I have had my E46 330d AC Schnitzer since 2003, currently it's sitting on 790000km and my dad still drives it daily to golf, and running his personal errands. I have moved on to the F10 M550d touring, Twin big turbo swop, been dailying it for 5 years now.
@@OM617a Haha, maybe. However, It's possible to exchange the turbo internals in order to flow more exhausts and air - in order to gain more power without EGT rising.
@@onlyhuman7420 if you can read you will notice that I stated I've swopped out the triple turbo setup for a twin hybrid turbo k26 setup from the F10 535d.
Can confirm. I have a 2009 E90 330d manual with a 300bhp remap, it's the most torquey, tractible and economical car I've ever owned, and beautiful to drive.
Proud owner of a 330d E92 with 231hp M57TÜ2D30. This engine is so smooth and powerful, it’s truly amazing and I never had a problem with it except for the valve cover gasket leaking a tiny bit of oil. 225k km and still runs great
The automatic gearbox used in 330d E9X can hold up to 750nm of torque without issues. Probably with a better clutch the gears themselves can withstand that power in the manual variant too
Buddy had a early 90s 5 series ( i think). It had a hot cammed straight 6, and until it was crashed it almost had 300,000 Mi on it. Even with the hot cam it was Bulletproof. And it was sold after crash to a friend of ours who owns a BMW race shop. So all the parts went to a good home
I bought e61 530d 218hp automatic about 2 months ago and I'm in love with it. I actually like that single turbo lag on low rpm, but when starts pushing its guts moving
I know quite a few whose M57's have gone +/-600k km and are still rocking perfectly fine, albeit after having some preventative work done like timing chain, unnecessary equipment removal like swirl flaps and egr, regular maintenance done - oils/coolant/filters/gaskets, thermostats, injectors, turbos All that list is something that needs to be done over a long time
The engine lifespan is not 300k miles or 480k km, it is 600k miles or 1m km if driven gently. My dad's e39 530d has 600k miles and is still going strong. Maintenance done every 100-200k miles so you don't have to do maintenance very often if you drive like a normal person. If you do maintenance every 10-20k miles it is not dying.
@@ersinylmaz4172 I think only one injector has been changed, tho I could be wrong. The chain is original from 98 and the turbo has been changed in 2015 because we gave it to someone and they abused it. It rarely goes over 2000rpm so that may be the reason it is still here. We don't do maintenance often because it doesn't really need it and we don't want to throw money into it ( I know this sounds stupid but it is true) and to answer your question, oil changes. That's all. Our mechanic said there are no signs of wear after removing the valve cover, but even though he has only seen the camshafts we believe him because he started on e39's (he was only doing e39's). We don't know if it really has 600k because an abs sensor broke in 2012 or earlier at 200k km (160k miles) and it was fixed in 2021. We estimate around 100k km (60k miles) every year so it may be 500-600k miles right now. The trans is also acting weird (it sometimes doesn't want to shift so the engine revs more than it should). It still is a reliable(ish) car, as the age shows in rubber and plastic parts. One of my classmates' dad has an f10 530d and it is mostly in the service. He also had an e39 530d, but the fuel pump broke and he was scared of costs so he sold it. He still regrets to this day. Shows how good these cars are.
@@ersinylmaz4172 Usually the timing on M57D1 (2.5d and 3.0d from e39) does not need preventive changing. They start rattling at ~400.000km's, and that's when you change the chain/guides etc.
2013 X5 35d @ 225,000 miles and counting. It’s a diesel and I would not consider this to be high miles. Its been a great car with very little repairs needed. My key to success is staying away from the dealer. I’m not convinced they know what they’re doing. Get a laptop and dealer software, and make sure she breathes good.
M57 owner. One of the best engines built. But surely if we are looking at all categories i.e, power, maintenance, torque etc…. Then the E39 M5 v8 surely has to be the winner. Its better in every way. Sure it may not reach the m57s milage, they still happily will reach 150000 comfortably. Now given the 400+ bhp stock and tuning potential. Yeah, its the best
The Older Mercedes OM606 is equally if not more Reliable and Factory Turbo Engines are good past 600 bhp and 6000 rpm . No-one is building them like this any more .
you may have missed the points about fuel efficency and emissions. if i wanted to make 500hp and give no fuck id choose the 606, if i wanted a dayly with good fuel economy and low taxes and still 300hp id go for the 57.
@@NIOC630 . The 606 set down at 300 hp uses very little fuel and they don't have to be smoky . Cold side EGR rather than Hot side and a DPF with Regen can be fitted as well if desired .
You OM606 nerds always show up anytime someone says "diesel" lol I mean this in the kindest way, and in no way do I blame you. It's a stellar engine and I'm sad I do not own one.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 . Two of the BIG pluses to the 606 is One , Mechanical Injection . No Electronics to " shit themselves for no reason " and Second , No PLASTIC PARTS on the Engine itself . The M-57 has a VERY strong Core , but all the Outboards and Plumbing are an Easy Failure Point .
@@johncunningham4820litteraly what my dude said there. There s no diesel thred whitout you guys hijacking the discution with reasons why the 606 its the best of the best. It is indeed an amazing engine,but at the same time we can have a discution about one engine without starting to give reasons why the 606 it s better
You finally made video about M57! To this day I'm still wondering why it was absent from your video about best diesels for tuning from few years back. Kinda EU LS for bigger 4x4 but the supply on the market had started to getting shorter and shorter.
I had one with 400k km, never opened the engine and was on original internals until I sold it at around 410k. Extremelly reliable engine when taken care with basic maintenance.
Yes very good engine. Did road trip few years back with friends e60. Was amazed by fuel economy. Did under 6l/100km with 4 people and full trunk at 140-150km/h. Did the same trip other year in Audi A4 B5 with 110hp 1.9 TDI. Got similar economy but BMW had almost 3x the horsepower due to having torque pretty high up the rev range (unlike TDI with VGT running out of steam around 3k rpm) and almost 200Nm more torque. I know on the road you don't use all the power all the time but the response of those engines are almost electric with plenty of power from pretty much get-go
Personaly i have owned E46 with M47 (with injector pump) i made over 80k km with it, last year i get E38 with M67D39Tu i made 30k km so far aind it never failed me
What? Dud u on crack or smth? No. The aluminum block have an "extra" problem and that is the injectors. Not the chain. EDIT: or we can talk about modernism and complain about DPF. Other than that the same problem with swirl flaps. But u can replace them with aftermarket or just cancel them.
@@n1ck72 well then, I have had, and some of my friends also have m57n2 e60s, some have original mileage, have had no problems up to 300k, one guy had a chain snap at 260k.. but in fact, they do suffer more, than the iron block m57, had a 535d 200kw for almost 3 years, no issues 300-370k.. sometimes the chain wears through the front casing.. and im not alone on that statement Most of them already have the dpf and swirl flaps removed.. other then that its a great engine. A good mechanic of mine said that the iron block is much superior, due to the fact, if an injector fails, you melt just the piston, not the piston and block. Ive read on some forums, that bmw changed the supplier for n2, or the quality was worse on the chains, that they started to have issues
@@7privet_ The story about injectors it's weird. I had mine when I bought it Second Hand with 130k originals and had bad injectors. Probably because the dealer held it for too long and as dealers do, they don't fill the tank up. + U keep the car outside in fcking Germany where isn't hot => condense in the tank from to many starts - stops for clients. Other than that, I think the problem with the chains is mostly due to the oil change interval, oil quality and how u exploit the engine. Ofc it will break if you start the car and u wanna go race it *DUH*. Some friends and neighbors had both the cast iron and also aluminum and none had problems. I even have friends with n57 and until now none complained about engine problems. One dude with an x6 n57 had some gearbox problems but that's all.
you should make videos on benz cdi engines also. i have one (om611) and it is great, very fuel efficient and reliable. best i got was 3.6l/100km. the 613/648 is awesome for making power
My E46 330d Touring gets beaten over the Autobahn for 400.000 km now. I always rev it high and accelerate hard. Only problem i had was the exhaustheaders and both driveshafts.
Within the decade, certainly in Europe, all pre-2010 diesels will be forced off the road through new emission laws. In many EU and UK Cities it is already impossible to drive pre -2015 diesels into many provincial cities without paying a large daily 'emission tax' Sadly, for those of us who appreciate these reliable and economical workhorse, the sun is setting on them.
Perhaps it is the most reliable BMW. A friend’s 335d keeps on having a long list of expensive mechanical faults from leaky injectors, to valves caked in carbon, egr issues, dry seals after only 80K miles, etc. He replaced it with a hybrid rav4 and never looked back.
@@derin111 just looked it up. Yea, seems to have a 3 banger option. Probably based on the Yaris GR engine i would assume. One of the best 3 bangers there are. I see nothing wrong with it. Im driving an MK8 Fiesta ST.
180k miles on my x5 35d - other than doing a trans service a few thousand miles ago - glow plugs and glow plug module - its been dead reliable - and makes around 400hp as well.
I have a love/hate relationship with my e39 530d. It drives great, it looks great, the butt massage still works. But often times I hear the engine and smell the exhaust and I get the feeling that something is wrong - Diesel... And sometimes there actually is, but i guess thats to be expected at 340'000 km, so it needs some love. Next car is gonna be a NA petrol again tho just for sound, smell and ease of maintenance
Those are just bollacks. :D I had NA petrol and it was the worst nightmare ever. Oil leaks over oil leaks. I had to carry oil with me all over the place. Nah uh. The best is to get a good engine (new if you can) or even old, but to be in a really good state. Than u exploit them how they should => no problems.
Only thing that can kill those engines is Air :/ When your tank is empty and you still try to start it, The high pressure pump pumps air through the injectors and makes a hole in the piston :/ That's so far the only thing i know that "kills" those engines otherwise the M57 is indestructible.
It is just a code name. A 6 is usually a V8 (M62, S62, N63, S65...) and a 7 is a V12 (M70/M73, N73/N74). Interestingly, an 8 was a V10 (S85). A 4 is most often a 4-cylinder (M47, B48...)
Mechanically, the best car I ever owned was a 2003 E46 330d. It was remapped and had all the emission control removed. Shame about the rotten body structure.........
M57 is best engine made, so simple and easy to fix too, i have 1 series with engine from 335d paired with manual transmission making 400hp with r90 pump, so fun to drive
The timing chain tensioner failed at 330 000 km on our 2007 BMW E70 X5 3,0d with the M57, causing catastrophic engine failure. We bought it brand new and always had it serviced regularly, so I can’t confirm your praise of this engine!
And did you service the timing chain and tensioner or did you assume its never going to fail? 330k km is about 30k late for a timing chain service on an M57.. it also almost never goes out without any previous signs - such as engine noise...that you most likely ignored :D
There were no maintenance scheduled by BMW regarding timing chain tensioners from factory. Today it might be a known fact but back then when it did 60k km per year no one recommended checking it. No engine rattle before it happened although at motorway speeds
@@lukashogfeldt746 Because its common sense, common knowledge.. the manufacturer always says its a lifetime chain and lifetime tensioners, lifetime gearbox oil etc... on every car 200k km is already a good time to service it. M57 300k has to be done for sure..
Yanmar marinized these for boats for a short time.. look up Yanmar 6BY. I have worked on several and they did not do well in the marine environment. The lifespan never exceeds 1800hrs in my experience. The power output was not outrageous either, 260 horsepower. They were a stop gap motor to fill a void in the market, until Yanmar marinized the Toyota 2.8. 4cyl as a 250hp engine. (4LV) Although it had 4 less cylinders , the engine weighs more due to BMWs us of plastics and composites for the manifolds and pipes
I have a 330d carbio, 2007 and the car has 130k original km. I bought it and I had to replace the piezo injectors. :)) Problem? Electrical fault... 1500E all new. 9_9 Normally if u take care of those cars they should be ok. EDIT: Also if you want to get that 6L / 100km, u have to drive it under 2k RPM, which if u have a car after 2005 like me, u might have DPF and I do not recommend it as those are "big" engines. => they will have clog way faster than a smaller diesel. If u drive it at 2000 - 2200, u get an 7 - 7.2 L / 100km.
Great. So I'm the only one with a broken, low-mileage M57. Bought a 330Cd at 225kkm with a slight irregular sound, like an older diesel when cold. Took it straight to BMW and asked about the engine and they greenlighted it. 35kkm later, uncle rod came knocking on the Autobahn. It still got itself and me home. I didn't ditch the car, couldnt get myself to do it. It received a replacement from a dead Touring. Even kept the broken engine to see, if I can rebuild it (stronger). Now, at over 300kkm, there's a clunking noise from the rear. We here know what that means. 😑
Mate is it the E9X or E46? For E46(possible for E9X to) The rear differential bushing is the biggest reason for the clunk. Also check the Hardy coupling or the center support bearing of the driveshaft, (E46 only )Subframe bushing possible(If you take it apart at least weld plates on them so the never can go cracking) and the diff itself or the joints of the driveshaft and axles can be bad also, but start with visual inspection and just dick around with a crowbar everywhere and check for excessive play.
@@Handle-Unavailable-x E46. Many thanks for your tips! Much appreciated 😌 I've got a second diff laying around and I've had the driveshafts apart to replace the boots and regrease. They didn't show any play (the clunking is not directly tied to thrust/no thrust, but more to body movement, also not direct suspension movement). So without having looked much, I suspect the subframe attachment points on the body, exactly where you suggested to weld plates on. Anyway, we'll find out soon enough, when I finally get the time.
@daszieher Yeah the problem with the subframe is that it's kinda weak but doesn't Crack if their bushings are good but we drive old cars so the bushing are definitely shot. Just watch out it will not fully crack/tear off because I had that. I just bought the car and thought it was the diff bushing and was drive it and the suddenly the clunking became extreme. I check it out and my rear right subframe connect point was completely broken off. Fixed it with welding plate and never had a problem but it hard to place the connection point back at is orginal spot before welding the plates on. Is possible to do it on the ground. Idk if you want to do it yourself or have it check out good thing many helpfull vidoes on the internet. You clunking may als come from some stupid supsesion bushing that had he's best life but kinda hard for my to diagnose that why I said just dick around with a crowbar and have a good long visual inspection. But the way you talk about it does sound like something like a subframe problem. Anways good luck with finding it am also still searching for a virbration at really high speeds. Tyres, aligment or diff or my main suspects. The cars are lovely to race, drift, and go crazy but having it at peak performance with the ages of the cars is hard to have but am close to getting it their.
pretty shame, they didnt put m57 in e8xxx series,...i got e82 123d with n47, its pretty good, almost 2 years with it and 170k km on it, but i would prefer m57 :(
Actually the m47 4Zylinder (its little Brother of m57) is much better for daily driving and maybe even more robust because oft its iron cast block. The 150HP and upwards Models have enough power, are fuel efficient and reliable. You should only delete swirl flaps, clean intake manifould and delete egr via Software
@hocek11 I mean sure if the 6bt was a passenger car engine. But it's not. It's a light and medium duty truck engine. Whole different basket of bananas.
Unfortunately, You cannot drive them anymore in big cities, due the Euro4 classification. Sad. Berlin, Munich, Barcelona, Madrid, Lion, Paris, etc, all of them heading to complete diesel bans.
Depending. Valvetronic + electric(onic) waterpump+ nox sensor can be very expensive and fail...the m50b25tü ist the best gasoline straight six from bmw...considering the US s52b30 and the alpina e4 and e5 are basically modified m50s...they have a lot of n/a and even s/t/c potential too
Had a E61 530d with this engine, never had problems with the engine, but everything else on the car broke almost weekly. That will be my last BMW ever.
@@ersinylmaz4172 There was a small lever connecting the keyhole in the door to the unlocking mechanism that was loose. This caused the car to wake up and drain the battery. It took forever to diagnose this issue, and even the authorized workshop had replaced the iDrive system and many other components while fault finding this issue. The wires for the electronic modules above the rear window needed repair because the split rear window was wearing through the cables. This caused the remote control for the car and other modules in that area to stop working. The electronic modules near the spare wheel had to be moved to a higher location to prevent moisture damage. The gearbox was having issues with shifting poorly and slipping gears. I had to replace the seals in the mechatronic unit within the gearbox to fix this. Control arms and stabilizer bars were also replaced, as well as a leaking sunroof gasket, some cooling hoses, charge air hoses, and a generator. This is some of what I can remember from one year of ownership.
The M21 engine sucked. It has torque to yield head bolts that eventually caused the engine to blow a headgasket. And the head would crack between the valve seats. I should have bought a Merc with an OM606 instead, 😪
Everything you said regarding UL, OL and TOP is completely wrong. This information comes from an "insider letter" which has been completely debunked. The only difference between the 25d UL and 30d OL M57 (306D3) is the cylinder head that is still the old cast iron one from the 306D2 with smaller valves and solenoid injectors on the 25d. The aluminum Block, pistons, rods are identical. On the N57 the 25d and 30d (UL&OL) are the exact same engine. There is no difference and every single part is the same. On the M57 the only engine that is slightly different is the 35d. It has different pistons. The bare N57 engine is the same across 25d, 30d, 35d pre TÜ and 30d, 35d TÜ. The M550d N57 is different, it has different pistons, heavier crankshaft, different block because cylinder head screws and main bearing screws are connected via an iron anker in the block, bigger valves, M8 exhaust header studs instead of M7, etc. I had hoped that dieseltuningparts had cleared the myth that bmw uses different quality grades for parts on their engines.
It definitely depends on the bmw. Bmw m30 reliable M54 reliable M50 reliable M20 reliable M60 3.0 4.0 reliable Many many bmws are extremely reliable engine wise. And many excellent manual transmissions by zf and getrag. Zf autos are generally good too especially 6hp and 8hp seems also good. Bmw modern classics are beautiful, reliable, and luxurious yet simple and very sporty. Toyota is recalling what, 100k engines for problems? All manufacturers have issues and many have extremely reliable vehicles. Probably the simpler the better.
@@Krezo200 No disagreement. M70 not bad at all. M73. V12 jobs. N52 series quite reliable. Expensive to maintain a bit more but still good. N62 OK but too many repairs. Still runs good. N54 good but expensive (injectors, hpfp, turbos, belt slip, etc). M62tu good but needs timing guides when it falls apart. Reaeal vanos. Other than that, m62tu runs strong. I believe m54 enthusiasts use m52 piston rings to stop the oil usage, another nod to your rock solid m52. M52 in z3 I think has aluminum block. Little tidbit there!
@@spencermaiers8322 if you say the n62 is good then we have to differ between the block and the attachment parts. i agree that the n62 block is good but it has many failures around it (i think thats what you said) in total i agree with you. so far i had serveral m52, m54, n52 and a m62. great engines, loved them. currently im owning a n20.... wish me luck. i have had n54 and n55 as well and they didnt let me sleep. injectors, hpfp and so on...
@@Krezo200 N20 is OK. Thr 12 13 14 need timing chain. Just do it. The 15 16 maybe 17 they went to? Should last longer depending when in 2015 it was built IIRC. Maybe Jan or Feb 2015 might be OK. I've seen 1 spun besrnf on n20 #2 rod and a couple siezed intake camshafts from oiling issues. The n20 is a noisy little direct injected 2/3rds of a n55 and has a poor reputation I'd say. For timing chain u will need crank install tool, timing tool, crank holder for automatic or manual, and a 3/4 36 inch or 1 meter long bar to break the crank bolt loose. Always do oil pump chain and guides all complete. If it blows the chain it always works even if catastrophe in the oil pan. A grocery bag of broken shit. Broken guides, pieces of oil pump chain tensioner etc. But it usually runs fine after even if totally fucked up. I think the shaft motor immediately pulls lift to minimum and it saves the valves. Usually the exhaust cam is dead on the money and the intake is advanced by 3 or more teeth. You'd think it will blow the valves up but always fires off and runs nice. If u get vanos codes there's a tsb to update the engine dme software and it fixes it. It doesn't mean u set the timing wrong. Torque is 100nm plus 270 degrees for crank bolt. Top end is 55nm and 55 degrees for the vanos bolts. The rest of it you can tighten up no problemo. The Chinese chain tool kit for 40 bucks works fine. I had a nice fancy baum also Taiwan have a screw issue. The Chinese cheap kits seem to work fine.
I have had my E46 330d AC Schnitzer since 2003, currently it's sitting on 790000km and my dad still drives it daily to golf, and running his personal errands. I have moved on to the F10 M550d touring, Twin big turbo swop, been dailying it for 5 years now.
Hi mate,
Would you mind explaining "twin big turbo"?
@@OM617a Haha, maybe.
However, It's possible to exchange the turbo internals in order to flow more exhausts and air - in order to gain more power without EGT rising.
F10 M550d has three turbos.
@@onlyhuman7420 if you can read you will notice that I stated I've swopped out the triple turbo setup for a twin hybrid turbo k26 setup from the F10 535d.
Is that the setup with the kp39 and the k26@@bzilla-d4i
Can confirm. I have a 2009 E90 330d manual with a 300bhp remap, it's the most torquey, tractible and economical car I've ever owned, and beautiful to drive.
Proud owner of a 330d E92 with 231hp M57TÜ2D30. This engine is so smooth and powerful, it’s truly amazing and I never had a problem with it except for the valve cover gasket leaking a tiny bit of oil. 225k km and still runs great
Om 648 800k org us miles
Mine's a cabrio. 130k km and I bought it with electrical faulty injectors. Had to replace them all.
I have a M57D30N as well in my E46 330Cd. I’ve already bought the replacement - F13 640i but still love my old babe and can’t sell it.
I bought my 6 speed E90 330d M Sport because of the M57 engine and also the gearbox.
300 bhp and 742 NM and I love it, the clutch doesn't though.
The automatic gearbox used in 330d E9X can hold up to 750nm of torque without issues. Probably with a better clutch the gears themselves can withstand that power in the manual variant too
The gearbox is very strong on those cars, I believe the 550i clutch is used as an upgrade.
Buddy had a early 90s 5 series ( i think). It had a hot cammed straight 6, and until it was crashed it almost had 300,000 Mi on it. Even with the hot cam it was Bulletproof. And it was sold after crash to a friend of ours who owns a BMW race shop. So all the parts went to a good home
I bought e61 530d 218hp automatic about 2 months ago and I'm in love with it. I actually like that single turbo lag on low rpm, but when starts pushing its guts moving
I'd love one of those! The inline six diésel sound is glorious... 😍🤩
I know quite a few whose M57's have gone +/-600k km and are still rocking perfectly fine, albeit after having some preventative work done like timing chain, unnecessary equipment removal like swirl flaps and egr, regular maintenance done - oils/coolant/filters/gaskets, thermostats, injectors, turbos
All that list is something that needs to be done over a long time
The engine lifespan is not 300k miles or 480k km, it is 600k miles or 1m km if driven gently. My dad's e39 530d has 600k miles and is still going strong. Maintenance done every 100-200k miles so you don't have to do maintenance very often if you drive like a normal person. If you do maintenance every 10-20k miles it is not dying.
What are the maintenance performed at 200 km? Chain replacement? Will the injectors last 400k miles without replacement
@@ersinylmaz4172 I think only one injector has been changed, tho I could be wrong. The chain is original from 98 and the turbo has been changed in 2015 because we gave it to someone and they abused it. It rarely goes over 2000rpm so that may be the reason it is still here. We don't do maintenance often because it doesn't really need it and we don't want to throw money into it ( I know this sounds stupid but it is true) and to answer your question, oil changes. That's all. Our mechanic said there are no signs of wear after removing the valve cover, but even though he has only seen the camshafts we believe him because he started on e39's (he was only doing e39's). We don't know if it really has 600k because an abs sensor broke in 2012 or earlier at 200k km (160k miles) and it was fixed in 2021. We estimate around 100k km (60k miles) every year so it may be 500-600k miles right now. The trans is also acting weird (it sometimes doesn't want to shift so the engine revs more than it should). It still is a reliable(ish) car, as the age shows in rubber and plastic parts. One of my classmates' dad has an f10 530d and it is mostly in the service. He also had an e39 530d, but the fuel pump broke and he was scared of costs so he sold it. He still regrets to this day. Shows how good these cars are.
@@ersinylmaz4172 Usually the timing on M57D1 (2.5d and 3.0d from e39) does not need preventive changing. They start rattling at ~400.000km's, and that's when you change the chain/guides etc.
My 2004 E60 525d is currently at 287000miles and still going strong
My 530D e60 big turbo got 600hp and 500k km, still running strong without problems
Videos 600 PS ?(
2013 X5 35d @ 225,000 miles and counting. It’s a diesel and I would not consider this to be high miles. Its been a great car with very little repairs needed. My key to success is staying away from the dealer. I’m not convinced they know what they’re doing. Get a laptop and dealer software, and make sure she breathes good.
M57 owner. One of the best engines built. But surely if we are looking at all categories i.e, power, maintenance, torque etc…. Then the E39 M5 v8 surely has to be the winner.
Its better in every way. Sure it may not reach the m57s milage, they still happily will reach 150000 comfortably. Now given the 400+ bhp stock and tuning potential. Yeah, its the best
The Older Mercedes OM606 is equally if not more Reliable and Factory Turbo Engines are good past 600 bhp and 6000 rpm .
No-one is building them like this any more .
you may have missed the points about fuel efficency and emissions. if i wanted to make 500hp and give no fuck id choose the 606, if i wanted a dayly with good fuel economy and low taxes and still 300hp id go for the 57.
@@NIOC630 . The 606 set down at 300 hp uses very little fuel and they don't have to be smoky . Cold side EGR rather than Hot side and a DPF with Regen can be fitted as well if desired .
You OM606 nerds always show up anytime someone says "diesel" lol
I mean this in the kindest way, and in no way do I blame you. It's a stellar engine and I'm sad I do not own one.
@@goosenotmaverick1156 . Two of the BIG pluses to the 606 is One , Mechanical Injection . No Electronics to " shit themselves for no reason " and Second , No PLASTIC PARTS on the Engine itself .
The M-57 has a VERY strong Core , but all the Outboards and Plumbing are an Easy Failure Point .
@@johncunningham4820litteraly what my dude said there. There s no diesel thred whitout you guys hijacking the discution with reasons why the 606 its the best of the best. It is indeed an amazing engine,but at the same time we can have a discution about one engine without starting to give reasons why the 606 it s better
You finally made video about M57! To this day I'm still wondering why it was absent from your video about best diesels for tuning from few years back. Kinda EU LS for bigger 4x4 but the supply on the market had started to getting shorter and shorter.
My X6 35D (E71) now at 690K kms 🙂
I had one with 400k km, never opened the engine and was on original internals until I sold it at around 410k. Extremelly reliable engine when taken care with basic maintenance.
Got 310K miles on mine. E60 BMW 2003. ❤M57 always used quality oil. Always hate changing the air filter 😇😂
You can’t go wrong with an e90 328i. N52 is a very solid motor. Take care of it and it will keep running
You forgot to mention that these engines were developed with Steyr, diesel specialists from Austria.
Yes very good engine. Did road trip few years back with friends e60. Was amazed by fuel economy. Did under 6l/100km with 4 people and full trunk at 140-150km/h. Did the same trip other year in Audi A4 B5 with 110hp 1.9 TDI. Got similar economy but BMW had almost 3x the horsepower due to having torque pretty high up the rev range (unlike TDI with VGT running out of steam around 3k rpm) and almost 200Nm more torque. I know on the road you don't use all the power all the time but the response of those engines are almost electric with plenty of power from pretty much get-go
Personaly i have owned E46 with M47 (with injector pump) i made over 80k km with it, last year i get E38 with M67D39Tu i made 30k km so far aind it never failed me
One thing you forgot to mention, aluminium block m57 also suffers from chain issues, like the nX7 engines after it.
@@OM617a the m57 had the chain at the front, n57 at back
@@OM617a well, thats wrong..
What? Dud u on crack or smth? No. The aluminum block have an "extra" problem and that is the injectors. Not the chain.
EDIT: or we can talk about modernism and complain about DPF. Other than that the same problem with swirl flaps. But u can replace them with aftermarket or just cancel them.
@@n1ck72 well then, I have had, and some of my friends also have m57n2 e60s, some have original mileage, have had no problems up to 300k, one guy had a chain snap at 260k.. but in fact, they do suffer more, than the iron block m57, had a 535d 200kw for almost 3 years, no issues 300-370k.. sometimes the chain wears through the front casing.. and im not alone on that statement
Most of them already have the dpf and swirl flaps removed.. other then that its a great engine. A good mechanic of mine said that the iron block is much superior, due to the fact, if an injector fails, you melt just the piston, not the piston and block.
Ive read on some forums, that bmw changed the supplier for n2, or the quality was worse on the chains, that they started to have issues
@@7privet_ The story about injectors it's weird. I had mine when I bought it Second Hand with 130k originals and had bad injectors. Probably because the dealer held it for too long and as dealers do, they don't fill the tank up. + U keep the car outside in fcking Germany where isn't hot => condense in the tank from to many starts - stops for clients. Other than that, I think the problem with the chains is mostly due to the oil change interval, oil quality and how u exploit the engine. Ofc it will break if you start the car and u wanna go race it *DUH*. Some friends and neighbors had both the cast iron and also aluminum and none had problems. I even have friends with n57 and until now none complained about engine problems. One dude with an x6 n57 had some gearbox problems but that's all.
you should make videos on benz cdi engines also. i have one (om611) and it is great, very fuel efficient and reliable. best i got was 3.6l/100km. the 613/648 is awesome for making power
My E46 330d Touring gets beaten over the Autobahn for 400.000 km now. I always rev it high and accelerate hard. Only problem i had was the exhaustheaders and both driveshafts.
Within the decade, certainly in Europe, all pre-2010 diesels will be forced off the road through new emission laws. In many EU and UK Cities it is already impossible to drive pre -2015 diesels into many provincial cities without paying a large daily 'emission tax' Sadly, for those of us who appreciate these reliable and economical workhorse, the sun is setting on them.
Perhaps it is the most reliable BMW. A friend’s 335d keeps on having a long list of expensive mechanical faults from leaky injectors, to valves caked in carbon, egr issues, dry seals after only 80K miles, etc. He replaced it with a hybrid rav4 and never looked back.
Meanwhile my 1.5L 3 cylinder with 200 PS at 100k no issues whatsoever.
Just another proof that the 3 cylinder myth about reliability is false.
@@dom3827I would rather take the bus than even be seen in a RAV4, let alone drive one! 😂
@@derin111 Rav4?
I dont get the context. Pls help.
Does the new RAV4 Toyota have a 3 banger?
@@derin111 just looked it up. Yea, seems to have a 3 banger option.
Probably based on the Yaris GR engine i would assume. One of the best 3 bangers there are. I see nothing wrong with it.
Im driving an MK8 Fiesta ST.
180k miles on my x5 35d - other than doing a trans service a few thousand miles ago - glow plugs and glow plug module - its been dead reliable - and makes around 400hp as well.
Nice cars. I would buy one but would have to stop using my signals and drive closely behind other drivers while viewing tiktok. Great video though
cant forget about the way bmw drivers like to cut people off with no acknowledgement also
Ehhh, the dad jokes of automotive world, we still doing this?
I have a love/hate relationship with my e39 530d. It drives great, it looks great, the butt massage still works. But often times I hear the engine and smell the exhaust and I get the feeling that something is wrong - Diesel... And sometimes there actually is, but i guess thats to be expected at 340'000 km, so it needs some love. Next car is gonna be a NA petrol again tho just for sound, smell and ease of maintenance
Those are just bollacks. :D I had NA petrol and it was the worst nightmare ever. Oil leaks over oil leaks. I had to carry oil with me all over the place. Nah uh. The best is to get a good engine (new if you can) or even old, but to be in a really good state. Than u exploit them how they should => no problems.
Had the m51 engine myself. I can testify that is a VERY strong engine indeed. 💪 😂.
Of course you can make engines with less strict emission standarts more reliable
My N55 now has 204 000km, hopefully it keeps being reliable.
Proud owner of a '99 E46 330d 100% stock. Sweet engine.
Reprogramalo y no te arrepentiras
Only thing that can kill those engines is Air :/ When your tank is empty and you still try to start it, The high pressure pump pumps air through the injectors and makes a hole in the piston :/ That's so far the only thing i know that "kills" those engines otherwise the M57 is indestructible.
Im owning my 4. M57 Right now. Just amazing with BIG Potential
Lovely work as always 😎❤
I have a 2010 635d n57 tuned to over 300 + amazing motor
@marcelhartmans ?
Bmw e61 530d 2005 410k km first everything only service drives perfekt
"57 5 = 6 cylinder" these guys really can't walk a straight line.
It is just a code name. A 6 is usually a V8 (M62, S62, N63, S65...) and a 7 is a V12 (M70/M73, N73/N74). Interestingly, an 8 was a V10 (S85). A 4 is most often a 4-cylinder (M47, B48...)
It is straight, just not from where you are standing 😂
😂😂😂😂😂
Mechanically, the best car I ever owned was a 2003 E46 330d. It was remapped and had all the emission control removed. Shame about the rotten body structure.........
The engine management light always seems to work fine.
M57 is best engine made, so simple and easy to fix too, i have 1 series with engine from 335d paired with manual transmission making 400hp with r90 pump, so fun to drive
Om 648 is #1
The timing chain tensioner failed at 330 000 km on our 2007 BMW E70 X5 3,0d with the M57, causing catastrophic engine failure. We bought it brand new and always had it serviced regularly, so I can’t confirm your praise of this engine!
bad maintenance, my e61 with 392 000 kms on the clock says otherwise 2007 m57tü2 145 kw, regular oil service only
And did you service the timing chain and tensioner or did you assume its never going to fail? 330k km is about 30k late for a timing chain service on an M57.. it also almost never goes out without any previous signs - such as engine noise...that you most likely ignored :D
U had the car brand new or second hand?
There were no maintenance scheduled by BMW regarding timing chain tensioners from factory. Today it might be a known fact but back then when it did 60k km per year no one recommended checking it. No engine rattle before it happened although at motorway speeds
@@lukashogfeldt746 Because its common sense, common knowledge.. the manufacturer always says its a lifetime chain and lifetime tensioners, lifetime gearbox oil etc... on every car 200k km is already a good time to service it. M57 300k has to be done for sure..
Typo in the beginning of the video. No such thing as M51D24, BMW only made one variant witch is M51D25. Otherwise great video once again!
Yanmar marinized these for boats for a short time.. look up Yanmar 6BY. I have worked on several and they did not do well in the marine environment. The lifespan never exceeds 1800hrs in my experience. The power output was not outrageous either, 260 horsepower. They were a stop gap motor to fill a void in the market, until Yanmar marinized the Toyota 2.8. 4cyl as a 250hp engine. (4LV) Although it had 4 less cylinders , the engine weighs more due to BMWs us of plastics and composites for the manifolds and pipes
I have a 330d carbio, 2007 and the car has 130k original km. I bought it and I had to replace the piezo injectors. :)) Problem? Electrical fault... 1500E all new. 9_9 Normally if u take care of those cars they should be ok.
EDIT: Also if you want to get that 6L / 100km, u have to drive it under 2k RPM, which if u have a car after 2005 like me, u might have DPF and I do not recommend it as those are "big" engines. => they will have clog way faster than a smaller diesel. If u drive it at 2000 - 2200, u get an 7 - 7.2 L / 100km.
Thought you were going to talk about M50B25
Great. So I'm the only one with a broken, low-mileage M57.
Bought a 330Cd at 225kkm with a slight irregular sound, like an older diesel when cold. Took it straight to BMW and asked about the engine and they greenlighted it.
35kkm later, uncle rod came knocking on the Autobahn. It still got itself and me home.
I didn't ditch the car, couldnt get myself to do it. It received a replacement from a dead Touring. Even kept the broken engine to see, if I can rebuild it (stronger).
Now, at over 300kkm, there's a clunking noise from the rear. We here know what that means. 😑
Mate is it the E9X or E46? For E46(possible for E9X to) The rear differential bushing is the biggest reason for the clunk. Also check the Hardy coupling or the center support bearing of the driveshaft, (E46 only )Subframe bushing possible(If you take it apart at least weld plates on them so the never can go cracking) and the diff itself or the joints of the driveshaft and axles can be bad also, but start with visual inspection and just dick around with a crowbar everywhere and check for excessive play.
@@Handle-Unavailable-x E46. Many thanks for your tips! Much appreciated 😌
I've got a second diff laying around and I've had the driveshafts apart to replace the boots and regrease. They didn't show any play (the clunking is not directly tied to thrust/no thrust, but more to body movement, also not direct suspension movement).
So without having looked much, I suspect the subframe attachment points on the body, exactly where you suggested to weld plates on. Anyway, we'll find out soon enough, when I finally get the time.
@daszieher Yeah the problem with the subframe is that it's kinda weak but doesn't Crack if their bushings are good but we drive old cars so the bushing are definitely shot. Just watch out it will not fully crack/tear off because I had that. I just bought the car and thought it was the diff bushing and was drive it and the suddenly the clunking became extreme. I check it out and my rear right subframe connect point was completely broken off. Fixed it with welding plate and never had a problem but it hard to place the connection point back at is orginal spot before welding the plates on. Is possible to do it on the ground. Idk if you want to do it yourself or have it check out good thing many helpfull vidoes on the internet.
You clunking may als come from some stupid supsesion bushing that had he's best life but kinda hard for my to diagnose that why I said just dick around with a crowbar and have a good long visual inspection.
But the way you talk about it does sound like something like a subframe problem.
Anways good luck with finding it am also still searching for a virbration at really high speeds.
Tyres, aligment or diff or my main suspects. The cars are lovely to race, drift, and go crazy but having it at peak performance with the ages of the cars is hard to have but am close to getting it their.
Great videos thanks.could you make a video on BMW N series diesel engines please
Looking at this after rocking a b58 in my F20 and it's making me think an E series X is going to be better than an F or G series
So, should I take my '73 W116 with a Powerstroke 7.3 from consideration as running up along this for reliability?
Thats a awesome swap
@@jarrynsmith The original V8 was absolutely toast. It had created the forbidden milkshake and been left to sit for years. Not a good combo!
Gud vid as always VR 😊😊
Is 200kw version piezo injected?
Yes
@@VisioRacer So thats why is more quiet than 218hp version
I miss my e39 m57. Hopefully my f11 n57 wil be just as good.
I do love diesel cars, wish the US had more.
You have GM and VW to thank for the lack of diesel cars in the USA
We got the cdi om648 # 1 motor
M57 is the best
I had e39 with 790k KM
Loved the car
pretty shame, they didnt put m57 in e8xxx series,...i got e82 123d with n47, its pretty good, almost 2 years with it and 170k km on it, but i would prefer m57 :(
You can swap it.
The problem is these engines were not available in a lot of countries.
Actually the m47 4Zylinder (its little Brother of m57) is much better for daily driving and maybe even more robust because oft its iron cast block. The 150HP and upwards Models have enough power, are fuel efficient and reliable. You should only delete swirl flaps, clean intake manifould and delete egr via Software
M10 is the One.
M20❤
M57 mentioned 🦅🇩🇪
1000 hp and 1650nm. How? No smoke, thats exactly reason why.
The diesel 2JZ
What about om606
@@EQ2Errickthe true diesel JZ
Why couldn't we say the OM606 is like a 7M and these are the JZ?
Imo that feels more accurate.
Cummins 6bt would like to enter the chat 😂
@hocek11 I mean sure if the 6bt was a passenger car engine. But it's not. It's a light and medium duty truck engine. Whole different basket of bananas.
For gasoline engines M54B30.
Is b47 2.0d good engine?
No es mal motor, pero falla la cadena de distribución igual que en el n47...
Unfortunately, You cannot drive them anymore in big cities, due the Euro4 classification.
Sad.
Berlin, Munich, Barcelona, Madrid, Lion, Paris, etc, all of them heading to complete diesel bans.
Isnt the n52 also really reliable
Depending. Valvetronic + electric(onic) waterpump+ nox sensor can be very expensive and fail...the m50b25tü ist the best gasoline straight six from bmw...considering the US s52b30 and the alpina e4 and e5 are basically modified m50s...they have a lot of n/a and even s/t/c potential too
The most powerful bmw in romania is not a 286hp version (306d5), it a 231hp (306d3) currently converted to tri turbo.
This is BS, most reliable bmw is well maintained bmw
yeah like a s63 ahgahahaha
Poor maintenance leads into problems
i love my e61 with m57😍💪💪
B58, the best modern engine.
Great stuff
Had a E61 530d with this engine, never had problems with the engine, but everything else on the car broke almost weekly. That will be my last BMW ever.
What problems?
@@ersinylmaz4172 There was a small lever connecting the keyhole in the door to the unlocking mechanism that was loose. This caused the car to wake up and drain the battery. It took forever to diagnose this issue, and even the authorized workshop had replaced the iDrive system and many other components while fault finding this issue.
The wires for the electronic modules above the rear window needed repair because the split rear window was wearing through the cables. This caused the remote control for the car and other modules in that area to stop working.
The electronic modules near the spare wheel had to be moved to a higher location to prevent moisture damage.
The gearbox was having issues with shifting poorly and slipping gears. I had to replace the seals in the mechatronic unit within the gearbox to fix this.
Control arms and stabilizer bars were also replaced, as well as a leaking sunroof gasket, some cooling hoses, charge air hoses, and a generator. This is some of what I can remember from one year of ownership.
E60s are either dead reliable or complete shit.
Thanks again
The M21 engine sucked. It has torque to yield head bolts that eventually caused the engine to blow a headgasket. And the head would crack between the valve seats. I should have bought a Merc with an OM606 instead, 😪
Well om 606 can blow headgaskets too.
Wow, it's been a while since I last heard "BMW" and "reliable" in the same sentence~
Last M57 was built around 2007, so yeah, it's been a while
How fast that Romanian fastest over 1000hp diesel was in 1/4 mile? Benzin goes under 10s with 800-900hp
The first clip sounded mental :)
M57: The least diesel diesel engine
M30
M20❤
The narrator sounds like Inspector Clouseau trying to speak a Slavic language. My ears won't stop bleeding.
So bmw still knows how to make a closed deck
Everything you said regarding UL, OL and TOP is completely wrong. This information comes from an "insider letter" which has been completely debunked.
The only difference between the 25d UL and 30d OL M57 (306D3) is the cylinder head that is still the old cast iron one from the 306D2 with smaller valves and solenoid injectors on the 25d. The aluminum Block, pistons, rods are identical.
On the N57 the 25d and 30d (UL&OL) are the exact same engine. There is no difference and every single part is the same.
On the M57 the only engine that is slightly different is the 35d. It has different pistons.
The bare N57 engine is the same across 25d, 30d, 35d pre TÜ and 30d, 35d TÜ.
The M550d N57 is different, it has different pistons, heavier crankshaft, different block because cylinder head screws and main bearing screws are connected via an iron anker in the block, bigger valves, M8 exhaust header studs instead of M7, etc.
I had hoped that dieseltuningparts had cleared the myth that bmw uses different quality grades for parts on their engines.
M21 is about as good as it ever got based on my knowledge
Disappointed. Thought this is going to be about the B58.
If you need M21 turbo footage i can provide 😁
The problem with diesels is that they stink
Incorrect
@@paulreilly3904 I can't comment on the sensitivity of your nose, I own a diesel.
Ah stuck in America, the land of gasoline.
Reliability
Engine = 👍🏼
Emissions = 💩
Electronics = 🖕
Easily go over million kilometers
Om 648 is better
The most VisioRacer clickbait title ever?
why?
BMW and reliable does not exist
It definitely depends on the bmw.
Bmw m30 reliable
M54 reliable
M50 reliable
M20 reliable
M60 3.0 4.0 reliable
Many many bmws are extremely reliable engine wise. And many excellent manual transmissions by zf and getrag.
Zf autos are generally good too especially 6hp and 8hp seems also good.
Bmw modern classics are beautiful, reliable, and luxurious yet simple and very sporty.
Toyota is recalling what, 100k engines for problems?
All manufacturers have issues and many have extremely reliable vehicles. Probably the simpler the better.
You forgot m52
If you say m54 is reliable.. m52 is even more reliable
@@Krezo200 No disagreement. M70 not bad at all. M73. V12 jobs. N52 series quite reliable. Expensive to maintain a bit more but still good. N62 OK but too many repairs. Still runs good. N54 good but expensive (injectors, hpfp, turbos, belt slip, etc). M62tu good but needs timing guides when it falls apart. Reaeal vanos. Other than that, m62tu runs strong.
I believe m54 enthusiasts use m52 piston rings to stop the oil usage, another nod to your rock solid m52. M52 in z3 I think has aluminum block. Little tidbit there!
@@spencermaiers8322 if you say the n62 is good then we have to differ between the block and the attachment parts. i agree that the n62 block is good but it has many failures around it (i think thats what you said) in total i agree with you. so far i had serveral m52, m54, n52 and a m62. great engines, loved them. currently im owning a n20.... wish me luck. i have had n54 and n55 as well and they didnt let me sleep. injectors, hpfp and so on...
@@Krezo200 N20 is OK. Thr 12 13 14 need timing chain. Just do it. The 15 16 maybe 17 they went to? Should last longer depending when in 2015 it was built IIRC. Maybe Jan or Feb 2015 might be OK.
I've seen 1 spun besrnf on n20 #2 rod and a couple siezed intake camshafts from oiling issues.
The n20 is a noisy little direct injected 2/3rds of a n55 and has a poor reputation I'd say.
For timing chain u will need crank install tool, timing tool, crank holder for automatic or manual, and a 3/4 36 inch or 1 meter long bar to break the crank bolt loose.
Always do oil pump chain and guides all complete.
If it blows the chain it always works even if catastrophe in the oil pan. A grocery bag of broken shit. Broken guides, pieces of oil pump chain tensioner etc.
But it usually runs fine after even if totally fucked up. I think the shaft motor immediately pulls lift to minimum and it saves the valves. Usually the exhaust cam is dead on the money and the intake is advanced by 3 or more teeth. You'd think it will blow the valves up but always fires off and runs nice.
If u get vanos codes there's a tsb to update the engine dme software and it fixes it. It doesn't mean u set the timing wrong.
Torque is 100nm plus 270 degrees for crank bolt. Top end is 55nm and 55 degrees for the vanos bolts. The rest of it you can tighten up no problemo.
The Chinese chain tool kit for 40 bucks works fine. I had a nice fancy baum also Taiwan have a screw issue. The Chinese cheap kits seem to work fine.
M30