i changed mine to hollowtech 2 and it seems like a downgrade because pedaling now is stiffer/harder. my bike bb shell is 73mm so i put only one spacer on the driveside everything was also well lube torque according to manufacturers guide deore fc m5100 set, chain is kmc 11s
I understand what you say. I replaced a Shimano sealed BB (UN-55) with a newer one (UN-300). Both are square taper but the new one doesn't spin freely like the old one did. The thing is the older style have cup and cope bearings whereas the newer ones (inboard UN-300 and outboard Hollowtech-II) have sealed cartridge bearings which aren't as smooth as the cup and cone. However, Hollowtech bearings will allow for much less flexing of the spindle since they sit right next to the crank. Stiffer = more efficient power transfer. I do prefer the buttery smooth spin of the cup and cone so I ride the older style BB on my commuter. Flex = springy comfort (but also some chain rub when standing). Lastly, I will always choose cup and cone bearings for wheel axles over sealed cartridge. The cup and cone system can withstand axial forces, not just radial ones.
The going-in premise of this video and many similar ones is that changing out an angular contact (aka cup and cone) bearing system for a radial contact (commonly called "sealed") bearing system is an upgrade. I disagree on that point. The radial bearing / hollow spindle system is most likely lighter, as is the case here, and supposedly stiffer, but stiffness is difficult to quantify in any meaningful way for a BB application. So saving a couple hundred grams is all you get; it is not "better" in any other way. Plus, it will require a constant diet of new bearings over its life. Give me an old-fashioned cup and cone square taper BB system every time. Regular adjustment and a clean out and grease replacement every 2000 miles or so makes a cup and cone system last almost indefinitely.
I've seen several of these videos changing out the bottom bracket and wondered what the basis for doing this task was. I replaced my cup and cone with a cartridge type and expect to get many more years of service on my 1991 steel bike. It seems like a lot of the "new" bicycle stuff isn't always an improvement. I guess manufacturers made the change due to bikes being carbon fiber frames.
@@daniellarson3068 Yes, so they needed to employ press-fit bearings. But they don't get the tolerances right for press fit, and lots of problems ensue. So now many are returning to threaded shells. Go figure.
For that bike with its old school pedals on that steel frame, it can be as more serviceable. For others, like road bike enthusiasts the answer is more likely no.
i m changing my square bb to a hollowtech because the chain is rubbing against my derailleur when i press hard on the pedals (3 plates crankset), something is twisting, i presume it is about the crankset and the bb ... so i hope to gain some rigidity .. but as you don't have any front derailleur , not sure you really feel a difference (?)
Your title says Hollowtech II, but the crankset you used was a GXP which is 24/22mm, that is meant for SRAM dub BB. Other than that, the process is pretty good, and relaxing to watch. Good instruction on how to replace/upgrade to a English BB.
Hi, is it ok not to install the plastic sleeve in the center of a hollowtech BB? It is getting in the way of my dropper post internal cable so I am thinking not to install it. Thanks in advance.
I've got an old italian MTB with a 70mm ITA bottom bracket shell. I know there are 70mm Hollowtech BBs. My question is: would a single chainring crankset spindle even fit? Thanks!
On a 68mm shell you said 3 spacer needed. How much spacer goes on the drive side and how much goes on non drive side. And how do you know what’s side need spacer .
If your bottom bracket shell is 68mm, you need to put 2 spacers on the drive side and 1 spacer on the non drive side. The only exception is if you are putting in a mounted chain guide or derailleur, then you would only need to put 1 spacer on the drive side.
@@DanyoSports Nice wanna do a 1x10 on my 135 rear frame Cannondale 29r mtb bike.Knowing the chainline will be off by easy 5mm still iffy about doing the purchase.
@@radiocontrolled9181, okay, thanks for that. I'm gonna rip out my perfectly good working UN-55 and discard my cranks and spend a couple of hundred bucks tomorrow ;-)
@@MrJx4000 LOOLL You're welcome mate. You won't regret it. I did it and I'm soooooo much faster now with 165g lighter the bike just goes and goes especially uphill it's a breeze! It's money well spent Good luck ✌️👍
Decent installation details. But you did not answer the question, is it worth it?
Good video but should likely be called how to change not "is it worth it"
were old school and correct
Drop the unnecessary and overly loud music.
Very annoying music.
Yeah music is fine if it's lower volume and actual good music. This is just stressful and annoying
I still believe in good square taper Shimano BB UN55, the undisputed King of Old School!
Putting a new Shimano BB-UN55 right now into my Trek 5200 road bike. Looking forward to it!
I thought it was out of production. Is that not true?
@@WildBikerBill Yes - But they sell others that will fit.
I have it on my Kelly's TNT 70 29 "MTB and I agree 💯💯!!! 11 years riding offroad and pavement. No problems whatsoever!!
@@WildBikerBillI can get it in Poland no problem 😊
I'm sure you had a lot of wonderful memories with this bike.. ❤️
Nice video, what drivetrain you have installed?
i changed mine to hollowtech 2 and it seems like a downgrade because pedaling now is stiffer/harder.
my bike bb shell is 73mm so i put only one spacer on the driveside
everything was also well lube
torque according to manufacturers guide
deore fc m5100 set, chain is kmc 11s
I understand what you say. I replaced a Shimano sealed BB (UN-55) with a newer one (UN-300). Both are square taper but the new one doesn't spin freely like the old one did. The thing is the older style have cup and cope bearings whereas the newer ones (inboard UN-300 and outboard Hollowtech-II) have sealed cartridge bearings which aren't as smooth as the cup and cone. However, Hollowtech bearings will allow for much less flexing of the spindle since they sit right next to the crank. Stiffer = more efficient power transfer.
I do prefer the buttery smooth spin of the cup and cone so I ride the older style BB on my commuter. Flex = springy comfort (but also some chain rub when standing).
Lastly, I will always choose cup and cone bearings for wheel axles over sealed cartridge. The cup and cone system can withstand axial forces, not just radial ones.
did u overtighten the cap nut on the non-drive side?
The going-in premise of this video and many similar ones is that changing out an angular contact (aka cup and cone) bearing system for a radial contact (commonly called "sealed") bearing system is an upgrade. I disagree on that point. The radial bearing / hollow spindle system is most likely lighter, as is the case here, and supposedly stiffer, but stiffness is difficult to quantify in any meaningful way for a BB application. So saving a couple hundred grams is all you get; it is not "better" in any other way. Plus, it will require a constant diet of new bearings over its life. Give me an old-fashioned cup and cone square taper BB system every time. Regular adjustment and a clean out and grease replacement every 2000 miles or so makes a cup and cone system last almost indefinitely.
all vintage bike last forever!! i have a bunch..same as the birthday ..40 years later
I've seen several of these videos changing out the bottom bracket and wondered what the basis for doing this task was. I replaced my cup and cone with a cartridge type and expect to get many more years of service on my 1991 steel bike. It seems like a lot of the "new" bicycle stuff isn't always an improvement. I guess manufacturers made the change due to bikes being carbon fiber frames.
@@daniellarson3068 Yes, so they needed to employ press-fit bearings. But they don't get the tolerances right for press fit, and lots of problems ensue. So now many are returning to threaded shells. Go figure.
@@rangersmith4652 Thanks - I guess this is another reason to hang on to my 1991 steel bike a few years longer.
Great video, with lots of details for disassembly and installation. Thanks for sharing.
A beautiful, good and detailed video but you did not answer the important question, is it really worth making the upgrade or is it just another trend?
Yes, it’s worth it.
@Dal J it's a cheap way to drop weight from the bike.
@@DanyoSports And why?
For that bike with its old school pedals on that steel frame, it can be as more serviceable. For others, like road bike enthusiasts the answer is more likely no.
i m changing my square bb to a hollowtech because the chain is rubbing against my derailleur when i press hard on the pedals (3 plates crankset), something is twisting, i presume it is about the crankset and the bb ... so i hope to gain some rigidity .. but as you don't have any front derailleur , not sure you really feel a difference (?)
Your title says Hollowtech II, but the crankset you used was a GXP which is 24/22mm, that is meant for SRAM dub BB. Other than that, the process is pretty good, and relaxing to watch. Good instruction on how to replace/upgrade to a English BB.
I m using it for a year already with MT210 Alivio
Hi, is it ok not to install the plastic sleeve in the center of a hollowtech BB? It is getting in the way of my dropper post internal cable so I am thinking not to install it. Thanks in advance.
keep sharing good quality videos! just tone down the music volume a bit
You did not face the BB shell. Those lumps of paint will mess up the bearing evenness. You will have spin and bearing life problems.
Thanks for the advice.
@@DanyoSports, refer to the Great Hambini to see how it's done ;-)
If not using a Chain guide or FD for a 68mm bb shell, should I only put 1 bb spacer on the right and 2 on the left instead?
That’s correct, 1 spacer on the non-drive side and 2 spacers on the drive side.
@@DanyoSports I really appreciate this! Been searching for so long 🤣
hi , how do we know how many washers to put on the left and right side?
Saan ka nkabili ng truvativ
I've got an old italian MTB with a 70mm ITA bottom bracket shell. I know there are 70mm Hollowtech BBs. My question is: would a single chainring crankset spindle even fit?
Thanks!
Yes, as long as you put in the right bottom bracket.
Great videos man!!
On a 68mm shell you said 3 spacer needed. How much spacer goes on the drive side and how much goes on non drive side. And how do you know what’s side need spacer .
If your bottom bracket shell is 68mm, you need to put 2 spacers on the drive side and 1 spacer on the non drive side.
The only exception is if you are putting in a mounted chain guide or derailleur, then you would only need to put 1 spacer on the drive side.
@@DanyoSports thank you very much .
Nice vid. Thanks for sharing.
Nice video,did you have issues with chainline at all.
Thanks, no, everything works perfertly.
@@DanyoSports Nice wanna do a 1x10 on my 135 rear frame Cannondale 29r mtb bike.Knowing the chainline will be off by easy 5mm still iffy about doing the purchase.
Ok, make sure you put the right amount of spacers on the bottom bracket.
So Isit? Worth? 😅
awesome video. keep it up!
Thanks🙂
167 grams improvement 😂
How much lighter your bike weighs after this change?
906g less 741g = 165g
@@radiocontrolled9181, That much???
@@MrJx4000 Yep, definitely a game changer 😂
@@radiocontrolled9181, okay, thanks for that. I'm gonna rip out my perfectly good working UN-55 and discard my cranks and spend a couple of hundred bucks tomorrow ;-)
@@MrJx4000 LOOLL You're welcome mate. You won't regret it. I did it and I'm soooooo much faster now with 165g lighter the bike just goes and goes especially uphill it's a breeze! It's money well spent Good luck ✌️👍
Hilariously I'm switching the other way , ebike kit needs square taper for pedal assist sensor, I have throttle but prefer pedal assist 😅 🇬🇧
Did you use a spacer on the non drive side?
No, you only need it if the bottom bracket shell is 68mm.
interesting the axel is connected to the non drive side arm instead of the ds crank arm
Brand headset and size ?
The size of the headset is 1 1/8” and it’s the original Aheadset that comes with the bike.
bro your using your spanner backwards your gonna break it and round off your bolts
It’s 2021, and people are still producing useful videos with dumb ass loud music! Why remains a reasonable question?
Or…you could simply turn the volume down on whatever device you’re using. Do you also complain about highly compressed, loud vocals on Radio and TV?
I like the music. Adjust the volume however you like it.
your correct!!...at least its not that stupid hand clappy , ukelale i feel happy shit
Size crank spindle
The spindle size is 137.
Nice vid
removing that chain was unnecessary...
No one wants to hear loud rave music over a video about bottom brackets
My apologies.