I've really enjoyed your channel for over a year now. I've grown tired of all the photography channels with the thumping dance music and the epic, sweeping drone videos. I like your low-key style and think you have tremendously valuable content. I agree back button focus is the way to go. Thank you!
I use front button focus. I find the rear buttons awkward, so I use the front fn button, just right of the lens. I can keep my middle finger on the fn button and trigger finger on the shutter.
I was experiencing exactly what you were saying where the focus was just a little bit off when I looked at the images on my computer monitor. This video was absolutely essential for me. I never thought about taking the focus activation off the shutter button. I tried it and absolutely love it. You have opened up a brand new experience for me. Thanks Mark.
BBF , AF then manual with focus peaking . After torturing myself for ages on hyperfocal distances, third way in etc, I find manual focus and peaking works great.
A technique I learned from Mads Peter Iverson on my Sony A7 Riii with back button focus set, is move the focus square to the desired item you want in focus, press the AF-L button on the back of the camera. This zooms in close to the object. I can press it a 2nd time and zoom in even closer if desired. The focus square changes to a small "+" sign and I can move it precisely on what I want specifically the auto focus system to focus on then press the back button focus button (AE-L) to focus the lens. I typically have a 5 second timer set so I press the shutter button and take the shot. This technique was a game changer for me - no more slightly soft photos. I love the focus peaking for macro/intimate shots. Thank you Mark!
It was a revelation when I was shown back button focus and cannot think of doing it any other way now. Having done many tests, the auto does a better job than my eyes 99% of the time, but I always review at 100% to be sure. Thanks for sharing Mark.
I'm still relatively new to cameras. My wife bought me a D3500 the tail end of November 2019. Ironically enough, the very FIRST setting I altered was switching to back button focus. It is so much better in my humblest of newbie opinions. I appreciate another fantastic video Mark. Take care and be safe.
I'm a music recording producer & new to video/photo & currently learning as I go along 3 things I've been taught for basics is apertures, iso, & frame focusing angles etc I've noticed between my knowledge of music & video recording is not that much difference on the concept & it helped me alot including you guys tutorial. Your channel is awesome!!!! It opened a whole different world for me thank you 🙏💯💯💯👍
Like a beginner, I used to autofocus with the shutter button. I was not really happy to start to work with back focusing. But it changed everything, and now I'm mad at myself for not having used it earlier. It is not only important in portrait photography, but also in sports photography, as you can shoot while focusing, thus losing no time and missing no action.
Recently I've been talking my photography more seriously and I've been researching a lot via UA-cam. I have to state - you've been the best, by far. Outstanding content, beautifully explained. Keep up the great work - and thanks 👍👍
Thanks again Mark, for giving a clear indication of the value of back button focus. If I may elaborate to a more general principle, that of moving away from relying on the camera's default auto-settings in general. I started shooting in the late '70s, my first purchase being a used Nikon Ftn Photomic. It had a rudimentary metering system coupled with auto-aperture, but that was the extent of "automatic" functions. Working with an essentially all-mechanical camera helps the photographer realize that every exposure actually comprises several variables, several choices, to create an image: shutter speed, aperture, exposure value, "film speed" - aka ISO - plus focal point, not to mention focal length and ultimately, composition. Modifying any one of these will change the character of the image. In all but the latter two options, all these variables can be given over to the camera's auto-settings, often with acceptable results, but likely not optimum. For example, understanding how different aperture settings will change range of focus, along with other subtler changes, and choosing one specifically for a desired effect will add to one's creative potential. You need not only to know the tools at your disposal, but also to take your time and have a set reliable workflow: a detailed sample technique would be... 1. scout and locate your subject; establish general standpoint, with ideas toward final composition. 2. choose desired lens, eg., 35mm f2 for moderate-wide landscape with the intention to incorporate foreground subject-matter; handhold tighter dial-in of finished composition; set up tripod to place camera to that spot. 3. choose focal-point to ensure that at least the primary subject is sharp (back-button focus for auto-lens, or manually focus, preferably live-view with focus-peaking); It's generally preferable to focus wide open, so you'll know precisely where your focal-point lands. 4. choose aperture, depending upon desired effect, in this case f16 for wide focal-range (choice of focal-point and aperture are somewhat related, which is to say, how one chooses the two is connected. If for instance, in this composition you wished to highlight a flower in the near foreground, you'd choose f2 and focus directly on the flower, letting the background go soft; but instead, we wish a broad focal range - without focus-stacking - and you might know that f16 on this particular lens is safely sharp, which will give you good focus from near to distant... if you set your focal-point at or near its hyper-focal point. If that's too much, just focus a bit past the near-object, and rely on focus-peaking if possible). 5. establish proper exposure. A good method, with proper understanding, is to spot-meter a key area of your subject. This may require moving the focal-index on your monitor in live-view, or changing where you point your camera to do so. Again, using live-view, and histogram display, you can modify exposure-time with exposure compensation. Generally, more exposure without clipping highlights is better. Use back-button AE lock before recomposing. 6. ISO 100 (this is hardly a choice, almost by default, highest sensitivity for best resolution and least noise. Higher speed to stop action or to hand-hold would be an exception. But since we're on a tripod, with a placid subject, even a several-second exposure is fine). 7. with focal-point, aperture, and exposure-time now locked in, set final composition. I prefer live-view, since in my DSLR it locks the mirror up, reducing potential vibration, plus shows a good representation of the final composition and exposure settings. Make exposure with remote release and 2-sec. delay so camera is completely still. I frequently shoot Auto-Exposure-Compensation, ±1 stop, so I'll have three frames of varying density. I can either choose the best one for editing, or, more often than not combine them for an HDR image, which gives a bit more editing depth. ... I went to all this detail just to illustrate the point that you need to put your time in, first again to learn your tool's capabilities, and then, at the time of exposure, to methodically work through all the steps, choice-by-choice, to produce the specific desired effect. And then, on to editing, which is a whole other story. Cheers!
Thanks for this clear explanation Mark. As a new “manual setting” photographer you hear many others talk about being a back-button focuser...but until now I didn’t appreciate the reason why.
I feel another advantage of using Back Button Focusing is you can trigger the shutter release faster (no delay to focus) and time it better (e.g. more precisely when a wave to breaking on a rock).
I find I can trigger the shutter faster using the shutter as auto focus because I'm already half way down and holding it there. Just a bit more depression and the shot is taken very quickly.
Single point linked to BBF total game changer for me when I moved to it 3 years ago. Especially true as I shoot a lot of minimal long exposure landscape images where it is all about pin-sharp subject focus.
GREAT video. after thinking about it the perfect solution for ME is: 1. keep the AF on with half-way shutter 2. change the AF/MF function from control HOLD to Toggle so in this way I 1/2 way press the shutter for AF (case of child portraits you don't have time to recalibrate), then click (and not hold) the AF/MF control button to pass to MF and then adjust the micro-focus with the ring. with this setting I think I can make 99.9% of shots. Thanks Mark, I am really glad I saw this video.
I hadn't used back button focus until I was on a guided photography trip when the trip leader suggested I switch. It took a half day or so to get used to it, but I've never looked back.
I switched to BBF a few years ago and haven’t looked back since. I focus the way I want and where I want and the camera takes the image. It works great for pretty much everything since you’re in control of when the camera focuses. Mine is setup so that when I hold the focus button it’s in continuous focusing mode. Track your subject, hold the focus button and shoot away. If it stops moving, let go of the button and shoot. It makes focus and recompose a breeze. I can’t imagine shooting any other way.
You can leave AF on the shutter button on the X-T3. If you switch the camera to MF at the front, you can still use the AF-L button to spot-AF on demand. My favorite setting for landscapes. Whenever a moving subject appears, I just flip the AF mode to AF-C and the previously set tracking AF is immediately available.
The cool thing with fujis is, that you don't have to remove the autofocus from the shutter button, when using back button af. Just switch to "M" Focus mode, do everything as Mark explained here, as your back button af then still works. When you want your shutter to focus again, just use "S" or "C" focus mode again.
Great video. I use BBF for years now and never looked back, it’s great. An extra feature is that when you change your shooting mode to ‘continuous ‘ you have it all in one button. Just a short press to lock for a single shot, but if needed you can switch to continuous focusing by holding the back button, without the need to change any setting on the camera. Quite handy when an animal suddenly appears.
Always great to watch your videos, a great reminders to remember before going out. BBF settings yes great to change but remember to press that button. On Sony no need to they AF with the preview selection on (I also turn off). MF assist is another setting to use for getting all things in focus with red. When in the woods beware of ticks/red bugs 1. Vicks on boot tops and lower legs 2. For clothing eucalyptus products - ODOBAN - spray on all clothing and gear bags and rub some on hair/beard/back of neck, also wash clothes in ODOBAN. . Dryer sheet necklace and wrist wraps. Ever get red bug bites put Vicks on them the redness will go away in a month not a year as normal, kids get these bites just playing in yard at dusk!!! Also Skin-So-Soft repels mosquitoes, noseeums and ticks put a little in water spray bottle - I use all the time at sunset/sunrise on clothing/ skin-hair and always on gear bag. Even in winter the ticks will find you, do not want to take back home and family. Also Peppermint or Geranium oil in a vaporizer thing under you clothing you plan to wear out, not as oily.
Back Button Focus is hard to get used to for about the first 10 times using it especially if you been doing the focusing the traditional way for years! But hang in there before you know it...it will be second nature. Great video Mark.
For sure this tip is something every landscape or outdoor photographers, not to mention astrophotographers, should get used to. I've been shifting my workflow to that method about a year ago, and it totally changed my performance. That said, shifting to that method from the "half press - all in", does take some time to get used to, as this is something new you need to put your mind-focus to. But once you get used to it - the benefits are clear and sharp. Thank you.
Great video and suggestion. I converted to BBF some time ago and was the best thing I ever did. Agree it was awkward at first but the keeper rate went way up. When time allows, that little tweak made manually, is magic.
I like your idea of using AF to get close to proper focus, and then the manually focusing to tweak (I'll have to try that the next time I'm out). One warning I will give is some older lenses won't let you do this (mainly talking about DSLR lenses, but some people adapt those on their ML cameras). Be careful not to damage the AF motor by doing this. Some lenses if you try to grab the focus ring while in AF mode, you will actaully move the AF motor when you turn the ring, and if the camera is trying to AF, you could damage the AF motor. Most newer lenses (like the mirrorless lenses) don't "couple" the AF motor directly to the focus ring so you can do this without damaging the AF motor, but on older lenses, this is not always the case. Good tip on focusing, letting off the shutter and then re-focusing later. If you're going to use AF (which is perfectly fine) always make sure your camera has focused and locked focus first (make sure it confirms focus). At least that way 9/10 you will at least have (in focus) whatever the focus point was on. Now whether that was what you wanted to focus on or not is a different story. But this is also one reason I'm not a big fan of BBF for things like landscape. Sometimes you forget to press the BBF button to lock focus, and then the trigger to take the the shot. At least on most cameras, in AF mode, the camera has to lock focus first before the shot can be taken (not always, but on most it is this way when using the half-press method, and frankly, most cameras are shipped this way where focusing is done either with BBF/AF-ON or the shutter button). I've gotten burned a few times forgetting to press the AF-ON button when I had it set to BBF to a point where I don't use that feature anymore for photography of still subjects. Too much room for error, and you can forget if you're working fast.
Assigning focus to the back button has been the best tweak I've made on my D610. I got used to it very fast and will never go back to shutter button focus. BTW, you have the best photographic how to videos I've found on UA-cam. Thanks for all your help.
One of my interest as a photography is motorsports and the back button focusing is invaluable. Either prefocus on one spot and wait for subject to move through that spot or continuously hold down the button as this will enable the camera to continue to focus whilst it is taking the picture. With the focusing on the shutter button the focus locks as you press the shutter and if it's a fast moving subject it may have moved out of focus by the time the shutter has taken the image. This is vital, I should imagine, for wildlife photographers also
There is also the issue of shutter or camera shake, although slight, when pressing the shutter button. I use BBF, AF, maybe recompose the shot and then with either a shutter release or more often the 2 second timer, I take the shot. I am starting to use AF then manual focus to make sure like you demonstrated today. This has helped me refine that process. Thanks, Mark!
Yes! I've encountered this problem too. I started using manual focus, and on my camera I can switch the focus on automatic just by keep pushing the front button. As soon as I release it turns back into manual. One thing that I should do is enable that "red sharpness point" you shown, might be handy to get where the focus exactly is!
Thanks a lot for your video Mark! On Fujifilm X-T3 I'm using AF-ON back button with AF-M switch in front. So I can use AF on half shutter button in AF-S mode, and back button AF in AF-M mode.
Hey Mark, you continue to be the most helpful landscape photographer I’ve found on UA-cam. Thank you so much for explaining this. I honestly thought my camera body needed an upgrade because my images were having this exact problem. Appreciate you!
Thank you very much for your videos, keep them coming. I was advised to use back button focusing by my Dad and I have never looked back and it makes for a much better work flow. It took a few trips to get used to this mind. The only thing I don't have on my camera is focus peaking but I have been practising zooming in on live view to 100% and checking to make sure everything is in focus. Even setting one of buttons to quickly zoom in to 100% when on live view has made this is so much easier.
This would be the clearest explanation I have come across about just how back button focus actually works. Will be giving this a go on my next shoot. Thanks! And I totally agree about the absence of background music. A welcome and refreshing change.
Another great video. Have used back button focus for some years, first on Nikon and now on Fuji XT cameras. On my X-T2 and X-T3 cameras I assigned the front button (FN2) to focus. It is easy to keep my middle finger on the FN2 button and use my first finger for the shutter. I have tried the AF-E and AF-L buttons as well, but they do not work as well as the FN2 button. And now with my thumb I can dial in SS with the rear command dial. Happy with the setup.
Great video Mark. It was reassuring for me to see how my camera skills are developing in the right direction. My lack of artistic confidence pushes me to learn the techniques and current gear functionality more intimately in an effort to get the artistic results in the image making process. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mark. Great video. I've been using bbf on my d500 now for about 6 weeks and will not be going back to the default. I would recommend everyone to use it. I also now recheck focus like you, by using manual focus ring even though the d500 is awesome at focusing. Look forward to your next video. Oh and I hope your getting on well with your van convertion. Steve. UK
Im just only 1:45 seconds into your video and had to pause to make this comment .......... Your getting Dang Professional looking with your Video production! Its actually like something made for TV
With the Fujifilm cameras, if you just turn your focus switch to M (manual focus) back button focus is already enabled by default without having to change any settings in the menu at all, unless s you want to move it from the AFL to the AEL button of course, which is easy to change- just hold down your display button for 3 seconds and the menu pops up where you can allocate a function to any button you like. :)
I’m relatively new to your channel and i’m enjoying the more relaxed structure and less sales pushy narrative. I’m onside 100% with this focussing method too, started using it last year. Modern cameras ay! I think I know how Sulu felt at the beginning of each Star Trek mission, navigating these things is becoming a bit of a Enterprise flight deck experience.
Completely agree. I’ve been using back button focus for a few years. Question - when using focus peaking, do you find the red gets in the way of what you’re trying to see? Do you typically just trust that the red googly lines are sharp spots? Or use it to confirm that your eye and LCD screen are correct when manually focussing?
Fairly new to photography and really new to your channel. Just like this video, lots of great, straight to the point & interesting information. Thank you and I looking forward to catching up on it all!
Hi Mark, I really enjoy your videos, your voice & demeanor. I have a suggestion. I’m a retired optometrist & dabble in photography. I’ve noticed in your videos that you appear to look through your viewfinder with your left eye, as do I, & close your right eye. This adds fatigue to facial muscles. Next time you look through the viewfinder, close that left eye & you’ll see that the camera body & your shooting hand naturally blocks the right eye. So keep that right eye open & you’ll be less fatigued. Keep up the great videos!
Another way to back button focus temp is turn aff switch on front of camera to M you can then use BackButton to focus and shutter release to capture image. Switchback to C or S and back to standard operations 👍
I absolutely love the organic tones in your video. My Z6 is on the way so time to start mastering that thing when it gets here. Big upgrade from a D3500. Thanks for the help!
I'm just getting into outdoor landscape photography and your content and photographs are amazing! Also want to say your tutorials are fantastic for me as a ture noobie, great tip in this video!!! Thanks Mark
So good to get the benefit of your experience Mark , I’m heading towards being a professional photographer and your videos have taught me so much over the last few months . Been using this focus technique for a while now , it’s changed my photographs . So much better , thanks 🙏 Always try to experiment and teach myself as I go along as you did but these brilliant videos have certainly speeded up process . Take care , greetings from the UK
This gonna be one of the most important lesson to learn, according to me, Thanks again to make this type of wonderful videos....... Thanks Allot.........
@@MarkDenneyPhoto I have a hunger inside me to learn something brand new, I wanted to go to USA,North Carolina there lives my sister for her IT job,but after clearing my board exams when I applied for Visa your country didn't approve that.......but that's okay I will visit your country when the pandamic will go forever.........and if I have a chance I will like to meet with you and touch your feet because you are my one and only teacher......in India we addressed teacher as "Guru" and touching there feet we students take there blessings as well we show our respect to them......... That's it... I don't if I could be a good photographer or not But I enjoy to click photos.....I enjoy when I edited my photos it's like a meditation to me,it helps me to refresh my mind........ that's why I love photography specially landscape photography.........🙏 Thank you......🙏
I found out about the back button focus a couple of years ago. Seemed like a good thing to do. I'm surprised this isn't the standard setting! What a difference it makes. Never changed it back. I have 2 camera's and both have that option set. Best thing I did to personalise!
If you tend to dial in your focus manually for landscape photography, you might as well switch the lens to manual focus and dial it in every time with focus peaking. If you don't have focus peaking, then I could understand why you would want to rely on the camera's autofocus capability. Just a thought. Great video, thanks for sharing your content.
Thanks for this video. I’m new at digital photography. This is a reoccurring prob I have had. Great channel. I too like the low key, no music. To the point instructions. Great job.
Great video and as usual awesome tips Mark. The same principle, but just a different technique - engage the autofocus, refine it and then switch focus to manual. It will effectively do the same thing without necessity to jump into camera settings. I'm not sure if all the camera manufacturers put some sort of toggle button on either lens or camera, but it is definitely the case for Canon and it simplifies the workflow just a bit.
I've watched many videos around bbf, think you have this discussed this previously in one of your videos. But as mentioned to some below, it took me a while to figure it out and getting used to it. But now, I don't want to go back, loving it ! One downside, someone wanted to try my camera (Sony A7MII) before buying it too, she had a hard time shooting sharp images. Anyway, it works for me !
Same! Takes a bit to get used to but now I can’t imagine it any other way!
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Very helpful info, Mark. Googling how to do that on my camera brought me directly to a video by Sony showing what to do. Thanks for the tip. This is a good tip. I often use the manual ring to check focus peaking, but having the back button focus enabled is excellent.
I have been using back button focusing for awhile now. I find it more convenient for many different types of photos as my thumb is actually engaging the focus system while my shutter finger is not engaging the the shutter button until I am ready. I will have to try using focus peaking and the focus ring to fine tune the focus.
Another excellent video Mark! I've just recently started watching some landscape and seascape videos as I want to renew my interest in that genre that I did a bit of several years ago. I came across your videos and find them to be pleasant to watch and understand. I feel almost as if I have known you from the past, lol. I am originally from just east of Charlotte, NC, but reside in coastal SC now. The woods in this video even look like a place I once visited a few times when I was first interested in doing some landscape work. I think the place was called Weymouth Woods east of my old home in NC. Anyway, just wanted to thank you for doing these videos, and I will certainly watch several more as I have this desire to get back out into the woods and water. Thanks.
I miss the old Canon AE slr viewfinder that had a very thin split line. It never failed me in getting a focus exactly on what I wanted, and quickly. It also didn't interfere with the looking at the scene/subject, and also was easy to see in all different lighting conditions.
Hi Mark! How the heck do you not yet have, at the VERY least, 500K subscribers?! You are by far the most concise and easy to follow “tutor” on the fundamentals of photography. I particularly love these on site tutorials. Keep em coming Mark. Hey guys, let’s help this great individual by sharing his videos and hopefully help him gain a few 100 thousand more subscribers by Xmas :)
I completely agree. Informative, easy to follow, great visual production of video, no distracting ads or links from sponsors, and most importantly understands this is instruction first and not a tryout for a tv deal.
Mark you have a soothing voice and calm manner too, great to learn from. And I'm always interested in seeing what little icons you have on your desk each time...
Great video Mark! I've tested back button focus several different times, I just don't like it. So to keep my camera from changing after the initial focus I just switch my lens to manual focus.
If you have the focus on continuous then using back button focus permits single shot focusing and by holding down the back button it will focus continuously. Another big plus.
This is a really good tip, essentially two tips in one. On my Fuji XH1 I can only get focus peaking if I am in manual mode. Doesn't work in continuous or single shot. As you note, using it really can make the difference. Cheers.
I'd think it's even more important for landscape. For wildlife you probably want your focus on the point you've selected, because you only recompose to keep that point on the animal. For landscape you might focus on one point to get the focus distance you want, and then recompose.
I have heard about the back button focusing before but I completely forgot about it. Great video! I tend to use zoom to focus when on a tripod for manual though as my system doesn't have focus peaking, in case anyone else doesn't have peaking and needs a workaround.
Another great video, Mark. I've been using back button focus ever since I got the Canon 6D and really wish it was available on my other camera bodies. I also set the focus to AI Servo (I think AF_C on Nikon?) which also means no more changing between one shot and continuous. Great for those unexpected wildlife shots.
Thanks for your video. Back button focus (BBF) together with continuous focus mode or AI servo mode should be the default setting in all DSLRs/DSLMs. You obviously did not speak about those focus modes since your video was focusing on landscape photography, but BBF actually allows you to keep your camera in CF/servo mode all the time. One less thing to think of. No matter if you shoot landscapes, portraits or sports. Another advantage of BBF: Since the shutter release button is no longer also responsible for the focusing, your camera will shoot slightly more pics per second.
Thanks Mark, a very useful item which I have learnt from you. I’ve found out how to alter my Nikon D610 and can’t wait to try it in the morning. Great videos and instructions from you as always, cheers.
in one video regarding the Focus stacking you mentioned that you used really high aperture, around F16, for each shot. I think that most of landscape lenses have best optical performance aroud F8. Why did you decide to go with such a high aperture, if you didnt need that long depth of field, because you blended more sharper pictures into one anyway? Btw perfect photography channel, learning so much here
Great video Mark, going to go see if there is a video available on back button focussing for my camera. Always look forward to your videos, they are always very informative and to the point!
If you have assignable buttons on the front of your camera, you can use one of those for focus. Handy if you're left-eye dominant like me (so face in the way of the buttons). I often use it in 'continuous' mode, so, if I have a subject that may move, I leave the button pressed, and the focus will follow the now-moving subject.
Thanks so much for watching everyone!!
Thank you for putting your time into this video with all of this rich advice and content for me to watch!!
@@mdcuber484 Glad to do it and thank you for checking out the video!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto because of you I switched to back button focusing and I’m now trying it out.
Back button focus is my preferred method of focus in landscape and esp. portrait, etc.
I've really enjoyed your channel for over a year now. I've grown tired of all the photography channels with the thumping dance music and the epic, sweeping drone videos. I like your low-key style and think you have tremendously valuable content. I agree back button focus is the way to go. Thank you!
You right no more drone videos presented .
I use front button focus. I find the rear buttons awkward, so I use the front fn button, just right of the lens. I can keep my middle finger on the fn button and trigger finger on the shutter.
Back button focus was the best change I made, but the hardest to get accustomed to. Focus is focus and shutter is shutter, I’ll never go back!
Same here! Wont change now
You're like the Bob Ross of photography. "Let's just take some pics of these happy little trees." Always passing on great knowledge.
Bob Ross is awesome , who needs cameras
I was experiencing exactly what you were saying where the focus was just a little bit off when I looked at the images on my computer monitor. This video was absolutely essential for me. I never thought about taking the focus activation off the shutter button. I tried it and absolutely love it. You have opened up a brand new experience for me. Thanks Mark.
BBF , AF then manual with focus peaking . After torturing myself for ages on hyperfocal distances, third way in etc, I find manual focus and peaking works great.
A technique I learned from Mads Peter Iverson on my Sony A7 Riii with back button focus set, is move the focus square to the desired item you want in focus, press the AF-L button on the back of the camera. This zooms in close to the object. I can press it a 2nd time and zoom in even closer if desired. The focus square changes to a small "+" sign and I can move it precisely on what I want specifically the auto focus system to focus on then press the back button focus button (AE-L) to focus the lens. I typically have a 5 second timer set so I press the shutter button and take the shot. This technique was a game changer for me - no more slightly soft photos. I love the focus peaking for macro/intimate shots. Thank you Mark!
It was a revelation when I was shown back button focus and cannot think of doing it any other way now. Having done many tests, the auto does a better job than my eyes 99% of the time, but I always review at 100% to be sure. Thanks for sharing Mark.
I'm still relatively new to cameras. My wife bought me a D3500 the tail end of November 2019.
Ironically enough, the very FIRST setting I altered was switching to back button focus. It is so much better in my humblest of newbie opinions.
I appreciate another fantastic video Mark. Take care and be safe.
I'm a music recording producer & new to video/photo & currently learning as I go along 3 things I've been taught for basics is apertures, iso, & frame focusing angles etc I've noticed between my knowledge of music & video recording is not that much difference on the concept & it helped me alot including you guys tutorial. Your channel is awesome!!!! It opened a whole different world for me thank you 🙏💯💯💯👍
Like a beginner, I used to autofocus with the shutter button. I was not really happy to start to work with back focusing. But it changed everything, and now I'm mad at myself for not having used it earlier. It is not only important in portrait photography, but also in sports photography, as you can shoot while focusing, thus losing no time and missing no action.
Recently I've been talking my photography more seriously and I've been researching a lot via UA-cam. I have to state - you've been the best, by far. Outstanding content, beautifully explained. Keep up the great work - and thanks 👍👍
Thanks again Mark, for giving a clear indication of the value of back button focus. If I may elaborate to a more general principle, that of moving away from relying on the camera's default auto-settings in general. I started shooting in the late '70s, my first purchase being a used Nikon Ftn Photomic. It had a rudimentary metering system coupled with auto-aperture, but that was the extent of "automatic" functions. Working with an essentially all-mechanical camera helps the photographer realize that every exposure actually comprises several variables, several choices, to create an image: shutter speed, aperture, exposure value, "film speed" - aka ISO - plus focal point, not to mention focal length and ultimately, composition. Modifying any one of these will change the character of the image. In all but the latter two options, all these variables can be given over to the camera's auto-settings, often with acceptable results, but likely not optimum. For example, understanding how different aperture settings will change range of focus, along with other subtler changes, and choosing one specifically for a desired effect will add to one's creative potential. You need not only to know the tools at your disposal, but also to take your time and have a set reliable workflow: a detailed sample technique would be... 1. scout and locate your subject; establish general standpoint, with ideas toward final composition. 2. choose desired lens, eg., 35mm f2 for moderate-wide landscape with the intention to incorporate foreground subject-matter; handhold tighter dial-in of finished composition; set up tripod to place camera to that spot. 3. choose focal-point to ensure that at least the primary subject is sharp (back-button focus for auto-lens, or manually focus, preferably live-view with focus-peaking); It's generally preferable to focus wide open, so you'll know precisely where your focal-point lands. 4. choose aperture, depending upon desired effect, in this case f16 for wide focal-range (choice of focal-point and aperture are somewhat related, which is to say, how one chooses the two is connected. If for instance, in this composition you wished to highlight a flower in the near foreground, you'd choose f2 and focus directly on the flower, letting the background go soft; but instead, we wish a broad focal range - without focus-stacking - and you might know that f16 on this particular lens is safely sharp, which will give you good focus from near to distant... if you set your focal-point at or near its hyper-focal point. If that's too much, just focus a bit past the near-object, and rely on focus-peaking if possible). 5. establish proper exposure. A good method, with proper understanding, is to spot-meter a key area of your subject. This may require moving the focal-index on your monitor in live-view, or changing where you point your camera to do so. Again, using live-view, and histogram display, you can modify exposure-time with exposure compensation. Generally, more exposure without clipping highlights is better. Use back-button AE lock before recomposing. 6. ISO 100 (this is hardly a choice, almost by default, highest sensitivity for best resolution and least noise. Higher speed to stop action or to hand-hold would be an exception. But since we're on a tripod, with a placid subject, even a several-second exposure is fine). 7. with focal-point, aperture, and exposure-time now locked in, set final composition. I prefer live-view, since in my DSLR it locks the mirror up, reducing potential vibration, plus shows a good representation of the final composition and exposure settings. Make exposure with remote release and 2-sec. delay so camera is completely still. I frequently shoot Auto-Exposure-Compensation, ±1 stop, so I'll have three frames of varying density. I can either choose the best one for editing, or, more often than not combine them for an HDR image, which gives a bit more editing depth. ... I went to all this detail just to illustrate the point that you need to put your time in, first again to learn your tool's capabilities, and then, at the time of exposure, to methodically work through all the steps, choice-by-choice, to produce the specific desired effect. And then, on to editing, which is a whole other story. Cheers!
Thanks for this clear explanation Mark. As a new “manual setting” photographer you hear many others talk about being a back-button focuser...but until now I didn’t appreciate the reason why.
I feel another advantage of using Back Button Focusing is you can trigger the shutter release faster (no delay to focus) and time it better (e.g. more precisely when a wave to breaking on a rock).
I find I can trigger the shutter faster using the shutter as auto focus because I'm already half way down and holding it there. Just a bit more depression and the shot is taken very quickly.
Single point linked to BBF total game changer for me when I moved to it 3 years ago. Especially true as I shoot a lot of minimal long exposure landscape images where it is all about pin-sharp subject focus.
GREAT video. after thinking about it the perfect solution for ME is:
1. keep the AF on with half-way shutter
2. change the AF/MF function from control HOLD to Toggle
so in this way I 1/2 way press the shutter for AF (case of child portraits you don't have time to recalibrate), then click (and not hold) the AF/MF control button to pass to MF and then adjust the micro-focus with the ring.
with this setting I think I can make 99.9% of shots.
Thanks Mark, I am really glad I saw this video.
BTW on Sony a6600 :)
I hadn't used back button focus until I was on a guided photography trip when the trip leader suggested I switch. It took a half day or so to get used to it, but I've never looked back.
I switched to BBF a few years ago and haven’t looked back since. I focus the way I want and where I want and the camera takes the image. It works great for pretty much everything since you’re in control of when the camera focuses. Mine is setup so that when I hold the focus button it’s in continuous focusing mode. Track your subject, hold the focus button and shoot away. If it stops moving, let go of the button and shoot. It makes focus and recompose a breeze. I can’t imagine shooting any other way.
You can leave AF on the shutter button on the X-T3. If you switch the camera to MF at the front, you can still use the AF-L button to spot-AF on demand. My favorite setting for landscapes. Whenever a moving subject appears, I just flip the AF mode to AF-C and the previously set tracking AF is immediately available.
The cool thing with fujis is, that you don't have to remove the autofocus from the shutter button, when using back button af. Just switch to "M" Focus mode, do everything as Mark explained here, as your back button af then still works. When you want your shutter to focus again, just use "S" or "C" focus mode again.
Great video. I use BBF for years now and never looked back, it’s great. An extra feature is that when you change your shooting mode to ‘continuous ‘ you have it all in one button. Just a short press to lock for a single shot, but if needed you can switch to continuous focusing by holding the back button, without the need to change any setting on the camera. Quite handy when an animal suddenly appears.
Always great to watch your videos, a great reminders to remember before going out. BBF settings yes great to change but remember to press that button. On Sony no need to they AF with the preview selection on (I also turn off). MF assist is another setting to use for getting all things in focus with red. When in the woods beware of ticks/red bugs 1. Vicks on boot tops and lower legs 2. For clothing eucalyptus products - ODOBAN - spray on all clothing and gear bags and rub some on hair/beard/back of neck, also wash clothes in ODOBAN. . Dryer sheet necklace and wrist wraps. Ever get red bug bites put Vicks on them the redness will go away in a month not a year as normal, kids get these bites just playing in yard at dusk!!! Also Skin-So-Soft repels mosquitoes, noseeums and ticks put a little in water spray bottle - I use all the time at sunset/sunrise on clothing/ skin-hair and always on gear bag. Even in winter the ticks will find you, do not want to take back home and family. Also Peppermint or Geranium oil in a vaporizer thing under you clothing you plan to wear out, not as oily.
Back Button Focus is hard to get used to for about the first 10 times using it especially if you been doing the focusing the traditional way for years! But hang in there before you know it...it will be second nature. Great video Mark.
I put back button focus on the Q button and moved Q to the upper right button. It makes it MUCH easier to find. Great video.
For sure this tip is something every landscape or outdoor photographers, not to mention astrophotographers, should get used to. I've been shifting my workflow to that method about a year ago, and it totally changed my performance. That said, shifting to that method from the "half press - all in", does take some time to get used to, as this is something new you need to put your mind-focus to. But once you get used to it - the benefits are clear and sharp. Thank you.
Great video and suggestion. I converted to BBF some time ago and was the best thing I ever did. Agree it was awkward at first but the keeper rate went way up. When time allows, that little tweak made manually, is magic.
I like your idea of using AF to get close to proper focus, and then the manually focusing to tweak (I'll have to try that the next time I'm out). One warning I will give is some older lenses won't let you do this (mainly talking about DSLR lenses, but some people adapt those on their ML cameras). Be careful not to damage the AF motor by doing this. Some lenses if you try to grab the focus ring while in AF mode, you will actaully move the AF motor when you turn the ring, and if the camera is trying to AF, you could damage the AF motor. Most newer lenses (like the mirrorless lenses) don't "couple" the AF motor directly to the focus ring so you can do this without damaging the AF motor, but on older lenses, this is not always the case.
Good tip on focusing, letting off the shutter and then re-focusing later. If you're going to use AF (which is perfectly fine) always make sure your camera has focused and locked focus first (make sure it confirms focus). At least that way 9/10 you will at least have (in focus) whatever the focus point was on. Now whether that was what you wanted to focus on or not is a different story. But this is also one reason I'm not a big fan of BBF for things like landscape. Sometimes you forget to press the BBF button to lock focus, and then the trigger to take the the shot. At least on most cameras, in AF mode, the camera has to lock focus first before the shot can be taken (not always, but on most it is this way when using the half-press method, and frankly, most cameras are shipped this way where focusing is done either with BBF/AF-ON or the shutter button). I've gotten burned a few times forgetting to press the AF-ON button when I had it set to BBF to a point where I don't use that feature anymore for photography of still subjects. Too much room for error, and you can forget if you're working fast.
Assigning focus to the back button has been the best tweak I've made on my D610. I got used to it very fast and will never go back to shutter button focus. BTW, you have the best photographic how to videos I've found on UA-cam. Thanks for all your help.
One of my interest as a photography is motorsports and the back button focusing is invaluable. Either prefocus on one spot and wait for subject to move through that spot or continuously hold down the button as this will enable the camera to continue to focus whilst it is taking the picture. With the focusing on the shutter button the focus locks as you press the shutter and if it's a fast moving subject it may have moved out of focus by the time the shutter has taken the image. This is vital, I should imagine, for wildlife photographers also
There is also the issue of shutter or camera shake, although slight, when pressing the shutter button. I use BBF, AF, maybe recompose the shot and then with either a shutter release or more often the 2 second timer, I take the shot. I am starting to use AF then manual focus to make sure like you demonstrated today. This has helped me refine that process. Thanks, Mark!
Yes! I've encountered this problem too. I started using manual focus, and on my camera I can switch the focus on automatic just by keep pushing the front button. As soon as I release it turns back into manual. One thing that I should do is enable that "red sharpness point" you shown, might be handy to get where the focus exactly is!
Best thing I ever did on my Olympus em1m11. Works a treat with sports and bird photography.
Great video Mark. Super simplified with practical demonstration at every step. Thank you so much for posting.
Thanks a lot for your video Mark! On Fujifilm X-T3 I'm using AF-ON back button with AF-M switch in front. So I can use AF on half shutter button in AF-S mode, and back button AF in AF-M mode.
Hey Mark, you continue to be the most helpful landscape photographer I’ve found on UA-cam. Thank you so much for explaining this. I honestly thought my camera body needed an upgrade because my images were having this exact problem. Appreciate you!
Really appreciate this Sam - thanks a million man!
Thank you very much for your videos, keep them coming. I was advised to use back button focusing by my Dad and I have never looked back and it makes for a much better work flow. It took a few trips to get used to this mind. The only thing I don't have on my camera is focus peaking but I have been practising zooming in on live view to 100% and checking to make sure everything is in focus. Even setting one of buttons to quickly zoom in to 100% when on live view has made this is so much easier.
Glad to hear you’re enjoying the videos Andy!
Just tried this...wow it does make a big difference to the overall quality of my images.
Thanks Mark, another great tip, will try it out, hope you guys are all safe and Healthy in these odd times.
This would be the clearest explanation I have come across about just how back button focus actually works. Will be giving this a go on my next shoot. Thanks! And I totally agree about the absence of background music. A welcome and refreshing change.
Another great video. Have used back button focus for some years, first on Nikon and now on Fuji XT cameras. On my X-T2 and X-T3 cameras I assigned the front button (FN2) to focus. It is easy to keep my middle finger on the FN2 button and use my first finger for the shutter. I have tried the AF-E and AF-L buttons as well, but they do not work as well as the FN2 button. And now with my thumb I can dial in SS with the rear command dial. Happy with the setup.
Great video Mark. It was reassuring for me to see how my camera skills are developing in the right direction. My lack of artistic confidence pushes me to learn the techniques and current gear functionality more intimately in an effort to get the artistic results in the image making process. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks Mark. Great video. I've been using bbf on my d500 now for about 6 weeks and will not be going back to the default. I would recommend everyone to use it. I also now recheck focus like you, by using manual focus ring even though the d500 is awesome at focusing. Look forward to your next video. Oh and I hope your getting on well with your van convertion. Steve. UK
Thanks a million Steve - really appreciate it! The van is coming along, one project at a time👍
I find BBF most useful when coupled with continuous focus for moving subjects.
Im just only 1:45 seconds into your video and had to pause to make this comment .......... Your getting Dang Professional looking with your Video production! Its actually like something made for TV
Thanks a million Richard! Glad you think so👍👍
With the Fujifilm cameras, if you just turn your focus switch to M (manual focus) back button focus is already enabled by default without having to change any settings in the menu at all, unless s you want to move it from the AFL to the AEL button of course, which is easy to change- just hold down your display button for 3 seconds and the menu pops up where you can allocate a function to any button you like. :)
I’m relatively new to your channel and i’m enjoying the more relaxed structure and less sales pushy narrative. I’m onside 100% with this focussing method too, started using it last year. Modern cameras ay! I think I know how Sulu felt at the beginning of each Star Trek mission, navigating these things is becoming a bit of a Enterprise flight deck experience.
Completely agree. I’ve been using back button focus for a few years.
Question - when using focus peaking, do you find the red gets in the way of what you’re trying to see? Do you typically just trust that the red googly lines are sharp spots? Or use it to confirm that your eye and LCD screen are correct when manually focussing?
I mainly use it to confirm focus
Great tips..with so much detailed info..Thanks..Subscribed!
Fairly new to photography and really new to your channel. Just like this video, lots of great, straight to the point & interesting information. Thank you and I looking forward to catching up on it all!
Mark: "I turn my focus ring until most of the scene is red, marking focus area"
Me:
Nikon d850 😉
If you have a Canon DSLR get magic lantern, it adds focus peaking among tons of other features
@@Kevinmadefilms I'm Nikon D700 User :)
@@Henkepenkeberg Hi. Any idea if its available in other Nikon bodies?
i wish my D7200 had it also :(
For anyone wondering, Canon SL3 - Live View Mode > Menu > Shooting Settings > Page 7 > MF Focus Peaking
I’ve watched a s**t load of landscape photography videos and I have never had these two top tips explained by anyone. 👍🏻👍🏻
This is so helpful to know there's an option for back focusing as I've missed so many shots when my camera refocuses while using the shutter button.
Hi Mark,
I really enjoy your videos, your voice & demeanor. I have a suggestion. I’m a retired optometrist & dabble in photography.
I’ve noticed in your videos that you appear to look through your viewfinder with your left eye, as do I, & close your right eye. This adds fatigue to facial muscles. Next time you look through the viewfinder, close that left eye & you’ll see that the camera body & your shooting hand naturally blocks the right eye.
So keep that right eye open & you’ll be less fatigued.
Keep up the great videos!
Like that you said, you go out to practice your techniques, nice to hear that we are always practicing and learning.
Another way to back button focus temp is turn aff switch on front of camera to M you can then use BackButton to focus and shutter release to capture image. Switchback to C or S and back to standard operations 👍
I absolutely love the organic tones in your video. My Z6 is on the way so time to start mastering that thing when it gets here. Big upgrade from a D3500. Thanks for the help!
I'm just getting into outdoor landscape photography and your content and photographs are amazing! Also want to say your tutorials are fantastic for me as a ture noobie, great tip in this video!!!
Thanks Mark
So good to get the benefit of your experience Mark , I’m heading towards being a professional photographer and your videos have taught me so much over the last few months . Been using this focus technique for a while now , it’s changed my photographs . So much better , thanks 🙏
Always try to experiment and teach myself as I go along as you did but these brilliant videos have certainly speeded up process . Take care , greetings from the UK
This gonna be one of the most important lesson to learn, according to me, Thanks again to make this type of wonderful videos....... Thanks Allot.........
You’re the best - thanks so much for watching each week!
@@MarkDenneyPhoto I have a hunger inside me to learn something brand new, I wanted to go to USA,North Carolina there lives my sister for her IT job,but after clearing my board exams when I applied for Visa your country didn't approve that.......but that's okay I will visit your country when the pandamic will go forever.........and if I have a chance I will like to meet with you and touch your feet because you are my one and only teacher......in India we addressed teacher as "Guru" and touching there feet we students take there blessings as well we show our respect to them......... That's it...
I don't if I could be a good photographer or not But I enjoy to click photos.....I enjoy when I edited my photos it's like a meditation to me,it helps me to refresh my mind........ that's why I love photography specially landscape photography.........🙏 Thank you......🙏
I found out about the back button focus a couple of years ago. Seemed like a good thing to do. I'm surprised this isn't the standard setting! What a difference it makes. Never changed it back. I have 2 camera's and both have that option set. Best thing I did to personalise!
The wonderful sounds of taking photos in nature.. (tripod legs sliding out, locking the ball head, rotating the aperture ring..) /s
I love it!
If you tend to dial in your focus manually for landscape photography, you might as well switch the lens to manual focus and dial it in every time with focus peaking. If you don't have focus peaking, then I could understand why you would want to rely on the camera's autofocus capability. Just a thought. Great video, thanks for sharing your content.
The fact he showed us how to pack his gear and unpack his gear is enough for me to like this video.
Thanks for this video. I’m new at digital photography. This is a reoccurring prob I have had. Great channel. I too like the low key, no music. To the point instructions. Great job.
Thank you!! Absolutely love your videos :)
You always provide great tips, much appreciated
Great video and as usual awesome tips Mark.
The same principle, but just a different technique - engage the autofocus, refine it and then switch focus to manual. It will effectively do the same thing without necessity to jump into camera settings. I'm not sure if all the camera manufacturers put some sort of toggle button on either lens or camera, but it is definitely the case for Canon and it simplifies the workflow just a bit.
Thanks a million man!
Changed the manual check focus setting in my XT3. Could be a game changer. Thanks Mark!
Sometimes i think the focus check is difficult with a high fstop, i usually step down to lowest aperture and focus, then step up fstop
Thank you. I have played around with it I guess I need to revisit that and try this again. Thank you very much for the info
I've watched many videos around bbf, think you have this discussed this previously in one of your videos. But as mentioned to some below, it took me a while to figure it out and getting used to it. But now, I don't want to go back, loving it ! One downside, someone wanted to try my camera (Sony A7MII) before buying it too, she had a hard time shooting sharp images. Anyway, it works for me !
It took me awhile to get used to it, but now I will never go back. I like the separation of the focus and shutter actions.
Same! Takes a bit to get used to but now I can’t imagine it any other way!
Very helpful info, Mark. Googling how to do that on my camera brought me directly to a video by Sony showing what to do. Thanks for the tip. This is a good tip. I often use the manual ring to check focus peaking, but having the back button focus enabled is excellent.
I have been using back button focusing for awhile now. I find it more convenient for many different types of photos as my thumb is actually engaging the focus system while my shutter finger is not engaging the the shutter button until I am ready. I will have to try using focus peaking and the focus ring to fine tune the focus.
Super helpful video on getting sharp focus. Thanks!
Great video. Thanks for all of the help Mark.
Another excellent video Mark! I've just recently started watching some landscape and seascape videos as I want to renew my interest in that genre that I did a bit of several years ago. I came across your videos and find them to be pleasant to watch and understand. I feel almost as if I have known you from the past, lol. I am originally from just east of Charlotte, NC, but reside in coastal SC now. The woods in this video even look like a place I once visited a few times when I was first interested in doing some landscape work. I think the place was called Weymouth Woods east of my old home in NC. Anyway, just wanted to thank you for doing these videos, and I will certainly watch several more as I have this desire to get back out into the woods and water. Thanks.
I miss the old Canon AE slr viewfinder that had a very thin split line. It never failed me in getting a focus exactly on what I wanted, and quickly. It also didn't interfere with the looking at the scene/subject, and also was easy to see in all different lighting conditions.
Excellent tip well presented with clarity and justification.,👍
I used this technique today and it worked a treat. Thanks
Hi Mark! How the heck do you not yet have, at the VERY least, 500K subscribers?! You are by far the most concise and easy to follow “tutor” on the fundamentals of photography. I particularly love these on site tutorials. Keep em coming Mark. Hey guys, let’s help this great individual by sharing his videos and hopefully help him gain a few 100 thousand more subscribers by Xmas :)
You’re the best - thanks so much Michelle!
I completely agree. Informative, easy to follow, great visual production of video, no distracting ads or links from sponsors, and most importantly understands this is instruction first and not a tryout for a tv deal.
Mark you have a soothing voice and calm manner too, great to learn from. And I'm always interested in seeing what little icons you have on your desk each time...
Great video Mark! I've tested back button focus several different times, I just don't like it. So to keep my camera from changing after the initial focus I just switch my lens to manual focus.
Thanks Mike - I used to do the same thing as well.
If you have the focus on continuous then using back button focus permits single shot focusing and by holding down the back button it will focus continuously. Another big plus.
This is a really good tip, essentially two tips in one. On my Fuji XH1 I can only get focus peaking if I am in manual mode. Doesn't work in continuous or single shot. As you note, using it really can make the difference. Cheers.
Focus peaking does work in Single focus mode on the XH-1. I use it all the time!
Using Back button focus and putting it in manual keeps the half press functionality for single. Works like a charm :)
Big fan of back button auto focus for wildlife. Now I see you are correct - it’s important for landscape as well.
I'd think it's even more important for landscape. For wildlife you probably want your focus on the point you've selected, because you only recompose to keep that point on the animal. For landscape you might focus on one point to get the focus distance you want, and then recompose.
I was unaware that I could reformat button functions. This is a quality piece of info
I'll try it out. Don't let me down, Denney! Thanks for another informative video!
I would never!! You’ll like it!
BB focus is a bit odd at first, but after you get used to it you'll never go back. BB focus is also key for wildlife or any moving subject.
I have heard about the back button focusing before but I completely forgot about it. Great video! I tend to use zoom to focus when on a tripod for manual though as my system doesn't have focus peaking, in case anyone else doesn't have peaking and needs a workaround.
Another great video, Mark. I've been using back button focus ever since I got the Canon 6D and really wish it was available on my other camera bodies. I also set the focus to AI Servo (I think AF_C on Nikon?) which also means no more changing between one shot and continuous. Great for those unexpected wildlife shots.
Thanks for your video. Back button focus (BBF) together with continuous focus mode or AI servo mode should be the default setting in all DSLRs/DSLMs. You obviously did not speak about those focus modes since your video was focusing on landscape photography, but BBF actually allows you to keep your camera in CF/servo mode all the time. One less thing to think of. No matter if you shoot landscapes, portraits or sports. Another advantage of BBF: Since the shutter release button is no longer also responsible for the focusing, your camera will shoot slightly more pics per second.
Happy New Year ! Thanks for the tip .
Thanks Mark, a very useful item which I have learnt from you. I’ve found out how to alter my Nikon D610 and can’t wait to try it in the morning. Great videos and instructions from you as always, cheers.
Hi Mark, I discovered BBF recently and it is SO useful. even for newbies like me its such a good idea. Great explanation !
Completely agree Steve!
Great info.. Will definitely check the back button focus technique.
Very helpful and clear tutorial on using back button focusing.
in one video regarding the Focus stacking you mentioned that you used really high aperture, around F16, for each shot. I think that most of landscape lenses have best optical performance aroud F8. Why did you decide to go with such a high aperture, if you didnt need that long depth of field, because you blended more sharper pictures into one anyway? Btw perfect photography channel, learning so much here
Great video Mark, going to go see if there is a video available on back button focussing for my camera. Always look forward to your videos, they are always very informative and to the point!
Thanks a million Paul - really appreciate that!
If you have assignable buttons on the front of your camera, you can use one of those for focus. Handy if you're left-eye dominant like me (so face in the way of the buttons).
I often use it in 'continuous' mode, so, if I have a subject that may move, I leave the button pressed, and the focus will follow the now-moving subject.