The giveaway sign was the loud hum from the transformer. Caused by the heavy current flowing though the poor capacitor. When you hear that, smoke often follows.
NEVER connect speakers on an amplifier before all testing have been done correctly with the proper equipement. Hearing a loud humming sound from a transformer is a big red flag! You already electric shock youself and "Kaboom" a capacitor in your face, you learning the wrong way.
0:39 - "I'm not a professional.. I break as much as I fix" Finally, I found a new potential member to my club! Guess what: my success/failure rate on anything is 1:2 BILLIONS! 😂😂😂 * I'm just joking about the "membership". I wish you success on your projects. Thanks for sharing them! 😊
Good on you for being willing to make mistakes! Ive done the same myself repairing PCB's. I use a marker and make a little dot where the neg lead goes before pulling caps now.
I always take several photos from different angles before I work on a board, just in case I need to confirm things. Thankfully, the cct boards usually make it really clear on the top side which way round the polarised electrolytics go though.
Be carefull some times the board is also marked wrong,most techs take one out at a time,and put it in the way it came from the factory,it doesn't happen often,but if you watch other videos on amp repairs on You tube,you will see it.
The board is always marked on the top. Sometimes it’s around one hole, sometimes it’s adjacent to the pin. Which hole is marked is determined by the manufacturer and it’s often different. Check other electrolytic caps to see which way they are mounted. On the NAD I currently have on the bench the white marked hole is positive. On many amps I’ve done in the past the marked hole is negative. Never connect speakers until you’ve set the DC offset and bias. The amp I received passed a dim bulb test out of the box but was measuring 500mV DC offset. Needless to say I powered off immediately.
You should've held the canera still so we could see the explosion better! And now you know that the capacitor negatives don't connect to each other on a split rail PSU 🤣
Never rely on markings on a pcb, check the polarity with a meter just to be certain. The last time this happened to me was with a bad batch on multivalue capacitors in the same can the manufactuere had got the polarty wrong!
@@jasejj Yes but it will detect a high current draw on start up so to enable an immediate power down. Trust me Ive done the same under dim bulb and it saved the blown cap. I wouldnt be plugging in speakers either until you know that the amp is working without issue maybe test DC offset & idle current as well under dim bulb.
@@jasejj Have a look at both videos. It at least 3-4 seconds before the caps blow. If you have your wits about you you should be able to catch it with a DBT. I have done it. I dare you to test the theory.
@@jasejj wrong! a proper sized dim bulb WILL go full bright if a filter cap is installed wrong. i know. i have seen it first hand. it also limits the current so the cap does not go bad as long as you turn it off immediately. you need to review your notes.
Loud hum = bad… transformer is labouring. Grab a power meter for your power socket which helps show if you have a short or excessive power consumption but a dim bulb or variac is more ideal and safe. The central - does indicate ground technically but when it comes to the amplifier supply rails, you have a positive rail and a negative voltage rail, so the ground isn’t actually the ground for the negative rail as it is at a higher potential than the negative side 🙂 Never ever trust silk screening either, always take photos and replace components one at a time if possible…
de ce nu ai luat în considerare marcajele pentru condensatori, cele realizate cu vopsea? fiind vorba de un circuit de alimentare diferențial, pe cablaj era gravat faptul că e bara de 0V...
@AdeFixIt We refer to Onkyo Amplifier 3 part video series made earlier this year. Ade, "The person who never made a mistake, is the person who never made anything" (We quote Albert Einstein). The fact is, electronics is a big learning curve for anyone, errors will be made. Today, we didn't think you could solder a tilt switch a..e about face. We soon discovered differently, it didn't blow anything, was quite funny to watch 😳😳🫣🫣🫣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣. We both have 35 years of experience behind us, and still make balls ups, even now. Warmest Regards. Wayne & Nina 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿❤️❤️❤️❤️🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴
That is a JUNK amplifier! Any amplifier with quality will have a FUSE! A short of that magnitude will blow the fuse in a decent amp! First mistake made was not TAKING A PICTURE OF ANY COMPONENTS YOU ARE REPLACING! This will let you see which way capacitors go etc. Don't feel too bad, everyone that does this work blows something up every now and then!
The power supply in an AB amplifier has a much LARGER transformer , along with the larger filter capacitors. Also the layout of the transistors on the larger heatsink in that an AB amplifier produces a very high amount heat when pushed. Class D use smaller transistors on smaller heatsink, only getting barely warm, while providing sometimes hundreds of watts.
Clearly the replacement capacitor was installed in reverse polarity Before removing, mark the board with a dash mark on negative side Can't always rely on the factory labeling
@locutiss100 Close enough for me. I should have looked more closely at the amp before saying it was a class D amp. Class D amplifiers typically use a monolithic driver, often times having EQ, Mute, Balance, etc. all built into the IC. I didn't even pay attention to the FETs on the sink until after you called me out on it. I saw the late model chassis, and the small mains transformer, and the heat sink and made an assumption lol. At any rate, the size of the power transformer and reservoir (filter) caps are directly proportional to the RMS output wattage of amplifier. Class AB doesn't necessarily need a bigger power supply than in a class D amp. It still takes wattage to make wattage, and the trade-off is minimal in that regard. In more high-end designs where the instantaneous current demands are high, you will often find toroidal transformers with much larger caps, but this isn't always the case. It really depends a lot on efficiency factors (losses), dampening, etc. From what I can tell your Onkyo is an A9155? I've never serviced any Onkyo gear. Mostly I work on Peavey, Fender, Crate (most SLM stuff) for live sound, and I restore a lot of vintage Pioneer SX series receivers also. I have worked on quite a few Marantz receivers in the past too. Anyway, it's nice to see someone getting into electronics.
The giveaway sign was the loud hum from the transformer. Caused by the heavy current flowing though the poor capacitor. When you hear that, smoke often follows.
NEVER connect speakers on an amplifier before all testing have been done correctly with the proper equipement. Hearing a loud humming sound from a transformer is a big red flag! You already electric shock youself and "Kaboom" a capacitor in your face, you learning the wrong way.
I have never laughed so much!, This is entertainment at its best!
0:39 - "I'm not a professional.. I break as much as I fix"
Finally, I found a new potential member to my club!
Guess what: my success/failure rate on anything is 1:2 BILLIONS! 😂😂😂
* I'm just joking about the "membership". I wish you success on your projects. Thanks for sharing them! 😊
Good on you for being willing to make mistakes! Ive done the same myself repairing PCB's. I use a marker and make a little dot where the neg lead goes before pulling caps now.
Who needs horror movies to get a jump scare when you have Electrolytic Capacitors?😂
I always take several photos from different angles before I work on a board, just in case I need to confirm things. Thankfully, the cct boards usually make it really clear on the top side which way round the polarised electrolytics go though.
Be carefull some times the board is also marked wrong,most techs take one out at a time,and put it in the way it came from the factory,it doesn't happen often,but if you watch other videos on amp repairs on You tube,you will see it.
Proper jump-scare horror movie there 😂
I always make a sharpie mark on the neg, just for my sanity.
Everybody loves indoor pyro tactics
Scary indeed!
The board is always marked on the top. Sometimes it’s around one hole, sometimes it’s adjacent to the pin. Which hole is marked is determined by the manufacturer and it’s often different. Check other electrolytic caps to see which way they are mounted. On the NAD I currently have on the bench the white marked hole is positive. On many amps I’ve done in the past the marked hole is negative.
Never connect speakers until you’ve set the DC offset and bias. The amp I received passed a dim bulb test out of the box but was measuring 500mV DC offset. Needless to say I powered off immediately.
What's that music at the end of the video?
It's just a 20 second jingle off uppbeat
You should've held the canera still so we could see the explosion better!
And now you know that the capacitor negatives don't connect to each other on a split rail PSU 🤣
I had a small 1uf 16v capacitor pop and it scared me. Lol it happens to us all.
Never rely on markings on a pcb, check the polarity with a meter just to be certain.
The last time this happened to me was with a bad batch on multivalue capacitors in the same can
the manufactuere had got the polarty wrong!
I never thought that amps were military grade
At very least you need a dim bulb tester.
@@jasejj Yes but it will detect a high current draw on start up so to enable an immediate power down. Trust me Ive done the same under dim bulb and it saved the blown cap. I wouldnt be plugging in speakers either until you know that the amp is working without issue maybe test DC offset & idle current as well under dim bulb.
@@jasejj you obviously do not know how a dim bulb works.
@@jasejj Have a look at both videos. It at least 3-4 seconds before the caps blow. If you have your wits about you you should be able to catch it with a DBT. I have done it. I dare you to test the theory.
@@jasejj wrong! a proper sized dim bulb WILL go full bright if a filter cap is installed wrong. i know. i have seen it first hand. it also limits the current so the cap does not go bad as long as you turn it off immediately. you need to review your notes.
Loud hum = bad… transformer is labouring. Grab a power meter for your power socket which helps show if you have a short or excessive power consumption but a dim bulb or variac is more ideal and safe. The central - does indicate ground technically but when it comes to the amplifier supply rails, you have a positive rail and a negative voltage rail, so the ground isn’t actually the ground for the negative rail as it is at a higher potential than the negative side 🙂 Never ever trust silk screening either, always take photos and replace components one at a time if possible…
Dim bulb tester would have prevented that meltdown.
Who waits till the mains trafo fries?
de ce nu ai luat în considerare marcajele pentru condensatori, cele realizate cu vopsea? fiind vorba de un circuit de alimentare diferențial, pe cablaj era gravat faptul că e bara de 0V...
@AdeFixIt
We refer to Onkyo Amplifier 3 part video series made earlier this year. Ade, "The person who never made a mistake, is the person who never made anything" (We quote Albert Einstein). The fact is, electronics is a big learning curve for anyone, errors will be made. Today, we didn't think you could solder a tilt switch a..e about face. We soon discovered differently, it didn't blow anything, was quite funny to watch 😳😳🫣🫣🫣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣.
We both have 35 years of experience behind us, and still make balls ups, even now.
Warmest Regards.
Wayne & Nina
😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🤫🤫🤫🤫🤫🫡🫡🫡🫡🫡👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿❤️❤️❤️❤️🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴🏴
I see the cap orientation and i knew what happened..
oh my lordies, cap goes boom? dam! It goes :O
Shouldn't laugh but 🤣🤣🤣
Read the god damn schematic. Learn what the symetric power supply is.
😂
That is a JUNK amplifier! Any amplifier with quality will have a FUSE! A short of that magnitude will blow the fuse in a decent amp! First mistake made was not TAKING A PICTURE OF ANY COMPONENTS YOU ARE REPLACING! This will let you see which way capacitors go etc. Don't feel too bad, everyone that does this work blows something up every now and then!
Dude! The white dot near the socket shows you which side the negative should be. For Christ's sake!
Meh. It's a class D no biggie. Just keep your hands off of the AB amps lol.
The amplifier in this video is NOT a class D . Take a look at the power supply
@@locutiss100 So it is an AB, apologies. But what does the power supply have to do with it?
The power supply in an AB amplifier has a much LARGER transformer , along with the larger filter capacitors. Also the layout of the transistors on the larger heatsink in that an AB amplifier produces a very high amount heat when pushed. Class D use smaller transistors on smaller heatsink, only getting barely warm, while providing sometimes hundreds of watts.
Clearly the replacement capacitor was installed in reverse polarity
Before removing, mark the board with a dash mark on negative side
Can't always rely on the factory labeling
@locutiss100 Close enough for me. I should have looked more closely at the amp before saying it was a class D amp. Class D amplifiers typically use a monolithic driver, often times having EQ, Mute, Balance, etc. all built into the IC. I didn't even pay attention to the FETs on the sink until after you called me out on it. I saw the late model chassis, and the small mains transformer, and the heat sink and made an assumption lol. At any rate, the size of the power transformer and reservoir (filter) caps are directly proportional to the RMS output wattage of amplifier. Class AB doesn't necessarily need a bigger power supply than in a class D amp. It still takes wattage to make wattage, and the trade-off is minimal in that regard. In more high-end designs where the instantaneous current demands are high, you will often find toroidal transformers with much larger caps, but this isn't always the case. It really depends a lot on efficiency factors (losses), dampening, etc. From what I can tell your Onkyo is an A9155? I've never serviced any Onkyo gear. Mostly I work on Peavey, Fender, Crate (most SLM stuff) for live sound, and I restore a lot of vintage Pioneer SX series receivers also. I have worked on quite a few Marantz receivers in the past too. Anyway, it's nice to see someone getting into electronics.