The Circular Saw Secrets The Government Doesn't Want You To Know!
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- Опубліковано 25 лип 2024
- Everything you need to know about getting excellent clean straight cuts with a circular/skill saw.
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As an old-guy, I love that you called it a Skil-saw (even though you are using a Makita).
I think the depth (having been there) is probably the biggest rookie mistake. I like the tape hack. I have started using a marking knife, which has made my cuts so much cleaner.
Excellent tip, I’ll have to try out the marking knife.
Oh, good call! I must try that. Just like you would with a hand saw. (Slaps forehead!)
Being an old guy myself....that's how I was taught
@@TheFunnyCarpenter And if you are actually building cabinets try an 80 tooth blade it is worth the money.
@@markbernier8434 I'm sure this dude has EVERY TOOTH COUNT blade you can imagine, he's trying to show us how a coarse 2x4 type blade can also make nice cuts when needed.
Here's my tip:
If you make a very shallow depth initial cut,just into the surface, then make the 2nd cut JUST beyond the board depth, you'll get good results on both surfaces. It takes a little longer but it's worth it. I discovered this when cutting an oak-veneered chipboard.
You can also make a score cut with a knife first on the side you want instead of a pencil mark
@@tullgutten that's what I do
Came to the comments specifically for this. Above goat level.
+1 on this. But I think I will try to add tape as well, so pre-cut plus tape.
I have cut a few doors in my day, and this is a great video, I would add that using tape and scribing the line with a straight edge and a razor will help eliminate the splintering and lifting, by cutting just one side of the line.
Just keep in mind to put your finished surface underneath. Even press some half-inch MDF down on top depending on the size of your cuts. The thing that really annoys me about circular saws is constantly fiddling with the guard seems like it always gets hung up and you worry that it's going to catch and kick the saw back
I usually have drywall tape or shims near me, I jam SOMETHING in between the guard lift and the saw to hold it up and out of my way, it jams up far too often. Of course this tip isn't for people that are not extremely comfortable with a skill saw...
Saw guards are dangerous and should be banned?
😡
As a hardwood flooring contractor, I can't tell you how many doors (with thin laminate surfaces) I've had to trim after installing new floors. Always score with a sharp razor knife!
Good tip, thank you. I have to cut down my sons door in the near future, I’ll test it out vs the way I usually do it.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter Same tip I was going to relate. Run your blade on the outside of the knife line = smooth finish on the finished side.
Yep!
Use a marking guage (on the top). Might call it something different in the USA
That's an absolute must! Cut 1/64th on the far side of your score mark.
.....hey, after cutting the door, you're going to sand or bevel the cut edge with a sanding block, right?
Great demonstration!
Thank you Funny Carpenter, good guidance. I'm going to add this: When building things I keep the saw in the garage. That prevents getting sawdust in the house or treated wood sawdust in the garden.I like to use 4 generous size c-clamps and often times a piece of 2x4 or 1/2" oak flooring as a guide bar. Although you didn't say it in words, your video shows a lot of safe workmanship practice. Your video is definitely worth watching twice.
Nice introduction, thank you. I bought an 18 DIY circular saw and have since sold my much more powerful corded Black and Decker. It's slower, but does a nice job and the kickback is much easier to handle if I screw up. A lot lighter, as well.
My best results method: 'good side down', first cut (score cut) approx 1/4 to 1/2 the thickness of work-piece, then second cut the full thickness plus the blade tooth. No tape needed.
I 've been on the tape method but never thought about consideration of blade depth. Hoping to go beyond that DIY now:) Thanks sir...appreciate that!
Nice tip. I don't have the budget for a track saw. Also thanks for wearing eye and ear protection as if it were second nature unlike so many well knowns who don't set an example. My tinnitus reminds me of this constantly :)
I couldn’t agree more David; so many supposed “Pro’s” exhibiting dangerous working practices on video - well done Funny Carpenter!
Ty, your the first person to explain the purpose behind setting blade depth..the angle of the teeth..
Make sure that the blade manufacturer say to only let the blade tip (Freud/Diablow for sure) show through the piece as I had a couple that "suggested" near the bottom of the gullet
I always score along the cut line with a utility knife and a straight edge, prior to sawing, when I'm cutting something that needs to look nice, especially on plywood, since you can easily cut through the first ply with a couple of passes with the knife.
Yes, the tape idea with a roller looks wonderful! Great results! Also the blade depth, spot on. And as others have mentioned, running a razor knife along the pencil line to pre-cut the surface fibers cleanly helps too. Of course these are only used on cuts that must look perfect. As an general safety rule, I try to never allow any part of my body to cross the plane of the spinning blade at any time. I don't stand behind the saw, I stay to the side. If kick-back occurs, I'm not in the path of the saw. I'll have to try adding a zero clearance shoe plate to the bottom of the saw.
Another tip with the tape is that you don't want to pull it against the grain, but with the grain, so try to pry it just a bit, then fold itself over and kind of slide in the opposite direction. That will help keeping those loose fibres in place and not bring them up with the tape as you remove it. Also always keep the nice side down, many don't realise that. Another great way is adding a zero clearance to the saw, meaning you loose a little bit of cut depth, but this helps the most.
Cheers
I'm excited to watch this. I recently got the Kregg jig for circular saw. It was really nice but I'm hoping I can get even better cuts.
Great tips - thank you! One safety tip I learned and would like to share: if you keep both hands attached to the tool’s handles it can’t cut them off. That saw has two handles and using both is a good idea…
Fair enough- I’d say one handed operation of a skill saw is more common, because often times the off hand is holding material steady.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter expert pro tip .. do a 2mm deep cut before u do your full depth cut
@@makg4655 I’ve always found a scoring cut with a skill saw a little dicey. Works great with a track saw.
@@TheFunnyCarpenter if u using a guide then all good .. how about rating that EINHELL TOOL RANGE FOR PEOPLE V RYOBI OR WHATEVER EQUIVALENT OUT THERE
But I need that hand to brace the 2x4 on my leg
Often overlooked in the tape trick is when you remove it do not pull straight up. Small slivers that are still loosely attached to the board will break loose to stay with the tape. Best if you can roll the tape off into the cut, so it pulls the fibers along the grain toward the cut edge. (Note, how he pulled the tape differently on the novice and GOAT cuts.)
For a retired old soldier who now has a hobby shop/ diy wood shop…. Great tips, iv subscribed to your channel
Thanks mac, hopefully some of the videos will be helpful.
Thumbs up for title alone!
True goat: marking the line with a marking knife to sever the fibers, all but eliminating tearout.
Excellent tip!
Especially true if trimming a slab door that has luan outer skins. The previous owner(s) of my hose didn't and those doors were so bad that they long ago went to the town dump
Great video! I gave it a thumbs up before it gets taken down by the feds 🙂
Another helpful AND enjoyable video! Thank you!
🍻👍🏻
This is a great tip even though I have been using circular saw for a long time.
I love Carpentry work and this trick always comes handy. They way u put it so so explain in the best way. Love it
thanks for taking the time and trouble to show us some basic stuff
There are different numbered saw tooth blades for different projects for a reason, as you mentioned. Skip the tape. Use the correct saw blade, for your specific project. Still a good demonstration for the beginner.
I learned a loooog time ago to keep the larger part of the base plate (under the motor) on the supported side of the cut. This gives better stability at the end of the cut.
I’m a rookie so I just got a better saw blade to avoid chip out and it worked. Good to know about the depth of the blade, will keep that in mind.
🍻👍🏻
Suggest you try just running a super shallow pre-score cut to eliminate almost all tear out, then run a second pass for your GOAT.
Thanks, I didn't know about the painter's tape thing (I guess I don't watch enough DIY videos). Funny though, I've always set my blade depth to match the wood thickness since the first time I used a circular saw. I'm generally not much of a manual reader, but circular saws scare the crap out of me so the first time I ever used one I made sure the read the manual and it instructed me to set the blade depth to match the wood. As such, I've never had had any tearout that looked as bad as that first cut.
Thanks for checking out the video Eric
Wow! Amazing tips! Thanks for these great videos!
It also helps if you keep the side that faces out where people are going to see it on the bottom. That way the better smooth cut surface faces out and the rough cut surface that has to be sanded down faces inward where it will rarely be seen.
Scoring the cut line with a utility knife will give you an even better look on the finished surface.
Thank you very much for those great advices 😃👍
Great lighting, sound and camera shots!
Thanks
Very nice video. Many thanks.
Thanks for the info
Great video, subbed!
Great video. Really liked it.
Thanks Larry, hope the tips will come in handy!
Great tips ! 😁 👍👍 thanks ! 👷 👍👍 .
Thanks, I learned something today! Where were you 40 years ago?
I was 4, and didn’t have a lot to offer in terms of saw tips😂🍻thanks for checking out the video
Great editing, thanks.
This is hilarious and well done!
Great video. Learned something. I knew that blade depth was important but not why 💡many thanks. New subscriber 🇬🇧
Thanks mate, I appreciate you checking out the channel!
To eliminate all tear-out on the upper surface clamp a piece of scrap ply or timber over your cut line. Cut through both together, and the tear-out is on the scrap piece. Works better than tape.
I love your video. They are great.
Good tips that Big Saw don't want us to know.
The title of this video had me and my husband laughing so hard! 😂😂😂
Thank u! Some people have got pretty bent out of shape about the title- I thought it was pretty obvious I was joking
@@TheFunnyCarpenter total face palm to the folks who don’t find the funny in it. 😂🤦🏼♀️
Thx for the tips boss :)
Thanks Thomas:)
I don't have a fancy track saw either. But I was foresighted enough to buy a cirkular saw that supported tracks (Bosch GKS 18 V-Li / FSN 70/-140).
Bosch doesn't make ratchet clamps for these tracks, but the ones from Makita and Festool works just fine. I got myself a pair of Festool's fairly cheap on Black Friday. :)
I reach for this bad boy whenever I need to cut something that is too big for my Dewalt DW745 to handle (anything over 24").
You can use your speed square as well for narrower cuts
Great video. NB: Your beard is the perfect government approved length for maximum style without being so long as to compromise safety with blade entanglement or excessive sawdust retention.
Good video, great tips! Wouldn’t mind if you included feed rate into the mix as well.
That blade’s cut depth make a big difference. I’ve however used much slower feed rate to get very clean cuts with low teeth count blades.
That be a sliding miter saw, table saw or circular saw. If you happen to have only one blade available - make the most of it when the cut quality matters 😊
feed rate varies as the power of saws differ quite a bit and cordless [disposable ] will go slower with less charge i assume i don't use any disposable tools except for one drill i think the battery packs are going to be the 21st century version of the industrial revolutions' water and ground pollution and if they are not recycled properly they are going to be or already are a huge problem because you never hear a word about what has happened to the last 30/35years worth of discarded battery packs now we have disposable cars with massive battery packs that last 7/10 years and need replaced
Yes, these were great tips, but I was surprised no mention of feed rate too. Makes a huge difference.
I didn’t go back and rewatch, but I think the first cut was faster than the last.
Thanks for the 'Goat-Tip' as well as the other ones - take care and try to stay out of trouble!
Great tips, nice to see the results side by side.
GOAT+:
score the line with a sharp blade to reduce tear-out
GOD mode:
wax (I use furniture paste wax) and buff the underside of saw-bed for ultra easy cutting…use a new blade and it’s like floating on water, no resistance.
You’ll finally appreciate and understand “let the blade do the work”.
Lazy:
laser cutter?
That’s GENIUS! Thank you
You forgot to mention that you were using xray googles to see the line under the tape. Makes more sense to just buy the best blade that will produce minimal tear-out.
Great video on how to cut smooth and many other tips. I note you are a right hander using a left bladed saw. Perhaps another video on left Vs right bladed and pro & con might be interesting. Thanks again.
With that title, I just had to click the link! The video wasn't bad either!😀 Thanks.
So I've seen Scott brown do a score cut and then through cut without tape, is that any good compared to the goat level or is that only for different material?
You need to set the tension on the blade lock bolt- if it is set correctly you can avoid kickback.
Great Vid man. You have a new subscriber in me.
Thanks mate
Great tips ..let's go brandon
That darn guv'ment. Always trying to control the people by ensuring we only ever have crappy saw cuts. 😠
😂exactly
😂
I've been cutting high gloss Ikea cabinet boards through trial and error, I got factory cuts. 1) make a track saw jig for your circular saw ( plenty of videos on you tube for this) 2) 60 tooth Milwaukee blade. 3) keep finish side down with the the protective flim still on if you can. 4) cut on a flat even surface to provide even pressure on both sides on board. I have scrap peice on 2 inch rigid foam and a scrap piece of plywood under that. 5) Also don't cut to fast or to slow ( burn) keep nice steady speed right through past the board before you let off on the trigger. Oh yep tooth depth as you mentioned was another biggie.
Been using the foam also, it works well.
Good shout
Mark the line with a knife not a pencil = 0 break out. I thought all craftsmen did this. I was definitely taught to do so in college.
I'm wondering why the government doesn't me to know these top secret secrets?
Turn the board over and cut from the back side. Smooth cut every time.
One pro tip you didn't mention is if you took a razor knife and run it right down that cutting edge and just keep your saw blade on the other side you won't have breakout.
Thanks Michael
A 1/16-1/8 inch score cut might give you an additional level of cut.
Huh I never knew that the circular saw had a blade depth. Thanks!
Excellent. I didn't know about the G O A T mode
I am sure you expected all the UA-cam "Pros" to tell you how much better you can do. As you mentioned, if you are a beginner, these are solid tips. I must admit, I am trying to get away from the "Skillsaw" and trying to use my "circular saw" more. Thanks! !! !!!
Great video, my cuts come out like number 5
From various YT channels I watch it seems like plywood is everyone's go to for both sheeting and structural construction in the US. Is this the case or do I have a skewed dataset?
I'm no wood worker myself, so basing my experience more on all the timber projects my father used to do, and the local hardware's timber offerings. I get the impression here in Australia that it's more MFD, pine or other solid timbers, with ply being more just a sheeting solution.
I think ply is cheaper in the USA.
The first thing I do to a new circular saw is remove the blade gaurd, the second thing is eliminate the switch and hard wire it so if it's plugged in...its on.
My hero 🤗😳😁
Surprised you didn't mention that ,for exactly the issue of kickback, top handle saws were always designed with the blade on the far side of the saw keeping the saw body between the blade and your body. Rear handle or worm drive saws keep the spinning blade in front and the user has more hold back power.
I didn’t know that. Thank you!
Less power is not necessarily safer. In fact it can be more dangerous if you start forcing things because of a lack of power. If you are holding the guard open, which you were so it does not snag. You might as well go ahead and tape it open. Remember to wait for the blade to stop spinning before setting the saw down.
Totally agree. You end up putting too much uneeded pressure on the saw. I have a Dewalt circular the just about cut the tips of my toes off, because I put the saw on the floor before the blade stopped. The guard was sticky and didn't come down fast enough.
Always score the board with a razor knife. I can't tell you how many doors I've had to trim
I try to keep the finish side down when cutting with a circular saw. That way, any tearout is on the back.
nice ultra light hitachi framing nailer
What do you think about the mini circular saws? (4-1/2" I believe) ?
I missed the bit about why and how the government is keeping this from us.
And you’re the only one to wonder about that (apart from me now) wtf 🙄
Which government? All 206 world governments! Or just the U.N.?
It’s called “click bait”
It's a joke about the stupid ads that say that. He is the funny Carpenter
That is the normal now…..title your video something that pisses people off then never mention it again…..
Wow, now that is something I'm sure the government is extremely concerned about us knowing. I hope they don't see me doing any home projects with my skil saw, they might haul me away using these techniques.
Do you ever cut in the reverse direction? It's a "pro-tip" I picked up somewhere, but never dared try out.
My builder reverses the blade (non tipped for cutting roofing iron) using a metal guard cover skilsaw). Worked a treat.
That makita is a great saw, I use mine just like a corded saw, most of the time
Cut the wood on the underside. Perfect!
I just set the proper blade depth and cut it from the back. Perfect every time.
How dull is that blade? Looks like one of ours when we run it through wood with a bit of concrete on it lol. Good video!!
Brilliant idea. Measurelines powerfull ovortape. Bravo 😂😂
If you want just one edge nice, get a craft knife to draw you line about 3-4 times then cut just the other side of the line with the circular saw and one edge will be perfect.
The downside to tape on an interior door as in your example is that today's low VOC paints barely stick to things! Careful removing the tape!
One more pointout, haveing more teeth on the blade is not the case here. There are three basic groups of materials, wooden products, metals and cement boards. teeth on the blade have certain angle on them and tips are shapened on certain angle. That angle determines quality of the cut, number of teeth determines speed you can move on in hard material, less teeth, less speed
For the absolute best cut, cut through the upper laminate with a razor knife on the keeper side of the cut
Damn I guess I've been a pro all along
What about using something straight like a long level as a guide, it would be like a poor mans track saw?
That'll do yeah.. or just use a higher tooth count blade. Like a standard 24tooth or for finish stuff a 40 or 60 tooth
I turn the plywood over. Perfect cut every time. Dont waste my time with tape, other boards laid on top. Zero kerf inserts or nothing.
And there are ripping/crosscut blades to consider.
Indeed