Great video, its a pleasure watching a real mechanic methodically work rather than shade tree's. There's not cart mechanic with in reasonable distance of my location (100 miles or so) so I'm forced to play shade tree mechanic, thanks for the insight into what maybe the problem with our cart !
My neighbour was a mechanic and when he had an armature like the one in this cart he would spin it with a drill and then take a file and buff up the armature. I sure miss him and all his little tricks.
even though you are a pro i am happy you showed the entire process. I am working on a club car that has easier access to the generator but does shows it is not charging so that is where i will start. Thanks be safe and take care.
I have a 92 club car. it is a no crank. went from a slow crank to no. I will watch this again to gleen out more of the details on checking the voltages that you mentioned. This looks like it may solve my no crank..
Check your battery if it was slow and then no crank. You will need a load tester to verify its state of charge. If the battery is good, it could be wore out brushes in the starter/generator. Solenoids rarely present this symptom.
Hi Kevin , I have a 1995 G14 Yamaha the oil light on there’s plenty of oil in the engine , the engine has started to sound like it’s over revving any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
There is a wire that connects to the oil sensor on the back of the engine. It may have come off or the oil sensor is shot. Over-revving could be from a stuck cable.
Im fighring this exact issue right now. What was the root cause here? I mean you basically removed it and cleaned it, then replaced it and it worked. Do you think the naked wires were grounding it out? Im referring to the starter portion.
Did you ever see anyone fuse that microswitch wire? I have a cart that has that fuse blowing which led me here. I took apart the generator and had a bearing that blew apart. I wonder if that is what is blowing the fuse.
Hey i have a golf cart dont know year Yamaha golf cart had a wire come loose last time this time wire is fine fuse is fine might have to R&R the engine
Can you tell me wear the clear hose goes that is running by your fuel line or filter. I am working on a 1991 and that hose on mine is connected to the carb and from there I don't see wear the other end goes. I thing it is suppose to go to the engine crank case some were. Great video thank you.
I have an 03' gas carryall project. No crank no start. New starter/generator, new solenoid. solenoid clicks fast when pedal is depressed. Any ideas for troubleshooting?
Kevin, i have an old Golf Club Cart. About 1993, not sure if you can help me. Cart haș sat for 6 months due to lockdown, it was fine before, but now it works fine apart from the bleeping noise will not stop So ive hâd to disconnect the battery. Can you advise me?
Great video, I’m having the same issues with my cart. I replaced the starter 2 weeks ago and now It’s doing this. How often do you hear of new starters doing this? I’ve replaced the solenoid before the starter but it didn’t make any difference. Do you think there’s something causing it to ruin the starter?
If the voltage regulator is bad, wouldn’t it still start? I’m supposed to be getting the regulator tomorrow so I can replace it. I bought another starter and it still doesn’t start but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over. This thing is driving me crazy. I put the other solenoid back on it and it’s the same thing. Any thoughts on what else it may be? I have checked the wiring but don’t see any issues.
If the voltage reg. is bad, it should still start, pending you have no other issues. The voltage regulator is responsible for maintaining charge to the battery. If you are able to jump the solenoid and it cranks, you have an issue with the solenoid or somewhere in the wiring between the battery and solenoid start circuit. Power needs to go through the key switch, pedal switch, shifter switch then to the solenoid. If any of those "lockout" switches are bad, nothing will work right. Power is fed to this circuit from the fuse block in the control box. It should be a 10A blade fuse.
I have a charging issue with my 2007 Club Car Carryall 232 that I just can't seem to figure out. The golf cart cranks over perfectly fine multiple times. But the battery isn't getting charged. I bypassed the voltage regulator and connected a wire straight from the DF terminal to the battery (-). My voltage reading at the battery doesn't change when I rev it out. I actually get a little spark if I try to remove the cable from the battery while it's revving. I opened up the starter generator and the brushes look good and so does the commutator (nice and clean) surface. I sanded every washer and nut to be sure that It wasn't just a faulty connection. Am I missing anything here? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hey sir I just got the solenoid replaced and put a new starter generator in. It worked briefly but now when I hit the gas the solenoid just makes a rumbling noise and nothing else happens. I'm not sure what it could be at this point. Any ideas of what else could be wrong, I'd greatly appreciate any ideas.
I have a cart in my fleet that runs great but after a bit you stop and it has to almost cool down before it starts..ive changed everything from ignition back plus new fittings.. was told the starter generator after so much use will get hot and not start..pulling it today for rebuild..does this sound correct?
I would check the solenoid first. Check it with a volt meter after it gets hot and shuts down to see if 12v is at both large terminals when pressing the pedal. Starter/generators shouldn't be too hot. The brushes may be getting stuck in their holders.
Hello, could you please advise me with my golf cart. I have a vegas performance motor but is a pull start. I want to get it to start with the gas pedal, but I don't even know where to start. Battery is dead and not sure if the generator/start is working it does spins when I turn the motor on. I would appreciate any tips you could give me. Thank you!
Have very similar issue. No start w/pedal. I checked voltage across both solenoid terminals and I get 12.5 on the red, but zero on the white cable w/my kid pressing the gas pedal. However, I CAN get the motor to turn if I "jump" the solenoid with a short screwdriver. What does that mean since yours doesn't turn when you 'jump' your solenoid with your pliers? FYI I've replaced my solenoid 3 times already.
It sounds like there is no voltage getting to the solenoid to activate it when you press the gas pedal. You need to check voltage on the small terminals. Check the main fuse next to the solenoid. Check the microswitches and make sure they are working properly. The 2 microswitches in the control box have 2 functions. One, kills the ignition when you release the gas pedal. The other completes the circuit to the solenoid to energize it. Check the microswitches on the shifter as well. One is for the backup alarm and the other is for service/run mode. Also check your key switch. If its faulty, it will not send power through the entire circuit.
I have a similar problem on my 95 club car. No crank on the starter just a click from the control box. Back up alarm and lights work so I don't suspect a batter issue. I tested the solenoid as well, charge on the red and no charge on the white. Do you believe its the solenoid?
Yes, it sounds like the solenoid is not closing correctly, internally. I would replace it. Remember to use a continuous duty rated solenoid. A standard starter solenoid will not work.
You will need to use a volt meter and check to see if power is passing through the solenoid on both terminals. If not, replace it. If it is, the starter/generator may need brushes or replaced.
Larger voltage regulator is for club car pioneer 1200 or carryall..at least they are larger in mine. Get a rubber doorstop to use with your wrench to help with start tension adjustment..might make it easier. And all my carts run 14.75 v when charging not sure if that's correct but it works.
The larger regulators are typically used with the FE350 motor. I use them in a pinch when I don't have the smaller one. I like the bigger one since it can handle more current.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts here's a question..are the selenoids sold on Amazon true constant selenoids? I was told yesterday its a get what you pay for.. ive been paying around 20- 30 for a selenoid..but seeing issues..I was told your typical 50- 70 dollar selenoids would be the better bet for true constant power.
what if you just had to turn your motor a bit then it started up? what would that be? and it was working for 4 days. Just one day stopped to talk to someone then it would not start again. Then I watched this video and turn the motor and it started up again.
Your starter/generator brushes are end of life. Replace them and you should be good to go. Try not to drive it too much like that because it can damage the commutator bars
Why wouldn’t you just disconnect the battery when working on any of the electrical system so you don’t accidentally ruin any of the components or wiring?
Great video, its a pleasure watching a real mechanic methodically work rather than shade tree's. There's not cart mechanic with in reasonable distance of my location (100 miles or so) so I'm forced to play shade tree mechanic, thanks for the insight into what maybe the problem with our cart !
Just subscribed! You saved me from buying a solenoid. My starter just needed to get the 20 years of dust blown out of it.
My neighbour was a mechanic and when he had an armature like the one in this cart he would spin it with a drill and then take a file and buff up the armature. I sure miss him and all his little tricks.
Glad you're back. You are by far the most informative site for golf cart repair.
Wow, thanks! I really appreciate that. I try to provide as much information as I know.
even though you are a pro i am happy you showed the entire process. I am working on a club car that has easier access to the generator but does shows it is not charging so that is where i will start. Thanks be safe and take care.
I appreciate mechanics that actually repair stuff rather than just throw unnecessary parts at it.
You would be referring to me lol. I replace parts till it works.
I have watched lots Utube videos, this is one of the most informative.
Another great repair video. Thank you for sharing your knowledge. You have the best golf cart repair channel on UA-cam.
Can't believe you heard me say that! 🤣 👍👍
I have a 92 club car. it is a no crank. went from a slow crank to no. I will watch this again to gleen out more of the details on checking the voltages that you mentioned. This looks like it may solve my no crank..
Check your battery if it was slow and then no crank. You will need a load tester to verify its state of charge. If the battery is good, it could be wore out brushes in the starter/generator. Solenoids rarely present this symptom.
Hi Kevin , I have a 1995 G14 Yamaha the oil light on there’s plenty of oil in the engine , the engine has started to sound like it’s over revving any ideas would be greatly appreciated !
There is a wire that connects to the oil sensor on the back of the engine. It may have come off or the oil sensor is shot. Over-revving could be from a stuck cable.
Our old 86 club car has the oil light that comes on when the oil level is just less than full. This may help.
Good to see you back.
That's a points file. Goes back to my generation when cars had ignition points. Have one still.
Great Job....takes patients and u got it...
Thanks!
Im fighring this exact issue right now. What was the root cause here? I mean you basically removed it and cleaned it, then replaced it and it worked. Do you think the naked wires were grounding it out? Im referring to the starter portion.
Just a suggestion. A pair of jumper cables to test the motor on the bench.
I prefer to test under load.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts Got it.
Good to see you didnt get coronoed.
Haha, thanks! The business has suffered a little because of the corona-rona. It was a slow start, then super busy and now its completely dead.
It’s a points file for an old manual automotive distributor.
Damn dude! Making that $$$$$
Welcome back missed you.
Thanks! Its been a strange year, for everyone. I don't know if I will have a lot of videos this year, unfortunately.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts it's all good. I've been binge watching all your DS videos. Lol
Did you ever see anyone fuse that microswitch wire? I have a cart that has that fuse blowing which led me here. I took apart the generator and had a bearing that blew apart. I wonder if that is what is blowing the fuse.
your the man kevin! keep up the good work
Hey i have a golf cart dont know year Yamaha golf cart had a wire come loose last time this time wire is fine fuse is fine might have to R&R the engine
Can you tell me wear the clear hose goes that is running by your fuel line or filter. I am working on a 1991 and that hose on mine is connected to the carb and from there I don't see wear the other end goes. I thing it is suppose to go to the engine crank case some were. Great video thank you.
Its the overflow tube for the carb. It should run to the frame and just end.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts Thank you for the info.
Good video very informative
Thank u for sharing Kevin! Have a great day🌅
I have an 03' gas carryall project. No crank no start. New starter/generator, new solenoid. solenoid clicks fast when pedal is depressed. Any ideas for troubleshooting?
Excellent video!
Kevin, i have an old Golf Club Cart. About 1993, not sure if you can help me. Cart haș sat for 6 months due to lockdown, it was fine before, but now it works fine apart from the bleeping noise will not stop So ive hâd to disconnect the battery. Can you advise me?
I have a 96 club car that I put a new solenoid in and still cannot get power to other side of solenoid. Ideas?
Great video, I’m having the same issues with my cart. I replaced the starter 2 weeks ago and now It’s doing this. How often do you hear of new starters doing this? I’ve replaced the solenoid before the starter but it didn’t make any difference. Do you think there’s something causing it to ruin the starter?
Replace the voltage regulator as well. It has failed causing the starter/generator to overheat and work harder.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts thanks.
If the voltage regulator is bad, wouldn’t it still start? I’m supposed to be getting the regulator tomorrow so I can replace it. I bought another starter and it still doesn’t start but I can jump the solenoid and it will turn over. This thing is driving me crazy. I put the other solenoid back on it and it’s the same thing. Any thoughts on what else it may be? I have checked the wiring but don’t see any issues.
If the voltage reg. is bad, it should still start, pending you have no other issues. The voltage regulator is responsible for maintaining charge to the battery. If you are able to jump the solenoid and it cranks, you have an issue with the solenoid or somewhere in the wiring between the battery and solenoid start circuit. Power needs to go through the key switch, pedal switch, shifter switch then to the solenoid. If any of those "lockout" switches are bad, nothing will work right. Power is fed to this circuit from the fuse block in the control box. It should be a 10A blade fuse.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts thank you. I would take this somewhere to get looked at but there is nowhere close to me. I’ll keep checking the switches.
Mine did same thing you can smell it when it burns out , smells like burnt penny's on the starter
Another great video! Keep them coming. Thanks.
I have a charging issue with my 2007 Club Car Carryall 232 that I just can't seem to figure out. The golf cart cranks over perfectly fine multiple times. But the battery isn't getting charged. I bypassed the voltage regulator and connected a wire straight from the DF terminal to the battery (-). My voltage reading at the battery doesn't change when I rev it out. I actually get a little spark if I try to remove the cable from the battery while it's revving. I opened up the starter generator and the brushes look good and so does the commutator (nice and clean) surface. I sanded every washer and nut to be sure that It wasn't just a faulty connection. Am I missing anything here? Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Nice job
Just what I wanted to see.
Thanks 😊
You're welcome 😊
Hey sir I just got the solenoid replaced and put a new starter generator in. It worked briefly but now when I hit the gas the solenoid just makes a rumbling noise and nothing else happens. I'm not sure what it could be at this point. Any ideas of what else could be wrong, I'd greatly appreciate any ideas.
I have a cart in my fleet that runs great but after a bit you stop and it has to almost cool down before it starts..ive changed everything from ignition back plus new fittings.. was told the starter generator after so much use will get hot and not start..pulling it today for rebuild..does this sound correct?
I would check the solenoid first. Check it with a volt meter after it gets hot and shuts down to see if 12v is at both large terminals when pressing the
pedal. Starter/generators shouldn't be too hot. The brushes may be getting stuck in their holders.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts will do..thanks
Hello, could you please advise me with my golf cart. I have a vegas performance motor but is a pull start. I want to get it to start with the gas pedal, but I don't even know where to start. Battery is dead and not sure if the generator/start is working it does spins when I turn the motor on. I would appreciate any tips you could give me. Thank you!
I have no experience with the motor you have. It will depend on how its setup whether or not it will start with the pedal.
Having the same problem,when I jumped the soleinod,it turned the engine over,any ideas
Have very similar issue. No start w/pedal. I checked voltage across both solenoid terminals and I get 12.5 on the red, but zero on the white cable w/my kid pressing the gas pedal. However, I CAN get the motor to turn if I "jump" the solenoid with a short screwdriver. What does that mean since yours doesn't turn when you 'jump' your solenoid with your pliers? FYI I've replaced my solenoid 3 times already.
It sounds like there is no voltage getting to the solenoid to activate it when you press the gas pedal. You need to check voltage on the small terminals. Check the main fuse next to the solenoid. Check the microswitches and make sure they are working properly. The 2 microswitches in the control box have 2 functions. One, kills the ignition when you release the gas pedal. The other completes the circuit to the solenoid to energize it. Check the microswitches on the shifter as well. One is for the backup alarm and the other is for service/run mode. Also check your key switch. If its faulty, it will not send power through the entire circuit.
Alternative lifestyle cutters
Diagonal cutters
Good job
Thanks
Where did you replace the regulator
I have a similar problem on my 95 club car. No crank on the starter just a click from the control box. Back up alarm and lights work so I don't suspect a batter issue. I tested the solenoid as well, charge on the red and no charge on the white. Do you believe its the solenoid?
Yes, it sounds like the solenoid is not closing correctly, internally. I would replace it. Remember to use a continuous duty rated solenoid. A standard starter solenoid will not work.
Okay great, thanks for the reply. Your videos made it so easy!
Hey Kevin got a 96 g16a it’s just clicking at the solenoid any suggestions
You will need to use a volt meter and check to see if power is passing through the solenoid on both terminals. If not, replace it. If it is, the starter/generator may need brushes or replaced.
Larger voltage regulator is for club car pioneer 1200 or carryall..at least they are larger in mine. Get a rubber doorstop to use with your wrench to help with start tension adjustment..might make it easier. And all my carts run 14.75 v when charging not sure if that's correct but it works.
The larger regulators are typically used with the FE350 motor. I use them in a pinch when I don't have the smaller one. I like the bigger one since it can handle more current.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts here's a question..are the selenoids sold on Amazon true constant selenoids? I was told yesterday its a get what you pay for.. ive been paying around 20- 30 for a selenoid..but seeing issues..I was told your typical 50- 70 dollar selenoids would be the better bet for true constant power.
what if you just had to turn your motor a bit then it started up? what would that be? and it was working for 4 days. Just one day stopped to talk to someone then it would not start again. Then I watched this video and turn the motor and it started up again.
Your starter/generator brushes are end of life. Replace them and you should be good to go. Try not to drive it too much like that because it can damage the commutator bars
Why wouldn’t you just disconnect the battery when working on any of the electrical system so you don’t accidentally ruin any of the components or wiring?
There is no active power going past the solenoid unless the key is on and accelerator pedal are pressed.
@@Kevinsgolfcarts fair enough. Sláinte
Great video
Good stuff
Glad you enjoyed
the file is an old points file
Thanks!
You mean pLandemic..lol