I have seen the inside of a lot of engines and Beta impresses me for several reasons. Durability, maintenance friendly, and they run soooo smooth. Look at the size of that filter! Twice the size of any KTM filter. Plus the trans is separate from motor oil, AND the pick up screen is built onto the drain plug (how awesome is that!).
I have a 2017 390 (and very little mechanical experience). A fantastic video, will try this next time with the help of a friend with more knowledge of Beta engines. Keep up the good work!
quick tech tip... @3:20 you'll see the harness is up against the upper motor mount. that mount has a pretty sharp edge and over time i could see the harness getting cut through. i took a grinder and rounded off that edge, then used a piece of gorilla tape to cover the contact area. small task to prevent a inevitable failure.
Great detail on valve adjustment! Just bought my first beta and it’s the 500rs, beta dealer mad a big big deal on the valve being checked at 3 hours. So that’s my plan.
just watched back as i'm gonna do back my valves check and don't want to miss a thing. You are really doing great videos. it's clear enough and movie shooting is good. I wished you could do a complete opening engine rebuilt video ( with changing parts mentionned in the beta maintenance schedule). It would be great ! Even if you ask for some participation by subscrition or whatever ! best to you !
Hello awsome video. Question on the cam bearing that you have to slide up against the little lip. The bearing has an oil hole on it does it matter what direction that oil passage is facing? Up, down, left or right ? Thanks for the help .
Good Afternoon and great question, the ONLY thing you need to make sure is that the bearing rests against the inner lip of the head. The orientation of that oil hole does not matter! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Great content, many thanks. I checked my valve clearances at 60 hours and found both inlet are of of spec. I have measured my shims with a Vernier calliper and also a micrometer. One of the shims has 2.575 written on it but measures 2.560 with the vernier and 2.508 with the micrometer. I put this down to the wear of the head of the valve stem and the wear of the follower against the shim. The vernier cannot measure the wear of the valve stem against the shim, whereas the micrometer does.
Thanks for the vid, I just did mine using this video as a reference. Wouldn't have felt confident without it. Was easier than I expected. I left the cam in, and just lifted them and the follower, and used a magnet to fish out the shim. Thanks for the tip on the bearing position (behind the gears). Wouldn't have realized that it's important. I think my exhaust bearing wasn't seated properly (all the way back) when I opened it up. Any tips on inspecting or servicing the exhaust decompression mechanism?
Fantastic video. I'm getting ready to do this on a 2016 390RR that I just bought. Lots of miles on this bike - very curious as to what I'll find. Thanks for the content.
Good Morning! Without proper adjustment the bike will get harder to start, run rough and overall just not be good for the engine life. Eventually it will quit working. Enjoy The Ride, Jared
hi, congratulations for the videos! I can remove all 4 shims at the same time, they all need to be done and I would have to order the various shims because I don't have the kit. can you be sure if you mark the chain with the cams? better to hang it? thanks for the help
@@3SeasRecreation in the end I got the kit 😁 could you show me the calculation for the ideal game? I have 0.08 in similar suction on the entire side and the plate hypothetically 2.50, what is the exact calculation to do counting the 0.10 and 0.175 gaps? thanks for your help and greetings from Italy
Thanks for these videos. I have a 2020 390 and there is very little content on the 20+ models. I adjusted my valves recently and have a question. Does the orientation of the oil hole on big end cam bearing matter? I hope not. Thanks
@@nick4872 It's not a bad idea, more of a piece of mind thing which is what we are all looking for. We have never had a bike fail due to the plastic gears however we have found some that are pretty worn. I will order a set and do a video installing them in our 2021 430 Race Edition shop bike in the next month. Thanks!
Subscriber here, my 2020 beta rrs 390 just hit 1000 miles. Was wondering if the valves need adjustment. Bike runs starts perfectly, only thing there is a little backfire when I go down hill. Thanks for all you do
Good Morning, I would consider checking your valves now. Usually we do our first valve check around that time just to make sure they don't need an initial adjustment. Thanks for watching, Jared
@SG1971 Hey, just wondering, did adjusting your valves correct the backfiring issue? My 17' 390 RR-S backfires and shoots smoke out of the exhaust frequently when aggressively blipping the throttle (to lift wheel or to accelerate quickly). It only does it on the initial blip. No other issues with it though. Only 41 hours on the bike. Starts fine.
@@captainamerica9353 my local Beta dealer said they've never done a valve adjustment and that they may not be the best place to get it done, however they quoted just the valve check at $260. They also said they don't stock shims and they they don't know how long it would take to receive the necessary shims should I need an adjustment. Lol... So I ordered a shim kit on Amazon for $80 and did it myself following this video and the manual on the BetaUSA site. It wasn't difficult, you just need to be careful and follow the steps. Don't go outside the steps unless you know what you're doing. Both of my intake valves were too tight. My left intake valve was .08 and the right one was right at the limit, .10. I adjusted both of them. The exhaust valves were within spec.
So you don't lock the cranckshaft with the special bolt ... old school which works well too ;) Speaking of old school, the stick in the plug hole to get the highest piston point is a good trick too ;) ( but if caring to have the real up piston timing of course ) THanks for the video. clear, good speech. Good job !!! kudos !!!
Thanks for the comment! Good question with the crank shaft lock. There is one on this bike, all you would have to do is pull the skid plate, unscrew the hex head bolt and take the thick washer off then reinsert the bolt once the bike was at TDC. I typically only do that when I'm doing a full engine rebuild. I always mark the timing chain and cams with a marker so I can make sure it goes back together exactly as it came apart. Also the screw driver down the spark plug hole is a good trick as well. If I couldn't see the cams to know where I wanted them then that would of been helpful!
@@3SeasRecreation take care to protect the fuel coupling ( a cutted finger of latex glove put lie a condom works well). If there is some fuel drops going out of the coupling when disconnecting, it's mandatory to clean it as fast as possible, the fuel contaminates the plastic very fast and makes the coupling more and more difficult..
Nice video, thanks. In case I have to change all four shims, I will have to remove both camshafts. Any advice / precautions to keep in mind? And is it possible that the shims, for example of the exhaust valves, are of different thickness or should they match?
Good question! Yes you would have to remove the front (exhaust) camshaft as well. I would recommend doing ONE cam at a time. Once you had the intake done, put the cam chain back on and then take the cam chain off the exhaust. I just like to keep the chain right where it needs to be during the whole process. You will do the same exact process with the exhaust, they use the same finger followers and same shims as the intake. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation Thanks, Jared. This is what I thought, but what has confused me is that on page 144 of the workshop manual (I am lucky to have the book in pdf), there is a scheme that says that before removing the exhaust camshaft, we have to remove the admission one, that is, it seems that it is not possible to have only the admission one in place. What do you think? On the other hand, the question about the shims meant that if it is possible, for example, one of the exhaust valves needs 2,400 mm while the other one 2,425, or the normal thing is that both thickness are the same. Thanks a lot !!
@@mototrailadventure2725 Good Morning, glad you have a manual! Keep in mind all Beta manuals are live on their website at betausa.com so that's a great resource if you are traveling. Also, yes it is common to need different size shims for each set of valves. For example I find that the LH intake usually needs a bigger shim at each adjustment compared to the RH intake.
Hi, as a long time Beta driver I love this channel. Just one question: Isn't it better to use the lock screw for the crankshaft for this kind of work? 🙂 Regards from Germany, Volker
Good Morning, yep there is a screw in the bottom that is recommended to use. I suppose I have done so many of them that I don't worry about it. I think as long as you mark everything really good with a marker before you take anything apart or move it you should be good to go! Enjoy the Ride, Jared
Hi!. Congrats for the video again. According to Beta manual, the length of the cam chain spring tensioner should be not shorter than 74mm. If I only want to check that, Can I simply remove the spring cover to check the spring length... without having to open the valve cover to get the engine to the top dead center? Thank you
Good Morning, yes you can unscrew the hex head screw that is centered in the cam chain tensioner and pull that spring out that hole. Or you can unscrew the whole cam chain tensioner which I believe is a 19mm wrench and then reset the tensioner while you have it out. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation I thought to reset the tensioner should be only done with the engine to the dead top center, that's why I thought only to unscrew the hex head screw that is centered in the cam chain tensioner. Anyway I´ll unscrew the hex head screw because is easier. Thank you 🙂
Hey, no you can unscrew the cam chain tensioner at any time. The bike only needs to be kept at TDC if you are taking the chain off and taking cams out and need to put them back in. If you are just unscrewing the tensioner from the side of the cylinder you are not messing with the actual chain to where it could be put back on the cams wrong. I wouldn't take the cam chain tensioner out and then spin the motor over that might cause an issue.. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation You mean you wouldn't take the cam chain tensioner out and spin the motor... without having put the tensioner again in place. That's for sure, never thougnt to make such a thing. But if I only remove the spring, check it, and put it back in place, no problem. Thanks a lot
Well done tech video .Thanks. Wish I something like this when I first checked my valves on my Ducati in the 90s. Can you lend some wisdom as to the reality of the Beta 4t factory piston and bottom end bearing replacement schedule in the factory manual? Looks like you have been working with bikes that are used in competition and most of us use them as playbikes or a mix of dual sport and trail duty. The factory replacement schedule seems a bit too frequent for lighter duty use.
Hey good morning, thanks for the positive feedback! We are so impressed with the Beta engines that typically we don't consider doing any bottom end/ piston work on a normal trail bike until well after 100 hours. Of course, with our race bikes it can be done sooner, just depends on who is riding the bike and the overall race conditions.
@@3SeasRecreation guy you can check thumper talk , ben500 has a 500 beta 4T which have more than 500 hours on it, without any problem. and he used it in winter with snow kit too, etc.. not really soft use :)
@@babar69110 I don't doubt it! We have had very good success with these bikes and good longevity. We also live in the cold where they get abused in the winter (Western New York)
Hey Evan! For a typical trail/ dual sport rider I would consider checking your valves at 40 hours and then 100 hours as long as you do the normal oil & air filter changes. If the bike is being raced I would like to do them at 20 hours, 60 hours 80 hours... Just more precaution with the race bikes. As always, if you hear or feel something is different ( hard to start) then we would want to do it much sooner!
Awesome thanks for the input. I mostly trail ride. I'm at about 22 hours now been changing the oil/ trans oil regularly the bike has been solid, hope to keep it running good for a long time👍
@@evan71211 I have a 2018 390race and checked the valves at 30hrs. Both intakes were too tight, and one exhaust. Shimmed out to proper clearances and the bike never ran better. Starts faster, and has more low end pop. I believe that the valves were out from factory. Not hard to do just a pain in the ass. Invest in good tools to make the job easier.
@@3SeasRecreation Hi. Awesome video, congratulations. Could you describe the kind of noise that may suggest that the valves need to be checked?. Thank you!
Good Evening, my special tool is my wrist lol... It is very hard to reach in to two of those bolts with any sort of torque wrench. Enjoy the ride, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation Yes, I agree. The maintenance schedule in the manual says that you have to re-torque the cylinder head after 5 hours. This got me really bamboozled. Does anybody do that? I didn't do that after 5h, but when checking valve clearance I decided to take the engine out and see if the head bolts will move when trying to re-torque. No movement at all on the head bolts, but at least it was easy to torque everything else when the engine was out.
Good Morning and thanks for being a subscriber, much appreciated! I wouldn't do a timing chain unless you really noticed the cams not lining up correctly with the top of the cylinder head when you are adjusting your valves. However, if I were doing a complete engine rebuild then yes, I would do one at that time.
I have 23 430rr. Are the valve clearance the same? And what are the torque specs for the cam bridge? I am having trouble finding the correct information. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Good Afternoon! Yep same info, honestly I don't know the torque off top of my head. Unless the service manual says it I would just get them all evenly tight by hand. Enjoy The Ride, Jared
Hi , tnx for video. in right side on silinder head is 3 black cup (same like oil level check cup) nuts 5mm hex key. do you know , what for the middle cup nut is ? tnx
Typically its an Hour of labor to "check the valves". If they need adjusted then it's another 1/2 to 1 hour of labor. Just depends on the model! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Good Morning, it depends on the rider and conditions. Typically I like to check the valves around 30 hours but after that you can wait until you feel the bike getting harder to start or when you can hear a difference in the engine. Enjoy the ride, Jared
Good Evening and good question. You can place that bearing in any orientation that you wish, just make sure that it is pushed all the way against the machined tab that it is supposed to press against. There is a channel that goes all the way around that allows oil to enter that bearing.
Hey, yep I sure do! I will attach the link to the online Beta service manual and if you look on page 119 it has the chart. If the link doesn't work here is the break down: Intake: 0 .10 (mm) --> 0.175 (mm) Exhaust: 0.125 (mm) --> 0.20 (mm) betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2010-2011%20service%20manual%20RR-RS.pdf
hello, I have a ´20 350 racing with 3000 miles on its engine, it never has a hard time starting, neither with a cold engine, nor with a hot engine, would it be necessary to do a valve adjustment?, thanks
Very nice! That's some awesome ride time on your bike, congrats on that! I would certainly take the valve cover off and just inspect your valves to make sure they are all in spec. By the sounds of it they don't need adjustment but that is some serious mileage compared to some customers. I'm always looking for that piece of mind before the next big ride! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Good evening! Beta supplies all manuals on the consumer website in PDF form. Go ahead and download then have it printed at like an office max if you wish. Thanks for watching, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation It's like calling a ratchet a hammer ....even if you use it like one....don't make it right....lol party on.... love my 21 500 RRS!!!✌
Not exactly the same correlation. It may not be technically called that. But most everyone knows it’s micro and it’s measuring meters. So it still got the point across to the lay people…
Good Morning! I use "Ultra Grey". It makes a nice seal around the cam lobe holes, otherwise it can seep oil and look bad in dust. Enjoy the ride, Jared
I have seen the inside of a lot of engines and Beta impresses me for several reasons. Durability, maintenance friendly, and they run soooo smooth. Look at the size of that filter! Twice the size of any KTM filter. Plus the trans is separate from motor oil, AND the pick up screen is built onto the drain plug (how awesome is that!).
Thanks for your positive feedback!
Since you put out great videos I will only be buying parts from you from now on. Thank you for the extra efforts sharing knowledge with the rest of us
I have a 2017 390 (and very little mechanical experience). A fantastic video, will try this next time with the help of a friend with more knowledge of Beta engines. Keep up the good work!
Glad it helped
Thank you for the great videos !!! I’m new to Beta and everything you post has been very detailed and informative
Thanks for this video. I'll be checking the clearances on my 500 RR-S soon and this will help me a lot.
quick tech tip... @3:20 you'll see the harness is up against the upper motor mount. that mount has a pretty sharp edge and over time i could see the harness getting cut through. i took a grinder and rounded off that edge, then used a piece of gorilla tape to cover the contact area. small task to prevent a inevitable failure.
Thanks for the comment! We'll check for that at the next check!
@@3SeasRecreation 👍 great video btw.
Excellent video. I had never shimmed valves before. With your videos step by step help I did the adjustments on my 23 beta 390 rr race,
Man that is so cool, love hearing when our videos are helpful! Enjoy The Ride, Jared
Awsome video thank you . Beta for life .
Thanks for watching! Much appreciated. Enjoy the ride, Jared
Great detail on valve adjustment! Just bought my first beta and it’s the 500rs, beta dealer mad a big big deal on the valve being checked at 3 hours. So that’s my plan.
just watched back as i'm gonna do back my valves check and don't want to miss a thing. You are really doing great videos. it's clear enough and movie shooting is good.
I wished you could do a complete opening engine rebuilt video ( with changing parts mentionned in the beta maintenance schedule). It would be great ! Even if you ask for some participation by subscrition or whatever ! best to you !
Good video and very nice Mustang!
Thanks for the positive feedback and good eye catching that car in the back ground! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Hello awsome video. Question on the cam bearing that you have to slide up against the little lip. The bearing has an oil hole on it does it matter what direction that oil passage is facing? Up, down, left or right ? Thanks for the help .
Good Afternoon and great question, the ONLY thing you need to make sure is that the bearing rests against the inner lip of the head. The orientation of that oil hole does not matter! Enjoy the ride, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation thank you
Great content, many thanks. I checked my valve clearances at 60 hours and found both inlet are of of spec. I have measured my shims with a Vernier calliper and also a micrometer. One of the shims has 2.575 written on it but measures 2.560 with the vernier and 2.508 with the micrometer. I put this down to the wear of the head of the valve stem and the wear of the follower against the shim. The vernier cannot measure the wear of the valve stem against the shim, whereas the micrometer does.
Thanks for the vid, I just did mine using this video as a reference. Wouldn't have felt confident without it. Was easier than I expected. I left the cam in, and just lifted them and the follower, and used a magnet to fish out the shim. Thanks for the tip on the bearing position (behind the gears). Wouldn't have realized that it's important. I think my exhaust bearing wasn't seated properly (all the way back) when I opened it up. Any tips on inspecting or servicing the exhaust decompression mechanism?
Fantastic video. I'm getting ready to do this on a 2016 390RR that I just bought. Lots of miles on this bike - very curious as to what I'll find. Thanks for the content.
Thanks for checking out our video! Hopefully yours looks just as good as these ones! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Very helpful video here. Do you mind explaining what happens if you don't maintain your valve tolerances?
Good Morning! Without proper adjustment the bike will get harder to start, run rough and overall just not be good for the engine life. Eventually it will quit working. Enjoy The Ride, Jared
hi, congratulations for the videos! I can remove all 4 shims at the same time, they all need to be done and I would have to order the various shims because I don't have the kit. can you be sure if you mark the chain with the cams? better to hang it? thanks for the help
I suppose you can but I use one or the other cams to keep the chain in place. I recommend one at a time. Enjoy The Ride, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation in the end I got the kit 😁 could you show me the calculation for the ideal game? I have 0.08 in similar suction on the entire side and the plate hypothetically 2.50, what is the exact calculation to do counting the 0.10 and 0.175 gaps? thanks for your help and greetings from Italy
Thanks for these videos. I have a 2020 390 and there is very little content on the 20+ models. I adjusted my valves recently and have a question. Does the orientation of the oil hole on big end cam bearing matter? I hope not. Thanks
Thanks for the comment! The hole can go in any direction as the manual does not give a specific direction.
Thanks for the comment! The hole can go in any direction as the manual does not give a specific direction.
Page 138 of the service manual has the description as well. Thanks!
What is your experience with the plastic oil gears. Change at 100hrs?
@@nick4872 It's not a bad idea, more of a piece of mind thing which is what we are all looking for. We have never had a bike fail due to the plastic gears however we have found some that are pretty worn. I will order a set and do a video installing them in our 2021 430 Race Edition shop bike in the next month. Thanks!
Subscriber here, my 2020 beta rrs 390 just hit 1000 miles. Was wondering if the valves need adjustment. Bike runs starts perfectly, only thing there is a little backfire when I go down hill. Thanks for all you do
Good Morning, I would consider checking your valves now. Usually we do our first valve check around that time just to make sure they don't need an initial adjustment. Thanks for watching, Jared
@SG1971 Hey, just wondering, did adjusting your valves correct the backfiring issue?
My 17' 390 RR-S backfires and shoots smoke out of the exhaust frequently when aggressively blipping the throttle (to lift wheel or to accelerate quickly). It only does it on the initial blip. No other issues with it though. Only 41 hours on the bike. Starts fine.
@@alvk3996 haven’t done it yet. I tightened the spark plug and it helped. I don’t think My issue is as bad as yours. Wish I can be more help
SG1971 , were your valves in spec? Are you doing it yourself? If not, how much was the cost of the inspection and/or adjustment?
@@captainamerica9353 my local Beta dealer said they've never done a valve adjustment and that they may not be the best place to get it done, however they quoted just the valve check at $260. They also said they don't stock shims and they they don't know how long it would take to receive the necessary shims should I need an adjustment. Lol...
So I ordered a shim kit on Amazon for $80 and did it myself following this video and the manual on the BetaUSA site. It wasn't difficult, you just need to be careful and follow the steps. Don't go outside the steps unless you know what you're doing.
Both of my intake valves were too tight. My left intake valve was .08 and the right one was right at the limit, .10. I adjusted both of them. The exhaust valves were within spec.
So you don't lock the cranckshaft with the special bolt ... old school which works well too ;) Speaking of old school, the stick in the plug hole to get the highest piston point is a good trick too ;) ( but if caring to have the real up piston timing of course ) THanks for the video. clear, good speech. Good job !!! kudos !!!
Thanks for the comment! Good question with the crank shaft lock. There is one on this bike, all you would have to do is pull the skid plate, unscrew the hex head bolt and take the thick washer off then reinsert the bolt once the bike was at TDC. I typically only do that when I'm doing a full engine rebuild. I always mark the timing chain and cams with a marker so I can make sure it goes back together exactly as it came apart. Also the screw driver down the spark plug hole is a good trick as well. If I couldn't see the cams to know where I wanted them then that would of been helpful!
@@3SeasRecreation take care to protect the fuel coupling ( a cutted finger of latex glove put lie a condom works well). If there is some fuel drops going out of the coupling when disconnecting, it's mandatory to clean it as fast as possible, the fuel contaminates the plastic very fast and makes the coupling more and more difficult..
Nice video, thanks. In case I have to change all four shims, I will have to remove both camshafts. Any advice / precautions to keep in mind? And is it possible that the shims, for example of the exhaust valves, are of different thickness or should they match?
Good question! Yes you would have to remove the front (exhaust) camshaft as well. I would recommend doing ONE cam at a time. Once you had the intake done, put the cam chain back on and then take the cam chain off the exhaust. I just like to keep the chain right where it needs to be during the whole process. You will do the same exact process with the exhaust, they use the same finger followers and same shims as the intake. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation
Thanks, Jared. This is what I thought, but what has confused me is that on page 144 of the workshop manual (I am lucky to have the book in pdf), there is a scheme that says that before removing the exhaust camshaft, we have to remove the admission one, that is, it seems that it is not possible to have only the admission one in place. What do you think? On the other hand, the question about the shims meant that if it is possible, for example, one of the exhaust valves needs 2,400 mm while the other one 2,425, or the normal thing is that both thickness are the same. Thanks a lot !!
@@mototrailadventure2725 Good Morning, glad you have a manual! Keep in mind all Beta manuals are live on their website at betausa.com so that's a great resource if you are traveling. Also, yes it is common to need different size shims for each set of valves. For example I find that the LH intake usually needs a bigger shim at each adjustment compared to the RH intake.
Hi, as a long time Beta driver I love this channel. Just one question: Isn't it better to use the lock screw for the crankshaft for this kind of work? 🙂 Regards from Germany, Volker
Good Morning, yep there is a screw in the bottom that is recommended to use. I suppose I have done so many of them that I don't worry about it. I think as long as you mark everything really good with a marker before you take anything apart or move it you should be good to go! Enjoy the Ride, Jared
Great vidieo very detailed
Glad it helped! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Awesome vid! Thank you!
Glad you liked it! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Great Video. Is it possible.to buy the shims from Beta ? Regards from Lithuania.
Hi!. Congrats for the video again. According to Beta manual, the length of the cam chain spring tensioner should be not shorter than 74mm. If I only want to check that, Can I simply remove the spring cover to check the spring length... without having to open the valve cover to get the engine to the top dead center? Thank you
Good Morning, yes you can unscrew the hex head screw that is centered in the cam chain tensioner and pull that spring out that hole. Or you can unscrew the whole cam chain tensioner which I believe is a 19mm wrench and then reset the tensioner while you have it out. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation I thought to reset the tensioner should be only done with the engine to the dead top center, that's why I thought only to unscrew the hex head screw that is centered in the cam chain tensioner. Anyway I´ll unscrew the hex head screw because is easier. Thank you 🙂
Hey, no you can unscrew the cam chain tensioner at any time. The bike only needs to be kept at TDC if you are taking the chain off and taking cams out and need to put them back in. If you are just unscrewing the tensioner from the side of the cylinder you are not messing with the actual chain to where it could be put back on the cams wrong. I wouldn't take the cam chain tensioner out and then spin the motor over that might cause an issue.. Thanks, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation You mean you wouldn't take the cam chain tensioner out and spin the motor... without having put the tensioner again in place. That's for sure, never thougnt to make such a thing. But if I only remove the spring, check it, and put it back in place, no problem. Thanks a lot
Forgive me for insisting but english is not my native language and i'm afraid I don't understand you well 😅
Awesome ! Thanks 🙂
No problem! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Well done tech video .Thanks. Wish I something like this when I first checked my valves on my Ducati in the 90s.
Can you lend some wisdom as to the reality of the Beta 4t factory piston and bottom end bearing replacement schedule in the factory manual? Looks like you have been working with bikes that are used in competition and most of us use them as playbikes or a mix of dual sport and trail duty. The factory replacement schedule seems a bit too frequent for lighter duty use.
Hey good morning, thanks for the positive feedback! We are so impressed with the Beta engines that typically we don't consider doing any bottom end/ piston work on a normal trail bike until well after 100 hours. Of course, with our race bikes it can be done sooner, just depends on who is riding the bike and the overall race conditions.
@@3SeasRecreation guy you can check thumper talk , ben500 has a 500 beta 4T which have more than 500 hours on it, without any problem. and he used it in winter with snow kit too, etc.. not really soft use :)
@@babar69110 I don't doubt it! We have had very good success with these bikes and good longevity. We also live in the cold where they get abused in the winter (Western New York)
Aren't you suppose to wait 24 hours for the ultra grey to cure before starting the bike?
Where can I find that magnet tool you used on removing the shims?
what was the bit that you used to get the safety screws removed to get the cover off of the head?
I've got a 21 350rrs I purchased from you guys last July, at what hours should I have the valves checked?
Hey Evan! For a typical trail/ dual sport rider I would consider checking your valves at 40 hours and then 100 hours as long as you do the normal oil & air filter changes. If the bike is being raced I would like to do them at 20 hours, 60 hours 80 hours... Just more precaution with the race bikes. As always, if you hear or feel something is different ( hard to start) then we would want to do it much sooner!
Awesome thanks for the input. I mostly trail ride. I'm at about 22 hours now been changing the oil/ trans oil regularly the bike has been solid, hope to keep it running good for a long time👍
@@evan71211 I have a 2018 390race and checked the valves at 30hrs. Both intakes were too tight, and one exhaust. Shimmed out to proper clearances and the bike never ran better. Starts faster, and has more low end pop. I believe that the valves were out from factory. Not hard to do just a pain in the ass. Invest in good tools to make the job easier.
I have a 20 390 and both of my intake valves were slightly tight too.
@@3SeasRecreation Hi. Awesome video, congratulations. Could you describe the kind of noise that may suggest that the valves need to be checked?. Thank you!
Hello, nice video! What tool do you use to torque the cam bridge? There is no space for any torque wrench I have...
Good Evening, my special tool is my wrist lol... It is very hard to reach in to two of those bolts with any sort of torque wrench. Enjoy the ride, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation Yes, I agree. The maintenance schedule in the manual says that you have to re-torque the cylinder head after 5 hours. This got me really bamboozled. Does anybody do that? I didn't do that after 5h, but when checking valve clearance I decided to take the engine out and see if the head bolts will move when trying to re-torque. No movement at all on the head bolts, but at least it was easy to torque everything else when the engine was out.
SUB. HERE WHEN IS IT A GOOD TIME TO REPLACE THE CAM CHAIN, ANYWAY TO CHECK IT..
Good Morning and thanks for being a subscriber, much appreciated! I wouldn't do a timing chain unless you really noticed the cams not lining up correctly with the top of the cylinder head when you are adjusting your valves. However, if I were doing a complete engine rebuild then yes, I would do one at that time.
I have 23 430rr. Are the valve clearance the same? And what are the torque specs for the cam bridge? I am having trouble finding the correct information. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks.
Good Afternoon! Yep same info, honestly I don't know the torque off top of my head. Unless the service manual says it I would just get them all evenly tight by hand. Enjoy The Ride, Jared
Hi , tnx for video. in right side on silinder head is 3 black cup (same like oil level check cup) nuts 5mm hex key. do you know , what for the middle cup nut is ? tnx
That is a good question, once I have another bike apart I will look into that and give you an update! Thanks, Jared
Curious how much it usually costs for you to do the work? ... Thanks.
Typically its an Hour of labor to "check the valves". If they need adjusted then it's another 1/2 to 1 hour of labor. Just depends on the model! Enjoy the ride, Jared
How many hours from brand new should one have to typically have to shim valves?
Good Morning, it depends on the rider and conditions. Typically I like to check the valves around 30 hours but after that you can wait until you feel the bike getting harder to start or when you can hear a difference in the engine. Enjoy the ride, Jared
The bearing on the cam has a little hole in the race. Is there a specific orientation for that hole?
Good Evening and good question. You can place that bearing in any orientation that you wish, just make sure that it is pushed all the way against the machined tab that it is supposed to press against. There is a channel that goes all the way around that allows oil to enter that bearing.
@@3SeasRecreation Awesome, thank you for the info.
Hi awesome video! Do you know the valve specs for beta 520rr (2010)? Best regards, Bertjan
Hey, yep I sure do! I will attach the link to the online Beta service manual and if you look on page 119 it has the chart.
If the link doesn't work here is the break down:
Intake: 0 .10 (mm) --> 0.175 (mm)
Exhaust: 0.125 (mm) --> 0.20 (mm)
betausa.com/content/SUPPORT_PDF's/2010-2011%20service%20manual%20RR-RS.pdf
3SeasRecreation thank you very much!!!!
hello, I have a ´20 350 racing with 3000 miles on its engine, it never has a hard time starting, neither with a cold engine, nor with a hot engine, would it be necessary to do a valve adjustment?, thanks
Very nice! That's some awesome ride time on your bike, congrats on that! I would certainly take the valve cover off and just inspect your valves to make sure they are all in spec. By the sounds of it they don't need adjustment but that is some serious mileage compared to some customers. I'm always looking for that piece of mind before the next big ride! Enjoy the ride, Jared
Haven’t gotten the chance to check mine yet. Bought a 22’ 430 and at the 2 hour mark the shim apparently came out. Ever had that happen?
Hey Good Morning, I have never had that happen. Is the bike back at the dealer? Hope they can help you fix it quick!
@@3SeasRecreation I brought it to them on the 29th just got a call yesterday about it. Lol it’s fixed now but was like the shim came out??? What?
How do I get a book, I need to do a complete tear down
Good evening! Beta supplies all manuals on the consumer website in PDF form. Go ahead and download then have it printed at like an office max if you wish. Thanks for watching, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation I need the better one. I need the one like the Beta shops have
THAT IS A VERNEER CALIPER NOT A MICROMETER
Thanks for the comment and your input! Enjoy the ride!
@@3SeasRecreation It's like calling a ratchet a hammer ....even if you use it like one....don't make it right....lol party on.... love my 21 500 RRS!!!✌
Not exactly the same correlation. It may not be technically called that. But most everyone knows it’s micro and it’s measuring meters. So it still got the point across to the lay people…
When you put the valve cover back on , what did you put on the rubber gasket on the left side?
Good Morning! I use "Ultra Grey". It makes a nice seal around the cam lobe holes, otherwise it can seep oil and look bad in dust. Enjoy the ride, Jared
@@3SeasRecreation Is there any way to know that I have to change that rubber gasket ? (Hope it makes sense english is not my native language)