Yea, it runs faster on gas than on diesel! haha. If you want to increase your gas cycle speed, put a thin washer under the big flat washer in the carb.
I have a rough ud 18. I have a question for you Farmall Doctor. My original starter is bad. Yours looks new. Where would I find a replacement the proper size? This seems to be an odd shape from what local repair place tells me.
On my ud 18 i just got i am not getting fire i have checked the obvious points, etc the lever that changes over from gas to diesel is relatively smooth there is no snap or any noise when engaging if i have read right there should be a noticeable noise when engaging is that correct
Correct. It should take some force to push the lever to go to gas cycle and it will click in. Then the lever is free to move easily back until the end of the stroke to trip the mechanism to switch to diesel.
@@oldhawksigns9885 if the starting valves are stuck open in the heads that will cause no resistance in moving the lever. Remove the valve covers to make sure that they are not stuck. There should be minimal clearance between the actuator arms and the valve caps. If they are stuck, you have to remove the rocker assemblies, valve caps, soak liberally, and use NEW vise-grips to get them moving. You "may" be able to observe some of the valves through the spark plug holes. If it sat a long time while on gas cycle they are likely stuck. Have had good luck getting them loosened up with vise-grips and tapping with a small hammer.
Farmall Doctor thanks for your help i got my ud 18 running on gas and runs great but the air valve i believe is stuck because the linkage that comes thru the head is working but my problem is when i took the top off of the air valve housing nothing would move and one of the forks that operate the valve was broken can these be welded and how much pressure is on them or do you know where one could be bought
@@oldhawksigns9885 great to hear! You might find one at a salvage yard.. They might be the same as an MD. Not sure though. Not much pressure on it, but it does move abruptly which might cause it to break again if welded.
Nice. any chance it came out of South Carolina? We had one pulling a small sawmill back in the 70's. It was sold out of the family in the 90's i think.
Not really, just a thorough cool-down period. Then simply shut the throttle to "off" position (diesel) like any other diesel engine. Always be sure that the engine is left on "diesel" cycle when shut off. This allows proper cool down and heat transfer through the cylinder head components because the starting valves are closed.
Neat video! That 18 wasnt running quite right. Looked great tho. Ran OK on gas, a bit fast perhaps. Neat video! Just a dummy that ran a smaller 16 in the yard for 30 yrs. Neat vid!
@@FarmallDoctor Fair enough. A little bit might sweeten that big brute right up! Didn't mean to try and chastise you sir. You put a ton of work into that beauty. Twin-stacks rule!
@@duron700r No worries! It's not mine, but was brought to me to get running again after sitting too long. The delivery plungers in the injection pump were all stuck. At the time I had assumed that the miss and puff under no load may have been just fouled injectors. I advised that they put it under load for a while to get the temps up and run fuel conditioner. I'm not sure if the collector ever did, but it's still a great display piece.
Jim Ladd Remove the side cover from the pump. Move the throttle control and see if the rack inside moves back and forth freely... this is very important. Crank the engine over and watch the 6 plungers to see if they all move freely up and down on each cam lobe. Don't be afraid to use some good penetrating oil. If the plungers are stuck and not following the cam- remove injection lines, and delivery valve caps (the fitting the lines attach to on top of the pump) carefully remove each spring, and delivery valve from their bores. Make sure that they go back in the same holes when reassembling! Take a small punch and small hammer to lightly tap each plunger down to meet the cam. You will have to rotate the engine to get them all to go to their lowest point on the cam. Repeat procedure until they return freely on their own. Clean all delivery valves of corrosion and varnish and reassemble. Once again check the control rack for free movement. Change oil in injection pump with 30W oil. Reattach injection lines and tighten. Run on gas cycle, advance diesel throttle and bleed injectors. Check throttle operation that fuel stops squirting from injector bleeders when in the "no fuel" position. Switch over to diesel and advance throttle. Enjoy!
Farmall Doctor It worked like a charm. Everything free. Can I bother you for the specs on the belts driving the gen. and water pump. Mine has non for reference. Assuming you use C section? Or will B work? I'm estimating outside length at 63", a C59. Looks like you use a single belt? Thanks, Jim
This engine used twin fan belts.. and unfortunately the engine went back home to it's owner so I can't easily get the numbers off of the belts that were on it.. sorry.
Nice looking, and sounding, restoration of this UD-18!
Beautiful, this a keeper for sure.
nice restoration! I plan to do the same soon. currently working on the trailer for it. I could use your expertise, live not to far from you.
Sounds awesome
how did you free up the pump. I have one with the same problem
I've never seen one run so FAST on gas ( startup/warmup )....
My TD-9 Wouldn't run *that* fast on gas when fully warmed up on a hot day.
Yea, it runs faster on gas than on diesel! haha. If you want to increase your gas cycle speed, put a thin washer under the big flat washer in the carb.
I would be interested in purchasing this if and when your ready to sell
It's not mine. It belongs to a customer. He doesn't sell anything either.
I have a rough ud 18. I have a question for you Farmall Doctor. My original starter is bad. Yours looks new. Where would I find a replacement the proper size? This seems to be an odd shape from what local repair place tells me.
Hi Jeff. This starter was rebuilt. My power unit book says that the starter is a Delco Remy model 1109106, 12Volts, 6 brushes, 6 poles.
Variable compression ratio before it was cool.
On my ud 18 i just got i am not getting fire i have checked the obvious points, etc the lever that changes over from gas to diesel is relatively smooth there is no snap or any noise when engaging if i have read right there should be a noticeable noise when engaging is that correct
Correct. It should take some force to push the lever to go to gas cycle and it will click in. Then the lever is free to move easily back until the end of the stroke to trip the mechanism to switch to diesel.
Farmall Doctor what could be causing it to be easy to move ?
@@oldhawksigns9885 if the starting valves are stuck open in the heads that will cause no resistance in moving the lever. Remove the valve covers to make sure that they are not stuck. There should be minimal clearance between the actuator arms and the valve caps. If they are stuck, you have to remove the rocker assemblies, valve caps, soak liberally, and use NEW vise-grips to get them moving. You "may" be able to observe some of the valves through the spark plug holes. If it sat a long time while on gas cycle they are likely stuck. Have had good luck getting them loosened up with vise-grips and tapping with a small hammer.
Farmall Doctor thanks for your help i got my ud 18 running on gas and runs great but the air valve i believe is stuck because the linkage that comes thru the head is working but my problem is when i took the top off of the air valve housing nothing would move and one of the forks that operate the valve was broken can these be welded and how much pressure is on them or do you know where one could be bought
@@oldhawksigns9885 great to hear! You might find one at a salvage yard.. They might be the same as an MD. Not sure though. Not much pressure on it, but it does move abruptly which might cause it to break again if welded.
Set the injection timing will sound so much better
I agree. In retrospect I realize that would have helped. Thanks.
@@FarmallDoctor i have the same engine sitting in an old shed some one had it in an old td18 way more powe than standard td18
Nice. any chance it came out of South Carolina? We had one pulling a small sawmill back in the 70's. It was sold out of the family in the 90's i think.
No, it has been in Ontario Canada since new.
Nice -- good advice on the pump repair -- I have a IH TD18 series 182 ( on you tube also ) who has head gaskets for this engine ? Thanks
I may have head gaskets.
@@wilmamcdermott3065 Thanks ,found some . But need a ring gear and pinion now for a TD 18 .
Is there a shut down procedure for these engines
Not really, just a thorough cool-down period. Then simply shut the throttle to "off" position (diesel) like any other diesel engine. Always be sure that the engine is left on "diesel" cycle when shut off. This allows proper cool down and heat transfer through the cylinder head components because the starting valves are closed.
Do you have a napa or wix number or a part number i could go by to get oil filters mine dont have any numbers on them thanks
try ih dealer
The UD18 oil filter INTERNATIONAL is 257867r92
Neat video!
That 18 wasnt running quite right. Looked great tho.
Ran OK on gas, a bit fast perhaps.
Neat video!
Just a dummy that ran a smaller 16 in the yard for 30 yrs.
Neat vid!
Yea, it could use a few degrees more injection timing.
@@FarmallDoctor Fair enough.
A little bit might sweeten that big brute right up!
Didn't mean to try and chastise you sir.
You put a ton of work into that beauty.
Twin-stacks rule!
@@duron700r No worries! It's not mine, but was brought to me to get running again after sitting too long. The delivery plungers in the injection pump were all stuck. At the time I had assumed that the miss and puff under no load may have been just fouled injectors. I advised that they put it under load for a while to get the temps up and run fuel conditioner. I'm not sure if the collector ever did, but it's still a great display piece.
What size battery do you use to start
A group 31 battery
1100 cold cranking amps ×2 stated my td 18 at 35 below 0
Please- how did you /repair clean the injector pump?
Mine has been sitting for more than 15 years. Jim
Do you have this same Bosch injection pump?
Farmall Doctor yes
Jim Ladd Remove the side cover from the pump. Move the throttle control and see if the rack inside moves back and forth freely... this is very important. Crank the engine over and watch the 6 plungers to see if they all move freely up and down on each cam lobe. Don't be afraid to use some good penetrating oil. If the plungers are stuck and not following the cam- remove injection lines, and delivery valve caps (the fitting the lines attach to on top of the pump) carefully remove each spring, and delivery valve from their bores. Make sure that they go back in the same holes when reassembling! Take a small punch and small hammer to lightly tap each plunger down to meet the cam. You will have to rotate the engine to get them all to go to their lowest point on the cam. Repeat procedure until they return freely on their own. Clean all delivery valves of corrosion and varnish and reassemble. Once again check the control rack for free movement. Change oil in injection pump with 30W oil. Reattach injection lines and tighten. Run on gas cycle, advance diesel throttle and bleed injectors. Check throttle operation that fuel stops squirting from injector bleeders when in the "no fuel" position. Switch over to diesel and advance throttle. Enjoy!
Farmall Doctor It worked like a charm. Everything free.
Can I bother you for the specs on the belts driving the gen. and water pump.
Mine has non for reference. Assuming you use C section? Or will B work?
I'm estimating outside length at 63", a C59. Looks like you use a single belt?
Thanks, Jim
This engine used twin fan belts.. and unfortunately the engine went back home to it's owner so I can't easily get the numbers off of the belts that were on it.. sorry.
100 horse power maybe ?
125 HP intermittent-100 HP continuous @1600 RPM
wow!good engine!
how old this engine?
+孟勳楊 around 1940
American Bosh inyection pump
Means its not the a series engine
Cool!!!
Ye olde double barrel!