Well explained and shot video, I had my early T25’s front and rear bushes replaced last year at a garage with PowerFlex - the ride is like night and day. No more clunking or knocking :-)
For threads on bolts, I always use some copper slip anti-seize. You will thank yourself later if you need to undo them. Great set of vids, I just purchased a T3 myself and learning all about them and your vids help.
really great video... I love that you used Math and science to set the camber...perfect. I wouldnt spend £200 on powerflex , but for £80 its well worth it.
hey, the video is new so I hope you will read this comment. About the welding, if you got holes in the dots, it's meat that the surfaces that you are trying to weld together are either dirty (oil, paint, zinc, dirt, water, rust) or the wind blow the gaz out, make sure to be out of the wind when you weld, by simply cutting the way of the wind with something like putting stuff around the table or by welding inside. I would recommend you to away wash/clean new peaces, this is even more true when you are working on mecanic parts since their is a thin layer of oil to protect any metal, gently grind the paint and seriously clean up the rush, this will be your worst enemy when working on you T3. a simple dot of rust around 1/4 inc can hide a 3inc long of rust repair (i'm thinking about you past video about the trailing arm when you want to repair the hole) Great videos, subed and following, many thanks and have a nice day
Thank you. It's the Bentley Official Factory Repair Manual, it's great. Check out my website where you can find PDF workshop manuals: vwt25.blog/files/
The upper control arm long bolt has a think washer and a "distorted 19mm nut" at the end. It is a good practice to replace the nut, as over time these will loosen up and not stay tight if not replaced. The 54 ft lbs. is recommended and re-torque after driving to see if it holds at 54 ft lbs. On my 84 westy, this nut came loose resulting in a clunk and alignment issues. Also, I have read that when using the PowerFlex bushing, welding is not necessary if pressed into place properly.
Looking to replace entire front suspension bushings along with anything else that needs replacing, doing one part at a time. Any advice as to which to start with.
Totally appreciate your vids! Looking to find those water measuring tubes. All I find are syringes 😜 What are those called And/or where do I find them? Thanks for any leads 🙏🏼 Be well Shawn L 👊🏼
Thanks for the video. I have a Q for ya. Before you tighten that nut on the camber bolt, do you have to have the vehicle back on the ground? I have a bad squeak after install of new bushings. I tightened everything while it was up on blocks.
I would like to know this also. I did the upper control arms and also have a terrible noise coming from them. Reading through the community it seems like a side affect of the poly bushing but I can't believe there isn't a right way to avoid this.
The Powerflex instructions say to do it and VW spot welded the originals. I don't think they would have bothered if there wasn't a valid and tested reason to do so.
you make the best vids for our vans dude! keep em' coming:) ... if you're interested in learning welding, fitzy's fabrications is a channel on youtube, his style is good for the kinds of work we have to do on t3/25/vanagons
@@FhVW Can't really comment on that video but seems like it's made by a competitor? The Powerflex ones were made in collaboration with Brickwerks and i've not seen anything from the T3 community which would suggest they go bad.
Well explained and shot video, I had my early T25’s front and rear bushes replaced last year at a garage with PowerFlex - the ride is like night and day. No more clunking or knocking :-)
For threads on bolts, I always use some copper slip anti-seize. You will thank yourself later if you need to undo them. Great set of vids, I just purchased a T3 myself and learning all about them and your vids help.
really great video... I love that you used Math and science to set the camber...perfect. I wouldnt spend £200 on powerflex , but for £80 its well worth it.
That is great, James. Thank you very much for making this video. I'm really, thankfully. Watching from South Africa. Hendry
James, thank you for another great video.
Lovely great and clear step by step instructions.
Keep up the good work mister.
Shawn 👍🏻
Another super helpful video James!! Thanks so much.
hey, the video is new so I hope you will read this comment.
About the welding, if you got holes in the dots, it's meat that the surfaces that you are trying to weld together are either dirty (oil, paint, zinc, dirt, water, rust) or the wind blow the gaz out, make sure to be out of the wind when you weld, by simply cutting the way of the wind with something like putting stuff around the table or by welding inside.
I would recommend you to away wash/clean new peaces, this is even more true when you are working on mecanic parts since their is a thin layer of oil to protect any metal, gently grind the paint and seriously clean up the rush, this will be your worst enemy when working on you T3. a simple dot of rust around 1/4 inc can hide a 3inc long of rust repair (i'm thinking about you past video about the trailing arm when you want to repair the hole)
Great videos, subed and following, many thanks and have a nice day
Great, thank you. I'd love to have an indoor workshop! I'll hopefully be doing some more welding later this year so thank you for the suggestions.
Great video! thanks so much for showing the process! My 84 vanagon is in need of the same!
try turning the wire speed down, the faster the wire comes out the amps will be used burning the wire and not penetration of the parent metal
Thanks for the detailed instructions! I wish you success and good health!
Amazing channel very nice and thorough. Very simply put across. What book are you using?
Thank you. It's the Bentley Official Factory Repair Manual, it's great. Check out my website where you can find PDF workshop manuals: vwt25.blog/files/
The upper control arm long bolt has a think washer and a "distorted 19mm nut" at the end. It is a good practice to replace the nut, as over time these will loosen up and not stay tight if not replaced. The 54 ft lbs. is recommended and re-torque after driving to see if it holds at 54 ft lbs. On my 84 westy, this nut came loose resulting in a clunk and alignment issues. Also, I have read that when using the PowerFlex bushing, welding is not necessary if pressed into place properly.
Again a very nice video! Tomorrow is the day for me... all parts of my front axle are complete, i think i will rewatch some of you videos!!
Good luck! Hope it goes well.
Considering doing these, just as a matter of course, as done the others. My only question is, Did they improve anything?
Looking to replace entire front suspension bushings along with anything else that needs replacing, doing one part at a time. Any advice as to which to start with.
Yesterday i have done this. Your video helpt a lot. Thank you.
What is that dome/bell thing called above the wishbone?
Totally appreciate your vids!
Looking to find those water measuring tubes.
All I find are syringes 😜
What are those called And/or where do I find them?
Thanks for any leads 🙏🏼
Be well
Shawn L 👊🏼
Thanks Shawn. This is the set I got: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00TILY1HU/
Great, like the other videos, Thank you!
Thanks for the video. I have a Q for ya. Before you tighten that nut on the camber bolt, do you have to have the vehicle back on the ground? I have a bad squeak after install of new bushings. I tightened everything while it was up on blocks.
I would like to know this also. I did the upper control arms and also have a terrible noise coming from them. Reading through the community it seems like a side affect of the poly bushing but I can't believe there isn't a right way to avoid this.
Excellent job 👏 👍 👌
Nice you didn't die welding
Very helpful 👌
You did well at £80 for those bushes!-cheapest i can find is around £180 for the set!!!
just watched end bit where you explain the ebay buy! :)
@@chrisspringett5465 Snapped them up as soon as I saw them! I was VERY lucky.
Watching your video and the one from the guy at vanagain, in on of his comments he said you don't need to weld them... how true is that???
The Powerflex instructions say to do it and VW spot welded the originals. I don't think they would have bothered if there wasn't a valid and tested reason to do so.
@@JamesAkers thanks just wanted to confirm... i got to get me a welder then... cheers!
I think it states in the manual that you don't weld the syncro ones, for what reason I don't know, but 2wd you do?
you make the best vids for our vans dude! keep em' coming:) ... if you're interested in learning welding, fitzy's fabrications is a channel on youtube, his style is good for the kinds of work we have to do on t3/25/vanagons
Thanks I'll check it out!
@@JamesAkers your work is much appreciated dude:)
I can’t recommend Fitzee enough. He’s great and I’ve learned loads from him.
Great work man, keep it up! Really helpfull :)
I read online that polyutherane bushes go bad quicker than rubber ones, is that true?
It should be the opposite, they're made to fit and forget. Powerflex bushings also come with a lifetime guarantee.
@@JamesAkers I thought that too, then I did some research on polyflex bushes and saw that most only lasted up to 3 years. Not sure where I found it.
@@JamesAkers Polyurethane Suspension Bushes - The Good & Bad is the video I watched
@@FhVW Can't really comment on that video but seems like it's made by a competitor? The Powerflex ones were made in collaboration with Brickwerks and i've not seen anything from the T3 community which would suggest they go bad.
@@JamesAkers Good call, Please let me know how those bushes will work out for you. I might install some on my LT