Woolwax® Black Undercoating applied over existing rust.
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- Опубліковано 22 сер 2024
- This is our Woolwax® undercoat is black being applied over existing surface rust with the Woolwax® PRO undercoating gun. Notice how fast the Woolwax® provides full coverage over the area where it is applied. Woolwax® will seal out moisture and oxygen and stop the existing rust from progressing on contact.
Woolwax®... Better than all the rest. 888-341-4600 www.woolwaxusa.com
This is by far the best product on the market for keeping your ride rust free ! I am a big believer of woolwax and fluid film ! 3 vehicles I own are proof !
To each his own but in my opinion, CRC SP-400 is much better. Does not leave an oily mess like woolwax. Granted, when using CRC you need to use an additive to neutralize the rust first, but a nice waxy film is all that is left behind and lasts up to two years.
@@XOneStarX that is more parafin wax based. I make my own concoction using parafin wax. It sticks for years.
Cosmoline based products adhere better and are self correcting, overall I think is a better product. Used on several vehicles and is an amazing product. Seems that fluid film washes away quickly and woolwax peels over time
does woolwax and fluid film neutralize the wax? do you think it prevents any further rust? also if the car is no longer in a snow/salt state, will it continue to rust? or it only needs to be in a salty state to rust
@@jamesschmidt1120 Woolwax™ can never "peel" because it does not dry. It remains a wet liquid gel.
Both this and Fluid Film are good. Yet, apply rust converter, either Rust Kutter or Corroseal first. It will convert the rust from iron oxide into a stable inert matter that is bonded with the rest. It stops it. Is clear and turns black in 24 hours when the rust changes. Like when you blue a gun barrel, which is a stable oxidation. THEN apply this every year before winter starts. DO NOT PAINT, no rubberized materials either, this black pork fat is what works but first chemically stop the rust!
Nop. Tested along years. Rust converter only stop Lanolin or Cosmoline of doing its job.
@@zell863 Exactly!!! Rust converter will stop the lanolin from penetrating the rust and bonding to the surface of the metal!!! Lanolin can't displace moisture from the metal if rust converter is on it smfh
I have plenty of experience with wool wax and fluid film. If wool wax or fluid film are sprayed right over rust, it will continue to rust. Definitely need to neutralize the rust first before applying the wool wax.
@@56clipper2 I have bad experience with rust converter. Sprayed at bed of my truck in 2010 and it is how it looked in 2021 "Planing to go south to replace Bed, bumpers etc." go to nr 12.
@@zell863did you coat the porous rust converter with paraffin or lanolin ?
You guys always treat the easy to get at parts and never the inside of box sections where the rust hides.
Hi Neil. You absolutely have to treat the enclosed protected areas (doors, frame rails, rockers, etc.). That is why we make several extension wands with 360 degree nozzles for complete coverage in those areas. Also, since Woolwax does not dry, it is always active and creeping into the inaccessible areas of the sheet metal folds. Woolwax has excellent migration qualities. But for demonstration purposes there is no way to get a camera inside those tiny enclosed areas, so we can only show the exterior portions of the undercarriage.
I use Woolwax on the outside frame rales of my vehicle, camper, and boat trailer. Perfect for the exterior surfaces and thicker and prevents washing off.
That is awesome. Thank you so much. Woolwax™ also performs great inside cavities. There is a misconception that thinner is better in the cavities. And we have thinner formulas, so it's not about "the sale". Some people tell us that they use the Woolwax™ for the undercarriage and some thinner brand for the cavities because they think it creeps better. That’s just not accurate. The traditional Woolwax™ creeps and migrates just as well and leaves a thicker coating than a thinner formula. It may take us a bit longer to get there, but Woolwax™ will travel to all the same nooks and crannies and leave a much thicker surface build on the way.
On enclosed areas "surface-build" is everything. Thin formulas will creep and the surface build gets thinner and thinner all along the way as it "drops off" material until the coating is so thin, there is almost no surface-build to provide protection. This is an area where dirt, salt, and water can accumulate and sit idle. It requires a good thick surface- build to prevent that from reaching the metal frame.
Bottom line.... original thick Woolwax™ (or any viscous coating) will provide better protection for enclosed areas (frame rails, etc.) than thin formulas that leave a very fine surface-build.
We manufacture a thinner version called Woolwax™ “LV” (low viscosity) for those that insist on thinner product. But we don’t promote it much because it is not necessary and will not perform as well as traditional Woolwax™ in the enclosed cavities.
If for some reason you really want to thin out Woolwax™ for the inner cavities, all you need to do is add a bit of vegetable oil (Wesson, Mazzola, etc.) to the Woolwax™. Vegetable oil is very compatible with lanolin. 1/3 vegetable oil to 2/3 Woolwax™. The Woolwax™ quart bottles are 6”, so just fill the top 2” with vegetable oil.
A word of advice if you don't want to wear it while you spray it.
Start at the farthest point back, other side of the car, and bring it towards you. Then go to the other side and repeat. You can also wear a tyvec suit. They cost bout 10 dollars.
Don’t ya just hate when they miss a spot your wanting them to get.
That guy has a great voice!
I actually met a guy recently who put this on the undercarriage of his truck.
I'm on the fence with it myself because it will get in the way of repairs. You'll have to wipe that crud off.
Its not about the wet look, it's about what it does
@@bearxbunny1835 What it does is cause a mess to work around when you need to make a repair.
@@morecowbell235 I'd rather have to clean up a mess during repairs than have to buy a new vehicle from rust. It really isn't that bad though, I just did mine about a week ago and that wet look doesn't stay for that long, it kinda makes a harder top layer almost like a skin on top. It worked great for me and I absolutely will be using it again, and again, and again
@@bearxbunny1835 I take it rust is something you are unable to avoid. I'm lucky, its not something we deal with here
@@morecowbell235 Yeah well that's definitely an ace up your sleeve, rust is an unbelievably destructive force to otherwise great vehicles had they not been exposed to it for sure
No need to remove rust before coating dear?
No, in salt areas everything is rusted so it’s a huge waste of time. These kind of oily treatments actually stick better to rust due to the porous nature of rusty metal.
I recently changed from fluidfilm to woolwax.
Hey guys. So I recently bought a used car with a good amount of rust underneath. Might be a dumb question. But I heard some people recommend how its good to use this product every fall. It's about to be spring right now and I dont want to wait for fall to treat it, there is no way I could wait that long. (I really want to take care my car) But anyways, I have a good amount of rust undernearth my car that I want to take care of right away before it becomes worst as times goes on from driving. And also I kinda want to apply it every fall eventually but I dont know how I would do that to be honest since I want to apply this product as soon as possible.
Hi. I used Woolwax on my 18 year old pick pick up. First I used a wire brush to get whatever rust I could off of the underside. Then I used the spray cans and gave the truck a good coating. I did this in the fall. I don’t use my truck every day. Maybe 5-6000 miles per year. For me once a year is ok. You can apply thus product a couple times a year especially if you live in the rust prone areas. No expert here. Just did a LOT of research first. Best of luck to you.
Can I get it on a spray can and brush it on the flat parts
Hope its not flammable the exhaust got a nice coat as well. 😬
will f it’s not flammable it will just smoke and burn off
Classified as "non-flammable".
its the best smell when that stuff starts burning from exhaust overspray... it takes a few miles but i pull into the DD drivethru the car is stankin' away sitting in line LOL
Hello, thanks for the video. As I understand wool wax needs to be applied yearly as it slowly wears off. I wonder why don’t you use a rust eater/rust converter before spraying?
Thank you for the comment Henrik. A lot of people do use a rust converter for areas that are moderately to heavily rusted. And we always recommend that if the area is easily accessible, why not ? It certainly cannot hurt. If people prefer to apply a rust converter of some type first, and then do a protective coating of Woolwax on top of that, we fully support that idea. It's more work and most people are not up for that, but it will probably pay off in the long run.
@@woolwax thanks a lot for the advice. Have an old Volvo P1800 which needs some love and attention. Planning to fix the surface rust next summer with rust converter and wool wax.
I would donit every year regardless
Well Frankly - no one will remove all that rust by hand because its work - real work
I do a few trucks a week. Takes 3 to 5 hours of cleaning and I charge 380. I will be going up in price but yeah its a ton of work but worth it. I'm near the cape in Massachusetts.
Proper way to do that is to knock an clean all that rust not cover it with undercoating cuz now you have to deal with rust eating on the inside
Negative. Of course it's nice to brush away any existing rust if you can get to it. But not critical. Three things must be present for rusting to occur: iron, oxygen, and water, Woolwax will form a wet gel barrier on the metal surface (iron) and stop oxygen and water from getting to the base metal. Woolwax will stop the existing rust from progressing on contact.
Will this drip in driveways and make a mess
Absolutely not. Woolwax™ is a very viscous non-drip formula.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html
Did you heat it to help it flow? How warm was it outside?
When applying the woolwax, if it were to drip on my driveway, will it cause a black stain? Can it be pressure washed off if so?
It's just lanolin oil so any degreaser can wash it off
Don’t get overspray on exhaust
Is it safe to spray rubber bushings?
Many people have concerns about Woolwax® on rubber materials. Almost everything on an undercarriage is oil resistant. We have had no known issues of Woolwax® having any negative effects on oil resistant rubber components. We have seen discussions about rubber breaking down and failing through the normal deterioration process. Rubber does dry out, cracks, and fails during its normal life cycle. Some people believe this may be a result of an undercoat application, but more than likely the rubber component has just reached the end of its life cycle through normal deterioration and exposure to vehicle heat and road chemicals.
We have heard of issues with the soft spongy rubber weather strips around the bottom of the door frames. This is an open-cell sponge rubber and is not oil resistant. There have been reported instances of this type of open-cell soft rubber swelling up when being exposed to lanolin-based products.
Is it just covering up the rust and making it look pretty ? or is it going to slow the rust down Am asking because I purchased a wrangler that spent 6 years in Wisconsin .And it has surface rust .It is now in Missouri Hoping that applying WoolWax will slow it down
Woolwax can be applied over any existing surface rust. Woolwax will stop the rust from progressing on contact by creating a film barrier that will prevent moisture and oxygen from getting to the base metal. Woolwax is not a rust converter or remover. Any heavy bubbling or flaking rust should be brushed off before applying Woolwax. It is never too late to treat your vehicle with Woolwax. It may be rusted, but you can do a great deal to stop the rust from progressing with a good treatment of Woolwax at the beginning of each snow/ice season.
Rust requires (3) components. Iron, oxygen and moisture. Woolwax will create a film barrier that oxygen and moisture cannot penetrate, so the rust cannot progress.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html
@@woolwax thank you for your quick response to my question
Rust is like cancer, you can slow it down, but keeps coming back!
Woolwax® can be applied over any existing surface rust. Woolwax® will stop the rust from progressing on contact by creating a film barrier that will prevent moisture and oxygen from getting to the base metal. Woolwax® is not a rust converter or remover. Any heavy bubbling or flaking rust should be brushed off before applying Woolwax®. It is never too late to treat your vehicle with Woolwax®. It may be rusted, but you can do a great deal to stop the rust from progressing with a good treatment of Woolwax® at the beginning of each snow/ice season.
Does the wetness make things sloppy messy when doing work underside? Thinking exhaust & suspension
Most people accept it as a tradeoff for a nearly rust free vehicle with added years and less repairs to the vehicle. Many mechanics tell us they get dirty working on a vehicle anyway. Other vehicle owners have posted that for the one or two times a year they work on their undercarriage, they can deal with it. Another option is a drying rubberized coating. But that has it's downsides also. So wet or dry? It's a personal preference.
Fantastic I will look into purchasing a kit.. also is it necessary to remove the rust ?
If there is any loose scale you should
Woolwax® can be applied over any existing surface rust. Woolwax® will stop the rust from progressing on contact by creating a film barrier that will prevent moisture and oxygen from getting to the base metal. Woolwax® is not a rust converter or remover. Any heavy bubbling or flaking rust should be brushed off before applying Woolwax®. It is never too late to treat your vehicle with Woolwax®. It may be rusted, but you can do a great deal to stop the rust from progressing with a good treatment of Woolwax® at the beginning of each snow/ice season.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html
Is it dyed? Its not like a dumb rubberized paint? Great product if its dyed. Best of both worlds nice look and still get corrosion protection
msteiny Steinbacher it is dyed rubberized is junk period this is what you want
it has graphite mixed in to get the black color...not rubberized as mrtylerg506 believes
kbitbit it’s not what I believe it’s the truth
Woolwax is the lanolin based undercoating. It comes in traditional Straw (clear) color, and also in Black.
It is an oily wax product. It does not dry and crack like traditional undercoating. I am getting ready to spray my new silverado with it. There is no way I would use traditional undercoating as it does more harm than good.
Jack stands supporting that ???
How do you prep well for this? I'm assuming loose rust should be wire brushed off for best results? So that the product adheres for best efficacy? Secone- do you pressure wash undercarriage first, and wait for it to really dry so moisture will not be sealed in? And thirdly- can I use a car wash bay pressure washer on undercarriage after a heavy snow salt event in the northeast? Or will that diminish the coating? How to get a load of salt off without doing so? Thanks!
Thank you for your interest Julia. All the questions you asked are really answered well and in detail on our FAQ page at the link below. Just let us know if we can provide anything additional.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html
The lanolin won't seal in moisture, it displaces it almost like it sucks it out so metal has no contact with it and therefore cannot rust
Is this a graphite added product to make it black?
No. Graphite is a darker shade of gray, but it is not black. Also , the black pigment coloration is added to Woolwax™ during the extreme heating/cooling process of the raw wool grease. Adding a pigmentation to the formulation after it was manufactured will not be color-fast at all. We tried them all and they all color separated and washed off. At least one of our competitors does it this way and the black coloration separates and washes off.
Now fill the hole with oil until it drips out somewhere....
What is the psi set at on the compressor
My gun does not spray like that
90 psi
What gun is that? What are main differences between pro and standard gun?
Usually around 90psi works well. Make sure that the nozzle at the end is not screwed in too far. Just screw it in 1 or 2 turns. Just enough to make the connection. That is the wide open position. The more you screw it in, the more you close the opening and restrict the flow.
Cover the exhaust before you apply 🤷♂️
Where can you buy woolwax black?
Does it come in Black? It did you do something to make it black??
Woolwax comes in both Straw(clear) and black.
Ickes78 yes it has a tint in it to look black.
Does it stay wet to the touch or congeal?
Woolwax® does not dry. When applied Woolwax® will create a wet gel-like barrier that moisture and oxygen cannot penetrate. Without moisture and oxygen there can be no oxidation. because Woolwax® is non-drying, it is always active and migrating into the inaccessible areas of the doors, seams and folds of the sheet metal, and all the other difficult to reach areas. Woolwax® is very thick and will not wash off easily. An annual application will easily protect your vehicle through the snow/ice/salt season. In the enclosed areas, (doors, frame rails, rockers, etc.) the Woolwax® will provide protection indefinitely (years). It is only the exposed areas of the undercarriage that should be coated annually with Woolwax®.
Never can find this stuff in stores
Thank you for your interest. We hear that often. Most of out retailers are the smaller independent auto parts Dealers. Some NAPA, Oreilly, and Advance stores carry Woolwax, but not all. If you can't find it near you, it can be ordered rom our site directly. You will get it in 2-3 days with free shipping and no sales tax outside of MA.
www.woolwaxusa.com/
Stays wet?
Woolwax® does not dry. When applied Woolwax® will create a wet film-like barrier that moisture and oxygen cannot penetrate. Without moisture and oxygen there can be no oxidation. because Woolwax® is non-drying, it is always active and migrating into the inaccessible areas of the doors, seams and folds of the sheet metal, and all the other difficult to reach areas. Woolwax® is very thick and will not wash off easily. An annual application will easily protect your vehicle through the snow/ice/salt season. In the enclosed areas, (doors, frame rails, rockers, etc.) the Woolwax® will provide protection indefinitely (years). It is only the exposed areas of the undercarriage that should be coated annually with Woolwax®.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html
I wish I had used a dry product such as Cosmoline. My truck is an oily mess with woolwax
John Kim I used Cosmoline inside my door panels. As regards the underbody, correct me if I’m wrong, but wouldn’t the surface have to clean in order for Cosmoline to adhere to the metal?
The other issue I’ve had with Cosmoline is the overspray is difficult to get off of the body.
I haven’t done it yet, but I’m going to try woolwax on underbody
R YOUR TRINING TO PIS OFF YOUR MCANIC ALL WET FORGET IT
If that's the same stuff I I'm thinking of..... don't buy it. Rubberized undercoautings are shit and it speeds up the rusting process. It locks in moisture in any little imperfection and it makes your frame and the rest of the undercarriage rust from the inside out. Another fact mechanics absolutely dread working on vehicles that have there kinds of rubberized undercoatings, most mechanics just decline a repair when they see that it has that type of undercoating
Thank you for your comment. However Woolwax is not a rubberized undercoating and NOTHING at all like it. We agree with your comment on rubber undercoating, and Woolwax is an alternative to any type of rubber coating. Woolwax is a non-drying lanolin based coating. For more information please see our FAQ at the link below.
www.woolwaxusa.com/FAQs_ep_45-1.html