I am a pest control technician and I see termite damage behind spray foam and the foam boards with a metal side. We can't inspect behind that stuff so when damage is found it's often pretty bad. I see it used in crawl spaces and foam often hides termites and other stuff.
@Sureshots. A pest control company in Newport News VA. One of the top 100 in the country, but we just have one shop with a bunch of people. I'm not going to blast the name here. We have a bunch of customers that have been using the company since it started in the 70s.
Another negative about closed cell Spray Foam on the underside of the roof is that it will seal the area to the point that you would never know there was a leak in the roof until it was rotted away and far more damage created as a result. In speaking with contractors for a project I have, They have warned against this, and some will not spray the underside of roof for this very reason.
@@theodorehyatt1782 I think those premade sheds are built on the cheap, which is why they use OSB instead of real plywood. If they used 8 foot studs on the sidewalls, you could run ceiling joists and insulate / vent like a regular house, however thick you want.
As a roofer I wouldn't use spray foam on the roofs underside and I would definitely recommend some kind of vent system unless you want to replace your roof every 10 years . I hear people say I have a metal roof so I don't have to worry about ventilation but even the sheeting will get cooked and dry rotted .
Oh my! Learn from my mistake. You will have a humid dripping jungle without any ventilation. Please put on a second roof with international building codes of .75-1 in for air draft. Costly but saved my home and way more energy efficient. Used rockwool on ceiling and walls and love it. Reflectix under neath between joists. East Texan here.
@@Wisdomseeker_777 I used 4 in rock wool in the walls between studs, 6 inch rock wool in ceiling (above collar ties-gambrel roof) and stapled reflective UNDERNEATH the building between the joists. I just cut strips of reflectix out with 1 inch to fold down around joist and stapled it. You don't want an air gap between reflectix and the wood if possible. It holds 50F variance in temp well and is very well insulated. 14x30 building converted to tiny home. Be sure to put electric fan/vent in bathroom to reduce humidity. Due to no ventilation, I had roofers "build" a vented space above roof (remove metal first) and put regular roof on with ridge vent and soffits. It saved the cabin.
My experience with spray foam ceiling insulation that was professionally applied in a climate controlled garage/shop. The cons have been- #1 If there is a leak, good luck finding the original leak in the roof because it might not be anywhere near where it escapes through the foam which likely will come out where there's a light fixture or other electrical opening (once you remove the steel roofing, you'll find the rotted wood and when you replace it all, pray you sealed the leak). #2 It's a pain if you need to change any wiring (more an issue with it in walls unless you have a leak in roof). #3 Rodents love to tunnel through it and they can do so very quietly until damage is done. #4 It does burn nicely and that makes me wonder about toxins (we tested scraps left behind for flammability). The pros have been- #1- Insulation value and lack of drafts (until mice got in) were dramatically better than fiberglass. #2 -Outside noise blocking is incredible (based on family member's home on a busy corner in city) in combination with excellent windows. #3- It could be applied DIY or professionally- My family member started DIY, but found it was cheaper to hire it done and we found the same with our shop. Why pay more to purchase the materials and have to do the work plus clean up the mess you'll likely make? The problem here would be a smaller project might not be enough for the pros to really want to mess with unless they happen to have a larger project nearby to piggyback off of. So, in the end would we do it again? If we lived in town it would be a definite yes for the insulation and sound barrier alone. On the farm where we are, probably at least for the ceilings. If new construction I'd wait to make damn sure there were no roof leaks before adding the foam. Our leak only happened in extremely heavy rain with high NW winds, but we get that a lot. Once water gets in, it's trapped by the foam and will rot any wood sitting in it.
Never spray foam on the underside of roof sheeting. I have used both closed cell foam and fiberglass and never had problems with moisture of pests. A proper vapor barrier with fiberglas will prevent moisture from entering. Kraft faced insulation is not a good vapor barrier.I have used closed cell on my last two homes in the walls, one in 1985. Our off-road cabin has all fiberglass and I haven’t had any moisture problems in 24 years.. I always use fiberglass in the ceiling with a good vapor barrier and adequate attic ventilation. We don’t have termites or cockroaches here.
Some states do not allow any living space to have particle Board because the Glue used to make that is toxic and will kill you before the fire or the smoke. Why anyone would use press board I will never understand when it gets wet it is no good. You can easily buy used lumber real cheap that would be a lot safer .I would also point out it is a lot cheaper to build your own shed then it is to buy one. Note a trick that I have used that works every time is thin sheet metal . Build your base/Flooring. then add sheet metal on the bottom leaving no gaps over lap them and leave enough sticking out of all four sides. Then build the frame for the walls Lay the sheet metal on the walls again no gaps. do the same for the roof. Then Insulate the floors walls and ceiling. You will not have any critters in the shed also between the wall studs lay about 2 cups of Cedar saw dust. The little critters hate Cedar. That is also why most people have a Cedar hope chest. Make sure you know the law for the state you live in and then the County because each county is different in their rules and laws but if a person really wants to cause some hate they can get the State to apply their rules and law. I have built houses as well as sheds and Garages . I have been working with wood most of my life. I know there are people out there that can not build a thing out of wood and some can't even build a dog house or bird house. But Most of the people do have friends that do have skills. If they don't then make new friends lmao.
Sounds like a plan. Not sure about the impact on human health though. A metal roof and floor can feel eerie over time. Check out Building Biology, mainly the EMF aspects.
I live more in the northern midwast. I retired from building homes, so not a DYI. I built a 12×18 with 9 foot ceilings. R15 fiberglass for the walls, but the 2x4 roof was a bit of a compromise. R22 is the standard here. The 2x4 structure I had to just go with R15, vent shoots, sofit and full length vent cap. But I used high grade foil faced sheeting on the walls and water barrier sheeting on the roof with added roof rap and 25 shingles. Good vinyl siding. Non of it was cheep, but so far it all is working very well hot or cold. Buying a shed leaves fewer options, but a ready made advantage. Great for the south, but in the north, if you can build it like I did, you can overcome some of the down side. Laber was not a problem for me.
spray foam insulation can make it almost impossible to get a mortgage in some areas due to building inspector inability to see structures under the foam
@@AlexanderTuttle-h3d Problem is if you have spray foam insulation installed,and 5-10yrs later when you retire you try to sell your house the appraiser will demand a current inspection, depending on the State you live, they may be 6 months or 1yr prior to sale date. I've heard were people did get loans, your might go through a dozen loan officers before one will approve it, but you can forget a VA loan, which don't make sense because the Federal Gov't awards grants for spray foam insulation. It's usually the local banks that will give you the hardest time.
@@jimc3708 5 to 10 years ? I'm living in this box until I build the next one At that time I don't care about the old on (sale or dismantle) But keeping the same land. so there no city appraiser. my 12x28 box live -in ready was $15K
Thanks for that info. My shed looks the same as your barn shed. I want to go with rock wool liking the fire-resistant quality. I didn't want to do it before looking into that moisture problem. I don't like spray foam insulation on any of my buildings!
Don't forget structural foam. It's closed cell and goes by weight. It's mainly used in the marine industry. It can be structural and because it's closed cell it's totally waterproof but it will not let moisture pass through it. So in building like your shed you'll have to use some type of moisture remover and add a air to air heat exchange to introduce fresh air.
We have a well built "cabin" and it didn't come with any insulation / drywall. I had people put up the regular kind of insulation and at the first snowfall we found there was a ton of moisture that the insulation "soaked up". I wasn't told I needed to use the spray foam insulation so I just had the fiberglass put up there. After reading some of your comments, my question is - if I keep the fiberglass insulation up there I know I will have to put some type of vents at the bottom of the roof. But will I need to put plastic or foam insulation trays put in before the insulation and then the drywall ? Or do I need to put something else up there to take up the space ? I person came out that we bought the cabin from and he said that one way of doing it if we didn't want to do spray foam is to put venting holes between each roof board and to put this Styrofoam piece that looked like it had aluminum foil on the sides along with the fiberglass insulation. I guess this would have filled in the room between the roof and insulation ? Any advice would be appreciated. Sorry for the long explanation.
I used rock wool in mine in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. I’m in south Alabama. It’s so quiet with the rock wool when I put it in and before it was covered by Sheetrock you couldn’t hear a person talking to you 30 feet away. I’m not on a busy road but it still cuts sound down immensely.
I have a large barn house in ohio I spray foamed the entire thing closed cell. The other day it was -2 and it was 76 in my house section 2800sq ft. I have a 24 or 26 ft open ceiling to the roof. Looks like cracker barrel on the inside. I have a good trane heat system on propane but if I feed my Wood stove it never turns on.
@@floridagunrat1625 right, I would stick with old school technology. Also, that tyvek crap seems suss to me as well. Just use tarpaper. Even if you don't have a direct leak there's always going to be humidity.
One way I seen done, is having 2x6 roof trusses and adding a strip of wood to either side of the trusses and against the sheathing. Then 3/4” foam boards fastened to the strips, that leave a gap between the foam and roof sheathing. Then the rest of the cell is filled with closed cell spray foam. Oh, the soffit and ridge are both vented, to allow air to enter the eaves snd escape the ridge. That substantially keeps the roof cool and lowers the chance of the sun’s heat entering the living space. If moisture from fog, or heavy humidity, enters the area between the sheathing and foam board, it’ll dry out quickly, once the dry air convection starts again.
I had styrofoam blocks cut into pieces that are 92x14.5x3. They seem to work great. I've done a large RV like this. And I'm currently planning out my tiny house the same way. I have an electric hot wire foam cutter here to do any trimming. What's the downside of precut styrofoam blocks?
I have done this once. The insulation factor was great, but the install labor was tremendous. Every wall cavity is a little different. Then you have to cut around all of the outlets, wiring, plumbing, fire blocking, etc. Gaps were filled with cans of spray foam. It was a slow process.
@floridagunrat1625 With a tiny house it's not too bad. Not too much cutting for electrical and such. And if you pay a foam company to cut them to exactly 14.5", you can use them as guides for your studs (on 16" centers) and they'll fit perfectly. A hot wire cutter helps a lot. Oh, and you don't need a vapor barrier with foam. I use one anyway though. I do use cans of closed cell spray foam to fill any gaps too. And also to lock in any pieces that could possibly move over time. I guess I'm just wondering what the pros think of fire and health safety. So far I've mostly used the commercial grade insulation foam with the fiberglass paper on both sides. My next one is going to be plain white styrofoam unless I find a reason to not use it.
@@mikey92362 if I build a tiny house it will be cellulose blown it like my house built 20 years ago. best stuff there is. also, I will be running my electric and plumbing in conduit outside the walls where its easy to get to.
That depends on the type of foam used. All foam will burn/melt when exposed to a flame. Some types will burn quite violently, but others will not support combustion on their own.
Depends on the type. I tested this back in 2017 when we used it. I couldn't get it to burn unless I continuously kept gasoline on it. Otherwise it would simply go out. A torch running on it wouldn't set it on fire either. It would char, turn black, smoke a little and that was about it. I would have thought it would have started burning on it's own but when you removed the flame it stopped smoking. It never actually produced a flame on it's own. Not like a piece of lumber, you hold a torch on it, it will catch fire remain burning when you remove the torch. I have no doubt, some spray foam burns but ours did not.
remember the first few inches of insulation have the greatest effect,I always notice on a shed near my home on a frosty morning,the roof space with r13 will almost always have frost on it while the uninsulated area sometimes is clear,its diminishing returns with thicker and thicker insulation.
Before insulating seal and spray your wood inside with a mold killer and bug deterent then insulate with what's best if I build again I'd even go as far as spraying a water sealer to prevent leaks
I am not gonna doubt what you say in this video, but the best insulation and protection from mold is cobb (a mud and straw mixture). Only thing about it is that you cannot or should not use sheetrock over it (cement, clay, slate, or wood work best with it). And you cannot use cob for the inner roof insulation (for obvious reasons). But using cobb for wall insulation will save lots of money on both heating AND cooling, and best of all- it is free or very cheap to make
If you are converting a shed it is likely you are in an area that does not perscribe to the building code. Regardless, it is a good idea to follow the code in case it is adopted by your county in the future. If that happens your structure will have more value. The minimum roof live load is 20 psf and is higher if you are in a snow region. The shed roof has joints at the angle points that would not calculate for that load. The reason for a minimum live load to support a fire fighter or weight of a human for roof maintenance. For the shed shown I would at least add 3/4" plywood glued and screwed gussets at the mid height angle point and at the ridge. That would help support more weight and reduce risking damage from getting on the roof and added dead load from insulation and sheet rock. Adding a metal clip to the roof joists and wall top plate is another good idea so they do not creep out with the added weight and thermal contraction and expansion forces of the roofing.
Thankfully, my unrestricted land is grandfathered in. I made 110% sure before I purchased the land. It can never be rezoned. I'm sure the gov has a dirty playbook they can use, but I have it all in writing. The property where I currently live however has a lot of restrictions. Permit needed for any building over 200 sf. Nothing built within 25 feet of the property lines, etc.
With fiberglass insulation it is very important to follow the instructions if you have 2 by 6 outer walls use insulation for 2 by 6 if you have 2 by 4 used insulation for 2 by 4 compressing the insulation defeats the whole purpose of putting it in don't leave any gaps at the top or bottom the edges should overlap each other it should be stapled and then taped plastic should not be used over the insulation seal up any holes in the outside wall because insulation does not stop the movement of air it only stops the transfer of cold to hot or hot to cold do not cram it in around the doors or Windows it will do no good that's what window and door spray foam is for do not seal up your house as tight as a whiskey barrel your house has to breathe
Never use any spray foam. It never stops off gassing toxic gasses. Remember those manufactured homes that has this in it, after only a short time inside those, you would get a low grade head ache. You get Itchy eyes, body with fibre glass batt insulation.
I built my home I still live in, in southern Arizona in 2010. If there is any way water can get in, it will eventually and mold can happen. Also can have issues with trapped moisture if if have poor ventilation. Moisture, just from showers and breathing can condensate on the widows when it is really cold outside. We had an issue with that until dealt with with better ventilation. So area you live is irreverent.
QUESTION, hi , good video and thank you. I have always wondered about a poor mans way to insulate a place, How about free cardboard boxes, like boxes that say bicycles come in at a Walmart , for example ? Double the layer, and use a small nail or screw with a washer on it .
Great advice I have a shed that does not have ridge vents or any type of venting other than 3 windows. So are you saying if I use Closed Cell spray foam and then cover it with drywall I will not have a problem with mould? I really do not want to spend extra money to hire a contractor to add ridge vents and baffles all that. I do plan to add electrical in it and use a fan to circulate the air in summers. I am wondering too is that if the guy comes to spray foam the ceiling wouldn't it make sense to just do the walls too? MY shed is only 10x12.
Not sure, but what I remember from a show like that I saw, was the blame being placed on an improper mix ratio of the A & B parts which left things incompletely reactive and thus outgassing. I’m partial to dense packed cellulose, and rock wool, myself.
@@SyntheticStuntMan I'm not disagreeing, I just have limited knowledge and conflicting sources. I know PVC gasses off long term. I wasn't sure about polyurethane.
Years ago I was told that foam insulation had a "GAS" Off that was hazardous to humans. Maybe the foam used now is different from what was used years ago.
You know maybe the trick would be to just drop that ceiling a little bit put yourself a space like a little attic then you could do some side Vents and some roof Vents and you'd be all set that roof looks plenty tall
@@jdel2315 do research and find a foam product that is non-toxic if such a thing exists. better yet, use cellulose blown in insulation like we did. Great stuff, great insulation properties and non-toxic. mice and bugs hate it (including termites). If I build again or ever finish out a building like this to live in, it will be celluose again.
@ as far as I know all forms of foam offgas the chemicals they are made of. blown in cellulose is the safest thing you can use and it has great insulating properties.
Get yourself about 15 gallons of wind seed oil using a bug sprayer and then hosing down the inside of your dwelling will keep mold away plus it will chase out would eating insects I know it's not cheap to take and get but if you buy them both it ain't too bad
What about 3 inch foam panels on rafters? And, it's rockwool, not rock wall! On my barn roof shed, with 8 foot walls, I put joist to form ceiling and trap door to access attic, and 1 inch foam panels against underside of roof and 3 inch foam panels between ceiling joist. I put soffit vents (2 on each side). Used same 3 inch foam panels between floor joist. This was 6 years ago. Use very little heat or a/c.. R 19 fiberglass faced in walls.
Putting a metal roof directly on sheeting is a mistake. The sheeting needs to breathe and needs keep cool. Strapping on the sheeting then installing the steel to the strapping is the preferred way to install it. Installing spray foam makes the situation worse. I’d create soffits, use rigid foam sheets on the inside of the trusses, tape the joints, then drywall over the foam boards
Airflow is important for the life of your roof. The one we are building has soffit vents, and a rige cap vent will be going with a blow-in insolation. ps Make sure you do not cover the soffit vents use vent passenger made of Styrofoam
That ridge line shouldn't be sealed, cause that is a stand ventilation, unless someone purposely sealed it, the metal roof has rides in it and the metal roof ridge cap is the ventilation point, and if it has Housewrap, that is breathable so it can still vent but keep out moisture. So if you seal it with spray foam your gonna loose the ventilation.
Critter proof your shed, cabin, or home with reflectix across the floor joists and up the walls about two feet, unless it’s a mobile home then go up all the way.
@@UrbanToAcresHi! I'm thinking about putting reflexive in my garage from the bottom frame to the top of frame then drywall over that to have my garage fully insulated. No foam spray, no batting, just the radiant barrier. I live in Phoenix, Arizona. Have you any experience or knowledge of this is a good idea? Why or why not please.
@@jonesy5722 Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience using what you are referring to, nor the climate area. I'm sorry. Hopefully someone will see this on this channel and be able to help you. Best wishes!
What do you think about using 2-3 inches of closed cell spray foam on my ceiling and adding Rockwool under the closed cell spray foam on my ceiling for extra/added insulation???
That is a good question. I have not heard of this method yet, so I wouldn't be able to answer that. I'm sorry. Hopefully someone on this channel will see this comment and be able to provide you with some advice.
The formaldehyde fumes from treated chipboard in closed in small space will make you sick, long term illness too. Better off building something similar with your own lumber and treated only on the exterior
Near Houston, I bought a wood frame with metal exterior 12x10 shed. It's a man cave so I don't live in it unless I've been banished by the wife. LOL I insulated it with two layers of R-10 Foam insulation board with Insulation bubble radiant barrier giving me ~R22 walls and Ceiling. On the Ceiling I cut it to fit snugly and pounded it between the frame with a softblow hammer and then stapled string across just to make sure it stays in place and stapled the radiant barrier over it to the beams. Granted the Silver bubble radiant barrier may not as astetically pleasing for a living area but for a work space it keeps the shed light and bright. I also use the shed to start seedlings in the winter and to stash my Tropicals in during hard freezes. I have a ducted AC/Heater Heat pump in there too. I stayed away from Rock Wool and fiberglass that it could trap moisture and if disturbed the fibers can get airborne and inhaled. During installation I'd use a resparatior but not during daily normal use so that was a concern. If I ever need to inspect behind it the insulation can be easily pulled out.
Open face fiber glass is moisture permeable and will let TONS of water vapor through. Rock wool is also vapor permeable, the problem comes when ppl put non vapor permeable barriers over them on the inside especially in the Southern US were humidity is high in the summer months. The reason comes down to the condensing surfaces are on the wrong side of the wall system. Rule of thumb for where the AWB (Air and Water Barrier) should be this, are you heating most of the year or cooling. If you're Cooling the AWB needs to be as far out to the out side of the wall system as it can be, so at the outer sheathing of the building. If you 're heating the vapor barrier needs to be on the inside of the wall system, so at the dry wall layer. This is just a rule and every use case is different and you need to under stand how the wall assembly is built. It all comes down to where the "hot" humid air will try and condense, when you heat it drives the moister into the walls and to the cold outer layer of the wall. When you cool (at which point your dehumidifying) the moister is driven into the house and your drywall becomes the condensing surface. All of this breeds mold if not factored in, this is why we now have smart AWB's that can open or close pores in their structure and let or not let the vapors pass through them.
Your frame doesn't even remotely have enough space fro insulation in my area.The vault obvious no snow load, super weak design.cellose is a number on in the R 50 60 range.
The shed doesn't contain enough volume of air to be a healthy environment to live in . The materials we use are cheaper than the materials used in a home, this is not an option for housing of humans ,
Side note If it's 75 out its 60 inside If it's 32 out it's say 60 or more inside just on it's own. I have a fresh air handler on my trane heat pump. My building is 84x48 and to spray that 2.5 years ago was 15,500
Ummmm......spray foam insulation is extremely flammable and insurance companies are currently refusing to insure homes where is has been used. Do further research for yourself, but it is all the internet that it is becoming more and more prevalent as house fire excellerant.
Have fun with your spray foam. Someone keeps offering me to use all their spray foam equipment to make bank. I do construction to eat, and I refuse to touch that toxic crap mess. Way easier and cheaper making proper ventilation.
Woohoo! Congratulations! I will be doing closed cell spray foam on my ceiling for sure. I am still debating whether fiber glass or spray foam in walls. Send pics! We’d love to see updates!
@@UrbanToAcres We are doing it on the ceiling and underneath for sure. We will mostly go with the cheaper option for the walls. I have enjoyed all your helpful tips!
Well.... you clearly did not read much on rock wool..... organic is not the correct word....it is an inert glass fiber type of insulation....you left out several alt. insulation types.... for example the DOW no itch / no glass insulation bats
Everybody always has to put that comment in there like oh you use clossed spray foam. You're never going to know where your leak is in your roof. Do you realize that it takes you months before you figure out there's a leak in your roof? Anyway, if you have a shingled roof and an OSB roof it doesn't matter. If you got a leak, you're not going to figure it out for 2 months to 2 years anyway and you're going to have to redo Maybe two or three sheets on that roof or the entire thing. Usually not the entire roof. If you have a metal roof and you're using plywood, even if you have a leak, you might not notice that for years before anything gets horrible with or with out closed spray foam. if you do the maintenance of going up there every couple years and caulking over the screws you really shouldn't have anything to worry about. Caulk the screw when applying metal roofing. 2" spray foam with unfaced batts is perfect for this shed.
Spray foam is wonderful for that loud Mustang a few doors down. 2 cans in each tail pipe has the neighborhood quiet again.
😂😂😂
LOL
I am a pest control technician and I see termite damage behind spray foam and the foam boards with a metal side. We can't inspect behind that stuff so when damage is found it's often pretty bad. I see it used in crawl spaces and foam often hides termites and other stuff.
Who you work for?
@Sureshots. A pest control company in Newport News VA. One of the top 100 in the country, but we just have one shop with a bunch of people. I'm not going to blast the name here. We have a bunch of customers that have been using the company since it started in the 70s.
Pet control tech here too from Central N.Y. Thank goodness not to much trouble from termites here.
Another negative about closed cell Spray Foam on the underside of the roof is that it will seal the area to the point that you would never know there was a leak in the roof until it was rotted away and far more damage created as a result. In speaking with contractors for a project I have, They have warned against this, and some will not spray the underside of roof for this very reason.
I would have used real plywood it stands up better than wafer board I wouldn't want to replace with spray foam on it
@@theodorehyatt1782 I think those premade sheds are built on the cheap, which is why they use OSB instead of real plywood. If they used 8 foot studs on the sidewalls, you could run ceiling joists and insulate / vent like a regular house, however thick you want.
As a roofer I wouldn't use spray foam on the roofs underside and I would definitely recommend some kind of vent system unless you want to replace your roof every 10 years . I hear people say I have a metal roof so I don't have to worry about ventilation but even the sheeting will get cooked and dry rotted .
Of course you would! Replace it so Mr greed can make a buck .
Metal does NOT Dryrot ever ! It can rust if installed improperly. If installed properly, It can last a lifetime.
Stop the BS.
Oh my! Learn from my mistake. You will have a humid dripping jungle without any ventilation. Please put on a second roof with international building codes of .75-1 in for air draft. Costly but saved my home and way more energy efficient. Used rockwool on ceiling and walls and love it. Reflectix under neath between joists. East Texan here.
Very true. Don’t do as this guy is doing
Did you leave space between the Reflectix and the Rockwool & if so, how much, please?
@@Wisdomseeker_777 I used 4 in rock wool in the walls between studs, 6 inch rock wool in ceiling (above collar ties-gambrel roof) and stapled reflective UNDERNEATH the building between the joists. I just cut strips of reflectix out with 1 inch to fold down around joist and stapled it. You don't want an air gap between reflectix and the wood if possible. It holds 50F variance in temp well and is very well insulated. 14x30 building converted to tiny home. Be sure to put electric fan/vent in bathroom to reduce humidity. Due to no ventilation, I had roofers "build" a vented space above roof (remove metal first) and put regular roof on with ridge vent and soffits. It saved the cabin.
I use 2" foam board and double the amount, so now I have 4" of insulation. It's pretty good and easier to work with.
My experience with spray foam ceiling insulation that was professionally applied in a climate controlled garage/shop. The cons have been- #1 If there is a leak, good luck finding the original leak in the roof because it might not be anywhere near where it escapes through the foam which likely will come out where there's a light fixture or other electrical opening (once you remove the steel roofing, you'll find the rotted wood and when you replace it all, pray you sealed the leak). #2 It's a pain if you need to change any wiring (more an issue with it in walls unless you have a leak in roof). #3 Rodents love to tunnel through it and they can do so very quietly until damage is done. #4 It does burn nicely and that makes me wonder about toxins (we tested scraps left behind for flammability). The pros have been- #1- Insulation value and lack of drafts (until mice got in) were dramatically better than fiberglass. #2 -Outside noise blocking is incredible (based on family member's home on a busy corner in city) in combination with excellent windows. #3- It could be applied DIY or professionally- My family member started DIY, but found it was cheaper to hire it done and we found the same with our shop. Why pay more to purchase the materials and have to do the work plus clean up the mess you'll likely make? The problem here would be a smaller project might not be enough for the pros to really want to mess with unless they happen to have a larger project nearby to piggyback off of. So, in the end would we do it again? If we lived in town it would be a definite yes for the insulation and sound barrier alone. On the farm where we are, probably at least for the ceilings. If new construction I'd wait to make damn sure there were no roof leaks before adding the foam. Our leak only happened in extremely heavy rain with high NW winds, but we get that a lot. Once water gets in, it's trapped by the foam and will rot any wood sitting in it.
I used Rockwool and it was much easier to work with than fiberglass.
Rockwool is best
It's not any safer but is better. If that makes sense. I mean you don't want to breathe the dust off it either.
Another con of spray foam is that its gonna be really difficult to remove. Difficult to track down roof leaks.
Thanks for the additional information!
Hides bugs like termites too
Never spray foam on the underside of roof sheeting. I have used both closed cell foam and fiberglass and never had problems with moisture of pests. A proper vapor barrier with fiberglas will prevent moisture from entering. Kraft faced insulation is not a good vapor barrier.I have used closed cell on my last two homes in the walls, one in 1985. Our off-road cabin has all fiberglass and I haven’t had any moisture problems in 24 years.. I always use fiberglass in the ceiling with a good vapor barrier and adequate attic ventilation. We don’t have termites or cockroaches here.
rock wall sounds great and well worth it ,
It is “Rock WOOL”.
@estherjamack7717 sorry thought I heared him say rock wall
Rock wool is made in plants using slag rock from blast furnaces that occurs in steel making process.
Some states do not allow any living space to have particle Board because the Glue used to make that is toxic and will kill you before the fire or the smoke. Why anyone would use press board I will never understand when it gets wet it is no good. You can easily buy used lumber real cheap that would be a lot safer .I would also point out it is a lot cheaper to build your own shed then it is to buy one. Note a trick that I have used that works every time is thin sheet metal . Build your base/Flooring. then add sheet metal on the bottom leaving no gaps over lap them and leave enough sticking out of all four sides. Then build the frame for the walls Lay the sheet metal on the walls again no gaps. do the same for the roof. Then Insulate the floors walls and ceiling. You will not have any critters in the shed also between the wall studs lay about 2 cups of Cedar saw dust. The little critters hate Cedar. That is also why most people have a Cedar hope chest. Make sure you know the law for the state you live in and then the County because each county is different in their rules and laws but if a person really wants to cause some hate they can get the State to apply their rules and law.
I have built houses as well as sheds and Garages . I have been working with wood most of my life. I know there are people out there that can not build a thing out of wood and some can't even build a dog house or bird house. But Most of the people do have friends that do have skills. If they don't then make new friends lmao.
Sounds like a plan. Not sure about the impact on human health though. A metal roof and floor can feel eerie over time. Check out Building Biology, mainly the EMF aspects.
Foam board is also useful, especially with the radiant foil barrier.
expensive though
Like the blue board here in eastern Washington
Excellent information 👌
@@marklortie4681 thank you!
I live more in the northern midwast. I retired from building homes, so not a DYI. I built a 12×18 with 9 foot ceilings. R15 fiberglass for the walls, but the 2x4 roof was a bit of a compromise. R22 is the standard here. The 2x4 structure I had to just go with R15, vent shoots, sofit and full length vent cap. But I used high grade foil faced sheeting on the walls and water barrier sheeting on the roof with added roof rap and 25 shingles. Good vinyl siding. Non of it was cheep, but so far it all is working very well hot or cold. Buying a shed leaves fewer options, but a ready made advantage. Great for the south, but in the north, if you can build it like I did, you can overcome some of the down side. Laber was not a problem for me.
spray foam insulation can make it almost impossible to get a mortgage in some areas due to building inspector inability to see structures under the foam
take photos before spraying or have inspire done before foam
That is why there should be a frame inspection prior to insulation
@@AlexanderTuttle-h3d Problem is if you have spray foam insulation installed,and 5-10yrs later when you retire you try to sell your house the appraiser will demand a current inspection, depending on the State you live, they may be 6 months or 1yr prior to sale date. I've heard were people did get loans, your might go through a dozen loan officers before one will approve it, but you can forget a VA loan, which don't make sense because the Federal Gov't awards grants for spray foam insulation. It's usually the local banks that will give you the hardest time.
@@jimc3708 5 to 10 years ? I'm living in this box until I build the next one At that time I don't care about the old on (sale or dismantle) But keeping the same land. so there no city appraiser. my 12x28 box live -in ready was $15K
@@jimc3708 True if we are talking about a house over 1200 SQ FT
But the subject her is sheds 8x20 or up to 16x30
Thanks for that info. My shed looks the same as your barn shed. I want to go with rock wool liking the fire-resistant quality. I didn't want to do it before looking into that moisture problem. I don't like spray foam insulation on any of my buildings!
Thank you, for this information.
I here the economy is wonderful and I keep getting all these videos of people living in sheds and cars and bathing at la fitness
Hear
Ah, the American dream, every 4 years the so called two parties does tag team damage to our future.
@@Smoresthecat-t4r take your political bs elsewhere
Don't forget structural foam. It's closed cell and goes by weight. It's mainly used in the marine industry. It can be structural and because it's closed cell it's totally waterproof but it will not let moisture pass through it. So in building like your shed you'll have to use some type of moisture remover and add a air to air heat exchange to introduce fresh air.
We have a well built "cabin" and it didn't come with any insulation / drywall. I had people put up the regular kind of insulation and at the first snowfall we found there was a ton of moisture that the insulation "soaked up". I wasn't told I needed to use the spray foam insulation so I just had the fiberglass put up there. After reading some of your comments, my question is - if I keep the fiberglass insulation up there I know I will have to put some type of vents at the bottom of the roof. But will I need to put plastic or foam insulation trays put in before the insulation and then the drywall ? Or do I need to put something else up there to take up the space ? I person came out that we bought the cabin from and he said that one way of doing it if we didn't want to do spray foam is to put venting holes between each roof board and to put this Styrofoam piece that looked like it had aluminum foil on the sides along with the fiberglass insulation. I guess this would have filled in the room between the roof and insulation ? Any advice would be appreciated. Sorry for the long explanation.
I used rock wool in mine in the walls and r30 in the ceiling. I’m in south Alabama. It’s so quiet with the rock wool when I put it in and before it was covered by Sheetrock you couldn’t hear a person talking to you 30 feet away. I’m not on a busy road but it still cuts sound down immensely.
I have a large barn house in ohio
I spray foamed the entire thing closed cell.
The other day it was -2 and it was 76 in my house section 2800sq ft.
I have a 24 or 26 ft open ceiling to the roof. Looks like cracker barrel on the inside.
I have a good trane heat system on propane but if I feed my Wood stove it never turns on.
Roof ventilation isn’t dependent only on insulation type. You still need to vent roofs in most regions. How are you venting the roof with spray foam?
Exactly. You'll wind up with an entirely rotted roof. Fiberglass bats with the spacers
With a closed attic system, the attic space becomes part of the conditioned space. If your roof is rotting out, so are your walls.
Wondering same thing, I'd be worried about pr I er cavity ventilation before I get old over insulation type.
@@floridagunrat1625 right, I would stick with old school technology. Also, that tyvek crap seems suss to me as well. Just use tarpaper. Even if you don't have a direct leak there's always going to be humidity.
One way I seen done, is having 2x6 roof trusses and adding a strip of wood to either side of the trusses and against the sheathing. Then 3/4” foam boards fastened to the strips, that leave a gap between the foam and roof sheathing. Then the rest of the cell is filled with closed cell spray foam. Oh, the soffit and ridge are both vented, to allow air to enter the eaves snd escape the ridge. That substantially keeps the roof cool and lowers the chance of the sun’s heat entering the living space. If moisture from fog, or heavy humidity, enters the area between the sheathing and foam board, it’ll dry out quickly, once the dry air convection starts again.
Put fiber board for my ceiling 30 years ago and it is holding up great.
I had styrofoam blocks cut into pieces that are 92x14.5x3.
They seem to work great.
I've done a large RV like this. And I'm currently planning out my tiny house the same way.
I have an electric hot wire foam cutter here to do any trimming.
What's the downside of precut styrofoam blocks?
I have done this once. The insulation factor was great, but the install labor was tremendous. Every wall cavity is a little different. Then you have to cut around all of the outlets, wiring, plumbing, fire blocking, etc. Gaps were filled with cans of spray foam. It was a slow process.
@floridagunrat1625 With a tiny house it's not too bad. Not too much cutting for electrical and such.
And if you pay a foam company to cut them to exactly 14.5", you can use them as guides for your studs (on 16" centers) and they'll fit perfectly.
A hot wire cutter helps a lot.
Oh, and you don't need a vapor barrier with foam. I use one anyway though.
I do use cans of closed cell spray foam to fill any gaps too. And also to lock in any pieces that could possibly move over time.
I guess I'm just wondering what the pros think of fire and health safety. So far I've mostly used the commercial grade insulation foam with the fiberglass paper on both sides.
My next one is going to be plain white styrofoam unless I find a reason to not use it.
@@mikey92362 if I build a tiny house it will be cellulose blown it like my house built 20 years ago. best stuff there is. also, I will be running my electric and plumbing in conduit outside the walls where its easy to get to.
The con of spray foam is that it is highly flammable compared to fiberglass batt insulation.
That depends on the type of foam used. All foam will burn/melt when exposed to a flame. Some types will burn quite violently, but others will not support combustion on their own.
Depends on the type. I tested this back in 2017 when we used it. I couldn't get it to burn unless I continuously kept gasoline on it. Otherwise it would simply go out. A torch running on it wouldn't set it on fire either. It would char, turn black, smoke a little and that was about it. I would have thought it would have started burning on it's own but when you removed the flame it stopped smoking. It never actually produced a flame on it's own. Not like a piece of lumber, you hold a torch on it, it will catch fire remain burning when you remove the torch. I have no doubt, some spray foam burns but ours did not.
remember the first few inches of insulation have the greatest effect,I always notice on a shed near my home on a frosty morning,the roof space with r13 will almost always have frost on it while the uninsulated area sometimes is clear,its diminishing returns with thicker and thicker insulation.
What about the foam board sheets?
Before insulating seal and spray your wood inside with a mold killer and bug deterent then insulate with what's best if I build again I'd even go as far as spraying a water sealer to prevent leaks
My previous home had corn stalk insulation .
I am not gonna doubt what you say in this video, but the best insulation and protection from mold is cobb (a mud and straw mixture). Only thing about it is that you cannot or should not use sheetrock over it (cement, clay, slate, or wood work best with it). And you cannot use cob for the inner roof insulation (for obvious reasons). But using cobb for wall insulation will save lots of money on both heating AND cooling, and best of all- it is free or very cheap to make
If you are converting a shed it is likely you are in an area that does not perscribe to the building code. Regardless, it is a good idea to follow the code in case it is adopted by your county in the future. If that happens your structure will have more value. The minimum roof live load is 20 psf and is higher if you are in a snow region. The shed roof has joints at the angle points that would not calculate for that load. The reason for a minimum live load to support a fire fighter or weight of a human for roof maintenance. For the shed shown I would at least add 3/4" plywood glued and screwed gussets at the mid height angle point and at the ridge. That would help support more weight and reduce risking damage from getting on the roof and added dead load from insulation and sheet rock. Adding a metal clip to the roof joists and wall top plate is another good idea so they do not creep out with the added weight and thermal contraction and expansion forces of the roofing.
What!?
Thankfully, my unrestricted land is grandfathered in. I made 110% sure before I purchased the land. It can never be rezoned. I'm sure the gov has a dirty playbook they can use, but I have it all in writing. The property where I currently live however has a lot of restrictions. Permit needed for any building over 200 sf. Nothing built within 25 feet of the property lines, etc.
With fiberglass insulation it is very important to follow the instructions if you have 2 by 6 outer walls use insulation for 2 by 6 if you have 2 by 4 used insulation for 2 by 4 compressing the insulation defeats the whole purpose of putting it in don't leave any gaps at the top or bottom the edges should overlap each other it should be stapled and then taped plastic should not be used over the insulation seal up any holes in the outside wall because insulation does not stop the movement of air it only stops the transfer of cold to hot or hot to cold do not cram it in around the doors or Windows it will do no good that's what window and door spray foam is for do not seal up your house as tight as a whiskey barrel your house has to breathe
Also blown in cellulose. If your roof ever leaks, with spray foam, water may not appear for a long time leading to more damage.
Never use any spray foam. It never stops off gassing toxic gasses. Remember those manufactured homes that has this in it, after only a short time inside those, you would get a low grade head ache. You get Itchy eyes, body with fibre glass batt insulation.
cellulose is the best stuff there is for insulating.
Stop spreading lies
@ if you say this crap is safe YOU are the liar. Cellulose is safe. foam is toxic garbage.
@ maybe you are in the foam biz?
Are places like Arizona less prone to mold due to the less humidity? If so, is open cell foam better for those areas?
I built my home I still live in, in southern Arizona in 2010. If there is any way water can get in, it will eventually and mold can happen. Also can have issues with trapped moisture if if have poor ventilation. Moisture, just from showers and breathing can condensate on the widows when it is really cold outside. We had an issue with that until dealt with with better ventilation. So area you live is irreverent.
My house appears to be insulated with dead flies and ladybugs.
The vapor barrier should be under your steel roof
QUESTION, hi , good video and thank you. I have always wondered about a poor mans way to insulate a place, How about free cardboard boxes, like boxes that say bicycles come in at a Walmart , for example ? Double the layer, and use a small nail or screw with a washer on it .
Great advice I have a shed that does not have ridge vents or any type of venting other than 3 windows. So are you saying if I use Closed Cell spray foam and then cover it with drywall I will not have a problem with mould? I really do not want to spend extra money to hire a contractor to add ridge vents and baffles all that. I do plan to add electrical in it and use a fan to circulate the air in summers. I am wondering too is that if the guy comes to spray foam the ceiling wouldn't it make sense to just do the walls too? MY shed is only 10x12.
Metal buildings seem to sweat.
Is spray foam fumes harmful? I remember seeing a tv show that the homeowners believed they were getting sick from the fumes long after the install.
Not sure, but what I remember from a show like that I saw, was the blame being placed on an improper mix ratio of the A & B parts which left things incompletely reactive and thus outgassing. I’m partial to dense packed cellulose, and rock wool, myself.
@@orcoastgreenman all foam offgasses. no thanks.
It is worst when mixed or applied wrong. Once cured, not dangerous I think.
@@nebulousvoid disagree, it keeps off gassing for years, very dangerous. but to each his own.
@@SyntheticStuntMan I'm not disagreeing, I just have limited knowledge and conflicting sources. I know PVC gasses off long term. I wasn't sure about polyurethane.
I would be extremely suspicious of any shed which was not equipped with soffit vents.
Con: extremely flammable
Rock wool is melted, spalded, and fluffed slag from the metal foundry.
With a shed exterior installation is the safest way
Years ago I was told that foam insulation had a "GAS" Off that was hazardous to humans. Maybe the foam used now is different from what was used years ago.
You know maybe the trick would be to just drop that ceiling a little bit put yourself a space like a little attic then you could do some side Vents and some roof Vents and you'd be all set that roof looks plenty tall
The main advantage of spray foam is that is is air tight. The other types will let some air in no matter how tight you pack it.
Yeah thats the point it needs to breath or the moisture will be trapped
I wouldn't put spray foam insulation in anything I own.
What about Styrofoam insulation pieces?
@@jdel2315 do research and find a foam product that is non-toxic if such a thing exists. better yet, use cellulose blown in insulation like we did. Great stuff, great insulation properties and non-toxic. mice and bugs hate it (including termites). If I build again or ever finish out a building like this to live in, it will be celluose again.
That's what I was thinking. Fumes?
@ as far as I know all forms of foam offgas the chemicals they are made of. blown in cellulose is the safest thing you can use and it has great insulating properties.
Is price point the only reason you are not spray foaming the whole shed?
Why couldn't you use fiberglass and do a visqueen vapor barrier that's what we used to do work good just got to make sure you got it tight
Get yourself about 15 gallons of wind seed oil using a bug sprayer and then hosing down the inside of your dwelling will keep mold away plus it will chase out would eating insects I know it's not cheap to take and get but if you buy them both it ain't too bad
Linseed oil? Boiled or raw?
@@kld70Wind seed I guess never heard of it
I had not heard of it. Have now Googled it. Thanks for putting me on to something new. Have a good day. 👍
What about 3 inch foam panels on rafters? And, it's rockwool, not rock wall! On my barn roof shed, with 8 foot walls, I put joist to form ceiling and trap door to access attic, and 1 inch foam panels against underside of roof and 3 inch foam panels between ceiling joist. I put soffit vents (2 on each side). Used same 3 inch foam panels between floor joist. This was 6 years ago. Use very little heat or a/c.. R 19 fiberglass faced in walls.
Putting a metal roof directly on sheeting is a mistake. The sheeting needs to breathe and needs keep cool. Strapping on the sheeting then installing the steel to the strapping is the preferred way to install it. Installing spray foam makes the situation worse. I’d create soffits, use rigid foam sheets on the inside of the trusses, tape the joints, then drywall over the foam boards
Get the best insulation you can. You'll save in the long run.
Airflow is important for the life of your roof. The one we are building has soffit vents, and a rige cap vent will be going with a blow-in insolation. ps Make sure you do not cover the soffit vents use vent passenger made of Styrofoam
I just used Poly Pro foam boards. I don't live in the shed though.
Do not spray foam.
That ridge line shouldn't be sealed, cause that is a stand ventilation, unless someone purposely sealed it, the metal roof has rides in it and the metal roof ridge cap is the ventilation point, and if it has Housewrap, that is breathable so it can still vent but keep out moisture. So if you seal it with spray foam your gonna loose the ventilation.
Critter proof your shed, cabin, or home with reflectix across the floor joists and up the walls about two feet, unless it’s a mobile home then go up all the way.
Thanks for the tip!
@@UrbanToAcresHi! I'm thinking about putting reflexive in my garage from the bottom frame to the top of frame then drywall over that to have my garage fully insulated. No foam spray, no batting, just the radiant barrier. I live in Phoenix, Arizona. Have you any experience or knowledge of this is a good idea? Why or why not please.
@@jonesy5722 Thanks for reaching out. Unfortunately, I don't have any experience using what you are referring to, nor the climate area. I'm sorry. Hopefully someone will see this on this channel and be able to help you. Best wishes!
What do you think about using 2-3 inches of closed cell spray foam on my ceiling and adding Rockwool under the closed cell spray foam on my ceiling for extra/added insulation???
That is a good question. I have not heard of this method yet, so I wouldn't be able to answer that. I'm sorry. Hopefully someone on this channel will see this comment and be able to provide you with some advice.
Just use the foam at 3 inches and youll be good to go
It's not a good idea because the spray foam prevents the wool from breathing. It is common to see this problem in barndominiums.
IF you spray foam-you may NOT BE ABLE to secure insurance on your home.Look into it.
Everyone's got a scarry story
Good video
And the 4 x 8 sheets
I love utah. Mold is bearly a thing here
You can buy a foam board which does just as good and less painful to take it installed
Venting roofs is a building ordinance where im at
I think every state has adopted the standard code, which has the option of a "closed attic system".
Spary foam is not expensive. It has a 'higher initial cost'.
Use ROCKWOOL insulation.
The formaldehyde fumes from treated chipboard in closed in small space will make you sick, long term illness too.
Better off building something similar with your own lumber and treated only on the exterior
so, closed-cell will lock in moisture from a possible roof leak and you’d never know
Yup, terrible idea. Fiberglass with those pink spacers.
That's why they often use open cell foam. A roof leak comes right through.
What about foam board insulation
It's all perspective. They all have pros and cons.
mice can chew through any insulation and even treated lumber and osb
Near Houston, I bought a wood frame with metal exterior 12x10 shed. It's a man cave so I don't live in it unless I've been banished by the wife. LOL
I insulated it with two layers of R-10 Foam insulation board with Insulation bubble radiant barrier giving me ~R22 walls and Ceiling. On the Ceiling I cut it to fit snugly and pounded it between the frame with a softblow hammer and then stapled string across just to make sure it stays in place and stapled the radiant barrier over it to the beams.
Granted the Silver bubble radiant barrier may not as astetically pleasing for a living area but for a work space it keeps the shed light and bright. I also use the shed to start seedlings in the winter and to stash my Tropicals in during hard freezes. I have a ducted AC/Heater Heat pump in there too.
I stayed away from Rock Wool and fiberglass that it could trap moisture and if disturbed the fibers can get airborne and inhaled. During installation I'd use a resparatior but not during daily normal use so that was a concern. If I ever need to inspect behind it the insulation can be easily pulled out.
Open face fiber glass is moisture permeable and will let TONS of water vapor through. Rock wool is also vapor permeable, the problem comes when ppl put non vapor permeable barriers over them on the inside especially in the Southern US were humidity is high in the summer months.
The reason comes down to the condensing surfaces are on the wrong side of the wall system. Rule of thumb for where the AWB (Air and Water Barrier) should be this, are you heating most of the year or cooling. If you're Cooling the AWB needs to be as far out to the out side of the wall system as it can be, so at the outer sheathing of the building. If you 're heating the vapor barrier needs to be on the inside of the wall system, so at the dry wall layer. This is just a rule and every use case is different and you need to under stand how the wall assembly is built.
It all comes down to where the "hot" humid air will try and condense, when you heat it drives the moister into the walls and to the cold outer layer of the wall. When you cool (at which point your dehumidifying) the moister is driven into the house and your drywall becomes the condensing surface. All of this breeds mold if not factored in, this is why we now have smart AWB's that can open or close pores in their structure and let or not let the vapors pass through them.
Your frame doesn't even remotely have enough space fro insulation in my area.The vault obvious no snow load, super weak design.cellose is a number on in the R 50 60 range.
Old guy here Used to sheath with cdx looks like cardboard is used now. What a shame
Down here, we still use cdx. For a few dollars more, we go to 5/8". The cheap places are done with OSB.
People did build and survive before fiberglass.
fiberglass with a vapor barrier and have proper ventilation, it will outlast you.........
What state are you in and how are you allowed to get away with that that's what I'd like to know
The shed doesn't contain enough volume of air to be a healthy environment to live in . The materials we use are cheaper than the materials used in a home, this is not an option for housing of humans ,
Use denim georgia
Start with metal siding not wood metal don't rot out
Issue has nothing to do with cheap chipboard filled with toxic glue . LOL
Side note
If it's 75 out its 60 inside
If it's 32 out it's say 60 or more inside just on it's own.
I have a fresh air handler on my trane heat pump.
My building is 84x48 and to spray that 2.5 years ago was 15,500
Insulate the house on the outside and keep it painted. You will never have that problem.
Ummmm......spray foam insulation is extremely flammable and insurance companies are currently refusing to insure homes where is has been used. Do further research for yourself, but it is all the internet that it is becoming more and more prevalent as house fire excellerant.
Have fun with your spray foam. Someone keeps offering me to use all their spray foam equipment to make bank. I do construction to eat, and I refuse to touch that toxic crap mess.
Way easier and cheaper making proper ventilation.
I have done hvac piping some pipe we insulated with fart rock its exactly what it sounds like
Don't listen to the dude he's not a roofer.
So the big question is, which one are you going with? Ours gets delivered next week! I think we are going with the closed cell spray foam
Woohoo! Congratulations! I will be doing closed cell spray foam on my ceiling for sure. I am still debating whether fiber glass or spray foam in walls. Send pics! We’d love to see updates!
@@UrbanToAcres We are doing it on the ceiling and underneath for sure. We will mostly go with the cheaper option for the walls. I have enjoyed all your helpful tips!
@ that sounds like a plan! Thanks for the kind words!
@@UrbanToAcresyou could also cut and glue foam boards to fit into your stud cavities.
@@UrbanToAcres if you are in a country area prone to rodents that could be another insulation consideration. (Rockwool has virtues in that regard.)
dehumidifier
Why not just build a scaled down version of a real home?
Rock wool/ mineral wool insulation. Do your research.
That's what I'm using. And spray fire resistant on wood
Yup, it's called asbestos. Where do you even buy that these days.😂
@callmeishmaelk767 Lowes and jsyk it does not contain asbestos.
Asbestos is banned in this country, but it is still used for some things in the third world.
@@callmeishmaelk767 rock wool does NOT have asbestos in it! It's made from rocks. Look into it.
There's foam board
Well.... you clearly did not read much on rock wool..... organic is not the correct word....it is an inert glass fiber type of insulation....you left out several alt. insulation types.... for example the DOW no itch / no glass insulation bats
What do the Amish do?
Everybody always has to put that comment in there like oh you use clossed spray foam. You're never going to know where your leak is in your roof. Do you realize that it takes you months before you figure out there's a leak in your roof? Anyway, if you have a shingled roof and an OSB roof it doesn't matter. If you got a leak, you're not going to figure it out for 2 months to 2 years anyway and you're going to have to redo Maybe two or three sheets on that roof or the entire thing. Usually not the entire roof.
If you have a metal roof and you're using plywood, even if you have a leak, you might not notice that for years before anything gets horrible with or with out closed spray foam. if you do the maintenance of going up there every couple years and caulking over the screws you really shouldn't have anything to worry about. Caulk the screw when applying metal roofing.
2" spray foam with unfaced batts is perfect for this shed.