Do you have an opinion on bolt on vs glued in necks? What are the pros and cons? Thank you for your videos. I have just started making instruments and I find you videos informative. I have made tons of other stuff, but guitars are complex and the details very subtle.
Your really awesome... Very good.. and really clear. Love your simple but effective methods. This was just what I needed. I got a budy that builds awesome necks but to often strange speck.. So ill get a neck from the guy... and find out my tele body jig is too small.. WHat your laying down here really helps me out.. Now I can just fit the neck in.. Awesome.
Watching all the fine detailed methods in your work, I think, is really going to give me a good head start into guitar building. It's going to take time to get into it and I am very eager. But I have no choice but to be patient.
Hi Reprisal Within, Thank you and it is good to know my videos are helping you to prepare for your first build. Good luck when the time comes to start your build.
Thanks for this excellent video, it’s going to be the second time routing the neck pocket on my first build and I’m pretty sure it’s going to be straight and tight.. thanks so much you have saved me a lot of time
I just feel like getting Steve at Maximum Guitar Works to make you a custom template set could save you so much time and allow you to further increase your ability to make more guitars without sacrificing quality!
Nice video, I've done neck through and bolt on but set neck is next. Also totally agree about it being easier to rout the pocket a bit rather than keep planing the heel, I have planed a bit to far before trying to get it perfectly level lol
Thank you very much. It will take a couple of episodes before she is finished so please keep watching these weekly videos and follow along with the entire build.
This was such a great tutorial video, thank you so much for taking the time to produce it. I think you explained and demonstrated the steps quite well. Thanks again and I subscribed
3:19 This lot of efforts may be easily workarounded with joint template that is a bit narrower than basic neck, and can be just applied to both body and neck. Additional benefit is added body material to pocket (useful for bodies that narrow near the joint), which increases joint strength.
Hi Michael, Thank you very much. I really appreciate you mentioning this. I used to be super 'aware' and 'annoyed' with my English mistakes, but these days I think to myself my English is probably better than most of my viewer's Dutch.
Get yourself a couple of squeeze clamps my friend. Your clamps are gorgeous though. I love your workmanship and builds. If I could be half as careful as you my guitars would be the better for it! :)
Hi Scott, Thank you very much. I had some squeeze clamps but they always seem to break on me. I might need to look into a better quality squeeze clamps.
@@UnquendorGuitars Yessir. I have quite a few, and honestly I got the cheap ones from a company called HARBOR FREIGHT here in the US, and they've held up pretty well. Anyway, I would never advocate buying the cheap ones, but there you are HAHA. Best wishes.
Something you might try is to make a dummy fridge out of wood and stick it to the top (masking tape/super glue). If that dummy bridge has the bridge height, string thickness and relief built into it, you don't have to keep measuring the clearance when you try the neck after each adjustment, you can just see it.
@@UnquendorGuitars Oh my pleasure, but I mustn't claim credit for the idea - it was something Ben Crowe showed me. He also showed me a technique for setting the break angle without making adjustments at the bottom of the tenon, although I think this was one of Tom's tricks. You keep the bottom of the heel parallel with the top surface and you initially size the pocket so that the bottom of the fingerboard is level with the top surface of the body. This starts you with zero break angle. Then you attach that dummy bridge in place, respecting the likely midpoint for correct intonation. Then take a long plane, rest the back on the dummy bridge and then plane away the area on the body around the pocket until the line of your cut reaches the end of the pocket. Lastly, use that new surface to rout the bottom surface of the pocket again and also the end where the neck will butt. The neck then should just slide in at the correct break angle. The big advantage of this method is that you specifically manufacture the correct break angle in and I don't see how you can "overshoot" that way. I found a video too : ua-cam.com/video/RfU5ckGt5nY/v-deo.html
@@UnquendorGuitars slowly! I keep putting off the tricky bits! I did the fret level crown and polish today so next step is the fitting of the neck to the body.
@@UnquendorGuitars thanks. Yes I'm videoing it all. It will be more of a time-lapse style this time as I wanted to concentrate more on what I was doing than videoing. If you would like to see progress taka a look at my Instagram. @johnclothieruk I post pictures there as I go along.
Zo, jou schuur is een stuk groter dan die van mij. Maar ik ben pas een beginner en pas aan mijn derde gitaar bezig. Ik ga je volgen. Groeten uit Zeeland!
Hi Leon, Bedankt voor je reactie. Mijn werkplaats lijkt groter in de filmpjes dan hij daadwerkelijk is. De schuur is een krappe 2x4m, maar net groot genoeg voorlopig. Bedankt voor het volgen en veel succes met je eigen gitaarprojecten.
What's the difference between gluing vs screwing in the neck with a neck plate? Do people prefer to use screws so they can adjust the neck later on? Does your neck have a truss rod? Also I just want to say your video is great and very helpful.
Very helpful! One question: How do you make sure that the curves on the end of the neck heel (both corners at the end) match the curves of the neck pocket? How I see it, the curves on the neck pocket come from the diameter of your router bit, but how do you make sure that the round corners on the neck heel match your template?
Hey Maurice, I know from the diameter of my router bit what radius the inner corners of the neck pocket will be so I have the same radius on the template I use the make the neck itself. If you don't have the radius on the template used to make the neck you could also use a spindel or disc sander to round over the corners on the heel.
@@UnquendorGuitars That's smart! You probably do have like a little margin for error since that part is usually covered by the neck pickup. Anyway, thanks for the advice
Hi Henry, The neck pocket depth I use is the body thickness - 10mm approximately. And I adjust the heel thickness accordingly keeping +/- 1mm play on both the pocket and the heel to make some final adjustments to get the correct string height at the bridge.
Hi Gurup, I'm not sure about your question, but if you are referring to the angle I used for this neck the answer is no. The break angle I use is less than used on a Les Paul.
Hi Vino Pit, That's a hard question to answer it depends on a lot of factors. Like I explain in this video at 11:25 I like to keep 10mm underneath the heel of the neck. So my neck pocket depth is the total body thickness minus 10mm. Of course I made sure when I was making my neck that the heel of the neck is at least as high as my body thickness so I can adjust this later on. At 18:22 I explain how to get to the final height of the neck using my method. The final height you need is highly dependable on the type of bridge you are going to use. For the bridges I used here I wanted a string height of approx. 10mm at the scale line where the bridge is going to be. To do this I measured the string height before I adjusted the heel of the neck after the pocket was routed and adjusted the heel of the neck accordingly. With every step I left about 1-2mm play which I used to make the final adjustments to get to a final string height at the bridge of 10mm. My guitar building method is based around working myself slowly up to the requirement instead of figuring out all dimension beforehand. This way I can prevent a lot of mistakes. I have another video on making a neck pocket which might be easier to follow: ua-cam.com/video/IdinKAJ-x4k/v-deo.html
Hi ZipZip, I think you can, but I'm not sure if it would be easier. This way I can make sure everything is aligned properly and have a nice access for the router bit.
Oh wacht ik denk dat ik het snap, je hebt die lineaal erop gelegd, en aan het eind was de afstand natuurlijk hoger dan bij de nek. En de hoogte ga ik ff aannemen dit het gemiddelde is van het bereik in hoogte van je brug.
Hi Thijs, Ja inderdaad ik meet op de intonatie-lijn de gewenste snaar-hoogte voor de brug, alleen neem ik niet het gemiddelde, maar de gewenste hoogte van de zadels op de brug. Meestal neem ik 1á2 mm boven de minimale hoogte. Vaak moet je de brug toch iets hoger afstellen dan verwacht. Nu was dit filmpje voor een Floyd Rose brug en heb je afstel ruimte genoeg. Ik heb ook een nieuwer filmpje waarin ik het iets beter uitleg voor een vaste brug. ua-cam.com/video/IdinKAJ-x4k/v-deo.html
Thank you Sir you have cleared up a lot of questions I was wondering about and I didn't even have to ask anyone and get a lot of unuseful answers.
Masking tape on the template to make it tighter is genius! Wish I’d known this before. Thanks!
Great video. I now have to go back and watch the first 9! Your English is good. No problem. Thanks for making this video series.
Brilliant idea...straight bars clamped to the side of the neck to keep it in line with the bridge centre... I'll be using that one.
Hi Pmcm 7317,
Thank you very much.
I think you should give it a try indeed. I found it to be an easy and accurate way of aligning the neck.
Great episode , Sir !!
I'll be releasing a video on these templates after the first of the year. stay tuned
Thank you for your videos - very clear, well explained and detailed. They have helped me a lot
Do you have an opinion on bolt on vs glued in necks? What are the pros and cons?
Thank you for your videos. I have just started making instruments and I find you videos informative. I have made tons of other stuff, but guitars are complex and the details very subtle.
Your really awesome... Very good.. and really clear. Love your simple but effective methods.
This was just what I needed. I got a budy that builds awesome necks but to often strange speck.. So ill get a neck from the guy... and find out my tele body jig is too small.. WHat your laying down here really helps me out.. Now I can just fit the neck in.. Awesome.
Watching all the fine detailed methods in your work, I think, is really going to give me a good head start into guitar building. It's going to take time to get into it and I am very eager. But I have no choice but to be patient.
Hi Reprisal Within,
Thank you and it is good to know my videos are helping you to prepare for your first build.
Good luck when the time comes to start your build.
Great build video, keep going!
Great video, thanks for sharing
Every time i watch this i pick up something new, thanks Dan.
Great video, exactly what I needed to see.
Love watching other builders processes👏🤗
Great work.
Hi Eralp,
Thank you!
Thanks for this excellent video, it’s going to be the second time routing the neck pocket on my first build and I’m pretty sure it’s going to be straight and tight.. thanks so much you have saved me a lot of time
a very convenient, straight forward method.
I will try that in my next build.
Thanks and greetings from GER
Hi Ralf.
Thank you and I'm glad you found some useful information in one of my videos.
Have fun building your guitar.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
mooie gitaar ! bedankt voor het filmpje
Well Dan, once again another stunning job on the guitar build, well done and many thanks for sharing your time.😀
You’re very welcome and thank you once again.
This was another great episode. Well done!
Hi Rob,
Thank you very much.
I just feel like getting Steve at Maximum Guitar Works to make you a custom template set could save you so much time and allow you to further increase your ability to make more guitars without sacrificing quality!
Nice video, I've done neck through and bolt on but set neck is next.
Also totally agree about it being easier to rout the pocket a bit rather than keep planing the heel, I have planed a bit to far before trying to get it perfectly level lol
Dan, very nice build looking forward to see the finish.
Thank you very much. It will take a couple of episodes before she is finished so please keep watching these weekly videos and follow along with the entire build.
Congrats with your first 100+ subscribers. Let's get to a 1000. All the hard work pays off.
Thank you very much‼️ Still enjoying your Nessa? Let’s go for a thousand subs.
this was great, thank you!
Great video and your english is very easy to understand
Hi Gary,
Thank you very much for the nice compliment.
I appreciate it.
I found your channel a minute ago and I already love it! Thank you for sharing your knowledge. And a Happy new year!!!
Hi Henning,
Thank you very much and a Happy New Year to you to.
Great job thank you 👍👏
This was such a great tutorial video, thank you so much for taking the time to produce it. I think you explained and demonstrated the steps quite well. Thanks again and I subscribed
3:19 This lot of efforts may be easily workarounded with joint template that is a bit narrower than basic neck, and can be just applied to both body and neck. Additional benefit is added body material to pocket (useful for bodies that narrow near the joint), which increases joint strength.
Another Great video! Love your work! As an American I can say your English is better than some Americans!
Hi Michael,
Thank you very much. I really appreciate you mentioning this.
I used to be super 'aware' and 'annoyed' with my English mistakes, but these days I think to myself my English is probably better than most of my viewer's Dutch.
Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! This is a very helpful tutorial!
Hi Shad,
You are very welcome.
I'm glad to hear you're getting some useful information from my videos.
Bravissimo
Hey Sal Evola,
Thank you!
gracias genio !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! excelente
That Mal, he's everybody's pal
Nice job bro. you have a new subscriber, greetings from antoher musician from El Salvador !!!
Hey Oswald,
Thank you very much for subscribing and the compliment.
Greetings from the Netherlands.
Get yourself a couple of squeeze clamps my friend. Your clamps are gorgeous though. I love your workmanship and builds. If I could be half as careful as you my guitars would be the better for it! :)
Hi Scott,
Thank you very much.
I had some squeeze clamps but they always seem to break on me.
I might need to look into a better quality squeeze clamps.
@@UnquendorGuitars Yessir. I have quite a few, and honestly I got the cheap ones from a company called HARBOR FREIGHT here in the US, and they've held up pretty well. Anyway, I would never advocate buying the cheap ones, but there you are HAHA. Best wishes.
Something you might try is to make a dummy fridge out of wood and stick it to the top (masking tape/super glue). If that dummy bridge has the bridge height, string thickness and relief built into it, you don't have to keep measuring the clearance when you try the neck after each adjustment, you can just see it.
Hi Ian,
That is a very good idea. I can't believe I haven't thought about that.
Thank you very much for sharing. I will definitely start doing that.
@@UnquendorGuitars Oh my pleasure, but I mustn't claim credit for the idea - it was something Ben Crowe showed me. He also showed me a technique for setting the break angle without making adjustments at the bottom of the tenon, although I think this was one of Tom's tricks.
You keep the bottom of the heel parallel with the top surface and you initially size the pocket so that the bottom of the fingerboard is level with the top surface of the body. This starts you with zero break angle.
Then you attach that dummy bridge in place, respecting the likely midpoint for correct intonation.
Then take a long plane, rest the back on the dummy bridge and then plane away the area on the body around the pocket until the line of your cut reaches the end of the pocket.
Lastly, use that new surface to rout the bottom surface of the pocket again and also the end where the neck will butt.
The neck then should just slide in at the correct break angle. The big advantage of this method is that you specifically manufacture the correct break angle in and I don't see how you can "overshoot" that way.
I found a video too : ua-cam.com/video/RfU5ckGt5nY/v-deo.html
Awesome!!!!!!!!!
A very informative video! I'm just about to go through this step on my 2nd guitar and this was a very useful resource. Thank you!
Hi John. I’m glad you got some useful information from this video. How is your build coming along?
@@UnquendorGuitars slowly! I keep putting off the tricky bits! I did the fret level crown and polish today so next step is the fitting of the neck to the body.
You are nearly there with the hardest parts almost done. Good luck and have fun building. I hope you make a couple of videos of this build.
@@UnquendorGuitars thanks. Yes I'm videoing it all. It will be more of a time-lapse style this time as I wanted to concentrate more on what I was doing than videoing. If you would like to see progress taka a look at my Instagram. @johnclothieruk I post pictures there as I go along.
Zo, jou schuur is een stuk groter dan die van mij. Maar ik ben pas een beginner en pas aan mijn derde gitaar bezig. Ik ga je volgen. Groeten uit Zeeland!
Hi Leon,
Bedankt voor je reactie.
Mijn werkplaats lijkt groter in de filmpjes dan hij daadwerkelijk is. De schuur is een krappe 2x4m, maar net groot genoeg voorlopig.
Bedankt voor het volgen en veel succes met je eigen gitaarprojecten.
Hey thanks, I learned a lot, and your English is fine!
Hey Lamborn55,
Thank you very much.
great work...one thing though...i make my tennons longer ...they go all the way to the back of the neck pickup rout....
U should try a laser straight edge line shooting down from above.
What's the difference between gluing vs screwing in the neck with a neck plate? Do people prefer to use screws so they can adjust the neck later on? Does your neck have a truss rod? Also I just want to say your video is great and very helpful.
Very informative video, very helpful. Where did you purchase that nice protractor?
Goeie video!
Hi Age Dijkstra,
Heel erg bedankt!
Very helpful! One question: How do you make sure that the curves on the end of the neck heel (both corners at the end) match the curves of the neck pocket? How I see it, the curves on the neck pocket come from the diameter of your router bit, but how do you make sure that the round corners on the neck heel match your template?
Hey Maurice,
I know from the diameter of my router bit what radius the inner corners of the neck pocket will be so I have the same radius on the template I use the make the neck itself.
If you don't have the radius on the template used to make the neck you could also use a spindel or disc sander to round over the corners on the heel.
@@UnquendorGuitars That's smart! You probably do have like a little margin for error since that part is usually covered by the neck pickup. Anyway, thanks for the advice
Is there a video showing how you did the side bevels?
Was the centerline of the body at the glue joint, or did you still have markings on the edge of the body to connect?
Both
First comment! Looking forward to this
Thank you. Enjoy the video.
How do you determine the depth of the neck pocket?
Hi Henry,
The neck pocket depth I use is the body thickness - 10mm approximately.
And I adjust the heel thickness accordingly keeping +/- 1mm play on both the pocket and the heel to make some final adjustments to get the correct string height at the bridge.
Is there a neck pocket angle similar to Les Paul ?
Hi Gurup,
I'm not sure about your question, but if you are referring to the angle I used for this neck the answer is no. The break angle I use is less than used on a Les Paul.
No one in this videos explaines the correct depht of neck pocket and thickness of neck. How much of neck material should be above body?
Hi Vino Pit,
That's a hard question to answer it depends on a lot of factors.
Like I explain in this video at 11:25 I like to keep 10mm underneath the heel of the neck. So my neck pocket depth is the total body thickness minus 10mm. Of course I made sure when I was making my neck that the heel of the neck is at least as high as my body thickness so I can adjust this later on.
At 18:22 I explain how to get to the final height of the neck using my method. The final height you need is highly dependable on the type of bridge you are going to use.
For the bridges I used here I wanted a string height of approx. 10mm at the scale line where the bridge is going to be. To do this I measured the string height before I adjusted the heel of the neck after the pocket was routed and adjusted the heel of the neck accordingly. With every step I left about 1-2mm play which I used to make the final adjustments to get to a final string height at the bridge of 10mm.
My guitar building method is based around working myself slowly up to the requirement instead of figuring out all dimension beforehand. This way I can prevent a lot of mistakes.
I have another video on making a neck pocket which might be easier to follow: ua-cam.com/video/IdinKAJ-x4k/v-deo.html
Ace
Hi Stuart,
Thank you!
couldnt you just make the neck pocket on the body first and then cut out the shape? i would think that would make it much easier.
Hi ZipZip,
I think you can, but I'm not sure if it would be easier.
This way I can make sure everything is aligned properly and have a nice access for the router bit.
a small hammer and piece of wood will move the neck heel precisely. Don't move it by hand.... use precise tools.
The plane should be cutting at an angle, not straight.
J7st thought you might want to know
Oh wacht ik denk dat ik het snap, je hebt die lineaal erop gelegd, en aan het eind was de afstand natuurlijk hoger dan bij de nek. En de hoogte ga ik ff aannemen dit het gemiddelde is van het bereik in hoogte van je brug.
Hi Thijs,
Ja inderdaad ik meet op de intonatie-lijn de gewenste snaar-hoogte voor de brug, alleen neem ik niet het gemiddelde, maar de gewenste hoogte van de zadels op de brug.
Meestal neem ik 1á2 mm boven de minimale hoogte. Vaak moet je de brug toch iets hoger afstellen dan verwacht.
Nu was dit filmpje voor een Floyd Rose brug en heb je afstel ruimte genoeg.
Ik heb ook een nieuwer filmpje waarin ik het iets beter uitleg voor een vaste brug.
ua-cam.com/video/IdinKAJ-x4k/v-deo.html
lager*
I noticed you speak American and not English.