I know my scale was drifting in the video. I didn’t catch it when I was making the video. The battery was dying. I had these same results 2 years ago when I stopped using the adjustable disk. It’s way too inconsistent. It can even be dangerous with a low powder charge.
I use mine almost exclusively but I have found that when setting it, it needs to rotate around on the turret (causes powder to settle from vibrating) and the hopper needs to be well over half full for me to get consistent drops.
I use the autodisk with the adjustable disk exclusively for my 45 Colt on the Lee turret press. The CC tables and settings are never accurate, so I use that as a starting point only. I use HP-38 and Trailboss. When the autodisk is shaken during turret rotation it helps the powder settle, so you need to cycle the press when making adjustments. Mine has always been consistent when used this way.
Jesse, you are 100% right about the variability of the adjustable charge bar. It is not a good product IMHO. I use multiple precision digital scales and had the exact same issue. If you use the Auto Disk there are 3 things u can do to accurately meter Titegroup and Unique. I customized my Auto Disks by lightly sanding and polishing the top of each disk (on a flat glass surface) so that the wiper works better and powder grains do not get trapped. I dusted the powder bin with dry graphite to reduce powder cling. Also I bought extra Auto Disks and side-drill the charge holes to accept coarse-thread allen set screws. Screwing the set screws in and out let me fine-tune the powder charge. I can now precisely meter even fine flake powders accurately.
I've been a re-loader for many years using Lee dippers and the auto disk and other powder throwing devices but use a beam scale to confirm.Volumetric is only an approximate measurement and through many years I can tell you that if you take for example, Unique powder, it could be whatever flavor you like, from batch to batch from the manufacturer if you weigh out volume they can vary by as much as 5 tenths of a grain off so you need to adjust. Humidity, and granular sizes all contribute to actual weight. My tendency is to weigh often and err on a tenth or two low. If accuracy is what I'm going for I spend the time to weigh every charge on the beam. If I'm hunting or plinking with my reloads a 3 tenth spread doesn't bother me.
Just one thought. If you want 8.5 and you get 8.7, 8.8, 8.9 why are you not readjusting after a few tries. It does take a little while for a new powder to adjust to the powder measure. Also a good scale will help with same numbers you are looking for, I keep my hopper at least 1/2 full. When it gets to 1/2 I fill it up again. Never had an issue with wrong charges with Tite Group or Trail Boss or other light charges. Keep the hopper clean so the powder will drop correctly. Once in a while mine may have a 0.1 grain deviation but has never been a problem. Also I use H110, Unique and others without any issues.
Regardless of the adjustment, it takes a very special combination of powder and persuasion to get the variance down. I've been putting seed slick in my powder for 3000+ rounds of unique and 700x. It helps a lot. But I still get a variance that wouldn't been suitable for rifle reloading. Pistol plinking is a completely different story
Jesse. Another good and informative video. Like you said some of that variation could be dangerous if a person is not keeping a close eye on it. Thanks for sharing and take care.
You should be weighing charges if +- .1 gives you fits. Also tap the case to empty the primer pocket. Just saying. I found that by not using the same case over and over. Try using a pan. Also clean the powder touching parts with a dryer sheet. Anti Static. I had to play with my auto drum in the winter when static was the issue.
I’m not throwing a fit over +/_ .1. I don’t like it when it is set a 3.9 and throws .5 that’s what bugs me. When I use a regular disk in it the measurer works great. This adjustable one is junk. Thanks for watching.
@@jesseboutdoorsreloading Yeah, I don't have one but, it looks like a weird shape when it's closed way down. I understand why people like Bullseye and Titegroup, but even normal variation with tiny charges makes me nervous.
@@curtwuollet2912 yep. That’s why I bought it to do small changes. I ended up wasting money on this and bought a Lee auto drum so I could get that low of a charge.
I bought LEE auto drum powder measure and the upgrade kit. Followed all the instructions. the measure still spins and I cannot get a consistent load. Going back to the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. less than 30.00 never had a problem with accuracy of drops.
Hi Jesse. A good test! Watching the scale inset, I did notice that your scale was drifting off ‘zero’ by +/- 0.1 grain between some loads. That would account for some variation in measurement too, though not a lot. 🤛🏻🔫🇺🇸
The RCBS uniflow will consistently throw unique and other similar powders. My old Herter's will do the same. I haven't used my 55 in so long with unique I can't say whether or not it works as well with it. My brass smith wasn't as good (in my limited testing) and I got rid of it, but mainly because it had an aluminum body and steel drum. I wish I'd kept it and given it a longer term chance, but I have several including three types of LEE measures. Any cast iron measure having a steel drum tends to work consistently with larger flake powders though. If I ever had one that didn't it was because the metering chamber either needed cleaning or deburred or both. You can automate the uniflow as well, but it's pretty expensive to do so. I had the old LEE micro disk (discontinued) years ago and I 3D printed me a couple for my auto disk since LEE doesn't offer them anymore. Anything I do on a progressive I can usually get done with the LEE auto drum, auto disk, micro and/or charge bar. I prefer to use a heavy iron measure and single stage for anything I don't want to be off a tenth or two.
The Auto Disk will also throw the occasional squibby low charge with the fixed smaller cavities like .30cc when attempting to do light 38 Special charges with Titegroup but not Bullseye Despite theoretically good powder geometry the diameter of the cavity is small enough TG bridges This discovered through extensive chronograph testing Not every shot But often enough that made me question it in that fixed cavity size Live learn and adapt
I haven't used one of those measures, just a Lee perfect. Stopped using Unique and Tight Group years ago for the same reason (uneven metering). W244 and CFE pistol meter much more consistently for me. Really liking the W244, cost effective and really accurate, burn rate right next to Unique. Still old school Rock Chucker here...😎
your scale drifted 0.4grs throughout your test. I don't get that much variance with any of my lee measures. Certain powders like the unique i tap the hopper once before each throw and it is dead on every time.
Yes I didn’t notice that in the video. My battery was dying. It still does the same thing with a good battery though not throwing constantly. When it has a low charge there was barely any in the case. I use the disk it works and I have no issues with my auto drum measurer just this adjustable disk.
@@jesseboutdoorsreloading I have the same problems with titegroup. I don't use my adjustable either. I think it is the shape of the hole. I just use the regular disk. I have some that are older and will go down to 1.7grs. That disk does not come with the newer measures. Mine was from the older one with the Square powder hopper.
Used the Auto Disk a lot and also bought the adjustable charge bar for 2.7gr Titegroup but checked the charge on my scales and it just wasn't consistent. Never used it again.
I did not find these charges inconsistent. I use the Lee autodrum and it has the same variation, obviously depends on the granulation of the powder. But when the charge variates, it's always less powder charge.
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Wow I think this has made up my mind of buying an auto disc or auto drum. I want the adjustability to dial in pistol loads, but a variation of more than .1 or .2 is way to much. Let alone the average of .4 you were getting on most powders or the huge variety on the tite group. It’s a shame the auto disc looked like it was a better powder thrower.
Yes it definitely gives you wiggle room doing it that way. It definitely reminds you to check every throw. When it did the .05 only like 3 flakes came out. Thanks for watching.
Dismissing neck turning while emphasizing mandrels is a huge mistake! Mandrels accurately shape the inside of the neck but if your neck wall thickness is inconsistent so will your neck tension be inconsistent!! If you want consistent neck tension using mandrels, you must have consistent neck wall thickness!! LOL...... Eric Cortina does it so I shall........ LOL!! Have you seen his equipment?? He uses an IDOD which is a mini lathe designed specifically to turn cartridge necks inside and out!! Do you know why he doesn't clean his brass?? He replaces it often and carbon inside the neck actually acts as a lubricant reducing seating force. You need a small fortune to do as Eric Cortina!!
Absolutely nothing....LOL I watched your video and moved on to another for which I was trying to comment and for some stupid reason the comment posted on your video. Sorry about the confusion! I watch a lot of reloading stuff to see what others are up to and watched yours even though I don't use anything Lee. Cheers!! @@jesseboutdoorsreloading
You worry to much about your weight, unless you are a competition shooter it's useless. I've been using a powder drop since the 70s never had any need to check every few rounds... You waste to much time.
I said I wasn’t worried about a tenth of a grain. But when it’s set at 3.9gr and drops .5gr you don’t think that’s an issue? Also when I have a powder dropper I trust I only check it so often. This things sucks and could hurt someone.
I usually keep my Dillon one on my Dillon press. My Lee auto drum works great. I just wanted to show everyone why I don’t like the adjustable auto disk. Thanks for watching.
u must be duing something wrong i been using this for 15 yrs, first your reloading .380 which is a waste of round number 1. number two u must be duing something wrong,. how about loading a man load, andything less then 5 grains is worthless. !!!
I know my scale was drifting in the video. I didn’t catch it when I was making the video. The battery was dying. I had these same results 2 years ago when I stopped using the adjustable disk. It’s way too inconsistent. It can even be dangerous with a low powder charge.
I gave up on electronic scales after my 3rd one wasted so much time with zero floating around etc.... mechanical so much quicker to use
I use mine almost exclusively but I have found that when setting it, it needs to rotate around on the turret (causes powder to settle from vibrating) and the hopper needs to be well over half full for me to get consistent drops.
Thanks for the info. If I use the disk it’s good. Just not with the adjustable. I’ll have to try it on my turret press again👍🇺🇸
I use the autodisk with the adjustable disk exclusively for my 45 Colt on the Lee turret press. The CC tables and settings are never accurate, so I use that as a starting point only. I use HP-38 and Trailboss. When the autodisk is shaken during turret rotation it helps the powder settle, so you need to cycle the press when making adjustments. Mine has always been consistent when used this way.
Thanks for the comment and watching.
Jesse, you are 100% right about the variability of the adjustable charge bar. It is not a good product IMHO. I use multiple precision digital scales and had the exact same issue. If you use the Auto Disk there are 3 things u can do to accurately meter Titegroup and Unique. I customized my Auto Disks by lightly sanding and polishing the top of each disk (on a flat glass surface) so that the wiper works better and powder grains do not get trapped. I dusted the powder bin with dry graphite to reduce powder cling. Also I bought extra Auto Disks and side-drill the charge holes to accept coarse-thread allen set screws. Screwing the set screws in and out let me fine-tune the powder charge. I can now precisely meter even fine flake powders accurately.
Thanks for the comment and watching.
I had the same issue with mine as well - do not use it anymore - Titan sells discs for that measure for small powder charges.
Thanks for the info.
I've been a re-loader for many years using Lee dippers and the auto disk and other powder throwing devices but use a beam scale to confirm.Volumetric is only an approximate measurement and through many years I can tell you that if you take for example, Unique powder, it could be whatever flavor you like, from batch to batch from the manufacturer if you weigh out volume they can vary by as much as 5 tenths of a grain off so you need to adjust. Humidity, and granular sizes all contribute to actual weight. My tendency is to weigh often and err on a tenth or two low. If accuracy is what I'm going for I spend the time to weigh every charge on the beam. If I'm hunting or plinking with my reloads a 3 tenth spread doesn't bother me.
Just one thought. If you want 8.5 and you get 8.7, 8.8, 8.9 why are you not readjusting after a few tries. It does take a little while for a new powder to adjust to the powder measure. Also a good scale will help with same numbers you are looking for, I keep my hopper at least 1/2 full. When it gets to 1/2 I fill it up again. Never had an issue with wrong charges with Tite Group or Trail Boss or other light charges. Keep the hopper clean so the powder will drop correctly. Once in a while mine may have a 0.1 grain deviation but has never been a problem. Also I use H110, Unique and others without any issues.
Cause with this even if you adjust it the same thing happens and it goes all over the place.
Regardless of the adjustment, it takes a very special combination of powder and persuasion to get the variance down. I've been putting seed slick in my powder for 3000+ rounds of unique and 700x. It helps a lot. But I still get a variance that wouldn't been suitable for rifle reloading. Pistol plinking is a completely different story
Jesse. Another good and informative video. Like you said some of that variation could be dangerous if a person is not keeping a close eye on it. Thanks for sharing and take care.
Thanks for watching.
You should be weighing charges if +- .1 gives you fits.
Also tap the case to empty the primer pocket. Just saying. I found that by not using the same case over and over. Try using a pan. Also clean the powder touching parts with a dryer sheet. Anti Static. I had to play with my auto drum in the winter when static was the issue.
I’m not throwing a fit over +/_ .1. I don’t like it when it is set a 3.9 and throws .5 that’s what bugs me. When I use a regular disk in it the measurer works great. This adjustable one is junk. Thanks for watching.
@@jesseboutdoorsreloading Yeah, I don't have one but, it looks like a weird shape when it's closed way down. I understand why people like Bullseye and Titegroup, but even normal variation with tiny charges makes me nervous.
@@curtwuollet2912 yep. That’s why I bought it to do small changes. I ended up wasting money on this and bought a Lee auto drum so I could get that low of a charge.
I bought LEE auto drum powder measure and the upgrade kit. Followed all the instructions. the measure still spins and I cannot get a consistent load. Going back to the Lee Perfect Powder Measure. less than 30.00 never had a problem with accuracy of drops.
Hi Jesse. A good test! Watching the scale inset, I did notice that your scale was drifting off ‘zero’ by +/- 0.1 grain between some loads. That would account for some variation in measurement too, though not a lot. 🤛🏻🔫🇺🇸
Yes I noticed in editing that my heat kicked on. You can see the yellow flag blowing in the background.
That junk scale probably played a role as well
Does the same on all 3 of my scales. Thanks for watching.
The RCBS uniflow will consistently throw unique and other similar powders. My old Herter's will do the same. I haven't used my 55 in so long with unique I can't say whether or not it works as well with it. My brass smith wasn't as good (in my limited testing) and I got rid of it, but mainly because it had an aluminum body and steel drum. I wish I'd kept it and given it a longer term chance, but I have several including three types of LEE measures. Any cast iron measure having a steel drum tends to work consistently with larger flake powders though. If I ever had one that didn't it was because the metering chamber either needed cleaning or deburred or both. You can automate the uniflow as well, but it's pretty expensive to do so. I had the old LEE micro disk (discontinued) years ago and I 3D printed me a couple for my auto disk since LEE doesn't offer them anymore. Anything I do on a progressive I can usually get done with the LEE auto drum, auto disk, micro and/or charge bar. I prefer to use a heavy iron measure and single stage for anything I don't want to be off a tenth or two.
Thanks for the comment and watching.
The Auto Disk will also throw the occasional squibby low charge with the fixed smaller cavities like .30cc when attempting to do light 38 Special charges with Titegroup but not Bullseye
Despite theoretically good powder geometry the diameter of the cavity is small enough TG bridges
This discovered through extensive chronograph testing
Not every shot
But often enough that made me question it in that fixed cavity size
Live learn and adapt
The powder geometry is such that the smaller granuled Bullseye does not bridge….Titegroup does. Just enough bigger that problems arise.
Agree with JB Outdoor, I bought one and throw it away.
The micro disk fixed cavities, now discontinued, are wide but shallower and due to this geometry bridge less than the skinny 0.30 cavity does with TG
I haven't used one of those measures, just a Lee perfect. Stopped using Unique and Tight Group years ago for the same reason (uneven metering). W244 and CFE pistol meter much more consistently for me. Really liking the W244, cost effective and really accurate, burn rate right next to Unique. Still old school Rock Chucker here...😎
Most of my measures do go with titegroup. I’ve been wanting to try W244 just because it’s cheaper.
highly recomend!@@jesseboutdoorsreloading
your scale drifted 0.4grs throughout your test. I don't get that much variance with any of my lee measures. Certain powders like the unique i tap the hopper once before each throw and it is dead on every time.
Yes I didn’t notice that in the video. My battery was dying. It still does the same thing with a good battery though not throwing constantly. When it has a low charge there was barely any in the case. I use the disk it works and I have no issues with my auto drum measurer just this adjustable disk.
@@jesseboutdoorsreloading I have the same problems with titegroup. I don't use my adjustable either. I think it is the shape of the hole. I just use the regular disk. I have some that are older and will go down to 1.7grs. That disk does not come with the newer measures. Mine was from the older one with the Square powder hopper.
@@tommeboy3334 I think Andy told me that Titan Reloading makes a disk for smaller charges now. If this was my main powder measurer I’d look into it.
Used the Auto Disk a lot and also bought the adjustable charge bar for 2.7gr Titegroup but checked the charge on my scales and it just wasn't consistent. Never used it again.
@@brussel4242 it’s horrible with titegroup.
I did not find these charges inconsistent. I use the Lee autodrum and it has the same variation, obviously depends on the granulation of the powder. But when the charge variates, it's always less powder charge.
My auto drum is great! I bought it cause this didn’t work for me in the auto disk.
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Wow I think this has made up my mind of buying an auto disc or auto drum.
I want the adjustability to dial in pistol loads, but a variation of more than .1 or .2 is way to much.
Let alone the average of .4 you were getting on most powders or the huge variety on the tite group.
It’s a shame the auto disc looked like it was a better powder thrower.
@@northernironforge I like my auto drum way better.
Mine works perfectly
Thanks for watching.
Should the hopper always be over half full Jesse ?
Doesn’t have to. My Lee auto drum throws constantly with different powder levels.
I have never been confident with any powder measure below half with powder. I think more weight works best. Just my half cent.
@@jturner5227 👍
That why i use the middle weight of any recommended Power ..
Yes it definitely gives you wiggle room doing it that way. It definitely reminds you to check every throw. When it did the .05 only like 3 flakes came out. Thanks for watching.
Imo, too much variation in charges, I now use lee auto drum.
@@robertbush8327 I like my auto drum also.
Dismissing neck turning while emphasizing mandrels is a huge mistake! Mandrels accurately shape the inside of the neck but if your neck wall thickness is inconsistent so will your neck tension be inconsistent!! If you want consistent neck tension using mandrels, you must have consistent neck wall thickness!! LOL...... Eric Cortina does it so I shall........ LOL!! Have you seen his equipment?? He uses an IDOD which is a mini lathe designed specifically to turn cartridge necks inside and out!! Do you know why he doesn't clean his brass?? He replaces it often and carbon inside the neck actually acts as a lubricant reducing seating force. You need a small fortune to do as Eric Cortina!!
I have absolutely no clue to what you said has to do with this video about an adjustable powder disk using pistol brass. But thanks for watching.
Absolutely nothing....LOL I watched your video and moved on to another for which I was trying to comment and for some stupid reason the comment posted on your video. Sorry about the confusion! I watch a lot of reloading stuff to see what others are up to and watched yours even though I don't use anything Lee. Cheers!! @@jesseboutdoorsreloading
@@ragnarrloobrok70 gotcha 👍
😜🤘🏼❤️🩹😜
👍🇺🇸
You worry to much about your weight, unless you are a competition shooter it's useless. I've been using a powder drop since the 70s never had any need to check every few rounds... You waste to much time.
I said I wasn’t worried about a tenth of a grain. But when it’s set at 3.9gr and drops .5gr you don’t think that’s an issue? Also when I have a powder dropper I trust I only check it so often. This things sucks and could hurt someone.
You should use the Dillon.
I usually keep my Dillon one on my Dillon press. My Lee auto drum works great. I just wanted to show everyone why I don’t like the adjustable auto disk. Thanks for watching.
u must be duing something wrong i been using this for 15 yrs, first your reloading .380 which is a waste of round number 1. number two u must be duing something wrong,. how about loading a man load, andything less then 5 grains is worthless. !!!
Kinda hard to use it wrong. Also you act like it’s the only round I shoot so obviously you havent watched my others videos. Thanks for watching.