I added it to the episode notes but wanted to specifically call it out in the comments too... On ported heads, likely the intake rocker arm bolt hole becomes a through hole into the intake runner. In which case, be sure to use some thread sealer on that rock arm bolt so that oil doesn't seep past. (not shown in video - I went back and added it). On stock heads it is a blind hole (doesn't go all the way through), so the thread sealer isn't mentioned in typical repair instructions.
I'M SORRY...WHAT!!! This is normal, and not a screw up on their part?? Your freshly TSP PRC heads had this "charictaristic" ?? How many could possibly cut through? Isn't this a restriction, as well a leak situation? What kind of thread sealer??
No worries man. Every expert was a beginner at some point. I still learn new things every day. That's what makes the YT channels so great. It's easy to share info. Keep at it!
Dude knows his stuff. I like how as soon as the torque wrench clicks he stops, as oppesed to some people who make it click 2 or 3 times which is just unnecessary. Great videos and nice camera angles!!
Thanks for the kind words. Very glad the video was helpful. I agree, continuing to pull on the torque wrench after it clicks isn't needed and you risk over-torqueing a bolt. You really have to get to know your specific torque wrench. With mine, a smooth steady pull is most accurate. If I pull really slowly or really quickly, it will give a false reading.
Awesome video Bro. Hey but question you suppose to use the Dynamometric key? To adjust the bolts too? I have to torque the head bolts can l just adjust them with the torque wrench only?
I bought complete heads from PRC and they came already set up with the valve springs (and valve lash). As for lifter preload, this is determined by the push rod length. I have a video specifically on that topic, so check it out when you get a chance. Good luck on your project!
Excellent video. Quick question, I may have not caught it however, did you "lube" the fastener holes for the rocker arm retainer bolts? and what about the main rocker mounting assembly bolts to the head?. Doing my first swap, and uber cautious, yours and other videos are a HUGE HELP. Thanks!
I have some video of both removing and installing the torque tube and trans/diff. Just need to edit several hours of video down to the key bits to make it more watchable. It's a beast of a job but I am living proof it can be done in your garage, on jack stands, completely by yourself.
You can typically look up the torque sequence online, or if you have a copy of the FSM, or access to repair guides like Alldata/Motologic/Mitchell, etc. There are also some good LS engine building books available with detailed information. I bought this book some years ago: amzn.to/4eapll1
You should be using assembly lube on the both ends of the push rods. And you are not supposed to put oil on bolts that don’t call for it you change the torque rating when you oil the threads
Sorry for the confusion as I didn't specify in the video. Oil was being applied to the trunnion bushing, not down the bolt hole. You are correct, lubricating threads reduces the torque required to achieve the same clamping force.
Im needing help with removing and replacing my heads on a GM 6.0. How do I drain the block. I took off the lower radiator hose but only fluid came out was from the radiator. I need to get the fluid out the block .
Hi, do all LS engines require lash caps and if so on which rocker do you install the lash caps on? All the rockers or just the intake side or exhaust side
How can I tell what my problem is? Lifter, rocker or cam? I had a code for #3 misfire, there is a rattling sound so I took off the valve cover and found one very loose rocker. Meaning a lot of play between rocker and pushrod. Thanks for your help.
What motor do you have? Does there appear to be any damage to the valve spring or rocker arm? If not, then it might be a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod. Of course, if you find a bent pushrod, the next question is how did that happen and is there other damage. A compression test and cylinder leak down test may also be in order.
@@ScrufsGarage Hi thanks for the response. I have a rebuilt and built up LQ4 with aluminum heads. The heads are not ported, just cleaned up and had stainless valves installed and better springs, etc to go with the cam upgrade to support up to .610 lift. LS 7 lifters and stronger pushrods to support the stronger springs. When I turned it over by hand all the rockers were functioning but exhaust valve rocker on number 3 looked like it stuck and then popped the the pushrod up to the rocker before opening the valve. So I’m expecting it’s a stuck lifter. I haven’t checked the other side yet but I will be checking it over the weekend. Now just trying to find someone to do the job for me. What parts do you suggest I order up front?
Yes, the stock head bolts are torque to yield (ie single use). I’d recommend at least getting the ARP head bolts, which are reusable. Or their head studs if you’re adding boost.
@@ScrufsGarage thank you very much for your help is a suburban am going to order the ARP head bolts for it I ordered from Texas Ls head gasket lifters and push rods and am going to order the ARP head bolts better safe than sorry I ordered it from Todd riggler Ls performance parts shop cosmetic Head gasket oil pump and timing chain a complete package can't go wrong better some Auto parts thank you for your help merry Christmas too you and your family
so i replaced my lq4 header on one side and did not rotate the engine to know the exhaust valve to be on its base circle. so i basically just torqued each rocker arm to 22lbs of torque. i clearly did it wrong. when torquing one of the rocker arms. the valve spring is half compressed down/way to much compared to the other springs. the car idles to strong and the rpms are off. im afraid i might of damaged one of the pushrods or lifters. hopefully nothing else.
The risk of tightening the rocker arm bolt when the cam isn't on the base circle is that you can damage the threads in the head because you are compressing the valve spring at the same time. But I think it's unlikely you damage a pushrod or lifter. You said the car "idles to strong." Do you mean the idle is too high? You could have a vacuum leak somewhere.
@@ScrufsGarage hmmm maybe its not idleing to strong or high. when i rev the car. i feel like its about to die. i will loosen the pushrod and check the pushrod and lifter. i dont hear any weird noises while car is idleing. i will check for vacuum leaks.
Highly unlikely you will damage threads in the head, the rocker bolt is well threaded before any spring tension is taken up. Threads have to take the spring load dynamically when the engine is running, so are strong enough for the load. Issue is potentially that the real torque is actually low as you are torqueing (to an extent) the valve spring. I cannot see the original factory assembly rotating the crank to install these? My factory bolts seem to have been way tighter than 22 Lb/Ft. If you set the crank to TDC on firing stroke both intake and exhaust can be done at same time for each cylinder. There are charts showing which to do from a specific crank position, multiple cylinders can be done at the same time, much easier when in car.
Carlton Robinson For the head gaskets I used the GM MLS gaskets. Nothing crazy. Cometic makes some thinner gaskets if you need something special but they are significantly more $$ than the GM stuff.
Keep in mind that the OE GM head bolts are "torque to yield", so they'll have a different torque sequence that what I demonstrated. If you choose to use ARP head bolts, they will include they're recommended torque spec. The ARP bolts are a good choose since they are both stronger than OE, and they are reusable.
I was aiming for around 0.070" pre-load. I did a video on measuring pushrod length to help make sure you get the proper lifter pre-load. ua-cam.com/video/9sWnhRe8rs4/v-deo.html
I added it to the episode notes but wanted to specifically call it out in the comments too...
On ported heads, likely the intake rocker arm bolt hole becomes a through hole into the intake runner. In which case, be sure to use some thread sealer on that rock arm bolt so that oil doesn't seep past. (not shown in video - I went back and added it). On stock heads it is a blind hole (doesn't go all the way through), so the thread sealer isn't mentioned in typical repair instructions.
I'M SORRY...WHAT!!!
This is normal, and not a screw up on their part??
Your freshly TSP PRC heads had this "charictaristic" ??
How many could possibly cut through? Isn't this a restriction, as well a leak situation? What kind of thread sealer??
@@13megagreek had this issue on my head as well, all good, just use any thread sealant and you'll be fine
@@jonwavy6242 ok,thanks
Great step by step instruction. Thankful for guys like you that take the time to explain everything.
Glad the video was helpful. Thanks for watching. 👍
This was by far the best video I have seen covering the rocker arm installation for a LS motor!
Thank you for the encouraging words and I'm glad to hear that the video was helpful! Thanks for watching.
Thanks for not making me feel stupid for being a beginner unlike many other channels.
No worries man. Every expert was a beginner at some point. I still learn new things every day. That's what makes the YT channels so great. It's easy to share info. Keep at it!
Dude knows his stuff. I like how as soon as the torque wrench clicks he stops, as oppesed to some people who make it click 2 or 3 times which is just unnecessary. Great videos and nice camera angles!!
Thanks for the kind words. Very glad the video was helpful. I agree, continuing to pull on the torque wrench after it clicks isn't needed and you risk over-torqueing a bolt. You really have to get to know your specific torque wrench. With mine, a smooth steady pull is most accurate. If I pull really slowly or really quickly, it will give a false reading.
Loving the LS/C5 tech videos, I’ve watched just about all of them! Keep up the good work, can’t wait for the next one.
Glad I found your Channel ! Very detailed videos exactly what I needed for my c5 ! Keep them coming !!
Awesome, glad the videos are helpful! thanks for watching
Your videos are great. You've helped me out a lot.
Thanks for the kind words. Nice to know the videos are helpful. Thank you for watching!
Thanks👍my rocker arms they came out, rod came out of the metal cover it made a hole my mechanic just tighten bolts that's all he did thanks
i subbed because your vid was very well done and helped me alot.
thank you very much sir and have a good day!
Thanks for watching and for the sub! And very happy to hear the videos have been helpful!
Awesome video Bro. Hey but question you suppose to use the Dynamometric key? To adjust the bolts too? I have to torque the head bolts can l just adjust them with the torque wrench only?
I just ordered some PRC heads from Texas Speed. How do you set valve lash? What about lifter pre-load? Can you do a video on the lash?
I bought complete heads from PRC and they came already set up with the valve springs (and valve lash). As for lifter preload, this is determined by the push rod length. I have a video specifically on that topic, so check it out when you get a chance. Good luck on your project!
Excellent video. Quick question, I may have not caught it however, did you "lube" the fastener holes for the rocker arm retainer bolts? and what about the main rocker mounting assembly bolts to the head?. Doing my first swap, and uber cautious, yours and other videos are a HUGE HELP. Thanks!
if you ever get a chance please do a full video on how to drop the transmission.
I have some video of both removing and installing the torque tube and trans/diff. Just need to edit several hours of video down to the key bits to make it more watchable. It's a beast of a job but I am living proof it can be done in your garage, on jack stands, completely by yourself.
That would be awesome, i wanted to take my transmission out to do a rebuild but haven't found any good vids on step by step tutorial
Nice video, how did you find the torque sequence for your vehicle?
You can typically look up the torque sequence online, or if you have a copy of the FSM, or access to repair guides like Alldata/Motologic/Mitchell, etc. There are also some good LS engine building books available with detailed information. I bought this book some years ago: amzn.to/4eapll1
You should be using assembly lube on the both ends of the push rods. And you are not supposed to put oil on bolts that don’t call for it you change the torque rating when you oil the threads
Sorry for the confusion as I didn't specify in the video. Oil was being applied to the trunnion bushing, not down the bolt hole. You are correct, lubricating threads reduces the torque required to achieve the same clamping force.
Im needing help with removing and replacing my heads on a GM 6.0.
How do I drain the block. I took off the lower radiator hose but only fluid came out was from the radiator. I need to get the fluid out the block .
Can this metod (22 lb/ft) be used on a L99 engine with VVT and COMP Cams MK189-301-13?
excellent vid
Awesome! Great to hear the video was helpful. Thanks for watching.
Hi, do all LS engines require lash caps and if so on which rocker do you install the lash caps on? All the rockers or just the intake side or exhaust side
If the push rods are the same size why do you have to do the firing oder🤔
Maaan this is a great video, what is the torque on thouse rocker arms ? Thanks in advance great work
Thanks for watching! Glad you found it helpful. Rocker arm bolt torque spec is 22 ft-lbs.
So you rotate it till they sit down and adjust ???
How can I tell what my problem is? Lifter, rocker or cam? I had a code for #3 misfire, there is a rattling sound so I took off the valve cover and found one very loose rocker. Meaning a lot of play between rocker and pushrod. Thanks for your help.
What motor do you have? Does there appear to be any damage to the valve spring or rocker arm? If not, then it might be a collapsed lifter or bent pushrod. Of course, if you find a bent pushrod, the next question is how did that happen and is there other damage. A compression test and cylinder leak down test may also be in order.
@@ScrufsGarage Hi thanks for the response. I have a rebuilt and built up LQ4 with aluminum heads. The heads are not ported, just cleaned up and had stainless valves installed and better springs, etc to go with the cam upgrade to support up to .610 lift. LS 7 lifters and stronger pushrods to support the stronger springs.
When I turned it over by hand all the rockers were functioning but exhaust valve rocker on number 3 looked like it stuck and then popped the the pushrod up to the rocker before opening the valve. So I’m expecting it’s a stuck lifter. I haven’t checked the other side yet but I will be checking it over the weekend. Now just trying to find someone to do the job for me. What parts do you suggest I order up front?
What head bolts are you using I have a 98 z28 and the ones I have are to small
Hello merry Christmas you recommend me to by new head bolts for my 04-5.3 suburban
Yes, the stock head bolts are torque to yield (ie single use). I’d recommend at least getting the ARP head bolts, which are reusable. Or their head studs if you’re adding boost.
@@ScrufsGarage thank you very much for your help is a suburban am going to order the ARP head bolts for it I ordered from Texas Ls head gasket lifters and push rods and am going to order the ARP head bolts better safe than sorry I ordered it from Todd riggler Ls performance parts shop cosmetic Head gasket oil pump and timing chain a complete package can't go wrong better some Auto parts thank you for your help merry Christmas too you and your family
so i replaced my lq4 header on one side and did not rotate the engine to know the exhaust valve to be on its base circle. so i basically just torqued each rocker arm to 22lbs of torque. i clearly did it wrong. when torquing one of the rocker arms. the valve spring is half compressed down/way to much compared to the other springs. the car idles to strong and the rpms are off. im afraid i might of damaged one of the pushrods or lifters. hopefully nothing else.
The risk of tightening the rocker arm bolt when the cam isn't on the base circle is that you can damage the threads in the head because you are compressing the valve spring at the same time. But I think it's unlikely you damage a pushrod or lifter. You said the car "idles to strong." Do you mean the idle is too high? You could have a vacuum leak somewhere.
@@ScrufsGarage hmmm maybe its not idleing to strong or high. when i rev the car. i feel like its about to die. i will loosen the pushrod and check the pushrod and lifter. i dont hear any weird noises while car is idleing. i will check for vacuum leaks.
Highly unlikely you will damage threads in the head, the rocker bolt is well threaded before any spring tension is taken up. Threads have to take the spring load dynamically when the engine is running, so are strong enough for the load. Issue is potentially that the real torque is actually low as you are torqueing (to an extent) the valve spring. I cannot see the original factory assembly rotating the crank to install these? My factory bolts seem to have been way tighter than 22 Lb/Ft. If you set the crank to TDC on firing stroke both intake and exhaust can be done at same time for each cylinder. There are charts showing which to do from a specific crank position, multiple cylinders can be done at the same time, much easier when in car.
Is that the same for a 2012 camaro ss with LS3?
What gasket kit did you buy I'm building a 5.3
Carlton Robinson For the head gaskets I used the GM MLS gaskets. Nothing crazy. Cometic makes some thinner gaskets if you need something special but they are significantly more $$ than the GM stuff.
@@ScrufsGarage I seen something that Amazon sells vincos it's an MLS gasket I didn't know if that was what you were using or not
What can cause my car to back fire just recently did an ls swap change the heads cam and push rods but the backfire comes when I’m giving it gas
Hard to say, it could be a lot of things. Are you confident you got the cam timing right?
What size pushrods “?
Is it normal that once I completed one side of the heads with the rocker arms, the crank got even harder to turn?
It's the engine compression
What were you squirting into what looked like the rocker arm bolt hole? oil?
Yes, squirted some oil onto the rocker arm trunnion, and some assembly lube on the rocker arm tip.
@@ScrufsGarage why did you? and does the oil change the torque spec?
I have an 06 Escalade with a 6.0 I need to replace the head gaskets. Are your torque specs the same ?
Keep in mind that the OE GM head bolts are "torque to yield", so they'll have a different torque sequence that what I demonstrated. If you choose to use ARP head bolts, they will include they're recommended torque spec. The ARP bolts are a good choose since they are both stronger than OE, and they are reusable.
If you hadn't filled your lifters with oil, you could tighten the rockers all the way.
Can you re-use the original rocker arm bolts ?
TBags clan yes the stock rocker bolts can be reused. If you buy the Straub trunnion kit like I did, they include new rocker bolts.
Ok thank you i appreciate it. I will get the kit when i am ready to port my heads
What preload 0.00 !?
I was aiming for around 0.070" pre-load. I did a video on measuring pushrod length to help make sure you get the proper lifter pre-load. ua-cam.com/video/9sWnhRe8rs4/v-deo.html