Recently got a Teisco et200 from a friend to save it from the trash. Its complete outside of the tremolo bar and spring . Needs finger board reattached , new nut , and an electrical rewire . The neck is strait and hardware is not rusted . Excited .Thanks for the video it helps .
i used to have one of these my brother bought it for me about 10 years ago for £15 from a car boot sale !! it played fantastic i actually gigged with it for a while as a rhythm in a band .... i wish i'd kept it i sold it a while a go for £100
Well... that was a surprise and a delightful one... so pleased... very thoughtful indeed and they will go to very good use... I have been playing with GG and will include the video in my next guitar one... it will be a Gibson Les Paul set up... with fret issues. thank you!
I have one near identical to that. Same body and neck. Same bridge and vibrato. Same two-slide-switches. Same split pickguard, although mine is solid black and solid white, instead of patterned and chrome. Pickups on mine are a different sort of ceramic type, though, with the rounded ends, similar to what is found on many Guyatones of the era. I found the bridge pickup a little too quiet, so I added a few hundred more turns to the coil to heat it up and make the level comparable to the neck. The bridges used were *terrible* and simply pieces of folded sheet metal. I fabricated a replacement bridge for mine, from a solid piece of half-round aluminum bar. Sits nicely in the base, and is height adjustable like the original, but eats up less of the sustain. The rounded top also plays nicely with the vibrato. Like yours, mine had no vibrato arm, so I fabricated one. Finally, I filed one of the switch holes to extend the opening and permit installation of a 3-position slide switch that allows the "half-out-of-phase" mod for the neck pickup. Normally, putting two such pickups out of phase with each other gets a thin reedy tone with a noticeable volume drop. When a capacitor is put in series with the neck pickup in the phase-reversed setting, it trims off the bass from that pickup and provides for no cancellation and NO volume drop. Equally important, it yields a second very usable neck+bridge sound.
That's the exact same model my mother bought for my 15th birthday. It came from a Grattan catalogue, but that was 1977 so I guess it was sat in a warehouse for a decade. There was no logo on the headstock and I only found out recently it was a Teisco Spectrum II. The action was so high that the only way to make it playable was to - ironically - remove the height adjustment thumbwheels and screw the bridge directly to the baseplate. A set of light gauge string later and it actually playable for a complete beginner. After a few more, ahem, modification, it was sold to a friend for a tenner. By then I'd graduated to a Yamaha SF500 and at the time I didn't miss it. Now I wish it was still around.
Love it! What a great story... me too, I wish I hadn't gotten rid of the guitars that I have had in the past too. Especially my Gibson USA 1964 ES-355TD which was sold for £15 !!!!
OH dear! I copied and pasted your suggestion in Google search and you should see what came up!!!!! I forgot to copy the 'guitar' part of 'guitar fetish' LOLOLOLOL
I also have one of these guitars and, like you I thought for ages that it was a mid-60's Teisco. We were both wrong. I now know it's a Kawai Lynx (model 9660) made in Korea in the mid 70's. The design is based closely on the Teisco Spectrum, but this particular offset shape appears nowhere in any of the catalogues of the time.
I wonder if you could solder an old screw driver to the dodgy screws and see if that could turn them out, save drilling and filling. Just a thought may be useless.
in the end i did little. it was pretty solid and it was full of dirt in the small gap so, rather than major work i just put a drop of glue in it and wrapped it tight with a cloth.
I suspect that a reason we so often see Japanese guitars with badly chewed up screws is that they might not be ordinary Phillips and instead could be JIS Japanese Industrial Standard "Phillips" screws, which are a bit shallower and have a different angle than ordinary Phillips screws and screwdrivers; And therefore are easy to strip out with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver especially if the tip of the screwdriver is already a little mangled. JIS screws were commonly used in Japanese hifi gear from the 1960s through the 80s, and on Japanese motorcycles ( As motorcycle owners often discovered the hard way when they stripped out the screwheads holding the carburetor in place). Some JIS screws will have a little dot or divot punched into the screwhead to identify them as such but others may not. Anyway, very few people own proper JIS standard screwdrivers (a company called Vessel makes/sells them) but I have found that some screwdriver brands or drive bits work better than others, Milwaukee impact-rated bits being a particularly good fit in my experience (and an even better fit if you file off the bottom of the screwdriver bit just a little bit).
Never heard of that before.... I find these small issues fascinating.... I need a complete set of tools.... but I will make a point of getting a JIS screwdriver....thank you and thank yo for taking the time!
@@LennonLuthierFinagler , there are several videos on UA-cam that compare JIS Phillips to ordinary Phillips. There's also another Phillips variant known as Pozidrive screws, which have EIGHT vanes instead of four (the extra 4 are smaller) and have corresponding hash marks in the head of the screw. These are NOT compatible with ordinary Phillips; a Phillips screwdriver might sometimes be okay to remove/reinstall a Pozidrive screw if it's not super tight and the screw is hardened, but a Pozidrive screwdriver will quickly chew up and strip the heads of an ordinary Phillips screw. Here in the US I haven't seen Pozidrive screws on guitars, but they're popular for European furniture (such as IKEA) and I've seen them used on European hifi equipment such as Bang & Olafsen. By the way, I installed an accordion-panel sliding vinyl door the other day that was presumably Chinese made but came with JIS Phillips screws; they had the identifying divot punched into the screwheads.
Ordinary 3 in 1 oil polymerizes and forms a skin coat that protects against rusting ---- but it gets gummy and isn't a good choice for moving parts like gears or hinges. Use their motor-bearing oil instead; or a synthetic motor oil.
@@LennonLuthierFinagler, Deoxit is a cleaner for switches and pots, *not* a traditional lubricant, and way too expensive for use as a lubricating oil. For tuner gears and other moving parts, try some synthetic motor oil instead.
I like the rain in the background
Recently got a Teisco et200 from a friend to save it from the trash. Its complete outside of the tremolo bar and spring . Needs finger board reattached , new nut , and an electrical rewire . The neck is strait and hardware is not rusted . Excited .Thanks for the video it helps .
LOve to see images... austen @ austenlennon co.uk
i used to have one of these my brother bought it for me about 10 years ago for £15 from a car boot sale !! it played fantastic i actually gigged with it for a while as a rhythm in a band .... i wish i'd kept it i sold it a while a go for £100
great work!!!
Very nice pickups same as Gold Foils I believe Thanks for the video Austen 😊
I feel "SOOOO GOOOD" seeing that I am not the only one having trouble finishing an old neck from the '50's
Keep talking through your videos Austin, its enjoyable listening to you figure it out🐈
Well... that was a surprise and a delightful one... so pleased... very thoughtful indeed and they will go to very good use... I have been playing with GG and will include the video in my next guitar one... it will be a Gibson Les Paul set up... with fret issues. thank you!
" Every day, in every way, I'm feeling better and better". Somebody's a Pink Panther fan!
:-) Loved the cartoon series too,
I have one near identical to that. Same body and neck. Same bridge and vibrato. Same two-slide-switches. Same split pickguard, although mine is solid black and solid white, instead of patterned and chrome. Pickups on mine are a different sort of ceramic type, though, with the rounded ends, similar to what is found on many Guyatones of the era. I found the bridge pickup a little too quiet, so I added a few hundred more turns to the coil to heat it up and make the level comparable to the neck.
The bridges used were *terrible* and simply pieces of folded sheet metal. I fabricated a replacement bridge for mine, from a solid piece of half-round aluminum bar. Sits nicely in the base, and is height adjustable like the original, but eats up less of the sustain. The rounded top also plays nicely with the vibrato. Like yours, mine had no vibrato arm, so I fabricated one. Finally, I filed one of the switch holes to extend the opening and permit installation of a 3-position slide switch that allows the "half-out-of-phase" mod for the neck pickup. Normally, putting two such pickups out of phase with each other gets a thin reedy tone with a noticeable volume drop. When a capacitor is put in series with the neck pickup in the phase-reversed setting, it trims off the bass from that pickup and provides for no cancellation and NO volume drop. Equally important, it yields a second very usable neck+bridge sound.
That's the exact same model my mother bought for my 15th birthday. It came from a Grattan catalogue, but that was 1977 so I guess it was sat in a warehouse for a decade. There was no logo on the headstock and I only found out recently it was a Teisco Spectrum II. The action was so high that the only way to make it playable was to - ironically - remove the height adjustment thumbwheels and screw the bridge directly to the baseplate. A set of light gauge string later and it actually playable for a complete beginner. After a few more, ahem, modification, it was sold to a friend for a tenner. By then I'd graduated to a Yamaha SF500 and at the time I didn't miss it. Now I wish it was still around.
Love it! What a great story... me too, I wish I hadn't gotten rid of the guitars that I have had in the past too. Especially my Gibson USA 1964 ES-355TD which was sold for £15 !!!!
There is a pickup company in America that makes the foil pickups called Guitar Fetish.
OH dear! I copied and pasted your suggestion in Google search and you should see what came up!!!!! I forgot to copy the 'guitar' part of 'guitar fetish' LOLOLOLOL
It is unusual to see a Teisco from the 60's without a zero fret, yes it may be a 70's model.
Yep. It's a 70's Kawai, made in Korea.
I also have one of these guitars and, like you I thought for ages that it was a mid-60's Teisco.
We were both wrong. I now know it's a Kawai Lynx (model 9660) made in Korea in the mid 70's. The design is based closely on the Teisco Spectrum, but this particular offset shape appears nowhere in any of the catalogues of the time.
Are you sure? I can find no information on Kawai Lynx (model 9660) :-)
Japanese Fender Mustang inspired Lawsuit era copy. That's a Beauty! 👄👁️
If anyone is rebuilding one of these Amazon sells some replacement parts.
I wonder if you could solder an old screw driver to the dodgy screws and see if that could turn them out, save drilling and filling. Just a thought may be useless.
that might have worked on a guitar that was not made of such hard wood.... those screws were well and truly jammed in...
I think that Kirk's Enterprise would have been more period-correct for this guitar, but the end results look great.
Did you glue and clamp the neck where it was seperating
in the end i did little. it was pretty solid and it was full of dirt in the small gap so, rather than major work i just put a drop of glue in it and wrapped it tight with a cloth.
it's a pleasure to see your videos, compliments in addition to your skill, you make me happy, you're very nice, a cuddle from me to your girl
Thank you very much! I just love your name...... It is a poet poem in itself.
@@LennonLuthierFinagler thx so much 🙏🏻
That trem is a lot like the Jaguar/jazzmaster trem so it kinda did catch on 🙃
I suspect that a reason we so often see Japanese guitars with badly chewed up screws is that they might not be ordinary Phillips and instead could be JIS Japanese Industrial Standard "Phillips" screws, which are a bit shallower and have a different angle than ordinary Phillips screws and screwdrivers; And therefore are easy to strip out with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver especially if the tip of the screwdriver is already a little mangled. JIS screws were commonly used in Japanese hifi gear from the 1960s through the 80s, and on Japanese motorcycles ( As motorcycle owners often discovered the hard way when they stripped out the screwheads holding the carburetor in place). Some JIS screws will have a little dot or divot punched into the screwhead to identify them as such but others may not. Anyway, very few people own proper JIS standard screwdrivers (a company called Vessel makes/sells them) but I have found that some screwdriver brands or drive bits work better than others, Milwaukee impact-rated bits being a particularly good fit in my experience (and an even better fit if you file off the bottom of the screwdriver bit just a little bit).
Never heard of that before.... I find these small issues fascinating.... I need a complete set of tools.... but I will make a point of getting a JIS screwdriver....thank you and thank yo for taking the time!
@@LennonLuthierFinagler , there are several videos on UA-cam that compare JIS Phillips to ordinary Phillips. There's also another Phillips variant known as Pozidrive screws, which have EIGHT vanes instead of four (the extra 4 are smaller) and have corresponding hash marks in the head of the screw. These are NOT compatible with ordinary Phillips; a Phillips screwdriver might sometimes be okay to remove/reinstall a Pozidrive screw if it's not super tight and the screw is hardened, but a Pozidrive screwdriver will quickly chew up and strip the heads of an ordinary Phillips screw. Here in the US I haven't seen Pozidrive screws on guitars, but they're popular for European furniture (such as IKEA) and I've seen them used on European hifi equipment such as Bang & Olafsen.
By the way, I installed an accordion-panel sliding vinyl door the other day that was presumably Chinese made but came with JIS Phillips screws; they had the identifying divot punched into the screwheads.
Ordinary 3 in 1 oil polymerizes and forms a skin coat that protects against rusting ---- but it gets gummy and isn't a good choice for moving parts like gears or hinges. Use their motor-bearing oil instead; or a synthetic motor oil.
I bought some Dioxide but it is expensive... will try it in my next video...
@@LennonLuthierFinagler, Deoxit is a cleaner for switches and pots, *not* a traditional lubricant, and way too expensive for use as a lubricating oil. For tuner gears and other moving parts, try some synthetic motor oil instead.
I have the same model and am about to restore it.
Jack ~'()'~ Canada
Silent videos are really boring, carry on as you are, its great to hear you talking :+)
My ex doesn't agree with you... LOLOL
You ever had a russian guitar?
Never had one on my bench... would love to get one of their 7 string guitars.
That Fender video was fake
One of my videos? Which one do you mean?
The fender that was in a barn or what ever
@@georgewithrowahh yes, I was rambling on about it ... lol
I have something almost identical but told it's korean 70s.