Everything You Need To Know About Tappets | Workshop Diaries | Edd China
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- Опубліковано 6 жов 2024
- If you haven't set your tappets correctly your engine might be losing loads of power. My mission is to fix what is causing the pithy problem of a flat-spot.
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China relishes the upcoming project, which invites viewers into his personal workshop facility in Buckinghamshire.
“I’m really excited to finally be able to bring this project to our fans as it is something they repeatedly have been asking for,” said China. “Workshop Diaries will let viewers really get stuck into the project and the detail of the fixes, and also provide a platform for instant feedback and interaction. It’s an exciting prospect and it’s great to finally get going!”
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Now these comments below are proof that sites like Edd's are what UA-cam is all about. Helping other people and sharing problems and solutions.
Thank you everyone. But mainly, thank you Edd and Paul.
7:11 I just can't get over the ease in which Edd explains all this for laymen very complex stuff to the extend I actually understand what the challenge is and I can follow along his analysis and solution finding. that is of course why we all tune in when he starts talking. It is so tranquil yet mind boggling stuff and it is a great place to be at, Edd China's cul-de-sac of hard core repair presented as a lovely afternoon tea!
So many jobs for “another day”. That means you and Paul will be with us for a long time I hope🤞🏻. Keep up the good work👍🏻
I don't think I would take my car to Ed for a service, it would take him weeks!
@@Phiyedough Have you changed the oil? That's a job for another day. Three months later with everything else half finished, today we will change the oil.
A joy to watch. Valve clearances and timing have probably never been so well filmed and explained.
I like that you added the electric option to the boat. Clever choice that preserved the boats original parts and just added functionality.
Always a great Friday when Edd China uploads a new UA-cam episode of Workshop Diaries.
Black brake fluid is almost always NOT burnt brake fluid, brake fluid is very hard to burn when under pressure (very little oxygen present in the brake lines, so no oxidation). Black brake fluid is caused by worn rubber brake parts shedding rubber particles into the fluid during use. If enough particles get into the fluid, it makes the fluid look black. Usually this is most often caused by the master cylinder o-rings that are old, or in caliper or wheel cylinder parts that are old. In the master cylinder, the piston moves o-rings through a bore with ports in it, which usually shears off many small portions of the old brittle o-ring which eventually causes the fluid to look black. The 2007 Cayman owner should replace all the rubber parts of the brake system, including the master cylinder but especially including the brake hoses. If the rubber is old enough to shed particles that quickly, the brake hoses are old enough to swell under hard use potentially causing a brake failure and/or brake fade. Old brake hoses can also cause a condition that makes them swell shut inside but look OK on the outside. They will operate under pressure from the master cylinder, but as soon as pressure is let off the hoses swell shut, locking up the caliper.
I had a little Aprilia RS125 in around 2006. It had a single 320mm brake disc up front. There’s a nice big hill between the border or Devon and Cornwall in a town called Gunnislake and me being the young dare devil I was, would go as fast as my little Aprilia would let me.
Going fast wasn’t the problem however, it was stopping. By the time I’d slowed the bike down for the corner at the bottom of the hi, I’d lose my brake lever completely and the fluid would turn black.
Give the brakes 5 minutes to cool down and stop smoking, and I had a lever again. However the brakes would fade much more quickly and needed new fluid.
Now the bike was new, so it wasn’t old seals, so from my experience I’d say that over zealous driving leading to extreme brake fade could indeed turn brake fluid black.
And on that note, Ed: Pop some brake fluid in a beaker and heat it up past it’s boiling point, I’m genuinely interested!!
I had a similar problem many years ago. Mk 2 Jag with servo brakes as standard. Brakes were a nightmare and very heavy now and again. It turned out (finally we found the solution) that inside of the servo rubber hose it was starting to shred and breakdown, it was acting like a valve! Fitted a new hose and the breaks were like new. Simple, once you have found the solution!!!
quote:..They will operate under pressure from the master cylinder, but as soon as pressure is let off the hoses swell shut, locking up the caliper.....
yes that can often be the problem but not many DIY mechanics are realizing what the problem is.... on one of my first cars ( Saab 99GL ) I replaced front calipers before realizing what is going on.... rubber hoses on front brakes swollen inside and acting as one-way brake valves......
My first thought was the master cylinder, as you say with the fluid turning black very quickly🤔 that would take a lot of heat, and with the brake fade happening quickly would point more towards the cylinder seals being worn
I just went thru all that with my 2003 Yamaha Road star motorcycle. I eliminated everything else before rebuilding the CV carb. It was hard to start and even after it warmed up had a flat spot on accelerating. Completely rebuilt the carb including a new throttle position sensor (TPS) fixed the problem. Starts easy, no flat spots and gets much better milage.
18yrs on austin rover stuff, couple of tips. - use rule of 9, more accurate/quicker than tdc
- "glue" gasket to rocker cover at start of job, will be set by re-assembly time, no more air leaks off wandering gaskets [15:00] - flat spots on pull-away can be "fixed" by using gearbox oil in the dashpot, it prevents sudden opening of the slide, therefore acts like an accelerator jet on pull-away. i expect lots of hate on this last one, but it works a treat, lots of satisfied main dealer customers [covert fix]
regarding the porsche brakes, slightly binding calipers is usually the cause of fade on 99% of all cases, regardless of the vehicle. not only do the calipers themselves cause this, partial internal collapse of flexi hoses is quite common, acts as one-way-valve, + slowly applies brakes, + finally, the old favourite, the brake light switch adjusted too tight.... keep up the good work young man.
Yep, I’ve had brake hoses causing “stuck” calipers on a couple of cars in the past. The first time it happened I replaced the caliper, but the problem remained. Was getting ready to fire the parts cannon, then a friend suggested the problem might be the hose to the caliper. Took the hose off and couldn’t blow thru it. New hose and good to go…
And yes, SU carbs can be tweaked slightly by playing with different weight oils in the dash pot. I had to do that with the twin HS2’s on my Spitfire.
@@notajp there was eventually an official "fix", a new brass barrel on the rod, which was slightly longer + wider, did the same job as the heavy oil, but lasted longer. this was in the 90s, when emissions were tightened up, so everything was tuned to run weaker, to get past regs, then left to the mechanics on how to get them running properly again. fuel injection came along a few yrs later, big change for us older lads, but solved 99% of running issues of the cars at the time. i work on euro 6 [emmision] cars now, tools rarely touch a car, laptop [internet] updates every week to keep them running, don't think barnfinds in the 2040s will be possible.....
No matter what Edd is working on I find it interesting and very informative.
Hi Ed
First thing to check with symptoms like that is the oil in the damper of the carburettor. Other than that, almost nothing ever goes wrong with SU (Skinner Union) carburettors.
First thing defo
Always nice to see another episode in this summer hot afternoon here in Spain. Closed windows to avoid over heating, and pressing "Play" right now :)
Yes! Friday Edd!
Adam Boden's brakes: Get an IR temperature meter, the type with the laser pointer, and start measuring temperatures. Another option would be a thermal camera, which would make things too easy. He might find one or more corners are hotter in a non -symmetrical manner indicating that something is dragging, perhaps due to a stuck or sticky caliper. That drag might add enough heat to cause the sort of issues he's seeing. If it's a temperature issue (which it is), then make the temperature visible; stop guessing. When you have an invisible parameter, make it visible!! Once you're no longer blind, then you can see the problem directly. This advice applies everywhere.
On my old mini 850 my first port of call was to top up the oil in the SU dashpot as this is a classic symptom of poor acceleration. Keep up the good work!
Exactly. I was shouting the same. Fits the symptom of poor acceleration and stalling.
Love the Outspan Orange! Such a cool little car. Hope we get to see it more often!
That tomos was great, very cool that you featured it! My scooter is now 30 years old! And would be great to see you guys tinkering with something similar
The Mini engine must be one of the best engines to learn to do a tune-up on. Very satisfying. Sounds great when everything is just right.
It’s a mini engine. It’s the rule of 9. When 1 is open you adjust 8. When 2 is open you adjust 7 and so on. Profile of the single cam can mean at tdc you are on the ramp of the cam lobe.
Same here rule of 9 is what Ive always used, eg watch the spring on No 1 valve when fully compressed adjust the clearance on valve No 8, If No 2 valve spring is compressed adjust No 7..just make sure the one that is compressed and one that want adjusting add up to 9 :)
same rules but of 13 applies with the 'C' Series engine
If I remember that was the sequence for most British engines of the time
A great resource on the subject is John Twist. Specifically: ua-cam.com/video/G4xsp9HAmAw/v-deo.html he explains a quicker method rather than adjusting the "opposite" valve at exactly TDC.
What's he doing rule of 9 is the only way,no wonder it's running 💩
I've been driving my Triumphs for life. Same valve set up, The monthly gap check has probably saved me ??? litres of fuel, it's the audio trick of a true mechanic.
I modified old sparkplugs to hold a dail indicator so i can check TDC. A simpel indicator with extension rods is what i use. I removed the porcelain and fitted a piece rubber hose in it so it wil hold the indicator. I have multiple engines what needs regularly valve adjustments. I have different sizes sparkplugs modified for the different engines.
Great idea and rather more accurate
@@eddchina talking about the porcelain being removed from a spark plug, I knew someone who did the same but connected the hose to a paint spray gun and run the engine to to provide pressure to the gun to spray the car he was working on, brilliant idea 🤔😉😁
You could use adaptors from compression tester
Thank you so much for the way you film and explain the problem and solution it helps this novice alot
When the valve has too much clearance and starts rattling, it won't just be noisy but also start mushrooming the valve and pushrod, possibly wearing the cam out faster.
There's quite a lot of force going through those rockers and if the gap is too large, it won't push on the valve, but slap it. Like hitting a steel rod with a hammer over and over, it will deform it, worsening the problem as the gap gets larger.
Checking and setting the proper clearance is free, rebuilding the valve train isn't.
Ah the good old days. I had a 78 Cortina and used to love doing my own services and repairs- Timing, plugs, oil changes etc. Now I open the bonnet on my 21 Mazda 6 look in the engine bay and close the bonnet.
Thanks for this episode! I'm watching with interest because I'm doing the same sort of troubleshooting on my 1969 VW Beetle.
When both valves lose clearance at the same time, that usually means the seats in the heads are receding... does the orange have hardened valve seats? Or do you use a lead substitute in the fuel?
Rule of nine is a good tip on these engines to ensure the valve is closed and the cam is not interfering with the clearance, also, no mention as to a cause of multiple valves losing clearance, such as valve seat regression. There may be more to this than meets the eye.
Valve seat replacement
I was on the road with a E-250 Ford panel truck with a 351 V8 and it started losing power. This was in the middle of the night between gigs (traveling with a band at the time) and we had to make the next town. Of course, it was rainy and about 27 (-3C) so we found an awning at a closed business so I could work getting soaked.
I ruled out oil issues, air filter and fuel supply issues. Then proceeded to check for missing cylinders by removing plug wires at idle and listening for a change. Turns out I had three cylinders that were not firing, all on the same side of the engine.
Thanks to my dad, who was a mechanic, giving me a KV tester that Christmas I was able to determine that the issue was not in the spark distribution and when I pulled those plugs, they looked good.
Next, I pulled the valve cover and discovered the issue. The rockers on each of the dead cylinders were way too tight, even for hydraulic lifters. I loosened the rocker nuts and found that the exhaust valves on the dead cylinders were about slightly higher than the intake. This indicated to me that the valve seats were sinking leaving the exhaust valves constantly open. Thankfully I had a few nuts in my kit that were the right thread to double nut the rocker studs, so I gapped the failing valves to match the resting gap on the working cylinders and managed to get all three cylinders back up and running. Granted I had to readjust these valves twice more to get us home but it worked.
I never did find out why that head failed like that but I am so glad for what my father taught me about cars and how many times it has gotten me out of tough spots. Thanks Dad!
If you do all the tune up items, how will you know which repair fixed the flat spot problem? Do a test drive after each specific repair to see the results of that repair.
As Edd has had that thing apart numerous times he’ll know whether it’s a better use of his time to bugger about with individual items or do all the work.
I reckon we can rest assured he knows what he’s doing.
This is what we (alright "I") want to see!
A proper mechanical engineering problem that isn't fixed by messing with a computer!
I loved my old Mini.
28:16 Edd didn't mention a crucial part of the question: "Or even the best method for bleeding with a clutch that runs off the brake fluid reservoir?"
This is likely the culprit as it shares fluid with the brakes apparently. The clutch holds decent volume and will cycle through on a track. The old fluid contaminates the new fluid and it cooks right away. The entire system, including the clutch, need to be flushed and bled using the Porsche system Edd mentoned. It cycles the ABS, which otherwise will trap a lot of fluid. If the ABS itself had an issue, it would most likely show on the dash.
All done properly Edd, when I checked them in preparation for the new Outspan season - if they did 70 all was well! My God that was 50 years ago....
Always loved watching you Edd, keep things interesting for us all :)
Looks like you have a good example of valve seat recession , allowing the valve to go deeper into the seat and hence closing the tappet clearance .
Would the age mean it should have leaded petrol, lead replacement or hardened valve seats?
Thanks Edd (and Paul)....don't leave it so long next time ...was getting withdrawal symptoms. Keep up the good work!
My first job was on the yts in a British Leyland garage and it was standard practice to adjust valve clearances while the engine was running. Have a go Edd, it's fun
Did they make you go to the stores and ask for a long weight or for sky hooks, stripy paint etc, etc?!
@@eddchina they tried 😂 too wise for that but couldn't get out of being dumped in the puncture pool though.
First time I ever heard of tappets was on a very old edition of Wheeler Dealers......just some show I put on while flicking through the channels. I had no real interest in cars - was more into techie stuff. But that early WD made me an Edd fan. From rewatching the old shows I can diagnose problems in "classic" Sierras, Golfs etc but if I was actually asked to fix them :D :D
Think I'll stick to the day job in IT and stay an armchair car/Edd fan lol
I have not had luck with the "marine" solder/shrink tubes. With age they tent to crack. My preferred method to wire connecting is to solder, then apply some liquid electrical tape followed by regular heat shrink. I have used the shrink tube with adhesive, but again I have seen it fail too if there is any stress on the wire. The liquid tape/heat shrink method has never been an issue and insures a waterproof and somewhat flexible connection.
I learned a lot with this your video, Mr. Edd. Thank you very much for it!
Always happy to see you driving the Orange !
Personally, I would have gapped and reinstalled the spark plugs BEFORE scraping off the valve cover gasket, to help prevent anything from bits and pieces from the gasket (or dirt) from falling into the cylinders.
Also...I would have used the engine's timing marks to find TDC, and used the other methods (especially the "screwdriver down the cylinder" method) as a last resort.
Edd, love your video's. you have helped in some of my diagnosis of my vehicle, I appreciate your help and want to thank you. keep up the good work you do.
When I heard your description of what the Mini is doing. I would consider also checking the automatic clutch for wear. It seems that the clutch isn't closing properly and though you're not getting all power to the wheels.
I'd be really interested in hearing some more detail on your father's contribution to the Ariel 3 satellite project.
Valve clearances don't necessarily close up as the engine get to working temperature, it's very dependent on the different materials used in the engine. Jowett flat fours for example have the clearances set to zero when cold (pushrod just spins freely). My Moto Morini motorcycles use a very small 0.1mm (4 thou) gap and people often set them too wide as "everybody knows" that gap reduces when hot and that gap must be too little. In fact, the clearance when hot is almost unchaged (I know, I've done the measurements to prove it). If anything, it get slightly bigger.
As much as anything, the correct clearance is what matches the design of the "quieting ramps" that the cam designer used.
5:16 - this is the first time I found out EXACTLY why there needs to be gaps.
And you explained it (as usual) VERY clearly.
Thank you!
☮
I had exactly the same experience!
@@jwvandegronden 👍
☮
Hey Edd, it's great to have you in another video! That's all you need!
Thanks guys! Glad to have you back!
I was able to tell a friend why you were in with the Mini's. I felt a right know all.😁
……great informative video Edd 👍🏻 Took me right back to when myself & my best mate used to dabble ‘under the bonnet’ with monotonous regularity back in the early 80s ❤️🙏🏻
Hi Ed on old mini's the tappets were set using the rule of 9 where the valve you were adjusting wa when valve (9 - your valve) was rocking. For example adjust valve 1 with 8 fully open; adjust 2 with 7 open and so on.
Alas I remember the joys of adjusting the valve clearances on the old A series engines, tighten the nut & the clearance would change. Frustrating when I was 17 & trying to wring every ounce of HP from my mini Ferrari, even making the clearances too tight in the mistaken belief it would act as a poor mans high lift cam!! Lol 👍
A lovely simple engine, I miss these toys.
Lovely orange car! Show...Great job, man...
Another nice and cozy episode! Just like good old times :) Greetings from Ukraine!
The brake fluid cooking could also be due to pad compound type. Some compounds are great on the street but easily overheated in the track causing the fluid to get cooked.
Brilliant video thank you Edd and Paul
That's a very convoluted way to check valve clearances. Much easier to use the rule of 9. When number 8 valve is fully open open adjust number 1. Tight valve clearances are usually an indication of the valve seat wearing. Another good reason to check them regularly.
Terrible looking inlet manifold, the manifold from a Maestro 1300 would be an improvement.
Best to glue the rocker cover casket to the cover with a light coating of contact adhesive.
Black brake fluid problem sounds more like the flexible lines are failing and not only contaminating the fluid but swelling when the are used hard.
Well- I seem to have missed loads of episodes- even though I am subscribed and the bell is rung- SO that means Binge watching the best mechanic on the net tomorrow as it is going to be too hot to mow the lawn( Damn good excuse-hehehe)
I always enjoy reading through the comments. Everyone has a “better this way or that” comment. Sometimes they do and sometimes they don’t have better suggestions. Anyway, it’s very entertaining. I maybe getting a 1998 Chevrolet Z71 long bed. From what I understand, it needs oil system work. It has no rust, dings, or scrapes. Only downside is the fuel bill.
You guys should have a scooter contest on building or fixing a scooter.
Another epic episode! Good to see you again, Edd. :-)
Love the show. I expect you to do this more offen. From argentina. Thank you very much
I've been a fan since day one. ..and always. ....
Absolutely brilliant job as always Edd
The Ariel was a blast from the past; my first motorised vehicle. I believe they were designed to meet a Post Office requirement for a delivery vehicle contract they didn't get. That killed BSA.
The box at the rear was meant to remain horizontal, (with a box of mail on top), while the steering column and seat were hinged to it with a torsion bar mechanism to keep it upright. Vibration tended to loosen the mixture screw. Once, I failed to check it properly, it backed out completely, and to get home I whittled a twig to jam into the orifice. It worked, just, suggesting that stoichiometric ratio wasn't critical.
On the Clockwork Orange, the lack of clearances is curious. Clearances opening up due to wear is to expected, given sufficient mileage, but things don't usually tighten themselves spontaneously. What was the previous maintainer thinking? Are you going to do an intermediate test drive, to see what effect, if any, the correct clearances had?
If, for any reason, there's not going to be a video for the week, could we have at least a place-holder notice, so we don't waste all Friday afternoon searching for a fix? Notice would be nice.
RE: the brake fluid cooking problem. I'd also be curious about the internal state of the actual lines. If they check the color of the fluid after each session does the color change from fine to dark directly that may indicate black particles in the fluid.
Great vid and the Ed & Paul show is a Hoot. Carry on.
Too bad you didn't have a "Gunson EZ-Just", Edd. Would have literally made it an 8.5 mibnute job. Just set TDC, follow the suggested adjusting order in the "Haynes", turn the tool one click per .001" of the valve clearances. I loved using that tool along with a "Color-Tune" to fine tune my B-series engines. Worked great on other Brit cars also. Perhaps you could do a video using the old Gunson tools showing the way we modern shade tree mechanics used their tools while working on our cars.
My ears sprang up when you mentioned motorcycles, If your interested I have a 1941 Harley 1200cc flathead that needs some work. Basically I stripped it down for a rebuild, painted the frame and had all the tin work painted. I started rebuilding the bike and lost interest then several months later realised why - I didn't like the new colour - so it's sitting there waiting for me to decide a new colour but in bits. I believe this would be a good project for you it has a foot clutch, hand gear change, twin fuel tanks, rod brakes but when running a really sweet ride 🙂
Nice one Edd! And good to see the Orange out and about again! :-)
Well Edd I had to pull up your fact sheet. Your wife must be very cool. She just looks a great person. Cheers !!
Valve timing is not the same as valve clearance. Unless there is some problem with the timing chain the valve timing is unlikely to go out of spec.
If the valve clearance is too great the valve timing will be affected, both valve lift and duration are affected by excessive valve clearance
Just a suggestion here. If I was doing a restore job on a unique car like that I would put it on a two or four gas analyzer first because of the small space you have to chase down all the possible vacuum leaks.
I've always adjusted the exhaust to 15thou on an A series - inlet at 12thou. Exhaust runs hotter and for long hills etc just avoids any chance of expansion and contact/bent valves.
Also I'd use the rule of 9 and turn the engine over on the crankshaft starting handle dog.
Did all minis have starting handle dog?
It was better to put spark-plugs back before replacing the gasket to avoid some stuff dropping into cylinder.
Sounds like a top tip to me!
And also clean the spark plugs before you check the gap.....soot and
and dirt can give an incorrect gap.
Mr. Edd China! You are the best mechanic!
About the guy with the brake issues on the Porsche. Don't use any type of silicone brake fluid. We tried it on our 360 sprint car, and it just didn't stop well. Come to find out that it's really made for collector-type cars that aren't driven a lot. Silicone is not hydroscopic, so leaving the car sitting for long periods won't absorb moisture. We ended -up with high quality (aka race) quality DOT 4 brake fluid and have had great brakes ever since. We use Wilwood 570 fluid.
BMW 1200 GS would be a good size even for Edd, with risers for the handlebars and maybe aftermarket foot pegs.
No one uses jazz music on UA-cam car stuff. I applaud you.
Hi Ed, the fuel filter you are using are prone to leaking and catching fire. Just letting you know about my experience with them.
You’re the second person to mention that on this video!
I came here to mention that also.
@@eddchina I guess we have a top tip for the next video :-).
I second that!
I was going to say the same. I'll never have one.
You should bid on the ‘Aerial 3 trike ‘ ED …..its so awful its fantastic ! What were BSA thinking 🧐
Good to see Paul....
I was always taught to do the IE1, E2, I3 for 1tdc, turn to 4 tdc and do opposite.. saves time.....That obviously depends on 1342, or 1243 firing order too... Interestingly enough, the manual for my 750/4 Honda actually stated that for clearance checking....
There's 2 TDC's, you only set the valve clearances on 1 of those strokes.
If you rotate the engine to TDC and feel no play, you're probably on the wrong stroke - of course, they could be massively out of adjustment, but that's unlikely.
You'll be pleased to know that the mother found the Outspan Orange hilarious on the parade, had to explain who this "Edd China" fella was to her despite her having suffered my watching many episodes of Wheeler Dealers in the past... :P
Good to know HRH liked the car and also that Prince Charles is subscribed to the channel 😀
Don’t confuse Top Dead Center on the exhaust stroke vs Top Dead Center on the compression stroke.
It's been a REALLY long time since I owned a vehicle that I had to manually set valve lash...
Though I want to build a diesel for my Overlander...probably have to do it again.
when i was watching the jubilee parade and saw this car i had a feeling it would be yours
Thanks, we have some footage in the next episode!
Most overlooked/neglected maintenance aspect of VTEC engines too
Yeah definitely. Had a few type R's over the years. Not sure if it improved performance but sounded better (less valve rattle) & more sweet V tec cross over!
@@spense5905 so few people know about it. I'm no expert, I got it from Scotty Kilmer. Buy a 2nd hand Honda in the UK and it almost certainly hasn't had its valve clearances done. Honda say every 5 years/60k for mine
Possible cause of the black brake fluid and brake fade after sitting and baking in the heat from running laps: It is possible the flex hoses in the bake lines are starting to degrade, contaminating the brake fluid with rubber "dust" and allowing the flex hoses to expand during braking, causing a loss of brake pressure.
For the brake fade question. I had 2010 Mazda 3 and when I changed the brake pad, all of a sudden problems arised. The brake pad has organic compound, so whenever I treated the brakes, the fadings appeared. Organic brake pads are not so great at dissipating or conducting heat, so heat occumulates in the caliper so in the brake fluid. I changed with an oem brake pads, the problem went away. If the brake pad is not oem, that can also cause the fading. Moreover, I recommend upgrading to the ceramic brake pads if the car doesnt equipped.
The Aerial 3 was named as such because BSA owned Aerial Motorcycles. The 3 is obviously for teh number of wheels. I remember seeing the odd one on the road back in the early '70s.
That makes more sense but perhaps not as wistful
@@eddchina It all comes out in the wash!
I recently did the valve settings on my Spitfire, I had to remove the rocker assembly to retightened the head and they seemed a bit tight. I don't think it took me anywhere near as long as this, including removing and refitting the rocker assembly. But then again, I wasn't making a video.
That took me back to my Mini days, nice.
Saw Ed on a CAR S.O.S re-run today
I snuck in while no-one was looking! Think I got away with it!
Would have been interesting to show us the colour of the spark plugs to get a first indication of mixture / engine condition
Ed did show us that the colour was a bit light. I presume that means due to a lean mixture.
Just as with ignition points the tappets can dish and lobe with wear. The feeler gauge can then sit on the edges of the dish and the top of the lobe, which means the true gap is larger with the feeler removed. As a matter of course on an old engine I used to measure with a gauge a couple of thou thinner. I remember a tool you could purchase that you tightened the gap to zero with when it would go click under a certain torque. Then refering to a chart that came with the tool you would loosen the screw counting the clicks the tool made to a prescribed number for that engine to set the gap correctly and then lock the nut. Worked reasonably well back like a lot of tools disappeared at that back of a shelf. Back to slighty thinner feelers.
For that reason (dishing) I used a magnet-based dial gauge to measure the rocker clearance on my old Land Rover
Woo woo Edd Friday 😌
I still have my dad's Gunsons Valve Clearance Setter (Click-Adjust), it accounts for any wear that the rocker could have, and make the job alot easier. 1 click = 1 thou if I remember?
Also, next time remember the rule of 9 (1 down, check 8. 2 down, check 7. 3 down, check 6. etc.)