📳 I now offer one-on-one tuition by video call. If that’s of interest, contact me directly. If you’ve never used a free running rig, then I totally understand how difficult it is to wrap your head around how they work and why they’re so effective. If you catch carp with lead clips, it’s going to sound crazy if I say that I never use them in my fishing. This video will show the difference in the way the carp are hooked with a lead clip vs a running rig. I’ve heard from plenty of anglers telling me their switch to a running rig has changed their fishing and I hope to hear many more such success stories!
@@jasonwestmorland2278 OK, so I’ve done a few different running rig designs over the last few years, you’ll find them in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLHQUkuWLN6mcp3DEbfqp0ruDrcWUFM0U_.html There will be more running rig videos how-tos and tips in the future too. If you have a specific question, I’ll try and answer it 😊
Hi Matt! Unfortunately I cannot get in touch with you personally because my English is not sufficient, I am from Germany. I have a few questions about fishing with the running rig, I don't want to make any mistakes: 1. Is it necessary to use a 2 Oz lead or can the weight be higher? 2. I like to use the “Nash Super Flat Pear Swivel Leads (these are very flat). Can I also use these for the running rig or do they have to be round leads? 3. Can I use any standard bobbin/hanger or are they too heavy and the fish might feel something when the line is pulled? For example, I don't have a line clip on my Korum rods. 4. Does this method also work with very large baits, for example 30-35mm boilies/dumbells? 5. Does this method also work at distances of over 200 meters? I hope you can help me, I've never fished with a running rig before. Thank you in advance and keep up your super informative videos! Best regards Max
@@MaxWe-wt3yu Hello Max 🇩🇪 Here are the answers to your questions: 1. For me, 4oz is the maximum. If you need to go higher, it’s best to drop the lead as it’s kinder to the carp. 2. You can use whatever shape lead you want. 3. Don’t worry if you don’t have a line clip, it’s nice to have but not necessary. At short range, it’s nice to use a lightweight bobbin, for medium or long range, a heavy weight bobbin works great because the line is under greater tension. Use whatever you have. 4. Yes, use whatever bait size you want 5. If you’re fishing at 200m range, I’m not sure you can use a running lead. You’ll be using big leads and braid and a 4oz lead is probably going to be moved by wind or current. Unfortunately, running rigs cannot be used everywhere but I hope this helps you in your decisions 😊
I fish exactly like this all the time and it is unbelievably effective. This is a great demonstration of why, great job Matt! It also gives the best bite indications!
I've recently got into carp fishing again with the lead core and the semi-fixed lead in the clip, the ones you buy ready to use. However, as a kid, 25-30 years ago, I always used simple running leads and even used Fairy up liquid lids as bite indicators and caught loads of carp doing this. I did wonder why most carp fishermen used a fixed lead and just assumed it was just a better setup so have done the same as I've just got back into the carping. Think I will be using running leads again and see how I get on after watching this. Its amazing the knowledge available online now, can't be many secret rigs set up anymore.
That’s really interesting to read… The old ways haven’t stopped working, they’ve just been pushed aside and forgotten. Give it a go again, you won’t regret it. There aren’t any secret rigs, on this channel, you’ll find simple, easy to tie and effective rigs: all you need most of the time is the good old hair rig or a mono d rig (and a sharp hook!). FYI, here are my favourite running lead setups with the components I use: Running lead bits for casting: amzn.to/3PvVCc2 Running lead bits for boats/PVA bags: amzn.to/3EwRrXc Running lead bits for weed: amzn.to/3RfIeu4
Excellent Matt. I use mono as standard and for the last year have reverted back to the running rig set up. Massive difference to my fishing. Watching your video has really given me the insight into how this particular set up performs. Confidence ingrained. Cheers 👏
I moved to running rigs 15 years ago. Never looked back. 1oz flat pear swivel. Size 8 barbless. Braid hook length with blow back ring. No kicker. Now you've let everyone know😮
Spot-on article. I never use lead clips partly for the above reason, but also the lead going into the environment. I always use the Carp R Us safety heli rig or a running lead. As for the "tiny" 2oz lead. I mostly use 1.5oz with a tight baitrunner and it's highly effective.
I have always used running leads. At distance, in the margins, tight to features and in open water. I seem to lose very few fish this way, compared to my fishing buddy who uses the Lead Clip system. Thank you for making my point for me Matthew. It's so much harder for a fish to shake the rig. I appreciate your videos.
This is a fantastic video - as a general leisure angler don’t have any carp specific kit but yesterday I fished a day ticket water with a mate who is and ended up just fishing a basic hair rig on a 1.5oz pear running rig. It was carnage, the carp were on the feed and the bites were non-stop BUT every one I connected with was dead centre bottom lip and I didn’t miss a single one. Simple works
Matt, since I looked at your shock & run rig with the rig tube, I haven't used anything else, it works on all the waters I fish, with a ronnie rig, a simple hair rig, or the best rig, is your simple D rig which I use with Dental Floss rather than mono. Great tips and videos, also looking at your water in France for 2025. 👍
Hi Andrew, great to hear mate, I use the mono d myself most of the time now, and there’s a new mono d rig video coming soon which may be of interest 😊 If you have any questions on Beausoleil, you can contact me directly on FB or Insta 👍
Despite having been a fisherman for decades, I only started Carp fishing this year. The running weight method is the only one I have used right from the start. It's a method I've been using for a very long time with diciplines such as fishing for Trout and particularly when Pike fishing. You have however taught me to tighten the free running drag up a bit more. An excellent, clear explanation of how it works and why. Great video. Thank you. 👌🤓👍
I used to do well with running leads on a really silty lake, found they didn't pull your rig/bait into the silt.Also wondered if where the lead plugged it acted like a lead clip because the lead wouldn't slide when a fish picks it up anyway. It's the same principle with feeder fishing, the feeder slides up the line so it's pretty much a running lead.
I don't target carp specifically but used free running rigs (feeders and bombs) with barbless hooks 40 years ago as a teenager, Having had a 30 year break from fishing I started again last October and I still find the least complicated is best.
Matt, have you tried the Pallatrax Gripz hooks yet, been impressed with them as well, good hook hold, no mouth damage, and 9 times out of 10, just drop out in the net.
Hi Andrew, I have no doubt they're effective on certain waters but when I look at a hook, I look at the design of the point. I did a side by side comparison of the Twister and the Pallatrax. The Pallatrax has a short stubby point and the Twisters are longer, sharper and finer which is what makes a difference in my fishing. The pallatrax gripz hooks have a very aggressively inturned point which gives them a narrower gape so I have no doubt the hook holds are very secure. For me, they’re far less likely to catch hold if you’re fishing for carp with hard mouths, which is what I do, and they are too blunt out of the packet. I think they’d be great on a runs water where a short, stubby point can withstand multiple captures. Cheers, Matt
Interesting Matt, we did use them at Lac Rose in franc last year, my lad had 5 fish up to 40lb, I had 3 fish to 47lb, all on wide gape pallatrax hooks, shock and run rig with a slip d & simple hair rig, there were no issues with mouth damage, and all runs were landed, love the vids, so informing, I have recommended to my mates to get on your channel👍
@@yammer69 I don’t know much about Lac Rose, in my experience it’s not necessarily size related. It has a lot to do with the nature of the lake bed. Our place has lots of granite and quartz and it makes the carp's mouth very tough and unless your hooks are razor sharp you’ll just get spat out all week long. The softer the lake bed, the softer the carp’s mouths are which makes them catchable on a wider range of hook designs. At the end of the day it’s horses for courses 👍 Thanks very much for the support mate, new video out on Sunday 😊
Honestly, my fishing buddy put me onto you, I’ve digested everything. Even the moon hooklinks. Going back to basics, free running or inline leads, simple setups, baiting accuracy and watercraft, I’ve caught more in two sessions than I did all last season. Ok, I only went out 6 times last season. But I’ve only been out twice this year. Even caught a grassy. 18lb. Don’t get me wrong, specific times need more specific approaches. But by and large, the rule of “keep it as simple as you can for as long as you can” is something that’s got me enjoying it all and landing fish again. So much so, twice in a day visit this season, I had carp taking the bait before I could even setting the bobbins.
I have been using a semi-tight clutch for tench after you first mentioned this. I find great hooking and the fish don't have a chance to get momentum. The elasticity in the line just drives the hook in and often they stop as they are not used to it. I have had a couple of carp with that and I find it really helps stop them from plowing into the pads. I have seen newcomers fish with far too light a clutch or bait runner setting and the carp are across the pond at high speed.
That's great mate, if there are pads or weed then fishing with semi tight clutch is even more important, as you say, you have control them from the off.
I only use a 1 oz led and have plenty of success you definitely don't need a heavy lead just a good hair rig set up I learned from one of his videos if you set the hook up correctly with boilie on if you drag it across your hand if the hook turns and digs into your hand its set up correctly if it turns away from the skin it isn't , just from that I never miss a bite and the hooks always set correctly
I've been following you for a few years and have started to move away from lead clips as I find the inline set up where the hooklink pops out the lead with a shake of the head lands more fish. Obviously lead clips still are in my box as with weed there essential. But since my lake started to dye the water I'm using inline free running set up. However since watching this I'll be looking at keeping my clutch a lot tighter as I can see I let to much line out. Thanks Matt. Another great and insightful video.
Wow! I knew it stretched a bit but the amount you showed was far more than I expected? I Much prefer a running rig and a lot more venues are insisting on them now.
I've used your shock and run set up to great effect but without really pushing the ring onto the tail rubber. I find the thump of the cast and hitting the clip gives enough to get the desired affect.
I have been wanting to implement running rigs into my fishing but I am not quite sure what components you use maybe you have a video already on your channel somewhere that I have missed. But exactly how you have in this video looks great!
Hi mate, In this video, I show a couple of different options so I’m not sure which one you are referring to exactly. We haven't done a full video (yet!) on the swivel based running rig that I demonstrate later in the video but here’s a link to our Amazon shop which lists the products I use for that system: amzn.to/3PvVCc2 All the videos on this channel are variations on the running leads theme, some have a shock effect, some don’t. Here are the links to the videos you can watch which include running leads: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/pSjT2wPKtTw/v-deo.html. All the best, Matt
Great video, yet again. Starting back in to carp fishing in 20 years. Will be Passing on the lead clips back to a running rig as used before, albiet a inline lead. Will be trying some of your rigs.
Hi, I’ve recently started carp fishing and just by watching a couple of your videos I know this is a great channel for me to learn from. I’m keen to know whether you have a video whereby it shows what terminal tackle it takes and how to tie the specific running rig in question? The sheer amount of gear and variety of gear is mind boggling for a new comer to carp fishing it was much easier with a waggler, weights and some maggots 😂
Hi David, glad the videos can help you on your journey 👍 I totally understand how confusing modern carping can be! If you’re looking for a bare bones simple mono rig with a running ledger then I cover it all in this video: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.htmlsi=ZckDXt14h_6dyQg9 There will be more running rig videos in the future to make it as simple as possible 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks so much! What I’m confused about so far is which leader to use that is lead core free, hope that’s even a thing as many waters I fish are no lead core so far and I like the idea of a running rig. Thanks again
@@DTaz9 Leaders in any form are often banned, some waters will ban leadcore only, in which case a lead free leader is an option. The safe bet is to use rig tubing (that’s the version on the video link I sent you). If you can use lead free leader, I recommend the Nash Cling on in 40lbs. I’ve done this video on leaders: ua-cam.com/video/WiqE4u35MK8/v-deo.html
I'm using the Nash running lead clips with a size 8. When the line tightens enough the running clip locks. What do you think of these Matt? Using tiger nut if in open water due to large numbers of bream.
Watch the video I made on the Nash run clip here: ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.htmlsi=Oux8V8RYX8J6NVcN It’s a useful product for certain situations and it works well. I’ve never had any luck using tigers to avoid the bream. Bream eat anything!
I switched to the running assembly last year and I am very satisfied. Thanks !!! Now in the winter at the beginning of the season it has been good for me to use a smaller PVA bag which I have been using with in line lead. What do you think about using, short rig about 10cm, 2oz lead, tied to a running rig system and all in a PVA bag? Thank you for your opinion. Pavel Karasek
Hi Pavel, yes that’s spot on 👍 I did a full video on how I set this up here: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.htmlsi=_2Vy64m46ImpgLuj Hope you find it useful
Very nice video Matt. We all can talk long about the two setups but don’t know exactly what happens underwater. So it’s useless to say which system catches more carp. They both catch carp. The disadvantage for me, is that the lead can become stuck underwater in a snag.
If I'm fishing near rocks or in an area where's there's risk of the lead getting stuck, I still fish with a running lead but with a breakaway system, for example a rotten bottom.
Hi Matt. This is a fantastic video. I have watched it many times and learned lots from it as I do from all your videos. You make a great informative video and I enjoy every one you post. I have used running rigs in the past but always resorted back to my usual setup as I’ve never really given them a chance. I have swapped all my rods to running rigs now to use them in anger. I do have a question though; when using a running rig does it matter how long the hook length is as the lead doesn’t come in to play as such like a lead clip or should I be using a certain length? Simon.
Hi Simon, okay, great! Thanks for the feedback. I mostly use 6 inch rigs with my running rigs. As you say I want the rig to react quickly because I’m not relying on the weight of the lead to hook the carp. That’s down to the elasticity of the mono and a semi tight clutch 👍
Great video. Could there be a similar video regarding braid? I recently moved over to braided mainline, and a good video going over the basics of using braid (from casting technique to knots and everything in between). I've been following the steps such as wetting the spool, ensuring that when spooling up everything is kept tight and all that jazz, however I am still battling with wind knots. My kit is as listed below: Shimano TX1 - 13ft 3.5lb tc Okuma CB80 reel Backing is 15lb mono Braid 20lb Shock leader 40lb mono
Hi mate, In my experience, the number 1 cause of wind knots with braid is overfilling the spool. You need to underfill the spool by at least 2mm down from the lip to avoid wind knots. Give it a go, see if that helps. Another thought, 20lb braid sounds very thin, you’ll only be getting a knot strength of half that number. The thinnest braid I’ve fished with was 40lb and that was on a massive lake casting from the shore. I might be wrong, your braid may be underrated. Cheers, Matt
Carp fishing video, for sure. Could also be titled 'how not to waste a single minute of youtube videoing'. So much packed useful info packed into 16 minutes without it feeling rushed or unexplained! Absolutely top notch. The reel with the blue detailing, that's a Nash reel, right? Is it small for a 6k? I only fish small venues, so don't need big reels for range and I've got small hands, so small reels are far more comfortable. I was thinking of a 5k sized one, but this might be a decent bet too?
Hi Chris, thanks ever so much for your continued support 😊 Yes that’s a Nash LR 6000. I’ve been using it on my 10ft, 3.5lb leading rod. I like it. Good line lay, very smooth and it’s lightweight and compact. The perfect partner for 9 or 10ft rods. It’s not a bait runner reel. It’s only got a front drag. That’s why it is quite small and compact. The drag is a bit slow if you want to go from fully locked up to free spool (takes a few turns) but it’s no biggie. They don’t come with spare spools either. You have to buy them. Certainly worth looking at based on the type of fishing you are doing. I wouldn't consider going less than 6k for carp fishing TBH. 5k is more for coarse angling. Cheers, Matt.
Hello from South Korea Mattew, after watching the video I do understand the whole running rig concept. However, I feel that running rig only put more hook pressure when it is pulled away. You have demonstrated line pull test but fish aren't always pulling away. If you grab the hook and move anywhere other then straight away, it will get very little hook pressure due to line ecstaticity and running rig system. So I am wondering how can it be effective when a carp pick up and run toward you? it has little to no pressure to hook a fish. Thank you for your content, Mate!
Hello 🇰🇷 I understand what you’re saying. You are forgetting the huge amount of water that is pressing down on the line. It’s difficult to demonstrate in a video, but this pressure is real and, together with the drag created by a free running rig, it is enough to hook a carp coming back towards you, as long as the hook is sharp. I’ve caught many carp that were swimming back towards me on a running rig 😊
Great video. Have used running leads for years home and abroad to great effect. Unfortunately my new syndicate dictates that the lead has to be dropped on the take so I've had to use a different set up 😢
Hi Matt, great vid, with all the latest vids with light hook links, will you be changing the 35lb hook link rule? Ie using IQ d-rig in 35lb fluro is a bit over the top?
Hi mate, as we have cats to 135lbs, I’m keeping the rules as they are. I’ve only ever tested light hooklinks at Beausoleil during the winter when the cats are not active. Cheers, Matt
With free running rigs if you dont use around 4oz of lead its a judder rig meaning it will feel resistnace before you have any indication unless fish tight line in the margin it will have pixk the hookbait up everytime it shakes its head the lead will judder down the line and usually the lead will be off the deck leadcore leader leadless leader will create friction unlike a mono or fluro
Hi Matt, you are doing excelent job!!!. Your videos is focused mainly for explanation, not selling, I LOVE IT. My question is : on our lake, I catch one rod up to 60m and the other at the 100m limit with a helicopter assembly. Can a running rig also be used for longer distances? What is the maximum distance you use running rig with monofilament line? thank you and have a nice day. Pavel Karásek
Hi Pavel, thanks for the feedback 😊 Most of my fishing at range is done by casting and I would happily fish running rigs at 100m - 120m. Helicopter rigs are often used at longer distances because they are more resistant to tangles but as long as you use a fairly thick hooklink material then you shouldn't have any issues. I use the 30lbs (0.50) or the 40lbs (0.60) Nash heavy duty snag leader as my hooklink when casting rigs to the horizon. It’s very robust, semi-stiff and so much cheaper than fluorocarbon. Rigs are either mono hair or mono d for tangle resistance and simplicity. You just don’t need anything else! Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler I'm in the process of changing my fishing style, a lot of your thoughts confirm my assumptions. The problem was that even though I was doing some things my own way, generally speaking, I couldn't leave behind the established practices and technical designs of fishing in my country. Your video and photos have definitely made a difference, I'll manage to try a few things this season, but I can't wait to see next!!! Thank you again, Pavel Karásek
Well done and well described. But what about the case when fish pics up and goes the direction to the bank? I love your setup when the running ring with lead is pressed a little on the rubber tail and drops after the shake
Hi there, yes, it works also when the carp comes back towards you because the lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline. This has happened to me several times this year alone and I’ve landed every one of them. I know some people like the shock effect on some of my other rigs but now, I only fish with full running rigs and they work great for me.
Hey Matt, great video but I'm still confused how this would work if the carp swims toward you initially. In the case of a drop back the clutch is never activated and so the most force you could possibly hope for is the weight of the lead (which won't even take effect in full because it will slide down the line). And even in the case when the carp runs away, 50cm (or probably a lot farther if you're fishing more than 30m) is a long way to wait to hook them, especially in winter when they are sluggish and not moving a whole lot. How would this still work? Thanks!
Hi mate, I understand your concerns but there’s no reason to worry. I’ve fished through the winters for the last 13 years for some large and very clued up carp with very hard mouths using nothing more than inline running leads and they work really well. The vast majority of my customers also use running rigs and if they weren't catching I wouldn't have a business lol. Don’t forget that the carp will instinctively pull against the direction of tension initially. This is when the hooking is done. They do occasionally bolt back towards me but the rig has done the bizz and the running lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline and holds that hook in just great. It doesn't matter which way they swim, a running lead will hook them and be incredibly difficult for them to deal with. Hook sharpness is absolutely everything of course and in the winter I’ll drop to a hand sharpened barbless size 8 or even a 10 to maximise my chances. Hope that helps, Matt.
The Prologic Wind Blade Bite Indicator gives me a massive advantage over most other types of bite indicators. You won't miss a single back drop with them, because they are spring loaded. You get a huge travel distance compared with a bobbin or swinger. You can even fish with your rod vertically. I've never understood why you dumped leads on the bottom in the UK. I live in Canada and I wouldn't dream of dropping leads in our waters. It's pollution, and leads cost an arm and a leg. I use running rigs all the time. My lead is a 3 oz inline spring feeder I use for packbait (panko, oats, cream corn, nibblets, and commercial pineapple syrup). The rig is a a Slip D rig with pop-ups. My main line is braid, and I attach a ten foot mono leader for stretch. I make a small loop knot on the mono going inside the lead. That gives it just a bit of resistance before carp can shake the lead off to slide on the line.
Hi there, I’ve used a basic running lead setup with leads up to 115gr at 100m range and it works great. The further out you fish, the worse your bite indication will be with any system, but this gives you the best indication that I know of. Cheers, Matt
well i am booked in to my local specimen lake in 2 weeks in carrs Stockton and the rules state free running lead only which prefer as i hate the idea of dumping a lead every time not good for the water and it costs money every time this video has helped me so much this is the exact rig i will be using has to 15LB main line though for the rules brilliant video really well explained thank you i belive you have a place in france is that right
Hi mate, I hate dumping leads too and I've been fishing running leads for over 10 years. Plenty of running rig designs on my channel. All the best with your session 🎣. Yes, I have a lake in France, here's the website if you want to have a look: www.frenchcarpandcats.com 😊
Never understood rigs that eject the lead at the drop of a hat... seems just like a waste of leads and a sale opportunity for the suppliers... by all means, use a rig that can shed the lead in the case of snap-offs to save fish being snagged... Now, I'm irish and carp fishing doesn't happen much over here so I'm not at all an expert on carping... but I'm an avid pike angler and the same issues apply somewhat... same when I fish for tench "carp-style" ... Good vid !! 😎👍☘🍺
A standard paper clip makes a cheap safety clip for the lead. It's strong enough to withstand even relatively hard casting with all but the biggest leads and you can still bend a bit of a tag into them to make them a bit stronger etc. At the same time, they're safely opened with a few lbs pressure on standard carp or pike gear in the event that a lead should get snagged or whatever.
@@billcollins6705 Hmm I never thought of using a paper clip! Good to hear it's working for you. I can see how that would work for sure, I think I’d still probably just use some lightweight mono to make a breakaway connection if I need to. The plastic ring I used in this video breaks at about 10lb of force which suits my public water fishing as I’m using 20lb Nash Bullet most of the time. Thanks for the idea though. It’s certainly an option to consider. Cheers, Matt.
If I fish on clean bottom with not much weed or uneven bottom between me and the hook, running rig is my go to rig now a days. I've caught good on it, especially targeting grass carp which is notoriously hard in the mouth. When I tried it the first time I really had a hard time getting my mind to believe it but I actually had fish on it first session and after that I have no doubt in my mind that it is better in most cases, if I can get away with it. I so far only used it on hard boottom. Using it on silt and in weed etc is proberly not a good idea what so ever I suspect. You are going through some of the mechanics in play in the video. What I personally believe is the outmost important one is the lines drag on the bottom. I fish mine slack, with flourocarbon and 1.5oz pear leads. I have the clutch as hard as I dare but the line is pretty much on the bottom from my tips to where the hook is (ideally) so when the fish takes my bait it can travel a little bit before the clutch comes in to play and still, they rip those rods like mental so they are decently hooked even before I see it I suspect and that must be the drag of the line. They take the bait, after a while notice some thing is wrong and tries to go away but everywhere they go gives drag and ultimately they are on the clutch soon enough. I don't know how rare running rigs are in the UK but in Sweden where I live and fish I don't think that many anglers use it. I think if more people dared to try it, more would use it as standard.
Method feeder carp fishing with an auto hooking action from the bead, then release to a running/inline rig....... That's catching carp for me and most of the times it's a screaming take (clutch set at 8-10 pounds)....
Hi Matt, You described the running leads effectiveness with the strech of mono. What is your view on the running rig with braid? I am from South Africa and we are mostly fishing for wild carp that hasnt seen to many rigs. Is the running rig still the most effective even if carp isn't rig shy. Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hi mate, I do a lot of river carp fishing for wild fish that see much less angling pressure and I guarantee that running rigs are still the most effective method. I used to use braid but I don’t anymore (for reasons of fish safety). If you need to fish braid, I would always incorporate a rotten bottom connection to the running lead that the fish can break in the worst case scenario. Here are some videos that may help you: Rotten bottom: ua-cam.com/video/pSjT2wPKtTw/v-deo.html Using lead clips vs running leads on the river: ua-cam.com/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/v-deo.html My ‘wild carp’ rig: ua-cam.com/users/shortsCh032Nsihcc?feature=share
Brilliant piece of practical and informative work from a true thinking angler AND based on results. Too much of what we see today is unproven marketing hype, “folklore” as Jim Gibbinson used to say, and Matt cuts through all that. I would be really interested to know Matt’s views on fishing in heavy weed I.e. barbless hook security with a ball of weed preventing direct contact and dropping the lead in that situation, maybe the new Nash run clip is part of the answer.
Hi Adrian, thanks for the support 👍 The Nash run clip would be my first choice on a weeded venue, unless I have to fish solid PVA bags (outline inline in that case and dump on the take). I’ve never used barbless in weed because since I’ve switched, I haven’t been to a weedy lake. However, the 7 year study that I quoted in the barbless vs micro barb video included heavily weeded waters and they found that barbless is the only way to go from a fish safety standpoint. Cheers, Matt
Hi Matthew, I really like this video and the running rig style of fishing. I recently started carp fishing but before I watched these videos about semi-fixed reels I bought some lovely vintage bait runners. I love them but the bait runner's strongest setting is only 1lb in strength, is this enough to pull off this elastic free running style? Let me know your thoughts and what might be the best way to fish running rigs if you're forced to fish with bait runners.
Hi mate, if you can set your bait runner to achieve 1lb of force then that’s plenty enough to hook most carp. Don’t forget that you don’t actually have to use the bait runner facility at all. Just adjust the front drag knob to give you the amount that you feel you need. Please bear in mind that if you are not used to fishing with a semi-tight clutch, you need to use a really robust bank stick setup, with rear gripping rod rests, and point the rod (tip slightly up) at the bait. I’d hate you to lose a rod when trying this for the first time. Watch this video on rod setup tips: ua-cam.com/video/j_NSmA2CtQQ/v-deo.htmlsi=5FOW4f1XODHpjGQ5 (btw, as you’re starting out, I now offer one-on-one tuition by video call. If that’s of interest, let me know).
@@matthewcollinsangler Excellent, I had noticed that you'd mentioned about the rear grips and will invest in some. Any suggestion about a specific brand if you don't mind me asking? I have a 2 rod prologic pod.
Hi mate, I’ve used both and I’ve shown both types on my channel, and, at this stage, I can honestly say that for my fishing, the shock effect doesn’t really add much. I used to believe it did, but I’ve been fishing with pure running rigs for the last 3 years and I don’t believe I would have caught more with a shock effect 😊
@@matthewcollinsanglerI see, in that case I will stick to running rigs. I gave these a try for the first time a few days ago after seeing this video and hooked 2 fish with 2 takes, thanks mate!! One other question if you don’t mind - in my mind, using a heavier lead 3-5oz would make more sense as then the clutch would be engaged at all times… with a 2oz in the case where the fish swims towards you, the lead will be picked up and slide on the bottom, meaning the lead will not act as a stong pivot and the clutch would not be engaged as well as line tension will be lost. What do you think about using heavy leads to ensure a stong anchor / pivot? Cheers mate
@@Era-DK I’ve done some testing on this and I found that it doesn’t make a difference. I choose the lead size based on other factors (range, nature of the lakebed). I mostly use a 3oz lead because it suits the fishing I’m doing but there are situations when I know a 1oz lead is a better choice so I’ll use that with absolute confidence. Don’t forget that the weight of the water on the line creates a ‘hidden hooking effect’ and helps to drive the hook home, even when the carp swims back towards me (like the takes I had in the video).
It’s rare but it happens from time to time. When it does, the bobbin usually slams up to the blank first (that’s them hooking themselves against the semi tight clutch), then, if they swim back towards me, the tension goes out of the line and the bobbin falls to the floor. The running lead does an incredibly good job of holding the hook in place during this rapid sequence so I hardly ever suffer a hook pull thanks to the elasticity of the mono.
Hello Matthew, can you give some advice please? I went fishing for carp and i had a lot of bites, but I lost more carp than I managed to bring to the shore. I lost most of them close to the shore, what do you think would be the explanation?
So you’re losing them at the netting stage? This has to be hook sharpness (or lack of). Carp hook damage very easily. I use one hook per cast! If you are fishing with the same hook over and over again then this is the result. It may seem over the top to change your hooks so frequently but it’s quite literally the fast track to success. Spend all your money on hooks and as little as possible on everything else. If that doesn't solve the problem then it’s your rig. Just use a basic mono hair or mono D rig. It’s all I use 99% of the time. I’ve done a full video on hook pulls: ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.html
Because braid has little or no stretch, the clutch comes into play very quickly and the fish is hooked quickly but because there’s no stretch, there is a higher risk of hook pulls so it’s always a good idea to add some stretch back into the system with a length of thick monofilament leader material at the end of the braided mainline. 2m - 3m is enough but 5 - 10m is more normal.
Hi Aaron, I have experimented with triggerlink, and of course it works and I’ve caught carp. But because of the huge amount of elasticity in mono, I don’t feel the triggerlink is making a difference in my fishing. If it’s working for you, then great mate.
@@matthewcollinsangler hi Matt this is getting confusing mate how did you get the bore bead over the other how that happening u definitely to do a step by step with product and how to set it up as there different bead and other go over other bead don’t get it
@@bertharding1987 I’m sorry my previous answer was misleading. I forgot that in this video I’m using various different types of running lead setups. This is not a how to video. This is a video that explains how running rigs work. To make a running rig you can take anywhere, here’s a detailed tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/H733RZER094/v-deo.html
Hi mate, it all depends on the exact type of running rig but if you are talking about a swivel based running lead then yes a stiff material is the way to go. If you fancy saving some money, watch this video on why I don’t use fluoro: ua-cam.com/video/5GzS0Ae-tUA/v-deo.htmlsi=4qc7VEdZ3rU9iae2
Excellent video Matt. Happy new year keep the videos coming very Interesting as always. Question if you don't mind mate thinking about leads what size weight do you think a. 5lb tc rod could handle. Please any ideas buddy
So I was asked by a mate of mine who is planning on using 1 for a little sea fishing and cat fishing scratching for a bite. He's going traveling around the coast and fresh water of the uk
@@johnmichael1220 Ah right, well that makes a bit more sense. Sea fishing is completely different to carp fishing so you really need to ask a sea angler TBH mate. For all I know you can use 1lb of lead on a 5lb rod. Not a clue mate, sorry.
@@matthewcollinsangler yes mate it's more of casting weight that a spod rod holds with your knowledge thought I'd ask but I would be looking to asking a sea angler also. Not many have a guess on a spod rod casting weight. And never handled a cat fish so new on me. My mate doesn't deal with the internet hense why I am looking to ask a few people.. Cheers Matt happy new year to you and the family Tight lines
Although I appreciate all the different rig setups.... I only use a sliding rig for ledgering....using either a sliding swivel lead clip or direct inline leads.... depending on whether the bed is soft or solid....simply because it's always worked with a simple sliding D hook presentation!..cheap cheerful and very few dropped fish ....also I personally I dont like to drop and waste leads 😂
Hi Gary, TBH I hardly use coated braid in my fishing. I mostly use standard mono (not fluoro) from 0.30 to 0.60 diameter when I’m casting. Mono is very tangle resistant and much cheaper than braid or coated braid. Your mainline makes an excellent and very cheap hooklink material so that would be my first recommendation. Watch this video for a very simple but effective mono rig that can be cast with confidence: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.htmlsi=WuVEPR5s23ee1hZq If I am casting braid then I would always hit the clip and feel the lead down but this is not easy to do (it took me years to master!) If you are worried about tangles and you want to use braid then I would fish an inline running lead inside a solid PVA bag. This should totally eliminate the risk of tangles. Here’s a full video on this method: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.htmlsi=V1uTaVB8pnDajzib Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt
Hi Wayne, TBH it all depends on how good you are at casting. I’d be happy to cast this up to 60m, hit the clip and feel the lead down and I’d be very confident that it’s fishing effectively for me. However if hitting the clip is something you struggle with then I wouldn't use a supple braided hooklink like I do in this video. I’ve cast simple, running rigs just like this using 0.45 mono up to 90m on many occasions and this combination works well. If you're worried about tangles then basic mono rigs are definitely the way to go and I’d happily use 0.50 or even 0.60 mono depending on the situation. With regards to stability in flight and loss of accuracy, it’s not something that worries me. I use 115g lead and that carries it out to where I need it easy enough. Forget hitting the clip at that range, just fire it out there and tighten down. Do a few test casts to make sure everything is working for you. Best of luck, Matt.
Hi Mark, ah it’s kind of my own! It’s made up of various bits because I like the way they work together and they do the job I need them to do. The heli sleeve is made by Nash. It’s normally used for heli rigs (obviously) but I like it as a run rig buffer bead. It comes with a bead which I don’t use. The plastic ring is made by Fox. Unfortunately you can’t buy the ring by itself. It comes as part of the Fox run ring kit but I don’t use the Fox buffer bead as I prefer the Nash one! There are various ways of doing it. It’s all about finding something that works for you in your fishing. Here’s a list of the bits I use for this setup: amzn.to/3PvVCc2 (this is an Amazon affiliate link, anything you buy through this link will give us a small commission, price to you is the same) Cheers, Matt.
Hi mate, I wouldn’t use braided mainline with a conventional running rig because braid is horrendous for tangling, strong and difficult to break and it can become dangerous. If you want to use braided mainline with a running rig I would either use the Nash run clip system (ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.html) or create a rotten bottom connection in between the lead and the run ring. I use the Fox plastic rings that break at 10 lbs of force so they’d work or you can make your own with some light mono. The Nash run clip works great but you’ll find you’ll lose the lead every time on the take with braid anyway so you may as well just use a lead clip with a tail rubber lightly pushed on. I avoid using braided mainline due to safety concerns but in some instances there’s not much choice. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
Yes, it works also when the carp comes back towards you because the lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline. This has happened to me several times this year alone and I’ve landed every one of them.
I’d happily use a running lead system over light weed but I’d keep the lead as light as possible and also choose a thin smooth lead such as a distance lead or a tournament style lead. These pull through weed easier. You don’t want a dumpy style of lead. The Nash run clip system is worth considering in weed but it really depends on how bad the weed is and what type. Only test fishing would tell you whether it’s a good idea or not. Worse case scenario (heavy weed) I’d fish an outline inline style and dump the lead on the take. I hate doing it and it’s very very rare that I have to fish like this but on some waters, it’s the only way. Outline inline offers far more for the weed to hold onto. I would avoid a lead clip at all costs. Cheers, Matt.
Hi mate, if I’m fishing a really close range (as you are) then my line would be very slack. Hanging vertically down from the tip to keep the mainline away from any carp moving through the area. I would fish individual bank sticks driven securely into the ground and point the rod tip slightly up from the horizontal. Gripping rear rod rest is essential. Tighten the clutch to deliver at least 1lb of force on the take. This will ensure they are well hooked before you even lift the rod. Test the security of your setup beforehand. Get it wrong and you’ll lose the rod! Good luck, Matt.
Will do. I'm hitting a new spot tomorrow and will give it a try. I want to sincerely thank you for all your videos. You give so much fantastic, well thought out information. I'm still pretty new to this style of fishing, but I've learned a lot from you
@@bigbearddahuzi1036 Fantastic to hear, thank you. If you’re fairly new to carp fishing and you like my channel, I also offer one-on-one tuition by video call now. If that’s of interest, let me know 😊
Ot was pnly recently after joining an angling club and meeting the regulars on the lake that the baliff explained what a lead clip was and i expclaimed that dropping a lead every bite is not my style / philosophy at all. Ofcourse in hindsight the leads are probably non toxic but still. I agree with not using bolt rigs because i never did. I always use a running rig because its very simple. Will start using a chod /helicopter as it seemed to work but my buddy recons its easy for fish to spit it out
Dropping leads in a lake is definitely not a good idea and should be avoided at all costs. You're right, running rigs are simple, have always worked and always will! They can also be adapted to different fishing situations and you'll find different designs on this channel 😊
Hi there, best way to create a semi tight clutch with a bait runner is to not use the baitrunner facility. Just carefully set the clutch (front or rear depending on the reel) to semi tight. If you are a relative newcomer to the sport you need to be very sure of the security of your rod setup. Cheap, flimsy bankware that is too weak to be securely driven into hard ground is an absolute no (especially in winter!) Err on the side of caution when you test your bankside setup. Do not hold the rod when you do a pull test as it defeats the object. Get it wrong and you’ll lose your rod. I’ve seen it happen multiple times to guests here at my lake. Here are a couple more videos on this topic that might help you: ua-cam.com/video/ECd6MJhUW58/v-deo.html ua-cam.com/video/AGuXj4xKDow/v-deo.html Cheers, Matt
Hi Alan, I have used them. The reason why I don't anymore is that I find the C clip attachment for the lead broke too easily for me, especially on a savage take. I've also tried the C clip from Thinking Anglers and had the same problem. I find the plastic run ring works for a lot of my fishing, but I've also used a rotten bottom connection with lightweight mono if necessary. Cheers, Matt
As a running inline lead, yes absolutely. If you want to use an inline lead, you must remove the plastic insert from it, cover the swivel with a tail rubber to create a tapered buffer bead. It's highly effective.
I assume that you leave the plastic insert inside. That can work on a lead free leader but I wouldn't do it with tubing as you're expecting the lead to push the rig tubing up and it's the rig tubing that becomes the sliding element - worst case, it could be a safety risk for the carp.
Running leads work great with light/medium sized leads. I mostly use 3oz but anything between 1 - 4 oz works great. I wouldn't go above 4oz as that’s a lot of weight to have swinging about when you are playing a carp. Cheers, Matt.
Not necessarily. You can fish running rigs with a tight line, slack line or semi slack, or back leads. What’s important is that you have a very solid bankside setup and fish a semi tight clutch. With a running rig, I’m not creating the bolt effect with the lead but I am creating a much bigger bolt effect with my clutch ie it’s the clutch that’s doing the hooking of the carp.
I’ve always fished feeder and lead on a running paternoster rig I don’t understand where all this lead dropping rigs etc started I think it’s a terrible idea basically littering the lake bed and wasteful ! Least on a running paternoster if you do loose a fish due to line breaking it drops the weight still can’t see why you would want to fish ant other way
📳 I now offer one-on-one tuition by video call. If that’s of interest, contact me directly.
If you’ve never used a free running rig, then I totally understand how difficult it is to wrap your head around how they work and why they’re so effective. If you catch carp with lead clips, it’s going to sound crazy if I say that I never use them in my fishing. This video will show the difference in the way the carp are hooked with a lead clip vs a running rig. I’ve heard from plenty of anglers telling me their switch to a running rig has changed their fishing and I hope to hear many more such success stories!
Hiya mate, I do use running rigs but would like some more tips!
@@jasonwestmorland2278 OK, so I’ve done a few different running rig designs over the last few years, you’ll find them in this playlist: ua-cam.com/play/PLHQUkuWLN6mcp3DEbfqp0ruDrcWUFM0U_.html
There will be more running rig videos how-tos and tips in the future too.
If you have a specific question, I’ll try and answer it 😊
Hi Matt! Unfortunately I cannot get in touch with you personally because my English is not sufficient, I am from Germany. I have a few questions about fishing with the running rig, I don't want to make any mistakes:
1. Is it necessary to use a 2 Oz lead or can the weight be higher?
2. I like to use the “Nash Super Flat Pear Swivel Leads (these are very flat). Can I also use these for the running rig or do they have to be round leads?
3. Can I use any standard bobbin/hanger or are they too heavy and the fish might feel something when the line is pulled? For example, I don't have a line clip on my Korum rods.
4. Does this method also work with very large baits, for example 30-35mm boilies/dumbells?
5. Does this method also work at distances of over 200 meters?
I hope you can help me, I've never fished with a running rig before. Thank you in advance and keep up your super informative videos! Best regards Max
@@MaxWe-wt3yu Hello Max 🇩🇪
Here are the answers to your questions:
1. For me, 4oz is the maximum. If you need to go higher, it’s best to drop the lead as it’s kinder to the carp.
2. You can use whatever shape lead you want.
3. Don’t worry if you don’t have a line clip, it’s nice to have but not necessary. At short range, it’s nice to use a lightweight bobbin, for medium or long range, a heavy weight bobbin works great because the line is under greater tension. Use whatever you have.
4. Yes, use whatever bait size you want
5. If you’re fishing at 200m range, I’m not sure you can use a running lead. You’ll be using big leads and braid and a 4oz lead is probably going to be moved by wind or current. Unfortunately, running rigs cannot be used everywhere but I hope this helps you in your decisions 😊
The application of engineering principles in these videos is outstanding.
Thanks very much, great to hear that feedback 😊
I fish exactly like this all the time and it is unbelievably effective. This is a great demonstration of why, great job Matt! It also gives the best bite indications!
Yes absolutely!
I love the analytical way you think about things Mathew!😊
Thank you 😊
I've recently got into carp fishing again with the lead core and the semi-fixed lead in the clip, the ones you buy ready to use. However, as a kid, 25-30 years ago, I always used simple running leads and even used Fairy up liquid lids as bite indicators and caught loads of carp doing this. I did wonder why most carp fishermen used a fixed lead and just assumed it was just a better setup so have done the same as I've just got back into the carping. Think I will be using running leads again and see how I get on after watching this. Its amazing the knowledge available online now, can't be many secret rigs set up anymore.
That’s really interesting to read… The old ways haven’t stopped working, they’ve just been pushed aside and forgotten. Give it a go again, you won’t regret it. There aren’t any secret rigs, on this channel, you’ll find simple, easy to tie and effective rigs: all you need most of the time is the good old hair rig or a mono d rig (and a sharp hook!).
FYI, here are my favourite running lead setups with the components I use:
Running lead bits for casting: amzn.to/3PvVCc2
Running lead bits for boats/PVA bags: amzn.to/3EwRrXc
Running lead bits for weed: amzn.to/3RfIeu4
Excellent Matt. I use mono as standard and for the last year have reverted back to the running rig set up. Massive difference to my fishing. Watching your video has really given me the insight into how this particular set up performs. Confidence ingrained. Cheers 👏
Wonderful to hear Mark 👍
I moved to running rigs 15 years ago. Never looked back. 1oz flat pear swivel. Size 8 barbless. Braid hook length with blow back ring. No kicker.
Now you've let everyone know😮
Haha, I'm just here trying to give anglers options and something to think about 😃
Spot-on article. I never use lead clips partly for the above reason, but also the lead going into the environment. I always use the Carp R Us safety heli rig or a running lead. As for the "tiny" 2oz lead. I mostly use 1.5oz with a tight baitrunner and it's highly effective.
Spot on approach 😊
I have always used running leads. At distance, in the margins, tight to features and in open water. I seem to lose very few fish this way, compared to my fishing buddy who uses the Lead Clip system. Thank you for making my point for me Matthew. It's so much harder for a fish to shake the rig. I appreciate your videos.
Great to hear it's working well for you too 👍
This is a fantastic video - as a general leisure angler don’t have any carp specific kit but yesterday I fished a day ticket water with a mate who is and ended up just fishing a basic hair rig on a 1.5oz pear running rig. It was carnage, the carp were on the feed and the bites were non-stop BUT every one I connected with was dead centre bottom lip and I didn’t miss a single one. Simple works
Absolutely, and that’s all I talk about on this channel, keep your fishing simple and focus on the details that matter 👍
I have been fishing since a liitle boy age 38 now but i am only just getting into carp fishing. i am learning loads from your channel many thanks
Great to hear, enjoy the journey 🎣
Matt, since I looked at your shock & run rig with the rig tube, I haven't used anything else, it works on all the waters I fish, with a ronnie rig, a simple hair rig, or the best rig, is your simple D rig which I use with Dental Floss rather than mono. Great tips and videos, also looking at your water in France for 2025. 👍
Hi Andrew, great to hear mate, I use the mono d myself most of the time now, and there’s a new mono d rig video coming soon which may be of interest 😊 If you have any questions on Beausoleil, you can contact me directly on FB or Insta 👍
Thank you Matt
Regards
Andy@@matthewcollinsangler
i started using your shock/run rig this year and my results have increased .
Great to hear Chris 👍
Despite having been a fisherman for decades, I only started Carp fishing this year. The running weight method is the only one I have used right from the start. It's a method I've been using for a very long time with diciplines such as fishing for Trout and particularly when Pike fishing. You have however taught me to tighten the free running drag up a bit more. An excellent, clear explanation of how it works and why.
Great video. Thank you. 👌🤓👍
Glad you enjoyed it and got something out of it 👍
hi matt,
we fished with free-running line in the 70s to the mid 80s. many thanks for the clear video. greetings from germany
It worked then and it still works now 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler
yes it is 👍👍👍
I used to do well with running leads on a really silty lake, found they didn't pull your rig/bait into the silt.Also wondered if where the lead plugged it acted like a lead clip because the lead wouldn't slide when a fish picks it up anyway. It's the same principle with feeder fishing, the feeder slides up the line so it's pretty much a running lead.
I don't target carp specifically but used free running rigs (feeders and bombs) with barbless hooks 40 years ago as a teenager, Having had a 30 year break from fishing I started again last October and I still find the least complicated is best.
Simple hair rig will nail them 9/10 like a chod rig it's too many components giving it more of a chance to fail
That's great Robert, the old ways never stop working, they just got forgotten 😊
Thanks
Thanks Anthony 😊
Matt, have you tried the Pallatrax Gripz hooks yet, been impressed with them as well, good hook hold, no mouth damage, and 9 times out of 10, just drop out in the net.
Hi Andrew, I have no doubt they're effective on certain waters but when I look at a hook, I look at the design of the point. I did a side by side comparison of the Twister and the Pallatrax. The Pallatrax has a short stubby point and the Twisters are longer, sharper and finer which is what makes a difference in my fishing. The pallatrax gripz hooks have a very aggressively inturned point which gives them a narrower gape so I have no doubt the hook holds are very secure. For me, they’re far less likely to catch hold if you’re fishing for carp with hard mouths, which is what I do, and they are too blunt out of the packet. I think they’d be great on a runs water where a short, stubby point can withstand multiple captures. Cheers, Matt
Interesting Matt, we did use them at Lac Rose in franc last year, my lad had 5 fish up to 40lb, I had 3 fish to 47lb, all on wide gape pallatrax hooks, shock and run rig with a slip d & simple hair rig, there were no issues with mouth damage, and all runs were landed, love the vids, so informing, I have recommended to my mates to get on your channel👍
@@yammer69 I don’t know much about Lac Rose, in my experience it’s not necessarily size related. It has a lot to do with the nature of the lake bed. Our place has lots of granite and quartz and it makes the carp's mouth very tough and unless your hooks are razor sharp you’ll just get spat out all week long. The softer the lake bed, the softer the carp’s mouths are which makes them catchable on a wider range of hook designs. At the end of the day it’s horses for courses 👍
Thanks very much for the support mate, new video out on Sunday 😊
Look forward to it Matt👍
Honestly, my fishing buddy put me onto you, I’ve digested everything.
Even the moon hooklinks.
Going back to basics, free running or inline leads, simple setups, baiting accuracy and watercraft, I’ve caught more in two sessions than I did all last season.
Ok, I only went out 6 times last season. But I’ve only been out twice this year. Even caught a grassy. 18lb.
Don’t get me wrong, specific times need more specific approaches. But by and large, the rule of “keep it as simple as you can for as long as you can” is something that’s got me enjoying it all and landing fish again.
So much so, twice in a day visit this season, I had carp taking the bait before I could even setting the bobbins.
Really great to hear that feedback and congrats 👍
I have been using a semi-tight clutch for tench after you first mentioned this. I find great hooking and the fish don't have a chance to get momentum. The elasticity in the line just drives the hook in and often they stop as they are not used to it. I have had a couple of carp with that and I find it really helps stop them from plowing into the pads. I have seen newcomers fish with far too light a clutch or bait runner setting and the carp are across the pond at high speed.
That's great mate, if there are pads or weed then fishing with semi tight clutch is even more important, as you say, you have control them from the off.
I went from years of using method inline feed to now using a clip led and mesh bags
I only use a 1 oz led and have plenty of success you definitely don't need a heavy lead just a good hair rig set up I learned from one of his videos if you set the hook up correctly with boilie on if you drag it across your hand if the hook turns and digs into your hand its set up correctly if it turns away from the skin it isn't , just from that I never miss a bite and the hooks always set correctly
I've been following you for a few years and have started to move away from lead clips as I find the inline set up where the hooklink pops out the lead with a shake of the head lands more fish. Obviously lead clips still are in my box as with weed there essential. But since my lake started to dye the water I'm using inline free running set up.
However since watching this I'll be looking at keeping my clutch a lot tighter as I can see I let to much line out.
Thanks Matt. Another great and insightful video.
Fantastic to hear mate 👍
Wow! I knew it stretched a bit but the amount you showed was far more than I expected? I Much prefer a running rig and a lot more venues are insisting on them now.
I've used your shock and run set up to great effect but without really pushing the ring onto the tail rubber. I find the thump of the cast and hitting the clip gives enough to get the desired affect.
Great videos Matthew. Could I ask please what rods and reels do you use please
Thanks mate 👍 My favourite rods and the ones I use the most are Nash Scope 9ft - 3lb. Favourite reels are the Shimano Ultegra xtc.
I have been wanting to implement running rigs into my fishing but I am not quite sure what components you use maybe you have a video already on your channel somewhere that I have missed. But exactly how you have in this video looks great!
Hi mate,
In this video, I show a couple of different options so I’m not sure which one you are referring to exactly. We haven't done a full video (yet!) on the swivel based running rig that I demonstrate later in the video but here’s a link to our Amazon shop which lists the products I use for that system: amzn.to/3PvVCc2
All the videos on this channel are variations on the running leads theme, some have a shock effect, some don’t. Here are the links to the videos you can watch which include running leads: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.html, ua-cam.com/video/pSjT2wPKtTw/v-deo.html.
All the best,
Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt really appreciate this 👍🏼
@@Epicunbuffed No worries mate, if you every want a bit of additional help and advice, I also offer one-on-one tuition by video call now.
My new go to set up , cheers Matt
Cool 👍
Great video, yet again. Starting back in to carp fishing in 20 years. Will be Passing on the lead clips back to a running rig as used before, albiet a inline lead. Will be trying some of your rigs.
Great to hear! The old ways never stopped working, they just got forgotten 😊
One of the best helpful videos I've seen mate. Really taught me a lot. Keep posting! 👍.
Thanks mate, will do 😊
I get good hookups freelining at 20m. Line resistance and clutch does the job.
Hi, I’ve recently started carp fishing and just by watching a couple of your videos I know this is a great channel for me to learn from. I’m keen to know whether you have a video whereby it shows what terminal tackle it takes and how to tie the specific running rig in question? The sheer amount of gear and variety of gear is mind boggling for a new comer to carp fishing it was much easier with a waggler, weights and some maggots 😂
Hi David, glad the videos can help you on your journey 👍 I totally understand how confusing modern carping can be! If you’re looking for a bare bones simple mono rig with a running ledger then I cover it all in this video: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.htmlsi=ZckDXt14h_6dyQg9
There will be more running rig videos in the future to make it as simple as possible 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks so much! What I’m confused about so far is which leader to use that is lead core free, hope that’s even a thing as many waters I fish are no lead core so far and I like the idea of a running rig. Thanks again
@@DTaz9 Leaders in any form are often banned, some waters will ban leadcore only, in which case a lead free leader is an option. The safe bet is to use rig tubing (that’s the version on the video link I sent you). If you can use lead free leader, I recommend the Nash Cling on in 40lbs. I’ve done this video on leaders: ua-cam.com/video/WiqE4u35MK8/v-deo.html
@@matthewcollinsangler very kind thank you and best wishes I’m sure we will speak more in the future
I'm using the Nash running lead clips with a size 8. When the line tightens enough the running clip locks. What do you think of these Matt?
Using tiger nut if in open water due to large numbers of bream.
Watch the video I made on the Nash run clip here: ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.htmlsi=Oux8V8RYX8J6NVcN
It’s a useful product for certain situations and it works well. I’ve never had any luck using tigers to avoid the bream. Bream eat anything!
I switched to the running assembly last year and I am very satisfied. Thanks !!! Now in the winter at the beginning of the season it has been good for me to use a smaller PVA bag which I have been using with in line lead. What do you think about using, short rig about 10cm, 2oz lead, tied to a running rig system and all in a PVA bag? Thank you for your opinion. Pavel Karasek
Hi Pavel, yes that’s spot on 👍 I did a full video on how I set this up here: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.htmlsi=_2Vy64m46ImpgLuj
Hope you find it useful
That's fantastic 😊. You bring up key points that heavent even crossed my mind. That's why I love your videos. Thank you for sharing! 👍🙏
Great feedback mate, thank you!
Very nice video Matt. We all can talk long about the two setups but don’t know exactly what happens underwater. So it’s useless to say which system catches more carp. They both catch carp. The disadvantage for me, is that the lead can become stuck underwater in a snag.
If I'm fishing near rocks or in an area where's there's risk of the lead getting stuck, I still fish with a running lead but with a breakaway system, for example a rotten bottom.
I totally agree matt is not in it cuz some tackle giant pays him he gives his years of knowledge and his advice is always gold stamped
Hi Matt. This is a fantastic video. I have watched it many times and learned lots from it as I do from all your videos. You make a great informative video and I enjoy every one you post. I have used running rigs in the past but always resorted back to my usual setup as I’ve never really given them a chance. I have swapped all my rods to running rigs now to use them in anger. I do have a question though; when using a running rig does it matter how long the hook length is as the lead doesn’t come in to play as such like a lead clip or should I be using a certain length? Simon.
Hi Simon, okay, great! Thanks for the feedback. I mostly use 6 inch rigs with my running rigs. As you say I want the rig to react quickly because I’m not relying on the weight of the lead to hook the carp. That’s down to the elasticity of the mono and a semi tight clutch 👍
Great video.
Could there be a similar video regarding braid?
I recently moved over to braided mainline, and a good video going over the basics of using braid (from casting technique to knots and everything in between).
I've been following the steps such as wetting the spool, ensuring that when spooling up everything is kept tight and all that jazz, however I am still battling with wind knots.
My kit is as listed below:
Shimano TX1 - 13ft 3.5lb tc
Okuma CB80 reel
Backing is 15lb mono
Braid 20lb
Shock leader 40lb mono
Hi mate,
In my experience, the number 1 cause of wind knots with braid is overfilling the spool. You need to underfill the spool by at least 2mm down from the lip to avoid wind knots. Give it a go, see if that helps. Another thought, 20lb braid sounds very thin, you’ll only be getting a knot strength of half that number. The thinnest braid I’ve fished with was 40lb and that was on a massive lake casting from the shore. I might be wrong, your braid may be underrated.
Cheers, Matt
Carp fishing video, for sure. Could also be titled 'how not to waste a single minute of youtube videoing'. So much packed useful info packed into 16 minutes without it feeling rushed or unexplained! Absolutely top notch. The reel with the blue detailing, that's a Nash reel, right? Is it small for a 6k? I only fish small venues, so don't need big reels for range and I've got small hands, so small reels are far more comfortable. I was thinking of a 5k sized one, but this might be a decent bet too?
Hi Chris, thanks ever so much for your continued support 😊 Yes that’s a Nash LR 6000. I’ve been using it on my 10ft, 3.5lb leading rod. I like it. Good line lay, very smooth and it’s lightweight and compact. The perfect partner for 9 or 10ft rods. It’s not a bait runner reel. It’s only got a front drag. That’s why it is quite small and compact. The drag is a bit slow if you want to go from fully locked up to free spool (takes a few turns) but it’s no biggie. They don’t come with spare spools either. You have to buy them. Certainly worth looking at based on the type of fishing you are doing. I wouldn't consider going less than 6k for carp fishing TBH. 5k is more for coarse angling. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler That's great, many thanks. They'd be going on 10ft rods, so definitely worth a looksie.
Excellent video, Matt! Super informative!
Much appreciated mate 👍
Hello from South Korea Mattew, after watching the video I do understand the whole running rig concept. However, I feel that running rig only put more hook pressure when it is pulled away. You have demonstrated line pull test but fish aren't always pulling away. If you grab the hook and move anywhere other then straight away, it will get very little hook pressure due to line ecstaticity and running rig system.
So I am wondering how can it be effective when a carp pick up and run toward you? it has little to no pressure to hook a fish. Thank you for your content, Mate!
Hello 🇰🇷
I understand what you’re saying. You are forgetting the huge amount of water that is pressing down on the line. It’s difficult to demonstrate in a video, but this pressure is real and, together with the drag created by a free running rig, it is enough to hook a carp coming back towards you, as long as the hook is sharp. I’ve caught many carp that were swimming back towards me on a running rig 😊
never knew fishing is so deep. Im all in.
Great video. Have used running leads for years home and abroad to great effect. Unfortunately my new syndicate dictates that the lead has to be dropped on the take so I've had to use a different set up 😢
Hi Matt, great vid, with all the latest vids with light hook links, will you be changing the 35lb hook link rule? Ie using IQ d-rig in 35lb fluro is a bit over the top?
Hi mate, as we have cats to 135lbs, I’m keeping the rules as they are. I’ve only ever tested light hooklinks at Beausoleil during the winter when the cats are not active. Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler ah yeah of course the cats :D forget about those hehe
With free running rigs if you dont use around 4oz of lead its a judder rig meaning it will feel resistnace before you have any indication unless fish tight line in the margin it will have pixk the hookbait up everytime it shakes its head the lead will judder down the line and usually the lead will be off the deck leadcore leader leadless leader will create friction unlike a mono or fluro
Hi Matt,
you are doing excelent job!!!. Your videos is focused mainly for explanation, not selling, I LOVE IT. My question is : on our lake, I catch one rod up to 60m and the other at the 100m limit with a helicopter assembly. Can a running rig also be used for longer distances? What is the maximum distance you use running rig with monofilament line? thank you and have a nice day. Pavel Karásek
Hi Pavel, thanks for the feedback 😊 Most of my fishing at range is done by casting and I would happily fish running rigs at 100m - 120m. Helicopter rigs are often used at longer distances because they are more resistant to tangles but as long as you use a fairly thick hooklink material then you shouldn't have any issues. I use the 30lbs (0.50) or the 40lbs (0.60) Nash heavy duty snag leader as my hooklink when casting rigs to the horizon. It’s very robust, semi-stiff and so much cheaper than fluorocarbon. Rigs are either mono hair or mono d for tangle resistance and simplicity. You just don’t need anything else! Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler I'm in the process of changing my fishing style, a lot of your thoughts confirm my assumptions. The problem was that even though I was doing some things my own way, generally speaking, I couldn't leave behind the established practices and technical designs of fishing in my country. Your video and photos have definitely made a difference, I'll manage to try a few things this season, but I can't wait to see next!!! Thank you again, Pavel Karásek
@@pavelkarasek4802 I know changing habits is difficult so well done for having a go! All the best 🎣
Well done and well described. But what about the case when fish pics up and goes the direction to the bank? I love your setup when the running ring with lead is pressed a little on the rubber tail and drops after the shake
Hi there, yes, it works also when the carp comes back towards you because the lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline. This has happened to me several times this year alone and I’ve landed every one of them. I know some people like the shock effect on some of my other rigs but now, I only fish with full running rigs and they work great for me.
Thank you for your answer. Let's try it instead of your semi fixed setup!
You’ve explained this very well mate! Ile always use running led set ups there’s no better way 👍🏽🐳
Great to hear it mate 😊
Hey Matt, great video but I'm still confused how this would work if the carp swims toward you initially. In the case of a drop back the clutch is never activated and so the most force you could possibly hope for is the weight of the lead (which won't even take effect in full because it will slide down the line). And even in the case when the carp runs away, 50cm (or probably a lot farther if you're fishing more than 30m) is a long way to wait to hook them, especially in winter when they are sluggish and not moving a whole lot. How would this still work? Thanks!
Hi mate, I understand your concerns but there’s no reason to worry. I’ve fished through the winters for the last 13 years for some large and very clued up carp with very hard mouths using nothing more than inline running leads and they work really well. The vast majority of my customers also use running rigs and if they weren't catching I wouldn't have a business lol. Don’t forget that the carp will instinctively pull against the direction of tension initially. This is when the hooking is done. They do occasionally bolt back towards me but the rig has done the bizz and the running lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline and holds that hook in just great. It doesn't matter which way they swim, a running lead will hook them and be incredibly difficult for them to deal with. Hook sharpness is absolutely everything of course and in the winter I’ll drop to a hand sharpened barbless size 8 or even a 10 to maximise my chances. Hope that helps, Matt.
The Prologic Wind Blade Bite Indicator gives me a massive advantage over most other types of bite indicators. You won't miss a single back drop with them, because they are spring loaded. You get a huge travel distance compared with a bobbin or swinger. You can even fish with your rod vertically.
I've never understood why you dumped leads on the bottom in the UK. I live in Canada and I wouldn't dream of dropping leads in our waters. It's pollution, and leads cost an arm and a leg. I use running rigs all the time. My lead is a 3 oz inline spring feeder I use for packbait (panko, oats, cream corn, nibblets, and commercial pineapple syrup). The rig is a a Slip D rig with pop-ups. My main line is braid, and I attach a ten foot mono leader for stretch. I make a small loop knot on the mono going inside the lead. That gives it just a bit of resistance before carp can shake the lead off to slide on the line.
I totally agree on running leads, lead clips are not necessary and not as effective. There are plenty of running lead setups on this channel.
Great video again mate
Thanks very much mate
Nice video!!! But what when you Need bigger leads to cast above 100 meters does it affect the bite Indication / hooking of the Fish
Hi there, I’ve used a basic running lead setup with leads up to 115gr at 100m range and it works great. The further out you fish, the worse your bite indication will be with any system, but this gives you the best indication that I know of. Cheers, Matt
Always good stuff!
Thanks mate 😊
Great videos... Thanks a lot!👍
well i am booked in to my local specimen lake in 2 weeks in carrs Stockton and the rules state free running lead only which prefer as
i hate the idea of dumping a lead every time not good for the water and it costs money every time this video has helped me so much this is the exact rig i will be using has to 15LB main line though for the rules brilliant video really well explained thank you i belive you have a place in france is that right
Hi mate, I hate dumping leads too and I've been fishing running leads for over 10 years. Plenty of running rig designs on my channel. All the best with your session 🎣.
Yes, I have a lake in France, here's the website if you want to have a look: www.frenchcarpandcats.com 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler thankyou very much lets see if i can catch anythng
Never understood rigs that eject the lead at the drop of a hat... seems just like a waste of leads and a sale opportunity for the suppliers... by all means, use a rig that can shed the lead in the case of snap-offs to save fish being snagged...
Now, I'm irish and carp fishing doesn't happen much over here so I'm not at all an expert on carping... but I'm an avid pike angler and the same issues apply somewhat... same when I fish for tench "carp-style" ...
Good vid !!
😎👍☘🍺
Great to hear Peter!
A standard paper clip makes a cheap safety clip for the lead. It's strong enough to withstand even relatively hard casting with all but the biggest leads and you can still bend a bit of a tag into them to make them a bit stronger etc. At the same time, they're safely opened with a few lbs pressure on standard carp or pike gear in the event that a lead should get snagged or whatever.
@@billcollins6705 Hmm I never thought of using a paper clip! Good to hear it's working for you. I can see how that would work for sure, I think I’d still probably just use some lightweight mono to make a breakaway connection if I need to. The plastic ring I used in this video breaks at about 10lb of force which suits my public water fishing as I’m using 20lb Nash Bullet most of the time. Thanks for the idea though. It’s certainly an option to consider. Cheers, Matt.
If I fish on clean bottom with not much weed or uneven bottom between me and the hook, running rig is my go to rig now a days. I've caught good on it, especially targeting grass carp which is notoriously hard in the mouth. When I tried it the first time I really had a hard time getting my mind to believe it but I actually had fish on it first session and after that I have no doubt in my mind that it is better in most cases, if I can get away with it. I so far only used it on hard boottom. Using it on silt and in weed etc is proberly not a good idea what so ever I suspect. You are going through some of the mechanics in play in the video. What I personally believe is the outmost important one is the lines drag on the bottom. I fish mine slack, with flourocarbon and 1.5oz pear leads. I have the clutch as hard as I dare but the line is pretty much on the bottom from my tips to where the hook is (ideally) so when the fish takes my bait it can travel a little bit before the clutch comes in to play and still, they rip those rods like mental so they are decently hooked even before I see it I suspect and that must be the drag of the line. They take the bait, after a while notice some thing is wrong and tries to go away but everywhere they go gives drag and ultimately they are on the clutch soon enough.
I don't know how rare running rigs are in the UK but in Sweden where I live and fish I don't think that many anglers use it. I think if more people dared to try it, more would use it as standard.
Thanks very much for sharing 🎣
Method feeder carp fishing with an auto hooking action from the bead, then release to a running/inline rig....... That's catching carp for me and most of the times it's a screaming take (clutch set at 8-10 pounds)....
Hi Matt, You described the running leads effectiveness with the strech of mono. What is your view on the running rig with braid? I am from South Africa and we are mostly fishing for wild carp that hasnt seen to many rigs. Is the running rig still the most effective even if carp isn't rig shy. Love your videos. Keep up the good work.
Hi mate, I do a lot of river carp fishing for wild fish that see much less angling pressure and I guarantee that running rigs are still the most effective method. I used to use braid but I don’t anymore (for reasons of fish safety). If you need to fish braid, I would always incorporate a rotten bottom connection to the running lead that the fish can break in the worst case scenario.
Here are some videos that may help you:
Rotten bottom: ua-cam.com/video/pSjT2wPKtTw/v-deo.html
Using lead clips vs running leads on the river: ua-cam.com/video/NzmQgIiwFI0/v-deo.html
My ‘wild carp’ rig: ua-cam.com/users/shortsCh032Nsihcc?feature=share
Thank you Matt.
Brilliant video Matt,you explain things so well.👍
Thanks very much Robert 👍
Hy there i think you cant use it when you are fishing close on some branches ?
What for system do i use then
I don’t recommend fishing near snags with any rig. Apply bait short to the snags to encourage them to move out and you can use a running rig there.
Brilliant piece of practical and informative work from a true thinking angler AND based on results. Too much of what we see today is unproven marketing hype, “folklore” as Jim Gibbinson used to say, and Matt cuts through all that. I would be really interested to know Matt’s views on fishing in heavy weed I.e. barbless hook security with a ball of weed preventing direct contact and dropping the lead in that situation, maybe the new Nash run clip is part of the answer.
Hi Adrian, thanks for the support 👍 The Nash run clip would be my first choice on a weeded venue, unless I have to fish solid PVA bags (outline inline in that case and dump on the take). I’ve never used barbless in weed because since I’ve switched, I haven’t been to a weedy lake. However, the 7 year study that I quoted in the barbless vs micro barb video included heavily weeded waters and they found that barbless is the only way to go from a fish safety standpoint. Cheers, Matt
Always use running rig , takes are amazing, great video , very educational, brilliant 😊🎣
Glad you enjoyed it mate.
Hi Matthew, I really like this video and the running rig style of fishing. I recently started carp fishing but before I watched these videos about semi-fixed reels I bought some lovely vintage bait runners. I love them but the bait runner's strongest setting is only 1lb in strength, is this enough to pull off this elastic free running style? Let me know your thoughts and what might be the best way to fish running rigs if you're forced to fish with bait runners.
Hi mate, if you can set your bait runner to achieve 1lb of force then that’s plenty enough to hook most carp. Don’t forget that you don’t actually have to use the bait runner facility at all. Just adjust the front drag knob to give you the amount that you feel you need. Please bear in mind that if you are not used to fishing with a semi-tight clutch, you need to use a really robust bank stick setup, with rear gripping rod rests, and point the rod (tip slightly up) at the bait. I’d hate you to lose a rod when trying this for the first time. Watch this video on rod setup tips: ua-cam.com/video/j_NSmA2CtQQ/v-deo.htmlsi=5FOW4f1XODHpjGQ5
(btw, as you’re starting out, I now offer one-on-one tuition by video call. If that’s of interest, let me know).
@@matthewcollinsangler Excellent, I had noticed that you'd mentioned about the rear grips and will invest in some. Any suggestion about a specific brand if you don't mind me asking? I have a 2 rod prologic pod.
@@fin1493 I use the Solar P1 long eared back rests. Very nice but expensive. Nash do some decent ones that I see quite a lot of guests use.
Great video Matt! One question, would a shock and run system be even better as it has all the same benefits but also the sock effect? Cheers
Hi mate, I’ve used both and I’ve shown both types on my channel, and, at this stage, I can honestly say that for my fishing, the shock effect doesn’t really add much. I used to believe it did, but I’ve been fishing with pure running rigs for the last 3 years and I don’t believe I would have caught more with a shock effect 😊
@@matthewcollinsanglerI see, in that case I will stick to running rigs. I gave these a try for the first time a few days ago after seeing this video and hooked 2 fish with 2 takes, thanks mate!!
One other question if you don’t mind - in my mind, using a heavier lead 3-5oz would make more sense as then the clutch would be engaged at all times… with a 2oz in the case where the fish swims towards you, the lead will be picked up and slide on the bottom, meaning the lead will not act as a stong pivot and the clutch would not be engaged as well as line tension will be lost. What do you think about using heavy leads to ensure a stong anchor / pivot?
Cheers mate
@@Era-DK I’ve done some testing on this and I found that it doesn’t make a difference. I choose the lead size based on other factors (range, nature of the lakebed). I mostly use a 3oz lead because it suits the fishing I’m doing but there are situations when I know a 1oz lead is a better choice so I’ll use that with absolute confidence. Don’t forget that the weight of the water on the line creates a ‘hidden hooking effect’ and helps to drive the hook home, even when the carp swims back towards me (like the takes I had in the video).
How did you get a “massive drop back” when using running leads ?
It’s rare but it happens from time to time. When it does, the bobbin usually slams up to the blank first (that’s them hooking themselves against the semi tight clutch), then, if they swim back towards me, the tension goes out of the line and the bobbin falls to the floor. The running lead does an incredibly good job of holding the hook in place during this rapid sequence so I hardly ever suffer a hook pull thanks to the elasticity of the mono.
Hello Matthew, can you give some advice please? I went fishing for carp and i had a lot of bites, but I lost more carp than I managed to bring to the shore. I lost most of them close to the shore, what do you think would be the explanation?
So you’re losing them at the netting stage? This has to be hook sharpness (or lack of). Carp hook damage very easily. I use one hook per cast! If you are fishing with the same hook over and over again then this is the result. It may seem over the top to change your hooks so frequently but it’s quite literally the fast track to success. Spend all your money on hooks and as little as possible on everything else. If that doesn't solve the problem then it’s your rig. Just use a basic mono hair or mono D rig. It’s all I use 99% of the time.
I’ve done a full video on hook pulls: ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.html
Sir what will be when we use braided line as main line over mono line. What will be the result and it's effect
Because braid has little or no stretch, the clutch comes into play very quickly and the fish is hooked quickly but because there’s no stretch, there is a higher risk of hook pulls so it’s always a good idea to add some stretch back into the system with a length of thick monofilament leader material at the end of the braided mainline. 2m - 3m is enough but 5 - 10m is more normal.
@@matthewcollinsangler ok sir, thanks for your reply 🙏
When will you try triggerlink matt deadly on running rigs
Hi Aaron, I have experimented with triggerlink, and of course it works and I’ve caught carp. But because of the huge amount of elasticity in mono, I don’t feel the triggerlink is making a difference in my fishing. If it’s working for you, then great mate.
Hi Matt what is that ur using to stop the lead mate what are they called plz
Hi, it's a shock bead with a 6mm bore bead on top of it.
@@matthewcollinsangler hi Matt this is getting confusing mate how did you get the bore bead over the other how that happening u definitely to do a step by step with product and how to set it up as there different bead and other go over other bead don’t get it
@@bertharding1987 I’m sorry my previous answer was misleading. I forgot that in this video I’m using various different types of running lead setups. This is not a how to video. This is a video that explains how running rigs work. To make a running rig you can take anywhere, here’s a detailed tutorial: ua-cam.com/video/H733RZER094/v-deo.html
Absolutely fantastic I always find your videos very informative thank you
Great to hear mate, much appreciated 😊 I also offer one-on-one tuition by video call now. If that’s of interest, let me know.
Been using running lead/leads on my rods for over a decade. Consider this as my edge and rarely if ever do I see other anglers use this.
Same here the running lead produces very little resistance and the fish seem more confident in taking the bait especially on semi slack lines
I'm not surprised, they've been forgotten or ignored, but they are deadly effective and no need to lose the lead all the time.
Great to hear they're working for you too 👍
works with a simple inline lead?
Would you use a stiffer rig with a running rig with 15-20lb fluorocarbon hooklink?
Hi mate, it all depends on the exact type of running rig but if you are talking about a swivel based running lead then yes a stiff material is the way to go. If you fancy saving some money, watch this video on why I don’t use fluoro: ua-cam.com/video/5GzS0Ae-tUA/v-deo.htmlsi=4qc7VEdZ3rU9iae2
Excellent video Matt. Happy new year keep the videos coming very Interesting as always.
Question if you don't mind mate thinking about leads what size weight do you think a. 5lb tc rod could handle. Please any ideas buddy
5lb? Ah that’s a bit heavy for carp. That’s the TC of a heavy duty spod rod which can cast 7-8oz. More suitable for catfishing TBH.
So I was asked by a mate of mine who is planning on using 1 for a little sea fishing and cat fishing scratching for a bite.
He's going traveling around the coast and fresh water of the uk
@@johnmichael1220 Ah right, well that makes a bit more sense. Sea fishing is completely different to carp fishing so you really need to ask a sea angler TBH mate. For all I know you can use 1lb of lead on a 5lb rod. Not a clue mate, sorry.
@@matthewcollinsangler yes mate it's more of casting weight that a spod rod holds with your knowledge thought I'd ask but I would be looking to asking a sea angler also. Not many have a guess on a spod rod casting weight. And never handled a cat fish so new on me.
My mate doesn't deal with the internet hense why I am looking to ask a few people..
Cheers Matt happy new year to you and the family
Tight lines
Any chance of a video on backleads Matt?
Hi mate, yes as it happens. We haven't filmed it yet but planning to do it this winter so should be out next year 👍
Hey Matt, i got a quick guestin, should i rather use method feeder as a running system ? Or as a semi-fixed one ? What's better ?
Hi there, in my experience, all carp rigs work better as running rigs. I no longer use any form of semi fixed carp rig unless I absolutely have to.
Although I appreciate all the different rig setups.... I only use a sliding rig for ledgering....using either a sliding swivel lead clip or direct inline leads.... depending on whether the bed is soft or solid....simply because it's always worked with a simple sliding D hook presentation!..cheap cheerful and very few dropped fish ....also I personally I dont like to drop and waste leads 😂
Can get away using normal braid as the hook link if your casting that far or do you use a coated hook link
Hi Gary, TBH I hardly use coated braid in my fishing. I mostly use standard mono (not fluoro) from 0.30 to 0.60 diameter when I’m casting. Mono is very tangle resistant and much cheaper than braid or coated braid. Your mainline makes an excellent and very cheap hooklink material so that would be my first recommendation. Watch this video for a very simple but effective mono rig that can be cast with confidence: ua-cam.com/video/LzFina92brM/v-deo.htmlsi=WuVEPR5s23ee1hZq
If I am casting braid then I would always hit the clip and feel the lead down but this is not easy to do (it took me years to master!) If you are worried about tangles and you want to use braid then I would fish an inline running lead inside a solid PVA bag. This should totally eliminate the risk of tangles. Here’s a full video on this method: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.htmlsi=V1uTaVB8pnDajzib
Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt
What sort of range can you cast this setup Matt? I find it fairly unstable in the air affecting range and accuracy.
Hi Wayne,
TBH it all depends on how good you are at casting. I’d be happy to cast this up to 60m, hit the clip and feel the lead down and I’d be very confident that it’s fishing effectively for me. However if hitting the clip is something you struggle with then I wouldn't use a supple braided hooklink like I do in this video. I’ve cast simple, running rigs just like this using 0.45 mono up to 90m on many occasions and this combination works well. If you're worried about tangles then basic mono rigs are definitely the way to go and I’d happily use 0.50 or even 0.60 mono depending on the situation. With regards to stability in flight and loss of accuracy, it’s not something that worries me. I use 115g lead and that carries it out to where I need it easy enough. Forget hitting the clip at that range, just fire it out there and tighten down. Do a few test casts to make sure everything is working for you. Best of luck, Matt.
Hi Matthew what running set up is that who’s it made by? Regards
Hi Mark, ah it’s kind of my own! It’s made up of various bits because I like the way they work together and they do the job I need them to do. The heli sleeve is made by Nash. It’s normally used for heli rigs (obviously) but I like it as a run rig buffer bead. It comes with a bead which I don’t use. The plastic ring is made by Fox. Unfortunately you can’t buy the ring by itself. It comes as part of the Fox run ring kit but I don’t use the Fox buffer bead as I prefer the Nash one! There are various ways of doing it. It’s all about finding something that works for you in your fishing.
Here’s a list of the bits I use for this setup: amzn.to/3PvVCc2
(this is an Amazon affiliate link, anything you buy through this link will give us a small commission, price to you is the same)
Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler great thanks for that mate
Hi Matt. Do you think this running rig method will work with braided line?
Hi mate, I wouldn’t use braided mainline with a conventional running rig because braid is horrendous for tangling, strong and difficult to break and it can become dangerous.
If you want to use braided mainline with a running rig I would either use the Nash run clip system (ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.html) or create a rotten bottom connection in between the lead and the run ring. I use the Fox plastic rings that break at 10 lbs of force so they’d work or you can make your own with some light mono. The Nash run clip works great but you’ll find you’ll lose the lead every time on the take with braid anyway so you may as well just use a lead clip with a tail rubber lightly pushed on. I avoid using braided mainline due to safety concerns but in some instances there’s not much choice. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
What if the take is toward the angler (bank). Is it also effective?
Yes, it works also when the carp comes back towards you because the lead acts as a pivot point for the mainline. This has happened to me several times this year alone and I’ve landed every one of them.
What do you do on weedy lakes?
I’d happily use a running lead system over light weed but I’d keep the lead as light as possible and also choose a thin smooth lead such as a distance lead or a tournament style lead. These pull through weed easier. You don’t want a dumpy style of lead. The Nash run clip system is worth considering in weed but it really depends on how bad the weed is and what type. Only test fishing would tell you whether it’s a good idea or not. Worse case scenario (heavy weed) I’d fish an outline inline style and dump the lead on the take. I hate doing it and it’s very very rare that I have to fish like this but on some waters, it’s the only way. Outline inline offers far more for the weed to hold onto. I would avoid a lead clip at all costs. Cheers, Matt.
@@matthewcollinsangler excellent Thankyou I'll give it a whirl. 👍
Nice one Matthew, all the old lead droppers won't be happy
Thanks mate 😊 If a few anglers choose to try running rigs after seeing this video, then great 😊
Matthew, if I use a running rig, how tight should my line be? Fishing about 20-30 feet out
Hi mate, if I’m fishing a really close range (as you are) then my line would be very slack. Hanging vertically down from the tip to keep the mainline away from any carp moving through the area. I would fish individual bank sticks driven securely into the ground and point the rod tip slightly up from the horizontal. Gripping rear rod rest is essential. Tighten the clutch to deliver at least 1lb of force on the take. This will ensure they are well hooked before you even lift the rod. Test the security of your setup beforehand. Get it wrong and you’ll lose the rod! Good luck, Matt.
Will do. I'm hitting a new spot tomorrow and will give it a try. I want to sincerely thank you for all your videos. You give so much fantastic, well thought out information. I'm still pretty new to this style of fishing, but I've learned a lot from you
@@bigbearddahuzi1036 Fantastic to hear, thank you. If you’re fairly new to carp fishing and you like my channel, I also offer one-on-one tuition by video call now. If that’s of interest, let me know 😊
Does a running lead work ok with barbed hooks ?
Yes it works
Ot was pnly recently after joining an angling club and meeting the regulars on the lake that the baliff explained what a lead clip was and i expclaimed that dropping a lead every bite is not my style / philosophy at all. Ofcourse in hindsight the leads are probably non toxic but still. I agree with not using bolt rigs because i never did. I always use a running rig because its very simple. Will start using a chod /helicopter as it seemed to work but my buddy recons its easy for fish to spit it out
Dropping leads in a lake is definitely not a good idea and should be avoided at all costs. You're right, running rigs are simple, have always worked and always will! They can also be adapted to different fishing situations and you'll find different designs on this channel 😊
Newbie here, I know you said you use a semi tight clutch, will this also work with a baitrunner??
Hi there, best way to create a semi tight clutch with a bait runner is to not use the baitrunner facility. Just carefully set the clutch (front or rear depending on the reel) to semi tight. If you are a relative newcomer to the sport you need to be very sure of the security of your rod setup. Cheap, flimsy bankware that is too weak to be securely driven into hard ground is an absolute no (especially in winter!) Err on the side of caution when you test your bankside setup. Do not hold the rod when you do a pull test as it defeats the object. Get it wrong and you’ll lose your rod. I’ve seen it happen multiple times to guests here at my lake.
Here are a couple more videos on this topic that might help you:
ua-cam.com/video/ECd6MJhUW58/v-deo.html
ua-cam.com/video/AGuXj4xKDow/v-deo.html
Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you, I'll have a gander cheers
What’s your view on the Enterprise Snag Safe Run rings , I swear by them ,,,
Hi Alan, I have used them. The reason why I don't anymore is that I find the C clip attachment for the lead broke too easily for me, especially on a savage take. I've also tried the C clip from Thinking Anglers and had the same problem. I find the plastic run ring works for a lot of my fishing, but I've also used a rotten bottom connection with lightweight mono if necessary. Cheers, Matt
@@matthewcollinsangler , 👍
Running rig is my favourite. 👍
Hi mat would you say you get the same effect with inline leads
As a running inline lead, yes absolutely. If you want to use an inline lead, you must remove the plastic insert from it, cover the swivel with a tail rubber to create a tapered buffer bead. It's highly effective.
@@matthewcollinsangler Or as I have been doing for years squeeze the swivel end down so it moves out with no resistance what so ever ;)
I assume that you leave the plastic insert inside. That can work on a lead free leader but I wouldn't do it with tubing as you're expecting the lead to push the rig tubing up and it's the rig tubing that becomes the sliding element - worst case, it could be a safety risk for the carp.
Hi, Can the ronnie rig be used with this system.
You can use any rig with any lead set up
Hi mate, yes you can use a ronnie rig with a running lead (I'm no fan of ronnie rigs though!)
Beste matthew ik vis met een running rig nu is mijn vraag welk gewicht lood kan ik het best gebruiken
Running leads work great with light/medium sized leads. I mostly use 3oz but anything between 1 - 4 oz works great. I wouldn't go above 4oz as that’s a lot of weight to have swinging about when you are playing a carp. Cheers, Matt.
Matthew bedankt voor u antwoord 👍👍👍👍👍
presumably slack lines when using running rigs?
Not necessarily. You can fish running rigs with a tight line, slack line or semi slack, or back leads. What’s important is that you have a very solid bankside setup and fish a semi tight clutch. With a running rig, I’m not creating the bolt effect with the lead but I am creating a much bigger bolt effect with my clutch ie it’s the clutch that’s doing the hooking of the carp.
@@matthewcollinsangler Ah okay makes sense, thanks for the reply.
bro is one clever guy
Thx again for A very good video
Thanks very much 😊
I’ve always fished feeder and lead on a running paternoster rig I don’t understand where all this lead dropping rigs etc started I think it’s a terrible idea basically littering the lake bed and wasteful ! Least on a running paternoster if you do loose a fish due to line breaking it drops the weight still can’t see why you would want to fish ant other way
Great angler ❤