▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼ ★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★ Ridge Carbide's Premium Saw blades (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k *My table saw and other great shop machines are from Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/ *Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!* (If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission) *Some other useful links:* -More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/ -Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/ -Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/ -Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/ -Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs ★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★ -123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij -Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK -Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv -Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9 -Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg -Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK -Self-Centering Punch: amzn.to/2QvbcrC -Self-Centering Bits: amzn.to/2xs71UW -Angle Cube: lddy.no/10nam -Steel Ruler: lddy.no/10mv7 -Utility knife: amzn.to/3nfhIiv -Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak -Bit & Blade Cleaner: amzn.to/2TfvEOI -Digital depth gauge: amzn.to/3mwRf2x -Wood Glue: amzn.to/3mqek6M -Spade Bits: amzn.to/3j8XPtD
Clever technique. I admire your conscientious respect for safety. Something I think about when I'm about to make a cut that might be a bit risky is "am I really comfortable doing this?" If no, then I either find a less risky way, or I don't make the cut. Nothing is important enough to risk your hands for.
I love the fact that you give the safest option and a if you can't spare the extra material option. The fact that you took the time to show blade close up footage of each option being ran through table saw. Shows truly care about you're viewers safety. Which I've always gotten great information from your videos and I just happen across this one because I was wanting to make an cross cut bevel on my table saw for the 1st time watch a different video another video of yours help more with the information I really needed.but this just showed me that I was right to be concerned on making my first beveled crosscut.
You must have read my mind SN! I just tried making this type of a cut about an hour ago as I need the piece for a project that I am about to start. I never thought about attaching the first cut off to another board to make that second cut! Thanks so much for this explainer video! 👍👍👏👏
These new tip videos have been amazing, advanced level wood worker tips, not the typical “UA-cam” “5 woodworking tips”. The recent dado video was amazing. I tried it the other day, and it changed my dado game forever😊
Yes, I have a triangular hole just like that in the plasterboard behind my table saw. Even though I was using push sticks and standing to one side, it’s not something I would ever want to repeat! Thanks for the tips.
I use double back tape all the time to connect two pieces of wood togeather for narrow cuts. I have been injured twice by the table saw blade once by a kickback and once pushing a cut off away from the blade, a injury which is healing up as we speak. I have no excuses. I enjoy your videos keep them coming.
@Stumpy Nubs. Working on my first glue up on my Oak coffee table. I find woodworking to be therapeutic. Thanks for all the videos, they have been extremely helpful
I've used both of those tricks, looking to make minimum-mass glue blocks for inside some joinery. I finally decided to make the right angles with vertical cuts. It does waste some wood, but it is easier on the nerves. I also decided that I needed to put more thought into the design stage.
I purchased the ridge carbine table saw blade after I saw it on your channel a few years ago and I love it. I also purchased a miter saw blade from the same company to. These saw blades are awesome
Hello Stumpy Nubs, I’m new to your channel and have subscribed👍 This video couldn’t have come at a better time, I’m trying to replicate a piece that my father made 55 years ago and I couldn’t figure out how to do it safely on the table saw. Thank you very much for your detailed explanations and for your safety considerations! Take care, Wayne
I have had to make cuts like this before! Really made me nervous, but these tips are totally awesome! Thank You so much. I’ll save this video for later use.
Great information. And a good reminder that if you stop and think you can come up with a better/safer way to do something sketchy. As someone who had a table saw injury a few years ago, trust me, it's worth ANY amount of extra time it takes to make a cut safely.
Another great tip and real experience-based recommendation. I had exactly the same need to make some long DIY dovetail sliders with narrow stock and had a hard time keeping them from sliding around the second cut on the same stock. Of course, I had a couple of close calls with the stock and just wanted to kick back but in my case just ruined the piece. Your method is by far the safest and I am glad you share such videos that should prevent so many from injury or worse
I watch all of your table saw videos, and I'm certainly much more safe as a result. Thanks. Would you consider a video on how to approach this challenge: When installing 6 or 7 inch plank flooring such as wood or solid core vinyl you need to rip the last pieces that meet the walls. Unfortunately the wall is rarely square to the floor layout and you need to maintain a fairly consistent gap for expansion that will also be covered by trim. The safe way would be to use a jig saw (very slow) or a bandsaw (none at the job site) or a circular saw (yikes). I've seen folk use a table saw and freehand it (scary, foolish...) How would you do it?
Bought a blade using your link and promo code. I'm really hoping they are better than the "devil" blades. I've been looking for a thick blade for finish work.
Thank you for this alternative - safer technique. There always seems to be a workaround to do things safely and/or with limited tools. I have an older Delta table saw with a right tilting blade - i.e. tilts toward the fence rather than away from it. I am unable to get it to make a 45 degree mitre cut. It keeps binding and ultimately powers out. I have tried using a crosscut sled and installing a temporary fence on the left side of the blade. Nothing seems to work. the only thing that has worked for me is using a "jointing sled" (a sled with dovetail clamps inserted into grooves on the sled) but that leaves the edge being cut completely unsupported from below. Might you have any solutions for this issue? I can't find anything online that explores/explains this issue. Many thanks for you amazing contributions to wood butchers like me.
Better than the bandsaw, IMO. I recently decided next round of French cleats I'm doing on the track saw. Just going to have to figure out some parallel guides to make it faster.
I have a similar cut I am thinking about making on a table saw. So I did a search on UA-cam and came accross your post. I am making several floating shelves out of quar-ter-sawn white oak. The top and bottom are going to be 12" not a problem with making the beveled miter cuts. The face and the ends of the shelf is 2" all boards are jointed and milled to 3/4" this will give me a 1/2" flat area between the bottom of opposing 45 deg. bevels on the 2" boards. Do you think 1/2" is enough serface area to reference on the table saw to make the second bevel cut? Each shelf is 58" long and the boards are 60" long. I have 12 of them to make. My other option is using a lock-miter router bit on the router table. But I think that may have more risk than the table saw in this case. Any comments or suggestions are appreciated Thank you
I have a mangled thumb due to a similar cut. Would it be (comparatively) safe to cut a 45 degree cut, and then tip the work piece 45 degrees such that the cut edge is against the saw. Then cut a 90 degree cut. Possibly with a sled instead of using the fence.
I am a long-time machinist but a brand-new lumber jockey. I am all about anything to do with table saw safety. That thing absolutely terrifies me! I thought the metal working machinery was out to kill me... I had no idea!
Stupid noob question for y'all. What are the downsides to just having another featherboard up ahead of the blade, as well as, the one in the beginning of the mitre track (besides from the cost of having to purchase two etc)?
As just a random commentor, I want to ask: is the constraint space or budget? I've never seen a budget portable TS worth messing with, but I've seen loads of $150-$250 vintage table saws that are about as good as anything under 600 bucks these days. At the high end of price, there may be a portable worth owning. Like a Festool, saw stop, etc. A SCMS is great to have, but it won't rip. It probably won't be great for most joinery operations. A table saw on the other hand does anything with the right jigs. Have to say, if I could only own one powered saw in the world, it would be a high quality bandsaw. Love my table saw, but a bandsaw, some hand planes, and a maybe a router table would muddle me through anything, I think.
Thanks, great safety tip. Though I am not sure if double sided tape is the best solution. Double sided tapes have a strong adhesive but when put against a spinning saw on a table, I doubt if it will pass the test.
Well at least it isn't just me. When I cut small pieces they almost always seem to catch on the blade and fly off. Fortunately I'm aware it can happen and try to stay well away but it doesn't make it any less disturbing. The pieces sometimes just rotate into the blade as the final sliver of wood is removed. I've been considering making an angled cut sled to deal with the problem.
Good morning I’ve just come across your videos and subscribed , I’ve recently started making items from copper pipe, and I use a CA glue called Super Fast Plus, it glued the joints but it seems rather brittle and I don’t want to sell things that might at a later date break, I’ve seen a glue on E bay called Just for copper pro , which is made in America , have you come across it or could you recommend a good glue for bonding copper pipes . I made 4 I pad stands for my grandchildren which I soldered , which is very strong but a lot of items made from copper pipe on E Bay haven’t been soldered and look a lot neater , I live in the north of England and the only place I can buy Just For Copper Pro is E bay and it’s 42 Dollars or £35 sterling thanks Peter
I can't see how much that discount code is good for. It just says pay now. I'm not ready to use it but I just wanted to see how much it would discount. I bought a 12" Ridge Carbide blade for my miter saw a while ago and it's the best blade I've ever used. I need one for my new sawstop now
I would not of thought of the double sided tape, I would have been concerned that the tape would fail and cause a kickback. I have not used double sided tape enough to trust it, I'm seeing it being used a lot more than I would of considered though.
If you think bevels are scary on modern saws, go find one of the antique tilt table saws, where the blades fixed and the tabletop tilts to accomplish the angle.
What about a sled sort of thing to support the back side of the wedge. Slide it through with the piece to be cut. I'd definitely find a better way to do it. Even you got your finger far closer to the blade than I would feel comfortable doing.
First, I am a self taught woodworker, so keep in mind I am not an authority in the subject. I have noticed you never stand directly behind the wood to the left of the table saw blade. I alway do this too, out of fear of being shot with the wood. I am always as careful as I can be, but I don’t use the blade guard. It just seems to always get in the way or leave scratch marks on the wood. I have a cheap Hitachi job site table saw, which has never let me down. My question is, do they make a better guard that is universal and would not get in the way? Keep in mind I’m on a budget, so high dollar equipment is not feasible. Thanks.
Unfortunately, there is no universal guard that is affordable for limited budgets. I would try to improve the one you have. Maybe figure out what's sharp that's scratching the wood.
![[UA] NAVI vs MOUZ | BO5 | IEM Rio 2024](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/CMBYk0cbGoA/mqdefault.jpg)
▼EXPAND THIS SECTION FOR IMPORTANT INFO▼
★THIS VIDEO WAS MADE POSSIBLE BY★
Ridge Carbide's Premium Saw blades (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
*My table saw and other great shop machines are from Harvey Woodworking Machinery: www.harveywoodworking.com/
*Please help support us by using the link above for a quick look around!*
(If you use one of these affiliate links, we may receive a small commission)
*Some other useful links:*
-More videos on our website: stumpynubs.com/
-Subscribe to our e-Magazine: stumpynubs.com/browse-and-subscribe/
-Check out our project plans: stumpynubs.com/product-category/plans/
-Instagram: instagram.com/stumpynubs/
-Twitter: twitter.com/StumpyNubs
★SOME OF MY FAVORITE CHEAP TOOLS★
-123 Blocks: lddy.no/vpij
-Mechanical Pencils: amzn.to/2PA7bwK
-Lumber pencil: amzn.to/2QtwZjv
-Pocket Measuring Tape: amzn.to/2kNTlI9
-Irwin Drill Bit Gauge: amzn.to/2AwTkQg
-Nut/Bolt/Screw Gauge: amzn.to/2CuvxSK
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-Center-Finding Ruler: lddy.no/10nak
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★SOME OF MY FAVORITE HAND TOOLS★
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Clever technique. I admire your conscientious respect for safety. Something I think about when I'm about to make a cut that might be a bit risky is "am I really comfortable doing this?" If no, then I either find a less risky way, or I don't make the cut. Nothing is important enough to risk your hands for.
_"What would Stumpy do?"_ 😉
When in doubt, DON’T!
You have the best wood working and safety tips on UA-cam. Clear and concise
I picked up one of those feather boards based on your rec and it's fantastic. The foam fingers are definitely an upgrade.
I love the fact that you give the safest option and a if you can't spare the extra material option. The fact that you took the time to show blade close up footage of each option being ran through table saw. Shows truly care about you're viewers safety. Which I've always gotten great information from your videos and I just happen across this one because I was wanting to make an cross cut bevel on my table saw for the 1st time watch a different video another video of yours help more with the information I really needed.but this just showed me that I was right to be concerned on making my first beveled crosscut.
You must have read my mind SN! I just tried making this type of a cut about an hour ago as I need the piece for a project that I am about to start. I never thought about attaching the first cut off to another board to make that second cut! Thanks so much for this explainer video! 👍👍👏👏
The planets must be aligned! I just tried to do the same yesterday. I gave up after the first because it was too dangerous
Thank you for another perfect video. No mus no fus, just the meat. Much appreciated sir!
Thank you. Future reference for cutting any and all small stock and I cut a LOT of it.
These new tip videos have been amazing, advanced level wood worker tips, not the typical “UA-cam” “5 woodworking tips”.
The recent dado video was amazing. I tried it the other day, and it changed my dado game forever😊
Great tip. It is indeed one of the sketchiest cuts to make with small widths.
You're one of the smartest men in woodworking currently. Keep it up, thanks for the tips
Great tip, adding to my fav vids on woodworking. Thanks!
The Ridge saw blade he mentions are by far the best blades made and are reasonably priced
When a task seems risky, stop and think how to do it more safely. I like Stumpy's solution.
Funny! I just came in from the shop to take a break before making 8 beveled strips! Now I know what to do. Thank you!
Never thought of it that way. Thank you for everything that you do.
Yes, I have a triangular hole just like that in the plasterboard behind my table saw. Even though I was using push sticks and standing to one side, it’s not something I would ever want to repeat! Thanks for the tips.
Thanks a bunch for the tip, James! 😊
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
I use double back tape all the time to connect two pieces of wood togeather for narrow cuts. I have been injured twice by the table saw blade once by a kickback and once pushing a cut off away from the blade, a injury which is healing up as we speak. I have no excuses. I enjoy your videos keep them coming.
You are my favorite source for woodworking info. That’s sure is a cool looking table saw. I think I may have to get me one of those.
@Stumpy Nubs. Working on my first glue up on my Oak coffee table. I find woodworking to be therapeutic. Thanks for all the videos, they have been extremely helpful
I've used both of those tricks, looking to make minimum-mass glue blocks for inside some joinery. I finally decided to make the right angles with vertical cuts. It does waste some wood, but it is easier on the nerves. I also decided that I needed to put more thought into the design stage.
I purchased the ridge carbine table saw blade after I saw it on your channel a few years ago and I love it. I also purchased a miter saw blade from the same company to. These saw blades are awesome
I just ordered a blade too! I'm hoping they are good.
@@itaintrocketscience trust me that you are
Very good! One of the best tips of the last year! Thank you from Germany.
Thanks for helping to keep us safe.
Another good one with safety in mind. Keep 'em coming!
Hello Stumpy Nubs, I’m new to your channel and have subscribed👍 This video couldn’t have come at a better time, I’m trying to replicate a piece that my father made 55 years ago and I couldn’t figure out how to do it safely on the table saw. Thank you very much for your detailed explanations and for your safety considerations! Take care, Wayne
Outstanding hint and demonstration video. You are the best of the best. Thanks young man.
Very helpful for sure. I often have to make that exact piece for miter fold shelves because they move on the CNC. THANK YOU...
Great tip. Thanks. Any project videos coming. I remember one that was mentioned, a foldable woorstation for small spaces?
I have had to make cuts like this before! Really made me nervous, but these tips are totally awesome! Thank You so much. I’ll save this video for later use.
Great advice. I would probably not have thought about it until I was making the cut. Now I will. Thanks.
Thank you for solving problems and keeping us safe!
Great information. And a good reminder that if you stop and think you can come up with a better/safer way to do something sketchy. As someone who had a table saw injury a few years ago, trust me, it's worth ANY amount of extra time it takes to make a cut safely.
Wish this video would of come out about three weeks ago....good tip ! Thank you !!!! I'll be sure to remember that for next time
Thanks for the information. Nothing but good ideas come out of the Stumpy Nubs shop. Take care and have a great day.🙂🙂
Clever, simple, safe. And obvious after you see it done. Thanks for the tip.
Thanks for sharing those tips and the make!
Thanks for this video, sometimes im inclined to be reckless in the shop, but often remember this safety videos and take precautions. Thanks again!
Clever solution, very instructive
Another great tip and real experience-based recommendation. I had exactly the same need to make some long DIY dovetail sliders with narrow stock and had a hard time keeping them from sliding around the second cut on the same stock. Of course, I had a couple of close calls with the stock and just wanted to kick back but in my case just ruined the piece. Your method is by far the safest and I am glad you share such videos that should prevent so many from injury or worse
Brilliant
Thanks for keeping us from HAVING Stumpy Nubs
Well done, intelligent options...
We can always count on you for excellent tips & knowledge.
Thank you.
Slick as a whistle!! Great advice James. Stay safe and keep up the problem solving and fun. Fred.
Great solution. Thanks for the info.
I watch all of your table saw videos, and I'm certainly much more safe as a result. Thanks. Would you consider a video on how to approach this challenge:
When installing 6 or 7 inch plank flooring such as wood or solid core vinyl you need to rip the last pieces that meet the walls. Unfortunately the wall is rarely square to the floor layout and you need to maintain a fairly consistent gap for expansion that will also be covered by trim. The safe way would be to use a jig saw (very slow) or a bandsaw (none at the job site) or a circular saw (yikes). I've seen folk use a table saw and freehand it (scary, foolish...) How would you do it?
Bought a blade using your link and promo code. I'm really hoping they are better than the "devil" blades. I've been looking for a thick blade for finish work.
Thank you for this alternative - safer technique. There always seems to be a workaround to do things safely and/or with limited tools. I have an older Delta table saw with a right tilting blade - i.e. tilts toward the fence rather than away from it. I am unable to get it to make a 45 degree mitre cut. It keeps binding and ultimately powers out. I have tried using a crosscut sled and installing a temporary fence on the left side of the blade. Nothing seems to work. the only thing that has worked for me is using a "jointing sled" (a sled with dovetail clamps inserted into grooves on the sled) but that leaves the edge being cut completely unsupported from below. Might you have any solutions for this issue? I can't find anything online that explores/explains this issue. Many thanks for you amazing contributions to wood butchers like me.
Well done video, I love the double sided tape trick.
Thanks for Yuen tip.
Safety first. Love these videos!
This guy is the best!!
Darn GREAT video! Thanks. This was a cut I had been wondering about!
Very clever, well done.
Excellent tip, thanks✌️
love your videos and professionalism sir
I have nothing to say really, but I appreciate your content, and wish to help with the yt-algorithms.
Nice idea! I'm going to remember that!
This week I had to make the exact same thing.
After trying a test cut on the table saw I said nope and pulled out the track saw - it was much easier.
Better than the bandsaw, IMO. I recently decided next round of French cleats I'm doing on the track saw.
Just going to have to figure out some parallel guides to make it faster.
great stuff James...
I have a similar cut I am thinking about making on a table saw. So I did a search on UA-cam and came accross your post.
I am making several floating shelves out of quar-ter-sawn white oak. The top and bottom are going to be 12" not a problem with making the beveled miter cuts. The face and the ends of the shelf is 2" all boards are jointed and milled to 3/4" this will give me a 1/2" flat area between the bottom of opposing 45 deg. bevels on the 2" boards. Do you think 1/2" is enough serface area to reference on the table saw to make the second bevel cut? Each shelf is 58" long and the boards are 60" long. I have 12 of them to make. My other option is using a lock-miter router bit on the router table. But I think that may have more risk than the table saw in this case.
Any comments or suggestions are appreciated
Thank you
You really are an amazing resource! Thanks.
Great tips thanks for sharing
I have a mangled thumb due to a similar cut.
Would it be (comparatively) safe to cut a 45 degree cut, and then tip the work piece 45 degrees such that the cut edge is against the saw.
Then cut a 90 degree cut.
Possibly with a sled instead of using the fence.
Nicely done!!
I am a long-time machinist but a brand-new lumber jockey. I am all about anything to do with table saw safety.
That thing absolutely terrifies me! I thought the metal working machinery was out to kill me... I had no idea!
Since you've stopped showing your planes behind you, I've watched every video you make to the end.
Awesome solution ❤
That's gold! Thank you
Great Idea, thank you
Can you guys do a follow up on the Harvey table saw after it’s been in the shop now for some time?
Thx for the great videos. 👍
Love your tips!
Stupid noob question for y'all. What are the downsides to just having another featherboard up ahead of the blade, as well as, the one in the beginning of the mitre track (besides from the cost of having to purchase two etc)?
I was thinking of the double sided tape method too but I was going to tape the thin piece on top of a wider piece and raise the blade up accordingly.
I think that would be more difficult to align perfectly.
smart and simple
Masterful.
Mr. Stumpy. Can you share a little advice?
I'm a very limited DIY and was trying to decide between buying a portable table saw or a sliding miter saw.
As just a random commentor, I want to ask: is the constraint space or budget?
I've never seen a budget portable TS worth messing with, but I've seen loads of $150-$250 vintage table saws that are about as good as anything under 600 bucks these days. At the high end of price, there may be a portable worth owning. Like a Festool, saw stop, etc.
A SCMS is great to have, but it won't rip. It probably won't be great for most joinery operations. A table saw on the other hand does anything with the right jigs.
Have to say, if I could only own one powered saw in the world, it would be a high quality bandsaw. Love my table saw, but a bandsaw, some hand planes, and a maybe a router table would muddle me through anything, I think.
So we use a jig on our saw with the blade vertical timber triangles fixed to a board each side of the blade then run your stock through no kick back
what is the safest way to cut an extreme bevel (over 45degrees) on a 2x10 ?
Great tip!
Thanks, great safety tip. Though I am not sure if double sided tape is the best solution. Double sided tapes have a strong adhesive but when put against a spinning saw on a table, I doubt if it will pass the test.
You just saw it pass the test in this video. Use wood turner's PSA tape. The bond is very strong.
Wood turners tape is very strong, but I've used carpet tape for years and never had a saw break the bond.
People have used double sided tape to hold parts in metal machining.
Good tip
Well at least it isn't just me. When I cut small pieces they almost always seem to catch on the blade and fly off. Fortunately I'm aware it can happen and try to stay well away but it doesn't make it any less disturbing. The pieces sometimes just rotate into the blade as the final sliver of wood is removed. I've been considering making an angled cut sled to deal with the problem.
Good morning I’ve just come across your videos and subscribed , I’ve recently started making items from copper pipe, and I use a CA glue called Super Fast Plus, it glued the joints but it seems rather brittle and I don’t want to sell things that might at a later date break, I’ve seen a glue on E bay called Just for copper pro , which is made in America , have you come across it or could you recommend a good glue for bonding copper pipes . I made 4 I pad stands for my grandchildren which I soldered , which is very strong but a lot of items made from copper pipe on E Bay haven’t been soldered and look a lot neater , I live in the north of England and the only place I can buy Just For Copper Pro is E bay and it’s 42 Dollars or £35 sterling thanks Peter
Leave it to James to figure it out! Woodworking master!
I haven't used a Bandsaw in over 30 years.
I have no room for one with my current set up.
How would a Bandsaw be safer for this, or any cut?
Bandsaws cut straight downward and at slower speeds. They do not kick back.
Good one.
I can't see how much that discount code is good for. It just says pay now. I'm not ready to use it but I just wanted to see how much it would discount. I bought a 12" Ridge Carbide blade for my miter saw a while ago and it's the best blade I've ever used. I need one for my new sawstop now
It should show the discount in your cart before you complete the transaction.
@@StumpyNubs that's what I was expecting. Maybe a glitch. I'll try again
Great Tips!
thanks
I would not of thought of the double sided tape, I would have been concerned that the tape would fail and cause a kickback. I have not used double sided tape enough to trust it, I'm seeing it being used a lot more than I would of considered though.
If you think bevels are scary on modern saws, go find one of the antique tilt table saws, where the blades fixed and the tabletop tilts to accomplish the angle.
What about a sled sort of thing to support the back side of the wedge. Slide it through with the piece to be cut.
I'd definitely find a better way to do it. Even you got your finger far closer to the blade than I would feel comfortable doing.
How about doing make it in router table? That will also require a jig I presume.
Great tip wish I knew this in 8\22 kickback broke my thumb in 4 places
Your the best
First, I am a self taught woodworker, so keep in mind I am not an authority in the subject. I have noticed you never stand directly behind the wood to the left of the table saw blade. I alway do this too, out of fear of being shot with the wood. I am always as careful as I can be, but I don’t use the blade guard. It just seems to always get in the way or leave scratch marks on the wood. I have a cheap Hitachi job site table saw, which has never let me down. My question is, do they make a better guard that is universal and would not get in the way? Keep in mind I’m on a budget, so high dollar equipment is not feasible. Thanks.
Unfortunately, there is no universal guard that is affordable for limited budgets. I would try to improve the one you have. Maybe figure out what's sharp that's scratching the wood.
Round over the edges of the guard with some sand paper.
That’s the very one reason to invest in a SawStop