@Jeffery Woods - Thanks! In retrospect, I should’ve color-filled the slide’s engravings a bit, and maybe gave it a mild distressing. I think I’ll reach out to my friend and see if he’d like that done..🤔
Where could I go to get this professionally done in las vegas when I receive my 1911 I want gold gun and green tiger stripes whats the pricing on something like that
Hi, sorry for the late reply..Didn’t get the notification.. Thanks, YT.. 😡 Not sure about pro Duracoat painters in Vegas, but if you don’t want to attempt it yourself, there’s a guy in Florida you could try. Tell him I sent ya over. “Predator Ink” www.predatorink.com He does incredible work
How long did you wait to apply and take off the tape for the overlay? I am planning on doing a two tone duracoat job and didn't want to fowl up the base layer or the top layer.
Aaron Kalina - Thanks, Good question.. I like to let the base coats dry/ cure at room temp for at least 24 hrs BEFORE applying any stencils. You COULD apply stencils after 1-2 hrs, but you’ll have MUCH better results by waiting a day.. Once the stencils are applied, try to focus the spray “in between” the stencils (wherever possible) so the paint doesn’t build up very much upon each stencil.. (which is also wasteful) Then.. I like to wait another 24 hrs to SLOWLY peel the stencils.. (always my favorite step- the reveal😉) The key is to not rush it, take your time, enjoy the process, and have fun! Wait a day btwn the major steps, and you’ll be very pleased with the results... 😎👍🏼
@aggsup Town - Hi, great question. When applied properly, it is VERY durable, and like a fine wine, it does truly get better with age... With excessive holstering/ unholstering, you “might” get a slight bit of wear... but only where it makes contact inside the holster. But even if it does, having a bit of wear looks kinda cool.. Plastic/ Kydex holsters are more forgiving, and have less physical contact points than say, leather or cowhide. I’m a borderline Fudd, so I used to run a lot of leather holsters, but Kydex is cheaper, and has zero “break-in” time..
gib859 - Hi.. the base coat was Gold, the darker color is Durablue “Matte Blue-Black.” Sometimes it looks blue, sometimes it looks black.. depending on what type of light it’s in. We went with a Gold basecoat to hopefully compliment the Titanium Nitride (TiN) finish on the heavy barrel. When the original finish is sandblasted before painting, it can take on a “silver” finish.. is that what you were referring to?
Yes, sir. The finished product in the light of day looks wildly different (no better, nor worse) than what was shown in artificial lighting. Great job. I can’t wait to Duracoat my 1911 next week 👍
gib859 - Cool👍🏼.. Though Duracoat does go on pretty thinly, if the slide-to-frame fit on your 1911 has tight tolerances, I highly recommend limiting the number of coats on the internal rails. (It can impede smooth cycling if there’s too many coats at that crucial point of contact). Also, if in addition to the frame, you’re painting the slide.. don’t forget to paint the round, rear tip of the extractor. (The part of the extractor that is visible to the shooter). It gives a more consistent look... good luck, have fun!
Indica Strain - No, not in this case. I find that where the tolerances are tight, such as where the slide meets the frame, it can impede smooth operation. The finish will improve with time, just like a fine wine 🍷
Yo Vlasik... what’s up buddy!! It’s Ryze!! Maestro told me about your channel! Great looking builds! Love the Riptile!! Hope all is Well!! - -----WARPIGS------
duracoat , ughh . cerakote is better ! i am surprised someone hasnt said that yet . now with that out of the way . i have used duracoat since it came out . great stuff . and i have never had to redue any thing i have ever done . fallow the directions and it lasts great . duracoat gets its 'bad' rep from internet guru's who started in forums and youtube . saying ' its just paint ' and put it on like paint . but the same guru's who say and do that will fallow the directions to the letter when cerakoteing some thing . lol . they both have the same prep work before spraying . and no oven needed for duracoat . but it will help the drying time if heated and cured . great job ! how does the gold look over time ? i am thinking on doing a trigger and hammer on a 1911 in gold . od green on frame and slide and hk black on the safety , grip safety and slide release .
Sitting here with my G34 with two duracoat colors and a stencil kit...now you have another subscriber. Best damn duracoat video I've seen!
The Hippie Gunner - Thanks! Much appreciated! And thanks for subbing, more projects coming soon! 😎👍🏼
See now you got me about to paint my Rock island A2 FS Tact 2... Great video 👌 keep em coming
Thanks! And enjoy the process!
I have another pistol painting project I’m doing right now, will be uploading soon..
Here’s a hint: “🇺🇸”
@@p99shooter can't wait to see it
Hell of a job!!! Looks great!!!
@Jeffery Woods - Thanks! In retrospect, I should’ve color-filled the slide’s engravings a bit, and maybe gave it a mild distressing.
I think I’ll reach out to my friend and see if he’d like that done..🤔
Great job man! That music though!
Thanks, Jerome! Sorry if the soundtrack is cringy .. 😑
I’ve been told that I’ve improved in that area with my last few vids.. 😂
Where could I go to get this professionally done in las vegas when I receive my 1911 I want gold gun and green tiger stripes whats the pricing on something like that
Hi, sorry for the late reply..Didn’t get the notification.. Thanks, YT.. 😡
Not sure about pro Duracoat painters in Vegas, but if you don’t want to attempt it yourself, there’s a guy in Florida you could try. Tell him I sent ya over. “Predator Ink”
www.predatorink.com
He does incredible work
How long did you wait to apply and take off the tape for the overlay? I am planning on doing a two tone duracoat job and didn't want to fowl up the base layer or the top layer.
Aaron Kalina - Thanks, Good question.. I like to let the base coats dry/ cure at room temp for at least 24 hrs BEFORE applying any stencils. You COULD apply stencils after 1-2 hrs, but you’ll have MUCH better results by waiting a day.. Once the stencils are applied, try to focus the spray “in between” the stencils (wherever possible) so the paint doesn’t build up very much upon each stencil.. (which is also wasteful) Then.. I like to wait another 24 hrs to SLOWLY peel the stencils.. (always my favorite step- the reveal😉)
The key is to not rush it, take your time, enjoy the process, and have fun! Wait a day btwn the major steps, and you’ll be very pleased with the results... 😎👍🏼
@@p99shooter Thank you for the fast response. I hope my project turns out as nice as yours have.
Whats the durability? How long does it last before ut starts to rub off from normal use and handling? Ballpark
@aggsup Town - Hi, great question. When applied properly, it is VERY durable, and like a fine wine, it does truly get better with age...
With excessive holstering/ unholstering, you “might” get a slight bit of wear... but only where it makes contact inside the holster.
But even if it does, having a bit of wear looks kinda cool.. Plastic/ Kydex holsters are more forgiving, and have less physical contact points than say, leather or cowhide. I’m a borderline Fudd, so I used to run a lot of leather holsters, but Kydex is cheaper, and has zero “break-in” time..
@@p99shooter ok kool thanks for ur reply ill have to try this!
I only really plan to do this on my "trophy" arms thanks a bunch
I was just wondering what p.s.i. do you have the compressor set at.?
Hi, Dan.. 60 psi
p99shooter do you reduce the DuraCoat ? I guess you are using a larger compressor. The one I have only goes to around 50psi.
So confused. You coated that gun gold/black. Why’s it now blue and silver?
gib859 - Hi.. the base coat was Gold, the darker color is Durablue “Matte Blue-Black.” Sometimes it looks blue, sometimes it looks black.. depending on what type of light it’s in. We went with a Gold basecoat to hopefully compliment the Titanium Nitride (TiN) finish on the heavy barrel.
When the original finish is sandblasted before painting, it can take on a “silver” finish.. is that what you were referring to?
Yes, sir. The finished product in the light of day looks wildly different (no better, nor worse) than what was shown in artificial lighting. Great job. I can’t wait to Duracoat my 1911 next week 👍
gib859 - Cool👍🏼.. Though Duracoat does go on pretty thinly, if the slide-to-frame fit on your 1911 has tight tolerances, I highly recommend limiting the number of coats on the internal rails. (It can impede smooth cycling if there’s too many coats at that crucial point of contact). Also, if in addition to the frame, you’re painting the slide.. don’t forget to paint the round, rear tip of the extractor. (The part of the extractor that is visible to the shooter). It gives a more consistent look... good luck, have fun!
Like that dress lol 😂
Any clear coat used?
Indica Strain - No, not in this case. I find that where the tolerances are tight, such as where the slide meets the frame, it can impede smooth operation. The finish will improve with time, just like a fine wine 🍷
Yo Vlasik... what’s up buddy!! It’s Ryze!! Maestro told me about your channel! Great looking builds! Love the Riptile!! Hope all is Well!! -
-----WARPIGS------
Doing well! Thanks! Good to hear from you.. WP 4Life 👍🏼
Good job brother looks cool
James Gfid - Thanks!
Love it
duracoat , ughh . cerakote is better ! i am surprised someone hasnt said that yet . now with that out of the way . i have used duracoat since it came out . great stuff . and i have never had to redue any thing i have ever done . fallow the directions and it lasts great . duracoat gets its 'bad' rep from internet guru's who started in forums and youtube . saying ' its just paint ' and put it on like paint . but the same guru's who say and do that will fallow the directions to the letter when cerakoteing some thing . lol . they both have the same prep work before spraying . and no oven needed for duracoat . but it will help the drying time if heated and cured . great job ! how does the gold look over time ? i am thinking on doing a trigger and hammer on a 1911 in gold . od green on frame and slide and hk black on the safety , grip safety and slide release .