God bless you sir! Working on a 1981 Glastron with a 305 Chevy block. Never had a Chevy and had no idea the rod would slide down and thwart any attempt to put the fuel pump back in. No way to see in there without removing every damn seat...So thanks so much for making that job easy! I was about to set it on fire!
Hey David. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I had to show this because I didn't know about it either until I figured it out. Stay tuned for more things that I didn't know till I started rebuilding my truck.
Hey Triton. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 4 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Hi Barbra. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Most people dont know what that front bolt is for! Works good! Sometimes the rod can be difficult to hold up putting in pump or position on rod, but with bolt holding it no problem! As long as people take the long bolt back out and seal the short one!
Hey Rick. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 9 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Hey Cleason. It's a good age to be. The Bullshit is behind us. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Cool stuff Andy! Be sure to put some RTV sealer on the threads of that short bolt you put back in from holding the fuel pump push rod. You don't want to get any oil seepage coming out from there. There's a small amount of pressure in the crankcase. And if your piston rings are worn and the engine has a little more "blow-by" there's even more pressure in the crankcase.. either way use some thread sealant (not Loc-tite)
Hey Robert. Sorry that it took me so long to answer your comment. UA-cam doesn't always send the comments to my video page. It stores them in STUDIO, under comments. I try my hardest to answer all of the comments sent to my videos. It shows that I am listening and it makes for good relations and it gets guys coming back. So Thanks for that info you left and come back again.😊🍁👍
Hey Alberto. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I hope people enjoy all of my videos. They are made for entertainment and maybe someone will learn from them.
That's mighty big doghouse you got there. I also have a pump replacement video. Not all blocks have that extra bolt. I had to use a screwdriver to hold the pin up. I see you' just starting out on UA-cam. Keep the videos coming, people will watch. I subbed, hoping to see the Fargo when it's done.
Thanks for dropping by. I need a big Dog House because I have a lot of projects on the go and I like a lot of room. Thanks for subscribing. Drop by from time to time.
i like the way you so easily explain it...visually! Thank you. One question...Is that a 3/8" bolt?...& how long of one should i get before i get started?
Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. It is a 3/8" bolt and 2 " long. Now only finger tighten it. It is only holding up a Little rod. I will be back in the Dog House early November. Drop by and see what I am up to.👍🍁
If your Small Block Chevy doesn't have that extra bolt hole provided as most do not, try using a glob of grease to hold that pushrod up in place. If you pack it around the rod then slide the rod up it usually stays up for a few seconds. Have your pump and a bolt ready and don't waste time. Good luck.
Use one of the fuel pump mounting bolts to hold the pin up. Its the right size. Use the other bolt to hold the pump in, then remove the one holding the rod, and finish mounting the new pump.. This way you cant forget to remove the hold up bolt . Then just put in a shorter (1/2 " or so), bolt in the open hole. There should have been one there from the start, but sometimes its missing.
Cool trick for when the engine is in the vehicle .. the pump can be a pain sometimes! On the engine stand .. just roll the engine on side so that the gravity will be in your favor! I got lucky with mine and just greased the shaft and pushed it up and quickly stuck the pump in there before the shaft could slide back down! So ..... we have options. Thanks for sharing .. that drive in looked brutal!
Hey Tecnicsboys. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Just to confirm; you said gas goes into the pump via the threaded connector and comes out under pressure via the push-on tube ? I thought it would have been the other way around. But now I know the position of the push rod; I will reinstall this weekend.
@@AndysDogHouse minute 1.30 there’s a reference made Andy. I thought I installed it correctly but I started second guessing myself. Thanks for the video!
@@DoYourConquer Sorry, it was 2 years ago that I made its video so I forgot what I had said. The gas comes from your tank and goes into the pipe with no thread. Then it comes out of the fitting with the threaded fitting and goes to the Carburator.
The extra line on the 3 port pump is a return to the tank. Now imagine having to replace a pump in a G-van with an air pump bolted right where the magic bolt is. Oh and while still hot. Been there, done that!!! I just use a long skinny screwdriver and snake it in. Still a pain in the ass, but doable!!! Let me ask, is that engine rebuilt? Seemed to spin easy with the plugs in it. Hope it's good. Anyway, Keep Rocking it out!!!
The motor is not rebuilt, but there are 3 plugs missing the I took out and never replaced yet. I know the guy that had the motor before so I can trust him. Thanks for stopping by.
That sucks. I guess it is not a Chev motor. You will have to use a thin flat piece of steel to hold it up. But if it is on a motor stand, you can rotate the motor on it's side. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House.
@@AndysDogHouse I am not near my engine, but I believe I'm a fool. I was looking for a hole to put a bolt in not an actual bolt. Now when the crank is turned clockwise the pin travel up? What I gathered is it travels up but without something holding it up as it travels up it will fall down? Am I right? I as because I had been told about a hole months ago when I replaced my other sbc's fuel pump, but I could not find the said hole, so I simply took the plate off and shoved the fuel pump in all the while holding the pressure from the rod to start the bolts.
Has anyone had a mechanical fuel pump pushrod bent causing fuel delivery issues? 1985 GM 350 engine is what I have. Haven’t inspected the pushrod. Heard tapping sounds coming from the fuel pump area awhile back.
I have never heard of the push rod bending. I would think it is impossible to bend it. Did you check at the front of the engine to make sure the bolt that you sure to hold the pushrod up when installing the pump is backed off? I can make you a video of what I am talking about if you want.
Andy's Dog House I appreciate your reply. No video needed, but thanks. I am certain my fuel pump went in with the pushrod up above the pump arm. I don’t think my pushrod is bent. I heard sound before I replaced the pump. No sounds now, but the engine is still not running right. Sounds like it’s fuel starved. I think my problem is going to turn out to be a 15’ section of 35 year old, collapsed, non-ethanol compliant, rubber fuel line where I know it has seen 10% ethanol gas before, by mistake. This is a boat application engine. Testing toMorris with a new fuel hose and a temporary fuel tank with marine gas, 4 feet away from the engine.
Correct. That pushrod wonn't bend, if it did it would jam and stay jammed in the bore and not move. It sounds like it's moving obviously since you hear tapping noises. The only possible explanation is a bad fuel pump. The spring tension is probably lost due to internal failure of the pump causing play between the pushrod and camshaft. What happens is the fuel pump lever isn't spring loaded fully enough to keep the pushrod firmly against the eccentric on the camshaft. So the pushrod from gravity slides toward the fuel pump lever and away from the cam lobe.. and every time the cam lobe rotates it hits the pushrod causing the noise. Had it been properly spring loaded and under tension from the fuel pump lever, against the pushrod and against the camshaft lobe, as designed, there would be no noise. The only way you can have any noise in that assembly is from "play". The play can only be from the spring loaded fuel pump lever not holding tension. Whether it's possible a restricted suction line from pump to the fuel tank could cause the diaphragm in the fuel pump to not fully expand to the lever is beyond me. But the problem lies in the pump. Try removing the rubber suction hose from the pump and putting a temporary rubber hose to a gas can to overcome a possible plugged line to the tank. If the noise goes away then the you'll have to replace the suction line back to the tank. If the noise continues the the fuel pump is internally bad and needs replaced. That's usually the case.
Robert S Wow! I really appreciate the time you took to explain it so well. You should know that I ended up doing what you recommended here. That was maybe a week ago. The problem did go away when I ran a temporary suction hose to a gas can. We ended up replacing the fuel line and found that it had collapsed internally about three feet away from the engine. I replaced the fuel pump, just because. Now the engine runs great!! Many thanks once again. Your post can help the next guy and the ones after that!
If you got rid of the noise and now you think it's not running right due to a lack of fuel and restricted rubber fuel line imploded from the ethanol swelling it up, do a fuel volume test. Take the fuel supply line off the carburetor and slip a rubber hose over it and put the other end into a clean glass jar or suitable catch container. Run or crank the engine and you should observe a good amount of gas squirt into the jar right away. I don't know the factory specs from the service manual but maybe an once or so every second or two.. if you fill half a pickle jar in 5-10 seconds you have a good fuel supply. Also check the the fuel to make sure it's clean and not contaminated with rust. If it is you'll need to remove the fuel tank and replace it along with the fuel filter up in the carburetor. Hope this helps.
Hey Terinator. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 4 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
God bless you sir! Working on a 1981 Glastron with a 305 Chevy block. Never had a Chevy and had no idea the rod would slide down and thwart any attempt to put the fuel pump back in. No way to see in there without removing every damn seat...So thanks so much for making that job easy! I was about to set it on fire!
Hey David. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I had to show this because I didn't know about it either until I figured it out. Stay tuned for more things that I didn't know till I started rebuilding my truck.
Tricks of the trade...👍 Thank you for the lesson Sir. I learned something new today, and very useful.
Hey Triton. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 4 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
@@AndysDogHouse ...👍
Thank you for this video, very clear instruction on how to deal with the push rod which I was looking for.
Hey What. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I am glad that I could help. Drop by again. You never know what we are doing next.
Andy, I love your shop music. Patsy Cline was an American treasure! Good presentation on installing the SBC furl pump :)
Hi Barbra. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Most people dont know what that front bolt is for! Works good! Sometimes the rod can be difficult to hold up putting in pump or position on rod, but with bolt holding it no problem! As long as people take the long bolt back out and seal the short one!
Hey Rick. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 9 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
The beginning of your video reminded me why I moved to Texas 10 years ago. And I’m pretty close to your age
Hey Cleason. It's a good age to be. The Bullshit is behind us.
Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Cool stuff Andy! Be sure to put some RTV sealer on the threads of that short bolt you put back in from holding the fuel pump push rod. You don't want to get any oil seepage coming out from there. There's a small amount of pressure in the crankcase. And if your piston rings are worn and the engine has a little more "blow-by" there's even more pressure in the crankcase.. either way use some thread sealant (not Loc-tite)
Hey Robert. Sorry that it took me so long to answer your comment. UA-cam doesn't always send the comments to my video page. It stores them in STUDIO, under comments. I try my hardest to answer all of the comments sent to my videos. It shows that I am listening and it makes for good relations and it gets guys coming back. So Thanks for that info you left and come back again.😊🍁👍
Very well explained video
Hey Richard. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I am glad that it helped.
Great video
Hey Alberto. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I hope people enjoy all of my videos. They are made for entertainment and maybe someone will learn from them.
thanks very informative!
hey Oscar. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I am new at this restoration game and if I can show someone something, then all is good.
Thank you for you easily explain it
Thanks for stropped by the Dog House. Please come back🍁👍👍🍻
Very helpfull making sure i had it right thanks ...great video
Hey Samuel Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I'm glad that I could help. Don't forget to Subscribe and follow along on this build.
Put the engine to top dead center and the rod will be at it’s highest point .
That's mighty big doghouse you got there. I also have a pump replacement video. Not all blocks have that extra bolt. I had to use a screwdriver to hold the pin up. I see you' just starting out on UA-cam. Keep the videos coming, people will watch. I subbed, hoping to see the Fargo when it's done.
Thanks for dropping by. I need a big Dog House because I have a lot of projects on the go and I like a lot of room. Thanks for subscribing. Drop by from time to time.
i like the way you so easily explain it...visually! Thank you. One question...Is that a 3/8" bolt?...& how long of one should i get before i get started?
Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. It is a 3/8" bolt and 2 " long. Now only finger tighten it. It is only holding up a Little rod. I will be back in the Dog House early November. Drop by and see what I am up to.👍🍁
If your Small Block Chevy doesn't have that extra bolt hole provided as most do not, try using a glob of grease to hold that pushrod up in place. If you pack it around the rod then slide the rod up it usually stays up for a few seconds. Have your pump and a bolt ready and don't waste time. Good luck.
Use one of the fuel pump mounting bolts to hold the pin up. Its the right size. Use the other bolt to hold the pump in, then remove the one holding the rod, and finish mounting the new pump.. This way you cant forget to remove the hold up bolt . Then just put in a shorter (1/2 " or so), bolt in the open hole. There should have been one there from the start, but sometimes its missing.
Cool trick for when the engine is in the vehicle .. the pump can be a pain sometimes! On the engine stand .. just roll the engine on side so that the gravity will be in your favor! I got lucky with mine and just greased the shaft and pushed it up and quickly stuck the pump in there before the shaft could slide back down! So ..... we have options. Thanks for sharing .. that drive in looked brutal!
Thanks for dropping by Bob. I look forward to your advise. I have a lot of people dropping by, but very few Leave a comment.
Genius
Hey Miguelvaldez. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. I'm glad that you liked it.
Should do a separate video for your driving around footage.
Does this work with an 86 GMC Sierra?
Hey Rafael. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. This works on all V8 Chevy engines.
Man, I sure hope those spark plugs weren't new when they got painted...
No. They were old plugs. They all got replaced. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House.
Thanks good trik
Hey Tecnicsboys. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 3 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘
Just to confirm; you said gas goes into the pump via the threaded connector and comes out under pressure via the push-on tube ? I thought it would have been the other way around. But now I know the position of the push rod; I will reinstall this weekend.
Hey Robert. I don't recall saying anything about how the pump works. I do believe I just explained the position of the pushrod.
@@AndysDogHouse minute 1.30 there’s a reference made Andy. I thought I installed it correctly but I started second guessing myself. Thanks for the video!
@@DoYourConquer Sorry, it was 2 years ago that I made its video so I forgot what I had said. The gas comes from your tank and goes into the pipe with no thread. Then it comes out of the fitting with the threaded fitting and goes to the Carburator.
Thanks!!
The extra line on the 3 port pump is a return to the tank. Now imagine having to replace a pump in a G-van with an air pump bolted right where the magic bolt is. Oh and while still hot. Been there, done that!!! I just use a long skinny screwdriver and snake it in. Still a pain in the ass, but doable!!! Let me ask, is that engine rebuilt? Seemed to spin easy with the plugs in it. Hope it's good. Anyway, Keep Rocking it out!!!
The motor is not rebuilt, but there are 3 plugs missing the I took out and never replaced yet. I know the guy that had the motor before so I can trust him. Thanks for stopping by.
@@AndysDogHouse A pleasure and thanks for having me over!!!
In my sbc I can't put a bolt in?
That sucks. I guess it is not a Chev motor. You will have to use a thin flat piece of steel to hold it up. But if it is on a motor stand, you can rotate the motor on it's side. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House.
@@AndysDogHouse I am not near my engine, but I believe I'm a fool. I was looking for a hole to put a bolt in not an actual bolt. Now when the crank is turned clockwise the pin travel up? What I gathered is it travels up but without something holding it up as it travels up it will fall down? Am I right? I as because I had been told about a hole months ago when I replaced my other sbc's fuel pump, but I could not find the said hole, so I simply took the plate off and shoved the fuel pump in all the while holding the pressure from the rod to start the bolts.
nice سلام
I don't know what you said, but thanks for dropping by the Dog House.
Has anyone had a mechanical fuel pump pushrod bent causing fuel delivery issues? 1985 GM 350 engine is what I have. Haven’t inspected the pushrod. Heard tapping sounds coming from the fuel pump area awhile back.
I have never heard of the push rod bending. I would think it is impossible to bend it. Did you check at the front of the engine to make sure the bolt that you sure to hold the pushrod up when installing the pump is backed off? I can make you a video of what I am talking about if you want.
Andy's Dog House I appreciate your reply. No video needed, but thanks. I am certain my fuel pump went in with the pushrod up above the pump arm. I don’t think my pushrod is bent. I heard sound before I replaced the pump. No sounds now, but the engine is still not running right. Sounds like it’s fuel starved. I think my problem is going to turn out to be a 15’ section of 35 year old, collapsed, non-ethanol compliant, rubber fuel line where I know it has seen 10% ethanol gas before, by mistake. This is a boat application engine. Testing toMorris with a new fuel hose and a temporary fuel tank with marine gas, 4 feet away from the engine.
Correct. That pushrod wonn't bend, if it did it would jam and stay jammed in the bore and not move. It sounds like it's moving obviously since you hear tapping noises. The only possible explanation is a bad fuel pump. The spring tension is probably lost due to internal failure of the pump causing play between the pushrod and camshaft. What happens is the fuel pump lever isn't spring loaded fully enough to keep the pushrod firmly against the eccentric on the camshaft. So the pushrod from gravity slides toward the fuel pump lever and away from the cam lobe.. and every time the cam lobe rotates it hits the pushrod causing the noise. Had it been properly spring loaded and under tension from the fuel pump lever, against the pushrod and against the camshaft lobe, as designed, there would be no noise. The only way you can have any noise in that assembly is from "play". The play can only be from the spring loaded fuel pump lever not holding tension. Whether it's possible a restricted suction line from pump to the fuel tank could cause the diaphragm in the fuel pump to not fully expand to the lever is beyond me. But the problem lies in the pump. Try removing the rubber suction hose from the pump and putting a temporary rubber hose to a gas can to overcome a possible plugged line to the tank. If the noise goes away then the you'll have to replace the suction line back to the tank. If the noise continues the the fuel pump is internally bad and needs replaced. That's usually the case.
Robert S Wow! I really appreciate the time you took to explain it so well. You should know that I ended up doing what you recommended here. That was maybe a week ago. The problem did go away when I ran a temporary suction hose to a gas can. We ended up replacing the fuel line and found that it had collapsed internally about three feet away from the engine. I replaced the fuel pump, just because. Now the engine runs great!! Many thanks once again. Your post can help the next guy and the ones after that!
If you got rid of the noise and now you think it's not running right due to a lack of fuel and restricted rubber fuel line imploded from the ethanol swelling it up, do a fuel volume test. Take the fuel supply line off the carburetor and slip a rubber hose over it and put the other end into a clean glass jar or suitable catch container. Run or crank the engine and you should observe a good amount of gas squirt into the jar right away. I don't know the factory specs from the service manual but maybe an once or so every second or two.. if you fill half a pickle jar in 5-10 seconds you have a good fuel supply. Also check the the fuel to make sure it's clean and not contaminated with rust. If it is you'll need to remove the fuel tank and replace it along with the fuel filter up in the carburetor. Hope this helps.
307? Ain’t it 305
Hey Terinator. Thanks for dropping by the Dog House. Sorry, I just found this comment from 4 months ago. Sometimes UA-cam doesn't send the comments to my videos. They are found in The STUDIO section of my channel under comments. I check there every now and again. I do my very best to answer ALL comments that are left by my Subscribers. It make for good relationship and comebacks.👍🤘