Beautiful job sir, I'm currently costing my own house to save a staircase which is over 100 years old, the rises and treads won't change but the stringers need to be cladded, I've never don't anything like this before but know I have more knowledge by watching this video I'm a little more confident (great tip to use a template)
Nice job. I love doing custom stairs, everyone is different. Nice change of pace and the challenge can be refreshing at times. Here's a couple of suggestions if you like. For the upper flight I would have added some material to the top of the existing skirt and knee wall before wrapping them, so when your treads are installed they won't sit at the same height of the skirts. They should usually be a couple of inches or so below the top edge of the skirts. They would have matched the lower flight too. Also, I think the edge cap on the plywood would look better if everything was mitered so no end grain was visible at the corners. Hats off to you UA-camrs putting out decent content. Keep up the good work.
I appreciate the compliments and the feedback. Both of your ideas are great. I'll store them in the hard-drive between my ears for the next one. Cheers!
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I'm basically doing the same thing in a 110 year old house and I'm struggling a bit. I assumed that new construction techniques would work, and boy, was I wrong! Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙂 I'm sure today will go faster, haha
@@scottearlsmithFTC It was a wonky, twisted, sagging mess and that inexpensive OSB template saved me over $100 on yet another sheet of cabinet grade plywood I would've mucked up since I could visualize the actual shape of the stringers and adjust. Thanks again, from a new subscriber! Keep 'em coming 🙂
I found you specifically looking for Pro Finish Carpentry; nothing against DIY guys or gals however , I am a pro finish carpenter/ contractor also & I wanted to see how you; a pro done stairs ! I just never put myself out there when it came to stairs! Well I am going to start! I hv the skills and tools ! I know I can do it and now I hv so really good teaching videos from you to get myself outta any jam I come up against! Thank you sir for taking the time!
I am so encouraged that the videos are helping you. Trust me, there are very few stair projects where I don't scratch my head and worry about how it's going to turn out. But that little bit of anxiety somehow makes things turn out better. Not a lot of carpenters doing stair and railing work, so I'm sure you'll excel and get lots of jobs. All the best.
Great video.I wonder when there is a gap on the stair template,if you glued some strips to it,to record the tight fit.Also would a festool track type saw ,help with the angled cuts on the final working piece.
Yes gluing strips onto the template would be ideal actually. On the saw, I've actually bought a cordless Festool HKC 55 saw with a small track for that kind of work. Good eye! Thanks for passing on your wisdom.
Working on an old house. Stairs are butting up against a block wall which will have drywall put on. The treads and risers cannot be removed. I have yet to see a video of notching around the treads and risers which I am strugging with. Any tips and tricks would be helpful.
Thanks for reaching out Thomas. You can send me some pictures via email and possibly I can help. Cheers, Scott (I have a .com website - just google me.)
I am watching your video again and in the few new homes I hv done I have a space between the wall and stairs left for my skirt board! I was wondering is there anyway to create that space that you know of after a DIY’er comes along and does this? Or do you hv to almost do a reverse stringer to make your skirt board?
@@d.a.veneziano9651 If you mean the stair nosings on the original stairs, the best thing to do is cut them off flush and then add the new treads over top. Hope this helps, Scott
Instead of using a scribe tool. Why not just use a scrap piece of plywood at the highest rise and place it in each tread and mark. It is fast and efficient.
Great video Scott! Do you have any experience or videos where you install handrail and balustrades for a single open ended stair case finished with tile?
Thank you for the compliment. I don't a video on that process yet, but I have done them. I normally encourage customers with open stairs to install a bottom rail instead of drilling or mortising into the stair tread. But if folks want that look, I have drilled holes into the ceramic tile with a diamond bit and then used a baluster-shoe to hide the round hole. Not a dream job. But it can work and look great.
Beautiful job sir, I'm currently costing my own house to save a staircase which is over 100 years old, the rises and treads won't change but the stringers need to be cladded, I've never don't anything like this before but know I have more knowledge by watching this video I'm a little more confident (great tip to use a template)
Good luck with your project Tim. Glad the video boosted your confidence. Cheers, Scott
Nice job. I love doing custom stairs, everyone is different. Nice change of pace and the challenge can be refreshing at times. Here's a couple of suggestions if you like.
For the upper flight I would have added some material to the top of the existing skirt and knee wall before wrapping them, so when your treads are installed they won't sit at the same height of the skirts. They should usually be a couple of inches or so below the top edge of the skirts. They would have matched the lower flight too.
Also, I think the edge cap on the plywood would look better if everything was mitered so no end grain was visible at the corners.
Hats off to you UA-camrs putting out decent content. Keep up the good work.
I appreciate the compliments and the feedback. Both of your ideas are great. I'll store them in the hard-drive between my ears for the next one. Cheers!
Thanksgiving for sharing! Great video with lots of good techniques.
Thank you Kevin. I really appreciate this. Cheers, Scott
You are right .. there are not many videos with such detail. Thank you for the great advice!
Thank you for the compliment Laura! I'm glad you found it thorough. Cheers Scott
Great video! Thanks for sharing! I'm basically doing the same thing in a 110 year old house and I'm struggling a bit. I assumed that new construction techniques would work, and boy, was I wrong! Thanks for sharing your knowledge 🙂 I'm sure today will go faster, haha
Thank you Shannon. I'm glad the video helped and I hope it comes together perfectly. Cheers Scott
@@scottearlsmithFTC It was a wonky, twisted, sagging mess and that inexpensive OSB template saved me over $100 on yet another sheet of cabinet grade plywood I would've mucked up since I could visualize the actual shape of the stringers and adjust. Thanks again, from a new subscriber! Keep 'em coming 🙂
@@shannond2707 Thank you Shannon! I appreciate the encouragement and will keep them coming.
great job Scott and thanks for your honesty revealing mistakes, that’s precious 😊
Thank you Chris. We all make mistakes and the key is figuring out how to fix them. Thank you for commenting! Cheers, Scott
very true@@scottearlsmithFTC 😁
Yeah I it a suggestion. Keep up the good work 👍
Thank you so much! I've got many more coming thanks to encouraging people like you. Cheers. Scott
I found you specifically looking for Pro Finish Carpentry; nothing against DIY guys or gals however , I am a pro finish carpenter/ contractor also & I wanted to see how you; a pro done stairs ! I just never put myself out there when it came to stairs! Well I am going to start! I hv the skills and tools ! I know I can do it and now I hv so really good teaching videos from you to get myself outta any jam I come up against!
Thank you sir for taking the time!
I am so encouraged that the videos are helping you. Trust me, there are very few stair projects where I don't scratch my head and worry about how it's going to turn out. But that little bit of anxiety somehow makes things turn out better. Not a lot of carpenters doing stair and railing work, so I'm sure you'll excel and get lots of jobs. All the best.
You are providing great insight with your videos. Much appreciated
Thank you very much. I appreciate the encouraging comment.
Very informative... as always Scott.
Thanks Kevin! Appreciate the comment. Very encouraging!
Great video.I wonder when there is a gap on the stair template,if you glued some strips to it,to record the tight fit.Also would a festool track type saw ,help with the angled cuts on the final working piece.
Yes gluing strips onto the template would be ideal actually. On the saw, I've actually bought a cordless Festool HKC 55 saw with a small track for that kind of work. Good eye! Thanks for passing on your wisdom.
Great work!!
Thank you!
Working on an old house. Stairs are butting up against a block wall which will have drywall put on. The treads and risers cannot be removed. I have yet to see a video of notching around the treads and risers which I am strugging with. Any tips and tricks would be helpful.
Thanks for reaching out Thomas. You can send me some pictures via email and possibly I can help. Cheers, Scott (I have a .com website - just google me.)
I am watching your video again and in the few new homes I hv done I have a space between the wall and stairs left for my skirt board! I was wondering is there anyway to create that space that you know of after a DIY’er comes along and does this? Or do you hv to almost do a reverse stringer to make your skirt board?
If the space is less than 3/4” then yes you’ll have to make a reverse stringer/skirting. Send pics if you can.
If all the stair noses stick out by a different amt do we use the smallest one and then modify as needed ?
@@d.a.veneziano9651 If you mean the stair nosings on the original stairs, the best thing to do is cut them off flush and then add the new treads over top. Hope this helps, Scott
Instead of using a scribe tool. Why not just use a scrap piece of plywood at the highest rise and place it in each tread and mark. It is fast and efficient.
Yes. Great idea!
what is the width of the board for the new stringer ??
Measure the width of the exposed stringer and add an inch. Usually it will be around 9-10-inches. Hope that helps. Thanks for reaching out.
Great video Scott! Do you have any experience or videos where you install handrail and balustrades for a single open ended stair case finished with tile?
Thank you for the compliment. I don't a video on that process yet, but I have done them. I normally encourage customers with open stairs to install a bottom rail instead of drilling or mortising into the stair tread. But if folks want that look, I have drilled holes into the ceramic tile with a diamond bit and then used a baluster-shoe to hide the round hole. Not a dream job. But it can work and look great.