Brilliant video. This answers all of my questions! My mechanic was reticent to put a new alternator in because there was no indication that anything was wrong with it. I’m going to give him this video. This is really great.
So, I have a 2009 Nissan Murano and it seems to have completely gone out on me. It started with some type of mini explosion, on the side of the alternator, while I was driving on the highway. Pulled over and couldn't really tell what happened, because it was at night. Got it towed to a shop and they felt it was the alternator. Got the alternator replaced, but then the voltage wasn't jumping up and down and the mechanic thought it might be the computer. Got an ECM and it seemed to be working, but then came the power fluctuation. Still not sure what the root cause was, but we found out that the alternator was not getting a signal to charge the battery unless we revved the engine up between 2700 and 300 RPMs. This caused the alternator to engage, BUT the lights would start pulsing. So this was the workaround for about a week. I let another mechanic check it out to try and do a diagnostic scan, but he never got consistent readings. One moment it would read pass on the alternator, and the next time it would be a fail. But a charge signal still wasn't getting to the alternator. So he suggested it could either be the BCM or the voltage regulator in the alternator. Long story short, we replaced the BCM and the alternator (again). Nothing changed. Same issue. After another day of driving it, it stopped charging completely. Now I'm wondering if it's an electrical issue and if that's been the problem the whole time. I just wanted to know your thoughts. I've already spent enough money trying to get it fixed, but the vehicle was working perfectly fine until this happened. But seeing as all the major parts were changed, I'm trying to see the best way to explore if it's an electrical issue. The car runs great if it's being jumped, but as soon as the cables come off, it's dead. No type of charging going on from the alternator at all now.
@MusicManDre I also have a 2009 Nissan Murano, getting intermittent Brake and Charging lights after driving about 10 miles or the car idles for 30 minutes. Already replaced battery, issue came back in exactly 3 weeks. My car has always started and never stalled. Were you able to resolve the issue?
@@milliejackson8374 Unfortunately, I never found out what the actual issue is. However, after all the things we checked and replaced, I suspect it may be an electrical issue dealing with the wiring harness. The only problem is, you have to basically take everything apart to replace that and many mechanics don't really want to do the job. I already sunk about $2k into trying to get the vehicle fixed and putting more money towards getting a mechanic to the wiring harness just didn't seem worth it. I still have the Murano, but it's just sitting in the yard now. It was literally working fine with no issues before this happened. I spoke with a mechanic who may be interested in taking it on as a side job this year, but if not, I may just sell it for parts. The body is in good condition and it's got lots of perfectly fine parts. But it's just sitting in the yard now.
I have just recently purchased a 2009 murano with 208k and looks like my vehicle is doin the exact same thing.. it will intermittently charge and then like when it gets hot it won't. So I'm gonna take a chance and replace the alternator and I will come back and let ya kno if this has solved my issues. Thank you for the very informative video you posted. It really helped me out to let me kno which way to go on this issue... update coming soon.
Does it have to have at least 6 or does it need 6? Mine has 10 and is charging fine, but if I let it sit over night it won’t charge unless I disconnect and reconnect both battery cables
If you are getting a constant signal wave shouldn’t you be able to see it on a multi meter ? I have a customer with this same issue I don’t have a scan tool like this. To see this program I do have a scope tho
Scan Data was viewed with the scan tool. In order to get the waveforms on the scope though, we had to access the wiring at the alternator. Definitely not a nice spot!
Could this problem also be caused by an intermittent bad solder connection at the charge fault indicator LED current bypass resistor on the dash cluster board?
I'm having the exact same issue in my 2011 Z51. It now, as of this past December, has a brand new alternator (not rebuilt), new battery, new ground cable with IPDM, new positive terminal and fuses, and it still does this. It'll charge fine for anywhere from 3 to 10 minutes, then stop. Cleared code p1551 after running with the IPDM unplugged to see if it would self-resolve. It didn't, but now my charge light won't come on when it drops below 11.7 volts. I keep a group 24 AGM battery for jump starting if it quits, that's how bad it's gotten.
I replaced the alternator twice, but I just noticed that I didn't have the battery light at the dashboard even when is not charging, on the blue line I got no voltage at all. So I trace the line to the pin 36 at the ipdm and nothing comes out of it.... bad ipdm?
Hmmm. Strange that the light wouldn't come on. The IPDM may put out a square wave pattern rather than a steady 5v, so it wouldn't be picked up by a DVOM, but rather a scope would be required to see it. If a scope shows 0v, then yes, the diagnosis would lead you that direction, provided wiring, etc. is ok. Is the IPDM talking to the ECM? Good Luck!
I have a question. I put in new alternator in my 05 Nissan Murano. I had to get a new pig tail cause the old one broke and I had to run some wires. What does it mean if the fuse link to my battery keeps blowing.
Bit did you fix it and how?
Brilliant video. This answers all of my questions! My mechanic was reticent to put a new alternator in because there was no indication that anything was wrong with it. I’m going to give him this video. This is really great.
So, I have a 2009 Nissan Murano and it seems to have completely gone out on me. It started with some type of mini explosion, on the side of the alternator, while I was driving on the highway. Pulled over and couldn't really tell what happened, because it was at night. Got it towed to a shop and they felt it was the alternator. Got the alternator replaced, but then the voltage wasn't jumping up and down and the mechanic thought it might be the computer. Got an ECM and it seemed to be working, but then came the power fluctuation. Still not sure what the root cause was, but we found out that the alternator was not getting a signal to charge the battery unless we revved the engine up between 2700 and 300 RPMs. This caused the alternator to engage, BUT the lights would start pulsing. So this was the workaround for about a week. I let another mechanic check it out to try and do a diagnostic scan, but he never got consistent readings. One moment it would read pass on the alternator, and the next time it would be a fail. But a charge signal still wasn't getting to the alternator. So he suggested it could either be the BCM or the voltage regulator in the alternator. Long story short, we replaced the BCM and the alternator (again). Nothing changed. Same issue. After another day of driving it, it stopped charging completely. Now I'm wondering if it's an electrical issue and if that's been the problem the whole time. I just wanted to know your thoughts. I've already spent enough money trying to get it fixed, but the vehicle was working perfectly fine until this happened. But seeing as all the major parts were changed, I'm trying to see the best way to explore if it's an electrical issue. The car runs great if it's being jumped, but as soon as the cables come off, it's dead. No type of charging going on from the alternator at all now.
@MusicManDre I also have a 2009 Nissan Murano, getting intermittent Brake and Charging lights after driving about 10 miles or the car idles for 30 minutes. Already replaced battery, issue came back in exactly 3 weeks. My car has always started and never stalled. Were you able to resolve the issue?
@@milliejackson8374 Unfortunately, I never found out what the actual issue is. However, after all the things we checked and replaced, I suspect it may be an electrical issue dealing with the wiring harness. The only problem is, you have to basically take everything apart to replace that and many mechanics don't really want to do the job. I already sunk about $2k into trying to get the vehicle fixed and putting more money towards getting a mechanic to the wiring harness just didn't seem worth it. I still have the Murano, but it's just sitting in the yard now. It was literally working fine with no issues before this happened. I spoke with a mechanic who may be interested in taking it on as a side job this year, but if not, I may just sell it for parts. The body is in good condition and it's got lots of perfectly fine parts. But it's just sitting in the yard now.
great job keep these gems coming
I have just recently purchased a 2009 murano with 208k and looks like my vehicle is doin the exact same thing.. it will intermittently charge and then like when it gets hot it won't. So I'm gonna take a chance and replace the alternator and I will come back and let ya kno if this has solved my issues. Thank you for the very informative video you posted. It really helped me out to let me kno which way to go on this issue... update coming soon.
Glad it helped.
Did it work?
@@jesusgonzalezpichardo6033seems like all over the internet, no one ever comes back and answers
@thomaskimparker809 any update? I have same issues.
Does it have to have at least 6 or does it need 6? Mine has 10 and is charging fine, but if I let it sit over night it won’t charge unless I disconnect and reconnect both battery cables
So what happens then when you have 0.0 volts coming out of the IDPM? Then 0.0v at the Alternator?
If you are getting a constant signal wave shouldn’t you be able to see it on a multi meter ? I have a customer with this same issue I don’t have a scan tool like this. To see this program I do have a scope tho
How did you scan the alternator while running?? At the obd port?? The alternator is such a pain to get to.
Scan Data was viewed with the scan tool. In order to get the waveforms on the scope though, we had to access the wiring at the alternator. Definitely not a nice spot!
Could this problem also be caused by an intermittent bad solder connection at the charge fault indicator LED current bypass resistor on the dash cluster board?
Niece-ann
I'm having the exact same issue in my 2011 Z51. It now, as of this past December, has a brand new alternator (not rebuilt), new battery, new ground cable with IPDM, new positive terminal and fuses, and it still does this. It'll charge fine for anywhere from 3 to 10 minutes, then stop. Cleared code p1551 after running with the IPDM unplugged to see if it would self-resolve. It didn't, but now my charge light won't come on when it drops below 11.7 volts.
I keep a group 24 AGM battery for jump starting if it quits, that's how bad it's gotten.
I replaced the alternator twice, but I just noticed that I didn't have the battery light at the dashboard even when is not charging, on the blue line I got no voltage at all.
So I trace the line to the pin 36 at the ipdm and nothing comes out of it.... bad ipdm?
Hmmm. Strange that the light wouldn't come on. The IPDM may put out a square wave pattern rather than a steady 5v, so it wouldn't be picked up by a DVOM, but rather a scope would be required to see it. If a scope shows 0v, then yes, the diagnosis would lead you that direction, provided wiring, etc. is ok. Is the IPDM talking to the ECM? Good Luck!
@@autoaidetechnicalservices3981 in your video the was getting a constant 5v wouldn’t that show up on dmm .
I have a question. I put in new alternator in my 05 Nissan Murano. I had to get a new pig tail cause the old one broke and I had to run some wires. What does it mean if the fuse link to my battery keeps blowing.
You might have a short in the wire. ( hot wire is grounding out sumwhere). Just my opinion tho might be deeper in the (IPDM)
WW