always ask for the replaced parts, or at least to see them it's the law they have to give them to you to prove they did the work most people don't take them but always verify they exist and aren't still on the vehicle i've been charged more than once for stuff people quite literally simply didn't do caveat emptor gang represent
The wltp speed is not stupid it's the speed limit in many European City centers. You aren't smart enough to consider that most of Europe's city structure is very different than that of the US. Maybe you want to actually study something before you start talking, but then again, I know the channel I'm at.... We don't have to drive so many miles you do. As for room temp, well again not that many heavy winter days either, we don't have your weather. Wltp is designed for our market, not yours, is a reasonable standard for easy comparison between cars.
The irreverent yet precise way you edit your videos tickles my soul in a way very few other channels do. It's one of the reasons I love your videos despite not being a car guy.
Same! I live in a city without a car, but I continue to enjoy watching because I have a LOT of experience with EVs from when I did, and I enjoy following the topic!
It's captivating for me as well. One of the greatest parts of this is the genuine sincerity and excitement Robert has for sharing his hobby/passion paired with unrelenting honestly and humbleness. It's an absolute joy seeing a new video pop up and has become my "Drop everything now and watch this" sort of event!
If you haven't checked it out, check out technology connections as well.. they're basically brothers (they've done a collaboration before as well), and their styles, enthusiasm and sense of humor are very similar. I recommend the one about his red fridge, it's fantastic.
"Shut up, bird" and "10 out of 10, would unlock again" are just 2 of the many reasons I am really thankful this man chooses to inform and entertain us on UA-cam.
Hello! I am a Volvo/Polestar mechanic from sweden and those faults are very common with the cars. The clicking from the rear is probably the ERAD (rear electric motor). There is a needle bearing inside the casing of the ERAD that the driveshaft sits on that wear down both the bearing and the driveshaft. We usually replace both the ERAD and driveshafts on warranty when the customer comes in with those sounds. For the front it might be the top bushings in the strut assembly. Volvo doesnt have a fix for that issue yet but we have had to disassemble the front struts and grind down the top of the springs but they have stopped with that fix now... Anyway love your videos!
We have also had cars that had been crashed or damaged in the front where we replaced almost everything in the front suspension and the front subframe. Does your car pull even a little to one side when accelerating or decelerating? The struts can also bend even so little that the eye cant see, and still will make a really bad sound/ pull to one side.
So what you're telling me is that Volvo STILL hasn't figured out upper strut mounts? Ok... I'm kidding. Mostly. I've had a couple 850s, an S70, a first gen V70XC, a second gen V70XC, and an S60, all of them eat upper strut mounts. My wife's XC60 seems to be much better, though... Fortunately, I'm a mechanic myself, and can change strut mounts on a P80 or P2 in minutes now
@@puckcat22679In December I was forced to retire my 1990 Volvo 240DL wagon. 34 of our winters, not to mention the 625,000 km on the clock had taken a serious toll. The front struts were replaced about May of 2011. Monroe SensaTrak strut inserts were ordered and installed. There is still no noise from the bearings. Seems like Monroe did finally resolve those rather expensive cars up the hill from us.
@@michaeltutty1540 oh no... I'm specifically talking about FWD Volvos here. The spring seats fail on them, at least the P80 and P2 chassis cars (mid 90s-mid 00s.) Monroe actually makes some of the worst spring seats for those. The usual fix involves using XC90 spring seats which are far more durable. I've had a few RWD Volvos as well, and aside from needing bearing plates after 100-150,000 miles, those aren't that bad.
17:30 That's amazing. It's like how car fuel gauges straight up lie to you because customers prefer a gauge that stays full for longer vs an accurate one.
Hey Robert! Polestar 2 owner here (somewhat convinced by your videos). The rear axle clicking noises are a common issue and are known as the "wheel of fortune" sound in the forums. I showed these posts to Polestar Columbus where I take my car as well, and Steve reached out to Polestar corporate. Apparently it's so widespread there is a TSB in the works. If you had it documented before the warranty ended you can probably get both rear axles replaced for free. Mine is in the shop now for the replacement.
@@ficklefingeroffate no. There were a batch of early cars (I believe 2022 models) that came with a manufacturing defect on the axles from the factory. They are being replaced at no charge as it is officially recognized. Not a ton of people have or have had the issue. Also for the record I launch my car constantly and beat the ever living crap out of it. I'm surprised I actually haven't broken them.
I live in The Netherlands and have been driving for about 8 years. Just the other day I came across my first pothole. It was small and nothing got damaged, but it was there. The roads are pretty damn smooth here, generally speaking. So, ehm, please don't do potholey-things?
@@thany3 I also live in NL and you're not kidding, it's the greatest roads I've ever seen. There are more potholes in 1 mile of the best Midwestern road than all of the Dutch roads combine
About Factor: meals are decent, if a bit too salty for my taste. Customer Service is terrible. Due to a fault in their system, my order came in twice. They made me pay for two orders.
Adaptive cruise control with EyeSight in my Crosstrek was an absolute LIFE CHANGER given I was doing cross country driving a lot at the time. In a manual (Corolla). It's a little too responsive in true stop and go traffic, but everything beyond that, the sense of "I don't care what the speed is!" is so accurate
An i3 ( 4.1 or more miles/KWh, btw ) will try to trick you to do it via the GPS. Because obviously driving the frontage roads is more efficient. Speed: Our real-world average speed is under 30 Mph, according to the car. Tracks with my experience: lots of city driving and in an urban area, you are as fast as any car on a bicycle.
It's the little details like having "tim" as the x-axis on the graph or saying "77 kilomiles." Or may favorite part is saying "changing direction" and the footage is of you driving in reverse.
thank you for pointing out why my E-transits range estimates seem close to real world and half way believable. I hadn't realized everyone else was fluffing
Not everyone else ... I have a Chevrolet Bolt, and by default, the "guess-o-meter" takes into account your driving patterns and the temperature. I have found it to be pretty accurate as long as you drive the way you usually drive. (If you do something that surprises it, of course you can do either quite a bit better or quite a bit worse, because by definition, it can't be expecting what you did to surprise it.)
i have very little desire to own an EV but everyone around me knowing that i am a car guy is constantly telling me about EVs or asking me about EVs so i really appreciate this channel and its honest assessments
Just so you know, ticking/clicking from rear CV shafts is due to a design problem. (They can't handle "enthusiastic driving".) Got both mine replaced under warranty half a year ago. Takes around 1.5 hours and noise is completely gone. They replaced them with upgraded versions apparantly. Important to notify Polestar/service about this as soon as you notice it and get it covered under warranty.
Loved your video! I grabbed a 2024.5 P2 2-year lease. More than I want to pay per month, but in 2 years the market will be completely different - might get 2 smaller cheaper EVs for the same money…
"Don't buy a new car" has been solid advice since before I was born. We bought a 2019 Nissan LEAF with 48,000 km in December and it cost us half what a 2023 would have. We had an adventure and eventually a $300 towing bill to get it back from Regina to Saskatoon, but that's less than 2% of the amount we saved by going used. What did we miss out on? The 360-degree camera, and our battery has 2 kWh *more* than the new model although it's probably a little more degraded. That's about it. Oh, and it was originally sold in Quebec so the owner's manual was in French, so we had to find an English version online which took ... seconds.
What else did the 'adventure' involve beyond the $300? Renting a car? Using taxis/Uber/etc? If my car breaks down, it costs me money beyond towing. It costs me having to rent another car. Or if on vacation it costs me enjoyment. Neither of which are free or make me happy. I think you are downplaying the inconvenience here a bit by only considering the amount you saved and the towing cost and none of the other issues.....like how did it affect you life? How much did it cost to fix? Pretty HUGE considerations given the tone of your comment. (How great was your deal all things considered with lost time, tow, repair, etc?)
@@ian3580I'm pretty surprised that a car with such low mileage can break down that badly. But good considerations of buying new vs used. If somebody buys certified pre-owned, they can get a deal on a low mileage used car that may have the same or better warranty and longer roadside assistance
@@ian3580 Our car didn't break down. We underestimated our range and pulled into a parking lot when the range display said 30 km and the map said 57 km to the charge point. No repair bill, nothing wrong with the car, it just wouldn't have made it on what we had left. The tow truck put us on the flatbed and dropped us off at the charge point, told us he did this several times a month, and that we were wise to stop when we did instead of draining the whole battery. We charged up to 90%, drove more slowly from Davidson, and made it home with 10% charge. Plugged it in to the side of the house and everything's been great since. A massive improvement over our old 2003 Civic. Our power bill is up by $60 a month and I have no idea what the price of gas is any more. It was a minor misadventure because we didn't know the car yet, and it was also -15 Celsius that day, which hit the range somewhat. We got home at 9 PM instead of 6. How was the deal? Going used saved us over $20,000, even after the tow truck. So absolutely worth it. The only maintenance we've had to do is changing to winter tires, and we'll be changing back to the all-seasons soon. Our first scheduled checkup/inspection/whatever is in June.
Volvo/PoleStar adaptive cruise is funky across all models. I had a 24 S60 B5 Black Edition on loan while my wagon got fixed and the adaptive cruise tried to suck me up exit ramps more times than not.
Oh, and there are two big reasons why ALL EV’s rapidly depreciate….especially one’s like yours that has 77k miles on the ODO - (1) At best, traction batteries in all EV’s are only warrantied for 100K miles. At the rate you drive, in one more year your battery will be out of warranty, and you COULD be looking at an expensive replacement. Small probability, but the chances are still there for someone buying a used EV. But what the magazines don’t tell you is that even after 200k miles, few batteries don’t stop working, altogether. They just have 20-30% reduced range. For many, that will still work fine with their driving habits; and (2) EV tech changes so rapidly in EV’s, that within 2-3 years, the tech in the newest models can be a game changer for some. That’s not the case with ICE cars….who’s tech slowly changes over decades, not years.
@@psychoboyaw I mean, that's how it's always been. But like landlords, auto dealers are really taking advantage of the post-lockdown culture to absolutely drive prices as high as they can possibly go, and probably beyond.
I've noticed that as well while shopping for used cars. A case in point I recall is I was looking at a '15 Volt that I managed to grab the VIN and place it in KBB's used car price and got a suggested sell price of [X]. Another car site on YT recommended that a used car price when buying is X+$2,500. The car in question was sitting on a small used car lot for X+$5,000 and the dealer was refusing to budge. Just a few days ago, he called me and said he was willing to drop the price by $500. I think I'll wait a bit longer, LOL.
Kbb is the average used sales price regionally adjusted. Dealerships add additional markups to cover their higher costs and to stand behind warranty when offered. A used car lot will be cheaper and private sales cheaper still. And the kbb average still represents the whole market with decent accuracy.
When you said 200 miles real world range, the first thought through my head was "finally, the 200 mile for under 20k car I've been calling for since 2015." Then you continued your thought....
Leased a new Volvo S60 about 10 years ago and pronounced it to be a giant piece of junk I couldn't wait to be rid of. I liked the styling, but the tech was half-baked, the dealer never could get the drivers seat to feel fully fastened, and there were random squeaks and clunks that just didn't inspire confidence. That experience will keep me away from future Volvo/Polestar/Zhejiang Geely vehicles. Bought a used Porsche for 1/3 the cost which has been way more fun and relatively cheap to own, augmented by a Lexus hybrid crossover which has been bulletproof.
I have to say, as Illinoisans ourselves, I’m from Chicago, my husband is from downstate Champaign/Urbana area so I’m loving your “Normal, IL” shirt. As well, we have almost the same vehicle and we find your videos fun, informative, engaging and entertaining too! Keep up the great work and we agree; 100% would buy another one!
Robert, you have sparked my interest in EVs ever since you and Alec did the EV road trip. I even rented one for a month and a half through Lyft and it was exactly the experience I was expecting - charging can be hit and miss when it's a non Tesla - but it was a lot of fun to learn about the EV life. Thank you for posting completely honest reviews and ownership updates in your humorous yet informative manner.
Likewise. I went ahead and splurged on an i4 m50 because of these guys making the trip in a non Tesla vs a Tesla. And they even ended up where I live, Orlando. Lol
The clicking under regen braking is apparently a contactor/relay clicking according to my Volvo dealer (I'm in the UK, hence taking it to Volvo). I'm told that this is normal behaviour and not necessarily indicative of a fault. Also, yeah, feel you on the depreciation. My 2022 SRSM in Midnight with pilot and plus packs is worth a shade under half of what I paid new...
On mine, I hear two clicks. There are clicks coming from the dash that are synchronized to the brake lights coming on and off, and I think that's because I have the tow hitch, because everyone I've asked who hears that one also has the tow hitch. I also get clicks out of the rear axle on deceleration and tight turns. I'm a few thousand miles under the end of warranty, so I'm probably going to call and ask about that shortly.
even before EVs the general wisdom imparted to me by my elders was "never buy a new car, buy the lease return" it seems thats true for EVs just as well. the depreciation any cars even ICE cars have in their first few years is crazy to me. currently leasing my first EV (german so Opel Mokka e, buick in the US?) and it was a learning experience. i learned that i really really love the instant torque and feel of driving an EV but also that i really really want battery preconditioning which my skew doesnt have
The conundrum with that 'sage advice' is that if EVERONE did that, they would be no cars sold. Someone has to buy a car new, to have used cars. When OPs elders can sort this problem thru-please post here.
@@harriettanthony7352 He didn't even suggest buying a new car......but the point is similar. I thought it funny that the "wisdom imparted to me by my elders was 'never buy a new car, buy the lease return" was the beginning of the comment, but then he didn't follow it and instead leases......and then doesn't give feedback that has anything to do with the experience of buying a lease return or leasing a vehicle.. Just a strong of random info..
@@harriettanthony7352 that is what a lot of people are already doing, dealerships here are massively pushing for leasing. leasing cars are brand new cars "sold" by the manufacturer theres just a bank thats buying it and then renting it out to you. it makes no difference to the manufacturer. A 3 year lease return is the same for the used market as a car that was bought and driven for 3 years and then listed on the used market.
@@ZariTenjin I'm also from Germany and I was looking for used (especially lease return) EVs. When I went to Hyundai and asked about the Ioniq5 they almost fell over laughing. The salesman told me that 100% of the cars that get returned are going straight to scandinavian countries, especially Denmark. There, they can sell them for almost sticker price when new as the luxury tax (they have special taxes for cars above a certain size and engine power) doesn't apply or isn't nearly as high for used cars compared to new ones. Then I was looking into smaller ones (Peugeot 208-e) just to get around town but in the end that didn't make any sense financially as I still would need to have a gas car to visit my family (about 200mi away). As a car guy, buying a Tesla is absolutely out of the question. I will never buy a brand that won't sell me spare parts. So for now, I just tabled the decision. I want to have a car with around 250mi of range, about the size of a Golf, no SUV, from a somewhat good car manufacturer. I thought about the MG4 as well, but I don't really like how it looks and the MG cars don't seem to be all there yet. I heard of problems where the cars accelerated by itself and someone even dying because of that.
@@ian3580 i wasnt in the market for buying a car, im leasing so i can try out EVs before commiting to a buy. that doesnt invalidate the advice given to me. i will follow it when i buy a car.
This guy is a legend.. He tells warts and all and laughs it all off... And he drives the car rather than wash it... A must watch for all EV owners.. I'm a Polestar 2 owner and enjoyed his down to earth honest reviews with a large helping of humour. Brilliant.
Hold up there's a bearing it the strut tower ?? For what ? Nothing moves around only up and down, or do you mean at the top of the shock where it pivots ?
@@dietznutz1i think he meant bushing or rubber dampener. There is no such thing as a shock bearing. They are designed for vertical motion and horizontal forces, not rotation like a bearing.
Part of selling is that someone has to want to buy it. The people buying this type of car are more inclined to buy a new one (for various reasons), so the resale is much lower.
And if you bought in 2022 at the pandemic car price peak, the cost of a new and improved 2024 is going to be lower than what you paid, making the depreciation on an old one even worse.
Yes, it was like that in UK years ago with cars like the Jaguar V12. If you could afford to run one you could afford to buy a new one, so the used ones were very cheap.
In the U.K. people lease new ones to save tax. I just checked and leases are about £500 a month. However, a higher rate tax payer would only see £260 come off the bottom line of their payslip.
In part, thanks to your earlier videos about your Polestar 2, I went ahead and got a 2024 LRSM Polestar. I'm just loving it. For my road trips btwn Florida and Western New York it's been a real treat. The bigger battery, and improved charging, plus the general comfort of the car and it's enjoyable handling just make road trips fun.
I have a 2024 RWD Polestar 2 and absolutely love it. I leased it so zero worries and I'll probably lease another Polestar after I turn it in. Just get one. You'll be happy you did.
@@nowayjose596 due to inherently how the batteries work. They have way better performance and lifespan than expected in reality. The BMS metrics are very realistic.
I saw a 2003 Honda Insight in a parking lot, ended up talking to the owner. He's got 359K miles on it, and the battery pack is starting to fade. The vehicle as a whole was in great condition, both interior and exterior. I don't see many of these in northeast Georgia. I also pointed him at your channel, so maybe you'll have one more subscription :)
The fact that he got 359k miles on it before the battery tanked, especially here in GA is nothing short of a miracle. You don't see many of those because most of them are paper weights 200k miles before that.
Dream on. No way is that car on its original battery. And if it is installed, it is not functional. Those are Ni-MH batteries originally and lasted about 10 years. After that, the car still functions, but very weak on acceleration. If the battery is functioning, it has been replaced. And being we are now in 2024, it's probably ready for its 3rd battery.
@@OmegaGamingNetwork no way, those 1st gen insights are way overbuilt and commonly go 200k+. You can now get lithium batteries to replace the original NiCd/NiMh cells too and get even better fuel economy than the already really good 65+mpg.
@@Fhwgads11 Overbuilt and popular..yet somehow selling for less than 10k and many for less than 5...yep, popular. The market doesn't reflect your claims.
My dear old father who actually had an Austin dealership back in the day [yes I'm that old] told me never to buy a new car as they were overpriced, get one about three years old, all the kinks will have been ironed out and you can get a super posho deluxe model without the overcharging.
The same advice can be given about women. The older ones have the kinks ironed out, and you can get the super posho deluxe model... just beware of body damage, and that sometimes the computer control modules have faults.
Great update video! My Polestar 2 (LRSM +pilot lite) was a decision I made following lots of research; including your Polestar videos (actually got me into your channel - love your honest style BTW Robert). As mine is a company car, I don't care about the depreciation and has been a great decision. Now at around 16 months old (26,400 miles / ~42,400 km) I have had my first major problem, the cabin heater has stopped working and I suspect the heater module has burnt out (something to do with that build quality you mentioned). Currently having to wait over a month for a service slot at a Volvo garage to fix it. As it's a cold April here in the UK, driving to work is not so much fun at the moment. Otherwise my only 'negative' things have been the ease the FWD looses traction under reasonable acceleration if it is at all damp (see UK weather) an intermediate passenger seat rattle and a period of what sounded like broken glass in a speaker coming from the A-pillar. Love my Polestar 2 though.
What's your suggestion about buying a Polestar for anywhere between 25k-35k. I know nothing about cars but like the look of it. Want to buy one where the bulk of the depreciation has already happened and sell in around 2-3 years for as close to what I bought it for!
just happened across this video , really informative but with a great sense of humour thrown in. Excellent editing , goodness knows how long it took to make and complete. l look forward to watching more .
In my Bolt it has a Max - Medium - Min range estimate. It's one of the best and most overlooked software features of this car in my opinion. It has an indicator to show how your driving habits relate to the estimate and where you will end up in the estimate if you continue driving at the same pace. Even other chevy evs I've seen reviews of seem to be missing this feature. My Leaf on the other hand always showed an incredibly optimistic range estimate and it was very untrustworthy.
The volts did it too. my 2012 one i absolutely refuse to get rid of will tell me numbers that actually sound like numbers. my partners model 3 however... yea its really optimistic like stupidly optimistic which has been a real surprise when you look at the estimate of 175 miles and go ok theres a super charger 140 miles from me. i should be able to easily make it. only to hit low power mode after 110 miles and now your scrambling to find anything nearby. I believe chevrolet called that feature the trend line. its pretty nice as i can often tell just based off that line if im doing better or worse than my average. i also have the optimistic number which only applies if im doing 25 MPH downhill with tornado force winds pushing me along to the min number which i would say is the exact opposite. it tends to very much underestimate so even when it says like 90 miles i know its more like 115 with the trend number being pretty much the right one. its very goldilocks but i kinda love it since it aint lying like a few other hybrids and EVs ive driven where the numbers might as well be useless and your left spinning the wheel of fish to figure out how far it will actually go.
@@Justacogg I regularly cross the country, I’ve not had much of an issue. When you’re roadtripping, you have to stop and take a rest at regular intervals no matter what, and when we do we charge the car
@@Justacogg I have done few 1500km or 1000km trips. For me just fine. I also charge quite often and not that much (like 10% - 60%), buy something to drink, some snacks maybe, visit toilet and go.
I bought a new P2 PPP a month ago, based on your previous review (and other reviews. And getting a great deal. And not listening very carefully to what you said). So far, I absolutely love it and very happy you still like it after so long.
Man is this car absolutely jaw-droppingly gorgeous. One of the best looking cars ever made in my opinion, especially in todays sea of overdesigned vehicles. Really sleek, thoughtful, timeless aesthetics, which is great because it'll still look good in 20 years when people are done with their payments.
That is one reason why I leased my Polestar 2. I have just turned it in at the end of my lease after 39 momths and 32700 miles. Bottom line is I loved the Polestar 2. It has every feature I need and with software updates the range is more than when I started my lease. I did not notice any significant battery degradation. I also did not have the tire wear problems but I did have winter tires as well as my summer tires.
Ive tried the auto steer thing on a Volvo V90, and found it terrifying, as same as in the Polestar it tried to drift down every exit and it hugged the edge of the lane, and seemed to move closer to the edge when passing or being passed like it was actively trying to collide, so it was exhausting keeping it from killing us all the time, and less tiring and stressful to just steer manually
I used to own a Volvo V90 for about a year and must say that I never had issues with it steering on to the exit ramps, however I also would agree, that it hugged the left side of the lane. Kinda ruined the experience, since I didn't like it being so close to the other lane of cars going by.
@@Jcewazhere Around half a million kilometers. Intech engines are known to pass a million kilometers with ease, had an ex-taxi come in for a service at 1.7 million, no major work done apart from one automatic gearbox.
My family bought a polestar 2 at a similar time as you with similar constraints: limited stock, horrifying delivery, and rising gas prices. The little glitches and issues coupled with its decline in value have made him very angry about it. Watching your video provided a cathartic experience for him. We may be able to cancel the therapy we had scheduled. Thanks!!!
I have never understood why people say that buying a new vehicle is a bad idea because of the depreciation. Unless you are going to be selling the vehicle shortly after purchasing it, there isn't a reason I can think of why you should be concerned about the value of the vehicle. I purchased a 2021 Toyota Tacoma brand new. I have no concern about what the truck is worth right now. I have no intention of getting rid of it. I intend to use it until it completely falls apart and is not usable anymore. What is the reason any of you are concerned about the value of a vehicle if you are not going to be selling it?
Most new vehicles aren't Tacomas that you can keep forever because they will last until the heat death of the universe. Most new vehicles are turds like the Chevy Cruz, Traverse, and Equinox that turn into endless moneypits as they age. Resale value suddenly becomes a big factor.
Well, if you know it has high depreciation you could save a fortune by buying a used one. So it's useful information when considering whether to buy new or used. Once you own it though - yes, doesn't matter if you're not going to sell, but most people do sell at some point.
Depreciation has a reliability component included. Very High depreciation vehicles are usually problematic in one way or another. It can be used as a basic gauge.
If your car depreciates a lot in a few weeks or months.....then you should have bought used....and there are a lot of very new vehicles that are on the market. Sure, you're not worried about resale, but if you look at where you are 6 months into ownership (~6k miles) you owe more on your car than you could but the same for. Same with a year-old and 12k. That's what people mean. 'New' carries a HUGE premium....and especially if you don't pay cash, you pay interest on that premium.
Yeah, the last time I needed a car, all the cars I wanted were like, $40K or more. So I looked around and bought used, and let some else pay for the first three years of depreciation. I've owned that car for 10 years now, trouble free. (Knock on wood...)
@@UnacceptableViews Also because Musk lowered the price of the model 3 and Hertz dumped their fleet of Polestars at discount prices ... here in EU prices are still kind of holding up a bit for 2nd hand cars.
Buying a new car isn't about making the most sensible decision, otherwise everyone would just buy a Toyota Corolla, and they'd be driving around constantly about to fall asleep because of how boring it is. It's about what makes you happy, and if you enjoy driving your car, which you clearly do, then you've made the right choice.
The clicking from the rear is indicative of an issue with the rear drive axle. Had mine replaced under warranty - it’s a common thing. Funny enough, it took about 4 trips to Polestar and me recording the sound to get them to fix it. The tech advised that I get audio recordings of issues to help ensure they don’t come back and say they “can’t hear it”.
Funny how mechanics who spend all day using effin loud impact tools can't hear squeaks and rattles. My dad is a retired auto restoration shop owner and watches TV so loud I can hear it from the driveway and it makes my ears ring after an hour at 3/4 of his usual volume, which is ungodly loud.
interesting and honest rundown. 🤣 i like my 23 bolt euv's estimates by actual consumption for the main number. being canadian, it easily makes 200 miles in good weather without heat needs. i like the hands free of gm's supercruise in mine. and adaptive cruise is a nice feature to have. just getting it to release from the vehicle in front until they leave your lane can be annoying and needs a little footwork override sometimes. 😁 and like you we didn't worry about the huge original drop in value. it suits us, even with the bolts slow fast charge. (have yet to charge away from home). super cheap energy costs to get around is why we bought it. $0.15/kwh makes it pretty cheap to drive.
I appreciate the fact that overall you're mostly brand agnostic. That you find faults in vehicles that you love while not letting that ruin things for you; and that you love a number of things in absolutely, deeply-flawed vehicles.
I haven't seen your videos in several years and had this video stumble upon my homepage. You have become way comfortable in front the camera and are letting your humour shine from the last time I've seen you. Subbed
The airbag light is wire under the seat. Next time it comes one try to move your seat back and forth. Worked on my dacia, more permanent solution is to fix the connection, very very common issue with great many cars.
7 місяців тому+14
When sending car to the dealer I usually make a video of the problematic noise and even do some EQ on it (usually hi-pass and maybe compression). Once it helped, the other time it did not. I had a screaming interior heating fan (sounded like a circular saw in both the frequency and loudness) and dealer still said he doesn't hear anything... Regarding the tires: I heard (from F9 youtube motorbike channel) that OEM tires might have a bit less thread on them so they indeed would wear out sooner.
7 місяців тому+3
@@Channel-gz9hm In my experience the tech said, while watching the video, that he doesn't hear anything ;-)
In the same manner as the lane assist vs lane departure warning, I rented an MG Marvell, who's cruise control drifted about +- 5 km/h (3 mph) above or below the set limit for some reason. As it drifts closer to +5 km/h, it sternly shouts at you that you are speeding. ...yeah.🤦♂
I bought a new 2023 M3LR, and have been very happy with it. Not quite as bad on the value as your car, but I think that is a bit temporary with Teslas just because the batteries are so much cheaper. The charge stations are cheaper also. I'm looking to buy a EV for my GF, and will definitely be going used, before people come to their senses!
I had the facelift EU version since November, just single motor, extended range and so far I love it. It's faster than most of the cars while thanks to single motor is relatively efficient. The depreciation will be a problem for EVs since every year there is something new with more range, more power, more efficiency or other "ground breaking" advancements. But if I knew some battery specialist to confirm the battery degradation I would totally buy a used one for a good price.
Looking at a slightly used electric car and this review was EXCELLENT! It provides a lot of info I've been looking for. Thanks. (My other options are Mach-E, EV6 or IONIQ5, all a bit more practical, but look less cool)
Depreciation is only an issue if you're one of those folks who like a new car every few years. That strategy has always been the most effective way to burn money, especially if you like expensive metal. The rich and their money are easily separated by motoring trinkets they don't need. For the rest of us, if you really must buy a new car, buy one you actually like and want to drive until it's no longer viable to own. That way it doesn't matter what the depreciation is. Personally, I buy cars that are high mileage but reliable or cheap and easy to fix. I've spent less than the price of a new Polestar in the past 30 years of motoring.
My Tesla 2018 Model 3 Performance has been solid and the few minor service/maintenance items I’ve had Tesla perform were performed quickly and properly. They give me a loaner car, Uber credits, or their mobile service team does the work at my house. And it’s still a blast to drive. That is, when I want to drive. Most of the 300 miles of driving I’ve done the past two days has been done by the car. Including city streets, not just freeway. It gets better with every software update. So, while the depreciation is an issue, my car now does things that it didn’t do when it was new which arguably increases its utility and value. And it charges at 250KW at the plentiful Tesla Superchargers.
I also have the grumble, clicking sound from the right-rear during regen braking below around 20 miles per hour. When I purchased the car (with about 18,000 miles on it), I had my local Polestar service center do an inspection. They indicated there were no signs of unexpected wear or a separated CV boot on that corner.
Honestly yeah, my mom's 21 Subaru is so good I drove 251 miles without doing a single thing, my Honda isn't as good but if you keep tension on the steering wheel when the windshield is clean it holds decently
@@orppranator5230 that's true! I am fairly certain all cars you can disable it, convoluted in some cases, usually by holding the cruise button or the follow distance setting
@@orppranator5230 NO. The point is that Adaptive Cruise is far, far superior than "normal" cruise. I wouldn't even call old school cruise a control of the operating of the car. It sets a speed that gets turned off every time you brake because there's a semi coming up. Then old school cruise has to be set again, requiring more driver attention to the gauges and not the road. Old school cruise control is a distraction. Adaptive cruise doesn't need that constant attention to the speed, making it easier to pay attention to everything else happening on the road. Adaptive cruise should be mandatory, and not be able to turn off, because it's much safer management of speed. The same way air bags and seat belts are safer and can't be turned off.
I bought one of the first edition performance pack models (with all the options). I loved it. I kept it for 21 months and did about 15.5k miles in it (it was Covid time so it limited my mileage). At the time I sold it we had all the inventory issues globally and hence I got close to what I paid for it new(!) When I next need a car I will be looking for a used Polestar 2 performance…they are so much fun. One hint: don’t change the tyre type - they were designed explicitly for the P2 performance (in particular they have stiffened sidewalls and noise damping),
Again, it's all about the tax credits. A Model Y gets $7500 new EV credit and the second buyer gets to claim $4000 used EV credit. That means a new Polestar buyer starts off $11,500 in the hole before depreciation even begins.
The tax credit situation keeps changing and I'm not familiar with the details at all anymore, so I just didn't even mention it. I think both car qualify for the used tax credit, so that's a pretty level playing field.
@@agingwheels Well, as the Polestar is from China, I doubt that. The IRA is a "protectionism" act, America is scared shitless (as it should) about the steamroller called Chinese EV manufacturing.
New cars always ship with very soft compound tires for maximum traction and ride comfort. That's why they wear out so fast. You'll notice the wear number will be around 200ish instead of 400ish.
I feel like these are both rumours that are not true. Apart from OE specific tyres (like BMW star marked or Porsche N0 marked or Hyundai HN marked or whatever) there's no reason for OEM supplied tyres to any different than standard production tyres. Fitting less tread depth would give the OE tyre supplier a bad reputation with the new car buyer, while treadwear ratings between 220 and 340 are normal for summer performance tyres as fitted as standard to the Polestar, Tesla, BMW and other prestige sedans (as well as on sportscars, of course). [The overall diameter of a tyre size (e.g., 255*0.40*2+18*25.4=661.2mm for a 255/40 R18) is for when it's new, so if they made a version with less tread depth just for supplying OE, they would need different moulds which would surely add more cost far beyond whatever saving of putting less tread rubber on the OE-supplied tyre?!]
@@TassieLorenzo Tire shaving is making a come back. Since a lot of vehicles are AWD or some variation of e-AWD etc. shaving tires to make them perfectly round or to balance treadwear on a replacement tire is a growing thing. That would reduce tread depth some. And in the name of the customer having the best initial ownership experience having more true tires and the best grip and ride is absolutely worth it. It's not about saving money on the tires themselves as a softer compound tire isn't cheaper.
here where i live in brazil, older luxury cars depreciate like rocks, and old cars in general tend to hit absurdly low values before going up, tbh for 18k its just better to just keep it forever, thats too much money lost just keep it as much as u can
One of the best videos you have done in a long time. Glad you are MOSTLY enjoying your purchase and I hope you hold on to it for a long time. Honestly seems like a reliable vehicle, just sadly outclassed by the competition. That depreciation is INSANE though. I assume Teslas are the only EVs that don't get hit on that so bad, but even then I assume it's high.
Subscribed off this video alone. Through a twist of fate I ended up in a Polestar2 performance for about a month a while ago and I couldn’t wait for you to talk about the “lane keeping.”😂 This video has me considering buying the 2024 rwd version, but it also has me NOT considering a new car. Either way, I’d consider your car buying advice well did.
He has to do multiple takes and scenes: there'd be no food left to show, its messy, its cold, he 'd have to brush his teeth on shooting location, he doesn't want to spoil his appetite for lunch, as he wants to eat it whole to enjoy his lunch, or maybe he ate lunch, he wants plate always to look full for camera. maybe plate is expired over several days shooting.
I've heard it's quite a common experience for the first set of EV tyres to last a lot less than subsequent sets. As the owner spends the first 10,000 miles booting it everywhere before the novelty begins to wear off... along with the rubber.
....which begs the question, why do EV manufacturers think we're all fixated on winning the traffic light grand prix? It would be very easy to design a car which takes off more gently and thus gives extended tyre life, and probably much improved range as well. Throw away all the irritating and failure-prone gadgetry, and let's have an affordable EV, please!
At first I was on the "EVs are bad!" bandwagon, then I took a 6 hour trip in an Ioniq 6 and was genuinely impressed. As someone who likes to buy a cutdown flagship phone (Pixel 6A) or a used flagship phone off of eBay, used EVs fill the same hole in my heart. I have a long commute, but if I was able to charge at home it wouldn't even be a question. If my straight 6 diesel Mercedes ever gives up, my next car will likely be a used EV.
15:24 I don't know how it's for Volvo cars, but having "Auto Steer" on a VAG car, which can be enabled with software... requires a steering wheel swap. Normal steering wheels don't contain a capacitive touch sensor to detect the hands. If these are not present then the car keeps yelling to put the hands on the steer, unless you literally steer in some direction.
Did you hear about the guy who owned the million mile Volvo. It's now 3 million miles. When he first got the car he drove several thousand miles on a weekend. I think he just really enjoyed driving
That's how much I drive. I'm driving petrol skoda kamiq 2022 with additional LPG tank it can do 1500 km ( 1000miles) with 1 charge. but I didn't think it was possible with an electric car because you would have to charge it so many times.... But if I had a better and funnier car to drive I'll probably put even more miles per year 😢😂😂
Great info, no issues on mine other than the buggy system sometimes and tires, P2 22, 35k mil, got the same color with the plus pack, thought about getting a larger vehicle but the upside down is not not great at the moment, altho numbers are moving up as the market stabilizes…
19:44 "Buying weird crap that no-one wants..." Done that. In 2001 I bought a 1972 Hillman Avenger (Plymouth Cricket) for £10. It's a hoot. But I would love Polestar 2 one day. No money though. I don't do things on credit, if I can't afford it then I don't buy it.
They were worth roughly half of their MSRP when new when compared to a similar ICE. Tax rebates incentivize inflated prices when new and hurt resale value.
It doesn't matter how much corollas are worth, they suck the fun out of driving. No performance, mediocre handling, no steering feel, no braking feel, not quiet, and not even impressively efficient. At least honda paid a small amount of attention to driving dynamics in civics. Toyota doesn't seem to care about making driving anything more than a chore.
@@davidhunternyc1 Utility? Explain why the corolla hatchback is shorter than the corolla then. It has worst in class storage space, not very utilitarian. Compare with the old king of utility hatchbacks, the honda fit. Compare even with the toyota matrix and scion xb.
@@bdbyt6835 This reminds me of my days waiting tables. This macho Albanian waiter was strutting his stuff, trying to convince everyone that he had a Lamborghini. I didn't believe him and I started laughing hysterically but he kept trying to convince us. I called him out on his bullsh*t. He said, "Yo! Son! Seriously! I've got a Lamborghini dude! For real! It's an Acura TX baby... an ACURA T... X!"
How on earth do you put so many miles on a car in such a short period of time? I feel like i drive all the time and at most put like 18k miles on in a year.
Thanks for the review Robert! I recently got a new car as well, been driving the wheels off it, put 16,300 miles on it in about 6 months. It's a 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage. Luckily it's the cheapest new car, I owe nothing. Bought it out right. I can't see getting something as expensive as the Polestar though. The Mirage is fun, it's like a street legal go cart, but a bit safer, and nicer.
Use code AGINGWHEELS50 to get 50% OFF your first Factor box plus 20% off your next box at bit.ly/3GIHzuy!
You'll have to make me do that, mortal.
always ask for the replaced parts, or at least to see them
it's the law they have to give them to you to prove they did the work
most people don't take them
but always verify they exist and aren't still on the vehicle
i've been charged more than once for stuff people quite literally simply didn't do
caveat emptor gang represent
Dose factor ship to army bases
8:00...I do not recommend you try to find time to "cook yourself"... no matter how hungry you are..
The wltp speed is not stupid it's the speed limit in many European City centers. You aren't smart enough to consider that most of Europe's city structure is very different than that of the US. Maybe you want to actually study something before you start talking, but then again, I know the channel I'm at....
We don't have to drive so many miles you do.
As for room temp, well again not that many heavy winter days either, we don't have your weather. Wltp is designed for our market, not yours, is a reasonable standard for easy comparison between cars.
The irreverent yet precise way you edit your videos tickles my soul in a way very few other channels do. It's one of the reasons I love your videos despite not being a car guy.
Same! I live in a city without a car, but I continue to enjoy watching because I have a LOT of experience with EVs from when I did, and I enjoy following the topic!
It's captivating for me as well. One of the greatest parts of this is the genuine sincerity and excitement Robert has for sharing his hobby/passion paired with unrelenting honestly and humbleness. It's an absolute joy seeing a new video pop up and has become my "Drop everything now and watch this" sort of event!
This old Tony will suit you well.
Same
If you haven't checked it out, check out technology connections as well.. they're basically brothers (they've done a collaboration before as well), and their styles, enthusiasm and sense of humor are very similar. I recommend the one about his red fridge, it's fantastic.
"Shut up, bird" and "10 out of 10, would unlock again" are just 2 of the many reasons I am really thankful this man chooses to inform and entertain us on UA-cam.
dontcha love how he's burned his money on that polestar2?🤣🤣🤣🤣
I love the fiscal arsonist line
Feels like I'm watching an episode of Always Sunny
I’m subscribing from the shut up bird alone
Loved the video but did not get the multiple references to “10 out of 10 would unlock again” by the way!?
Hello! I am a Volvo/Polestar mechanic from sweden and those faults are very common with the cars. The clicking from the rear is probably the ERAD (rear electric motor). There is a needle bearing inside the casing of the ERAD that the driveshaft sits on that wear down both the bearing and the driveshaft. We usually replace both the ERAD and driveshafts on warranty when the customer comes in with those sounds.
For the front it might be the top bushings in the strut assembly. Volvo doesnt have a fix for that issue yet but we have had to disassemble the front struts and grind down the top of the springs but they have stopped with that fix now...
Anyway love your videos!
We have also had cars that had been crashed or damaged in the front where we replaced almost everything in the front suspension and the front subframe.
Does your car pull even a little to one side when accelerating or decelerating?
The struts can also bend even so little that the eye cant see, and still will make a really bad sound/ pull to one side.
So what you're telling me is that Volvo STILL hasn't figured out upper strut mounts? Ok... I'm kidding. Mostly. I've had a couple 850s, an S70, a first gen V70XC, a second gen V70XC, and an S60, all of them eat upper strut mounts. My wife's XC60 seems to be much better, though...
Fortunately, I'm a mechanic myself, and can change strut mounts on a P80 or P2 in minutes now
@@puckcat22679In December I was forced to retire my 1990 Volvo 240DL wagon. 34 of our winters, not to mention the 625,000 km on the clock had taken a serious toll. The front struts were replaced about May of 2011. Monroe SensaTrak strut inserts were ordered and installed. There is still no noise from the bearings. Seems like Monroe did finally resolve those rather expensive cars up the hill from us.
Great info! 👏👏👏
@@michaeltutty1540 oh no... I'm specifically talking about FWD Volvos here. The spring seats fail on them, at least the P80 and P2 chassis cars (mid 90s-mid 00s.) Monroe actually makes some of the worst spring seats for those. The usual fix involves using XC90 spring seats which are far more durable.
I've had a few RWD Volvos as well, and aside from needing bearing plates after 100-150,000 miles, those aren't that bad.
I'm a Volvo technician. This is basically an xc40 recharge. You need upper strut bearings. And a CV shaft. Your welcome
* you're
@@JustMe99999 *yur
@@whatusernameis5295u're*
and a mondeo is basically a fusion. thanks for the high tech info
Your'e*
17:30 That's amazing. It's like how car fuel gauges straight up lie to you because customers prefer a gauge that stays full for longer vs an accurate one.
Ohhhh that’s by design?
@@Beastw1ck And phone battery bars
🤦🏼
Hey Robert! Polestar 2 owner here (somewhat convinced by your videos). The rear axle clicking noises are a common issue and are known as the "wheel of fortune" sound in the forums. I showed these posts to Polestar Columbus where I take my car as well, and Steve reached out to Polestar corporate. Apparently it's so widespread there is a TSB in the works. If you had it documented before the warranty ended you can probably get both rear axles replaced for free. Mine is in the shop now for the replacement.
So what you're saying is it's common to need to replace the axles on Polestars? Nice.
@@ficklefingeroffate no. There were a batch of early cars (I believe 2022 models) that came with a manufacturing defect on the axles from the factory. They are being replaced at no charge as it is officially recognized. Not a ton of people have or have had the issue. Also for the record I launch my car constantly and beat the ever living crap out of it. I'm surprised I actually haven't broken them.
I had a clicking issue on mine that was solved by some simple lubrication at the service space.
@@ficklefingeroffate How on earth did you pull that out of what they said
@@JGWalrusthey’re dumb
"Please don't do breaky things" - I can hear the car going "Please don't do curb-hitty things!" 😸
Both of them: no
I heard the car line in a mocking voice
I live in The Netherlands and have been driving for about 8 years. Just the other day I came across my first pothole. It was small and nothing got damaged, but it was there. The roads are pretty damn smooth here, generally speaking. So, ehm, please don't do potholey-things?
@@thany3 I also live in NL and you're not kidding, it's the greatest roads I've ever seen. There are more potholes in 1 mile of the best Midwestern road than all of the Dutch roads combine
SMACK whoopsies🤣
About Factor: meals are decent, if a bit too salty for my taste. Customer Service is terrible. Due to a fault in their system, my order came in twice. They made me pay for two orders.
“please sir, can i *not* have any more?”
Wait, you can actually taste something?
You have to factor that into the price, ok ill go now..
"Please Sir can i have some less ?"
The last time I tried a bullshit ready meal like that it was disgustingly salty, literally inedible. Make homemade food people
Adaptive cruise control with EyeSight in my Crosstrek was an absolute LIFE CHANGER given I was doing cross country driving a lot at the time. In a manual (Corolla). It's a little too responsive in true stop and go traffic, but everything beyond that, the sense of "I don't care what the speed is!" is so accurate
"Changing direction completely" Love that the footage was in reverse.
Always love your editing!
"It tries to suck you down every off ramp."
Gives new meaning to the car's name...
She star on my pole till i feel electric
An i3 ( 4.1 or more miles/KWh, btw ) will try to trick you to do it via the GPS. Because obviously driving the frontage roads is more efficient. Speed: Our real-world average speed is under 30 Mph, according to the car. Tracks with my experience: lots of city driving and in an urban area, you are as fast as any car on a bicycle.
@@karlkoehler341 think that was a dirty joke.
@@karlkoehler341 Because bicycle riders don't stop for a red traffic light.
@@Okurka. For some reason bike riders have a death wish when it comes to traffic lights.
It's the little details like having "tim" as the x-axis on the graph or saying "77 kilomiles." Or may favorite part is saying "changing direction" and the footage is of you driving in reverse.
I love "kilomiles". Metric and imperial system combined, giving you the shittiest system for measuring distance :)
The 77 kilomiles was hystreical. I bet it was about 6 or 7 decafahrenheit where he was filming, looks nice and sunny out
60 miles per hour = 1.7 miles per hectosecond = 144 miles per deciday.
@@jakub.anderwald Like how machinists use mil/thou that's a thousandth of an inch?
@Okurka. Machinists will even say "tenths" which they fully mean 0.0001 of an inch, one ten-thousandth. Ah yes, tenths.
Plot twist: the nashville pothole just broke the airbag LED in the dashboard.
"Fry not sure meme face"
Not sure if check engine light is off because it fixed itself or because the check engine light also broke.
Welp, good thing Rob actually has diagnostic software so he doesn't have to rely on vague indicator lights.
thank you for pointing out why my E-transits range estimates seem close to real world and half way believable. I hadn't realized everyone else was fluffing
Not everyone else ... I have a Chevrolet Bolt, and by default, the "guess-o-meter" takes into account your driving patterns and the temperature. I have found it to be pretty accurate as long as you drive the way you usually drive. (If you do something that surprises it, of course you can do either quite a bit better or quite a bit worse, because by definition, it can't be expecting what you did to surprise it.)
I’m guessing as it’s a commercial vehicle for work they can’t afford to lie about range
i have very little desire to own an EV
but everyone around me
knowing that i am a car guy
is constantly telling me about EVs
or asking me about EVs
so i really appreciate this channel and its honest assessments
It's good to understand at least some about all vehicles. Never been the biggest fan of diesel, but I know enough.
I'm a car guy as well but I'd love a Hyundai Ioniq 5 N, that thing looks fun as hell.
is that a poem?
Just so you know, ticking/clicking from rear CV shafts is due to a design problem. (They can't handle "enthusiastic driving".)
Got both mine replaced under warranty half a year ago. Takes around 1.5 hours and noise is completely gone. They replaced them with upgraded versions apparantly.
Important to notify Polestar/service about this as soon as you notice it and get it covered under warranty.
16:20 - *RangeEstimates™.* You have a choice of:
1. Lie to me
2. Lie-to-me
3. _Lietome_
and
4. *LIE TO ME*
You know I like it _when you lie-lie-lie_
Some UA-cam comments are acidic, and some are lye.
You forgot Lie To Me*
*but with informed lies
Loved your video! I grabbed a 2024.5 P2 2-year lease. More than I want to pay per month, but in 2 years the market will be completely different - might get 2 smaller cheaper EVs for the same money…
_Tell me Lies. Tell me sweet little Lies_
"Don't buy a new car" has been solid advice since before I was born. We bought a 2019 Nissan LEAF with 48,000 km in December and it cost us half what a 2023 would have. We had an adventure and eventually a $300 towing bill to get it back from Regina to Saskatoon, but that's less than 2% of the amount we saved by going used. What did we miss out on? The 360-degree camera, and our battery has 2 kWh *more* than the new model although it's probably a little more degraded. That's about it. Oh, and it was originally sold in Quebec so the owner's manual was in French, so we had to find an English version online which took ... seconds.
What else did the 'adventure' involve beyond the $300? Renting a car? Using taxis/Uber/etc?
If my car breaks down, it costs me money beyond towing. It costs me having to rent another car. Or if on vacation it costs me enjoyment. Neither of which are free or make me happy. I think you are downplaying the inconvenience here a bit by only considering the amount you saved and the towing cost and none of the other issues.....like how did it affect you life? How much did it cost to fix? Pretty HUGE considerations given the tone of your comment. (How great was your deal all things considered with lost time, tow, repair, etc?)
@@ian3580I'm pretty surprised that a car with such low mileage can break down that badly. But good considerations of buying new vs used. If somebody buys certified pre-owned, they can get a deal on a low mileage used car that may have the same or better warranty and longer roadside assistance
@@ian3580 Our car didn't break down. We underestimated our range and pulled into a parking lot when the range display said 30 km and the map said 57 km to the charge point. No repair bill, nothing wrong with the car, it just wouldn't have made it on what we had left. The tow truck put us on the flatbed and dropped us off at the charge point, told us he did this several times a month, and that we were wise to stop when we did instead of draining the whole battery. We charged up to 90%, drove more slowly from Davidson, and made it home with 10% charge. Plugged it in to the side of the house and everything's been great since. A massive improvement over our old 2003 Civic. Our power bill is up by $60 a month and I have no idea what the price of gas is any more.
It was a minor misadventure because we didn't know the car yet, and it was also -15 Celsius that day, which hit the range somewhat. We got home at 9 PM instead of 6. How was the deal? Going used saved us over $20,000, even after the tow truck. So absolutely worth it.
The only maintenance we've had to do is changing to winter tires, and we'll be changing back to the all-seasons soon. Our first scheduled checkup/inspection/whatever is in June.
The LEAF also had the 360° camera in the 2019 model year, but it depended on the trim level and option packages.
Also, better to buy a Nissan than a Chinese Volvo.
Volvo/PoleStar adaptive cruise is funky across all models. I had a 24 S60 B5 Black Edition on loan while my wagon got fixed and the adaptive cruise tried to suck me up exit ramps more times than not.
Oh, and there are two big reasons why ALL EV’s rapidly depreciate….especially one’s like yours that has 77k miles on the ODO - (1) At best, traction batteries in all EV’s are only warrantied for 100K miles. At the rate you drive, in one more year your battery will be out of warranty, and you COULD be looking at an expensive replacement. Small probability, but the chances are still there for someone buying a used EV. But what the magazines don’t tell you is that even after 200k miles, few batteries don’t stop working, altogether. They just have 20-30% reduced range. For many, that will still work fine with their driving habits; and (2) EV tech changes so rapidly in EV’s, that within 2-3 years, the tech in the newest models can be a game changer for some. That’s not the case with ICE cars….who’s tech slowly changes over decades, not years.
KBB has really took a hit by pandemic. Its value now is basically irrelevant because every single dealer will add a huge markup to any car you buy.
The dealer will add a markup to their car due to “low supply”, but they’ll still bottom dollar your car based on the book value…
The best way to buy a car is directly from the manufacturer. Dealers are such a pain to deal with. 🌈 @@psychoboyaw
@@psychoboyaw I mean, that's how it's always been. But like landlords, auto dealers are really taking advantage of the post-lockdown culture to absolutely drive prices as high as they can possibly go, and probably beyond.
I've noticed that as well while shopping for used cars. A case in point I recall is I was looking at a '15 Volt that I managed to grab the VIN and place it in KBB's used car price and got a suggested sell price of [X]. Another car site on YT recommended that a used car price when buying is X+$2,500. The car in question was sitting on a small used car lot for X+$5,000 and the dealer was refusing to budge. Just a few days ago, he called me and said he was willing to drop the price by $500. I think I'll wait a bit longer, LOL.
Kbb is the average used sales price regionally adjusted. Dealerships add additional markups to cover their higher costs and to stand behind warranty when offered. A used car lot will be cheaper and private sales cheaper still. And the kbb average still represents the whole market with decent accuracy.
This is the best kind of car review ever made. Lots of facts and background information.
It’s also quite honestly talking about the drawbacks
When you said 200 miles real world range, the first thought through my head was "finally, the 200 mile for under 20k car I've been calling for since 2015." Then you continued your thought....
Leased a new Volvo S60 about 10 years ago and pronounced it to be a giant piece of junk I couldn't wait to be rid of. I liked the styling, but the tech was half-baked, the dealer never could get the drivers seat to feel fully fastened, and there were random squeaks and clunks that just didn't inspire confidence. That experience will keep me away from future Volvo/Polestar/Zhejiang Geely vehicles. Bought a used Porsche for 1/3 the cost which has been way more fun and relatively cheap to own, augmented by a Lexus hybrid crossover which has been bulletproof.
I have to say, as Illinoisans ourselves, I’m from Chicago, my husband is from downstate Champaign/Urbana area so I’m loving your “Normal, IL” shirt. As well, we have almost the same vehicle and we find your videos fun, informative, engaging and entertaining too! Keep up the great work and we agree; 100% would buy another one!
Robert, you have sparked my interest in EVs ever since you and Alec did the EV road trip. I even rented one for a month and a half through Lyft and it was exactly the experience I was expecting - charging can be hit and miss when it's a non Tesla - but it was a lot of fun to learn about the EV life. Thank you for posting completely honest reviews and ownership updates in your humorous yet informative manner.
Likewise. I went ahead and splurged on an i4 m50 because of these guys making the trip in a non Tesla vs a Tesla. And they even ended up where I live, Orlando. Lol
The clicking under regen braking is apparently a contactor/relay clicking according to my Volvo dealer (I'm in the UK, hence taking it to Volvo). I'm told that this is normal behaviour and not necessarily indicative of a fault.
Also, yeah, feel you on the depreciation. My 2022 SRSM in Midnight with pilot and plus packs is worth a shade under half of what I paid new...
On mine, I hear two clicks. There are clicks coming from the dash that are synchronized to the brake lights coming on and off, and I think that's because I have the tow hitch, because everyone I've asked who hears that one also has the tow hitch. I also get clicks out of the rear axle on deceleration and tight turns.
I'm a few thousand miles under the end of warranty, so I'm probably going to call and ask about that shortly.
even before EVs the general wisdom imparted to me by my elders was "never buy a new car, buy the lease return" it seems thats true for EVs just as well. the depreciation any cars even ICE cars have in their first few years is crazy to me. currently leasing my first EV (german so Opel Mokka e, buick in the US?) and it was a learning experience. i learned that i really really love the instant torque and feel of driving an EV but also that i really really want battery preconditioning which my skew doesnt have
The conundrum with that 'sage advice' is that if EVERONE did that, they would be no cars sold. Someone has to buy a car new, to have used cars. When OPs elders can sort this problem thru-please post here.
@@harriettanthony7352 He didn't even suggest buying a new car......but the point is similar.
I thought it funny that the "wisdom imparted to me by my elders was 'never buy a new car, buy the lease return" was the beginning of the comment, but then he didn't follow it and instead leases......and then doesn't give feedback that has anything to do with the experience of buying a lease return or leasing a vehicle.. Just a strong of random info..
@@harriettanthony7352 that is what a lot of people are already doing, dealerships here are massively pushing for leasing. leasing cars are brand new cars "sold" by the manufacturer theres just a bank thats buying it and then renting it out to you. it makes no difference to the manufacturer. A 3 year lease return is the same for the used market as a car that was bought and driven for 3 years and then listed on the used market.
@@ZariTenjin I'm also from Germany and I was looking for used (especially lease return) EVs. When I went to Hyundai and asked about the Ioniq5 they almost fell over laughing. The salesman told me that 100% of the cars that get returned are going straight to scandinavian countries, especially Denmark. There, they can sell them for almost sticker price when new as the luxury tax (they have special taxes for cars above a certain size and engine power) doesn't apply or isn't nearly as high for used cars compared to new ones.
Then I was looking into smaller ones (Peugeot 208-e) just to get around town but in the end that didn't make any sense financially as I still would need to have a gas car to visit my family (about 200mi away).
As a car guy, buying a Tesla is absolutely out of the question. I will never buy a brand that won't sell me spare parts.
So for now, I just tabled the decision. I want to have a car with around 250mi of range, about the size of a Golf, no SUV, from a somewhat good car manufacturer. I thought about the MG4 as well, but I don't really like how it looks and the MG cars don't seem to be all there yet. I heard of problems where the cars accelerated by itself and someone even dying because of that.
@@ian3580 i wasnt in the market for buying a car, im leasing so i can try out EVs before commiting to a buy. that doesnt invalidate the advice given to me. i will follow it when i buy a car.
This guy is a legend.. He tells warts and all and laughs it all off... And he drives the car rather than wash it... A must watch for all EV owners.. I'm a Polestar 2 owner and enjoyed his down to earth honest reviews with a large helping of humour. Brilliant.
I’m European and don’t own a car. But totally worth a sub just for the comedic commentary/timing and slick jump cuts.
My guess for the popping noise is strut tower bearing. So nothing to worry about and will go away when you replace the shocks.
Yep came to mention this
Hold up there's a bearing it the strut tower ?? For what ? Nothing moves around only up and down, or do you mean at the top of the shock where it pivots ?
@@dietznutz1i think he meant bushing or rubber dampener. There is no such thing as a shock bearing. They are designed for vertical motion and horizontal forces, not rotation like a bearing.
@Noah_E exactly what I was thinking
In the front end, I would think it would be the bearing in the top hat for the strut to allow it to rotate with the steering knuckle/hub assembly
Part of selling is that someone has to want to buy it. The people buying this type of car are more inclined to buy a new one (for various reasons), so the resale is much lower.
And if you bought in 2022 at the pandemic car price peak, the cost of a new and improved 2024 is going to be lower than what you paid, making the depreciation on an old one even worse.
Yes, it was like that in UK years ago with cars like the Jaguar V12. If you could afford to run one you could afford to buy a new one, so the used ones were very cheap.
In the U.K. people lease new ones to save tax. I just checked and leases are about £500 a month. However, a higher rate tax payer would only see £260 come off the bottom line of their payslip.
In part, thanks to your earlier videos about your Polestar 2, I went ahead and got a 2024 LRSM Polestar. I'm just loving it. For my road trips btwn Florida and Western New York it's been a real treat. The bigger battery, and improved charging, plus the general comfort of the car and it's enjoyable handling just make road trips fun.
I also love my 2024 lrsm. Here in Norvay it cost the same as a Toyota Corolla.
Seriously, why this channel doesnt have 10 MILLION subscribers ? Your are hilarious, thorough, unbiased, clear and stupid-proof. Love it so much! 😂❤
I have a 2024 RWD Polestar 2 and absolutely love it. I leased it so zero worries and I'll probably lease another Polestar after I turn it in. Just get one. You'll be happy you did.
I love how you can ask the batteries how they feel
Since there's no industry or government standard to it (that I'm aware of), I always wonder what keeps them from being a bit over optimistic?
@@nowayjose596 Could be because it's usually a completly hidden value
@@nowayjose596 due to inherently how the batteries work. They have way better performance and lifespan than expected in reality. The BMS metrics are very realistic.
I saw a 2003 Honda Insight in a parking lot, ended up talking to the owner. He's got 359K miles on it, and the battery pack is starting to fade. The vehicle as a whole was in great condition, both interior and exterior. I don't see many of these in northeast Georgia. I also pointed him at your channel, so maybe you'll have one more subscription :)
The fact that he got 359k miles on it before the battery tanked, especially here in GA is nothing short of a miracle. You don't see many of those because most of them are paper weights 200k miles before that.
Dream on. No way is that car on its original battery. And if it is installed, it is not functional. Those are Ni-MH batteries originally and lasted about 10 years. After that, the car still functions, but very weak on acceleration. If the battery is functioning, it has been replaced. And being we are now in 2024, it's probably ready for its 3rd battery.
@@OmegaGamingNetwork no way, those 1st gen insights are way overbuilt and commonly go 200k+. You can now get lithium batteries to replace the original NiCd/NiMh cells too and get even better fuel economy than the already really good 65+mpg.
@@Fhwgads11 Overbuilt and popular..yet somehow selling for less than 10k and many for less than 5...yep, popular. The market doesn't reflect your claims.
@@OmegaGamingNetwork I never claimed popular, but go off
My dear old father who actually had an Austin dealership back in the day [yes I'm that old] told me never to buy a new car as they were overpriced, get one about three years old, all the kinks will have been ironed out and you can get a super posho deluxe model without the overcharging.
The same advice can be given about women. The older ones have the kinks ironed out, and you can get the super posho deluxe model... just beware of body damage, and that sometimes the computer control modules have faults.
Great update video! My Polestar 2 (LRSM +pilot lite) was a decision I made following lots of research; including your Polestar videos (actually got me into your channel - love your honest style BTW Robert). As mine is a company car, I don't care about the depreciation and has been a great decision. Now at around 16 months old (26,400 miles / ~42,400 km) I have had my first major problem, the cabin heater has stopped working and I suspect the heater module has burnt out (something to do with that build quality you mentioned). Currently having to wait over a month for a service slot at a Volvo garage to fix it. As it's a cold April here in the UK, driving to work is not so much fun at the moment. Otherwise my only 'negative' things have been the ease the FWD looses traction under reasonable acceleration if it is at all damp (see UK weather) an intermediate passenger seat rattle and a period of what sounded like broken glass in a speaker coming from the A-pillar. Love my Polestar 2 though.
What's your suggestion about buying a Polestar for anywhere between 25k-35k. I know nothing about cars but like the look of it. Want to buy one where the bulk of the depreciation has already happened and sell in around 2-3 years for as close to what I bought it for!
just happened across this video , really informative but with a great sense of humour thrown in. Excellent editing , goodness knows how long it took to make and complete. l look forward to watching more .
In my Bolt it has a Max - Medium - Min range estimate. It's one of the best and most overlooked software features of this car in my opinion. It has an indicator to show how your driving habits relate to the estimate and where you will end up in the estimate if you continue driving at the same pace.
Even other chevy evs I've seen reviews of seem to be missing this feature.
My Leaf on the other hand always showed an incredibly optimistic range estimate and it was very untrustworthy.
The volts did it too. my 2012 one i absolutely refuse to get rid of will tell me numbers that actually sound like numbers. my partners model 3 however... yea its really optimistic like stupidly optimistic which has been a real surprise when you look at the estimate of 175 miles and go ok theres a super charger 140 miles from me. i should be able to easily make it. only to hit low power mode after 110 miles and now your scrambling to find anything nearby.
I believe chevrolet called that feature the trend line. its pretty nice as i can often tell just based off that line if im doing better or worse than my average. i also have the optimistic number which only applies if im doing 25 MPH downhill with tornado force winds pushing me along to the min number which i would say is the exact opposite. it tends to very much underestimate so even when it says like 90 miles i know its more like 115 with the trend number being pretty much the right one. its very goldilocks but i kinda love it since it aint lying like a few other hybrids and EVs ive driven where the numbers might as well be useless and your left spinning the wheel of fish to figure out how far it will actually go.
Here in Norway the same car goes for 40k-50k. I’ve had my polestar 2 for roughly the same time as you and I absolutely love it.
'Only' 1,5 years here and Polestar is just so enjoyable to drive.
When you don’t have so far to drive across country, I guess they’re OK?
@@Justacogg I regularly cross the country, I’ve not had much of an issue. When you’re roadtripping, you have to stop and take a rest at regular intervals no matter what, and when we do we charge the car
@@Justacogg I have done few 1500km or 1000km trips. For me just fine. I also charge quite often and not that much (like 10% - 60%), buy something to drink, some snacks maybe, visit toilet and go.
I bought a new P2 PPP a month ago, based on your previous review (and other reviews. And getting a great deal. And not listening very carefully to what you said). So far, I absolutely love it and very happy you still like it after so long.
Man is this car absolutely jaw-droppingly gorgeous. One of the best looking cars ever made in my opinion, especially in todays sea of overdesigned vehicles. Really sleek, thoughtful, timeless aesthetics, which is great because it'll still look good in 20 years when people are done with their payments.
That is one reason why I leased my Polestar 2. I have just turned it in at the end of my lease after 39 momths and 32700 miles. Bottom line is I loved the Polestar 2. It has every feature I need and with software updates the range is more than when I started my lease. I did not notice any significant battery degradation. I also did not have the tire wear problems but I did have winter tires as well as my summer tires.
Ive tried the auto steer thing on a Volvo V90, and found it terrifying, as same as in the Polestar it tried to drift down every exit and it hugged the edge of the lane, and seemed to move closer to the edge when passing or being passed like it was actively trying to collide, so it was exhausting keeping it from killing us all the time, and less tiring and stressful to just steer manually
I used to own a Volvo V90 for about a year and must say that I never had issues with it steering on to the exit ramps, however I also would agree, that it hugged the left side of the lane. Kinda ruined the experience, since I didn't like it being so close to the other lane of cars going by.
Well I guess you should know what WLTP stands for - Way Less Than Predicted.
It's on par with NEDC, which stands for Not Even Damn Close.
This video reiterates why I will be keeping my Australian made Intech, it's 24 years old this year and still runs and drives perfectly.
Entirely irrelevant. Also, what is an Intech?
@@jamesengland7461 The engine
How many miles on it?
Exactly, my 28 year old 4.0i OHC still runs perfectly and is easily user serviceable.
@@Jcewazhere Around half a million kilometers. Intech engines are known to pass a million kilometers with ease, had an ex-taxi come in for a service at 1.7 million, no major work done apart from one automatic gearbox.
I would 100% have you as a mentor, you're concise yet humorous which is SO HARD TO DO
My family bought a polestar 2 at a similar time as you with similar constraints: limited stock, horrifying delivery, and rising gas prices. The little glitches and issues coupled with its decline in value have made him very angry about it. Watching your video provided a cathartic experience for him. We may be able to cancel the therapy we had scheduled. Thanks!!!
I have never understood why people say that buying a new vehicle is a bad idea because of the depreciation. Unless you are going to be selling the vehicle shortly after purchasing it, there isn't a reason I can think of why you should be concerned about the value of the vehicle. I purchased a 2021 Toyota Tacoma brand new. I have no concern about what the truck is worth right now. I have no intention of getting rid of it. I intend to use it until it completely falls apart and is not usable anymore.
What is the reason any of you are concerned about the value of a vehicle if you are not going to be selling it?
My thoughts exactly
Most new vehicles aren't Tacomas that you can keep forever because they will last until the heat death of the universe. Most new vehicles are turds like the Chevy Cruz, Traverse, and Equinox that turn into endless moneypits as they age. Resale value suddenly becomes a big factor.
Well, if you know it has high depreciation you could save a fortune by buying a used one. So it's useful information when considering whether to buy new or used.
Once you own it though - yes, doesn't matter if you're not going to sell, but most people do sell at some point.
Depreciation has a reliability component included. Very High depreciation vehicles are usually problematic in one way or another.
It can be used as a basic gauge.
If your car depreciates a lot in a few weeks or months.....then you should have bought used....and there are a lot of very new vehicles that are on the market. Sure, you're not worried about resale, but if you look at where you are 6 months into ownership (~6k miles) you owe more on your car than you could but the same for. Same with a year-old and 12k. That's what people mean. 'New' carries a HUGE premium....and especially if you don't pay cash, you pay interest on that premium.
Yeah, the last time I needed a car, all the cars I wanted were like, $40K or more. So I looked around and bought used, and let some else pay for the first three years of depreciation.
I've owned that car for 10 years now, trouble free. (Knock on wood...)
just 1 more year until those 2022 polestar 2s finish pretending to be worth $25k
In Switzerland, one with 110'000 km on the odometer, that sells for between USD 33'00 to 40'000. Such a huge difference.
that's because EVs are popular in Switzerland.. not so much in America or other countries like mine where the resale value is dismal..
@@UnacceptableViews Now that makes a lot of sense. Cheers.
@@UnacceptableViews Also because Musk lowered the price of the model 3 and Hertz dumped their fleet of Polestars at discount prices ... here in EU prices are still kind of holding up a bit for 2nd hand cars.
That is insane. Just checked mobile de. For that kind of money, you'll find cars with less than 10k in germany.
Yeah EV prices are so much different in Europe. High depreciation sure but still totally acceptable resale values
3:10 "Changing direction completely"... video playing in reverse while Robert tries not to laugh.. This is some Airplane! level humour right here.
Buying a new car isn't about making the most sensible decision, otherwise everyone would just buy a Toyota Corolla, and they'd be driving around constantly about to fall asleep because of how boring it is. It's about what makes you happy, and if you enjoy driving your car, which you clearly do, then you've made the right choice.
The clicking from the rear is indicative of an issue with the rear drive axle. Had mine replaced under warranty - it’s a common thing. Funny enough, it took about 4 trips to Polestar and me recording the sound to get them to fix it. The tech advised that I get audio recordings of issues to help ensure they don’t come back and say they “can’t hear it”.
Funny how mechanics who spend all day using effin loud impact tools can't hear squeaks and rattles. My dad is a retired auto restoration shop owner and watches TV so loud I can hear it from the driveway and it makes my ears ring after an hour at 3/4 of his usual volume, which is ungodly loud.
Common problem with all Geely's CMA platform based vehicles from what I've heard.
interesting and honest rundown. 🤣
i like my 23 bolt euv's estimates by actual consumption for the main number.
being canadian, it easily makes 200 miles in good weather without heat needs.
i like the hands free of gm's supercruise in mine.
and adaptive cruise is a nice feature to have.
just getting it to release from the vehicle in front until they leave your lane can be annoying and needs a little footwork override sometimes. 😁
and like you we didn't worry about the huge original drop in value.
it suits us, even with the bolts slow fast charge. (have yet to charge away from home).
super cheap energy costs to get around is why we bought it.
$0.15/kwh makes it pretty cheap to drive.
I appreciate the fact that overall you're mostly brand agnostic. That you find faults in vehicles that you love while not letting that ruin things for you; and that you love a number of things in absolutely, deeply-flawed vehicles.
I haven't seen your videos in several years and had this video stumble upon my homepage. You have become way comfortable in front the camera and are letting your humour shine from the last time I've seen you. Subbed
The airbag light is wire under the seat. Next time it comes one try to move your seat back and forth. Worked on my dacia, more permanent solution is to fix the connection, very very common issue with great many cars.
When sending car to the dealer I usually make a video of the problematic noise and even do some EQ on it (usually hi-pass and maybe compression). Once it helped, the other time it did not. I had a screaming interior heating fan (sounded like a circular saw in both the frequency and loudness) and dealer still said he doesn't hear anything...
Regarding the tires: I heard (from F9 youtube motorbike channel) that OEM tires might have a bit less thread on them so they indeed would wear out sooner.
@@Channel-gz9hm In my experience the tech said, while watching the video, that he doesn't hear anything ;-)
What do you even mean here? "When sending car to the dealer I usually make a video"
In the same manner as the lane assist vs lane departure warning, I rented an MG Marvell, who's cruise control drifted about +- 5 km/h (3 mph) above or below the set limit for some reason. As it drifts closer to +5 km/h, it sternly shouts at you that you are speeding. ...yeah.🤦♂
I bought a new 2023 M3LR, and have been very happy with it. Not quite as bad on the value as your car, but I think that is a bit temporary with Teslas just because the batteries are so much cheaper. The charge stations are cheaper also. I'm looking to buy a EV for my GF, and will definitely be going used, before people come to their senses!
Your previous videos helped me make the decision to get a CPO 2021 P2. I am grateful to people like you for taking the depreciation hit lol
I had the facelift EU version since November, just single motor, extended range and so far I love it. It's faster than most of the cars while thanks to single motor is relatively efficient. The depreciation will be a problem for EVs since every year there is something new with more range, more power, more efficiency or other "ground breaking" advancements. But if I knew some battery specialist to confirm the battery degradation I would totally buy a used one for a good price.
I just cant get enough of this lad
I have zero interest in owning an EV, but still enjoy these videos. 10/10, would watch again.
Your framing is absolutely perfect, best I've ever seen on any channel! Love your channel, keep up the good work
Looking at a slightly used electric car and this review was EXCELLENT! It provides a lot of info I've been looking for. Thanks. (My other options are Mach-E, EV6 or IONIQ5, all a bit more practical, but look less cool)
Depreciation is only an issue if you're one of those folks who like a new car every few years. That strategy has always been the most effective way to burn money, especially if you like expensive metal. The rich and their money are easily separated by motoring trinkets they don't need. For the rest of us, if you really must buy a new car, buy one you actually like and want to drive until it's no longer viable to own. That way it doesn't matter what the depreciation is. Personally, I buy cars that are high mileage but reliable or cheap and easy to fix. I've spent less than the price of a new Polestar in the past 30 years of motoring.
Real money doesn't burn like paper, but I do appreciate the sight gag, solid humor.
It's ok, I bought a model 3 and burnt money as well. Only difference is that my warranty is made out of tissue paper and Tesla refuses to fix my car.
My Tesla 2018 Model 3 Performance has been solid and the few minor service/maintenance items I’ve had Tesla perform were performed quickly and properly. They give me a loaner car, Uber credits, or their mobile service team does the work at my house.
And it’s still a blast to drive. That is, when I want to drive. Most of the 300 miles of driving I’ve done the past two days has been done by the car. Including city streets, not just freeway. It gets better with every software update.
So, while the depreciation is an issue, my car now does things that it didn’t do when it was new which arguably increases its utility and value.
And it charges at 250KW at the plentiful Tesla Superchargers.
Play stupid games, win stupid prizes!
As usual brilliantly edited brilliant script and highly entertaining but as you say I'll stick with my 19 year old Volvo wagon.
"Changing direction completely" while showing video in reverse, love this editing. Please don't ever stop with these jokes.
I bought a polestar 2 because of your last update video and I’m absolutely loving it!!!! I was going crazy without CarPlay on my Tesla Model s
I also have the grumble, clicking sound from the right-rear during regen braking below around 20 miles per hour. When I purchased the car (with about 18,000 miles on it), I had my local Polestar service center do an inspection.
They indicated there were no signs of unexpected wear or a separated CV boot on that corner.
Are you saying "BREAKY or BRAKEY" ... which one do you want it to do, and which one shouldn't it do? 🤣
well the airbag issue tells us that they might be one and the same
Adapative cruise is the best thing ever for cars. Well, maybe just after brakes. Adaptive cruise is what cruise control should have always been.
Honestly yeah, my mom's 21 Subaru is so good I drove 251 miles without doing a single thing, my Honda isn't as good but if you keep tension on the steering wheel when the windshield is clean it holds decently
Degeneracy is taking over
so long as I have the option of disabling it and using normal cruise control...
@@orppranator5230 that's true! I am fairly certain all cars you can disable it, convoluted in some cases, usually by holding the cruise button or the follow distance setting
@@orppranator5230 NO. The point is that Adaptive Cruise is far, far superior than "normal" cruise. I wouldn't even call old school cruise a control of the operating of the car. It sets a speed that gets turned off every time you brake because there's a semi coming up. Then old school cruise has to be set again, requiring more driver attention to the gauges and not the road. Old school cruise control is a distraction. Adaptive cruise doesn't need that constant attention to the speed, making it easier to pay attention to everything else happening on the road.
Adaptive cruise should be mandatory, and not be able to turn off, because it's much safer management of speed. The same way air bags and seat belts are safer and can't be turned off.
LOVE your reviews, your humor - Keep up the amazing work!
I bought one of the first edition performance pack models (with all the options). I loved it. I kept it for 21 months and did about 15.5k miles in it (it was Covid time so it limited my mileage). At the time I sold it we had all the inventory issues globally and hence I got close to what I paid for it new(!) When I next need a car I will be looking for a used Polestar 2 performance…they are so much fun. One hint: don’t change the tyre type - they were designed explicitly for the P2 performance (in particular they have stiffened sidewalls and noise damping),
Again, it's all about the tax credits. A Model Y gets $7500 new EV credit and the second buyer gets to claim $4000 used EV credit. That means a new Polestar buyer starts off $11,500 in the hole before depreciation even begins.
The tax credit situation keeps changing and I'm not familiar with the details at all anymore, so I just didn't even mention it. I think both car qualify for the used tax credit, so that's a pretty level playing field.
Tax credits for electric cars are stupid
@@agingwheels Well, as the Polestar is from China, I doubt that. The IRA is a "protectionism" act, America is scared shitless (as it should) about the steamroller called Chinese EV manufacturing.
@@F40PH-2CAT tax credits for all cars?
@@Ari--dor no cars. Even better, how about no tax at all?
New cars always ship with very soft compound tires for maximum traction and ride comfort. That's why they wear out so fast. You'll notice the wear number will be around 200ish instead of 400ish.
It's even worse than that... often times, the OEM rubber will start out with physically less rubber (less depth to the tread) to begin with.
I feel like these are both rumours that are not true. Apart from OE specific tyres (like BMW star marked or Porsche N0 marked or Hyundai HN marked or whatever) there's no reason for OEM supplied tyres to any different than standard production tyres. Fitting less tread depth would give the OE tyre supplier a bad reputation with the new car buyer, while treadwear ratings between 220 and 340 are normal for summer performance tyres as fitted as standard to the Polestar, Tesla, BMW and other prestige sedans (as well as on sportscars, of course).
[The overall diameter of a tyre size (e.g., 255*0.40*2+18*25.4=661.2mm for a 255/40 R18) is for when it's new, so if they made a version with less tread depth just for supplying OE, they would need different moulds which would surely add more cost far beyond whatever saving of putting less tread rubber on the OE-supplied tyre?!]
@@TassieLorenzo Tire shaving is making a come back. Since a lot of vehicles are AWD or some variation of e-AWD etc. shaving tires to make them perfectly round or to balance treadwear on a replacement tire is a growing thing. That would reduce tread depth some.
And in the name of the customer having the best initial ownership experience having more true tires and the best grip and ride is absolutely worth it. It's not about saving money on the tires themselves as a softer compound tire isn't cheaper.
here where i live in brazil, older luxury cars depreciate like rocks, and old cars in general tend to hit absurdly low values before going up, tbh for 18k its just better to just keep it forever, thats too much money lost just keep it as much as u can
One of the best videos you have done in a long time.
Glad you are MOSTLY enjoying your purchase and I hope you hold on to it for a long time. Honestly seems like a reliable vehicle, just sadly outclassed by the competition.
That depreciation is INSANE though. I assume Teslas are the only EVs that don't get hit on that so bad, but even then I assume it's high.
Subscribed off this video alone. Through a twist of fate I ended up in a Polestar2 performance for about a month a while ago and I couldn’t wait for you to talk about the “lane keeping.”😂 This video has me considering buying the 2024 rwd version, but it also has me NOT considering a new car. Either way, I’d consider your car buying advice well did.
When I replaced the Conti tires on my model Y, I went with Vredestein Quadtracs. I like them so well that my winter tires are Wintertracs.
7:35 I like how he's cutting it away every time he's about to eat it so he doesn't have to eat it :D
Or maybe he cuts away because he is eating it? xd
Maybe because he doesn't wanna talk while chewing?
@@tiborklein5349 Great, next video the entire Factor ad will be him talking with his mouth full, watch.
He has to do multiple takes and scenes: there'd be no food left to show, its messy, its cold, he 'd have to brush his teeth on shooting location, he doesn't want to spoil his appetite for lunch, as he wants to eat it whole to enjoy his lunch, or maybe he ate lunch, he wants plate always to look full for camera. maybe plate is expired over several days shooting.
@@mikemotorbike4283 TBF, he looks like he always has an appetite for lunch.
I've heard it's quite a common experience for the first set of EV tyres to last a lot less than subsequent sets. As the owner spends the first 10,000 miles booting it everywhere before the novelty begins to wear off... along with the rubber.
....which begs the question, why do EV manufacturers think we're all fixated on winning the traffic light grand prix? It would be very easy to design a car which takes off more gently and thus gives extended tyre life, and probably much improved range as well. Throw away all the irritating and failure-prone gadgetry, and let's have an affordable EV, please!
i have no idea if this was planned but to have that pole directly behind the car in all the shots is masterful camera work.
At first I was on the "EVs are bad!" bandwagon, then I took a 6 hour trip in an Ioniq 6 and was genuinely impressed. As someone who likes to buy a cutdown flagship phone (Pixel 6A) or a used flagship phone off of eBay, used EVs fill the same hole in my heart. I have a long commute, but if I was able to charge at home it wouldn't even be a question. If my straight 6 diesel Mercedes ever gives up, my next car will likely be a used EV.
15:24 I don't know how it's for Volvo cars, but having "Auto Steer" on a VAG car, which can be enabled with software... requires a steering wheel swap. Normal steering wheels don't contain a capacitive touch sensor to detect the hands. If these are not present then the car keeps yelling to put the hands on the steer, unless you literally steer in some direction.
What happens if you are driving with gloves on?
I enjoyed watching this not-a-car-buying-advice video. thx
77 000 miles in 2 years. That's mad! I couldn't imagine driving 100 miles per day.
I don't do it all the time (mercifully) but my work commute is a 160 mile round trip. And yes, it does take it out of you.
@@HowardLeVert 160 miles is roughly the size of my country (Belgium) 🤣. My commute to university is 25 miles round trip.
@@yannick7230I used to do 95 miles a day round trip. I've talked to people who do 200 miles a day.
Did you hear about the guy who owned the million mile Volvo. It's now 3 million miles. When he first got the car he drove several thousand miles on a weekend. I think he just really enjoyed driving
That's how much I drive. I'm driving petrol skoda kamiq 2022 with additional LPG tank it can do 1500 km ( 1000miles) with 1 charge.
but I didn't think it was possible with an electric car because you would have to charge it so many times....
But if I had a better and funnier car to drive I'll probably put even more miles per year 😢😂😂
Great info, no issues on mine other than the buggy system sometimes and tires, P2 22, 35k mil, got the same color with the plus pack, thought about getting a larger vehicle but the upside down is not not great at the moment, altho numbers are moving up as the market stabilizes…
19:44 "Buying weird crap that no-one wants..." Done that. In 2001 I bought a 1972 Hillman Avenger (Plymouth Cricket) for £10. It's a hoot.
But I would love Polestar 2 one day. No money though. I don't do things on credit, if I can't afford it then I don't buy it.
Do you think part of the reason the value is tanking is because the new prices were so inflated? Were these cars really worth 60k new?
They were worth roughly half of their MSRP when new when compared to a similar ICE. Tax rebates incentivize inflated prices when new and hurt resale value.
They cost more to make than they can sell them for, except for Telsa and BYD.
You may dislike the corolla. But after 10 years and 150000 miles it'll be worth more than the death star
It doesn't matter how much corollas are worth, they suck the fun out of driving. No performance, mediocre handling, no steering feel, no braking feel, not quiet, and not even impressively efficient. At least honda paid a small amount of attention to driving dynamics in civics. Toyota doesn't seem to care about making driving anything more than a chore.
@@yucannthahvitt I would amend your statement. "Toyota doesn't seem to care about making driving anything more than a... utility." I'm fine with that.
@@davidhunternyc1 Utility? Explain why the corolla hatchback is shorter than the corolla then. It has worst in class storage space, not very utilitarian. Compare with the old king of utility hatchbacks, the honda fit. Compare even with the toyota matrix and scion xb.
@yucannthahvitt251 mf said honda fit. Who tf buys a honda fit and thinks they got a gtr lmao.
@@bdbyt6835 This reminds me of my days waiting tables. This macho Albanian waiter was strutting his stuff, trying to convince everyone that he had a Lamborghini. I didn't believe him and I started laughing hysterically but he kept trying to convince us. I called him out on his bullsh*t. He said, "Yo! Son! Seriously! I've got a Lamborghini dude! For real! It's an Acura TX baby... an ACURA T... X!"
How on earth do you put so many miles on a car in such a short period of time? I feel like i drive all the time and at most put like 18k miles on in a year.
I think he’s a taxi driver. That much mileage at average speeds equates to more than a few hours a day in the car.
Thanks for the review Robert! I recently got a new car as well, been driving the wheels off it, put 16,300 miles on it in about 6 months. It's a 2024 Mitsubishi Mirage. Luckily it's the cheapest new car, I owe nothing. Bought it out right. I can't see getting something as expensive as the Polestar though.
The Mirage is fun, it's like a street legal go cart, but a bit safer, and nicer.