknee, gaston, toe/heelhook etc.) the chances that I learning something new are at a very high level!" It comes with practice, but I force my thinking to see potential improvments for myself on things I'm bad at it. Stepping out of your comfy zone (just a little) is enough to slightly strechting that zone. Love the idea of these rating system. Re-thinking the boulder and break it into these terms seems logic and way less scary, when there is a new project. Great video, thanks! Greetings from Germany and everytime enough grip!
Love Louis and Sam videos. You guys have fantastic chemistry and it's great how Sam always has so much fun running with the analogies. He really brings out the best in Louis' already outstanding advice. I really appreciated the way of thinking about these categories for climbs and made a mental note to have a bit more thinking about these on my last session last night. Personally I'd score my preferences as risk about a 4, complexity 6-7, intensity 5-6. Feel I need a bit of work on all areas but enjoy puzzling out a tricky problem most, satisfaction of topping a tiring boulder second but fear blocks are my hardest to overcome.
Love the idea of climbs being tagged this way! As a relative beginner it would be super helpful in learning to read the routes better too and knowing which climbs will be good for developing which types of skills. I reckon I'm a Risk > Intensity > Complexity climber at the moment.
Awesome helpful eye opening video. You scratched the surface of how these can mix but that would be interesting to dig deeper into this topic. Dynos are what first comes to mind when talking about risky but sometimes finishing a complex slab in awkward position pushing yourself up with barely any feet to a nail sized last hold can be risky also. Slab is what comes to mind first when thinking about complex boulders, but powerful intense boulder can be very complex like stopping a big move with a dynamic toe hook in overhang. And that green one was in my opinion great example of how intense could mix with complex approach if you want or you can just power through xD
Very helpful how you're explaining your thought progress about this meta game of bouldering as you can apply it independently of the actual grade of a route...
One of my favourite thing about climbing is talking about a tough climb with my friends at my climbing gym. We usually talk about climbs in terms of difficulty (of course), and about what others have tried, what we think the "beta" is (intended sequency by the routesetters), and so on. But we rarely talk about them in these 3 ways, so I'm looking forward to chatting about climbs with them in this way.
Risk 4, Complexity 9, Intensity 6, although this is all relative as I'm still very much a novice climber. But i have a definite preference for tekkers because of my limited existing strength (although this is something I really enjoy working on). I really struggle with intensity because I'm in my 40s, have congenital joint/connective tissue problems, and possible arthritis - I've practised falling a lot but am still very nervous about anything dynamic because of my increased proneness to injury. I have been working on bringing more momentum into my 'normal' climbs to compensate for my lack of reach, but still tend to avoid anything based entirely around dynos. And sadly I'll probably still be doing so for a while because I'm nursing a knee injury. 😢 Great video, chaps - love Louis in coaching mode. And Sam is an excellent student 🙌. Merry Christmas, Catalyst fam! 🎄
What a nice concept. I‘ve never thought about boulders this way, more in hold-styles. Thinking about it, it can sometimes be hard to decide between intense and complex boulders. But I will try that out, see and learn. Have a lovely holiday season 🎄.
I totally love this! And the mindset approach to styles of climbing. Literally heard myself saying "I can't dyno, only slab" 😂 so I'll try better to change my approach to my "preferences"!❤
Complexity: 9/5 Risk: 6 Intensity: 2 I can only afford once every 1-2 weeks so as long as the climb doesn't have a too much of a physical strength/flexibility restriction, I can usually find an optimal beta. Since my grip endurance isn't as good, I tend to overcome it by using dynamic techniques whenever I can't out-technique a climb
Not sure on exact number scores, but I think my favorite climbs tend to be somewhere in the middle of all this, with elements of risk, complexity, and intensity, but not an overwhelming amount of any one. Routes that push me to focus on one particular skillset, like super-balancy slabs or intense pinch sequences, are where I tend to struggle.
We have an app in my bouldering gym in France (Arkose Toulouse) that references all boulders. On top of difficulty by color, there is a grading on 5 points scale regarding the difficulty of each boulder in the specific color (for example, there can be an easy 1/5 red or a very hard 5/5 red). Recently, they have added tags to the boulders, that represent exactly what Louis says at 9:50. For instance there can be: physical, dynamic, engagement, sensation/placement etc. It's really helpful to know, for instance, if a move is supposed to be dynamic or if it's just a complex static move.
This has helped me understand why I did my first v6 the other day, but am struggling with a v3 on a new set. I like intense climbing, and I'm quite bad at complexity, intended sequences, and route reading lmao.
Intensity: 2 Risk: 4 Complexity: 3 I started in November, so still a lot to gain in strength, endurance, technique and understanding/vision. My balance and coördination are quite alright though, which helped me complete a ‘risky’ v4 the other day. Admittedly it took me many tries, but it was super thrilling to go from “there’s no way I could do that” to actually doing it, all in the same session. Yet another example of how confidence is probably the most important factor in climbing.
This is a helpful way to frame projects that I will start implementing! I definitely prefer complexity and shy away from riskiness - showing me that I should work on building risky with grades I'm a bit more comfortable in! Also would love to see if there's a height / build correlation among people - as a SHORT climber, it's always been natural for me to to lean into complexity and ridiculous flexibility, and away from risky / dynamic moves
Yes that's me - short, no longer very strong, risk-averse. Going to start implementing more dynamic, risk-based style - based on another Louie vid (the one where he pogos one limb at a time)
This is an interesting thought. As a relatively short climber myself (average height for a woman, but I've mostly climbed with men so have often been the shortest and physically weakest of the group) I feel I've been pushed to develop a more dynamic style. Since I can't just reach the next holds or push through strong static moves, I've compensated by using momentum, balance, flexibility and coordination. I'd say for me complexity is the strongest point, risky next, and intense last. I enjoy both balancy slabs and dynamic problems on good jugs, but absolutely hate power moves on big slopers or fat pinches.
Really like this framework - as a very complexity-focused and pretty low-intensity climber, I think I've been ignoring risk as a category, so if I keep falling off a move I'll tend to assume that I'm either not strong enough to reliably stick it, or that I'm approaching it wrongly. So it'd probably do me some good to recognise that some moves are just high-risk!
Been climbing for a year or so, I definitely prefer complex climbs - mostly because I don’t have the strength and bravery to go big on intense or risky climbs yet. But I’m trying to improve all the time. Love the idea of RCI ratings alongside normal grades.
Risk 3, Complexity 4, Intensity 2 basically I have good hip and joint flexibility, and I can use some momentum well, but my functional strength is quite bad, and my lower back is arthritic. I am working on it.
This is an awesome video and I wished my gym would use some kind of this "archetype" description of the difficulty. I've been climbing for 2 months and I'm at a point where I flash most of the V3 inthe gym and I'm able of doing V4 that lean more towards the risky and complexity side whereas I struggle strongly with the intensity ones.
I'm a V4 climber and I would say I mostly enjoy complex technical climbs over risky climbs. By the way of intensity I am mostly hampered by my own strength.
Complexity 6 - Risk 5 - Intensity 2 I climb just for fun, without any bigger goals, so I really don't enjoy pushing myself too hard on any intense climbs. My favourite things to do at a climbing gym are traversing across a wide (empty) bouldering wall, or climbing easy jug routes on auto-belays as fast and dynamically as I can. Basically I treat the gym like a playground for adults, and anything that feels more like work than fun puts me off 😂 My risk taking is very much restricted to lower holds on the boulders or top roping and auto-belays though - put me on a lead rope or higher up on the bouldering wall and I'm suddenly all about static and technical climbing without any risky moves. I don't fear failure at all, as long as it doesn't mean falling for over a metre 😆
good explanations, thanks! slab i am scared of because worried i might slide down hitting some boulders. prefer overhangs. also better training for strength i think. might be wrong though.
I love this approach! I think the RCI scores miss sonething, though: willies. Especially for climbers new to the sport or to a grade, knowing the climb is meant to push you mentally (give you the willies) will help a lot.
Risk is an interesting thing to me. I'm very comfortable with specific dynamic moves, and much less with others. Jumping up a vertical or slightly overhanging wall, or jumping sideways in some big move is something I really enjoy and feel like I can do reasonably well for my level (with some exceptions). However, risky moves that are more balancy - running up a volume to catch a hold, or committing to a reachy hold with no good feet - are among the worst things, and I regularly have a few boulders in my gym where I know exactly what to do to top them, but I'm terrified of actually committing to that move. I think going by comfort I'm most comfortable with intensity, but I'm also not very strong, so sometimes I just lack the actual strength needed for high intensity climbs. Complexity is something I'm slowly getting better at, but it can frustrate me a lot.
My preferences: Risk: 5 Complexity: 9 Intensity: 5 Note: I just realized I do not have strong preferences beyond loving to try new stuff. My skillset: Risk: 2 Complexity: 3 Intensity: 3 Note: I have honestly no idea what my strengths and weaknesses are, beyond being very tall.
Think I'm pretty low on all 3 based on newness to climbing and my age! (In my 40s) I do tend to lean more towards complex I think, still building stamina for intensity. I wish there was something around how to get down for route setter thinking, I often swerve 'risk' type scenarios as I don't want to try the final move due to physical health issues, if I can't see a way down post risk move and it will be an inevitable drop once I've caught it I don't want to try... Would love to see a video around adapting climbing due to different abilities/ disabilities.. I'm trying to get into the mindset of hey if i can't make the top because there's no way down I'll choose my own top instead 😁
It's interesting because I find that I often hear people not enjoying slabby complex styles and much preferring intense climbs. As someone who is still a relative beginner to climbing and thus not quite as physically strong as I'd like to be, I actually really enjoy complex climbs, and somewhat by extension risky climbs, because they are solvable by approach and technique rather than brute strength. If I feel I can't do a climb because a move requires a lot of strength I'm put off because there's not a realistic solution in the short term, whereas if I feel the moves themselves are doable but I just need to find the correct method I find them much more enjoyable. Perhaps that will change as I get stronger!
Teacher! I have a question! Roughly said, risk seems to be about dynamic movement, complexity about being technical and intensity, felt kind of like something to avoid or to enjoy if you simply have the strength. Am I correct? I would say intensity is my weak spot, (and the one I enjoy the least) but how to train? I think I do try hard, but I only have fun in finding the technical or dynamic solutions. Is it just a matter of training?
Risk 4, complexity 7, intensity 4 I cane back to climbing a couple of years back and am loving it, but still find the risk of a bad/high fall a bit scary and it definitely holds me back. Unconsciously, I've been sorta thinking this way and have really worked at improving my fitness and strength as that is obviously whats been limiting me recently. I made a lot of gains by working on my technique (you can improve technque easier rhan you can stop being a fat middle aged bloke) These days, my fear of falls is the limiting factor, so I'm forcing ntself to do more - spending time doing risking stuff on auto belay is definitely helping me out.
Risk: 5 Complexity: 5 Intensity: 10 Imagine that for a 6' tall dude that like overhangs and power blocks and isn't very flexible. I have pretty solid technical knowledge but getting myself to execute it is very tricky either physically (flexibility/mobility) or mentally (I like controlled positions).
I love complexity. I’ve been working on risk. Intensity is my weakest side (I’m a skinny boi) Although I will mention (with the pride of a boosted ego) that i recently performed a climb that required a bathang start. And at 41 years old with just under a year of climbing under my belt I’m taking that as a huge personal win !
I think my preferences are: Intensity: 8 Risk: 6 Completely: 5 I think my weaknesses are technique based and I need to jump on boulders in complexity more often
Been climbing for close to 4 months now and I think I’d say my preferences are: Risk: 10 Complexity: 6 Intensity: 3 I have a background in parkour and MMA so dynamic climbing, fancy footwork, and coordination moves are definitely my bread and butter and I can already push V7 if it’s a more compy, jumpy style dynamic boulder I would say I have good flexibility (for a male climber) and amazing balance so that helps me with the slabby and techy stuff, I’m pretty consistent climbing V5 on slab Intensity is definitely my weakness as I’m only 125 lbs and fairly below average in terms of upper body strength as well as being new to climbing so my finger strength also isn’t really where I want it to be yet either, I’d say I’m still in the V4 range on overhang and cave boulders and I’m trying to work on it every session 💪🏽
It's nice to see climbs around V4 in a training video, and good climbers still need to try hard and think. This looks like HarrowWall. They don't sugar coat their V4s. These look hard.
Really cool concept of breaking climbs down in those categories. Pretty risk-averse myself (in climbing and in general😂), but like me some complexity, which is good as I am heavy and need more power when doing burly boulders than my lighter buddies if I can't tech my way through 😅 Cool 'fits as well, you sexy beasts! ❤😂
This is IF the route setters are competent and good at their job. Very rare that you see that where I'm from unless you go to two specific gyms of the 7 major ones in Calgary.
I often feel like an all rounder; the hardest climbs I can manage are often a healthy mix of all intensity, risk and complexity. But because of injuries I feel like the intensity aspect is lagging behind since I try compensating to protect my weaknesses.
the same. my injuries are always kinda same in terms how. my shoulder one was after a dyno with one hand catch and being not very light at that moment meant...the finger one was after trying to start a boulder outside in a nearly horizontal position with the left hand grabbing some kind of a middle sized spike with the tree fingers separated. so the middle finger took the tension, but i didn't realized that at the moment...:) so now i am carefully estimating what will be the movement in terms of tension for my fingers/shoulder etc. basically evaluating precisely the type of movement and the type/intensity of engagement.
I prefer complex and risky climbs and hate how much I struggle with intense climbs. I'm currently working on an intense climb and I'm stuck in the beginning. Hopefully by the time that route comes down I will be super swole from my attempts.
Hello, anyone a member that gets the weekly training plans? I wanna know a bit more on how they work. Are they worth it? I feel like ive stopped improving quite hard, and tbh i think im not very good. The price is much better than any other coaching options ive seen but I would like to hear from someone that uses the program to know if its good or not, thank you.
Hello, looking for tips how to get in more time on the wall in week, i do 2-3 hours sessions twice a week. i would love to double it, but my fingers cant keep up and regenerate fast enought. I tryed to push tru and climb more, even with fingers that were hurting, but i torn a pulley. I dont wanna repeat this mistake obviously xD , but in same time I wanna be able to get atlest 4 sessions in week. 1st I am thinking do proper warm up before and streatching after, i neglected this before :p. 2nd think, lower the intensity, which I would not like to do, i like to climb in these 2-3 hours until my fingers are able. Maybe someone here had same struggle and can share what halped :) Thanks
Let me see your RCI scores below folks!
Also, we’ve been working hard on making lots of content for you this year & would mean a hell of a lot to us if you could support us by getting some merch from our store or picking up a downloadable training plan - all discounted for Xmas.
Check the links in the description
Merry Christmas all 🎄
I've got about 4-5 of the cat tank tops and I love them, climb in them exclusively (although top rope, sorry!).
Have a great holiday!
Since I bought the teal shirt with Dynamic Movement training plan, I hope to improve on larger moves and build confidence. I have scraped my shins, knees and arms enough, so let's hope it works!
On that note, as a 6B+ (project) climber:
Risk: 4. I fell plenty of times at slabs and failed at dyno's. I have had shoulder pain for some weeks from some big movements. Not my preferred style, but loads to learn here.
Complexity: 6. Complex routes are always interesting to discuss with fellow climbers, but I struggle to find solutions on my own.
Intensity: 8. I like boulders where I can just try hard, jump higher, hang on a crimp or even campus to the next holds.
Im really new to climbing but i trained frequently in the gym a lot before. That being said I do really enjoy the risky climbing style. At the end of my sessions when im most tired i switch to climbing complex climbs
Id probably give myself
R-7
C-4
I-6
Completely arbitrary scores as im not that good of a climber yet.
I've just returned to the sport after 20 years away. I am fortunate enough to have chimp arms and decent enough grip strength for a noob. Risk - not a fan 2/10, Complexity - I love trying to figure the more complex routes out but it takes me a bit as I don't have the pattern recognition element yet 5/10, Intensity - I seem to be best on overhangs with big moves - 8/10. It's all fun and thanks for the content.
I'd say, hm, R7-C6-I3. I love dynoing, I try to jump everything even if it's not meant to be jumped, but I do struggle with very coordination based stuff and especially upwards dynos where I have to step up before jumping. I do also love to try finicky stuff and finding the right way of doing things. I'm the rare breed that actually likes slab. Intensity wise, I liked it but I got a bit too heavy for powerheavy climbs so that will have to wait until I manage again to get rid of some weight.
However I wouldn't like to have these markers on climbs because part of the fun is figuring out what kinda boulder you're looking at and how to go at it. Walls around here sometimes have events where they leave the grades off the boulders and you're encouraged to climb what looks fun to you instead of being put off by a grade that's higher or lower than what you would usually do. I like those events.
Whenever I have trouble with a hard move, I always try complex (technical) approaches first, then risky (low-percentage) approaches, and only if those fail will I try adding intensity (strength). I don’t prefer any particular style; it’s more about how I solve problems.
This was honestly eye opening to learn about. Been climbing several years and never considered this aspect. Keep up the great content 🤙
The Sequence test was really obvious, well done Sam
🙏🙏
This is something I’ve been trying to work into my warm up as “doing boulders in different ways”. Having the vocabulary to name different ways is going to make actually forcing myself do them in different approaches so much easier.
the fit check is crazy 🔥
Louis, you nailed it! I totally agree - having a note that shows the risk, intensity, and complexity levels would be awesome. It’d make it so much easier for people to figure out where to focus their training. Thanks for sharing such great content!
What a smart and - in hindsight - obvious way of approaching or talking about problems. Nice!
Just last night I listened to the Climbing Gold podcast episode “Risk, Intensity, Complexity” and having you guys illustrate and break down these concepts so nicely was an amazing addition to that. A true blessing; a Christmas miracle, if you will.
Also, loving the new merch, especially the sexy t-shirts!
Oh! I'm so glad you've done a whole video on this since I felt like I need more information after the shorter discussion in the membership videos.
I like to say: "On this topic (slopes, dropknee, gaston, toe/heelhook etc.) the chances that I learning something new are at a very high level!"
It comes with practice, but I force my thinking to see potential improvments for myself on things I'm bad at it. Stepping out of your comfy zone (just a little) is enough to slightly strechting that zone.
Love the idea of these rating system. Re-thinking the boulder and break it into these terms seems logic and way less scary, when there is a new project. Great video, thanks!
Greetings from Germany and everytime enough grip!
Love Louis and Sam videos. You guys have fantastic chemistry and it's great how Sam always has so much fun running with the analogies. He really brings out the best in Louis' already outstanding advice.
I really appreciated the way of thinking about these categories for climbs and made a mental note to have a bit more thinking about these on my last session last night.
Personally I'd score my preferences as risk about a 4, complexity 6-7, intensity 5-6. Feel I need a bit of work on all areas but enjoy puzzling out a tricky problem most, satisfaction of topping a tiring boulder second but fear blocks are my hardest to overcome.
Love the idea of climbs being tagged this way! As a relative beginner it would be super helpful in learning to read the routes better too and knowing which climbs will be good for developing which types of skills.
I reckon I'm a Risk > Intensity > Complexity climber at the moment.
Oh I love this. I like complex and intense climbs, I haven't practiced risky ones as much and therefore struggle with them a lot.
Understanding risk, intensity, complexity helps soooo much to understand what you need to focus on! Great stuff
Awesome helpful eye opening video. You scratched the surface of how these can mix but that would be interesting to dig deeper into this topic.
Dynos are what first comes to mind when talking about risky but sometimes finishing a complex slab in awkward position pushing yourself up with barely any feet to a nail sized last hold can be risky also.
Slab is what comes to mind first when thinking about complex boulders, but powerful intense boulder can be very complex like stopping a big move with a dynamic toe hook in overhang.
And that green one was in my opinion great example of how intense could mix with complex approach if you want or you can just power through xD
this feels like climbing therapy and i am here for it 🙌
Very helpful how you're explaining your thought progress about this meta game of bouldering as you can apply it independently of the actual grade of a route...
Hey Louis! Just flashed my first v4 ever, thanks to your great content! Keep it up! Thank you.
-Happy Holidays from Quebec, Canada
One of my favourite thing about climbing is talking about a tough climb with my friends at my climbing gym. We usually talk about climbs in terms of difficulty (of course), and about what others have tried, what we think the "beta" is (intended sequency by the routesetters), and so on. But we rarely talk about them in these 3 ways, so I'm looking forward to chatting about climbs with them in this way.
Best description I've seen about intensity, complexity, and risk in the context of climbing.
Thank you for a year of awesome videos helping to get better, making me laugh a lot and being wholesome!
Wow the sequences were so beautifully executed!! What a great training exercise.
That's actually some of the best looking merch i've seen on youtube ngl
Risk 4, Complexity 9, Intensity 6, although this is all relative as I'm still very much a novice climber. But i have a definite preference for tekkers because of my limited existing strength (although this is something I really enjoy working on).
I really struggle with intensity because I'm in my 40s, have congenital joint/connective tissue problems, and possible arthritis - I've practised falling a lot but am still very nervous about anything dynamic because of my increased proneness to injury. I have been working on bringing more momentum into my 'normal' climbs to compensate for my lack of reach, but still tend to avoid anything based entirely around dynos. And sadly I'll probably still be doing so for a while because I'm nursing a knee injury. 😢
Great video, chaps - love Louis in coaching mode. And Sam is an excellent student 🙌.
Merry Christmas, Catalyst fam! 🎄
Great concepts, clarity, and a very engaging and informative, yet concise video
What a nice concept. I‘ve never thought about boulders this way, more in hold-styles. Thinking about it, it can sometimes be hard to decide between intense and complex boulders.
But I will try that out, see and learn.
Have a lovely holiday season 🎄.
I totally love this! And the mindset approach to styles of climbing. Literally heard myself saying "I can't dyno, only slab" 😂 so I'll try better to change my approach to my "preferences"!❤
I love your channel! It has helped me improve and keep my mindset clearer when approaching new climbs. Sam being super cute is also a huge bonus! ❤
Wow! Thanks a lot for this episode. The idea about risk/complex/intense label on the boulder is insane
Complexity: 9/5
Risk: 6
Intensity: 2
I can only afford once every 1-2 weeks so as long as the climb doesn't have a too much of a physical strength/flexibility restriction, I can usually find an optimal beta. Since my grip endurance isn't as good, I tend to overcome it by using dynamic techniques whenever I can't out-technique a climb
Louis and Hannah Morris uploaded today. Merry/Happy Christmas to all!
Not sure on exact number scores, but I think my favorite climbs tend to be somewhere in the middle of all this, with elements of risk, complexity, and intensity, but not an overwhelming amount of any one. Routes that push me to focus on one particular skillset, like super-balancy slabs or intense pinch sequences, are where I tend to struggle.
We have an app in my bouldering gym in France (Arkose Toulouse) that references all boulders. On top of difficulty by color, there is a grading on 5 points scale regarding the difficulty of each boulder in the specific color (for example, there can be an easy 1/5 red or a very hard 5/5 red).
Recently, they have added tags to the boulders, that represent exactly what Louis says at 9:50. For instance there can be: physical, dynamic, engagement, sensation/placement etc. It's really helpful to know, for instance, if a move is supposed to be dynamic or if it's just a complex static move.
This has helped me understand why I did my first v6 the other day, but am struggling with a v3 on a new set. I like intense climbing, and I'm quite bad at complexity, intended sequences, and route reading lmao.
Sam's biceps are looking SUCCULENT
😂 that’s a new one for me but thanks!
bonk
If it rains they swell up
Straight to jail
Intensity: 2
Risk: 4
Complexity: 3
I started in November, so still a lot to gain in strength, endurance, technique and understanding/vision. My balance and coördination are quite alright though, which helped me complete a ‘risky’ v4 the other day. Admittedly it took me many tries, but it was super thrilling to go from “there’s no way I could do that” to actually doing it, all in the same session. Yet another example of how confidence is probably the most important factor in climbing.
This is a helpful way to frame projects that I will start implementing! I definitely prefer complexity and shy away from riskiness - showing me that I should work on building risky with grades I'm a bit more comfortable in! Also would love to see if there's a height / build correlation among people - as a SHORT climber, it's always been natural for me to to lean into complexity and ridiculous flexibility, and away from risky / dynamic moves
That's so true! I'm tall and lacking the complexity aspect as I can often reach further (which doesn't always help obviously 😂)
Yes that's me - short, no longer very strong, risk-averse. Going to start implementing more dynamic, risk-based style - based on another Louie vid (the one where he pogos one limb at a time)
This is an interesting thought. As a relatively short climber myself (average height for a woman, but I've mostly climbed with men so have often been the shortest and physically weakest of the group) I feel I've been pushed to develop a more dynamic style. Since I can't just reach the next holds or push through strong static moves, I've compensated by using momentum, balance, flexibility and coordination. I'd say for me complexity is the strongest point, risky next, and intense last. I enjoy both balancy slabs and dynamic problems on good jugs, but absolutely hate power moves on big slopers or fat pinches.
Really like this framework - as a very complexity-focused and pretty low-intensity climber, I think I've been ignoring risk as a category, so if I keep falling off a move I'll tend to assume that I'm either not strong enough to reliably stick it, or that I'm approaching it wrongly. So it'd probably do me some good to recognise that some moves are just high-risk!
What a great great video! Thanks soo much ❤🎉
Been climbing for a year or so, I definitely prefer complex climbs - mostly because I don’t have the strength and bravery to go big on intense or risky climbs yet. But I’m trying to improve all the time. Love the idea of RCI ratings alongside normal grades.
Risk 3, Complexity 4, Intensity 2
basically I have good hip and joint flexibility, and I can use some momentum well, but my functional strength is quite bad, and my lower back is arthritic. I am working on it.
The Komplex lap was Beautiful
This is an awesome video and I wished my gym would use some kind of this "archetype" description of the difficulty. I've been climbing for 2 months and I'm at a point where I flash most of the V3 inthe gym and I'm able of doing V4 that lean more towards the risky and complexity side whereas I struggle strongly with the intensity ones.
Sam is a delight
I'm a V4 climber and I would say I mostly enjoy complex technical climbs over risky climbs. By the way of intensity I am mostly hampered by my own strength.
Is there a chance you could do a video categorizing all different types of dynos? Would be very helpful and cool
Complexity 6 - Risk 5 - Intensity 2
I climb just for fun, without any bigger goals, so I really don't enjoy pushing myself too hard on any intense climbs. My favourite things to do at a climbing gym are traversing across a wide (empty) bouldering wall, or climbing easy jug routes on auto-belays as fast and dynamically as I can. Basically I treat the gym like a playground for adults, and anything that feels more like work than fun puts me off 😂 My risk taking is very much restricted to lower holds on the boulders or top roping and auto-belays though - put me on a lead rope or higher up on the bouldering wall and I'm suddenly all about static and technical climbing without any risky moves. I don't fear failure at all, as long as it doesn't mean falling for over a metre 😆
I like how the complexity style is always described as fancy. I’ll call it the fancy style for now on
good explanations, thanks! slab i am scared of because worried i might slide down hitting some boulders. prefer overhangs. also better training for strength i think. might be wrong though.
I will always prefer Adam Ondras style of climbing, but the way Janja floats up stuff like the clip in the beginning is so impressive.
I love this approach! I think the RCI scores miss sonething, though: willies. Especially for climbers new to the sport or to a grade, knowing the climb is meant to push you mentally (give you the willies) will help a lot.
Risk is an interesting thing to me. I'm very comfortable with specific dynamic moves, and much less with others. Jumping up a vertical or slightly overhanging wall, or jumping sideways in some big move is something I really enjoy and feel like I can do reasonably well for my level (with some exceptions). However, risky moves that are more balancy - running up a volume to catch a hold, or committing to a reachy hold with no good feet - are among the worst things, and I regularly have a few boulders in my gym where I know exactly what to do to top them, but I'm terrified of actually committing to that move.
I think going by comfort I'm most comfortable with intensity, but I'm also not very strong, so sometimes I just lack the actual strength needed for high intensity climbs. Complexity is something I'm slowly getting better at, but it can frustrate me a lot.
I don't know about Janja prefering momentum over physical strength. I see her breaking sequences with sheer power quite a lot.
My preferences:
Risk: 5
Complexity: 9
Intensity: 5
Note: I just realized I do not have strong preferences beyond loving to try new stuff.
My skillset:
Risk: 2
Complexity: 3
Intensity: 3
Note: I have honestly no idea what my strengths and weaknesses are, beyond being very tall.
mood
Think I'm pretty low on all 3 based on newness to climbing and my age! (In my 40s) I do tend to lean more towards complex I think, still building stamina for intensity. I wish there was something around how to get down for route setter thinking, I often swerve 'risk' type scenarios as I don't want to try the final move due to physical health issues, if I can't see a way down post risk move and it will be an inevitable drop once I've caught it I don't want to try... Would love to see a video around adapting climbing due to different abilities/ disabilities.. I'm trying to get into the mindset of hey if i can't make the top because there's no way down I'll choose my own top instead 😁
Interesting, so that's how setters here think.
This explains a lot. Those risky/complex boulders would be graded much lower in Japan I guess.
It's interesting because I find that I often hear people not enjoying slabby complex styles and much preferring intense climbs. As someone who is still a relative beginner to climbing and thus not quite as physically strong as I'd like to be, I actually really enjoy complex climbs, and somewhat by extension risky climbs, because they are solvable by approach and technique rather than brute strength. If I feel I can't do a climb because a move requires a lot of strength I'm put off because there's not a realistic solution in the short term, whereas if I feel the moves themselves are doable but I just need to find the correct method I find them much more enjoyable. Perhaps that will change as I get stronger!
Teacher! I have a question! Roughly said, risk seems to be about dynamic movement, complexity about being technical and intensity, felt kind of like something to avoid or to enjoy if you simply have the strength. Am I correct? I would say intensity is my weak spot, (and the one I enjoy the least) but how to train? I think I do try hard, but I only have fun in finding the technical or dynamic solutions. Is it just a matter of training?
Risk 4, complexity 7, intensity 4
I cane back to climbing a couple of years back and am loving it, but still find the risk of a bad/high fall a bit scary and it definitely holds me back.
Unconsciously, I've been sorta thinking this way and have really worked at improving my fitness and strength as that is obviously whats been limiting me recently. I made a lot of gains by working on my technique (you can improve technque easier rhan you can stop being a fat middle aged bloke)
These days, my fear of falls is the limiting factor, so I'm forcing ntself to do more - spending time doing risking stuff on auto belay is definitely helping me out.
Risk: 5
Complexity: 5
Intensity: 10
Imagine that for a 6' tall dude that like overhangs and power blocks and isn't very flexible. I have pretty solid technical knowledge but getting myself to execute it is very tricky either physically (flexibility/mobility) or mentally (I like controlled positions).
I love complexity.
I’ve been working on risk.
Intensity is my weakest side (I’m a skinny boi)
Although I will mention (with the pride of a boosted ego) that i recently performed a climb that required a bathang start. And at 41 years old with just under a year of climbing under my belt I’m taking that as a huge personal win !
rightfully so! that's seriously impressive my guy, keep it up!
Damn, people you coach could not have picked a better person.
I think my preferences are:
Intensity: 8
Risk: 6
Completely: 5
I think my weaknesses are technique based and I need to jump on boulders in complexity more often
The pinky match is so unique
Been climbing for close to 4 months now and I think I’d say my preferences are:
Risk: 10
Complexity: 6
Intensity: 3
I have a background in parkour and MMA so dynamic climbing, fancy footwork, and coordination moves are definitely my bread and butter and I can already push V7 if it’s a more compy, jumpy style dynamic boulder
I would say I have good flexibility (for a male climber) and amazing balance so that helps me with the slabby and techy stuff, I’m pretty consistent climbing V5 on slab
Intensity is definitely my weakness as I’m only 125 lbs and fairly below average in terms of upper body strength as well as being new to climbing so my finger strength also isn’t really where I want it to be yet either, I’d say I’m still in the V4 range on overhang and cave boulders and I’m trying to work on it every session 💪🏽
post a video of you climbing a v7. i think you’re talking bollocks.
Complexity - 8, Risk - 6, Intensity - 3 - As I get older, I find good feet is the thing I need more than anything.
It's nice to see climbs around V4 in a training video, and good climbers still need to try hard and think. This looks like HarrowWall. They don't sugar coat their V4s. These look hard.
Sending love from Oregon 💚🌲
💚💚
Really cool concept of breaking climbs down in those categories.
Pretty risk-averse myself (in climbing and in general😂), but like me some complexity, which is good as I am heavy and need more power when doing burly boulders than my lighter buddies if I can't tech my way through 😅
Cool 'fits as well, you sexy beasts! ❤😂
This is IF the route setters are competent and good at their job. Very rare that you see that where I'm from unless you go to two specific gyms of the 7 major ones in Calgary.
Do you have a size guide for the merch??? Chest size? Keen to purchase. Thanks.
There should be a size chat on our website - they are not a baggy fit and should be pretty on-size!
I often feel like an all rounder; the hardest climbs I can manage are often a healthy mix of all intensity, risk and complexity. But because of injuries I feel like the intensity aspect is lagging behind since I try compensating to protect my weaknesses.
the same. my injuries are always kinda same in terms how. my shoulder one was after a dyno with one hand catch and being not very light at that moment meant...the finger one was after trying to start a boulder outside in a nearly horizontal position with the left hand grabbing some kind of a middle sized spike with the tree fingers separated. so the middle finger took the tension, but i didn't realized that at the moment...:) so now i am carefully estimating what will be the movement in terms of tension for my fingers/shoulder etc. basically evaluating precisely the type of movement and the type/intensity of engagement.
Hi ! Is the translation to french from AI ? It translated "route setter" to "root setter" (poseur de racines). Vers funny tho 😂
There is always endless things to learn from u guys...truly amazing. Can't wait to climb again already haha
Talking about complexity. That girl in the background used instant transmission. 10:45
😂😂
1:50 they have to take risk in order to complete the route most of the times tho, not to reduce intensity.
Love your videos!!!
i like to think im an all rounder but its still early days i think since ive been climbing 7 months but i have 0 fear of falling and always try hard
so id say
4
4
4
I prefer complex and risky climbs and hate how much I struggle with intense climbs. I'm currently working on an intense climb and I'm stuck in the beginning. Hopefully by the time that route comes down I will be super swole from my attempts.
always love your videos :) I'd say i'm a Risk: 2 lol, Intensity: 8, Complexity: 5.5
Hello, anyone a member that gets the weekly training plans? I wanna know a bit more on how they work. Are they worth it? I feel like ive stopped improving quite hard, and tbh i think im not very good. The price is much better than any other coaching options ive seen but I would like to hear from someone that uses the program to know if its good or not, thank you.
I do miss them shorts of yours Louis…
Louis is so funny
Could maybe give credit / a brief mention to Tonde Katiyo and Jacky Godoffe who created the RIC scale.
I’ve just learned that I climb like a gorilla who likes taking risks😂
I have to learn some techniques 😁
Hello, looking for tips how to get in more time on the wall in week, i do 2-3 hours sessions twice a week. i would love to double it, but my fingers cant keep up and regenerate fast enought. I tryed to push tru and climb more, even with fingers that were hurting, but i torn a pulley. I dont wanna repeat this mistake obviously xD , but in same time I wanna be able to get atlest 4 sessions in week. 1st I am thinking do proper warm up before and streatching after, i neglected this before :p. 2nd think, lower the intensity, which I would not like to do, i like to climb in these 2-3 hours until my fingers are able. Maybe someone here had same struggle and can share what halped :) Thanks
Where are the shorts?!
Ah those are just my shorts 😅 they are Arc’teryx
fit check
sam gettinig ripped
interesting that complexity meant feet in the last test
louis should start doing asmr wth 😭😭
He has a future in voice acting no doubt, our next video only proves this 🙄
1:00 what shoes are those?
Ondra comps!
@@CatalystClimbing just found them, they're Mandalas, not comps btw
I love how British people say "Loads" instead of "A lot".
Need some more merch with the fall more try harder slogan
Eyes peeled for future drops 👀
@CatalystClimbing i think it's a cool slogan and philosophy. So I look forward to the new drops.
I agree! Nice one 😁
Intensity 9
Complexity 6
Risk 2
RCI is 572
❤
Risk 8
Complexity 8
Intensity 5
R:2, C:5, I:8
Risk: 7
Complexity: 4
Intensity: 5