Thank you very much Dean, and welcome aboard. And also thank you for taking the time to comment. I just keep it plain and simple, and I try to keep the videos as short as I possibly can and without leaving anything out
Thank you for being the only video that full shows whats happening and how to get everything together! Appreciate you helping me save time for a 79 beetle
Thank you very much for the kind comment. I truly appreciate that. That was an older video. I was still getting used to filming. I’ll actually be redoing that in the next coming weeks with a little better photography lol thank you for being here.
It's inspiring to see your "every man" approach, and that assembly doesn't always go perfect (edited out) as well as what to watch for and being patient. The close ups and explanations go a long way as well. Explaining why the cooling, aka temperature regulating flaps, needs to be there. This was my first time seeing how the tin and thermostat is mounted. Your shooting style shows it in a way where even a novice like me gets it. Thanks 👍
I'm 63 and going to be a new Bug Dad, we are expecting a 1972 Super. These videos are the most helpful I have yet to view. Please continue with sharing your experiences as you do. You remind me of my shop teacher of the high school years where views and explanations are totally clear. Thank You.
You have the most educational videos this is really helpful. What’s really good is I honestly don’t know a lot about be vw motors.so I feel like you are actually teaching me which is awesome .I bet a lot of people feel that way.👍
I've just rebuilt the engine for my 72 Karmann Ghia. The original thermostat failed and the new style replacement required a fair few tweaks to get it to work properly. Now that I have sourced oem replacements for most of the chromed junk it's almost ready for the first start.
That’s good news, you’re almost ready to start it up. That’s excellent! Yeah some of these aftermarket parts, and the Chrome crap is complete garbage. Awesome powder coat sells pretty nice thermostats but they’re not very cheap.
The best thing you can do for a VW air cooled engine! I think that just a little percentage of them still have it properly installed and working!! Very good job!!
Hello, Slade. Great video. I noticed that you’re missing the weatherstrip between the fan shroud and the doghouse tin (the upper tin). This weatherstrip is just regular sponge-type weatherstrip, and it keeps the hot air that passes through the oil cooler from leaking out the upper dog house tin before the air passes to the lower chute tin. You’ll see which tin I’m talking about. It’s the second (upper one) that you installed. The lowerchute tin obviously has a rubber seal already attached. Just use regular weatherstrip for this upper chute seal, by the way. It’s the kind that you used to seal the periphery of your oil cooler. Using this seal insures that all the hot air escapes only through the lower opening of the lower doghouse chute tin. P.s. it’s also important that the thermostat rod passes through the head hole that is closest to the crank. There are two holes in the head that the rod may pass through. The outer head hole-nearest the heat exchangers-is not the correct one. If the rod is in that one, the rod will gang up.
Hey my friend, actually I did seal that off. I use some 3M strip that I had on hand. After the video I was sitting on my stool staring at it, and realized I wasn’t happy with the gap being there. Yes I put it through the hole closest to the crankshaft. It almost looks like it has a little tin plate down inside with a hole.
Yea, that little tin plate is very important, there is one for each bottom of each head. The one on the right is slotted to allow for the thermostat rod. These plates force the cooling air around the head fins in a better manner. I mentioned the hole nearest the crank because it’s possible to thread the thermostat rod into the other head hole, even with that little slotted tin in the way. I once put the thermostat rod in the wrong hole, and the rod kept getting hung up to the point that the flaps wouldn’t open properly. I also had to replace the right thermostat flap arrangement because the “C” flange (where the top of the thermostat rod fits into) was stretched a little (it doesn’t take much to make it wonky, if someone pulls up hard on the shroud when removing the shroud). Once this “C” flange is stretched out, your thermostat won’t open and close to the correct range,
I appreciate your many videos! I currently have my 73 beetle engine on my stand and I have been using your guidance on the whole process. I need to install the bottom tins (that were not with the car at purchase). I see I have to remove the heater boxes and exhaust to install them. While working on cleaning up the motor, I noticed the bolt is missing that connects the thermostat to the bracket. My question is, can I purchase some bolts for this and I assume the bolts are the same as on the bracket and other points on the motor. I do have a pack of screws for the tins. Thank you!
Hello brother. Looking good. It helps a lot to have an extra set of hand to install the fan shroud, to make sure that rod doesn’t bent. Lol... I have made that mistake before, where I got caught myself doing other things, and forgot to install that tiny bolt. Specially when you are doing the camera recording by yourself. Nice video as always.
Thanks brother, and I hope that you’re doing well. Yeah you have to be careful not to bend that rod, some folks put the alternator in the fan shroud last. To make it easier to maneuver. My hands are on the larger side, and unfortunately it does become a pain in the butt.
Vert good! Here in Brazil I haven't ever seen a thermostat installed. I've had seven cars with this motor. Do you think issues unnecessary here in Brazil? Thank you very much.
Hello Slade. I would never say you are wrong but I would say you may have a different interpretation of things than I do. I am referring specifically to the spring loaded operation of your blower housing flappers. In your video, and maybe indeed on your particular car, you demonstrate the flappers being open as you pull AGAINST the spring tension and being closed when the the spring is is in the home position. ( initial installation position) In your demonstration you explain your flaps default to the closed position and open against the spring tension. I think you have gotten things backward a bit. Your flaps should default to the open position, that is if the thermostat linkage is not connected the flaps should be open. The system must default to full air flow situation upon failure of the thermostat, so the flaps must be open at all times. So what closes the flaps? Upon initial installation of the thermostat and linkage you are preloading the the flapper system closed against the spring tension and forcing the flaps to close. As the bellows heats up it expands and relaxes under the preload of the return spring which is trying desperately to default to the open position. It took quite a while to figure this out. The bellows does not expand to close the flaps, it expands to ALLOW the flaps to open. So when the bellows fails it will always fail in the flaps open position because the return spring is acting on the flaps. If this makes sense cool, if doesn't that's cool too. If you want to delete this post that's cool too. at least you did he work of making the vid and posting it. Thanks man. The first sentence you said relating to the open position of the mechanism was correct.
Of course I won’t delete the message! I appreciate your input and you taking the time to comment with a great explanation! I did explain the reverse of the operation as to the way it functions! I thought I followed up with correction, I may not of. What you stated is exactly accurate, and I truly appreciate that!! Without the stat connected the flaps are in open position. With the stat pulling them closed. Then if the stat fails, it expands with the flaps in the open position.
Good Video sir. Thanks for the knowledge. I use dow corning high vacuum silicone grease on alot of static parts and it is great on brake systems because it won't destroy EPDM rubber parts. Keep up allowing us to benefit from your knowledge!!!!!
Thank you so much for the tip! I will have to look that up. I never heard of that grease before. But I’m always up for using new things. Thanks so much for being here I truly appreciate it.
Very nice video. I have a 1967 vw bus and getting ready to replace the alternator. Is it posible to remove the four studs on the alternator bracket so i wouldn"t have to loosen the dog house and be able to pull the altenator straight back. I would put bolts back in for future changes. Thanks again
I have done a lot of the stuff while they are in the vehicle. It’s not very much fun that’s for sure. You can get to everything you need to, but you’ll end up swearing a lot. 😁
The duct work on the back of the shroud (drivers side back) fits really loose with big air gaps. Should you use silicon, rtv or something to fill the gaps?
Right?!?!? I have no idea why I even said something so stupid. 🙄 But I seldom edit anything out it’s real time. Thanks so much for being here and thank you for the compliment.
Great info, my car is missing the thermostat system entirely, I found a guy with the parts, so that will be a winter project. My car has dual carbs, I presume those will need to come off to get the engine out? It will also be a good time to make sure none of the shrouding and seals are missing on my car.
There you go, take your time over the winter and do it properly. If you need anything just give a yell! I have a couple of videos on the thermostat. Of course there will be more over the winter since I will be doing another engine. With dual carburetors, that is the only downfall they will have to be removed to pull the engine. That’s why I’m going to do a removable apron when I install this one. I’ll be installing those large dual carburetors that I had gotten recently.
out of curiosity ..how much does that engine weigh ready for "drop in" because living in an NYC apartment with no garage, i figured i might buy one and rebuild as you have here and then take it with me when i find a shell to drop into.
Typically depending on what you have on them, if you have the heater boxes on with the exhaust system. Anywhere from 200-250 pound. You would probably need some help, well I’m older so you know LOL
So my bug is a 62 stale air shroud. It used the venturi ring style, so I have no holes for the flaps. I found some measurements posted online, but they seemed off. Is there any way you could measure where to drill the holes for the flaps?
Looking at the linkage of the cooling flaps, they have a short linkage on both sides, to wich the large connecting bar attaches.. Do you know where one could purchase those short linkages ?
Had no idea that was a fan shroud lol I thought that was what was covering the flywheel and the beginning of transmission lol. I also had no idea these had a thermostat lol I’m learning a lot. Thanks Slades
You’re very welcome Blake. Always remember we have to start somewhere. And I myself, I’m not what you referred to as an expert. I just messed around with them for a while. I still do stupid things though. 😁
@@SladesVWBeetle well like they say you learn something new everyday that was my lesson for the day lol. I don’t think we will ever know everything about our beetles seems they are always mysterious 😂
I think they’re such a unique car. Very well thought out. I got my first one when I was 16 years old, so 40 years later and I’m still playing around with them. I truly have a great passion for them.
@@SladesVWBeetle I agree I have a great passion too. I’ve had mine since I was 17 I think absolutely one of the most well thought simple cars of the time. It was also made in a time when cars were something that most people worked on even if they weren’t a mechanic. I’ve been teaching my 8 year old niece how to work on it she absolutely adores my beetle LOL. And she likes learning about all the tools to use as well. It’s a great experience.
I’m sorry I didn’t get notified that you responded. Now that is cute, and eight-year-old helping you. That is so awesome. And you are right, these cars were simplified just like many of the other, what we would call vintage cars now. Back in the day, people worked on their cars even if they were not a mechanic. I sure miss how things used to be that’s for sure. As I get older, I think it gets harder mentally. I want to go back to the 70s and be a kid again. That’s awesome that you owned yours for so long!
@@Its_about_that_time If you have a dog house without ducts for the heater hoses that go to the muffler, it shouldn’t be making it run hot. There’s another issue somewhere.
Looks like you put the washers on the wrong side of the thermostat linkage. I prefer to put the fan shroud on without the generator/alternator on. Easy to fine tune the shroud in place.
When I removed the linkage, I noticed the washers were on the outside. So I did put them back on the same way. Wasn’t sure if it would hurt anything or not. Seems to be working OK though, hopefully it stays that way. It sure would’ve been easier to put back on without the alternator, because it is very heavy when you’re trying to fish that little rod down through the head.
I think someone messed with these before. I’ll look at my extra motor and see the set up on that too. I seldom ever had to mess with the linkage. Thanks for pointing it out!!!
I'm new being an subscriber but I'm so glad i don't have to listen to loud background music great educational video
Thank you very much Dean, and welcome aboard. And also thank you for taking the time to comment. I just keep it plain and simple, and I try to keep the videos as short as I possibly can and without leaving anything out
Thank you for being the only video that full shows whats happening and how to get everything together! Appreciate you helping me save time for a 79 beetle
Thank you very much for the kind comment. I truly appreciate that. That was an older video. I was still getting used to filming. I’ll actually be redoing that in the next coming weeks with a little better photography lol thank you for being here.
It's inspiring to see your "every man" approach, and that assembly doesn't always go perfect (edited out) as well as what to watch for and being patient. The close ups and explanations go a long way as well. Explaining why the cooling, aka temperature regulating flaps, needs to be there. This was my first time seeing how the tin and thermostat is mounted. Your shooting style shows it in a way where even a novice like me gets it. Thanks 👍
I'm 63 and going to be a new Bug Dad, we are expecting a 1972 Super. These videos are the most helpful I have yet to view. Please continue with sharing your experiences as you do. You remind me of my shop teacher of the high school years where views and explanations are totally clear. Thank You.
Thank you!! Congrats on your upcoming addition!! They’re great cars!! Feel free to send photos to my email when you get it!!
A suggestion for when filming freehand; make sure you have digital stabilization enabled.
Thanks for the videos!
Thank you for the suggestion. Honestly this was an older video. I still had a lot to learn them. Was so new to it..Thanks for commenting.
You have the most educational videos this is really helpful. What’s really good is I honestly don’t know a lot about be vw motors.so I feel like you are actually teaching me which is awesome .I bet a lot of people feel that way.👍
Thank you so much brother, and your channel is growing quickly, because of your personality and knowledge. I truly appreciate the nice comment.
This was extremely helpful for me! Thank you! Subscribed.
Thank you!
I've just rebuilt the engine for my 72 Karmann Ghia.
The original thermostat failed and the new style replacement required a fair few tweaks to get it to work properly.
Now that I have sourced oem replacements for most of the chromed junk it's almost ready for the first start.
That’s good news, you’re almost ready to start it up. That’s excellent!
Yeah some of these aftermarket parts, and the Chrome crap is complete garbage. Awesome powder coat sells pretty nice thermostats but they’re not very cheap.
The best thing you can do for a VW air cooled engine! I think that just a little percentage of them still have it properly installed and working!! Very good job!!
That’s so true!! It really keeps things functional and working properly! Thank you for taking the time to comment!!
Hey friend,
I am always amazed by your knowledge!
Thank you my friend, I don’t know everything, sometimes I learn as I go along.
@@SladesVWBeetle hey
Life is a work in progress, we learn as we go! When you stop learning you stop growing, y’all be well!
Hello, Slade. Great video. I noticed that you’re missing the weatherstrip between the fan shroud and the doghouse tin (the upper tin). This weatherstrip is just regular sponge-type weatherstrip, and it keeps the hot air that passes through the oil cooler from leaking out the upper dog house tin before the air passes to the lower chute tin. You’ll see which tin I’m talking about. It’s the second (upper one) that you installed. The lowerchute tin obviously has a rubber seal already attached.
Just use regular weatherstrip for this upper chute seal, by the way. It’s the kind that you used to seal the periphery of your oil cooler. Using this seal insures that all the hot air escapes only through the lower opening of the lower doghouse chute tin.
P.s. it’s also important that the thermostat rod passes through the head hole that is closest to the crank. There are two holes in the head that the rod may pass through. The outer head hole-nearest the heat exchangers-is not the correct one. If the rod is in that one, the rod will gang up.
Hey my friend, actually I did seal that off. I use some 3M strip that I had on hand.
After the video I was sitting on my stool staring at it, and realized I wasn’t happy with the gap being there.
Yes I put it through the hole closest to the crankshaft. It almost looks like it has a little tin plate down inside with a hole.
Yea, that little tin plate is very important, there is one for each bottom of each head. The one on the right is slotted to allow for the thermostat rod. These plates force the cooling air around the head fins in a better manner. I mentioned the hole nearest the crank because it’s possible to thread the thermostat rod into the other head hole, even with that little slotted tin in the way. I once put the thermostat rod in the wrong hole, and the rod kept getting hung up to the point that the flaps wouldn’t open properly.
I also had to replace the right thermostat flap arrangement because the “C” flange (where the top of the thermostat rod fits into) was stretched a little (it doesn’t take much to make it wonky, if someone pulls up hard on the shroud when removing the shroud). Once this “C” flange is stretched out, your thermostat won’t open and close to the correct range,
Very nice!!! I love engine building.
Thanks very much!
Your videos are absolutely great and if I decide to buy an old 60:s Beetle for restoration someday it’s because of you!
Thanks Adam, thanks for taking time to comment!! They’re quite the unique car, and very simple to work on
Another great video from spades studios lols
Thanks Jamie!!!
I didn’t know, and not sure if it makes sense to me or not, 😂! That’s a think clip.Great work, keep it up, stay safe!
Thanks my friend, and I hope you’re staying safe, and healthy!
I appreciate your many videos! I currently have my 73 beetle engine on my stand and I have been using your guidance on the whole process. I need to install the bottom tins (that were not with the car at purchase). I see I have to remove the heater boxes and exhaust to install them. While working on cleaning up the motor, I noticed the bolt is missing that connects the thermostat to the bracket. My question is, can I purchase some bolts for this and I assume the bolts are the same as on the bracket and other points on the motor. I do have a pack of screws for the tins. Thank you!
Great video, thanks for sharing
Hello brother. Looking good. It helps a lot to have an extra set of hand to install the fan shroud, to make sure that rod doesn’t bent. Lol... I have made that mistake before, where I got caught myself doing other things, and forgot to install that tiny bolt. Specially when you are doing the camera recording by yourself. Nice video as always.
Thanks brother, and I hope that you’re doing well. Yeah you have to be careful not to bend that rod, some folks put the alternator in the fan shroud last. To make it easier to maneuver. My hands are on the larger side, and unfortunately it does become a pain in the butt.
Vert good! Here in Brazil I haven't ever seen a thermostat installed. I've had seven cars with this motor. Do you think issues unnecessary here in Brazil? Thank you very much.
I do prefer to run them honestly!
Hello Slade. I would never say you are wrong but I would say you may have a different interpretation of things than I do. I am referring specifically to the spring loaded operation of your blower housing flappers. In your video, and maybe indeed on your particular car, you demonstrate the flappers being open as you pull AGAINST the spring tension and being closed when the the spring is is in the home position. ( initial installation position)
In your demonstration you explain your flaps default to the closed position and open against the spring tension. I think you have gotten things backward a bit. Your flaps should default to the open position, that is if the thermostat linkage is not connected the flaps should be open. The system must default to full air flow situation upon failure of the thermostat, so the flaps must be open at all times.
So what closes the flaps? Upon initial installation of the thermostat and linkage you are preloading the the flapper system closed against the spring tension and forcing the flaps to close. As the bellows heats up it expands and relaxes under the preload of the return spring which is trying desperately to default to the open position. It took quite a while to figure this out.
The bellows does not expand to close the flaps, it expands to ALLOW the flaps to open. So when the bellows fails it will always fail in the flaps open position because the return spring is acting on the flaps. If this makes sense cool, if doesn't that's cool too. If you want to delete this post that's cool too. at least you did he work of making the vid and posting it. Thanks man.
The first sentence you said relating to the open position of the mechanism was correct.
Of course I won’t delete the message! I appreciate your input and you taking the time to comment with a great explanation!
I did explain the reverse of the operation as to the way it functions!
I thought I followed up with correction, I may not of.
What you stated is exactly accurate, and I truly appreciate that!! Without the stat connected the flaps are in open position. With the stat pulling them closed. Then if the stat fails, it expands with the flaps in the open position.
Good Video sir. Thanks for the knowledge. I use dow corning high vacuum silicone grease on alot of static parts and it is great on brake systems because it won't destroy EPDM rubber parts. Keep up allowing us to benefit from your knowledge!!!!!
Thank you so much for the tip! I will have to look that up. I never heard of that grease before. But I’m always up for using new things. Thanks so much for being here I truly appreciate it.
Thanks, learnt heaps.
Thanks Paul, and thanks so much for being here
Very nice video. I have a 1967 vw bus and getting ready to replace the alternator. Is it posible to remove the four studs on the alternator bracket so i wouldn"t have to loosen the dog house and be able to pull the altenator straight back. I would put bolts back in for future changes. Thanks again
I have done a lot of the stuff while they are in the vehicle. It’s not very much fun that’s for sure. You can get to everything you need to, but you’ll end up swearing a lot. 😁
@@SladesVWBeetle I believe I will remove the motor to make life easy. I do have a nice shop with a lift. Should make it easy.
The duct work on the back of the shroud (drivers side back) fits really loose with big air gaps. Should you use silicon, rtv or something to fill the gaps?
"Within 6 to 24 hours".. Lol. Good vid as always.
Right?!?!? I have no idea why I even said something so stupid. 🙄 But I seldom edit anything out it’s real time. Thanks so much for being here and thank you for the compliment.
Great video Thanks
Thanks very much! And thanks for being here.
Great info, my car is missing the thermostat system entirely, I found a guy with the parts, so that will be a winter project. My car has dual carbs, I presume those will need to come off to get the engine out? It will also be a good time to make sure none of the shrouding and seals are missing on my car.
There you go, take your time over the winter and do it properly. If you need anything just give a yell!
I have a couple of videos on the thermostat. Of course there will be more over the winter since I will be doing another engine.
With dual carburetors, that is the only downfall they will have to be removed to pull the engine.
That’s why I’m going to do a removable apron when I install this one. I’ll be installing those large dual carburetors that I had gotten recently.
So close to being complete, just in time for Christmas.
I’m getting there, there’s always going to be more to do later on, but then I will have the 68 inside.
Does the spring keep the flaps open,
So it pulling the flaps open, you have describe it the other way round or am I I'm correct.?
out of curiosity ..how much does that engine weigh ready for "drop in" because living in an NYC apartment with no garage, i figured i might buy one and rebuild as you have here and then take it with me when i find a shell to drop into.
Typically depending on what you have on them, if you have the heater boxes on with the exhaust system. Anywhere from 200-250 pound. You would probably need some help, well I’m older so you know LOL
Think I’d try to mount the alternator/fan after tin is in place
So my bug is a 62 stale air shroud. It used the venturi ring style, so I have no holes for the flaps. I found some measurements posted online, but they seemed off. Is there any way you could measure where to drill the holes for the flaps?
Looking at the linkage of the cooling flaps, they have a short linkage on both sides, to wich the large connecting bar attaches.. Do you know where one could purchase those short linkages ?
I will check the samba classifieds to be honest with you. There’s quite a few original German parts on there.
On 73 beetle shroud can you leave the thermostat off and keep vent open always
Is this possible to install if I take off the fan shroud while I leave the engine inside the car?
Yes you can actually do that, it is much more difficult, but it can be done
Had no idea that was a fan shroud lol I thought that was what was covering the flywheel and the beginning of transmission lol. I also had no idea these had a thermostat lol I’m learning a lot. Thanks Slades
You’re very welcome Blake. Always remember we have to start somewhere. And I myself, I’m not what you referred to as an expert. I just messed around with them for a while. I still do stupid things though. 😁
@@SladesVWBeetle well like they say you learn something new everyday that was my lesson for the day lol. I don’t think we will ever know everything about our beetles seems they are always mysterious 😂
I think they’re such a unique car. Very well thought out. I got my first one when I was 16 years old, so 40 years later and I’m still playing around with them. I truly have a great passion for them.
@@SladesVWBeetle I agree I have a great passion too. I’ve had mine since I was 17 I think absolutely one of the most well thought simple cars of the time. It was also made in a time when cars were something that most people worked on even if they weren’t a mechanic. I’ve been teaching my 8 year old niece how to work on it she absolutely adores my beetle LOL. And she likes learning about all the tools to use as well. It’s a great experience.
I’m sorry I didn’t get notified that you responded. Now that is cute, and eight-year-old helping you. That is so awesome. And you are right, these cars were simplified just like many of the other, what we would call vintage cars now.
Back in the day, people worked on their cars even if they were not a mechanic. I sure miss how things used to be that’s for sure. As I get older, I think it gets harder mentally. I want to go back to the 70s and be a kid again. That’s awesome that you owned yours for so long!
I have a non dog house fan shroud. How does mine direct air out. My engine is getting really hot after installing a new fan shroud.
Do you mean you don’t have the ducts for the air flow to the heater boxes?
@@SladesVWBeetle yes. My oil cooler fits inside the fan shroud
@@Its_about_that_time If you have a dog house without ducts for the heater hoses that go to the muffler, it shouldn’t be making it run hot. There’s another issue somewhere.
Wow I’d hate to do that “in the car”
What size are the two bolts on the sides
Do you mean that hold the fan shroud down? They’re 10mm head if that’s the ones you mean.
Yes thank you
Looks like you put the washers on the wrong side of the thermostat linkage. I prefer to put the fan shroud on without the generator/alternator on. Easy to fine tune the shroud in place.
When I removed the linkage, I noticed the washers were on the outside. So I did put them back on the same way. Wasn’t sure if it would hurt anything or not. Seems to be working OK though, hopefully it stays that way. It sure would’ve been easier to put back on without the alternator, because it is very heavy when you’re trying to fish that little rod down through the head.
@@SladesVWBeetle
Okay, the inside washers are missing. The inside washers are different also.
I think someone messed with these before. I’ll look at my extra motor and see the set up on that too. I seldom ever had to mess with the linkage. Thanks for pointing it out!!!