My Dad always advised that after moving to a new field, especially if you had travelled on a bumpy or rough road/pass, you should pull the needles back against their stop. Just in case the bouncing on the road had shaken them downwards a bit.
Definitely helped! Was going crazy looking for 3 dots on the plunger, not realizing it was two notches! Damn New Holland for making equipment that just keeps working! LOL!
Great video. I have a S69 which is very similar. I'm going to check that follower bushing, and also the knotter brake drag. I did all new chains when I first got it. Made 1000 bales with it last year, and it's at least 65 years old at this point. Only problem was some knots hanging on the billhook, but I think it was bad twine at the end of a ball because once I switched to the next ball the problem went away. Still makes a square, tight bale tied with sisal.
Might be wore out, but still a good old baler. May I suggest checking the wear/pressure on the needle arm brake(right side of chute and knotted assembly). Alot of times they either get excess grease or play in them that allow the needles to "drift" during the cycle. That would also explain why the timing marks "wander" on the units knotter drive clutch. Also puzzling me is why your plunger clearance is so close to the interference dog, mine is timed so there is almost 2inches between the leading edge of the plunger and the dog at full needle retraction. Something more than a simple bushing is wrong here, dig a little deeper. Just cause it works, doesn't mean it's right.
I had the same problem with my 68. I put about 6 wraps of electrical tape on that bushing a couple years ago. That worked. Haven't got around to a more permanent fix yet. Maybe next season.
My hayliner 68 started doing that this past week October 2020. Having 1 bale maybe get made then shearing pins like you. I actually ajusted that bar and almost got a cycle done but failed.... So my next detail is to replace that follower you replaced. Thanks for the vid. Bery helpful.
My Dad always advised that after moving to a new field, especially if you had travelled on a bumpy or rough road/pass, you should pull the needles back against their stop.
Just in case the bouncing on the road had shaken them downwards a bit.
A wore out new holland 68 better than most new balers
Amen
Check the tension on the needle break on the other end of that shaft
How to fix the time how
Definitely helped! Was going crazy looking for 3 dots on the plunger, not realizing it was two notches! Damn New Holland for making equipment that just keeps working! LOL!
Great video. I have a S69 which is very similar. I'm going to check that follower bushing, and also the knotter brake drag. I did all new chains when I first got it. Made 1000 bales with it last year, and it's at least 65 years old at this point. Only problem was some knots hanging on the billhook, but I think it was bad twine at the end of a ball because once I switched to the next ball the problem went away. Still makes a square, tight bale tied with sisal.
There is a sweeper that pulls the knot off the bill hook. May need to be adjusted. You basically have to bang it with a hammer to close it up.
Might be wore out, but still a good old baler. May I suggest checking the wear/pressure on the needle arm brake(right side of chute and knotted assembly). Alot of times they either get excess grease or play in them that allow the needles to "drift" during the cycle. That would also explain why the timing marks "wander" on the units knotter drive clutch. Also puzzling me is why your plunger clearance is so close to the interference dog, mine is timed so there is almost 2inches between the leading edge of the plunger and the dog at full needle retraction. Something more than a simple bushing is wrong here, dig a little deeper. Just cause it works, doesn't mean it's right.
We got an old 68 and baled over 800 last Summer. Parts kinda scarce for the tucker mechanism but a good baler
please naber
I had the same problem with my 68. I put about 6 wraps of electrical tape on that bushing a couple years ago. That worked. Haven't got around to a more permanent fix yet. Maybe next season.
I know this is old. yes the worn stop is part of the issue. chain stretch is the reason the 3 dot timing marks do not line up.
Thanks alot for video, i broke both needels and dont no wth is going on
My hayliner 68 started doing that this past week October 2020. Having 1 bale maybe get made then shearing pins like you. I actually ajusted that bar and almost got a cycle done but failed.... So my next detail is to replace that follower you replaced. Thanks for the vid. Bery helpful.
That video really helped out
Derrick Sandoval great!!
Good vid! We started out with a 68 years ago.
farmboy30117 your video of the 268 helped me a lot.
Glad it did!