How To Play DRAWS [Poker STRATEGY]
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- Опубліковано 19 жов 2024
- You can’t expect to flop the nuts every time. Often when you hit a straight or flush, it will come on the turn or the river. While it is easy to play a made hand, it is important to study how to navigate draws that have the potential of eventually “getting there”. Today, we will discuss draws, and how to properly play them in various spots.
Whether flopping an open-ender with suited connectors or having a gutshot and flush-draw with ace-five suited, the separation is in the preparation when it comes to playing your draws. Drawing hands often result in large pots by the river, making it critical you keep your composure and remember the fundamentals.
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I always appreciate hearing that other people also get shit from their opponents about the way they play. I am frequently belittled at my local tournaments for not playing as straight forward as they play, and I try not to let it bother me, but I'm only human after all! 🤷♀️
Don’t listen to them! Some ppl are just bullies so just focus on perfecting your craft
Listen to them, ask opinions but do what you think is right. Work on your game when they won't work on theirs and at some point you beat them all. Don't worry, the success doesn't come tomorrow but it will come if you study well,
How to play draws optimally should include the following 5 factors in any given situation:
1) your opponent’s image
2) your image
3) range and nut advantages
4) position
5) effective stack SPR
Against skilled players/grinders, having the nut advantage probably counts the least as skilled players realize the odds of their opponent randomly showing up with a nutted hand on a generally junky looking board are typically pretty low in any given spot, so skilled players won’t be too scared to play big pots against you at times despite you opting for value sizing with your bet/raise just because you have the nut advantage. Having the nut/range advantage matters most when playing deep stack poker against a skilled opponent. It’s also critical to be self aware of your table image at all times, particularly when involved in a big pot. Regardless of what you know your true playing style is, you have to consider how your opponents view your table image based on the way you have played during that particular session and how it will affect their decision making against you.
Against tight recs, I recommend playing high equity draws like nutted made hands on every street regardless of your position to print EV. Against tight recs with weak draws, I recommend doing more floating and having a plan to take the optimal line of repping a big hand on the river if you brick your draw, assuming said tight rec opponent’s range is going to be capped at a 1 pair holding given the position/line based ranges. Against LAG recs (loose and aggressive) I recommend playing high equity draws like strong nutted made hands on every street, as the odds go up they may stay in with a very marginal hand like 3rd pair or worse hoping to catch 2 pair or trips on the river, and you get to print EV against them in those scenarios if you both brick the turn and river, as even LAGs (if they are recs) won’t be good at spotting when to hero call with marginal made hands like that on the river. Plus LAG recs may choose to overvalue marginal made hands by making huge bets and raises on on the flop and then you can decide if your draw has enough equity to make it worth the gamble. Against LAG recs with weak draws, I recommend floating if they are using smaller sizes with their aggression and if you brick, you can determine if the situation is right to steal on the river.
Against TAG (tighter but aggressive when in a pot type pros/grinders) with ANY draws, I recommend floating the flop and then repping a nutted hand on the turn (assuming the board is correct and you have at least the range advantage and the SPR of the effective stack isn’t too low), with the intention of not being too scared to follow it up with the big value size on the river to be able to successfully nut peddle against said skilled pro/grinder, assuming the river wouldn’t have counterfeited a previously nutted hand. Against LAG pros/grinders who can make really good tough decisions on the river with a strong draw, I recommend the same strategy as you would play any draw against TAG grinders/pros. Against LAG pros/grinders though, I recommend disposing of most of your weaker draws unless you can credibly rep a big hand on a later street given your image and the nut/range advantages.
6. And if you’re playing Omaha.. Which is a form of anti-poker.. lol..
I'm still with you coach.
I've just taken the quiz. 8/10... so place for improvement!
8/10 in the quiz.
12:30 Hmm I thought this was an obvious fold, but the discussion of what hands you'd still raise with was eye-opening.
Great video. Love your content. 8/10
28:30 In GTO a bet ALWAYS looks like EXACTLY what it is, because one of the assumptions is that your opponent knows your ranges (but not your current hand) and you know your opponent's range. So the theoretical opponent ALWAYS KNOWS a bet is some combination of value and bluff, just not which one it is in the current hand. (As J Little said.)
I think the biggest moment for me that changed the effectiveness of my strategy was when I really internalized how bad it is to call with draws when out of position. Sometimes you have to do it (like some boards a raise just doesn't really make sense so you have to call with some draws) but it should be a last resort as it just burns EV so badly to call OOP with hands that can't win at showdown.
I have a question. What is the best field size for mtt to profit in? ... I play 100-200 player tournaments and win enough to slowly profit but I'm feeling like the top prize of a maximum of x50 buy in isn't that great and maybe I should play more bigger tournaments to maximise my profits ? What size do you prefere?
I play a small night schedule on party and field size is 50-100. I made $50 after buying into around 8 different tournaments (maybe a reentry or two) and bought in for no more than $15
Small fields will have smaller prizepools, but they will also be less variance.
8/10. Just waiting for the answer to how to hit my draws lol.
Hitting your draws is against the rules, sry
I love learning. Theyre learning from you.I'm learning to defeat you ;D
how to take this quiz on pokercoaching?
18:45 Hmm OK interesting... I thought the low board meant you couldn't believably continuation bet here, but maybe because your J-high hand has so little showdown value you need to give it a shot anyway? I didn't consider that your overcards are probably good if you hit, which is a big oversight.
I don’t understand the explanation for 5. It says if a J comes on the turn KQ makes the nut straight. But there’s already a J on the flop, so a turn J doesn’t take AK any closer to a straight. Is this an error, or am I missing something?
Must have meant A or 9?
4:30 I thought the fact that this pot is multi-way and you have the nut draw was the key factor to choose call. You don't want to raise, get re-raised, and force out lesser flush draws while charging yourself more to draw!
7 out of 10 on the quiz
3:00 I thought the fact that you have a lot more 5s in your range was the key factor for choosing Raise.
What are your flop raises in A7 hand?
6:30 Seems like you'll get a lot of folds with a jam given how poorly this should connect with the PFR's range, though hands as weak as AQ high may call.
One very important note this is only valuable in live poker playing like this online no way
??? Why? Most of these are bog-standard spots, not even that close
I’d say the opposite. He’s giving advice on how to play as close to GTO as possible, which is more relevant online b/c the opponents are better.
In live poker, the best way to play these spots is more dependent on the types of mistakes your individual opponents make. That will dictate how far you should deviate from GTO.
Kind of a rough video JT. Probably could’ve done with only the answer review section
"...he's broke now" LOL rekt
Nothing more satisfying than shoving with nuts and opponent calls... because it looks suspicious!
It's easy - just play as if you hit your hand already and trust in the heart of the cards...
wait wrong game.
I have a suggestion for the topic.
The psychological aspects of playing against a friend who is in a bad situation, needs money or rehabilitation in his own eyes as a player, and you know you play better but winning this one won't give you a satisfaction but for him means a lot etc.
This is an extremely difficult spot I found myself in and I have made that mistake not playing an A game against a friend in distress, who had lost a lot when I got ITM in almost everything I'd played within 10 days (my game is very selective since I am not bankrolled). Somehow I'm such an idiot, I've managed to find myself in this situation 3 times. The last was the last one, for sure.
But if at the moment when I was sitting at the final table someone had told me I should play properly (I was playing extremely passively but still had over a half of the chips - the filed was weak), I wouldn't give away most of my stack with a draw. I didn't need that cup, my friend did. I have made my conclusions but I think this is important to discuss this wider.
I hate gutshots unless there is a flush draw as well.
The problem is on many boards you will just have way too many give-ups if you don't continue with your gutshots. For example on a board like 955r, there are literally no direct draws other than 87 and 76. So even if you're raising those it might not be enough; you might have to go with some ace-high backdoor nut flush draw type hands as well. Your equity when called is really bad but there's no avoiding it on a board like this.
36:20 Typo here. Q comes you make a straight but AK makes the nut straight.
Got6/10 on quiz
I don’t mind drawing… If I’m playing Omaha.. lol..
Otherwise, it better be (better than) the correct price..
31:30 I got 7/10. Doesn't seem like it tells you which ones you got wrong, which is a bit annoying.
NFTs . . . really?