While not useful in the sense that I will never build a steam anything, I find these videos entertaining from a mechanical perspective , how they go together and how they work.
Hi Keith, a tip from the 1970's Pathology Laboratory - I was trained to heat the end of a piece of freshly-cut glass tubing in a bunsen burner for 20 to 30 seconds. As the glass heats to red, it softens and the jagged ends "smooth out". It's quick and avoids any risk of shattering.
I understand why Keith does it the way he does , glass when molten is subject to surface tension and gives a flared/domed end not suitable to slip in the gaskets/silicon tube.
It is a good idea to do that really, but I would have to change the burner head on the massive blowtorch at The Steam Workshop and that takes time .... I will try it in my home workshop though, because rounding the edges is a very useful thing to do when pushing silicone tubing onto the ends . . .
Having done quite a lot of laboratory glasswork, can I suggest that you stick with a fine file for taking off the edges of your site glass tube, or some fine emery.
Dear Mr Appleton, I'm a bit worried about my husband. He watches you videos, day in and day out. Recently the situation has got even worse. I don't watch your films, but I hear your voice in my house, all day. I keep hearing the words, 'Bacho Spanner and Cellulose thinners'...I think he is REWATCHING the same video again and again...what do you suggest. Mrs Holland.
Another easy method to remove the sharp edges from glass is fire polishing. Just hold the ends in a strong blue flame from a blow torch and rotate it to provide even heat for 30 secs to a min and the edge will curl over and become smooth. Just don't over heat it.
Keith - I have been watching your videos for the last 6 months and this series has been really good as I am about to start a Polly Model 5” gauge kit. In all your work you reference your trusty Bahco adjustable spanner. What size is it and where did you get it from?
Hi Keith, my ash pan and grate on my Chub will not move at all. I see from your last video that the boiler rests on the ash pan top, if I have picked up the explanation correctly. My boilers in place at the moment, is it possible to remove them like this. Wondering what I would do if I needed to remove the fire quickly! Any advice appreciated.
You dont suppose some one may have tried to use a mechanical lubricator and had plans to put it in on the wet pipe? (speculating the reason for the hole). I wouldnt put a snifter valve in a smoke box. That would be plain nuts! To have one there the owner would be risking sucking some soot or other contaminant into the valve and then the snifter would be stuck open. Yup good idea to solder it off.
Mr. Appleton. I really like all your videos. Yourself being a hobbyist, you sure know what you doing.
While not useful in the sense that I will never build a steam anything, I find these videos entertaining from a mechanical perspective , how they go together and how they work.
I appreciate RTV. I've been using it for decades now and it hasn't let me down yet.
Wow!!!!!! Keith be very proud of yourself a great job can't wait to see finished engine.
Hi Keith, a tip from the 1970's Pathology Laboratory - I was trained to heat the end of a piece of freshly-cut glass tubing in a bunsen burner for 20 to 30 seconds. As the glass heats to red, it softens and the jagged ends "smooth out". It's quick and avoids any risk of shattering.
I understand why Keith does it the way he does , glass when molten is subject to surface tension and gives a flared/domed end not suitable to slip in the gaskets/silicon tube.
It is a good idea to do that really, but I would have to change the burner head on the massive blowtorch at The Steam Workshop and that takes time .... I will try it in my home workshop though, because rounding the edges is a very useful thing to do when pushing silicone tubing onto the ends . . .
Having done quite a lot of laboratory glasswork, can I suggest that you stick with a fine file for taking off the edges of your site glass tube, or some fine emery.
Dear Mr Appleton, I'm a bit worried about my husband. He watches you videos, day in and day out. Recently the situation has got even worse. I don't watch your films, but I hear your voice in my house, all day. I keep hearing the words, 'Bacho Spanner and Cellulose thinners'...I think he is REWATCHING the same video again and again...what do you suggest. Mrs Holland.
It all sounds entirely normal to me - are you sure that you are not just starting to hear the voices ??? }:-)))
5weeks worth to catch up on.....thank you! :)
A beautiful model !
Wetting the scratch in the sight glass tube should make it snap easier. A top top I learned way back in my college chemistry.
If things seem a little bit loose ,girlfriend wise, the judicious application of a little lemon juice always helps to tighten things up.
Try an appropriate grit diamond lap for the glass cleanup
Great video.
Wet the scratch before breaking it ,oh and a short sharp scratch is better (cleaner break usually).
She is looking good in what looks like L.B.S.C. brown not long to go now best of luck.
Is that the same shade as the famous 'Improved Engine Green'? On my monitor the shade Keith has used appears to be a little darker than that.
I have no idea. At the Steam Workshop the painting is nothing to do with me ......
Hello, Do You prefer Loctite 542 of 565 for Boiler fittings Thank You Alec
I use 542
Another easy method to remove the sharp edges from glass is fire polishing. Just hold the ends in a strong blue flame from a blow torch and rotate it to provide even heat for 30 secs to a min and the edge will curl over and become smooth. Just don't over heat it.
Keith - I have been watching your videos for the last 6 months and this series has been really good as I am about to start a Polly Model 5” gauge kit. In all your work you reference your trusty Bahco adjustable spanner. What size is it and where did you get it from?
the one I use most is the 100mm (4 inch type) you can get them from Ebay or Amazon etc
🇦🇺. Great work Keith
You can melt the edges of the tube round instead of sanding it.
Hi Keith, my ash pan and grate on my Chub will not move at all. I see from your last video that the boiler rests on the ash pan top, if I have picked up the explanation correctly. My boilers in place at the moment, is it possible to remove them like this. Wondering what I would do if I needed to remove the fire quickly! Any advice appreciated.
the grart rests on 2 bars and the rear bar swings out to release the grate. i will show it in closeup next time i am working on the engine . . .
What did you say that watchmakers spanner was called? I can’t seem to make out what you called it. Thanks for the videos.
Coventry Mechanism
Half the diameter would take a while to file , or half the circumference ?
I was watching a video on Victorian locomotives. Two huge driving wheels with a firebox in between. I had a girlfriend like that!
hahaha - you bet me to that one }:-)))
You make nice steam engines. All I make is bad jokes.
Random question: why are there two safety valves? Does this have to do with the volume of steam one valve can manage or something else?
Please watch some more of my recent videos ......
Kann man auch auf Deutsch übersetzen ??
You dont suppose some one may have tried to use a mechanical lubricator and had plans to put it in on the wet pipe?
(speculating the reason for the hole). I wouldnt put a snifter valve in a smoke box. That would be plain nuts! To have one there the owner would be risking sucking some soot or other contaminant into the valve and then the snifter would be stuck open. Yup good idea to solder it off.
Why are there usually two safety valves on steam locomotives out of interest?
Please watch some more of my recent videos ......
Take it as red that you used Loctite - pun intended?