I always do my own servicing too. One quick tip, I know its wasteful, once the old oil is drained I pour at least half a litre of new oil through the engine too. I'd then replace air and oil filters, then replace sump plug and refill the new oil. Great videos, keep them up :)
Aaah, I love it. Now I’m just thinking why I haven’t been doing that all along. Giving it a bit of a flush. I will definitely be doing that from now on. 👍😊 And thank you, I will do my best to keep up with the weekly videos. 👍
Great video. We have been overlanding through 42 countries in our d3. You have to do your own oil changes. And at least you know you’ve done it right. 👍👍
42 countries 😱😱 That’s insane, I can only dream of those numbers. I’m really impressed to say the least. 😊 Yeah, I try to do most of the work my self so when it breaks down on a trip I’m better equipped to fix it. 😊Need to start my plans for that abroad overland trip now so I don’t get to far behind. 😂😂
Yeah, that’s a great point! I think I double and triple check every bolt. 😅 As you can see me clicking the torque wrench so many times. 😊 Another good point is that you get to know you car so you hopefully know what to do when something eventually breaks out on a trip. 👍😊
Nice video, you did a great job. Just a couple of suggestions for consideration. Before pulling the drain plug, make sure the engine is warm and remove the oil filter and fill cap. This reduces suction and you get a better drain. Also, I would use fresh oil on the filter and plug gaskets. No need to risk contaminating the new oil. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Jerry and thank you for the tips. The engine was still warm after a drive, but I forget to point that out. I have usually left the filter inn to make the flow a bit slower when opening, so I don't spill to much and then open and drain the filter before removing it. Will the filter drain if you haven't opened the sump plug? Don't think I have ever done it in that order before. :) Oil on the o-ring, you are totally right, I just did it the lazy way. 😅 Thanks again, love to get feedback so keep it up, I will do it your way next time to try it out. If I spill it's on you, or I guess it will be on me. 😂
Great job Simon👍🏻 I allways pour some oil in the filter housing before fitting the filter. I also fit all covers AFTER I fill up the engine oil and do a upstart just to make sure there is no leaks from sump plug or filter housing😉
Thanks Robert! I never thought about pouring into the filter housing first, smart, maybe need to test that out next time. And I see your point about the covers, and your right, it’s the correct way. I was guessing someone was going to mention it when I was editing this video. 😊 I think I just wanted to get it done and after so many oil change with no leaks I feel it safe either way. But a great point. 👍😊
I couldn’t agree more! It’s great being in the garage and I, almost, never regret spending the time working on the car. 👍😊 I guess the only time it’s a bit stressful is when you have to have the car ready to a certain time, as summer vacation for instance. 😅😅
Got to do my D4 this week, weather permitting. I can use the suction pump on mine so that means I don't have to crawl around the floor, unless I decide to do the fuel filter aswell.
Yeah, sound like a good deal that pump. 👍😊 Maybe need to get one. Only thing I don’t like is that the yearly service on the sump plate bolts don’t happen. After I started doing the services my self the bolts have never been a problem. 😊 Maybe every other time is enough though if the oil changes is done twice a year. 🤔🤔
Hey, sorry for the late reply, had to translate your comment, didn't auto translate on my phone. Glad the video can help and the socket/spanner size is 32mm on mine. Same as the wheel hub nut I belive. 😊 Best, Simon.
So, are you running 5-30 year around? Did see LR time say 5-40 c3, but you and me living in cold Norway should probably run 5-30 right? I see Mekonomen have sales on castrol now, what specific oil have you chosen?
Hey Tormod! I will be going for 5w-40, I have also seen the video and started doing some research after that and found that the low end temps are the sam for both oils. So staring at -30 will be fine. It’s only the operating temperature that changes, and with the extra load that is put on the crankshaft due to it short construction my theory is that it would be beneficial to go with the 40 and not the 30. Especially considering how old our engines are getting. 😊 Plus, if the engine fails I can blame @Vera_and_Christian 😂 But if you live north of Trøndelag and seeing very cold winters I would stay with the 5w-30, especially if you have a lot of shorter drives on a regular basis. I live outside Trondheim and we rarely see very cold temperatures, and when we go up north in Sweden I let my car warm up first before we drive, because there we can get -30°C in February. But read up on the oils and make your own decisions, I don’t want to be the deciding factor for your oil selection. 😅 I’m actually going to change oil this week, hopefully all oils before we set of on another trip. 👍
@@LandRoverDrive I live in Innlandet, close to Mjøsa so we can have -25 some days still, but not often. I travle between East and west every 14 day over strynefjellet but then the enige is hot so the cold over there shouldn't be a problem. I find oils a bit confusing and tends ro just follow whatever guides say. But LR Times video marked sense so had to ask you since we probably have about the same weather
@@tormodnicholasmortontorger205 You have it colder than me in the winter then. Erik lives in Brumunddal so I get weather updates from there and it tends to be quite cold at times. I don’t think the oil type will have so much to say if you just change it often enough and drive with consideration to the engine, not flooring it on a regular basis. I drive like an old man so I’m not afraid of engine failure. 😊 And if you wait one year I will have drive on 40 oil for one year and you can see if mine is still running. 😂
It's the same process for any combustion engine. Oil volume and filters will be engine specific. But the AJD-V6 is the same base engine as the one in the LR4. But since they will have different oil sumps, the oil volume will most likely differ. The engine in this one is Ford based, so it's a different engine.
@@LandRoverDrive oh ok thank you so much! I prefer to change the oil in my land rover about 8.000 km and sometimes 10 because it burns the oil after to much km , only 5w40 i choose . Hello from Greece
Hey Ben, Build mode is the name used for setting the air suspension in a static mode. It won’t move/self level when you start jacking or do other stuff that would make the suspension wanna self level. 😊 If that made sense? 🤔
@@BenVallack I have a OBD tool called iiDTool which can switch this on. Basically it says to the suspension control unit to not do anything. You can get the same effect if you pull the fuse number 26, i think, in the engine bay fusebox. Removing the power to control unit. 👍😊
@@BenVallack Fuse 26 seems to be correct after a quick check. 👍😊 If you have a leak you can raise the car, pull the fuse, and then see on which corner the car drops because it won’t self level. 😉
Castrol A5 5w30 - Was Edge professional before but this time it was the start/stop oil. My engine has been using 5w30 all its life but this year I passed 230000km so I changed the oil pump and changed to 5w40 C3 oil.
@@LandRoverDrive I have real dilemma about oil... Mine is Discovery 3 TDV6 2007. It was serviced in original service ever since. Never had it seen other mechanics hands... Benussi is putting in 5w30 c1, and in my book that is wrong. They usualy have problem with selling good parts and good oil after they take a ton of your money. Car has passed 610000 km. It has now third motor, last two went bye bye because of crankshaft snapping. This year, to save me from tears, I am starting to fix the car by myself, especially after I saw chinese filters that were paid like originals. For one of their "yearly" services I can do 5, price wise... So, thank you for your answer,.. I will put the A5 in for now.
Regular oil services are more important the oil, as long as you use the correct oil within spec, like the A5. So max 10000km per oil change, and sooner if you run the engine a bit hard. Some will do oil changes even lower as the engine get's older. Self service is the way to go, then you have full control and can do it when it fits you. 👍 Also so rewarding doing it your self and a good feeling driving away with new oil in the engine. 👌
I doing the same - The order for Castrol 5w40 is on it's way as we type. 😊 I don't know to much but I trust LRtime so will be changing from 5w-dumbass to 40. 😂 And if the engine now blows I have someone to blame.
SO who is doing their own oil service? 🤓
I always do my own servicing too.
One quick tip, I know its wasteful, once the old oil is drained I pour at least half a litre of new oil through the engine too.
I'd then replace air and oil filters, then replace sump plug and refill the new oil.
Great videos, keep them up :)
Aaah, I love it. Now I’m just thinking why I haven’t been doing that all along. Giving it a bit of a flush. I will definitely be doing that from now on. 👍😊 And thank you, I will do my best to keep up with the weekly videos. 👍
Great video. We have been overlanding through 42 countries in our d3. You have to do your own oil changes. And at least you know you’ve done it right. 👍👍
42 countries 😱😱 That’s insane, I can only dream of those numbers. I’m really impressed to say the least. 😊 Yeah, I try to do most of the work my self so when it breaks down on a trip I’m better equipped to fix it. 😊Need to start my plans for that abroad overland trip now so I don’t get to far behind. 😂😂
I always do my own Land Rover servicing. At least I know it's been done properly then plus it saves a fortune over main dealer service rates! 😊
Yeah, that’s a great point! I think I double and triple check every bolt. 😅 As you can see me clicking the torque wrench so many times. 😊 Another good point is that you get to know you car so you hopefully know what to do when something eventually breaks out on a trip. 👍😊
Nice video, you did a great job. Just a couple of suggestions for consideration. Before pulling the drain plug, make sure the engine is warm and remove the oil filter and fill cap. This reduces suction and you get a better drain. Also, I would use fresh oil on the filter and plug gaskets. No need to risk contaminating the new oil. Thanks for the video.
Thank you Jerry and thank you for the tips. The engine was still warm after a drive, but I forget to point that out. I have usually left the filter inn to make the flow a bit slower when opening, so I don't spill to much and then open and drain the filter before removing it. Will the filter drain if you haven't opened the sump plug? Don't think I have ever done it in that order before. :) Oil on the o-ring, you are totally right, I just did it the lazy way. 😅 Thanks again, love to get feedback so keep it up, I will do it your way next time to try it out. If I spill it's on you, or I guess it will be on me. 😂
Great job Simon👍🏻 I allways pour some oil in the filter housing before fitting the filter. I also fit all covers AFTER I fill up the engine oil and do a upstart just to make sure there is no leaks from sump plug or filter housing😉
Thanks Robert! I never thought about pouring into the filter housing first, smart, maybe need to test that out next time. And I see your point about the covers, and your right, it’s the correct way. I was guessing someone was going to mention it when I was editing this video. 😊 I think I just wanted to get it done and after so many oil change with no leaks I feel it safe either way. But a great point. 👍😊
👍🏻😊
With this type of filter housing, you'll have to turn the car upside-down for it to work.
A little quality time in the garage makes both car and owner happy! 😁
I couldn’t agree more! It’s great being in the garage and I, almost, never regret spending the time working on the car. 👍😊 I guess the only time it’s a bit stressful is when you have to have the car ready to a certain time, as summer vacation for instance. 😅😅
Right, or if you find out you have got the wrong parts.😫😤
@@jarlefonneland7715 Aaah, the worst, and the stores has just closed. 🤬🤬
Great job Simon. Always good to see how its all done, and you saved a small fortune :-)
Thank you! 👍😊 Yeah, it’s quite straight forward after doing it a couple of times. 👍
Got to do my D4 this week, weather permitting. I can use the suction pump on mine so that means I don't have to crawl around the floor, unless I decide to do the fuel filter aswell.
Yeah, sound like a good deal that pump. 👍😊 Maybe need to get one. Only thing I don’t like is that the yearly service on the sump plate bolts don’t happen. After I started doing the services my self the bolts have never been a problem. 😊 Maybe every other time is enough though if the oil changes is done twice a year. 🤔🤔
Just done my disco
Yesterday 👍
Nice, always a good feeling setting off with fresh oil in the engine. 👍😊
I always add a bottle of ZX 80 in when I do an oil change, seems to help
ZX 80, what’s that? 🤓
@@LandRoverDrive It was the first computer that Clive Sinclair released. I've never seen them bottled, though...
@@rhkavli Hehe, Commodore 64 was the first computer in our house back in the day. :)
You know your car is big, if you need a step to work on the engine! 😂👍
Discovery‘s 3 are just cool cars.
Saw this now. Haha, so true.😁 Wish I had a bigger garage and a lift, would make my life so much easier.
Grazie per il video, lo utilizzerò come tutorial per il prossimo cambio di olio. Che misura ha la chiave per svitare il filtro dell'olio?
Hey, sorry for the late reply, had to translate your comment, didn't auto translate on my phone. Glad the video can help and the socket/spanner size is 32mm on mine. Same as the wheel hub nut I belive. 😊 Best, Simon.
So, are you running 5-30 year around? Did see LR time say 5-40 c3, but you and me living in cold Norway should probably run 5-30 right? I see Mekonomen have sales on castrol now, what specific oil have you chosen?
Hey Tormod! I will be going for 5w-40, I have also seen the video and started doing some research after that and found that the low end temps are the sam for both oils. So staring at -30 will be fine. It’s only the operating temperature that changes, and with the extra load that is put on the crankshaft due to it short construction my theory is that it would be beneficial to go with the 40 and not the 30. Especially considering how old our engines are getting. 😊 Plus, if the engine fails I can blame @Vera_and_Christian 😂 But if you live north of Trøndelag and seeing very cold winters I would stay with the 5w-30, especially if you have a lot of shorter drives on a regular basis. I live outside Trondheim and we rarely see very cold temperatures, and when we go up north in Sweden I let my car warm up first before we drive, because there we can get -30°C in February. But read up on the oils and make your own decisions, I don’t want to be the deciding factor for your oil selection. 😅 I’m actually going to change oil this week, hopefully all oils before we set of on another trip. 👍
@@LandRoverDrive I live in Innlandet, close to Mjøsa so we can have -25 some days still, but not often. I travle between East and west every 14 day over strynefjellet but then the enige is hot so the cold over there shouldn't be a problem. I find oils a bit confusing and tends ro just follow whatever guides say. But LR Times video marked sense so had to ask you since we probably have about the same weather
@@tormodnicholasmortontorger205 You have it colder than me in the winter then. Erik lives in Brumunddal so I get weather updates from there and it tends to be quite cold at times. I don’t think the oil type will have so much to say if you just change it often enough and drive with consideration to the engine, not flooring it on a regular basis. I drive like an old man so I’m not afraid of engine failure. 😊 And if you wait one year I will have drive on 40 oil for one year and you can see if mine is still running. 😂
@@LandRoverDrive don't know Erik, but we both live in the same place then 😅
@@tormodnicholasmortontorger205 Yellow Range Rover Classic owner on the channel. 👍
I do! It’s kind of fun in my opinion. Even though I don’t have a Disco haha
👍 It really is and the car model doesn’t matter. It’s something about fixing stuff with your hands in this digital world. 😊
I'll be doing the 5w40 (no 5w-dumbass) oil change over the weekend; summer's coming!
Same here if the oils arrives before the weekend. 👍😊 And hopefully get time to do a brake service as well.
Great video- is this the same process for the jag 3.0 diesel (xj351)??
Hi Dwayne, not sure. Is this the same engine which is in the Discovery 4?
It's the same process for any combustion engine. Oil volume and filters will be engine specific. But the AJD-V6 is the same base engine as the one in the LR4. But since they will have different oil sumps, the oil volume will most likely differ.
The engine in this one is Ford based, so it's a different engine.
How many kilometres do keep the oil change my friend?? Great great great video 👍👍!
Thank you so much! 👍 I try to keep it down to 15000km. I would like to get it down to 10k km but realistically 15k is where I usually end up. 😊
@@LandRoverDrive oh ok thank you so much! I prefer to change the oil in my land rover about 8.000 km and sometimes 10 because it burns the oil after to much km , only 5w40 i choose . Hello from Greece
@@LandRoverDrive i do it every 10 k and never had a any engine problem with 180 k !
What is ’build mode’? Or did I miss hear what you said?
Hey Ben, Build mode is the name used for setting the air suspension in a static mode. It won’t move/self level when you start jacking or do other stuff that would make the suspension wanna self level. 😊 If that made sense? 🤔
@@LandRoverDrive Ah interesting - how do I enable that?
@@BenVallack I have a OBD tool called iiDTool which can switch this on. Basically it says to the suspension control unit to not do anything. You can get the same effect if you pull the fuse number 26, i think, in the engine bay fusebox. Removing the power to control unit. 👍😊
@@BenVallack Fuse 26 seems to be correct after a quick check. 👍😊 If you have a leak you can raise the car, pull the fuse, and then see on which corner the car drops because it won’t self level. 😉
@@LandRoverDrive Ah cool yeah I knew about the fuse trick - wasn't sure if there was another way. Not sure if I can do that with the iCarSoft V2.
What oil did you put in? Thank you for response.
Castrol A5 5w30 - Was Edge professional before but this time it was the start/stop oil. My engine has been using 5w30 all its life but this year I passed 230000km so I changed the oil pump and changed to 5w40 C3 oil.
@@LandRoverDrive I have real dilemma about oil... Mine is Discovery 3 TDV6 2007. It was serviced in original service ever since. Never had it seen other mechanics hands... Benussi is putting in 5w30 c1, and in my book that is wrong. They usualy have problem with selling good parts and good oil after they take a ton of your money. Car has passed 610000 km. It has now third motor, last two went bye bye because of crankshaft snapping. This year, to save me from tears, I am starting to fix the car by myself, especially after I saw chinese filters that were paid like originals. For one of their "yearly" services I can do 5, price wise... So, thank you for your answer,.. I will put the A5 in for now.
Regular oil services are more important the oil, as long as you use the correct oil within spec, like the A5. So max 10000km per oil change, and sooner if you run the engine a bit hard. Some will do oil changes even lower as the engine get's older. Self service is the way to go, then you have full control and can do it when it fits you. 👍 Also so rewarding doing it your self and a good feeling driving away with new oil in the engine. 👌
❤
Thanks! 😊
hi i'm going to use the 5W40 c3 next time ! my disco 3 is from 2005, so i don't think it have the DPF on.
I doing the same - The order for Castrol 5w40 is on it's way as we type. 😊 I don't know to much but I trust LRtime so will be changing from 5w-dumbass to 40. 😂 And if the engine now blows I have someone to blame.
may better to open first the oil filter !
Hey, I don't just to make a bit of vacuum so the start flow is lower. That's my theory at least. 😊