Fantastic video Matt, been thinking about this stuff a lot over the last year since your running rig video and I'm so glad you made a full video on the topic. I've found lots of problems when using a squeezed-down swivel, bead, etc, because even if you press the lead into it with the right amount of force on the bank, a hard cast at long range can press it in even further and it again becomes a semi-fixed rig. I haven't ever seen those inline inserts you used around the 16 minute mark, but I'm in love! You can't overpress them so this issue is resolved even on the longest of casts. Thanks so much for the idea!
Great to hear that mate. Those little inserts are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts. They weren't designed for what I'm doing here, they're designed for use with a drop-off style inline lead, but they work great like this! And they solve this change of fit issue on a big cast with a big lead 👍
This is a cracking bit of advice. I think I would grease my anti tangle sleeves with a bit of hemp oil to make sure the inline flies off on first shake 👍🎣🐟
Great advice. Last year i used a similar setup with pva bag stems. You can drill out the inline lead so the stem pops out with a known force turning the rig into a running rig when the carp shakes its head. It also works with tubing.
I’ve noticed Korda dark matter leaders stop the leads at the fused end part. I think I’ve lost fish because of this ? Also issues with pva tape stopping the lead running ? How tight should the clutch be ? I’m not sure it should be super tight ?
@@CB-zr9fi Hi mate, I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!). I know that certain makes of PVA are slow to melt (especially in cold weather). I’ve been using the Nash fast melt for a few years now and I’d never had an issue with PVA “snot” but then again my rigs do stay in the water for quite a while. I set my clutch to deliver 1 - 2lbs of force to the rig but to do this you need a really solid bankside setup. Just set it so that even with a really savage take the rod does not go in. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
Thanks for the advice Matt with the shot of the camera next to the rod I tried turning the sensitivity up on the delcim when I new the fish were going sideways and managed to solve the problem but i will still use your tip!
I use inline flatbed feeders for tench a lot. I now carefully see how snug the fit is with the swivel. If needed (and so far it always is) I open up the inside of the insert so that after a maximum of three shakes the swivel comes loose. My hookup rate has increased as has my bite indication, I tend to use semislack lines. I think I have only had one fish pivot on me and give almost no indication, I suspect that the silkweed prevented the swivel from coming away easily. Some of the tench have no idea what to do once that hook is set and just sit there after a few beeps! Most give great runs and the swivel and feeder have separated. Anyway, once again great advice that with a little thought can be adapted to other species. You have really given me a lot to work with over this past year targeting tench. Thanks!
Plastic tulip beads with thick walled silicone tubing over the thinner part have done the business for me since the 80's, the silicone can be pushed together to make it harder to release or stretched to make it easier. The tulip bead won't pull inside the lead like the swivel with an anti-tangle sleeve over it, someone could jam the swivel inside the lead doing this with a hard cast and potentially leave a fish trailing tackle with the lead still attached.
I always pinch down the swivel when using an inline lead. I like using the hermit rig when using inline leads. Good indication if youve been done too cause the maker elastic would be detached
I had one of my best 72 hour sessions using an inline lead set up in silt, short hook link and using stick. All the things you’re told not to do. I found that the hooking properties meant the takes was savage and they hooked quickly and bolted. They never moved let or right slowly as per the video. I had 7 fish, lost 2.
Loving your channel Matthew, so many great tips, thanks! Would reducing the swivel size down to perhaps a size 12 so that it doesn't lock into the insert not solve the problem of the 'fixed lead' (just a thought). Scratch that thought, I should've watched the rest of the video clip first lol
I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
I was out Thursday Friday night and always fish bags drop off style but I was getting bream so switched to semi fixed. What your explaining now with the single beeps I thought may have been liners but as I was using semi fixed I could have been getting done. Great video mate 😁👍🏻
Thank you Matthew, this is super helpful. I'm off to France in a few weeks and was likely to use the 'classic' inline set up. Rules require tubing, so will certainly use the last option you demonstrated. Fingers crossed!
Fantastic explained and demonstrated the safe way to use in-line lead set-ups great video set-ups that turn in to running rigs definitely carp more effective at catching carp 👍🏻🎣🎣🎣
For anyone looking for an out of the box in-line system that works like @Matthew Collins exemplified, you can look for the Fox Edges Kling On leads and pair them with Fox Tadpole inserts. The Tadpole insert allows for 2 types of fixation methods on the lead, one that is very stiff that sometimes doesn't properly eject the lead when the carp shakes and one that is semi-stiff which helps just enough with hooking but ejects when the carp shake.
What do you mean by the two types of fixation methods? How do you do one or the other, is it how hard you push it on or some other thing you have to do to switch between? I want to do the semi-stiff one which is just enough to hook, do I press it on lighter?
@@crazycarpguy1074 yeah, it is related to how deep you push the tadpole insert into the lead. If you push it lightly up to the first section(not going all the way through) it should behave like a shocker rig and release easily.
@@crazycarpguy1074 Hi. I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
Great advice again thankyou Matt im not getting into the super science someone has commented about water being so many nano millions times denser blah blah im not clever enough to take on that dispute all i do know is when i use the inline insert or drill my leads so my pva bag stems work in the same way you demonstate with a single donk.....my pva fishing improved and my catch rate increased thats all i need to know secondly my opinion is i dont feel that carp fishing needs to get so scientific keep doing these vids a lot of us appreciate them
That's really great to hear mate, appreciate the feedback and support 👍 and I know a rig doesn't behave in the water as it does in the air, I was swinging it quite freely there lol, but the results are the same, and as you say, this works. And the underwater videos have shown us over the years what the carp can do to our leads!
I've used inline leads fairly similar to this since the late 90s but I put the tail rubber on first,slide the swivel into the rubber,put the tubing on and then slide the lead down on to the back of the tail rubber which fits lovely on most leads. The carp comes in to contact with the lead setting the hook and then is almost free running instantly. I don't use inline's for any distance fishing though so I can see the benefits of having some sort of tubing behind the lead if I did 👍
Whatever i use, inline or leadclip, i modify it like that, just to have a free run.. stoper for inline, for leadclip i just sqeeze a bit the swiwel. This is a great advice!
OK, good to hear 👍 You mention squeezing the swivel on a lead clip so that the lead clip body rides up the line, it’s something I would never do as it could be a safety risk, I talk about this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/a6WI6Y1o_Xk/v-deo.html
Loving in-line setups that are semi fixed in pva bags. Violent takes on a kd rig. I’ve been also using running leads and German rigs. Semi slack and it seems to work if you take time to sink the line. The less complicated for the better.
I learned so much from you over the years. Love your videos. Wouldn't pva bag stem work the same way? When carp lifts up the lead it creates lever and pressure on the hook, but if he starts moving it slides off the stem.
Thanks for the feedback mate. So it all depends on the fit of the PVA bag stem. The ones I've seen are too tight a fit but if you can find one that works nicely or modify the diameter of the hole in the lead, then that's an option 👍
@Simon-ms6sb Yea same, i have leads and stems from avid carp and had to drill every lead to make them work as you described. (few min work) I was amazed by Matt answer because he nailed it. In fact i dint do it for the better effect that Matt was talking about, i did it because it seemed unsafe for fish, lead was just too tight around the stem. But im glad i fish with bags right even if by luck.
@@Taurgar 🤣🤣 funny you say that I also found out by accident I like you really wasn't happy about how tight the stems stayed in my leads so drilled them out then once I'd done so it was a total fluke and I realised it works as matt describes
With regard to not pushing the tail rubber in too far, this may prove problematic when fishing at range as the thump of the cast and the hit of the line clip will both drive the tail rubber in further. Great for up to 50 yards or so, not sure if the lead will release as easy if cast at distance.
You are absolutely correct and that is why I began using the Nash inline lead inserts for this setup as the 90° shoulder prevents the insert being drawn into the lead and changing the delicate fit that I’m looking to achieve.
Hello Matt, as usual a great and interesting video. Since I was at Beausoleil, this has become my basic setup for the venues we fish at the moment. Thanks again for all your great advice. Btw: my buddy landed 2 weeks ago a very beautiful 20+kg fish using this system.
Matt, how would you combine PVA bag quick change and the last rig tubing/ tail rubber setup in the video? Cheers. Appreciate your videos and already using some of your rigs as well as scaled down versions of your rigs for other course fishing.
Hi there, I don’t use and wouldn’t attempt to use solid PVA bags with rig tubing. It’s slow and complicated. If you have to use tubing, use a PVA stick 😊
hi, great vid! my question is does the running element of the rig cause problems with resetting if you get done by a carp? will the next fish to come along wont have the weight of the lead to drive the hook into the bottom lid?
If you get picked up and rejected, then this is a sign that something wasn't quite right in the first place. Sure, you might just have been unlucky (it happens to all of us!) and if it happens the risk of the hook point being damaged is very high and therefore the chance of getting a 2nd chance is low. If I get a flurry of bleeps and then nothing happens, I’ll leave it for maybe 10 minutes, then wind it in and have another go. I don’t rely on the weight of the lead to do the hooking for me so I don’t worry about things like this. I know many anglers expect the lead to do the hooking for them but that’s not the way I engineer my rigs because the carp will use the weight of the lead against me. Hope that helps!
Are you able to show us any tips and tricks for splicing leaders? i have the 40lb cling on nash and i am struggling to splice any help would be greatful
Hi mate, I've done a full video on leaders: ua-cam.com/video/WiqE4u35MK8/v-deo.html. About 5mns in, I show how to splice the Nash cling on leader, I get on very well with it so hopefully this will help you out 👍
Great video as ever! Do you think the force of the cast pulls the insert in tighter in some circumstances and makes it more difficult for it to pull out when you get a take?
Yes, it's a problem if you use the silicon tail rubber. To avoid this problem, use the Nash tungsten inline lead insert (it has a shoulder which stops it from being pulled in) 👍
I.ve learned so much from you, cant thank you enough, sir! Had a day ticket today and put 3 carp just under 15lb on the mat along with maybe 15 more fish around 6-7lb mark (aparently the biggest fish in the lake is 24lb or so, so im quite proud of myself). Tied up some rigs like you did in a recent video and im sold, thats my go-to from now on, thank you! However, as someone slowly transitioning from coarse fishing towards the speci..I would like to know more about how you go about prepping your baits. Do you use the same boilies for the feed as well as hookbaits (maybe just flavoured differently?). Im just a bit confused as I didnt really see ' bottom hook boilies' at my local tackle shop..just wafters and pop ups..which im slowly getting tired of😬 thanks!
Hi mate, glad you’ve been able to use some of my tips and congrats on your recent successes 👏. There’s no need to make carp fishing any more complicated than it needs to be. I just use a good quality boilie for both jobs, feed and hookbait. Scopex Squid has caught me hundreds of carp over the years and that’s pretty much all I use. With a high quality food bait like this you don’t need to use it in large volumes unless you are fishing in flowing water. To keep costs down, make up some PVA stringers for whole baits or crush it down to make a crumb stick. I also like to dip it in some Scopex Squid spod syrup for extra attraction but it’s optional because the carp love the bait as is. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.
I just make the original inside plastic of the inline lead a bit thinner. Do it with a sharp knive end I get the same result. Little shake and the lead is off.
I've found alot of the time losing fish is down to the weight of the lead and length of hooklength.I was recently using 1oz (normally use heavier),lost 3 fish in a row,switched to a 2.5oz and landed 8 straight.Also find running leads better in shallow water and drop offs better in deeper water.Used to use inlines alot but hardly use them at all these days.
This is a little over complicated, IMHO, however, it does start you thinking. I just drilled out my leads with a 5.5mm and 3,5mm drill bit and then used a tidy boom. This works perfectly, and I have found two different types, Flouro and Metal. I tend to use the Gemini Tidy booms as they are Flouro and more flexible. As an added one, and to reduce costs, you could also use a XL anti-snag as shown in this video. Tight Lines Anglers
Hi Leigh, they are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts: www.nashtackle.co.uk/en/tackle/terminal-tackle/lead-clips-lead-attachement/tungsten-inline-lead-insert-1/
I have though about a running rig using this system but use 1 or 2lb line like the hermit rig, carp picks it up, the 1 or 2lb breaks and it becomes a running rig but has been strong enough to set the rig.
I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp, I’m using the elasticity of the mono and the power of the semi tight clutch: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html. In my experience, if the shock effect is too great, the carp will use the weight of the lead to eject the rig anyway.
I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp, I’m using the elasticity in the mon and my semi tight clutch, here’s how it works: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html.
I use the Fox Edges Run Ring Kit with Camo Tubing, used this for years and ive fished it all ways...Zig, PVA Bag, Standard as it comes....Popnups, Wafters, Bottom Baits, dont think i will ever swap 👍👍
Matt, always such sound advice 🎉. I fish cats with a ceramic run rig system over rig Marole tubing. Maybe a dumb question but what is the advantage (if any) of an inline led system over a free running run rig? TIA.
Hi mate, I did test the Rig Marole tubing but I stopped using it for a number of reasons. Nowadays I prefer a soft lead free leader (Nash cling-on in 40lbs or 65lb for the cats). For me, the choice between inline and swivel based lead systems comes down to the choice of hooklink. I don’t like using supple materials (such as the 25 - 35lbs Armourlink) with a swivel based running lead. It's prone to tangling basically. I find an inline is better when working with supple materials. When I’m using heavy mono (0.50 - 60) heavy duty snag leader as a hooklink, then tangles aren't an issue so I can use whatever I need. I might still use an inline but if I’m doing short day sessions then inline leads are a pain so It’s quicker and easier to use a running ledger on a ring with a clip. Also, if fishing over rocks then I wouldn't use an inline as I need to create a rotten bottom using a swivel lead. This is my go-to, take anywhere setup for a running ledger: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?img_index=1 I hope that helps 👍
Hi mate, yes, as long as you are using a relatively thin leader material such as Nash cling-on 40lbs. The 65lb version changes the fit and it’s a bit tight. If you want to use a tell tale then use very thin braid/bait floss or thin mono. A thick tell tale will make the fit too tight.The new Nash leads come complete with a plastic insert and a tail rubber at the top. The tail rubber actually makes a very good little bump and run setup so you might not even need the inline lead insert. Be careful though. Only push it into the lead gently or it will be too tight. If you want to use big inline leads and cast them any distance (70 yards) then this will change the fit because the rubber will be drawn too deeply into the lead (on the cast) and be too hard to shake out. Hope that makes sense!
Virtually no-one float fishes for carp here. I only know two anglers in 13 years that have done it and been successful. I used to love float fishing for carp (it’s how I started!) but it’s not something I've done for years. The last time I float fished at the lake was for roach. Great fun too.
What size is the inline lead on the last method? I was thinking of using a 4oz so the heavy weight helps set the hook on pick up and then helps drop the lead from the tail rubber quickly?
Hi mate, in this video I used either 3 or 3.5oz leads. With these trick running inline rigs, I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp. Watch this video to understand how it works: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.htmlsi=lJdozKYCeRzTzdbb Personally, I would only use a 4oz lead with a 3.5oz TC rod and I’d only do it if I had to drop rigs from a rowing boat in high winds. You do not need 4oz leads to catch carp in still water in most circumstances.
I have fished running leads for 15 years and encouraged all my guests to do the same. I used to worry about having some kind of bump/shock effect with all my running lead systems but in more recent years I’ve realised that you don’t actually need to do this. Since I made this video, I’ve mostly fished pure running leads, no shock effect and I’ve caught loads of carp. It’s a myth that you absolutely need to create a bolt effect. It’s just not necessary with a nice sharp hook 😉
I tried the tail rubber and tubing approach. First time of using it, first take, the fish shook the lead, great, the lead slid up the tubing and off the end, great, but…….then onto normal mono, the lead got caught, and the angle from from rod to the lead, then to the carp taking line was enough the cut through the line and a lost fish. The inside of the leads, especially around the top hole is very sharp. This caused the cut off. I’ve now gone back to my first option with the insert and tubing on the top, and squeezing the swivel so it sits nicely in the lead insert. Initially I really liked the tail rubber approach. Not now……..
Hmmm… that’s surprising. I’ve run some tests of bare mainline on a bare inline lead (insert removed) with a razor sharp edge, using 0.23 to 0.37 mono and I can’t get it to fail even when I apply lateral load of 3 to 4lbs.
Hi mate, I understand your concern but anglers have been using these simple inline running lead systems like this for 13 years at my lake with zero issues. Water is a natural lubricant and the leads run up and down the mainline under water without causing any damage whatsoever.
Hi, I don’t use crimps and I don't trust them because I’ve seen too many failures at my lake (we have cats to 135 lbs!) I would never advocate using silicon on a piece of terminal tackle that you intend to cast into a lake or river because it’s a pollutant.
Water is 800 times denser that air, so the demonstration of the swinging lead at the start, isn’t representative of the under water environment, and of course, this overall observation is purely anecdotal, ie, you don’t have any footage that supports this perspective 👍
Absolute rubbish its anecdotal. There is a ton of videos out there showing the lead swinging. Might not be as free as he is showing but he's 100% correct. Here we have a guy giving an amazingly clear example yet you just have to don't you? You're the problem with the human race.
All I know is we've been catching carp since the early 80s on a split cane rod and a Mitchell match reel with an Arlesey bomb on and a standard hair rig simplicity in itself back in the day obviously times change my gear has improved significantly but I'm still not convinced of the need for this level of scientific tripe just my opinion I heard a top korda angler say recently how he cuts the ring off a ring swivel due to weight saving rig mechanics 😅😅😅 never heard anything so ludicrous
I don’t think he’s actually trying to show you exactly what happens under water, just emphasising what happens when you use a standard inline lead and the potential of indication. Vs if you tweak things a little, you can make something more sensitive or tweak towards your fishing needs. Common sense would dictate, having a weight that is supported, to a degree this happens in water - you can use momentum and inertia to get you out of a situation. Now, I’m not a fish but I’m sure where waters have seen hookbaits, it would be foolish to assume that certain fish haven’t got wise or learned tricks to slip the hooks every now and then. All this shows is that you can have the same rig but limit the ability to use any advantage or present something in practice that looks the same but in mechanics or application is different. I like this method, been a huge fan. Not for anything mentioned in this video, but for me, I see a world of bolt rigs. This is semi fixed and I love the idea of a more sensitive set up, giving me more signs that I’ve got something and less option for the fish to use my rig against me. But, that’s just me. Fishing is horses for courses. Personally, if I could get away with it everytime, running rig and a simple hair rig for me.
Not saying you're wrong but he clearly demonstrated that his methods make the swivel exit the lead easier than the traditional way. So obviously if it's working better in air it will also do so under water as well
Hi mate, it depends... If I'm using solid PVA bags, the lead would go inside the bag. If I'm using PVA mesh, then I'm happy for the PVA mesh and lead to remain separate. I think in this video, we photographed the bag separately from the lead because I was doing a parachute bag at the time.
Korda says use two beads and a tapered sleeve? I think it doesn’t work properly with Korda dark matter fused leaders as it doesn’t always run through the other tapered end ? Think it’s best with lead free braided leader , because you know it will run freely.
Hi mate, not sure what you are referring to re. Korda. I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!) Nowdays I use the Nash Cling-on (40lbs) which is a lead free leader material that’s very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler yes I’m going for that. Once the lead hits that fused leader the fish can twist away off the hook ? I keep getting done with the fused leaders for some reason
@@CB-zr9fi Hmm, at that distance I’m not sure that the carp could use the weight of the lead against you but it’s never a good idea to have a restriction such as this on an inline line anyway so it’s a problem that needs addressing. You could just drill out the lead to make the hole larger. As long as it flies over the loop, the problem should go away. If you are still getting done then it can only be down to the hook or the rig (potentially both). As long as you are using the exact components that I use in any of my rig videos, and the rig suits the type of fishing you are doing and you are inspecting/changing your hooks very regularly then there shouldn't be an issue.
You can use this with the deadly D-Rig but only when fishing over a really hard gravel spot. When I’m using the deadly D-rig I normally use a swivel based running lead system (there’s a video due out on this soon). With inline leads, I mostly use supple braided rigs made from 25lbs Armourlink as they sit nicely over any substrate (soft or hard).
I see some mad shit in here. I lay money that we could go to a lake. You can all use these new rigs, weights and methods and I lay money if catch more then you all with the old ways. Running free rig. There should be no resistance on the line. If the fish feels resistance it will spit the bait straight out. A lot of fisherman don’t even know how to tie the hair rig properly lol. It’s shocking some of the stuff I see. I’m 37 and have fished since I was about 6. Old ways are always the best
The leader I’m using in this video is Nash Cling-on (40lbs). It’s a lead free leader material that is very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice. I no longer use leadcore in my fishing.
@@invaliduser1111 You can use an inline lead over any bottom type as long as you use the right hooklink. For hard gravel spots I use a semi stiff mono rig (such as my deadly D-rig: ua-cam.com/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/v-deo.htmlsi=d54WqXeUZfQNIpwi) But a supple rig like this also works: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.htmlsi=kbpb2aqcTYI1Xz_H For softer spots, inline leads still work and I tend to use a supple rig. Semi stiff mono rigs can be made to work over softer spots with inline leads if you use a relatively small lead (2oz - 50g)
I get your point but you haven't taken into account of the water resistance on the main line an as someone else pointed out, water is denser than air so the rig wont act the same in the water
Yes, I was free swinging the lead a bit enthusiastically lol and it’ll behave differently in water but the result is the same. If you watch the underwater films, you see the leads thrown out like this.
We’ve been using in-line leads at the fishery for 14 years and I’ve not once seen an instance where the lead has caused abrasion damage to the mainline. Lead is quite a soft material so there’s nothing to worry about on that front. Obviously that doesn't mean to say you shouldn't check your mainline regularly for damage. Our venue is a bit rocky and damages the mainline quite quickly so cutting back the damaged line is a regular thing anyway. Swapping to a swivel based lead system does not solve the line damage problem, so it’s got nothing to do with the inline leads.
Yes, absolutely. Carp of any size can use the weight of the lead to throw the hook out. Don’t confuse a hook pull with the carp getting away with it before you even pick up the rod. For me they are two separate scenarios.
@@rickphillips5098 Hi Rick, I’m against dumping leads in any situation, it’s expensive, wasteful and bad for the environment. It’s also unnecessary unless the weed is very bad. I’ve been using running leads and barbless hooks for years and so have my customers. If the hook is sharp, then you will not suffer hook pulls on barbless hooks. Here’s some more videos to watch on that subject: ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.htmlsi=Yze-lSevbEN4t3wU ua-cam.com/video/v4CFoheE1S8/v-deo.htmlsi=_CxPsbDBsTXfiC4j
tried this in my fish tank and the lead doesnt drop off very easy when submerged, obviously gravity is doing its work out of the water which makes it drop in 1 or 2 shakes like yours in this video but in the water its a different case mate.
Hi mate, I get what you're saying, that's because there are differences of fit depending on the exact materials you use so it’s a good idea to test the combination before fishing. The setups I show in the video have been working for me and many hundreds of guests over 14 years at my lake so I’ve got total confidence in them.
You're putting the swivel in too far, you only put in the first eye, not the barrel and second eye. This way the lead stil sets the hook and then the swivel will come out first head shake every time, falling to the floor and becoming free running. There's is no need to screw around with the swivel or the lead. You've just massively overcomplicated fixing this.
Yes you can just nip a swivel into the end of the plastic insert but it’s only okay to do so if you are lowering a rig down onto a soft spot, at close range using a bait boat, bushwacker or rowing boat (or if you are fishing at half a wrap). If you do as you suggest, when you cast the lead, it will be forced much tighter onto the swivel and change the way it works. It gets even worse if you are casting onto a rock hard spot as the swivel will get smashed into the rocks/gravel first. It’s much safer to use one of the other options I’ve suggested 👍
Too bad that using it naked, it will ruin your line cause the inside of the inline lead is rough.. I just use the drop off inline leads. Is it expensive? Yes but I’m sure it gets off with the shakes of the head. There is no point having the lead swinging up and down the line apart the money side so… and as previously said, the inside of the lead isn’t smooth as the outside so it will ruin the line and in the worst case, even cut it. If not using the specific drop off leads, you can make the classic inline one by going outside of it with your main line and just having the swivel holding on to it which then will come out with the firsts shakes..🤷🏽♂️
I have tested for line damage on inline leads used 'naked' with a range of different leads from different brands in varying conditions from brand new and absolutely battered. I also used a range of mainline right down to super fine 0.25 zig mono. In every case there were zero issues. Inline leads don’t damage the mainline in any situation, and I’ve been fishing with them like this for 20 years.
You don't lose the lead with a running rig, if you want to know more about why they are so effective, watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html
Total disagree I use inline leads in all my fishing in PVA bags just shorten the hooking when you see this type of demo the hooklink is also to big dropping the lead is not always affordable and doesn't always work shorter hooklink around 4" always works for me
I know it's difficult to believe if it's not something you've experienced. It's happened a few times with guests at my lake who were equally disbelieving, but that was the reality and it had nothing to do with their alarms. Underwater videos have shown plenty of times what the carp can do to our leads.
Fantastic video Matt, been thinking about this stuff a lot over the last year since your running rig video and I'm so glad you made a full video on the topic. I've found lots of problems when using a squeezed-down swivel, bead, etc, because even if you press the lead into it with the right amount of force on the bank, a hard cast at long range can press it in even further and it again becomes a semi-fixed rig. I haven't ever seen those inline inserts you used around the 16 minute mark, but I'm in love! You can't overpress them so this issue is resolved even on the longest of casts. Thanks so much for the idea!
Great to hear that mate. Those little inserts are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts. They weren't designed for what I'm doing here, they're designed for use with a drop-off style inline lead, but they work great like this! And they solve this change of fit issue on a big cast with a big lead 👍
This is a cracking bit of advice. I think I would grease my anti tangle sleeves with a bit of hemp oil to make sure the inline flies off on first shake 👍🎣🐟
Great advice. Last year i used a similar setup with pva bag stems. You can drill out the inline lead so the stem pops out with a known force turning the rig into a running rig when the carp shakes its head. It also works with tubing.
Cool, great solution 👍
I’ve noticed Korda dark matter leaders stop the leads at the fused end part. I think I’ve lost fish because of this ? Also issues with pva tape stopping the lead running ? How tight should the clutch be ? I’m not sure it should be super tight ?
@@CB-zr9fi Hi mate, I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!). I know that certain makes of PVA are slow to melt (especially in cold weather). I’ve been using the Nash fast melt for a few years now and I’d never had an issue with PVA “snot” but then again my rigs do stay in the water for quite a while. I set my clutch to deliver 1 - 2lbs of force to the rig but to do this you need a really solid bankside setup. Just set it so that even with a really savage take the rod does not go in. Hope that helps, Cheers, Matt.
Thanks for the advice Matt with the shot of the camera next to the rod I tried turning the sensitivity up on the delcim when I new the fish were going sideways and managed to solve the problem but i will still use your tip!
I use inline flatbed feeders for tench a lot. I now carefully see how snug the fit is with the swivel. If needed (and so far it always is) I open up the inside of the insert so that after a maximum of three shakes the swivel comes loose. My hookup rate has increased as has my bite indication, I tend to use semislack lines. I think I have only had one fish pivot on me and give almost no indication, I suspect that the silkweed prevented the swivel from coming away easily. Some of the tench have no idea what to do once that hook is set and just sit there after a few beeps! Most give great runs and the swivel and feeder have separated. Anyway, once again great advice that with a little thought can be adapted to other species. You have really given me a lot to work with over this past year targeting tench. Thanks!
That's awesome to hear mate, yes, a lot of the work I do is applicable to other species, I've caught some big roach, rudd and chub on my carp rigs 👍
Plastic tulip beads with thick walled silicone tubing over the thinner part have done the business for me since the 80's, the silicone can be pushed together to make it harder to release or stretched to make it easier.
The tulip bead won't pull inside the lead like the swivel with an anti-tangle sleeve over it, someone could jam the swivel inside the lead doing this with a hard cast and potentially leave a fish trailing tackle with the lead still attached.
Cheers for that. There are various different ways of achieving this, these are the few that I'm familiar with.
Yep agree with that too similar principal once again no fandangled over the top science it just works and has stood the test of time
I always pinch down the swivel when using an inline lead. I like using the hermit rig when using inline leads. Good indication if youve been done too cause the maker elastic would be detached
I had one of my best 72 hour sessions using an inline lead set up in silt, short hook link and using stick. All the things you’re told not to do. I found that the hooking properties meant the takes was savage and they hooked quickly and bolted. They never moved let or right slowly as per the video. I had 7 fish, lost 2.
When you say short hook link are we talking around 3-4 inch?
Loving your channel Matthew, so many great tips, thanks! Would reducing the swivel size down to perhaps a size 12 so that it doesn't lock into the insert not solve the problem of the 'fixed lead' (just a thought). Scratch that thought, I should've watched the rest of the video clip first lol
😊👍
I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
Great to hear, thanks for sharing 👍
I was out Thursday Friday night and always fish bags drop off style but I was getting bream so switched to semi fixed. What your explaining now with the single beeps I thought may have been liners but as I was using semi fixed I could have been getting done. Great video mate 😁👍🏻
Cool mate, hopefully this gives you some options to try maybe on another session 👍
Thank you Matthew, this is super helpful. I'm off to France in a few weeks and was likely to use the 'classic' inline set up. Rules require tubing, so will certainly use the last option you demonstrated. Fingers crossed!
Cool, have a great trip mate 🇫🇷
Fantastic explained and demonstrated the safe way to use in-line lead set-ups great video set-ups that turn in to running rigs definitely carp more effective at catching carp 👍🏻🎣🎣🎣
Great to hear you're already a fan of these setups 😊
Hi Matt, another great vid and have tried this set-up and must say has worked a treat, thanks again.👍
Brilliant 👍
Great easy to follow instructional video....thankyou for doing this 👍👍👍
For anyone looking for an out of the box in-line system that works like @Matthew Collins exemplified, you can look for the Fox Edges Kling On leads and pair them with Fox Tadpole inserts.
The Tadpole insert allows for 2 types of fixation methods on the lead, one that is very stiff that sometimes doesn't properly eject the lead when the carp shakes and one that is semi-stiff which helps just enough with hooking but ejects when the carp shake.
Thanks for the tip 👍
What do you mean by the two types of fixation methods? How do you do one or the other, is it how hard you push it on or some other thing you have to do to switch between? I want to do the semi-stiff one which is just enough to hook, do I press it on lighter?
@@crazycarpguy1074 yeah, it is related to how deep you push the tadpole insert into the lead. If you push it lightly up to the first section(not going all the way through) it should behave like a shocker rig and release easily.
@@crazycarpguy1074 Hi. I use Fox inline leads with the tadpole inserts, they're are quite soft and supple unlike the hard inserts that come with the leads. There's soft flap of plastic near the base which pops the insert into the lead and stays there snuggly but will pop out easily when needed. The swivel from your hook link fits into the insert perfectly without being too tight and generally come out before the insert. The set up provides the perfect mechanics for a bolt effect which then becomes free running. I use PVA solid bags quite a lot and the tadpoles are perfect. You can even fit rig tubing into the end (cut the tubing on a slight angle and in it fits). Well worth a try.
Hi, can those tadpole inserts be used with a lead core leader?
thank you Matthew...you bring me back into my 90s as i started carp fishing...great.
Nice 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler i mean your ideas are in those times of carp "angling" really ESSENTIAL...
Great advice again thankyou Matt im not getting into the super science someone has commented about water being so many nano millions times denser blah blah im not clever enough to take on that dispute all i do know is when i use the inline insert or drill my leads so my pva bag stems work in the same way you demonstate with a single donk.....my pva fishing improved and my catch rate increased thats all i need to know secondly my opinion is i dont feel that carp fishing needs to get so scientific keep doing these vids a lot of us appreciate them
That's really great to hear mate, appreciate the feedback and support 👍 and I know a rig doesn't behave in the water as it does in the air, I was swinging it quite freely there lol, but the results are the same, and as you say, this works. And the underwater videos have shown us over the years what the carp can do to our leads!
@@matthewcollinsangler precisely
You should try how the “ carp catcher” does his shock and run inline lead set up best I’ve found , by far
Done this test myself. Fox alarm vs Delkim. Delkim picks up the slight movement due to the vibration.
I've used inline leads fairly similar to this since the late 90s but I put the tail rubber on first,slide the swivel into the rubber,put the tubing on and then slide the lead down on to the back of the tail rubber which fits lovely on most leads.
The carp comes in to contact with the lead setting the hook and then is almost free running instantly.
I don't use inline's for any distance fishing though so I can see the benefits of having some sort of tubing behind the lead if I did 👍
thank you so so much Matthew...... again time after time.... such amazing videos and knowledge ...thank you
Really great to hear mate, thanks 😊
Would there be any benefit to use a back lead with this system? Great video cheers
TBH mate it doesn't matter. You can use this lead system with a tight line, slack line, semi slack, or back lead.
Whatever i use, inline or leadclip, i modify it like that, just to have a free run.. stoper for inline, for leadclip i just sqeeze a bit the swiwel.
This is a great advice!
OK, good to hear 👍 You mention squeezing the swivel on a lead clip so that the lead clip body rides up the line, it’s something I would never do as it could be a safety risk, I talk about this in this video: ua-cam.com/video/a6WI6Y1o_Xk/v-deo.html
@@matthewcollinsangler do you do anything else to hinder the lead from moving up towards your rod and thus making drilling harder?
@@marcohundINV Hi, no I don't, you shouldn't put anything above the lead.
Loving in-line setups that are semi fixed in pva bags. Violent takes on a kd rig.
I’ve been also using running leads and German rigs.
Semi slack and it seems to work if you take time to sink the line.
The less complicated for the better.
I learned so much from you over the years. Love your videos.
Wouldn't pva bag stem work the same way? When carp lifts up the lead it creates lever and pressure on the hook, but if he starts moving it slides off the stem.
Thanks for the feedback mate.
So it all depends on the fit of the PVA bag stem. The ones I've seen are too tight a fit but if you can find one that works nicely or modify the diameter of the hole in the lead, then that's an option 👍
Added to matts reply I drill the inline lead until the stem just holds and loses grip with the familiar donk matt describes it works great pal
@Simon-ms6sb Yea same, i have leads and stems from avid carp and had to drill every lead to make them work as you described. (few min work) I was amazed by Matt answer because he nailed it.
In fact i dint do it for the better effect that Matt was talking about, i did it because it seemed unsafe for fish, lead was just too tight around the stem. But im glad i fish with bags right even if by luck.
@@Taurgar 🤣🤣 funny you say that I also found out by accident I like you really wasn't happy about how tight the stems stayed in my leads so drilled them out then once I'd done so it was a total fluke and I realised it works as matt describes
With regard to not pushing the tail rubber in too far, this may prove problematic when fishing at range as the thump of the cast and the hit of the line clip will both drive the tail rubber in further. Great for up to 50 yards or so, not sure if the lead will release as easy if cast at distance.
You are absolutely correct and that is why I began using the Nash inline lead inserts for this setup as the 90° shoulder prevents the insert being drawn into the lead and changing the delicate fit that I’m looking to achieve.
Whats the difference? It may be a little easier to shake off? Big wow
Hello Matt, as usual a great and interesting video. Since I was at Beausoleil, this has become my basic setup for the venues we fish at the moment. Thanks again for all your great advice. Btw: my buddy landed 2 weeks ago a very beautiful 20+kg fish using this system.
Wow, that's awesome 👏
Another great tutorial Matt, pleasure to watch. Take care 👍👍
Thanks very much mate 😊
Matt, how would you combine PVA bag quick change and the last rig tubing/ tail rubber setup in the video? Cheers. Appreciate your videos and already using some of your rigs as well as scaled down versions of your rigs for other course fishing.
Hi there, I don’t use and wouldn’t attempt to use solid PVA bags with rig tubing. It’s slow and complicated. If you have to use tubing, use a PVA stick 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler Thanks Matt, thought as much
I use fox inline leads with fox tadpole inserts ,great setup caught loads on it 🎣👍
Cool, that's been mentioned by a few people, good to know it works 👍
I use them too. They do exactly what you want, great bit of kit!
hi, great vid! my question is does the running element of the rig cause problems with resetting if you get done by a carp? will the next fish to come along wont have the weight of the lead to drive the hook into the bottom lid?
If you get picked up and rejected, then this is a sign that something wasn't quite right in the first place. Sure, you might just have been unlucky (it happens to all of us!) and if it happens the risk of the hook point being damaged is very high and therefore the chance of getting a 2nd chance is low. If I get a flurry of bleeps and then nothing happens, I’ll leave it for maybe 10 minutes, then wind it in and have another go.
I don’t rely on the weight of the lead to do the hooking for me so I don’t worry about things like this. I know many anglers expect the lead to do the hooking for them but that’s not the way I engineer my rigs because the carp will use the weight of the lead against me.
Hope that helps!
@@matthewcollinsangler interesting, thanks
Are you able to show us any tips and tricks for splicing leaders? i have the 40lb cling on nash and i am struggling to splice any help would be greatful
Hi mate, I've done a full video on leaders: ua-cam.com/video/WiqE4u35MK8/v-deo.html. About 5mns in, I show how to splice the Nash cling on leader, I get on very well with it so hopefully this will help you out 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler I have no idea how i ever missed this video from you thank you exactly what i was looking for!
@@barbyizbeast 😊 👍
Great video as ever! Do you think the force of the cast pulls the insert in tighter in some circumstances and makes it more difficult for it to pull out when you get a take?
Yes, it's a problem if you use the silicon tail rubber. To avoid this problem, use the Nash tungsten inline lead insert (it has a shoulder which stops it from being pulled in) 👍
I.ve learned so much from you, cant thank you enough, sir! Had a day ticket today and put 3 carp just under 15lb on the mat along with maybe 15 more fish around 6-7lb mark (aparently the biggest fish in the lake is 24lb or so, so im quite proud of myself). Tied up some rigs like you did in a recent video and im sold, thats my go-to from now on, thank you!
However, as someone slowly transitioning from coarse fishing towards the speci..I would like to know more about how you go about prepping your baits. Do you use the same boilies for the feed as well as hookbaits (maybe just flavoured differently?). Im just a bit confused as I didnt really see ' bottom hook boilies' at my local tackle shop..just wafters and pop ups..which im slowly getting tired of😬 thanks!
Hi mate, glad you’ve been able to use some of my tips and congrats on your recent successes 👏. There’s no need to make carp fishing any more complicated than it needs to be. I just use a good quality boilie for both jobs, feed and hookbait. Scopex Squid has caught me hundreds of carp over the years and that’s pretty much all I use. With a high quality food bait like this you don’t need to use it in large volumes unless you are fishing in flowing water. To keep costs down, make up some PVA stringers for whole baits or crush it down to make a crumb stick. I also like to dip it in some Scopex Squid spod syrup for extra attraction but it’s optional because the carp love the bait as is. Hope that helps. Cheers, Matt.
Good advice. However squishing the eye of the swivel just slightly won’t create a pure running rig and solves the problem.
I just make the original inside plastic of the inline lead a bit thinner. Do it with a sharp knive end I get the same result. Little shake and the lead is off.
I've found alot of the time losing fish is down to the weight of the lead and length of hooklength.I was recently using 1oz (normally use heavier),lost 3 fish in a row,switched to a 2.5oz and landed 8 straight.Also find running leads better in shallow water and drop offs better in deeper water.Used to use inlines alot but hardly use them at all these days.
This is a little over complicated, IMHO, however, it does start you thinking.
I just drilled out my leads with a 5.5mm and 3,5mm drill bit and then used a tidy boom. This works perfectly, and I have found two different types, Flouro and Metal. I tend to use the Gemini Tidy booms as they are Flouro and more flexible.
As an added one, and to reduce costs, you could also use a XL anti-snag as shown in this video.
Tight Lines Anglers
Matt, great video as usual. What are those inline lead inserts you are using towards the end of the video, and where can I buy them. Best, Leigh.
Hi Leigh, they are the Nash tungsten inline lead inserts: www.nashtackle.co.uk/en/tackle/terminal-tackle/lead-clips-lead-attachement/tungsten-inline-lead-insert-1/
I have though about a running rig using this system but use 1 or 2lb line like the hermit rig, carp picks it up, the 1 or 2lb breaks and it becomes a running rig but has been strong enough to set the rig.
I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp, I’m using the elasticity of the mono and the power of the semi tight clutch: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html. In my experience, if the shock effect is too great, the carp will use the weight of the lead to eject the rig anyway.
I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp, I’m using the elasticity in the mon and my semi tight clutch, here’s how it works: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html.
I use the Fox Edges Run Ring Kit with Camo Tubing, used this for years and ive fished it all ways...Zig, PVA Bag, Standard as it comes....Popnups, Wafters, Bottom Baits, dont think i will ever swap 👍👍
Good stuff 👍
Matt, always such sound advice 🎉. I fish cats with a ceramic run rig system over rig Marole tubing. Maybe a dumb question but what is the advantage (if any) of an inline led system over a free running run rig? TIA.
Hi mate, I did test the Rig Marole tubing but I stopped using it for a number of reasons. Nowadays I prefer a soft lead free leader (Nash cling-on in 40lbs or 65lb for the cats). For me, the choice between inline and swivel based lead systems comes down to the choice of hooklink. I don’t like using supple materials (such as the 25 - 35lbs Armourlink) with a swivel based running lead. It's prone to tangling basically. I find an inline is better when working with supple materials. When I’m using heavy mono (0.50 - 60) heavy duty snag leader as a hooklink, then tangles aren't an issue so I can use whatever I need. I might still use an inline but if I’m doing short day sessions then inline leads are a pain so It’s quicker and easier to use a running ledger on a ring with a clip. Also, if fishing over rocks then I wouldn't use an inline as I need to create a rotten bottom using a swivel lead. This is my go-to, take anywhere setup for a running ledger: instagram.com/p/CsoJFuBMfH7/?img_index=1
I hope that helps 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks so much, appreciated
Matt do you know if the nash inserts fit into the new nash inline leads?
Hi mate, yes, as long as you are using a relatively thin leader material such as Nash cling-on 40lbs. The 65lb version changes the fit and it’s a bit tight. If you want to use a tell tale then use very thin braid/bait floss or thin mono. A thick tell tale will make the fit too tight.The new Nash leads come complete with a plastic insert and a tail rubber at the top. The tail rubber actually makes a very good little bump and run setup so you might not even need the inline lead insert. Be careful though. Only push it into the lead gently or it will be too tight. If you want to use big inline leads and cast them any distance (70 yards) then this will change the fit because the rubber will be drawn too deeply into the lead (on the cast) and be too hard to shake out. Hope that makes sense!
@@matthewcollinsangler thanks mate, makes perfect sense as always 👍🏻
Hello Matt. Do you happen to do any float fishing on your lake Matt?
Virtually no-one float fishes for carp here. I only know two anglers in 13 years that have done it and been successful. I used to love float fishing for carp (it’s how I started!) but it’s not something I've done for years. The last time I float fished at the lake was for roach. Great fun too.
So what setup do you tend to use inline lead or swivel lead running rig thanks
It depends what I'm doing, here's a quick overview: ua-cam.com/users/shorts24xzm6I5gWk?feature=share
What size is the inline lead on the last method? I was thinking of using a 4oz so the heavy weight helps set the hook on pick up and then helps drop the lead from the tail rubber quickly?
Hi mate, in this video I used either 3 or 3.5oz leads. With these trick running inline rigs, I’m not using the weight of the lead to hook the carp. Watch this video to understand how it works: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.htmlsi=lJdozKYCeRzTzdbb
Personally, I would only use a 4oz lead with a 3.5oz TC rod and I’d only do it if I had to drop rigs from a rowing boat in high winds. You do not need 4oz leads to catch carp in still water in most circumstances.
Ello mate hoping for a reply I’m trying to use a similar method to the insert for the online lead but I’d love to know this little insert
Hi mate, it's the Nash inline lead insert.
Seems like there is always going to be a trade off of bite detection/lead being shaken free vs bolt effect from the lead?
I have fished running leads for 15 years and encouraged all my guests to do the same. I used to worry about having some kind of bump/shock effect with all my running lead systems but in more recent years I’ve realised that you don’t actually need to do this. Since I made this video, I’ve mostly fished pure running leads, no shock effect and I’ve caught loads of carp. It’s a myth that you absolutely need to create a bolt effect. It’s just not necessary with a nice sharp hook 😉
I tried the tail rubber and tubing approach. First time of using it, first take, the fish shook the lead, great, the lead slid up the tubing and off the end, great, but…….then onto normal mono, the lead got caught, and the angle from from rod to the lead, then to the carp taking line was enough the cut through the line and a lost fish. The inside of the leads, especially around the top hole is very sharp. This caused the cut off. I’ve now gone back to my first option with the insert and tubing on the top, and squeezing the swivel so it sits nicely in the lead insert. Initially I really liked the tail rubber approach. Not now……..
Hmmm… that’s surprising. I’ve run some tests of bare mainline on a bare inline lead (insert removed) with a razor sharp edge, using 0.23 to 0.37 mono and I can’t get it to fail even when I apply lateral load of 3 to 4lbs.
@@matthewcollinsangleryes I saw that. Weird Matt. It happened the first time I tried the tail rubber approach. Coincidence maybe then ??
@@fishyfish06 Could be that your mainline was already damaged or weakened…
Matt, what would you do if a lake bans all leaders and says the lead must detach from the line under light pressure?
Hi mate, in that situation, use the Nash run clip: ua-cam.com/video/cCpL6AdceOw/v-deo.html
Can you fish it as a naked set up?
@@richardsnape1025 Yes
if i use a standard run rig and use the tension in line and reel clutch to set the hook, would it still be ok to use back leads? Thanks
Sure, I do this a lot. I prefer to use a lightweight 15g backlead and slide it out 5 - 6m so it’s not putting a big angle in the line 👍
Great video… that would explain my poor bite indication and striking into nothin!
Yes, it would, hopefully the video gives you a few setups to try 😊
@@matthewcollinsangler I have to use tubing so it’ll be the last one… thanks again
@@Matt-nd2cu No worries, I have another design of inline lead with rig tubing that's better and the video on that will be out in September.
@@matthewcollinsangler 👍🏻 nice one
This may sound stupid but would that not damage the mainline when it brushes against the bare lead
Hi mate, I understand your concern but anglers have been using these simple inline running lead systems like this for 13 years at my lake with zero issues. Water is a natural lubricant and the leads run up and down the mainline under water without causing any damage whatsoever.
Could you just crimp and use a silicon spray on the round flat part of the swivel
Hi, I don’t use crimps and I don't trust them because I’ve seen too many failures at my lake (we have cats to 135 lbs!) I would never advocate using silicon on a piece of terminal tackle that you intend to cast into a lake or river because it’s a pollutant.
Water is 800 times denser that air, so the demonstration of the swinging lead at the start, isn’t representative of the under water environment, and of course, this overall observation is purely anecdotal, ie, you don’t have any footage that supports this perspective 👍
Exactly
Dr carp forgot it works different under water 😅
Absolute rubbish its anecdotal. There is a ton of videos out there showing the lead swinging. Might not be as free as he is showing but he's 100% correct.
Here we have a guy giving an amazingly clear example yet you just have to don't you? You're the problem with the human race.
All I know is we've been catching carp since the early 80s on a split cane rod and a Mitchell match reel with an Arlesey bomb on and a standard hair rig simplicity in itself back in the day obviously times change my gear has improved significantly but I'm still not convinced of the need for this level of scientific tripe just my opinion I heard a top korda angler say recently how he cuts the ring off a ring swivel due to weight saving rig mechanics 😅😅😅 never heard anything so ludicrous
I don’t think he’s actually trying to show you exactly what happens under water, just emphasising what happens when you use a standard inline lead and the potential of indication. Vs if you tweak things a little, you can make something more sensitive or tweak towards your fishing needs.
Common sense would dictate, having a weight that is supported, to a degree this happens in water - you can use momentum and inertia to get you out of a situation. Now, I’m not a fish but I’m sure where waters have seen hookbaits, it would be foolish to assume that certain fish haven’t got wise or learned tricks to slip the hooks every now and then.
All this shows is that you can have the same rig but limit the ability to use any advantage or present something in practice that looks the same but in mechanics or application is different.
I like this method, been a huge fan. Not for anything mentioned in this video, but for me, I see a world of bolt rigs. This is semi fixed and I love the idea of a more sensitive set up, giving me more signs that I’ve got something and less option for the fish to use my rig against me.
But, that’s just me. Fishing is horses for courses. Personally, if I could get away with it everytime, running rig and a simple hair rig for me.
Not saying you're wrong but he clearly demonstrated that his methods make the swivel exit the lead easier than the traditional way. So obviously if it's working better in air it will also do so under water as well
Can i ask what silicone tubing did you use for inserting into the inline lead please?
Hi, you can use any rig tubing you like as long as it's compatible with the tail rubber 😊
Hi matt. i see you put the inline lead outside of pva bag. do you always do this?
Hi mate, it depends... If I'm using solid PVA bags, the lead would go inside the bag. If I'm using PVA mesh, then I'm happy for the PVA mesh and lead to remain separate. I think in this video, we photographed the bag separately from the lead because I was doing a parachute bag at the time.
Can you do these test in a tank of water
Sure but I've been testing these in my fishing for the last 15 years, guests at my lake use them every week and they work great 😊
@ not doubting that all just think lead out of water is different reaction to one in a tank or lake or pond etc
Korda says use two beads and a tapered sleeve? I think it doesn’t work properly with Korda dark matter fused leaders as it doesn’t always run through the other tapered end ? Think it’s best with lead free braided leader , because you know it will run freely.
Hi mate, not sure what you are referring to re. Korda. I don’t use the Korda fused leaders anymore but when I did I remember them to be quite stiff so I can see that on certain leads this could be a major problem if they won’t pass cleaning over the fused loop at the end (very dangerous!) Nowdays I use the Nash Cling-on (40lbs) which is a lead free leader material that’s very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice 👍
@@matthewcollinsangler yes I’m going for that. Once the lead hits that fused leader the fish can twist away off the hook ? I keep getting done with the fused leaders for some reason
@@CB-zr9fi Hmm, at that distance I’m not sure that the carp could use the weight of the lead against you but it’s never a good idea to have a restriction such as this on an inline line anyway so it’s a problem that needs addressing. You could just drill out the lead to make the hole larger. As long as it flies over the loop, the problem should go away. If you are still getting done then it can only be down to the hook or the rig (potentially both). As long as you are using the exact components that I use in any of my rig videos, and the rig suits the type of fishing you are doing and you are inspecting/changing your hooks very regularly then there shouldn't be an issue.
So is this the inline lead sytem you use with the deadly D-Rig?
You can use this with the deadly D-Rig but only when fishing over a really hard gravel spot. When I’m using the deadly D-rig I normally use a swivel based running lead system (there’s a video due out on this soon). With inline leads, I mostly use supple braided rigs made from 25lbs Armourlink as they sit nicely over any substrate (soft or hard).
Brilliant Matt thanks 🎉
Thanks for the feedback mate 😊
I see some mad shit in here. I lay money that we could go to a lake. You can all use these new rigs, weights and methods and I lay money if catch more then you all with the old ways. Running free rig. There should be no resistance on the line. If the fish feels resistance it will spit the bait straight out. A lot of fisherman don’t even know how to tie the hair rig properly lol. It’s shocking some of the stuff I see. I’m 37 and have fished since I was about 6. Old ways are always the best
This bloke only realised he was doing his rig hooks wrong after 20 years 🤣🤣🤣🤣
I normally crimp the swivel in to get the sweet spot where a head shake releases the lead but might try the tail rubber trick.
Cool 👍
For what is actually that leadcore ?
The leader I’m using in this video is Nash Cling-on (40lbs). It’s a lead free leader material that is very supple, very abrasion resistant and easy to splice. I no longer use leadcore in my fishing.
@@matthewcollinsangler Didn't know there was a difference. Is it reccomended by you to use it on a gravil-rich area?
@@invaliduser1111 You can use an inline lead over any bottom type as long as you use the right hooklink. For hard gravel spots I use a semi stiff mono rig (such as my deadly D-rig: ua-cam.com/video/Rr4paU5B_r4/v-deo.htmlsi=d54WqXeUZfQNIpwi)
But a supple rig like this also works: ua-cam.com/video/7VlmNHg0BD0/v-deo.htmlsi=kbpb2aqcTYI1Xz_H
For softer spots, inline leads still work and I tend to use a supple rig. Semi stiff mono rigs can be made to work over softer spots with inline leads if you use a relatively small lead (2oz - 50g)
I get your point but you haven't taken into account of the water resistance on the main line an as someone else pointed out, water is denser than air so the rig wont act the same in the water
Yes, I was free swinging the lead a bit enthusiastically lol and it’ll behave differently in water but the result is the same. If you watch the underwater films, you see the leads thrown out like this.
Surely the abrasive edges from the lead would damage the mono over time.
We’ve been using in-line leads at the fishery for 14 years and I’ve not once seen an instance where the lead has caused abrasion damage to the mainline. Lead is quite a soft material so there’s nothing to worry about on that front. Obviously that doesn't mean to say you shouldn't check your mainline regularly for damage. Our venue is a bit rocky and damages the mainline quite quickly so cutting back the damaged line is a regular thing anyway. Swapping to a swivel based lead system does not solve the line damage problem, so it’s got nothing to do with the inline leads.
Do big fish actually use the weight to remove the hook ? Or is fish lost due to poor hook hold in a large soft mouth? Basically a tear out !!
Yes, absolutely. Carp of any size can use the weight of the lead to throw the hook out. Don’t confuse a hook pull with the carp getting away with it before you even pick up the rod. For me they are two separate scenarios.
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you , would you suggest dropping the weight when having to use barbless hooks ?
@@rickphillips5098 Hi Rick, I’m against dumping leads in any situation, it’s expensive, wasteful and bad for the environment. It’s also unnecessary unless the weed is very bad. I’ve been using running leads and barbless hooks for years and so have my customers. If the hook is sharp, then you will not suffer hook pulls on barbless hooks. Here’s some more videos to watch on that subject:
ua-cam.com/video/yPDZV9xY_UA/v-deo.htmlsi=Yze-lSevbEN4t3wU
ua-cam.com/video/v4CFoheE1S8/v-deo.htmlsi=_CxPsbDBsTXfiC4j
@@matthewcollinsangler thank you i will have a look . Knowledge is power and using yours im very greatfull for .
where do i get this beads you show us at Minute 16:30? i only find one from Fox but thats fox and i dont like this brand :D
Hi mate, I believe you are referring to the Nash Tungsten inline lead insert. They work well with the Nash and Korda leads but not the Fox ones 👍
But they still have the length of the rig around the lead just as they would with a lead clip it all comes down to what way they dart off
wow just what i was after on a very hard mere im fishing
Cool 😊
tried this in my fish tank and the lead doesnt drop off very easy when submerged, obviously gravity is doing its work out of the water which makes it drop in 1 or 2 shakes like yours in this video but in the water its a different case mate.
Hi mate, I get what you're saying, that's because there are differences of fit depending on the exact materials you use so it’s a good idea to test the combination before fishing. The setups I show in the video have been working for me and many hundreds of guests over 14 years at my lake so I’ve got total confidence in them.
Why do people always go for big weights then even if they are not fishing far out
It’s a common misconception that you need big leads to hook a carp. I happily use a 1 or 1.5oz running lead for fishing at short range.
Done this for a while ..I use tulip beads not a buffer ...
Sure, that's another good option 👍
What brand is the veined rubber lead insert. Thanks
It's the Nash tungsten inline lead insert: www.nashtackle.co.uk/en/tackle/terminal-tackle/lead-clips-lead-attachement/tungsten-inline-lead-insert-1/
You're putting the swivel in too far, you only put in the first eye, not the barrel and second eye. This way the lead stil sets the hook and then the swivel will come out first head shake every time, falling to the floor and becoming free running. There's is no need to screw around with the swivel or the lead. You've just massively overcomplicated fixing this.
Been doing it like this for the last 15 years
Great to hear, I made the switch about a dozen years ago and these setups have been very popular with my guests as well.
Anyone got a good quick change pva bad video new to fishing
Hi mate, here's a full detailed video on my PVA bag rig: ua-cam.com/video/TPCvErlGGZ0/v-deo.html
See your nash t-shirt has done the same as mine the neck stretches out but the body and arms shrink
or could u just not shove the swivel in so far into the led so its not as hard to pull it out but really good tip anyway
Yes you can just nip a swivel into the end of the plastic insert but it’s only okay to do so if you are lowering a rig down onto a soft spot, at close range using a bait boat, bushwacker or rowing boat (or if you are fishing at half a wrap). If you do as you suggest, when you cast the lead, it will be forced much tighter onto the swivel and change the way it works. It gets even worse if you are casting onto a rock hard spot as the swivel will get smashed into the rocks/gravel first. It’s much safer to use one of the other options I’ve suggested 👍
Too bad that using it naked, it will ruin your line cause the inside of the inline lead is rough.. I just use the drop off inline leads. Is it expensive? Yes but I’m sure it gets off with the shakes of the head. There is no point having the lead swinging up and down the line apart the money side so… and as previously said, the inside of the lead isn’t smooth as the outside so it will ruin the line and in the worst case, even cut it. If not using the specific drop off leads, you can make the classic inline one by going outside of it with your main line and just having the swivel holding on to it which then will come out with the firsts shakes..🤷🏽♂️
I have tested for line damage on inline leads used 'naked' with a range of different leads from different brands in varying conditions from brand new and absolutely battered. I also used a range of mainline right down to super fine 0.25 zig mono. In every case there were zero issues. Inline leads don’t damage the mainline in any situation, and I’ve been fishing with them like this for 20 years.
So if you get a bite and it don’t hook, you’ve lost your chance because you’ve lost your lead weight to hook the fish with
You don't lose the lead with a running rig, if you want to know more about why they are so effective, watch this video: ua-cam.com/video/ckzalwJuh0c/v-deo.html
You try to get an edge in carp fishing! And then someone plasters it all over UA-cam 😂😂😂
Oops sorry mate 😂😂!
Total disagree I use inline leads in all my fishing in PVA bags just shorten the hooking when you see this type of demo the hooklink is also to big dropping the lead is not always affordable and doesn't always work shorter hooklink around 4" always works for me
Never heard so much shit lol. I use inclines with iq2 and a Ronnie. Out of my last 10 bites I've had 1 hook pull
Bloke talks absolute bollocks 30m away lmao noddy
Carp move the bait 30 yards and no indication ? I suggest you put new batteries in your alarms. What a load of 💩
I know it's difficult to believe if it's not something you've experienced. It's happened a few times with guests at my lake who were equally disbelieving, but that was the reality and it had nothing to do with their alarms. Underwater videos have shown plenty of times what the carp can do to our leads.
First 3 minutes and I've never heard this much dribble in my life. zzzzz zzzzz zzzzz zzzzzz cancel
this it went on even longer.