Greetings from Northern Vermont! Been spraying hot bar & chain oil for over 25 years and never looked back. If the oil stays on, it works!! Great videos and service , thanks for posting..
We do the same treatment as you do, here in Ireland. We used do the hard coat stuff - until we swiftly realised it was useless. Our system also treats the insides of box sections - which is the really important part. If you only treat the outsides, it's half a job. We learnt that fast too. :-) Great video btw.
I've been spraying fluid film on my vehicles for a few years now. It works fantastic. But the amount of people that still argue with me to spray a hard undercoating or paint over rust is astounding. If you use a hard undercoating or paint it will 100% ruin your vehicle. I'm a diesel mechanic and I've seen double C channel frames rust through and break because the owner decided he was tired of looking at rust and had it painted. We have crane trucks in our fleet that are 20+ years old and have no rust because, over the years, leaking hydraulic lines have coated the truck with oil. Oil or wax undercoatings work I see it first hand. The oldest trucks in our fleet are crane trucks because of the oily mess they are. And for anyone thinking it sucks working underneath a car or truck that had been coated with fluid film or similar product, it doesn't. It actually keeps screws and other fasteners from seizing up due to rust. It keeps electrical connectors and wiring free from corrosion too. And over time it does thicken up and it's really not that bad working under there.
I have this argument with people on the phone everyday. No matter what I do I can't convince them why they should have put a hard coating over their Rusty vehicle
Many years ago I worked for an old farmer. He bought a 72 Ford pickup and a 72 torino new. He sprayed everything underneath and inside doors and trunk with trans fluid mixed with diesel. Everything that was sprayed still looked new. But everything that wasn't was rusted away"sheetmetal". Last time I saw the vehicles were in 98.
@Alex B Sure is. But then everything thing is almost every peice on a car. The asphalt you drive on . I could go on for days. Thank you for you opinion.
I worked for an under coater, and there was planning, prep, masking, cleanup, and quality control on every type of vehicle. There was after sales service and annual checks if the customer wanted it. We lived in a salt air laden community, and if it was made of metal, and it was out of doors, it would corrode.
I'll be scheduling fall of 22 for my sierra. Had it fluid filmed by yinz guys in 2019 and it still looks good. My truck don't see salt so I go every other year. Steel city is awesome they do a very thorough job there.
Been using quality Bar and Chain oil for over 25 years up here in northern Vermont and it has served me well. I still drive a 1997 K1500 GMC suburban with a non compromised frame after all these years...Knowledge of application and being meticulous is key...
I used a heavily thinned oil based paint to repaint my drive on hoist. Used to be a brand new blue rotary but the rust took over and turned it brown. Descaled for days before putting that solvent like paint on that leftover rust and its really held up even now with soaking wet rust buckets on it.
I've ben disassembling some older Chevy square body trucks one in particular was hard undercoated only places that still look good had oil leaks that had soaked into the hard undercoating and seamed to keep it pliable. Maybe I'll try hard undercoating mixed with ATF the best of both worlds . Making it more durable that wool wax but still will have to reapply from time to time . Any thoughts ?
Had to like before the video even started! People need to know what kind of shit those rubber coating does to their cars! Many are accelerating rust and sending their cars to the junk yard pre-maturely by doing those coating and they think they are saving their cars.
I've seen some vehicles that had been sprayed and did no descale and it ended up corroding faster than bare metal on unsprayed spots. It really sucks because some people pay a lot of money for it and it does the complete opposite of what the owner wanted.
As the hard coat pulls away from the rusty metal and cracks, it traps the salt soaked water so it does not dry in those pockets. The result is it will speed up the deterioration process. I just use axle grease under the body, it doesn't wash off very easily and is cheap. May not give the kiddy look you want and be a little messy when working underneath, but it will stop the deterioration better than all those expensive products! Waste oil will work great also but seems to wash off easier than grease
On something with new rust thicker like axle grease is better but on something with rust you lose almost all penetration properties where you would want something thinner like oil So new thick, rusty thin
good video. What type of wet undercoating do you all use on used vehicles? I am researching what to use on my Sequoia and there are freaking like 10,000 products!
Glad I live in the South and don't really have to worry about my 22 yr old Tahoe and my 21 yr old F350 7.3 4x4..that only has had factory spraying to my knowledge. I will be having both hot oiled as soon as I can find the people around here.
I recently cleaned all the scale off my Tacoma and then primed and painted everything. My next step is to apply wool wax and fluid film to the entire thing. I figure if the wool wax wears off at least there will be a paint barrier to protect until I can get it recoated. I live outside Buffalo, so I’ve seen my share of bad winters.
Hey there, can I ask what you will do to remedy this? Can you soda black stuff off, or will you juts use heat and a scraper? I’ve purchased vehicle just like this and am researching what my best options are
Hello’ I live in BC, Canada, I have a 2021 ford ranger, not undercoated from brand new. (My mistake) but I want to get it undercoated before the coming winter. Obviously it’s a “used” vehicle but it’s only a year old. Hardly any rust that I’ve noticed underneath. Nothing like the vehicle in this video. Would I still be okay to get a rubberised undercoating applied? Not many oil undercoating places where I live. Thanks
I have a 1995 f150 I took for body work and paint and the shop had the bed off for a couple months, causing the frame and gas tanks to rust quite a bit. When I pointed it out they put por15 on it. I really wish they had just kept the frame covered while they had the bed off, rather than sit out in the rain and snow. I've now covered it all with wool wax and hoping it lasts. This was my father in law's truck and he passed away 5 years ago. I want to own this truck the rest of my days. At some point I am going to have to take the bed off and really clean up the frame now. In any case, the wool wax is great. On a full sized truck I spent about 30 minutes with the air sprayer and think it's pretty thorough. Hopefully it prevents the spread of rust
If/when you get around to getting your frame cleaned up, I highly recommend that you invest in an electric burnishing tool and extra drums to go with it. I used one a month or so ago on my 1994 Ranger chassis that went through over 20 Ohio winters and it made the scale and rust pretty much disappear. Mine is branded "Restorer" but they're also sold under Craftsman and other brand names. It doesn't matter what brand you buy because the ones like mine are all made by the same company (Restorer) and all of the accessories interchange between brands. I paid around $150 for mine but it came with a bag and a bunch of extras. I believe you can find the basic kit, as well as the Craftsman (Lowe's sells them) for well under $100.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt I actually bought a tool called the Eastwood Contour SCT (Surface Conditioning Tool) for that purpose. I think it's similar to the Restorer you're talking about
@@joeweaver9913 I looked at the Eastwood tool and it is similar. Mine is more enclosed though. The drums still interchange though. I have a lot of Eastwood stuff including the MIG 175 welder and I love all of it.
@@joeweaver9913 I used the 40something grit rust removal drum for the heavy stuff then switched to progressively finer wire wheels and sanding drums. My frame came out very nice even after all of the Ohio winters. I then used Eastwood coatings on it.
I been starting to make mine all i used was bar & chain oil with paraffin wax melted in and sprayed on hot. But now i'm going to update the recipe to used motor oil, grease, Boiled Linseed Oil, paraffin wax and maybe a little diesel fuel to thin it if it needs it and will be hot sprayed on, hoping it comes out like a grease with a gummy shell on the outside when cooled and cured that would allow it to last a good long time before needing another coat.
Well you are right.. I am a steel coatings expert. And usually undercoating of all kinds will trap moisture and actually cause more rust than if it was just left bare steel.. the proper way to undercoat is to prep and sand as much rust off as possible.. then use a acid etch primer/or epoxy sealer To recondition the steel then apply your choice of undercoating system.. steel primer/sealer is the key to prevent and slow rust..
Ziebart is famous for shoddy work. Personally, I have our daily drivers hot oiled at a local shop every fall. The place has been doing it for years and we've never had an issue even though we live right in the heart of the rust belt.
Im wire wheeling the pans on a 69 vw down to bare metal ( less than mm diameter scaling spots). Is a rubberized coating over primer going to hold up in your opinion or should i go a different route? Not looking for hiring, just a guy and his son son trying to keep the car around i rebuilt with my dad as a kid.
Rubberized coatings are pretty much the same thing as zeibarts coating any type of chip or tear in the coating it's game over for the metal your trying too protect. The fix is something that'll stay "wet" too the touch like fluid film or blaster surface shield so if theirs any chip it'll creep in and protect the metal. Even a wax based product works well too. Avoid any hardcoating product cause they ALL fail.
I’ve been using the Boeshield T9 spray instead. I don’t get why people think that hard undercoating will work on a rusty bottom especially sprayed on shoddily.
Are you guys local to W Pa? I had my '09 Silverado Ziebarted in 2021. Truck had only 16,000 miles at the time. Maybe I should bring it to you for an evaluation?
Every truck I owned I've used soft coat like fluid film or used oil mixed with diesel. I get comments all the time how the frames and underbody look almost new. I only spray once a year. And any visible areas from standing or crouching down get sanded down to shinny metal and painted black.
Wow, perhaps the prepping with the job was to wash the under wells and frame without allowing it to fully dry. Make sure its bone dry when applying for best results.
I mix a gallon of bar and chain oil, with one tube of LUCAS red tacky grease and heat it up in a big electric crockpot and spray it on with my undercoating gun . Sticks on nicely
This is my comment in my thread at Ford forum. I do not understand how nowhere I bump in this simple concept at Internet. If paint is on the car spraying any sort of paint or Cosmoline over it is useless because it will fall off at top of existing paint if existing paint fall off. Only that make sense there is Lanolin, called Fluid Film or Woolwax or so, because Lanolin moves and will go into cracks of paint and stop rust. If paint did fell of and Lanolin is not there than we have paint over rust situation as nobody can go under car every day to check cracks in paint and rust will start in a day or so. Then is time to use Cosmoline, for me, or Por 15 or whatsoever someone like over rust. I do not like Lanolin as I work under car and will destroy clothes. However, Lanolin in Cavities from begging look like way to go as we cannot check for rust and cracks in paint in cavities. Verry smart comments from you about rust proofing in this video. Probably will put it in some comments at forums.
-- The bottom of my Tahoe looks like a mess but I did it myself. Very curious to know what you think of my process. 1) 5 days wire brushing to descale. 2) Banging Frame and cross members with hammer. Pressure washer inside all. Compressed air dry. Vacuum and magnets inside frame for the rest. Repeat process again. 3) 4 days dry time. 4) 2 coats of Coroseal Rust converter inside frame/crossmembers/ everywhere. 1 week dry time. 5) 5 coats of Fluid film inside frame, 12 days dry time total. 6) Outside frame/everywhere. CRC rust inhibitor, two coats. One week dry time. 7) Two coats RP-342, One week dry time. 8) Two coats Farm Equipment Paint. (Figure that will armor from pebbles and road debris). Then let the vehicle sit unused for one month. Took me spring, summer and most of fall to do it myself. But I got it all. 2004 Chevy Tahoe which was pretty clean to begin with. Inner doors, body panels, under trim basically got the same treatment. It was my first time doing this, so I wonder of anyone here that knows what they're really doing would approve of this process. Please let me know. It's a winter beater, but in this economy, it needs to last. And those shops that tell you they can do it in a day. They're out of their minds. Any positive or negative feedback is welcome.
@@jokly1264 -- Well I can confirm you're right. The other products are oozing through the equipment paint. First I thought it was more rust. Turns out it was the products. The good news, the equipment paint isn't directly on metal, so I can probably get away treating everything once a year with out the paint. Thank you for your reply.
@@MarkJacksonGaming Of course. You definitely have gone above and beyond with your treatment and it should work very well. Moving forward I would just recommended doing the 1 coat of fluid film per year to keep up the protection.
@@jokly1264 -- My thought exactly. Now that the hard part is out of the way, come next September, wash it, and give it a gallon of fluid film. Heh, and yeah, I did go scorched earth on the treatment. Rust belt here.
Good idea to undercoat a new vehicle because there is no rust....also don't wash the underside to clean debris off and if u do,please use a blow gun to dry all surface areas including inside frame rails as undercoat will trap water in areas and rust out
When you say hard coat is it referring to a cosmoline based product or a rubberized undercoat? I’ve heard cosmoline is excellent but what you are showing looks like classic black rubberized undercoat.
We're referring to either rubberized undercoating or the type of under coding that dries over. Coslomine used to make a great grease based coating but they discontinued it and there new product is horrible.
they should of done something like Fluid Film or Surface Shield first to remove the loose rust. That stuff gets under the semi loose stuff and lifts it up.
I’m glad you mentioned that hardcoat does have a use but only on perfect underbodies on new vehicles. They get a lot of flak primarily because of scummy sales tactics and improper use like this example.
I NEVER do hard undercoats. I like to use Sta-bil rust stopper or fluid film. The frame will virtually last forever using that stuff every year or two.
08 GMC original undercoat blisters and peels water gets underneath it and the rust begins.The truck frames were rusty when the factory did them new. Plus that undercoat is garbage.
I just had my 23 Tacoma undercoated by LINE X Valugard 160 - did I make a mistake? guy from shop told me it's safe to drive right after the spray while it's a rainy day. My undercoat feels soft to touch which I think is wax material (is this safe?)
East Coast Tri State Area, I'm new to this undercoat stuff so I have so many questions but I thought normally you'd have to wait for the stuff to dry and cure before driving in the rain, but the shop told me it was fine to drive right after.@@steelcityoilundercoating6305
It seems to me this is more a matter of a “person” not doing their Job properly. Zeibart has been around a long time and has a pretty good reputation in rust prone place, like Montreal where I grew up. The applier did a crappy prep job and it seems like it would have been more effective if applied when the vehicle was a lot newer. That said j think a combination of a soft protective agent applied over a hard coat would be the absolute best combination for the salt/rust belt. In live in PA also and am religious about undercarriage washing and pressure cleaning crevice areas. Very informative video.
I think boiled linseed oil every other year is the way to go. It soaks into the rust then hardens to a thick gummy finish in 4-5 days. It's fairly cheap and safe, and you won't get filthy if you have to work under the truck.
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 It's really a just a slow drying polymer. It's old fashioned enamel paint binder without any pigment. It can mildew, but I've never seen that on a car in the midwest. Like any coat, any scale should be knocked off first.
@@louis5555gmail i think they make spray cans of it but most people i believe hook a spray bottle to an air compressor and just spray the bottom components of the car
Last time I checked they were. Pretty weak form of protection. I remember not too long ago one of there plants had leaky roofs that caused surface rust on new trucks. Pretty poor quality control if you ask me.
Covering over used vehicles with rust and debris also worse as it traps in moisture and accelerates corrosion. I saw a vehicle on YT from North, and it was rotten due to this type of work.
Works good yes but tge acid will surface rust it underneath not a huge deal but a business could never spray that would get shut down in a day. Also no one's gonna spray diesel fuel and mixed motor oil on a brand new vehicle. But yes it works.
Penetrating oil, transmission fluid, and 80 w 90 gear oil. It absolutely stops rust period. It stays sticky from the gear oil and the pentrating oil makes it creep, the transmission fluid kills rust. Works like charm over serious rust.
I have been using a product called PFC undercoat over 2 years! I took my finger and scraped it and looks like bare shiny metal! Is this good or bad sign it's covered with layers
Hard Coatings on New Vehicles work very well. I had my New 96 AstroVan Undercoated by the Dealer in 96 and as it sits, there is Absolutely Zero rust or corrosion. I Im in NY and Underneath looks brand new still. Used vehicles should get the soft coating.
never buy a vehicle with hard undercoat. not only does it often make it harder to work on the vehicle when the time comes but it often is used to cover up damage and is often put on over rust. the vehicle is still rusting under the undercoat. dealers will often slap on undercoat to hide things as well. never buy a vehicle with slapped on undercoat. do it right and use temporary undercoating's that you have to reapply every year or two. you want to be able to see whats going on under the undercoat.
I almost paid £1200 for a service like this for my '10 Jeep with lots of rust all over the underbody. I've stripped almost everything off the bottom of the truck and currently in the process of sanding and grinding everything back to bare metal, as part of a complete restoration. It's only after I started doing this properly that I truly realised how insanely pointless it would have been to pay someone to spray over the rust with some sort of hard coat.
I had my truck zbardhi two years ago and within two years a trusted both sides of my frame out and I never could drive it again so I'll never do ziebart again I'll go to the oil base from crown
After you get all the rust off.... I think a drench spray of wd40 followed by a good car wash and spray a week later...followed by further spot treatments followed by another wd40 drench followed by a car wash another week later and hard spray...followed by a glass bead blast....not a coating...followed by a good wd40 drench folowed by that car wash one more time and hard spray....let dry......engine anti rust primer......let dry a week.....engine anti rust primer...let dry a week....engine anti rust primer...give it a week......engine flat black ....a week...and again and again and then idk some kind of a tough coat
one problem i have with this story he said they put it in a wash bay then under coating how would he know that, did he stayed around that long for them to do all that and the truck had to stay over night . but yes I agree they did a bad job on spraying it and prep they did rip him off and done a shitty job
Greetings from Northern Vermont! Been spraying hot bar & chain oil for over 25 years and never looked back. If the oil stays on, it works!! Great videos and service , thanks for posting..
We do the same treatment as you do, here in Ireland. We used do the hard coat stuff - until we swiftly realised it was useless. Our system also treats the insides of box sections - which is the really important part. If you only treat the outsides, it's half a job. We learnt that fast too. :-) Great video btw.
Dude total respect to you. Been following you for awhile. If i eventually pass through Pennsylvania I'm bringing my vehicle to you.
I've been spraying fluid film on my vehicles for a few years now. It works fantastic. But the amount of people that still argue with me to spray a hard undercoating or paint over rust is astounding. If you use a hard undercoating or paint it will 100% ruin your vehicle. I'm a diesel mechanic and I've seen double C channel frames rust through and break because the owner decided he was tired of looking at rust and had it painted. We have crane trucks in our fleet that are 20+ years old and have no rust because, over the years, leaking hydraulic lines have coated the truck with oil. Oil or wax undercoatings work I see it first hand. The oldest trucks in our fleet are crane trucks because of the oily mess they are.
And for anyone thinking it sucks working underneath a car or truck that had been coated with fluid film or similar product, it doesn't. It actually keeps screws and other fasteners from seizing up due to rust. It keeps electrical connectors and wiring free from corrosion too. And over time it does thicken up and it's really not that bad working under there.
I have this argument with people on the phone everyday. No matter what I do I can't convince them why they should have put a hard coating over their Rusty vehicle
I found this comment to be very helpful and informative. Thanks mr. bloodbain88
What do you spray underneath?
@@firingallcylinders2949 Fluid Film. I might try NH Oil one of these days.
What about sanding your frame and spraying it with rust reformer like rustoleum?
Many years ago I worked for an old farmer. He bought a 72 Ford pickup and a 72 torino new. He sprayed everything underneath and inside doors and trunk with trans fluid mixed with diesel. Everything that was sprayed still looked new. But everything that wasn't was rusted away"sheetmetal". Last time I saw the vehicles were in 98.
or used motor oil back in the day.
I've been spraying my cars with used motor oil out of an old siphon feed paint gun for years. I do it a couple times a year and it works well.
Some of us know that is highly irresponsible to the environment
@Alex B Sure is. But then everything thing is almost every peice on a car. The asphalt you drive on . I could go on for days. Thank you for you opinion.
@@AlexB-up6fdwho cares
I worked for an under coater, and there was planning, prep, masking, cleanup, and quality control on every type of vehicle. There was after sales service and annual checks if the customer wanted it. We lived in a salt air laden community, and if it was made of metal, and it was out of doors, it would corrode.
I'll be scheduling fall of 22 for my sierra. Had it fluid filmed by yinz guys in 2019 and it still looks good. My truck don't see salt so I go every other year. Steel city is awesome they do a very thorough job there.
Been using quality Bar and Chain oil for over 25 years up here in northern Vermont and it has served me well. I still drive a 1997 K1500 GMC suburban with a non compromised frame after all these years...Knowledge of application and being meticulous is key...
Yes bar oil works great we just couldn't do it as a business would be shut down by osha
I used a heavily thinned oil based paint to repaint my drive on hoist. Used to be a brand new blue rotary but the rust took over and turned it brown. Descaled for days before putting that solvent like paint on that leftover rust and its really held up even now with soaking wet rust buckets on it.
I've ben disassembling some older Chevy square body trucks one in particular was hard undercoated only places that still look good had oil leaks that had soaked into the hard undercoating and seamed to keep it pliable. Maybe I'll try hard undercoating mixed with ATF the best of both worlds . Making it more durable that wool wax but still will have to reapply from time to time . Any thoughts ?
Had to like before the video even started! People need to know what kind of shit those rubber coating does to their cars! Many are accelerating rust and sending their cars to the junk yard pre-maturely by doing those coating and they think they are saving their cars.
I've seen some vehicles that had been sprayed and did no descale and it ended up corroding faster than bare metal on unsprayed spots. It really sucks because some people pay a lot of money for it and it does the complete opposite of what the owner wanted.
Agreed but even if D scaled and you put a hard coating on top the rust will continue
As the hard coat pulls away from the rusty metal and cracks, it traps the salt soaked water so it does not dry in those pockets. The result is it will speed up the deterioration process. I just use axle grease under the body, it doesn't wash off very easily and is cheap. May not give the kiddy look you want and be a little messy when working underneath, but it will stop the deterioration better than all those expensive products! Waste oil will work great also but seems to wash off easier than grease
On something with new rust thicker like axle grease is better but on something with rust you lose almost all penetration properties where you would want something thinner like oil
So new thick, rusty thin
thanks for this I have the same truck I am doing frame repairs on now people are recommending por15 would you recommend oil undercoating ?
Best info. Subbed. Thanks for the video.
Makes me glad I live in South Texas & i don't have to worry about rusting vehicles, just hurricanes.
good video. What type of wet undercoating do you all use on used vehicles? I am researching what to use on my Sequoia and there are freaking like 10,000 products!
Glad I live in the South and don't really have to worry about my 22 yr old Tahoe and my 21 yr old F350 7.3 4x4..that only has had factory spraying to my knowledge. I will be having both hot oiled as soon as I can find the people around here.
I recently cleaned all the scale off my Tacoma and then primed and painted everything. My next step is to apply wool wax and fluid film to the entire thing. I figure if the wool wax wears off at least there will be a paint barrier to protect until I can get it recoated. I live outside Buffalo, so I’ve seen my share of bad winters.
i dont think the paint first is helping you mate. should have jumped right to the rustproofing.
I've tried a ton of things and the best I've found on new or old for protection and longevity are cosmoline type products (not name brand specific)
Good video! Thanks for sharing!
What if you prepped the metal with a rust converter before undercoat application?
Would it benefit to spray with ospho to neutralize rust better then follow up with fluid film? Or would I have to wash off the ospho first?
Hey there, can I ask what you will do to remedy this? Can you soda black stuff off, or will you juts use heat and a scraper? I’ve purchased vehicle just like this and am researching what my best options are
Hello’ I live in BC, Canada, I have a 2021 ford ranger, not undercoated from brand new. (My mistake) but I want to get it undercoated before the coming winter. Obviously it’s a “used” vehicle but it’s only a year old. Hardly any rust that I’ve noticed underneath. Nothing like the vehicle in this video. Would I still be okay to get a rubberised undercoating applied? Not many oil undercoating places where I live. Thanks
Do you have any recommendations who can do a good quality undercoating in colorado? Thanks
My father-in-law's 2003 Silverado had a hard undercoating on the chassis, it rusted out hard in the front. Chunks gone.
I have a 1995 f150 I took for body work and paint and the shop had the bed off for a couple months, causing the frame and gas tanks to rust quite a bit. When I pointed it out they put por15 on it. I really wish they had just kept the frame covered while they had the bed off, rather than sit out in the rain and snow.
I've now covered it all with wool wax and hoping it lasts. This was my father in law's truck and he passed away 5 years ago. I want to own this truck the rest of my days. At some point I am going to have to take the bed off and really clean up the frame now.
In any case, the wool wax is great. On a full sized truck I spent about 30 minutes with the air sprayer and think it's pretty thorough. Hopefully it prevents the spread of rust
If/when you get around to getting your frame cleaned up, I highly recommend that you invest in an electric burnishing tool and extra drums to go with it. I used one a month or so ago on my 1994 Ranger chassis that went through over 20 Ohio winters and it made the scale and rust pretty much disappear. Mine is branded "Restorer" but they're also sold under Craftsman and other brand names. It doesn't matter what brand you buy because the ones like mine are all made by the same company (Restorer) and all of the accessories interchange between brands. I paid around $150 for mine but it came with a bag and a bunch of extras. I believe you can find the basic kit, as well as the Craftsman (Lowe's sells them) for well under $100.
@@MikeBrown-ii3pt I actually bought a tool called the Eastwood Contour SCT (Surface Conditioning Tool) for that purpose. I think it's similar to the Restorer you're talking about
@@joeweaver9913 I looked at the Eastwood tool and it is similar. Mine is more enclosed though. The drums still interchange though. I have a lot of Eastwood stuff including the MIG 175 welder and I love all of it.
@@joeweaver9913 I used the 40something grit rust removal drum for the heavy stuff then switched to progressively finer wire wheels and sanding drums. My frame came out very nice even after all of the Ohio winters. I then used Eastwood coatings on it.
Good advice !!
I been starting to make mine all i used was bar & chain oil with paraffin wax melted in and sprayed on hot.
But now i'm going to update the recipe to used motor oil, grease, Boiled Linseed Oil, paraffin wax and maybe a little diesel fuel to thin it if it needs it and will be hot sprayed on, hoping it comes out like a grease with a gummy shell on the outside when cooled and cured that would allow it to last a good long time before needing another coat.
So how do you feel about POR-15 or Eastwood rust encapsulater ? Is this what was on your example on the truck in this video.
Both of those products long term will make things much worse
I just got a ram with 8200 miles on it. Do you think hard coat or liquid? Frame still has the factory paint on it.
Going to reapply NHUO which has given me results since it’s first and only apply 2 years ago
Well you are right.. I am a steel coatings expert. And usually undercoating of all kinds will trap moisture and actually cause more rust than if it was just left bare steel.. the proper way to undercoat is to prep and sand as much rust off as possible.. then use a acid etch primer/or epoxy sealer
To recondition the steel then apply your choice of undercoating system.. steel primer/sealer is the key to prevent and slow rust..
Negative, Steel primer and undercoating are what were used on truck on video.... anything that dries over will fail in the Northeast.
whats your opinion on cosmoline wax for undercoating?
I got this stuff called Corrison Free, similar to Fluid Film (clear/gel type spray). Screw this hard coating stuff
I use lubriplate heavy duty gearshield.. works awesome
I’m having my Silverado, New Hampshire oil undercoated tomorrow. Hope it goes well!
NH oil works very well, as long as it's not a new Silverado
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 Wait why not? Are you not supposed to use NHOU on a new car?
@@PocketsandOutlaw GM full-size Vehicles come with a wax coating you should never apply oil the first-year you risk it melting the wax off years later
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 Oh I see, thanks for the info!
So should I just paint my frame? After rust is removed obviously
How is the truck ruined? thats 4 years up here in Canada
Ziebart is famous for shoddy work. Personally, I have our daily drivers hot oiled at a local shop every fall. The place has been doing it for years and we've never had an issue even though we live right in the heart of the rust belt.
Hey thats a wax based coating? Thank you
Im wire wheeling the pans on a 69 vw down to bare metal ( less than mm diameter scaling spots). Is a rubberized coating over primer going to hold up in your opinion or should i go a different route? Not looking for hiring, just a guy and his son son trying to keep the car around i rebuilt with my dad as a kid.
Rubberized coatings are pretty much the same thing as zeibarts coating any type of chip or tear in the coating it's game over for the metal your trying too protect. The fix is something that'll stay "wet" too the touch like fluid film or blaster surface shield so if theirs any chip it'll creep in and protect the metal. Even a wax based product works well too. Avoid any hardcoating product cause they ALL fail.
did you guys needle gun that truck?
I’ve been using the Boeshield T9 spray instead. I don’t get why people think that hard undercoating will work on a rusty bottom especially sprayed on shoddily.
Fluid Film is life.
What do you think of Valugard?
Now what? I unknowingly made this mistake. Now I want to strip it and use fluid film. How do I do this?
Do you think line x does decent undercoaring?
Are you guys local to W Pa? I had my '09 Silverado Ziebarted in 2021. Truck had only 16,000 miles at the time. Maybe I should bring it to you for an evaluation?
Yes we have two locations in Western Pennsylvania
Steelcityundercoating.com
Every truck I owned I've used soft coat like fluid film or used oil mixed with diesel. I get comments all the time how the frames and underbody look almost new. I only spray once a year. And any visible areas from standing or crouching down get sanded down to shinny metal and painted black.
Wow, perhaps the prepping with the job was to wash the under wells and frame without allowing it to fully dry. Make sure its bone dry when applying for best results.
I mix a gallon of bar and chain oil, with one tube of LUCAS red tacky grease and heat it up in a big electric crockpot and spray it on with my undercoating gun . Sticks on nicely
This is my comment in my thread at Ford forum.
I do not understand how nowhere I bump in this simple concept at Internet.
If paint is on the car spraying any sort of paint or Cosmoline over it is useless because it will fall off at top of existing paint if existing paint fall off. Only that make sense there is Lanolin, called Fluid Film or Woolwax or so, because Lanolin moves and will go into cracks of paint and stop rust.
If paint did fell of and Lanolin is not there than we have paint over rust situation as nobody can go under car every day to check cracks in paint and rust will start in a day or so. Then is time to use Cosmoline, for me, or Por 15 or whatsoever someone like over rust.
I do not like Lanolin as I work under car and will destroy clothes. However, Lanolin in Cavities from begging look like way to go as we cannot check for rust and cracks in paint in cavities.
Verry smart comments from you about rust proofing in this video. Probably will put it in some comments at forums.
-- The bottom of my Tahoe looks like a mess but I did it myself. Very curious to know what you think of my process.
1) 5 days wire brushing to descale.
2) Banging Frame and cross members with hammer. Pressure washer inside all. Compressed air dry. Vacuum and magnets inside frame for the rest. Repeat process again.
3) 4 days dry time.
4) 2 coats of Coroseal Rust converter inside frame/crossmembers/ everywhere. 1 week dry time.
5) 5 coats of Fluid film inside frame, 12 days dry time total.
6) Outside frame/everywhere. CRC rust inhibitor, two coats. One week dry time.
7) Two coats RP-342, One week dry time.
8) Two coats Farm Equipment Paint. (Figure that will armor from pebbles and road debris).
Then let the vehicle sit unused for one month.
Took me spring, summer and most of fall to do it myself. But I got it all. 2004 Chevy Tahoe which was pretty clean to begin with. Inner doors, body panels, under trim basically got the same treatment.
It was my first time doing this, so I wonder of anyone here that knows what they're really doing would approve of this process. Please let me know. It's a winter beater, but in this economy, it needs to last.
And those shops that tell you they can do it in a day. They're out of their minds. Any positive or negative feedback is welcome.
I doubt farm paint would stick after all of that. I stick to your steps 1 and 5.
@@jokly1264 -- Well I can confirm you're right. The other products are oozing through the equipment paint. First I thought it was more rust. Turns out it was the products. The good news, the equipment paint isn't directly on metal, so I can probably get away treating everything once a year with out the paint.
Thank you for your reply.
@@MarkJacksonGaming Of course. You definitely have gone above and beyond with your treatment and it should work very well.
Moving forward I would just recommended doing the 1 coat of fluid film per year to keep up the protection.
@@jokly1264 -- My thought exactly. Now that the hard part is out of the way, come next September, wash it, and give it a gallon of fluid film. Heh, and yeah, I did go scorched earth on the treatment. Rust belt here.
Paint over FF? Im curious how long itll stay attached tbh.
Do Uou have someone here in Los Ángeles that does a good job ??
Good idea to undercoat a new vehicle because there is no rust....also don't wash the underside to clean debris off and if u do,please use a blow gun to dry all surface areas including inside frame rails as undercoat will trap water in areas and rust out
When you say hard coat is it referring to a cosmoline based product or a rubberized undercoat? I’ve heard cosmoline is excellent but what you are showing looks like classic black rubberized undercoat.
We're referring to either rubberized undercoating or the type of under coding that dries over. Coslomine used to make a great grease based coating but they discontinued it and there new product is horrible.
Fluid Film for the win!
nah, surface shield for the win!
they should of done something like Fluid Film or Surface Shield first to remove the loose rust. That stuff gets under the semi loose stuff and lifts it up.
I’m glad you mentioned that hardcoat does have a use but only on perfect underbodies on new vehicles.
They get a lot of flak primarily because of scummy sales tactics and improper use like this example.
West System Epoxy line. Clean, degrease, grind, sand, scuff, degrease, dry, base epoxy coat, multiple barrier coats, final "hard coat," clean amine blush, dry, scuff, multiple coats of hi-temp cosmetic paint in alternating colors, multiple clear coats, then wax regularly. Absolute armor.
What's your warranty?
Clean Bar and Chain oil in a yard sprayer or boiled linseed oil
I NEVER do hard undercoats. I like to use Sta-bil rust stopper or fluid film. The frame will virtually last forever using that stuff every year or two.
You don’t wash the underbody at all after you apply the fluid film correct? All winter long don’t wash the underneath?
Is auto armor better than ziebart?
08 GMC original undercoat blisters and peels water gets underneath it and the rust begins.The truck frames were rusty when the factory did them new. Plus that undercoat is garbage.
I’ve had great luck with raptors rust inhibitor and paint. 🤷🏻♂️
I just had my 23 Tacoma undercoated by LINE X Valugard 160 - did I make a mistake? guy from shop told me it's safe to drive right after the spray while it's a rainy day. My undercoat feels soft to touch which I think is wax material (is this safe?)
What part of county do you live in?
East Coast Tri State Area, I'm new to this undercoat stuff so I have so many questions but I thought normally you'd have to wait for the stuff to dry and cure before driving in the rain, but the shop told me it was fine to drive right after.@@steelcityoilundercoating6305
I have used "Fluid film" for over three years now on my 1999 chevy tahoe. Any rust is long gone. Easy to apply, cost effective.
Long gone? That's not how rust works
I know a guy who would spray undercoating on his suburban every time he saw rust in the wheel well.
Funniest shit ever.
It seems to me this is more a matter of a “person” not doing their Job properly. Zeibart has been around a long time and has a pretty good reputation in rust prone place, like Montreal where I grew up. The applier did a crappy prep job and it seems like it would have been more effective if applied when the vehicle was a lot newer.
That said j think a combination of a soft protective agent applied over a hard coat would be the absolute best combination for the salt/rust belt.
In live in PA also and am religious about undercarriage washing and pressure cleaning crevice areas.
Very informative video.
that half a shock really is a CRIME!
Yep my buddy sprayed bed liner under his truck he's gonna regret that one.
I would move further south!
Surprised there hasn't been a class action lawsuit against Ziebart. They have singlehandedly ruined a lot of vehicles.
I think boiled linseed oil every other year is the way to go. It soaks into the rust then hardens to a thick gummy finish in 4-5 days. It's fairly cheap and safe, and you won't get filthy if you have to work under the truck.
It works but you have to steam wash it off every year that oil breaks down amd will mix with water
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 It's really a just a slow drying polymer. It's old fashioned enamel paint binder without any pigment. It can mildew, but I've never seen that on a car in the midwest. Like any coat, any scale should be knocked off first.
Fluid film or Cosmolene diy and that’s better than covering up rust like this truck
How do you apply the Fluid Film?
@@louis5555gmail i think they make spray cans of it but most people i believe hook a spray bottle to an air compressor and just spray the bottom components of the car
Amsoil heavy metal protector. Works great if there is no rust to beginwith
Is Chevy still using wax on the frames?
Last time I checked they were. Pretty weak form of protection. I remember not too long ago one of there plants had leaky roofs that caused surface rust on new trucks. Pretty poor quality control if you ask me.
Covering over used vehicles with rust and debris also worse as it traps in moisture and accelerates corrosion. I saw a vehicle on YT from North, and it was rotten due to this type of work.
Diesel fuel and used motor mixed in a pressure sprayer works for me
Works good yes but tge acid will surface rust it underneath not a huge deal but a business could never spray that would get shut down in a day. Also no one's gonna spray diesel fuel and mixed motor oil on a brand new vehicle. But yes it works.
Can you use something to prevent RUST on the exhaust system?🤔
There is really nothing. Buy a stainless steel exhaust is the answer
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 gotcha, I appreciate the reply, thanks.✌
You have to spend the time and do it yourself! Cant trust nobody!!
Yeah. Zibart should be out of business.
My 1990 chevy 1500 had less rust than that. Crazy.
Penetrating oil, transmission fluid, and 80 w 90 gear oil. It absolutely stops rust period. It stays sticky from the gear oil and the pentrating oil makes it creep, the transmission fluid kills rust. Works like charm over serious rust.
That road salt is nasty shit.
Would you recommend using fluid film?
They did my new 2021 Tacoma with Fluid Film and I will have it redone annually. It's fantastic stuff.
Good stuff. Did a test on clean and rusted metal and that shit works good
Someone needs to expose those scammers
I have been using a product called PFC undercoat over 2 years! I took my finger and scraped it and looks like bare shiny metal!
Is this good or bad sign it's covered with layers
Do you have thoughts on Line-X undercoatings?
Hard to answer you need to be specific there are hundreds of Line-X locations and they all offer different types of undercoating
OK I did not know that... do you know which ones work best for the undercoating for a new 4Runner. @@steelcityoilundercoating6305
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 I found out from Line-X the product is called Valugard.
Hard Coatings on New Vehicles work very well. I had my New 96 AstroVan Undercoated by the Dealer in 96 and as it sits, there is Absolutely Zero rust or corrosion. I Im in NY and Underneath looks brand new still. Used vehicles should get the soft coating.
That’s because you hard coated a clean vehicle. Can’t do it with a crusty bucket!!!
Fluid film melts the hard undercoating right off.
Yeah but that doesn't solve the problem because it doesn't get it all off
@@steelcityoilundercoating6305 its better than leaving the unchecked rust
That customer got ripped off. $800?!
never buy a vehicle with hard undercoat. not only does it often make it harder to work on the vehicle when the time comes but it often is used to cover up damage and is often put on over rust. the vehicle is still rusting under the undercoat. dealers will often slap on undercoat to hide things as well. never buy a vehicle with slapped on undercoat. do it right and use temporary undercoating's that you have to reapply every year or two. you want to be able to see whats going on under the undercoat.
Okay? Okay? Yes, it's okay.
I almost paid £1200 for a service like this for my '10 Jeep with lots of rust all over the underbody. I've stripped almost everything off the bottom of the truck and currently in the process of sanding and grinding everything back to bare metal, as part of a complete restoration. It's only after I started doing this properly that I truly realised how insanely pointless it would have been to pay someone to spray over the rust with some sort of hard coat.
use fluid film
I had my truck zbardhi two years ago and within two years a trusted both sides of my frame out and I never could drive it again so I'll never do ziebart again I'll go to the oil base from crown
After you get all the rust off.... I think a drench spray of wd40 followed by a good car wash and spray a week later...followed by further spot treatments followed by another wd40 drench followed by a car wash another week later and hard spray...followed by a glass bead blast....not a coating...followed by a good wd40 drench folowed by that car wash one more time and hard spray....let dry......engine anti rust primer......let dry a week.....engine anti rust primer...let dry a week....engine anti rust primer...give it a week......engine flat black ....a week...and again and again and then idk some kind of a tough coat
one problem i have with this story he said they put it in a wash bay then under coating how would he know that, did he stayed around that long for them to do all that and the truck had to stay over night . but yes I agree they did a bad job on spraying it and prep they did rip him off and done a shitty job