Brilliant and works perfectly for UK systems as well. The new motor cost me just under £15 and I fitted it myself as per your instructions. We are now all toasty again. Thank you.
Thanks for this video! You saved me a few hundred dollars at least. One of my zones was stuck in the heating mode and getting very hot. I ordered a valve for 60$ Canadian off Amazon and did it myself. It worked! You didn’t mention if the power should be shut off but just to be safe I switched it off to my boiler before completing the job.
Just found your vid and promptly canabalised a working but lightly used motorised valve to replace the motor in the heavily used main heating valve which has just popped. Great fix for a cold Sunday night in January. Thanks you for this!
Your videos were very helpful today. Usually when I have had trouble it has been the end switches. This time it was the powerhead. I had an old one someone had given me. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you. I did everything you described and was able to change the motor successfully. So far its working great. I truly appreciate you and people like you.
Thanks for the Video! I thought it was funny because I just finished created a video called " Whats's Inside a Honeywell Zone Valve " - You are correct, it does not matter which wire is hot and neutral.
Great video, My heat was staying on even with it turn off. It was 72 to 75 degrees. I know it was the zone value or motor. Just to add if you can push that tab on top of the zone value to the left with no resistance or its does not spring back its the motor. It looks simple and it is , but watching the video help me replace it in 15 minutes and the motor was 40.00 at Home depot. I sure today a plumber would charge 300.00 or more.
Couple remarks to your video. With DC current it does matter polarity of the current as the motor will turn in an opposite direction. Also, you should add a disclaimer to your video to always isolate electrics. Most of these valves are supplied with 240V AC and some people can get hurt. Also, even on a low voltage with loose wires hanging around can shorter and damage something. Always isolate electrics before attempting this sort of diy repair people.
Good video save me $290 plumber try to charge $330 dollars for the job. So I went to home depot got the motor for $40 dollars and I minus his price and did it myself and saved $290 dollars. Everything works good thanks again.
Thank you and I must say it was nicely done considering you did not have a camera assistant. It's exactly what I needed. I deployed the manual override switch so I have heat in the zone (I have 4 zones) that failed for now. Going to pick up the new motor tomorrow. A friend of mine that is an HVAC installer/repair technician told me the motor is usually the part that fails on the zone valve. Just as you said in your video.
Swapped it out today. One screw, orange to orange and yellow to yellow on the wires, couple of wire nuts and about 15 minutes work. The faulty zone is circulating hot water once again.
!!! Caution: many countries (such as the UK, EU) use visually identical kit - but it runs on 240V (!!!) and not 24V as shown in this video! I expect most viewers realised that anyways, but just saying :) Also, in the EU/UK - technically... only qualified electricians are allowed to alter 240V wiring. But hey, shshsh... just turn off the mains first people! These valves are pretty poor in my experience. Sure wish they all operated on a nice, safe 24V! Thanks for the vid.
It seems to me it's a pretty bad idea not turning it off even with the 24V system. Sure it won't give you a jolt, but working on it hot means you might short it out and maybe damage the controller or at least blow a fuse. BTW, my understanding of the rules in the UK is that you can replace existing installations except maybe in bathrooms and kitchens... is that not right?
Always disconnect power when working on any wireing. If you are putting it in manual mode I assume you are safe but it still wont hurt to disconnect the motor power while you wait for a new part.
Hi, my pump is connected to 2 zones. One of the zones is not turning on the pump so I get no heat, does the valve motor need to be replaced or the entire zone valve? Or is there a different issue?
I found grease on the gear of the original unit. Probably a good idea to put some high-temperature grease on the gear of the replacement unit before reinstallation.
I’ve been paying a plumber through the years to replace the actuator itself which is now getting pricey. With the price of the actuator and brass about $70 it seems like if I turn the power off it should be a simple change out, would that be correct? I know I have to line up the actuator with the valve. It always fails in off position but would I turn off the stat? I’ve been operating manually until the tech can get to me but I figure I may as well have one or two on hand. Seems like I replace one every year or two on a 10 zone system. It’s low voltage but still turn off the system? Thanks.
I have a 2 port valve motor doesn't seem to be working but heating comes on when hot water is switched on but no hot water. Can this be fixed simply by replacing the motor or do I need to replace the whole valve?
Hey Andrew I got two of these valves.. one is warm/Hot to the touch other one is cool/cold to the touch... so my question which one of these is broken/burnout?? Saw your video was very helpful
I have a similar setup at my home, lately 1 of the 2 Zones is not working but if I slide the zone value to manual it works and slide it back to auto it contnues to work for a few days, then it doesn't work again. Does it still need to be replaced or is it just full of dust and getting stuck. Does the breaker or power need to be shut off on the value your working on or is it low voltage enough to do it as is. Thanks for any feedback or info.
Very helpful video. Thank you. I have three zones. The furnace continues to heat one of the zones even though the thermostat is set low. I have already replaced the thermostat for that zone and it didn't solve the problem. I'm pretty sure the motorized valve is the issue but the pipes that flow through all three valves are hot on both sides even though the heat is not turned on for the other two zones so I can't tell which one is the faulty valve. Nothing is labeled. Any ideas on identifying which is the broken valve?
One thing - there are lots of cheap motors out there but I reckon it's worth paying a bit more for a genuine "synchro" motor. I say this having just had to replace a motor for the second time with the cheap one I fitted first lasting only 2 days!
Can you help me please? I have two zones. One for upstairs and one for down stairs. Recently when I turn my upstairs heating on, the down stair heating turns on also. Any ideas why this is happening would be great. Thanks.
In my case if I switch the manual valve to ON then the heating comes on. Does this mean that the motor could still be the issue? or the actual valve has stopped working and I need to replace the whole valve and not just the motor? Thank you!
The lever you moved to switch it to "ON" (or manual) is moving the actual valve inside the water pipe. So the valve is ok. You just need to replace the powerhead (the entire silver box) or maybe just the motor inside the powerhead, as this video shows.
Im having problems in the downstairs part of my house. The upstairs is fine, i have heat, but for the life of me i can't figure out why i have no heat downstairs. I think it might be the thermostat. Im going to trouble shoot that as well. I turn the thermostat up and I'm not hearing the unit kick in anymore. So i assumed its that. Any tips, gladly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
In my case, the burned-out motor caused the zone to be heated 24x7. The thermostat was unable to control the motor. Change the motor for the zone that is not working properly
I tried to fit a new electric motor and control to the old lower valve body but the shaft length was longer on the old valve body , has anyone else had the same issue , spacing it away by a few mm doesn't seem to work that well.
This is what's happening on mine too. What I was told is that my valve is seized open, so anytime another area runs, the stuck open area runs as well (even thought the thermostat is off). What I'm not sure about is if I need to replace the whole valve or just the motor. Anyone have any ideas?
I had this problem as well. The motor itself can fail (freeze) with the valve in the open position and the end switch closed. If it is the motor that is frozen, then when the motor is removed the valve should spring back to the closed position. You should also be able to rotate the valve shaft by hand (fingers). But if the valve does not spring back to the closed position and you are not able to rotate the valve shaft, then it is very likely that the valve itself is stuck in the open position.
Wow! Great video. Thanks so much. This was so easy to follow and I'll be able to change them all myself. Quick question... any chance you would do a video on draining the water from the different zones?
Great video! How do you know if it's just the motor vs. the whole valve? Is there a way to tell if the whole valve is bad? I've been told mine is stuck open, but I'm not sure if that means just the motor or whole valve. I'm trying to save the $400 if I can make this repair myself. I don't want to go back to the company that quoted me a price to ask ;)
These zone valve motors are really pieces of junk. They're designed to fail after a certain amount of time. Keeps Honeywell and HVAC pros flush with business.
Brilliant and works perfectly for UK systems as well. The new motor cost me just under £15 and I fitted it myself as per your instructions. We are now all toasty again. Thank you.
Hi im curious can you keep the power on while doing it or no
I turned it off at the main board. Safety first!
@@johnroberts8 thank you very much it my first time to replace it today thank you for replying back
Thanks for this video! You saved me a few hundred dollars at least. One of my zones was stuck in the heating mode and getting very hot. I ordered a valve for 60$ Canadian off Amazon and did it myself. It worked! You didn’t mention if the power should be shut off but just to be safe I switched it off to my boiler before completing the job.
Also I didn’t solder my connections but I assume it should be okay. The Honeywell manual does not say you need to solder them. I guess time will tell.
Better explanation an filming for a do it yourself-er than the professionals! Great video! Thank you for making it!
Just found your vid and promptly canabalised a working but lightly used motorised valve to replace the motor in the heavily used main heating valve which has just popped. Great fix for a cold Sunday night in January. Thanks you for this!
thanks a bunch...removed my valve motor...but this video helped me fixed it back.............otherwise ..I would be lost .............
Great Video just what I was looking for , well filmed , well explained 10/10 Thanks for posting
Your videos were very helpful today. Usually when I have had trouble it has been the end switches. This time it was the powerhead. I had an old one someone had given me. Thanks a bunch.
Thank you. I did everything you described and was able to change the motor successfully. So far its working great. I truly appreciate you and people like you.
Thanks for the Video! I thought it was funny because I just finished created a video called " Whats's Inside a Honeywell Zone Valve " - You are correct, it does not matter which wire is hot and neutral.
Great video man. This will save people a lot of money.
Great info!! Fwiw, the Torx is a T10. Use a magnetizer on the screwdriver to make life easier!
Great video, My heat was staying on even with it turn off. It was 72 to 75 degrees. I know it was the zone value or motor. Just to add if you can push that tab on top of the zone value to the left with no resistance or its does not spring back its the motor. It looks simple and it is , but watching the video help me replace it in 15 minutes and the motor was 40.00 at Home depot. I sure today a plumber would charge 300.00 or more.
I
Couple remarks to your video. With DC current it does matter polarity of the current as the motor will turn in an opposite direction. Also, you should add a disclaimer to your video to always isolate electrics. Most of these valves are supplied with 240V AC and some people can get hurt. Also, even on a low voltage with loose wires hanging around can shorter and damage something. Always isolate electrics before attempting this sort of diy repair people.
Good video save me $290 plumber try to charge $330 dollars for the job. So I went to home depot got the motor for $40 dollars and I minus his price and did it myself and saved $290 dollars. Everything works good thanks again.
Thank you. Just used your video to swap one of mine out today.
I'm a 69 year old woman and I'm sure after watching this video that I'll be able to do this myself. Thank You
+Marilyn Williams Great! hope it goes well
Great demo, clear and low- key instructions, good visibility. Thanks !
Thanks man. Saved me some money. Back up and heating. Again thanks
Thanks for the video, the only crap part was trying to find the replacement valve in town on new years eve...that set me back a bit.
Thank you and I must say it was nicely done considering you did not have a camera assistant. It's exactly what I needed. I deployed the manual override switch so I have heat in the zone (I have 4 zones) that failed for now. Going to pick up the new motor tomorrow. A friend of mine that is an HVAC installer/repair technician told me the motor is usually the part that fails on the zone valve. Just as you said in your video.
Swapped it out today. One screw, orange to orange and yellow to yellow on the wires, couple of wire nuts and about 15 minutes work.
The faulty zone is circulating hot water once again.
i have the same setup, followed your video step by step, EXCELLENT video, Thank You.
!!! Caution: many countries (such as the UK, EU) use visually identical kit - but it runs on 240V (!!!) and not 24V as shown in this video! I expect most viewers realised that anyways, but just saying :)
Also, in the EU/UK - technically... only qualified electricians are allowed to alter 240V wiring. But hey, shshsh... just turn off the mains first people!
These valves are pretty poor in my experience. Sure wish they all operated on a nice, safe 24V! Thanks for the vid.
It seems to me it's a pretty bad idea not turning it off even with the 24V system. Sure it won't give you a jolt, but working on it hot means you might short it out and maybe damage the controller or at least blow a fuse.
BTW, my understanding of the rules in the UK is that you can replace existing installations except maybe in bathrooms and kitchens... is that not right?
thanks for the video I have one question however, do we shut off the power to the valve?
Always disconnect power when working on any wireing.
If you are putting it in manual mode I assume you are safe but it still wont hurt to disconnect the motor power while you wait for a new part.
yes as it has 240v on some of the cabling coming into the valve
Hi, my pump is connected to 2 zones. One of the zones is not turning on the pump so I get no heat, does the valve motor need to be replaced or the entire zone valve? Or is there a different issue?
I found grease on the gear of the original unit. Probably a good idea to put some high-temperature grease on the gear of the replacement unit before reinstallation.
Nice demonstration and explanation. Ya made it look easy. I hope mine is that simple.....
I strongly reccomend that you turn the electricity off when doing this job. The power to the system is mains 240 volts
I’ve been paying a plumber through the years to replace the actuator itself which is now getting pricey. With the price of the actuator and brass about $70 it seems like if I turn the power off it should be a simple change out, would that be correct? I know I have to line up the actuator with the valve. It always fails in off position but would I turn off the stat? I’ve been operating manually until the tech can get to me but I figure I may as well have one or two on hand. Seems like I replace one every year or two on a 10 zone system. It’s low voltage but still turn off the system? Thanks.
24 volts...
@@davidkopec9442 Depends where you are. In the UK they are 100% 240v.
Thank you so much for the video, very clear and helpful. I will have to get one as a backup incase it does happen.
I have an Erie and it looks almost the same as your Honeywell. I wonder if they are. I also have the same problem.
I have a 2 port valve motor doesn't seem to be working but heating comes on when hot water is switched on but no hot water. Can this be fixed simply by replacing the motor or do I need to replace the whole valve?
Great video should make my day much easier thanks
What was the symptom? Why solder? How do you know which voltage replacement you need based on the valve?
Hey Andrew I got two of these valves.. one is warm/Hot to the touch other one is cool/cold to the touch... so my question which one of these is broken/burnout?? Saw your video was very helpful
I have a similar setup at my home, lately 1 of the 2 Zones is not working but if I slide the zone value to manual it works and slide it back to auto it contnues to work for a few days, then it doesn't work again. Does it still need to be replaced or is it just full of dust and getting stuck. Does the breaker or power need to be shut off on the value your working on or is it low voltage enough to do it as is. Thanks for any feedback or info.
Would this failing keep the entire system from firing up? My pilot is lit but the whole system wont engage. Company wants 550 bucks! Part costs 75.
Very helpful video. Thank you. I have three zones. The furnace continues to heat one of the zones even though the thermostat is set low. I have already replaced the thermostat for that zone and it didn't solve the problem. I'm pretty sure the motorized valve is the issue but the pipes that flow through all three valves are hot on both sides even though the heat is not turned on for the other two zones so I can't tell which one is the faulty valve. Nothing is labeled. Any ideas on identifying which is the broken valve?
One thing - there are lots of cheap motors out there but I reckon it's worth paying a bit more for a genuine "synchro" motor. I say this having just had to replace a motor for the second time with the cheap one I fitted first lasting only 2 days!
Can you help me please? I have two zones. One for upstairs and one for down stairs. Recently when I turn my upstairs heating on, the down stair heating turns on also. Any ideas why this is happening would be great. Thanks.
those wires are live 240V in the UK. I do hope you have not killed too many people.
In my case if I switch the manual valve to ON then the heating comes on. Does this mean that the motor could still be the issue? or the actual valve has stopped working and I need to replace the whole valve and not just the motor? Thank you!
The lever you moved to switch it to "ON" (or manual) is moving the actual valve inside the water pipe. So the valve is ok. You just need to replace the powerhead (the entire silver box) or maybe just the motor inside the powerhead, as this video shows.
Very detail, good job, Thanks
So if the valve were stuck in the open position, would this be same fix??
Im having problems in the downstairs part of my house. The upstairs is fine, i have heat, but for the life of me i can't figure out why i have no heat downstairs. I think it might be the thermostat. Im going to trouble shoot that as well. I turn the thermostat up and I'm not hearing the unit kick in anymore. So i assumed its that. Any tips, gladly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Frederick Jones if you jump out the thermostat wires and it fires thermostat is culprit. For next time I see it was a 9 month ago post.
Dude, you saved the day, thank you!
So how do you know 2hen it needs to be changed
sSo no testing of the motor before? Perhaps cut the wires, supply 24 volts to it and see if it spins? Thoughts?
how do find out which motor is burned out
thanks for the vid
In my case, the burned-out motor caused the zone to be heated 24x7. The thermostat was unable to control the motor. Change the motor for the zone that is not working properly
great vid, worked perfectly
I tried to fit a new electric motor and control to the old lower valve body but the shaft length was longer on the old valve body , has anyone else had the same issue , spacing it away by a few mm doesn't seem to work that well.
Thank you buddy, great video
What do you think would cause a boiler to constantly heat one zone, even with the thermostat disconnected?
This is what's happening on mine too. What I was told is that my valve is seized open, so anytime another area runs, the stuck open area runs as well (even thought the thermostat is off). What I'm not sure about is if I need to replace the whole valve or just the motor. Anyone have any ideas?
I had this problem as well. The motor itself can fail (freeze) with the valve in the open position and the end switch closed. If it is the motor that is frozen, then when the motor is removed the valve should spring back to the closed position. You should also be able to rotate the valve shaft by hand (fingers). But if the valve does not spring back to the closed position and you are not able to rotate the valve shaft, then it is very likely that the valve itself is stuck in the open position.
Good job Andrew!!!
Wow! Great video. Thanks so much. This was so easy to follow and I'll be able to change them all myself.
Quick question... any chance you would do a video on draining the water from the different zones?
did you just say you dont even have to shut off boiler to do this?
Great video! How do you know if it's just the motor vs. the whole valve? Is there a way to tell if the whole valve is bad? I've been told mine is stuck open, but I'm not sure if that means just the motor or whole valve. I'm trying to save the $400 if I can make this repair myself. I don't want to go back to the company that quoted me a price to ask ;)
I think mine is the valve. The gears stripped trying to move the valve
You don't say important to turn off the power - those can be live wires unless you do!
Thank you 🙏
I wish I saw this before I paid $400 to a plumber. 😡😞
Thanks
Thank you for this!!!!
Good job sir thanks
Thanks man
Get your motor running.
Terrific.
sorry, to many explanations just to do that
These zone valve motors are really pieces of junk. They're designed to fail after a certain amount of time. Keeps Honeywell and HVAC pros flush with business.
lalala
Too long. Get to the point bro.