Thank you, as always, for this episode. I would also love to see an episode talking about how to modify the shape of a neckline (for example, from a crew neck to a scooped neckline) for both bottom up and top down construction. I’ve looked everywhere for such an explanation but have come up empty and I know your explanation would help. A bonus would be an explanation of changing the neckline depth if one has to increase (like me) or decrease the length in that area.
Hi! I'd like to know more about decreasing at the sides to prevent a pinching in the waistband when making the back of a sweater longer than the front. Do you have a video on that yet? Tia 🙂
A lower neck in the front requires more length in the front from the neck to the shoulder. If you were knitting flat, and wanted a scoop neck, you would knit longer left and right fronts from the center of the scoop to the shoulders. This additional length needed is similar to the length needed to accommodate a large bustline. The whole front of the sweater needs to be longer, since it goes a greater distance from the shoulders to the hem. Without it, the hem in the front would appear to be tipped up. In addition, patterns always divide the stitches in the round equally; that is, the sleeves get so many stitches, and the back and front each get the same number of stitches as each other. A sweater worn by someone with a narrow back and large bust should have more stitches allotted to the front than the back.
Good explanation . I have noticed this when making my first a crew neck vs how the construction is on my first round or scoop neck pattern. (neck shaping and eventual join , ribbing added after ) A circle is a circle and have even seen some photos of sweaters where it looks like people are hunching their shoulders because a few too many short rows , the back is pushing up.
This was great though I am disappointed that you did not show your doggies (I am new to your podcast). I appreciate that you included the different method of shaping the neckline without the short rows as I don't like when the neckline is too wide. Awesome work, thanks Megan!
Hee hee, I'd put my dogs in every video if I could. But thanks so much for watching and I'm glad the info was helpful. I'll try to convince the pups to be more active in future episodes. ;)
Thank you for that clear explanation! I arrived at your video looking for an answer to a short row in rib question. I have a nearly completed sweater for which I did an afterthought rib collar, and the neckline is too wide and will show my bra straps, but the front and back are fine. I wondered if i could do short rows in rib on each side to bring the sides in, but am I right in thinking that this would simply push down the sleeves? I can, of course, frog the rib and decrease at the neckline, but was wondering if short rows might help. I dont think casting off tightly will help and if it doesn't, I dont want to rip a cast off edge out as the yarn is a bit special.
Thank you, that was a very good explanation, I have made the 'So Faded' pattern twice already. I love the pattern and it was very well written. If for instance, I wanted to knit it again and have the neck just a little bit wider/lower would I just start off with more stitches and then adjust the pattern accordingly?
You're welcome! And yes - a couple of things would need to happen. Since you're not using short rows, the stitches that you increase at the front edge set the depth of the collar edge. So you can cast on more stitches at the back neck to make the back neckline wider. Then plan to work more of the front edge shaping rows to make it deeper at the front. This will mean you'll end up working more raglan shaping at the sleeves and back because you're working more rows to make the front deeper. Then you'll have to determine where you are stitch-count-wise once you've cast on the center front stitches to join in the round and the adjust your remaining raglan shaping from that point forward. I'd love to hear how it goes if you make this mod!!
I want to know where to take the short rows to, on a top down cardigan in order to raise the back neckline a little - just across the back section, or into the shoulder section, or even into the front sections?? I could not find this anywhere. I decided to do 6 decreasing short rows just across the back section of the cardigan.
Thank you so much for this! I got linked to your video from another one and this was incredibly helpful. I have straight shoulders that are broad relative to my chest circumference. I’ve struggled with both hand knit and commercially bought tops bunching at the back of the neck. When knitting sweaters, can I simply reduce the number of short rows and knit the rest as is? Given my straight broad shoulders, I also struggle with some types of construction, especially round yokes. Is there any helping it? I love the idea of these beautiful round yoked colorwork sweaters, but I have trouble getting them to lay right over my shoulders.
Thank you for this AMAZING video!! I was wondering, can I add these short rows later on in a raglan top down sweater (before separating the arms)? Or do I need to add them right after I finish the neck? In addition, how do we determine how many stitches past the raglan increases to surpass with each short row?
You're very welcome! This coming Wednesday, March 13th, I have a video that discusses exactly this - adding short rows to the bottom of a yoke and my favorite percentages for doing so. I hope it'll help you!
Hi - thank you for this video. One question: How do you convert the 1.75inch (for example) shoulder drop/length into rows for the short rows? Is there a calculation method to use?
Yes - adding short rows can definitely help with that, but if the hump is quite pronounced it may take a bit more than just short rows to accomplish it. While I don't have a video on it, you might wish to do a Google search for a forward-shoulder modification. This is often used in sewing to accommodate for those of us with a hump or rolled shoulders. That might be a better solution for you to consider.
Great video thanks. I find that no matter how many short rows I do my garments, especially round yokes, still pull back so that there is a large opening at the back of my neck. 🤦🏻♀️
I wonder if this is something to do with what sewers talk about - a forward shoulder adjustment. I'll have to look into this since I know there are some folks where the short rows don't lift the back no matter what!
Sent over here from @woolneedleshands podcast, and this explanation of short rows and modifications was absolutely fascinating! Thank you! 🧶💚 New sub!
This is how I got to this podcast myself, too.
Thank you, as always, for this episode. I would also love to see an episode talking about how to modify the shape of a neckline (for example, from a crew neck to a scooped neckline) for both bottom up and top down construction. I’ve looked everywhere for such an explanation but have come up empty and I know your explanation would help. A bonus would be an explanation of changing the neckline depth if one has to increase (like me) or decrease the length in that area.
Ok - I've made a note of this request! Thanks for the feedback!
Hi! I'd like to know more about decreasing at the sides to prevent a pinching in the waistband when making the back of a sweater longer than the front. Do you have a video on that yet?
Tia 🙂
Thanks for the explanation of short rows. Looking forward to the sock episode. Glad to hear your pups are doing fine.
A lower neck in the front requires more length in the front from the neck to the shoulder. If you were knitting flat, and wanted a scoop neck, you would knit longer left and right fronts from the center of the scoop to the shoulders. This additional length needed is similar to the length needed to accommodate a large bustline. The whole front of the sweater needs to be longer, since it goes a greater distance from the shoulders to the hem. Without it, the hem in the front would appear to be tipped up.
In addition, patterns always divide the stitches in the round equally; that is, the sleeves get so many stitches, and the back and front each get the same number of stitches as each other. A sweater worn by someone with a narrow back and large bust should have more stitches allotted to the front than the back.
Good explanation . I have noticed this when making my first a crew neck vs how the construction is on my first round or scoop neck pattern. (neck shaping and eventual join , ribbing added after ) A circle is a circle and have even seen some photos of sweaters where it looks like people are hunching their shoulders because a few too many short rows , the back is pushing up.
I'm curious to think about hunchiness/curved spine accommodation rather than "shoulder slope".
I agree, seems to me that shoulder slope is completely irrelevant here.
Excellent explanation!
Really great explanation!
This was amazing excellent visual aids. I have a little less fear in sweater knitting now.
This was great though I am disappointed that you did not show your doggies (I am new to your podcast). I appreciate that you included the different method of shaping the neckline without the short rows as I don't like when the neckline is too wide.
Awesome work, thanks Megan!
Hee hee, I'd put my dogs in every video if I could. But thanks so much for watching and I'm glad the info was helpful. I'll try to convince the pups to be more active in future episodes. ;)
Thank you for that clear explanation! I arrived at your video looking for an answer to a short row in rib question. I have a nearly completed sweater for which I did an afterthought rib collar, and the neckline is too wide and will show my bra straps, but the front and back are fine. I wondered if i could do short rows in rib on each side to bring the sides in, but am I right in thinking that this would simply push down the sleeves? I can, of course, frog the rib and decrease at the neckline, but was wondering if short rows might help. I dont think casting off tightly will help and if it doesn't, I dont want to rip a cast off edge out as the yarn is a bit special.
Thank you, that was a very good explanation, I have made the 'So Faded' pattern twice already. I love the pattern and it was very well written. If for instance, I wanted to knit it again and have the neck just a little bit wider/lower would I just start off with more stitches and then adjust the pattern accordingly?
You're welcome! And yes - a couple of things would need to happen. Since you're not using short rows, the stitches that you increase at the front edge set the depth of the collar edge. So you can cast on more stitches at the back neck to make the back neckline wider. Then plan to work more of the front edge shaping rows to make it deeper at the front. This will mean you'll end up working more raglan shaping at the sleeves and back because you're working more rows to make the front deeper. Then you'll have to determine where you are stitch-count-wise once you've cast on the center front stitches to join in the round and the adjust your remaining raglan shaping from that point forward. I'd love to hear how it goes if you make this mod!!
Great video!!!!!
Great explanation. Thank you.
You’re welcome!
Thanks for a great video 🎉🧶
I want to know where to take the short rows to, on a top down cardigan in order to raise the back neckline a little - just across the back section, or into the shoulder section, or even into the front sections?? I could not find this anywhere. I decided to do 6 decreasing short rows just across the back section of the cardigan.
Thank you so much for this! I got linked to your video from another one and this was incredibly helpful. I have straight shoulders that are broad relative to my chest circumference. I’ve struggled with both hand knit and commercially bought tops bunching at the back of the neck. When knitting sweaters, can I simply reduce the number of short rows and knit the rest as is?
Given my straight broad shoulders, I also struggle with some types of construction, especially round yokes. Is there any helping it? I love the idea of these beautiful round yoked colorwork sweaters, but I have trouble getting them to lay right over my shoulders.
Thank you for this AMAZING video!! I was wondering, can I add these short rows later on in a raglan top down sweater (before separating the arms)? Or do I need to add them right after I finish the neck? In addition, how do we determine how many stitches past the raglan increases to surpass with each short row?
You're very welcome! This coming Wednesday, March 13th, I have a video that discusses exactly this - adding short rows to the bottom of a yoke and my favorite percentages for doing so. I hope it'll help you!
Hi - thank you for this video. One question: How do you convert the 1.75inch (for example) shoulder drop/length into rows for the short rows? Is there a calculation method to use?
That's a great question! In two weeks, the week after American Thanksgiving, I'll cover this in a video so you can see the math for it!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitterthat would be great thanks so much ❤
I assume this would work well for those with a slight dowagers hump to the back.
Yes - adding short rows can definitely help with that, but if the hump is quite pronounced it may take a bit more than just short rows to accomplish it. While I don't have a video on it, you might wish to do a Google search for a forward-shoulder modification. This is often used in sewing to accommodate for those of us with a hump or rolled shoulders. That might be a better solution for you to consider.
Great video thanks. I find that no matter how many short rows I do my garments, especially round yokes, still pull back so that there is a large opening at the back of my neck. 🤦🏻♀️
I wonder if this is something to do with what sewers talk about - a forward shoulder adjustment. I'll have to look into this since I know there are some folks where the short rows don't lift the back no matter what!
@@TheUnapologeticKnitter I also wonder if it might be due to a rounded upper back (to put it diplomatically 😅)