Andy & others, I'm looking at a Singer 327K parts list. Singer part #179678 is listed as a "Take-up Spring Spacing Washer", do that description would match perfectly with the location where the "extra" washer had fallen out. It would seem that it's an intentional part of the 327K's tension assembly.
Right you are, Alan, and it is worth repeating. In the 80+ comments on this video, a couple other viewers found this to be true also. When I amde the video about 3 years ago I could not find a parts list but since have found it and it is as you say. Thanks for watching my channel. I pinned your comment to the top for others to see first./
Thank you for this video Andy. I purchased a used 327K a few years ago. When it works, it's great! But every once in a while the needle thread would break. I finally diagnosed the problem to the tension assembly. The thread was so tight, between the tension disks, I couldn't even pull it (explaining the reason the thread broke in the needle). Your video gave me the confidence to take apart the tension assembly. On close inspection I found the cross bar of the 'Tension Spring Cup Indicator' was broken. Your suggestion of gluing a piece of small metal seemed reasonable to me. So found a cotter pin which I snipped to fit in the back of the broken cross bar. I super glued the snipped cotter pin to the back of the crossbar. After much fiddling, I believe it has been a successful fix. And as pointed out- my 327 also had a washer, which was necessary to ensure the pin, from the take up lever, worked properly. The 327K is consistently stitching with no breaking needle thread! Keep up the great work!
I love your comment! It's always rewarding to hear that it was helpful with someone repairing their machine to make it better or keep it in service. It helps justify the time and effort I spend with these videos. I appreciate the time you took to comment. Happy sewing 😀
Thank you so much! I’ve just taken mine apart & it’s now working, needs a new belt but other than that it’s going 🙌🏻 It has very strong tension on the bottom spool so tension has to be right up on the top to counteract it, would there be a reason for that? I’ve watched the spool timing vid and that all checks out
Back in the day, Singer machine owners were told NOT to mess with bobbin tension as it was set by the factory. Of course, that was 50 to 60 years ago. The bobbin tension spring can be bent, have impacted lint/dirt under it and who knows who "messed" with it over the years. Here is a video about cleaning and adjusting a Class 66 bobbin case like yours: ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html Also, this video includes R & R of the motor belt and you may find it helpful: ua-cam.com/video/6H-SDwXLQDk/v-deo.html Thanks for keeping that machine in service, and I appreciate your kind comment. Happy sewing.
Awesome thank you! The fashion disks (mines the singer) weren’t working due to the little arm getting stuck out and not popping back in, oil had to sit for a few days but it’s loose again now and happily sewing patterns once it’s new belt arrives it’ll be up an running again & my auntie will be delighted it’ll have a new lease of life with my 8 year old (who has made her first set of cotton shirt pyjamas this week on my Toyota) she’ll find this old lady much more amenable ❤
The tension release pin on my tension unit had become stuck and the tension unit was essentially frozen. Following your advice, I took it apart, cleaned it up, set the tension by “zeroing” it and it now works like a charm. No question, this video and your tension series is terrific! Thank you!
Well Andy, another winner. I am now much less fearful of my tension assembly. I am going to watch this a few more times then proceed. My upper thread kind of gets locked in place while sewing occasionally. I wonder if someone stuck a washer in there. I will let you know what I find. I can sew fine for 20 minutes, then the tension gets supertight and the thread breaks.
Hmm... I'm not sure it's the tension unit causing your problem. If it was it seems you could not sew much at all let alone 20 minutes. What an odd problem and it must be frustrating. Without having the machine on my bench I can only guess. Does it happen on straight and zigzag stitches? I'm wondering if the thread clearance is a little narrow and catching the thread at full speed. ua-cam.com/video/fq_1qRQFM_Y/v-deo.html If the thread hangs on the bobbin case position spring that can create full tension on the needle thread. A burr on the hook could catch the thread, too. Well, it never hurts to clean the tension unit I guess. Good Luck.
it's good to hear from you Max I'm glad you still using that 301 I'm doing okay and I'm out of Arizona on vacation up in the Northwest nice and cool weather for a week take care of yourself
Thank you again, Andy! I have a 329K and this is the ONLY tutorial I found that was similar enough. My problem seems to be the pin, which isn't pushing outward, as you demonstrate in this tutorial. So, in in the process of trying to fix that. It isn't engaging from inside the machine. Would you happen to have a tutorial for how to fix that issue? 🤔
So inside the nose of the machine is a Tension Pin Releasing Lever. When you raise the presser bar the lifting lever should push and rock the tension release lever against the tip of the tension pin. You can watch and see if that happens. With the other parts off and just the pin stuck into the slot of the tension stud you can take something, maybe a toothpick, and put it in the slot sideways to push the pin in as far as you can. While doing that if you look in the nose of the machine you should see the end of the pin sticking out of a hole about 1/16" or so. That tells you your pin is moving freely inside the stud and is long enough for the release lever to touch it. If the release lever does not rock over and touch and push that pin back into the hole, then the release lever may be bent or the lifting lever for the presser par may be loose or damaged and not rocking the release lever all the way to the right against the pin. I do have a video showing how to replace the release lever. It's on a different model but the parts are the same/similar. I'm not saying you need to replace the lever but want you to see how all those parts work together to move the pin. ua-cam.com/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/v-deo.html Have faith, Alyssa, I'm sorry the tension is weird but you can figure out the cause and that is half the battle of fixing it. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, Andy! It looks like everything is working. I just left a comment on the 401 video. It looks like the issue is that the pin is not returning to its starting position and remaining inside of the stud. 🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️🙇♀️ I see the pin from inside the machine. I lift the presser foot lever, the pin is pushed in; however, it is not coming back out. 😑 I'm laughing at my aggravation 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
@@alyssapeters6271 Yes, I see the comment on the 401 video. I'll answer your question here so other viewers can follow if needed. In, out, what's it all about? Think of it like this: The "normal" or "resting" position of your sewing machine is Presser Foot Down (PFD) and the Tension Dial is set to a number, maybe 3 or 4. In this resting position, the Tension Releasing Pin (TRP) is poking into the nose area, just waiting for you to lift the Presser Lifting Lever (PLL). The TRP stays poked into the nose b/c the Beehive Tension Spring (BTS) is pushing against the Indicator Dial (ID), the dial with the " - | + " on it. The ID has that slim "bar" in the center of it that slides inside the Tension Stud (TS). That bar pushes on the inside end to the TRP unless the Numeraated Dial (ND), with the 0 thru 9 numbers has been set to zero (0). That BTS is ALWAYS pushing against the ID whose bar pushes on the TP (unless the ND is set at zero) So, if the Tension Assembly is installed and adjusted properly the TP will always be poking into the nose UNTIL you lift the Presser Bar/Foot, or if you have the ND set to zero which means no presser on the TRP from the bar of the ID. You see that lifting the presser bar rocks the Tension Pin Releasing Lever over against the end of the TRP in the nose, which pushes the pin into the bar of the ID which pushes back on the BTS which releases the tension on the Tension Discs so you can place the thread in the tension assembly when threading the needle or remove your fabric from under the lifted presser foot. *** If your Presser Foot is down and the TRP is not showing inside the nose, then either the Numerated Dial is set at zero, or the Assembly is not installed or adjusted properly. *** See? Easy! BTW, if your tension assembly is not fully assembled, say you just have the stud and tension pin in place, there is nothing pushing the tension pin back into the nose, so if you lift the presser foot the pin is pushed into the stud in the nose, but won't come back out b/c the indicator dial and the beehive spring are not there to push back on it. So that's it in a nutshell; the short version of tension theory 😊
You're welcome. Even though the 329K can not double-needle sew b/c of the needle plate and feed dog, it still has the three tension discs in the tension assembly. You'll feel right at home and find it rewarding to clean it. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
@@sms4925 Even though the 329K can not double-needle sew b/c of the needle plate and feed dog, it still has the three tension discs in the tension assembly. Models 327, 327K, 328, 328K, and 329K all use the same tension unit, but the 328, 328K models were the ones set up for double or two-needle sewing. BTW, if you need the instruction manual for your machine you can download it from Singer for free at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=329 Happy Sewing.
Hi Andy, love your channel. I'm working on a singer 328K. While watching your video and trying to follow it I found that the "Thumb Nut" is not separated from the "Numerated Dial". How do I make it work properly with this type of thumb nut?
Hi Andy. Thanks, again for sharing all that you have to-date...marvellous! Forgive me if you have already considered correcting yourself (in the 3 years since you posted this video) and I just haven't seen it.... ..regarding the small 'plain washer' you found in the Thread Tension Unit? I was working on a second such machine and, in both instances, had found such a washer within the unit. It seemed too much of a coincidence to me and my first thoughts are that it DOES belong there: I'm guessing that Singer used the same parts for this model 237 as with the 238 (do you call that a 'Genie' across the pond?). Whereas the 238 can accommodate twin needle sewing by utilising a third disc within the tension unit, the model 237 can't; it has just the two discs, leaving 'slack' within the unit which is taken up by the presence of the 'plain washer'. Do you think this is at all likely? Howie
Greetings, Howie. A few things to unpack here. First, thanks for complimenting my channel. I appreciate it. A few viewers mentioned that the original Singer parts list for this machine showed the washer. The latest was @alanjanos652 who commented about 3 months ago and I pinned his comment to the top of the comment section. As I replied to him I could not find a parts list at the time I was making the video but have since been given a copy by a viewer and can verify the parts number and the diagram shows the washer belongs there. This was a first for me and a few repair people I asked about it, so live and learn. Your theory about why it is there vs the more advanced sister model seems very feasible to me, and better than anything I have discussed with others. You have great reasoning skills I'd say. If I could pin your comment along with @alanjanos652 I would, but I can only pin one. The only model(s) I've seen here in the USA that were called "Genie" were the 353/354. The twins to those in the UK were called "starlet" if I remember correctly. Many years later Singer made another Starlet model. Finally, I'm sure you meant to write models 327K and 328K in your comment. Thanks for watching my channel, and keeping your machine(s) in service.
Hello! Thanks for sharing and the information! I was able to take apart and clean the upper tension unit. The disks of the upper tension are different from yours . There are 3 disks, but with different groves. It doesn't have a stop waher. Neither a thumb nut with a pin on the back. Sad to report that the issue is not solved yet. Thank you so much for this video, I was able to clean the tension unit.
@@cocasio7190 thanks for the clarification I asked because the Way that you describe the tension doesn't match the tension unit that came from the factory like the one of my video so I don't know if somebody switched out the tension assembly before and they're usually made for a particular machine if somebody use one from a different model that may be causing some problems for you
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your help! I saw a video of the upper tension for a 403, and it's very similar to the one that the sewing machine has. Thank you again!
Mr. Andy. Thank you so much for your help and patience with me. Based on your experience, do you think that the upper tension stop washer could make a difference in the tension for proper stitching?
Hi Andy not long found your site I’m a fan already. I have a machine identical to yours but a 357K singer with I’m informed has an intermittent lower stitch looping problem which I’ve not been able to replicate . All tensions and timing seemed to be fine but like you I had an identical washer fall out of the thread tension assembly as I was taking it apart to check and clean it fell out with the pressure disc assembly but I didn’t see exactly it had been fitted
Hi, Ken. Thanks for watching my channel. The washer is part of this unique style assembly( for spacing). It goes behind the two tension discs toward the machine. So the tension thread guard, then two discs, then the washer. Here is a video for fixing the looping problem I had on this machine (that I caused) ua-cam.com/video/90Js3BXFz7I/v-deo.html
Hi Andy, You were so kind to help me with my 329k model a few months back (tension issue). I was sewing with my machine yesterday and it suddenly froze. The bobbin housing is stuck, the wheel won’t turn, nor will the needle move. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the machine working again? I would appreciate your input. Many thanks!
Yikes! Was there a broken needle? Many times what you describe is b/c thread has wrapped around the hook and jammed the machine from turning. A broken needle or loose pin can jamb the hook underneath. Try to remove the bobbin case. It can jump off the race and get caught in the hook and that will stop the machine in a heartbeat! I had a couple of machines where the bushings were not oiled and finally got hot enough that they seized up until proper oiling was done. I'd try cleaning and oiling, looking for errant thread wrapping or a pin or screw where it does not belong. Follow the instruction manual closely for oiling the machine. If you need a copy it is available free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=329 Always use sewing machine oil (SMO) or TriFlow oil.
Hi Andy! Thanks for the link to the manual. I lifted the lever to the right of the bobbin case & that dislodged whatever was making it malfunction. Thank you again for your help!
That's my project for tomorrow😊 Cleaned, greased and oiled everything today except for the tension unit cause it is dirty and sticky. I'll let you know if I find a washer in mine👍
Dish soap works very nicely on those tension unit parts. I bet there is a washer. I was startled to find one, but it appears to be on the parts list. Have fun.
Hi Andy, your videos are so helpful - thank you! I’ve been dismantling the tension assembly on my 327k in order to clean it. BUT, I forgot to take it back to zero (I know - very silly of me! going by my photos I took it was between 4 and 5). Is this going to cause me major issues? And do I just reassemble it as it was? Any advice would be much appreciated - thank you!!
In the end, good tension is a balance between the needle thread and the bobbin thread while sewing. The reason for the "Zero out" is to give you a big range of needle thread tension. This is especially important for Satin Stitch ZZ sewing. When you do wide ZZ sewing with a satin stitch (like buttonhole sewing with the stitching very close together; monogram stitching also) you may need to have only a tension setting of "1" or even a little less. In the end, if you can sew what you want to sew and the stitch is nice or "pretty" then what you did is OK. On my machine after a zero out maybe normal stitching is a range of 3 to 5 and for Satin Stitch maybe a 2 or 1. On your machine, it may be a 7 or 8 for normal sewing and 5 or 4 for wide Satin Stitch. If you can live with that then it doesn't matter. Really, you can zero out the tension unit at any time you like. You do not need to disassemble it again. Just start the video @ 39:45 and adjust the thumbscrew "pin" until you find the thread lightly lifts the check spring with the number dial set at zero.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for taking the time to reply, that is a very helpful way of looking at it, and I’m glad I haven’t completely screwed it up! The tension assembly is all shiny and clean now and I will reassemble it later today! Thanks again 😊
@@nikidawson8740 I think I misread your first comment, so embarrassed. How you took it apart doesn't really matter. Turning to zero before removing only makes it a little easier to disassemble. Now you can just reassemble as in the video and do the "Zero Out" part after it is back together. What I said about balanced tension is very true though. Each machine is an individual, like us, and my exact "setting" at zero out may be a little different from yours but both machines could sew the exact same tension. After cleaning and reinstalling you'll be happy with how well the tension works again.
Hello again Andy. i have the 327k, i have done the tension unit, but i cannot seem to get it completely right, especially the zig zag. i have loosened the bobbin slightly, but there is still a little top thread showing underneath. loosened top thread also, but no different. is it the bobbin or top tension? Please help. Thank you. Regards, Ann
OK, Ann. Be sure you use the correct size needle for the fabric, the smallest needle that will penetrate is usually better. If using a bigger needle, of course the hole it makes is bigger and allows the "knot" of the stitch to poke thru. If the top thread is showing under the fabric that means the bobbin thread tension is stronger than the needle thread tension, so you would add more upper or needle thread tension. You can lower the bobbin thread tension, but it is always better to try to control the stitch balance by adjusting the upper thread tension. It's just easier to do (turn knob) than the bobbin tension. It is rare to have to change bobbin thread tension unless the screw is bad, the spring is full of lint/dirty. One out of 30 machines I restore I need to change bobbin tension. Usually, if the top tension seems OK the bobbin holder tension spring is dirty with krud or lint and I clean it with a pin or floss, or if metal I have even boiled it in water for a minute to flush stuff out.
@@andytubesewing1953 my 329k runs like a top because of you I fixed the timing issue and zeroed the tension. Now I'm going to tackle my mom's 403 I'm not sure what's wrong yet. Much appreciation from a Canadian in his 30s
Nicely done, John! The 403A Special is a great machine. You can fix what ever is wrong. On my playlist page I have Regina the 403A, Vicky the 503A and a 56 video tutorial for model 404. There are videos in each playlist that can help with the 403A. ua-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public Best of luck to you.
Hi Andy- I have a 329k brown/bronze in color. I am having an issue with the thread tension dial. 1. My finger washer is not “hooked”. It just has a straight nodule. 2. The thumb nut has two pieces with a set pin on the larger piece, not a post (like yours). So, when I put the thread tension mechanism back together, the numerated dial does not move in unison with the thumb nut. I’m not sure if I am missing a part or not. When I watched your video, all the parts of the thread tension mechanism looked the same as yours, except the finger washer and the thumb nut (as mentioned above). If you can offer advice - it would be much appreciated.
Set screw. Martha, I looked at my parts list for model 329K and discovered the tension unit is different than the one Singer used on the 327K. It is unusual for them to do that on a family of models like that, but it sounds like you have the correct parts for your model. I think your assembly is the same as the model 401A/403A so please take a look at this video to see if it will help you get the tension set properly. ua-cam.com/video/eVLiED-FCA8/v-deo.html Good Luck.
Thank you so much Andy!! My 329k tension assembly is exactly like the 401A as shown in your video link. I will follow your instructions on that link & keep you posted.
@@marthaager1891 I had hoped it is, but thanks for the verification. Give it a go and I think it will work much better and make more sense of your parts. Good luck.
The 327 in my video is the "SPARTAN" model, and a little cheaper to be more affordable. There's not really much difference in the 327/327K (K = made in Kilbowie, Scottland factory) You can try this popular video: ua-cam.com/video/FYmi9Gk2Obs/v-deo.html You can download a free copy of the 327 Instruction Manual from the Singer SUpport page here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=327 You can buy and download the Service Manual for the models for $9.95 here: manualsoncd.com/?s=327&post_type=product Thanks for watching my channel.
it was made by the singer corporation and it was actually called small screwdriver versus the large screwdriver and they came in a set with most machines up until the late '50s I think you can usually find them on SD or eBay here's one I found today www.etsy.com/listing/641543634/singer-221-featherweight-blackside-small?gpla=1&gao=1&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-q-Elfqv4wIVfh6tBh3LpwC0EAkYASABEgJxGPD_BwE it's a misnomer to call it a 221 featherweight they do that to try and charge more money but they came with many machines not only the 221 thanks for watching my channel. Vintage Simanco Singer 120378 small screwdriver
Terry I'm sure you are correct I miss that completely That's split tension screwdriver was given to me by a friend I believe he found it in the estate sale. I've been looking for more of them for the past year and I have never seen one anywhere☹️
@@andytubesewing1953 I bought my set of three different length screw drivers from Lee Valley Tools. They call them Quick-Wedge Slot screwdrivers (Made in USA) www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57073&cat=1,43411,43417
Hi Andy, I was wondering if you have a video on just the Singer 328K? I picked one up the other day. no manual . For the life of me, I can't find the light switch. Don't laugh LOL. I'm cleaning it up and it is looking good. Also, I want to thank you so much for all your videos.
Hey, I'm not LOL. Well... maybe. If you don't see a push-button on/off switch about 3" directly above the light cover plate then your particular version of the 328K does not have a separate light switch. The light comes on when the cord is plugged into the wall socket and goes out when you unplug. I believe the 328/328K was made in three factories with three slightly different colors (maybe it was two?) and only one version has the separate light switch. You can download a couple of free Instruction Manuals from Singer, One is labeled "328 1360" and right below it is a multi-model manual for nine different "Family" sewing machines that includes info for models 327K/328K. Here is the link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=328 Here is my entire 18 video Playlist for model 327K: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html Here is 20 video Playlist for model 338K: ua-cam.com/users/playlist list=PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi I mention model 338K b/c it's the next generation of model 328K and has mostly the same mechanical parts. I've never had the pleasure of working on a 328K. The 338K is much more popular in my area. Maybe it's the blue color? Thanks for watching my channel, Leah, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 You are awesome! Thank you, I have been looking everywhere for a manual. You are right, once I cleaned and oiled the machine I plugged it up and the light came on. :) I also have the 338k and love the color. I'm sure that's why they are so popular. Thank you for making all these great videos. Have a wonderful evening.
@@leahquesenberry2958 you are very welcome Lee I'm glad singer is still making the manuals available they stopped letting us download the parts list That's a nice pair of beautiful metal machines you have with the 327 and the 338 congratulations
@@mariamezano7431 Sometimes you can buy new small parts like that from online sellers like this one, just search under the model number. www.sewingpartsonline.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIseDWx4n_6QIVEh-tBh2D-gW4EAAYASAAEgIbNPD_BwE For most replacement parts on vintage machines you can search on eBay for a seller who is "parting out" a machine and see if they have the part(s) you need.
Hi, Kelly. Do you mean you cannot bring up the bobbin thread to begin sewing? Or you can sew like skipping stitches? Is this a new machine for you? Did it work before this? Common reasons: wrong type of needle, bent needle, needle inserted backward, Needle not installed all the way up into the needle camp, or dirt in the needle clamp preventing full insertion of the needle, bobbin inserted backward direction, needle bar height is too high or low, needle to hook point timing is off. More info please and we can solve this together.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hello again. This is a machine I just got from a family member. I don't know when it was used last. It will not bring the thread up. I have the bobbin inserted the correct way. When I turn the arm it feels like the tension is way too tight on the bobbin cartridge once it's loaded into the bobbin case. The needle is good and inserted correctly. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the update, Kelly. If I'm understanding, the needle thread does wrap around the bobbin thread as it should, but the bobbin thread cannot be pulled up through the needle plate. If that is the case, you can clean and adjust the bobbin case and adjust the tension. I made a video about your bobbin case that may help: ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html I use a gauge in the video but people adjust the tension by feel also when no gauge is available. Pull on the bobbin thread by hand before you clean and adjust and then adjust for less tension. You may need to adjust it a few times before you find a balance between the two threads.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes that is correct. I will try cleaning the bobbin case. I'm not sure I will be able to adjust the tension correctly but I'll try. One other question. Does it require me th use a metal bobbin? Our can i use a universal plastic?
IMO, the plastic is OK but either way it MUST be a class 66 bobbin. www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbins-singer-class-66-172336-s.aspx www.singer.com/Singer-Class-66-Bobbins-Metal singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter
Hold on please, I'm still trying to answer the tension question you left 30 minutes ago. Actually, watching this video in the meantime may help you. I'll post more soon.
How frustrating for you. Yes, I have some ideas. I do not know if this skipping just suddenly developed, or if the machine is new to you and you are trying to use it for the first time. You said you tried “everything” but I’m not sure what all that includes so if I mention something you’ve tried, sorry. 1. The most common cause is a worn needle. Yep, replace that needle with a brand-new needle of the proper size for your 327k (Catalog 2020, better known as 15x1) and correct size for your thread and fabric. If you do not have one you can download a free copy of the Instruction Manual for Singer at this link: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/outdated_product/SINGER%20327%20and%20327K%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf The needle & thread chart is on page 4. Pull out the needle thread all the way back to the spool and rethread the needle again. Page 9 of the manual has directions for threading the needle. Also, a poorly wound bobbin can cause skipping. The bobbin should be wound properly with equal distribution and under tension, so it is evenly wound. If you suspect a problem, then rewind a new bobbin (class 66 for your model) as shown on pages 6 & 7. If you have not done so already, clean or at least brush the tension unit. Here is a link to the 327K tension unit video: ua-cam.com/video/d4k2wlDFsj0/v-deo.html You may have already seen this video but people reading our comments may not have. Clean the bobbin area well, including the feed dog. Page 26 & 27 show how to remove & replace the throat (needle) plate and bobbin case for cleaning. Now try to sew a straight stitch #10 length and a moderate speed. Do not push or pull the fabric but let the feed dog do its job of moving the fabric in time with the needle stroke. If you still are skipping here are other possible causes that I have experienced on vintage Singer sewing machines. No particular order here, just as they come to mind. 2. Unbalanced thread tension between needle and bobbin threads, usually fixed by using more or less tension on the needle thread tension unit. Thread tension is covered on pages 14 & 15. 3. Low pressure on the presser bar, presser bar height wrong, worn feed dog, wrong type presser foot. The idea here is the fabric is “slipping” and not moving properly in time with the needle. See page 13 for Pressure Settings. 4. Needle Bar height is incorrect. Video for that is here: ua-cam.com/video/3IcqC_4q4Dc/v-deo.html 5. That goes along with needle to hook point timing which is this video: ua-cam.com/video/u5CwVH7RyaI/v-deo.html Those above are the most common. There are other more technical issues, like centering the needle in the needle plate hole, the distance of needlepoint to hook point, etc. but start with these, changing the needle first thing. Here is the link to the entire playlist for model 327K: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I've had the machine a while used it a little mainly straight stitching. Shes sat a few months not being used, I'm wondering if my kids have done something to it. I've cleaned and oiled. Worked through lots of your tutorials, Only thing I haven't tried is the timing, looks to me like it may be ever so slightly off from your images.
@@allibobs666 Since it worked before you are correct to clean and oil it. A few times I found the needle not inserted all the way up into the needle clamp b/c it was dirty inside and blocked full insertion. Oil drips inside and gets hard. I have found plenty of dull/bent needles. So before you change the timing besure your needle bar is set at the right height. Your model is all metal shafts underneath and does not have a belt that can slip. It is really rare for the timing to go out unless someone was fooling around down there. You're on the right track to find the problem. Good Luck.
My "Spartan 327K" (s/n ET136706) had the same "odd washer" in the tension unit. To the best of my knowledge, this machine has never been serviced by Singer since it was purchased directly from a Singer store back in the early 1960's. When I dismantled the tension unit, the "extra washer" was found between the rear tension (saucer-shaped) washer and the larger portion of the catch spring. The wear pattern on the washer indicated that it had been in that position for many years (decades?), so I have to assume that it was a factory-installed piece. I reassembled the tension unit exactly as described in this video, but did install the "odd washer" back in the same location where it was found on disassembly.
Here is the closest I have to the model 466 tension ua-cam.com/video/JqauIOWs9CI/v-deo.html You can buy a service manual here manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/
Andy & others, I'm looking at a Singer 327K parts list. Singer part #179678 is listed as a "Take-up Spring Spacing Washer", do that description would match perfectly with the location where the "extra" washer had fallen out. It would seem that it's an intentional part of the 327K's tension assembly.
Right you are, Alan, and it is worth repeating. In the 80+ comments on this video, a couple other viewers found this to be true also.
When I amde the video about 3 years ago I could not find a parts list but since have found it and it is as you say. Thanks for watching my channel. I pinned your comment to the top for others to see first./
Thank you for this video Andy.
I purchased a used 327K a few years ago.
When it works, it's great!
But every once in a while the needle thread would break.
I finally diagnosed the problem to the tension assembly.
The thread was so tight, between the tension disks, I couldn't even pull it (explaining the reason the thread broke in the needle).
Your video gave me the confidence to take apart the tension assembly.
On close inspection I found the cross bar of the 'Tension Spring Cup Indicator' was broken.
Your suggestion of gluing a piece of small metal seemed reasonable to me.
So found a cotter pin which I snipped to fit in the back of the broken cross bar.
I super glued the snipped cotter pin to the back of the crossbar.
After much fiddling, I believe it has been a successful fix.
And as pointed out- my 327 also had a washer, which was necessary to ensure the pin, from the take up lever, worked properly.
The 327K is consistently stitching with no breaking needle thread!
Keep up the great work!
I love your comment! It's always rewarding to hear that it was helpful with someone repairing their machine to make it better or keep it in service. It helps justify the time and effort I spend with these videos. I appreciate the time you took to comment. Happy sewing 😀
Really a great video. I have several 388K machines and one has an issue with the tension. Watching this helped me make a few adjustments. Thanks
Welcome. I appreciate the comment and your watching my channel.
The video helped me a lot, thank you👍👍
I'm happy to hear that. Thanks for keeping your machine in service and I appreciate the comment
I really like the real, actual Andy Tube videos. Not the fake ones.
😀 THANKS, RALPH! 🙏
Wonderful video Andy. I appreciate you and your channel!
@@roblavallee thanks for watching I appreciate your comment very kind of you.
Thank you so much! I’ve just taken mine apart & it’s now working, needs a new belt but other than that it’s going 🙌🏻
It has very strong tension on the bottom spool so tension has to be right up on the top to counteract it, would there be a reason for that? I’ve watched the spool timing vid and that all checks out
Back in the day, Singer machine owners were told NOT to mess with bobbin tension as it was set by the factory. Of course, that was 50 to 60 years ago. The bobbin tension spring can be bent, have impacted lint/dirt under it and who knows who "messed" with it over the years. Here is a video about cleaning and adjusting a Class 66 bobbin case like yours: ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html Also, this video includes R & R of the motor belt and you may find it helpful: ua-cam.com/video/6H-SDwXLQDk/v-deo.html Thanks for keeping that machine in service, and I appreciate your kind comment. Happy sewing.
Awesome thank you! The fashion disks (mines the singer) weren’t working due to the little arm getting stuck out and not popping back in, oil had to sit for a few days but it’s loose again now and happily sewing patterns once it’s new belt arrives it’ll be up an running again & my auntie will be delighted it’ll have a new lease of life with my 8 year old (who has made her first set of cotton shirt pyjamas this week on my Toyota) she’ll find this old lady much more amenable ❤
The tension release pin on my tension unit had become stuck and the tension unit was essentially frozen. Following your advice, I took it apart, cleaned it up, set the tension by “zeroing” it and it now works like a charm. No question, this video and your tension series is terrific! Thank you!
Yipee! A successful repair 😀 I happy the video was useful. Thanks for commenting and take care.
Andy. Thanks for the educational video. I have seen your other tension videos and this was really well done and the best so far (imo).
thanks very much Matthew and it goes to show there's always room for improvement thanks for watching
Well Andy, another winner. I am now much less fearful of my tension assembly. I am going to watch this a few more times then proceed. My upper thread kind of gets locked in place while sewing occasionally. I wonder if someone stuck a washer in there. I will let you know what I find. I can sew fine for 20 minutes, then the tension gets supertight and the thread breaks.
Hmm... I'm not sure it's the tension unit causing your problem. If it was it seems you could not sew much at all let alone 20 minutes. What an odd problem and it must be frustrating. Without having the machine on my bench I can only guess. Does it happen on straight and zigzag stitches? I'm wondering if the thread clearance is a little narrow and catching the thread at full speed.
ua-cam.com/video/fq_1qRQFM_Y/v-deo.html If the thread hangs on the bobbin case position spring that can create full tension on the needle thread. A burr on the hook could catch the thread, too. Well, it never hurts to clean the tension unit I guess. Good Luck.
I was doing some mending with my 301 and just wanted to say "Hi". Hope you're well, Andy :-)
it's good to hear from you Max I'm glad you still using that 301 I'm doing okay and I'm out of Arizona on vacation up in the Northwest nice and cool weather for a week take care of yourself
Thank you again, Andy! I have a 329K and this is the ONLY tutorial I found that was similar enough. My problem seems to be the pin, which isn't pushing outward, as you demonstrate in this tutorial. So, in in the process of trying to fix that. It isn't engaging from inside the machine. Would you happen to have a tutorial for how to fix that issue? 🤔
So inside the nose of the machine is a Tension Pin Releasing Lever. When you raise the presser bar the lifting lever should push and rock the tension release lever against the tip of the tension pin. You can watch and see if that happens. With the other parts off and just the pin stuck into the slot of the tension stud you can take something, maybe a toothpick, and put it in the slot sideways to push the pin in as far as you can. While doing that if you look in the nose of the machine you should see the end of the pin sticking out of a hole about 1/16" or so. That tells you your pin is moving freely inside the stud and is long enough for the release lever to touch it. If the release lever does not rock over and touch and push that pin back into the hole, then the release lever may be bent or the lifting lever for the presser par may be loose or damaged and not rocking the release lever all the way to the right against the pin. I do have a video showing how to replace the release lever. It's on a different model but the parts are the same/similar. I'm not saying you need to replace the lever but want you to see how all those parts work together to move the pin. ua-cam.com/video/tw-Y3V_LrnA/v-deo.html
Have faith, Alyssa, I'm sorry the tension is weird but you can figure out the cause and that is half the battle of fixing it. Good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you, Andy! It looks like everything is working. I just left a comment on the 401 video. It looks like the issue is that the pin is not returning to its starting position and remaining inside of the stud. 🤦♀️🤦♀️🤦♀️🙇♀️ I see the pin from inside the machine. I lift the presser foot lever, the pin is pushed in; however, it is not coming back out. 😑 I'm laughing at my aggravation 😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣
@@alyssapeters6271 Yes, I see the comment on the 401 video. I'll answer your question here so other viewers can follow if needed.
In, out, what's it all about? Think of it like this: The "normal" or "resting" position of your sewing machine is Presser Foot Down (PFD) and the Tension Dial is set to a number, maybe 3 or 4.
In this resting position, the Tension Releasing Pin (TRP) is poking into the nose area, just waiting for you to lift the Presser Lifting Lever (PLL). The TRP stays poked into the nose b/c the Beehive Tension Spring (BTS) is pushing against the Indicator Dial (ID), the dial with the " - | + " on it.
The ID has that slim "bar" in the center of it that slides inside the Tension Stud (TS). That bar pushes on the inside end to the TRP unless the Numeraated Dial (ND), with the 0 thru 9 numbers has been set to zero (0). That BTS is ALWAYS pushing against the ID whose bar pushes on the TP (unless the ND is set at zero)
So, if the Tension Assembly is installed and adjusted properly the TP will always be poking into the nose UNTIL you lift the Presser Bar/Foot, or if you have the ND set to zero which means no presser on the TRP from the bar of the ID.
You see that lifting the presser bar rocks the Tension Pin Releasing Lever over against the end of the TRP in the nose, which pushes the pin into the bar of the ID which pushes back on the BTS which releases the tension on the Tension Discs so you can place the thread in the tension assembly when threading the needle or remove your fabric from under the lifted presser foot.
*** If your Presser Foot is down and the TRP is not showing inside the nose, then either the Numerated Dial is set at zero, or the Assembly is not installed or adjusted properly. *** See? Easy!
BTW, if your tension assembly is not fully assembled, say you just have the stud and tension pin in place, there is nothing pushing the tension pin back into the nose, so if you lift the presser foot the pin is pushed into the stud in the nose, but won't come back out b/c the indicator dial and the beehive spring are not there to push back on it.
So that's it in a nutshell; the short version of tension theory 😊
This is excellent! I just inherited a 329K and it sews great but the tension assembly is pretty grimy. Now I can do it myself! Thanks so much!
You're welcome. Even though the 329K can not double-needle sew b/c of the needle plate and feed dog, it still has the three tension discs in the tension assembly. You'll feel right at home and find it rewarding to clean it. Good luck, and thanks for watching my channel.
Forgot to ask, why does it have 3 tension disks? For a double needle?
@@sms4925 Even though the 329K can not double-needle sew b/c of the needle plate and feed dog, it still has the three tension discs in the tension assembly. Models 327, 327K, 328, 328K, and 329K all use the same tension unit, but the 328, 328K models were the ones set up for double or two-needle sewing. BTW, if you need the instruction manual for your machine you can download it from Singer for free at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=329 Happy Sewing.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you so much-sorry, I see now where your first comment answered my question. I do have the original manual. Thanks so much.
@@sms4925 No worries about that 😊
Hi Andy, love your channel. I'm working on a singer 328K. While watching your video and trying to follow it I found that the "Thumb Nut" is not separated from the "Numerated Dial". How do I make it work properly with this type of thumb nut?
I'm at a loss to guide you 😞 I've never seen that on a Singer machine. If you ever post pictures of it please let us know.
Hi Andy.
Thanks, again for sharing all that you have to-date...marvellous!
Forgive me if you have already considered correcting yourself (in the 3 years since you posted this video) and I just haven't seen it....
..regarding the small 'plain washer' you found in the Thread Tension Unit?
I was working on a second such machine and, in both instances, had found such a washer within the unit. It seemed too much of a coincidence to me and my first thoughts are that it DOES belong there: I'm guessing that Singer used the same parts for this model 237 as with the 238 (do you call that a 'Genie' across the pond?). Whereas the 238 can accommodate twin needle sewing by utilising a third disc within the tension unit, the model 237 can't; it has just the two discs, leaving 'slack' within the unit which is taken up by the presence of the 'plain washer'. Do you think this is at all likely?
Howie
Greetings, Howie. A few things to unpack here. First, thanks for complimenting my channel. I appreciate it.
A few viewers mentioned that the original Singer parts list for this machine showed the washer. The latest was @alanjanos652 who commented about 3 months ago and I pinned his comment to the top of the comment section. As I replied to him I could not find a parts list at the time I was making the video but have since been given a copy by a viewer and can verify the parts number and the diagram shows the washer belongs there. This was a first for me and a few repair people I asked about it, so live and learn.
Your theory about why it is there vs the more advanced sister model seems very feasible to me, and better than anything I have discussed with others. You have great reasoning skills I'd say. If I could pin your comment along with @alanjanos652 I would, but I can only pin one.
The only model(s) I've seen here in the USA that were called "Genie" were the 353/354. The twins to those in the UK were called "starlet" if I remember correctly. Many years later Singer made another Starlet model.
Finally, I'm sure you meant to write models 327K and 328K in your comment.
Thanks for watching my channel, and keeping your machine(s) in service.
Hello! Thanks for sharing and the information!
I was able to take apart and clean the upper tension unit.
The disks of the upper tension are different from yours . There are 3 disks, but with different groves.
It doesn't have a stop waher. Neither a thumb nut with a pin on the back.
Sad to report that the issue is not solved yet.
Thank you so much for this video, I was able to clean the tension unit.
So what exactly IS the model number of your machine then?? 🤷♂
@@andytubesewing1953 Singer.
By the Stitch Length Regulator says 328k
Owner's manual : Singer Style-O-Matic 328
@@cocasio7190 thanks for the clarification I asked because the Way that you describe the tension doesn't match the tension unit that came from the factory like the one of my video so I don't know if somebody switched out the tension assembly before and they're usually made for a particular machine if somebody use one from a different model that may be causing some problems for you
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for your help!
I saw a video of the upper tension for a 403, and it's very similar to the one that the sewing machine has.
Thank you again!
Mr. Andy. Thank you so much for your help and patience with me.
Based on your experience, do you think that the upper tension stop washer could make a difference in the tension for proper stitching?
Great video, thanks Andy 😊 Susie
Thanks for the nice comment, Susie.
Hi Andy not long found your site I’m a fan already. I have a machine identical to yours but a 357K singer with I’m informed has an intermittent lower stitch looping problem which I’ve not been able to replicate . All tensions and timing seemed to be fine but like you I had an identical washer fall out of the thread tension assembly as I was taking it apart to check and clean it fell out with the pressure disc assembly but I didn’t see exactly it had been fitted
Hi, Ken. Thanks for watching my channel. The washer is part of this unique style assembly( for spacing). It goes behind the two tension discs toward the machine. So the tension thread guard, then two discs, then the washer. Here is a video for fixing the looping problem I had on this machine (that I caused) ua-cam.com/video/90Js3BXFz7I/v-deo.html
Hi Andy,
You were so kind to help me with my 329k model a few months back (tension issue). I was sewing with my machine yesterday and it suddenly froze. The bobbin housing is stuck, the wheel won’t turn, nor will the needle move. Do you have any suggestions on how to get the machine working again? I would appreciate your input. Many thanks!
Yikes! Was there a broken needle? Many times what you describe is b/c thread has wrapped around the hook and jammed the machine from turning. A broken needle or loose pin can jamb the hook underneath. Try to remove the bobbin case. It can jump off the race and get caught in the hook and that will stop the machine in a heartbeat! I had a couple of machines where the bushings were not oiled and finally got hot enough that they seized up until proper oiling was done. I'd try cleaning and oiling, looking for errant thread wrapping or a pin or screw where it does not belong. Follow the instruction manual closely for oiling the machine. If you need a copy it is available free from Singer at this link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=329 Always use sewing machine oil (SMO) or TriFlow oil.
Hi Andy!
Thanks for the link to the manual. I lifted the lever to the right of the bobbin case & that dislodged whatever was making it malfunction. Thank you again for your help!
@@marthaager1891 Whew! Happy to hear that 👍 I'm glad you're back in service.
That's my project for tomorrow😊 Cleaned, greased and oiled everything today except for the tension unit cause it is dirty and sticky. I'll let you know if I find a washer in mine👍
Dish soap works very nicely on those tension unit parts. I bet there is a washer. I was startled to find one, but it appears to be on the parts list. Have fun.
@@andytubesewing1953 oh ok I'll be careful not to lose the washer then👍 Thanks Andy
@@andytubesewing1953 happy to report I was successful with this project 😁👍but no washer in mine
@@caper695 Congrats! 👍When I'm asked about the washer in the future I'll have to reply it's 50-50 chance of being there.
@@andytubesewing1953 lol yes because I'm not having any issues with tension and stitches are beautiful 😁 Thanks Andy
Hi Andy, your videos are so helpful - thank you! I’ve been dismantling the tension assembly on my 327k in order to clean it. BUT, I forgot to take it back to zero (I know - very silly of me! going by my photos I took it was between 4 and 5). Is this going to cause me major issues? And do I just reassemble it as it was? Any advice would be much appreciated - thank you!!
In the end, good tension is a balance between the needle thread and the bobbin thread while sewing. The reason for the "Zero out" is to give you a big range of needle thread tension. This is especially important for Satin Stitch ZZ sewing. When you do wide ZZ sewing with a satin stitch (like buttonhole sewing with the stitching very close together; monogram stitching also) you may need to have only a tension setting of "1" or even a little less. In the end, if you can sew what you want to sew and the stitch is nice or "pretty" then what you did is OK. On my machine after a zero out maybe normal stitching is a range of 3 to 5 and for Satin Stitch maybe a 2 or 1. On your machine, it may be a 7 or 8 for normal sewing and 5 or 4 for wide Satin Stitch. If you can live with that then it doesn't matter. Really, you can zero out the tension unit at any time you like. You do not need to disassemble it again. Just start the video @ 39:45 and adjust the thumbscrew "pin" until you find the thread lightly lifts the check spring with the number dial set at zero.
@@andytubesewing1953 thank you for taking the time to reply, that is a very helpful way of looking at it, and I’m glad I haven’t completely screwed it up! The tension assembly is all shiny and clean now and I will reassemble it later today! Thanks again 😊
@@nikidawson8740 I think I misread your first comment, so embarrassed. How you took it apart doesn't really matter. Turning to zero before removing only makes it a little easier to disassemble. Now you can just reassemble as in the video and do the "Zero Out" part after it is back together. What I said about balanced tension is very true though. Each machine is an individual, like us, and my exact "setting" at zero out may be a little different from yours but both machines could sew the exact same tension. After cleaning and reinstalling you'll be happy with how well the tension works again.
Hello again Andy.
i have the 327k, i have done the tension unit, but i cannot seem to get it completely right, especially the zig zag. i have loosened the bobbin slightly, but there is still a little top thread showing underneath. loosened top thread also, but no different. is it the bobbin or top tension? Please help.
Thank you.
Regards,
Ann
OK, Ann. Be sure you use the correct size needle for the fabric, the smallest needle that will penetrate is usually better. If using a bigger needle, of course the hole it makes is bigger and allows the "knot" of the stitch to poke thru.
If the top thread is showing under the fabric that means the bobbin thread tension is stronger than the needle thread tension, so you would add more upper or needle thread tension. You can lower the bobbin thread tension, but it is always better to try to control the stitch balance by adjusting the upper thread tension. It's just easier to do (turn knob) than the bobbin tension. It is rare to have to change bobbin thread tension unless the screw is bad, the spring is full of lint/dirty. One out of 30 machines I restore I need to change bobbin tension. Usually, if the top tension seems OK the bobbin holder tension spring is dirty with krud or lint and I clean it with a pin or floss, or if metal I have even boiled it in water for a minute to flush stuff out.
This is great thanks Andy
Very welcome. I'm glad it helped. Thanks for commenting.
@@andytubesewing1953 my 329k runs like a top because of you I fixed the timing issue and zeroed the tension. Now I'm going to tackle my mom's 403 I'm not sure what's wrong yet. Much appreciation from a Canadian in his 30s
Nicely done, John! The 403A Special is a great machine. You can fix what ever is wrong. On my playlist page I have Regina the 403A, Vicky the 503A and a 56 video tutorial for model 404. There are videos in each playlist that can help with the 403A. ua-cam.com/channels/USPDsHaFtRoz1VA2U1xJ4w.htmlplaylists?view_as=public
Best of luck to you.
Hi Andy-
I have a 329k brown/bronze in color. I am having an issue with the thread tension dial. 1. My finger washer is not “hooked”. It just has a straight nodule. 2. The thumb nut has two pieces with a set pin on the larger piece, not a post (like yours). So, when I put the thread tension mechanism back together, the numerated dial does not move in unison with the thumb nut. I’m not sure if I am missing a part or not. When I watched your video, all the parts of the thread tension mechanism looked the same as yours, except the finger washer and the thumb nut (as mentioned above). If you can offer advice - it would be much appreciated.
Set screw. Martha, I looked at my parts list for model 329K and discovered the tension unit is different than the one Singer used on the 327K. It is unusual for them to do that on a family of models like that, but it sounds like you have the correct parts for your model. I think your assembly is the same as the model 401A/403A so please take a look at this video to see if it will help you get the tension set properly. ua-cam.com/video/eVLiED-FCA8/v-deo.html Good Luck.
Thank you so much Andy!! My 329k tension assembly is exactly like the 401A as shown in your video link. I will follow your instructions on that link & keep you posted.
@@marthaager1891 I had hoped it is, but thanks for the verification. Give it a go and I think it will work much better and make more sense of your parts. Good luck.
All systems go! Would like to make a donation to your fund. What’s your PayPal email?
@@marthaager1891👍Congratulations, and Thank You✨ www.paypal.com/paypalme/andytube
Andy do you or do you know if anyone has a video on the 327 … no K on my model ? Thank you for any help😊
The 327 in my video is the "SPARTAN" model, and a little cheaper to be more affordable. There's not really much difference in the 327/327K (K = made in Kilbowie, Scottland factory) You can try this popular video: ua-cam.com/video/FYmi9Gk2Obs/v-deo.html
You can download a free copy of the 327 Instruction Manual from the Singer SUpport page here: www.singer.com/search/support?title=327 You can buy and download the Service Manual for the models for $9.95 here:
manualsoncd.com/?s=327&post_type=product Thanks for watching my channel.
Great video. Where did you get your tension screwdriver? and is that what its' called?
it was made by the singer corporation and it was actually called small screwdriver versus the large screwdriver and they came in a set with most machines up until the late '50s I think you can usually find them on SD or eBay here's one I found today www.etsy.com/listing/641543634/singer-221-featherweight-blackside-small?gpla=1&gao=1&&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI-q-Elfqv4wIVfh6tBh3LpwC0EAkYASABEgJxGPD_BwE
it's a misnomer to call it a 221 featherweight they do that to try and charge more money but they came with many machines not only the 221 thanks for watching my channel. Vintage Simanco Singer 120378 small screwdriver
@@andytubesewing1953 Andy, I think Mark is talking about the split tip flat blade screwdriver that you pick up at the19:09 mark in your video
Terry I'm sure you are correct I miss that completely That's split tension screwdriver was given to me by a friend I believe he found it in the estate sale. I've been looking for more of them for the past year and I have never seen one anywhere☹️
@@andytubesewing1953 I bought my set of three different length screw drivers from Lee Valley Tools. They call them Quick-Wedge Slot screwdrivers (Made in USA)
www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57073&cat=1,43411,43417
@@andytubesewing1953 www.ebay.com/i/163491392234?chn=ps&var=462854722607&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=462854722607_163491392234&targetid=934793861976&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9061081&campaignid=10897343926&mkgroupid=106040611134&rlsatarget=pla-934793861976&abcId=9300403&merchantid=127685167&gclid=CjwKCAiAn7L-BRBbEiwAl9UtkOMehw2g5yD3ZiGb3Oqu592T8WEmcw2toGMZf259dDJp0AQ3K0gpwhoC9rcQAvD_BwE
Hi Andy, I was wondering if you have a video on just the Singer 328K? I picked one up the other day. no manual . For the life of me, I can't find the light switch. Don't laugh LOL. I'm cleaning it up and it is looking good. Also, I want to thank you so much for all your videos.
Hey, I'm not LOL. Well... maybe. If you don't see a push-button on/off switch about 3" directly above the light cover plate then your particular version of the 328K does not have a separate light switch. The light comes on when the cord is plugged into the wall socket and goes out when you unplug. I believe the 328/328K was made in three factories with three slightly different colors (maybe it was two?) and only one version has the separate light switch. You can download a couple of free Instruction Manuals from Singer, One is labeled "328 1360" and right below it is a multi-model manual for nine different "Family" sewing machines that includes info for models 327K/328K. Here is the link: www.singer.com/search/support?title=328
Here is my entire 18 video Playlist for model 327K: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
Here is 20 video Playlist for model 338K: ua-cam.com/users/playlist list=PLsCOZgzzaiKK4y8dsq3oMKJFTGsoNJWmi
I mention model 338K b/c it's the next generation of model 328K and has mostly the same mechanical parts.
I've never had the pleasure of working on a 328K. The 338K is much more popular in my area. Maybe it's the blue color?
Thanks for watching my channel, Leah, and good luck.
@@andytubesewing1953 You are awesome! Thank you, I have been looking everywhere for a manual. You are right, once I cleaned and oiled the machine I plugged it up and the light came on. :) I also have the 338k and love the color. I'm sure that's why they are so popular. Thank you for making all these great videos. Have a wonderful evening.
@@leahquesenberry2958 you are very welcome Lee I'm glad singer is still making the manuals available they stopped letting us download the parts list That's a nice pair of beautiful metal machines you have with the 327 and the 338 congratulations
@@andytubesewing1953 where I can buy a feed regulating knob please
@@mariamezano7431 Sometimes you can buy new small parts like that from online sellers like this one, just search under the model number. www.sewingpartsonline.com/?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIseDWx4n_6QIVEh-tBh2D-gW4EAAYASAAEgIbNPD_BwE For most replacement parts on vintage machines you can search on eBay for a seller who is "parting out" a machine and see if they have the part(s) you need.
Hi. i have the 327 model and it is not picking up the bobbin thread. Any suggestions?
Hi, Kelly. Do you mean you cannot bring up the bobbin thread to begin sewing? Or you can sew like skipping stitches? Is this a new machine for you? Did it work before this? Common reasons: wrong type of needle, bent needle, needle inserted backward, Needle not installed all the way up into the needle camp, or dirt in the needle clamp preventing full insertion of the needle, bobbin inserted backward direction, needle bar height is too high or low, needle to hook point timing is off. More info please and we can solve this together.
@@andytubesewing1953 Hello again. This is a machine I just got from a family member. I don't know when it was used last. It will not bring the thread up. I have the bobbin inserted the correct way. When I turn the arm it feels like the tension is way too tight on the bobbin cartridge once it's loaded into the bobbin case. The needle is good and inserted correctly. I hope this helps.
Thanks for the update, Kelly. If I'm understanding, the needle thread does wrap around the bobbin thread as it should, but the bobbin thread cannot be pulled up through the needle plate. If that is the case, you can clean and adjust the bobbin case and adjust the tension. I made a video about your bobbin case that may help:
ua-cam.com/video/HT5XZ5eYYEQ/v-deo.html I use a gauge in the video but people adjust the tension by feel also when no gauge is available. Pull on the bobbin thread by hand before you clean and adjust and then adjust for less tension. You may need to adjust it a few times before you find a balance between the two threads.
@@andytubesewing1953 Yes that is correct. I will try cleaning the bobbin case. I'm not sure I will be able to adjust the tension correctly but I'll try. One other question. Does it require me th use a metal bobbin?
Our can i use a universal plastic?
IMO, the plastic is OK but either way it MUST be a class 66 bobbin.
www.sewingpartsonline.com/bobbins-singer-class-66-172336-s.aspx
www.singer.com/Singer-Class-66-Bobbins-Metal
singer-featherweight.com/products/bobbin-tension-meter
Mine has a washer too.
I having issues with my singer 327k and have the exact same odd washer?
Hold on please, I'm still trying to answer the tension question you left 30 minutes ago. Actually, watching this video in the meantime may help you. I'll post more soon.
How frustrating for you. Yes, I have some ideas. I do not know if this skipping just suddenly developed, or if the machine is new to you and you are trying to use it for the first time. You said you tried “everything” but I’m not sure what all that includes so if I mention something you’ve tried, sorry.
1. The most common cause is a worn needle. Yep, replace that needle with a brand-new needle of the proper size for your 327k (Catalog 2020, better known as 15x1) and correct size for your thread and fabric. If you do not have one you can download a free copy of the Instruction Manual for Singer at this link: www.singer.com/sites/default/files/outdated_product/SINGER%20327%20and%20327K%20Sewing%20Machine.pdf The needle & thread chart is on page 4.
Pull out the needle thread all the way back to the spool and rethread the needle again. Page 9 of the manual has directions for threading the needle. Also, a poorly wound bobbin can cause skipping. The bobbin should be wound properly with equal distribution and under tension, so it is evenly wound. If you suspect a problem, then rewind a new bobbin (class 66 for your model) as shown on pages 6 & 7.
If you have not done so already, clean or at least brush the tension unit. Here is a link to the 327K tension unit video: ua-cam.com/video/d4k2wlDFsj0/v-deo.html You may have already seen this video but people reading our comments may not have.
Clean the bobbin area well, including the feed dog. Page 26 & 27 show how to remove & replace the throat (needle) plate and bobbin case for cleaning.
Now try to sew a straight stitch #10 length and a moderate speed. Do not push or pull the fabric but let the feed dog do its job of moving the fabric in time with the needle stroke.
If you still are skipping here are other possible causes that I have experienced on vintage Singer sewing machines. No particular order here, just as they come to mind.
2. Unbalanced thread tension between needle and bobbin threads, usually fixed by using more or less tension on the needle thread tension unit. Thread tension is covered on pages 14 & 15.
3. Low pressure on the presser bar, presser bar height wrong, worn feed dog, wrong type presser foot. The idea here is the fabric is “slipping” and not moving properly in time with the needle. See page 13 for Pressure Settings.
4. Needle Bar height is incorrect. Video for that is here: ua-cam.com/video/3IcqC_4q4Dc/v-deo.html
5. That goes along with needle to hook point timing which is this video: ua-cam.com/video/u5CwVH7RyaI/v-deo.html
Those above are the most common. There are other more technical issues, like centering the needle in the needle plate hole, the distance of needlepoint to hook point, etc. but start with these, changing the needle first thing. Here is the link to the entire playlist for model 327K: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKKHFzTFVJrwVQT6hMfXxFHt.html
@@andytubesewing1953 I've had the machine a while used it a little mainly straight stitching. Shes sat a few months not being used, I'm wondering if my kids have done something to it. I've cleaned and oiled. Worked through lots of your tutorials, Only thing I haven't tried is the timing, looks to me like it may be ever so slightly off from your images.
@@allibobs666 Since it worked before you are correct to clean and oil it. A few times I found the needle not inserted all the way up into the needle clamp b/c it was dirty inside and blocked full insertion. Oil drips inside and gets hard. I have found plenty of dull/bent needles. So before you change the timing besure your needle bar is set at the right height. Your model is all metal shafts underneath and does not have a belt that can slip. It is really rare for the timing to go out unless someone was fooling around down there. You're on the right track to find the problem. Good Luck.
My "Spartan 327K" (s/n ET136706) had the same "odd washer" in the tension unit. To the best of my knowledge, this machine has never been serviced by Singer since it was purchased directly from a Singer store back in the early 1960's.
When I dismantled the tension unit, the "extra washer" was found between the rear tension (saucer-shaped) washer and the larger portion of the catch spring. The wear pattern on the washer indicated that it had been in that position for many years (decades?), so I have to assume that it was a factory-installed piece. I reassembled the tension unit exactly as described in this video, but did install the "odd washer" back in the same location where it was found on disassembly.
I need to repair the tensión unit singer modelos tutoriales
Models 466 please
Here is the closest I have to the model 466 tension ua-cam.com/video/JqauIOWs9CI/v-deo.html
You can buy a service manual here manualsoncd.com/product/singer-400-series-service-and-repair-sewing-machine-manual/
✨