Nice tips... I'm going to give this a try. I like that the extra thinned coats get to absorb into the wood and adhere better than the standard non-thinned poly. Tx!
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Question... I know you probably exclusively use oil based poly, but I wonder if the same can be done with Polycrylic by adding water to it in the same way... knowing I might have a bit more sanding between coats due to the possible grain raise it may cause with those first couple coats.
@csimet I understand you can add water but I would check with the manufacturer. To avoid the grain pop, After sanding you can water pop it first by gently spraying water on it, let it dray and resend it. Water popping works well
Mr Bayne, I'm an amateur sawdust generator and just started back into woodworking after not being in it for over 50 years (high school). Just building for fun, not commercially. But your tip on how to apply Polyurethane by thinning it and wiping has worked WONDERFUULY! No brush marks, beautiful finish and very easy. It takes more time and coats but the results are amazing. Thank you!
What I had always wanted to learn, excellent video, no one had ever explained it better, my eyes opened, I always left marks with the brushes, now I will test your teaching, thank you very much, I hope many will see this video. since it only has few subscribers, but you. he is a very good teacher
Thanks for the informative video. I have been using a very similar technique for the last twenty-five years, also with excellent results. I start with a coat of gloss poly/thinner. If you add the second coat at around four hours, you don't have to sand. I start with three coats, then let it dry overnight. I lightly sand with 0000 Liberon steel wool then add another three coats of gloss poly/thinner. I let the project dry overnight, then lightly sand again. Finally, I add a topcoat of satin poly/thinner. I find I get better depth of clarity by just using the satin poly for the last coat.
Thanks for sharing your technique. If I understand correctly you also always use poly + thinner and not straight poly. Am I right? Also, will you please elaborate on the mixing ratios for poly + thinner? Or are they same as Roger's? Thanks - learning a lot from these videos and comments from experienced people like you and Roger.
@@ashokmoghe8035 You can cut the poly 50:50 with thinner (I like mineral spirits like Bayne does). You don’t have to change the ratio. The commercial wipe-on poly is just polyurethane diluted with thinner. I have also just brush coated with General Finishes Poly (undiluted) then rubbed it out fast to keep it from building up. That takes more skill, and you have to move fast. The bottom line is that poly is hard to keep from looking like you covered your masterpiece in plastic wrap if you don’t keep the layers very thin. Hope this helps.
Just finished a kitchen table with a brush and wish I had seen your video sooner. Definitely going to try your technique next time as I do have some brush strokes in my final coat. Appreciate you taking time to share your tips.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I couldn't stand it so I sanded down the table with 220 and used your technique and WOW...what a difference...EXACTLY what I was looking for. I don't think I'll ever pick up a brush again. Again thanks for taking time to share your experience with the rest of us.
Now this is the type of news I like to get. I am glad the process has worked out for you. Something that is not in the original post is that after the final coat has had time to dry, usually about 72 hours, I use a brown paper bag to lightly sand. It acts like 2000 grit sandpaper. give it a try
Your video is worth every minute, thanks for taking your time to explain everything, I’ve used water polyurethane on most of my projects just because of how hard it is to get a smooth finish with oil polyurethane.
Finally. 🙌 Your suggestions have saved my project from h-e-double-hockey-sticks. 😭 I had actually made a wipe on poly (without realizing it) - but was using my very expensive, high quality finish brush to apply - and no matter what I did - my initially perfect finish would start to bubble (about 20 min after applying). I was stumped. I tried 4 different kinds of brushes. I tried the finish right out of the can, without thinning.. I tried everything... it was a nightmare! NOTHING produced a clean finish. I was taking all steps.. not missing a beat. So I went back to my thinned poly (using Varathane brand, which I'll likely never use again)... cut up an old cotton t-shirt... and wow... went on like a dream... and so far, it is drying bubble free - as well as brush mark free (wasn't having problems with brush marks, tho - just bubbling). I think I am finally done!!! Hallelujah :)
In spite of the video edits being faffed up, that's not the point of this video (or channel) and I'm liking your explanations and methods. I'm brand new to polyurethane and I'm practicing on a couple pine slabs. Pretty excited to keep learning more and getting better at it!
Oh my goodness! I am so glad that I searched and found your channel! My daughters mistakenly wasted fingernail polish remover on my table!😢😢 I’ve successfully, due to this video, sanded, restained and added polyurethane to my table and it’s as good as new- thanks to you!!😅😅😊
YIKES! Having children and grandchildren I understand how these things happen. This is the type of success story I like to start the week with! I am glad it worked out for you.
Exactly in the same situation. I accidentally spilled nail polish remover on our new table and ruined the finish. I have hope now. What stain did you use? Thanks.
I’ve loved Minwax’s wipe on poly, I’ve used it exclusively for a decade. I always suspected it was merely a thinned version of their usual oil based poly. You’ve given a good recipe for a make your own version. Definitely cheaper than buying a wipe on poly.
Awesome video thanks! FYI minwax tech support recommends only 100% Spirts not the odorless kind. according to them it could make it more foggy. or affect clarity.
Thank you. I have never seen a cloudy or foggy look in 20 years. Now they do make another kind that is milky as you pour it. I would never use that. Thanks for the information
Thank you very much for your time Sr, you have a very generous heart, teaching us How to do things right, much appreciated, I have two dressers to finish, and I did not know what to decide, Water base or oil finish, my decision is to finish the drawers water base, the rest I will follow your videos to the letter, God Bless you always, best regards form Mexico
Hello Roger. I was attempting my first stain project and was having difficulty applying a clean poly clear until I found this video. THANK YOU for saving my sanity! Beautiful solution for me. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
Thank you so much for taking the time to do a detailed video that thoroughly covers this finishing method. You have made a believer out of me. I will soon be trying this method on a table I am currently building for my boat.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I have had to alter the protocol a bit. My table had a cedar coloured stain (to match my boat) and the rag method began to lift the stain (probably due to the high solvent content). So I'm going the give the stain another day to dry and then brush the first sealer coat. Once that coat covers the stain, I can return to the rag method.
Sir; Thanks. will try this technique. Had to strip three time. Used Tung Oil Finish which cured very rough. First attempt was with Poly which developed bibbles. redoing my Coffee Table that we bought 25 years ago from Ethan Allen.
Binoy I am glad you found the post and hope you a able to use it to complete your project. Just make sure all the old finish is removed before applying.
Thank you for sharing this with us. Very informative. I have been trying to decide the best finish for a black walnut “waterfall” table which is 18” on one end and 27” on the crotch end. I initially considered epoxy, but that would make many runs on the waterfall end. Also, I’m leaving the bark on the live edge, albeit after sanding about 1/2 off so it doesn’t catch on pants legs, etc. This method should allow me to use this on the edges so it can “soak” in providing a smooth finish. Again, many thanks!!
Nice video and process. One thing I would add is to mix the satin poly thoroughly before measuring it out because non-gloss sheens contain silica based flatterers that settle to the bottom. It will work fine without shaking, but you’ll get more glossy finish from a fresh can, and more flat finish from the bottom of the can if it’s not shaken well. I’ve been using gloss for all but the last layer or 2, then a gel poly matte topcoat if I want a matte finish (tip from Flexner on Finishing). I like the look of this, but I’ll try satin the way you describe to see if I like the results as well. I like starting with 2 thinner wash coats like you describe as well. I get good results starting with a coarser 120 grit and then applying the 1st wash coat. Then the pores are very open and the thin wash coat of poly can soak in very well. Then I do the fine sanding after the first wash coat is cured, and apply the 2nd wash coat. At this point the wood is sanded to a level where most people start the 1st coat. Subsequent costs only get a light sanding with white scotchbrite or similar to remove dust nibs. The 3rd and later coats I’ve been using a 50/50 poly/spirits mix. I’ll try your heavier ratio as well as it could save me some steps. Thanks again. Finally, I like using spar varnish if I want a bit of a darker look, such as when finishing walnut. The use of more tung & phenolic resins gives it more of a dark amber look. More of the Waterlox original look (my theory is that their wiping varnish is just a variation of thinned spar varnish). I just use inexpensive brands from the big box stores like minwax or Rust-Oleum Marine Spar Varnish because are just is good, inexpensive, and always in stock locally.
Oh , i only wish i found your video before I started to restore my dinning table . I did not know wipe on polyurethane a thing. it was a long 18 days of since I started the project . too many mistakes. too many brush bubbles , too many waves too many hours of sanding to correct the mistake. Too many brush cleaning. Too many hours wasted . 7 times i used brush to try to achieve what one quick simple wipe can do . Man it was so , so much simpler , Thank you so much
Awesome tutorial,I have built a 4x8 island top in Pine and I will definitely be using this method to finish it ,I was going to brush but not now ,you make it look so easy ,thank you so much ,,Doug
Have been going through the comments to find out the sanding process between coats. I noticed you have recently gone away from using 0000 wool. I agree with that move but are you using 400g or 600g now? Between which coats. Great video by the way, loved the info and straight to the point. Great value from this i had to subscribe
I appreciate you subscribing and for the compliment on the video. You are right that I have moved away from steel wool and into 400 or 600 grit. It really depends on the materials and how each previous coat went on. Another caveat that I can add is that when completely dry and before delivery to clients I am also using brown paper to give that final smoothness. It’s almost like using 2000 grit sand paper.
Hello Roger, this is a very good, no-nonsense, full of information video. I watched it multiple times and saved it in my reference videos. One question - if I have water based polyurethane can I use same method by substituting water for mineral spirits? In California it is tougher to find regular polyurethane these days. Thanks and looking forward to more content from you.
Thanks. I actually used rub on gloss poly on a Tenor Ukelele I had built. I do wish I had seen this first because a 2 part thinner to 1 part poly as the first two coats where the thinner mix helps level is a great idea
@@BayneCustomWoodworking the project took 7 weeks of about 3 to 4 hours a day 5 to 6 days a week to get to the apply finish stage, but it was entirely scratch built including cutting the thin strips that were glued up to form the top and back plus all the jigs and molds needed. But it has been so much fun that I have another Tenor Uke a bit over 1/3 built in the works plus I ordered a guitar kit from Stewmac. Actually the guitar kit will be a lot easier because a lot of work has been done by the supplier. Until this, the biggest project I completed was a 15 by 20 foot summer Cabana that took 800 hours to complete. The first Uke will have about 200 hours into it, but considering square feet of build it easily is the longest project ever for me. I think any one that has a bandsaw and a way to achieve thickness sanding plus a bit of patience can build a stringed instrument. The kits can save a large amount of time. Stewmac is great for quality I've heard but pretty pricey unless like me you buy a once in a blue moon sale. Maderas Barber in Spain seems to have nice kits at very reasonable prices but if you have the two tools I indicated you spend very little especially if you buy rough cut and plane with even a small electric hand planer which is what I used. It is actually a favorite tool and only cost $45 at Harbor Freight. My thickness sanding could be easier but it works and I use a 6 by 48 belt sander attached to my Shopsmith. The bending I achieved with steam. Matthias Wandel used a rice cooker, others use a wallpaper steamer. I used an electric skillet with lid plus I would thoroughly wet the side piece and use a steam iron on it too. It worked really well. What is really cool is whether guitar or Ukelele you have an instrument that with a soundboard made of Red Spruce or Cedar or Redwood as I used and an all solid wood construction that will rival a Martin or Santa Cruz or Taylor instrument that can cost easily $10,000 for probably in the neighborhood of $100 and the difference in sound between your solid top and a laminate top is like Am transistor pocket radio to top notch stereo system. I really would encourage anyone to give building a stringed instrument a go. It's too much fun and too much reward to let it pass if you have tools that are sufficient for the job at hand. Take care, Like your channel, glad UA-cam recommended it to me...
@@BayneCustomWoodworking thank you sir, I may try a lint free micro fibre on a coat , I'll let you know how it works , got a whole load of live edge wood this fall, I'm going to make some floating shelves and window ledges
Thank you for this fabulous video. I've always struggled with brushing on a finish and this information really resonates with me in solving my problems. I was wondering however, how many coats would you put onto a bamboo countertop? Given it's use, would you put on more? Thanks again for the great video!
James, I am glad you found this video and thank you for the kind words. While I have never worked with bamboo, I would think that 6 coats would be sufficient. As I recommend with any table I finish, I would let it let it dry for a good 72 hours after the last coat to make sure it’s cured fully before using it.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I just finished a test countertop for my bathroom using pine and I am over the top with just how well this works. Looks good! Feels great! Thanks again!
If using polyurethane. The 1st coat should be an oil to saturate into the wood and pop the grain structure. The second coat should be a seal coat of shellac @ a 2c mix. Then sand with 400-600 grit. The 3rd and successive coats should then be poly. Top with a paste wax!
@@BayneCustomWoodworking salute! Also, you might be able to lay down the oil and shellac in the morning. Then still fit in 2 coats of poly in the same day. Another also, you should be able to skip the thinner poly mix and go straight to the thicker coats.
So, have you ever added a stain to your mixture? Doing a wrought iron bench with wooden slats on the seat and a wood border on the back. Driving myself nuts with a brush that creates bubbles for a rough finish.
Please let your readers know that rags shouldn't just get ''thrown away'' They contain high fumes that can catch on fire as a person forgot and his garage burned down. I put my rags after use in a home made clothe line to dry complete before disposing of them.
This is outstanding! I plan on using this method to restore an antique drop leaf dining table. I made the mistake of putting walrus oil on one of the legs (just starting finishing ), but then I saw your video. I would like to know if you can use your method over the top of the walrus oil, or how do it get the table leg ready for your process? Thanks for the formula though!!!
Thank you for the compliment. While I am A huge fan of Walrus oil, I would remove the oil before applying my poly solution. Now I say that because I have never put it over oil before. I might recommend that you email Walrus oil and ask them as well.
Very good information. But adding a 2nd camera and editing the video together would really make your channel cool. Closeups camera shots for applications
Thank you for this video! I have always struggled with the streaks, bubbles, and tedious process in general. I want to try this on my current project. I don’t like the yellowing over time caused by regular polyurethane. Do you happen to know if this process will work just as well with water-based?
Oh, I just read through the comments and see that it is not possible to use water-based polyurethane with mineral spirits, but that water (instead of mineral spirits) would work to thin water-based poly. In my experience regular poly is more durable, but I’m using a white wash stain and really don’t want it to yellow over time.
My queries have been answered, I just would like to see the spray on process has I have some huge heavy entry doors and I don't want to take them off the protect them from the weather for the long haul.
Thank you! This was so easy to do when I finished a floating shelf last year. I used an oil-based finish like you did in the video but now, on another project, I might need to use water based poly - would the same thinning ratios apply here with water? 1 part water-based poly: 2 parts water for the first couple of coats and then flip the ratio for the final few?
Would have been more complete to have seen full process of in between prep with steel wool and cleaning before next coat. Close up shots help to see the true effect of your process and mix and results.😊
Between coats of poly, you lightly scuff the surface with #0000 steel wool. Working with the grain of the wood. Always begin with ends of the surface, about 3-4 inches. Then scuff the main surface. After that, wipe lightly with a waxed cheese cloth, then rub down with acetone. Now let's talk about making the wood more sexy! This is done before applying the polyurethane. 1st you rub in a wood oil, I like tung oil (nut allergy warning) and linseed oil. This makes the wood grain really pop! Then the following day I will apply a seal coat of shellac in a 2c mix. It can all be found at the hardware store, though I mix all my own stuff. After the seal coat it will raise the wood grain, so sand with 400-600 grit then clean as mentioned earlier. Obviously, blow dust off 1st! If you do the seal coat of shellac early in the morning, you should still be able to get 2 coats of poly on the same day. As soon as shellac dries it can be sanded, cleaned, and recoated. Also if you use the oil and shellac. This serves as those thin coats of initial polyurethane, so you can go right to the thicker mix
I followed the instructions to the lett and the results were absolutely fabulous. I now must refinish two table leaves in a similar fashion. How long can I keep the misture from the final four coats to be used on the leaves?
Thank you for the video. Followed your advise and My table top finish turned out much better. However, I see some patches are showing up dull. Is there a quick fix so that I can get an even shine?
Mohib I am glad it worked out for you. I am not sure why you would have dull spots unless they were sanded differently. Was this fresh wood at the start or was this a refinish project?
Brilliant! I will try this. Where did you get your little supports for the table top? Why did Minwax tell me just two days ago that they don't recommend ever thinning their poly?
Great video, thank you for this method, looks so much better than brushing. I have a table top that goes in almost a sun ray grain and then a frame of grain going around the perimeter, very hard to describe but it's difficult to follow the wood grain, when wiping on, does it have to be applied with the wood grain? Since there's no brush marks, I'm hoping it's not as important and tedious.
Thank you -- No its not an issue because the mineral spirits work as a leveling agent. Go with the grain as much as possible, but don't sweat it if you can't -- Have fun and enjoy
Hi. I used this technique to finish a table and it turned out beautifully. I used semi-gloss polyurethane but find it a bit too shiny and harsh. My question is, can I use this same technique using satin finish over the semi gloss, using the 2-1 ratio of 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part minwax and then following up with the 2 parts minwax to 1 part mineral spirits, or can I skip either the first or second mixture since the table has the minwax finish on already. After lightly sanding the existing semi-gloss finish with a fine grade sandpaper of course. I'm not sure if either mixture can be skipped. Your mixture is the best I've found for professional grade finishing. Thanks
I am glad you found this helpful and I appreciate the compliments at the end. There is no need to start over, just mix 1 part mineral spirits and 2 parts satin and apply 2 coats. That should take away the shine and not hurt anything.
Would this method work well with red oak? Will increasing the number of coats applied correspondingly darken the hue of the oak? I’m a complete novice and looking for the best approach at finishing a new raw wood banister. Thanks for posting such an excellent easy to follow video.
This is a clear finish so it won’t really darken the hue. It will enhance it however. More coats might protect it a bit more but won’t change the color. If you are looking to darken the hue a bit consider staining it with minwax red oak oil stain first. I did this on a red oak table and it looks great.
What a great video. Thank you for these very useful explanations. I just had 30 years old pine kitchen cabinets repainted with Farrow and Ball modern eggshell emulsion (water-based). And the kitchen worktops will follow. Should or could I use solvent-based marine polyurethane on them or would standard polyurethane be sufficient. The house is shared with tenants and worktops take a hard beating and need to be easy to clean.
Thank you for the appreciation. Honestly I think you need to talk to counter top professionals before preceding. I know the finish I use will always hold up on table tops. But counter tops take quite a beating. I have used straight floor poly on desktops for soft wood and it’s held up well. But again, counter tops take a beating on a daily basis.
Thank you so much for this demo. Does this mix work well over paint as well? Also is it possible with water based poly? I would prefer if the paint didn’t yellow. Thanks!
Because this is an oil base poly it will not work with water base. I have never put it over paint. Honestly when I need to protect paint I use a spray acrylic from lowes or home depot. I use this on all my grandchildrens toys that I make them when the finish is paint. The odor is quite harsh but after a couple of days it’s gone and some do their toys are years old and have held up well.
Thank you. I have only used grain filler or sanding sealer prior to staining. I have never seen the need to use it prior to applying poly but it doesn’t mean it can’t be used.
Hello...I like your concept and process! Makes sense to me. I think it also has a benefit on less dust pickup, as the finish dries quicker. Question: what level of sanding did you do before you applied the finish? Did you use a grain sealer, or something else to seal the pores. My walnut is somewhat porous? Thank You, Moby
Hi and thank you for the comments. Sanding depends on the application. For table tops go to 320 or better but for things like charcuterie boards, coaster, etc.. I only go to 120 grit. As for the grain sealer I usually only use that on stained items but I am sure it would apply to just poly as well. I just finish a number of items with Black Walnut, no stain, and they came out great
Great video. Question is that does mixing your own Wipe on Poly less expensive or more customizable than store bought Wipe on Poly? The reason u make your own
Amateur here.... Will this process work the same with Spar Urethane ? The utility table I'd use it on won't stay outside but I may need it outdoors for a few hours once in awhile. Thanks
I have never tried this with spar finish, but have moved to using teak oil for anything that will be outside. One or two coats depending on the brand and you are done.
Thanks for the great video. I have a piece of stained wood with sanding scratches in it. I was too aggressive with my 150 grit and the stain didn't help hide the scratches. Will this poly solution help to fill in my scratches?
Unfortunately poly will not fill scratches. I have had this happen where I didn’t see the scratches until after staining. Normally I would sand up to 180 grit and that eliminates most scratches left by higher grit.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Thanks so much for the fast reply. I just tried stepping up the grits, I went from 180 to 220 to 400. Maybe I shouldn't have skipped the 300 grit, because the scratches are a little better, but still there. What about wet-sanding? Can I do that on something that has oil stain? The stain is cured.
In my country (Cyprus) I cannot find minwax fast drying polyurethane... I can find two part clear polyurethane though... What do I do in that case to make wipe poly? Is it possible to use poly without hardener and mix with mineral spirit as the video?
Thank you. I have applied Polyurethane on a table with a brush and it has dried to quick and not laying down level. Looks uneven and some brush marks and streaks. I used the Minwax Polyurethane One Coat Quick Dry product in Clear Satin. I should have used a different product that allows more time to apply and time for brush marks to level out. I plan to sand down with 320 to get smooth and start again. When I use your method to reapply there will still be Polyurethane on it from previous coats so should I start with your 1st coat mixture or a 3rd coat mixture? Thank you for your time.
@@Smorefred If you have the possibility to sand it back to bare wood that would be better. But if not, then I would start with 3rd coat mixture using Minwax Clear Satin Oil-Based Polyurethane and mineral spirits.
Nice tips... I'm going to give this a try. I like that the extra thinned coats get to absorb into the wood and adhere better than the standard non-thinned poly. Tx!
@@csimet Thanks
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Question... I know you probably exclusively use oil based poly, but I wonder if the same can be done with Polycrylic by adding water to it in the same way... knowing I might have a bit more sanding between coats due to the possible grain raise it may cause with those first couple coats.
@csimet I understand you can add water but I would check with the manufacturer. To avoid the grain pop, After sanding you can water pop it first by gently spraying water on it, let it dray and resend it. Water popping works well
Haven't went back to a brush/foam brush since wipe on in a few seconds to a few minutes time saving no drips or brush marks thank you
I am right there with you on that. Cheers!
Mr Bayne, I'm an amateur sawdust generator and just started back into woodworking after not being in it for over 50 years (high school). Just building for fun, not commercially. But your tip on how to apply Polyurethane by thinning it and wiping has worked WONDERFUULY! No brush marks, beautiful finish and very easy. It takes more time and coats but the results are amazing. Thank you!
Welcome back! I appreciate you finding my post and for working the solution.
I use a staining sponge, And three twenty grit sandpaper, I like the way you thin down the polly thank you for sharing.
By for now ken
What I had always wanted to learn, excellent video, no one had ever explained it better, my eyes opened, I always left marks with the brushes, now I will test your teaching, thank you very much, I hope many will see this video. since it only has few subscribers, but you. he is a very good teacher
Excellent- I am glad this will help. Credit goes to an old shop teacher/Carpenter who taught me years ago
I'm about to try this tomorrow. It's been very frustrating learning woodworking and then to hit a wall at the finish. Literally!
Thanks for the informative video. I have been using a very similar technique for the last twenty-five years, also with excellent results. I start with a coat of gloss poly/thinner. If you add the second coat at around four hours, you don't have to sand. I start with three coats, then let it dry overnight. I lightly sand with 0000 Liberon steel wool then add another three coats of gloss poly/thinner. I let the project dry overnight, then lightly sand again. Finally, I add a topcoat of satin poly/thinner. I find I get better depth of clarity by just using the satin poly for the last coat.
Thank you for explaining your process. I will have to give this a try.
Thanks for sharing your technique. If I understand correctly you also always use poly + thinner and not straight poly. Am I right?
Also, will you please elaborate on the mixing ratios for poly + thinner? Or are they same as Roger's?
Thanks - learning a lot from these videos and comments from experienced people like you and Roger.
@@ashokmoghe8035 yes that is correct
@@ashokmoghe8035 You can cut the poly 50:50 with thinner (I like mineral spirits like Bayne does). You don’t have to change the ratio. The commercial wipe-on poly is just polyurethane diluted with thinner. I have also just brush coated with General Finishes Poly (undiluted) then rubbed it out fast to keep it from building up. That takes more skill, and you have to move fast. The bottom line is that poly is hard to keep from looking like you covered your masterpiece in plastic wrap if you don’t keep the layers very thin. Hope this helps.
I have been making my own linspeed and wiping varnishes for years but this regimen makes sense so I will follow your lead in the future. Thank you.
I hope it works out for you as it as for me.
Awesome video. I will definitely try your process on my next project. Thank you🤙🏾🤙🏾
@@wahinenuiloa Thank you ….Glad you found the video
Just finished a kitchen table with a brush and wish I had seen your video sooner. Definitely going to try your technique next time as I do have some brush strokes in my final coat. Appreciate you taking time to share your tips.
I am sure your table.looks beautiful but am glad you found the video for future use
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I couldn't stand it so I sanded down the table with 220 and used your technique and WOW...what a difference...EXACTLY what I was looking for. I don't think I'll ever pick up a brush again. Again thanks for taking time to share your experience with the rest of us.
@@timc8913 perfect and you are welcome. Thank you
Only on the third coat, our bar already looks amazing!! Thank you!!
Now this is the type of news I like to get. I am glad the process has worked out for you. Something that is not in the original post is that after the final coat has had time to dry, usually about 72 hours, I use a brown paper bag to lightly sand. It acts like 2000 grit sandpaper. give it a try
Your video is worth every minute, thanks for taking your time to explain everything, I’ve used water polyurethane on most of my projects just because of how hard it is to get a smooth finish with oil polyurethane.
You are very welcome. I am glad it helped
Finally. 🙌 Your suggestions have saved my project from h-e-double-hockey-sticks. 😭 I had actually made a wipe on poly (without realizing it) - but was using my very expensive, high quality finish brush to apply - and no matter what I did - my initially perfect finish would start to bubble (about 20 min after applying). I was stumped. I tried 4 different kinds of brushes. I tried the finish right out of the can, without thinning.. I tried everything... it was a nightmare! NOTHING produced a clean finish. I was taking all steps.. not missing a beat. So I went back to my thinned poly (using Varathane brand, which I'll likely never use again)... cut up an old cotton t-shirt... and wow... went on like a dream... and so far, it is drying bubble free - as well as brush mark free (wasn't having problems with brush marks, tho - just bubbling). I think I am finally done!!! Hallelujah :)
I am glad you found the post and the process was able to help you safe the project. Nothing like an old cotton t-shirt to save the day.
This video changed my life with using poly. Thanks a lot!
I am glad it help
In spite of the video edits being faffed up, that's not the point of this video (or channel) and I'm liking your explanations and methods. I'm brand new to polyurethane and I'm practicing on a couple pine slabs. Pretty excited to keep learning more and getting better at it!
great video, Im finishing a 8' R/C sail boat
Oh my goodness! I am so glad that I searched and found your channel! My daughters mistakenly wasted fingernail polish remover on my table!😢😢 I’ve successfully, due to this video, sanded, restained and added polyurethane to my table and it’s as good as new- thanks to you!!😅😅😊
YIKES! Having children and grandchildren I understand how these things happen. This is the type of success story I like to start the week with! I am glad it worked out for you.
Exactly in the same situation. I accidentally spilled nail polish remover on our new table and ruined the finish. I have hope now. What stain did you use? Thanks.
I’ve loved Minwax’s wipe on poly, I’ve used it exclusively for a decade. I always suspected it was merely a thinned version of their usual oil based poly. You’ve given a good recipe for a make your own version. Definitely cheaper than buying a wipe on poly.
I hope it works well for you as it has me.
Thank you! I live in Mexico and haven't been able to find Wipe on poly so you saved my life!
I am glad I was able to help. Good luck
Thanks for sharing your knowledge and experience. Best wishes!
You are welcome and thank you
Awesome video thanks! FYI minwax tech support recommends only 100% Spirts not the odorless kind. according to them it could make it more foggy. or affect clarity.
Thank you. I have never seen a cloudy or foggy look in 20 years. Now they do make another kind that is milky as you pour it. I would never use that. Thanks for the information
Thank you very much for your time Sr, you have a very generous heart, teaching us
How to do things right, much appreciated, I have two dressers to finish, and I did not know what to decide, Water base or oil finish, my decision is to finish the drawers water base, the rest I will follow your videos to the letter, God Bless you always, best regards form Mexico
Thank you for the kind words. Please send me pictures when you are finished
It would have been nice to see a close-up of the surfaces. Thanks for the video!
Hello Roger. I was attempting my first stain project and was having difficulty applying a clean poly clear until I found this video. THANK YOU for saving my sanity! Beautiful solution for me. THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU
I love to hear success stories. I appreciate you sharing and glad this helped make you successful
Thank you so much for taking the time to do a detailed video that thoroughly covers this finishing method. You have made a believer out of me. I will soon be trying this method on a table I am currently building for my boat.
Brian
Thank you for the kind words. please let me know how your table comes out
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I have had to alter the protocol a bit. My table had a cedar coloured stain (to match my boat) and the rag method began to lift the stain (probably due to the high solvent content). So I'm going the give the stain another day to dry and then brush the first sealer coat. Once that coat covers the stain, I can return to the rag method.
I have had to let the stain dry for about 72 hours to make sure it doesn’t lift too much stain off. That way I am certain it’s completely dry
Great explanation with right amount of details, just what I need at the moment. Thanks a ton sir.
Thank you. I am glad you found it.
Excellent explanation! Thank you for sharing your technique.
Thank you and you are welcome
Sir; Thanks. will try this technique. Had to strip three time. Used Tung Oil Finish which cured very rough. First attempt was with Poly which developed bibbles. redoing my Coffee Table that we bought 25 years ago from Ethan Allen.
Binoy I am glad you found the post and hope you a able to use it to complete your project. Just make sure all the old finish is removed before applying.
I've found that brush-on poly (uncut) wiped on with printer paper works great for guitars, but spray lacquer is faster and easier.
outstanding soon as the rain stops here I AM ON THIS...
Super. Let me know it works for you. Dries pretty fast
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I got rain for like 6 days
@@knsbbq1951 YIKES
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Project complete worked great. Thank you for your help
@@knsbbq1951 now that is a great way to start the day
I like your technique excellent information thank you for sharing, God bless by for now, Ken
Thank you. I am glad it help. God bless you as well
Thank you for the information. I really appreciate it.
You are very welcome- thanks for watching
Great video! I’ve been looking for a good wipe on Poly mix! I’ll be using this for sure!
Thank you. I greatly appreciate the reply
Thank you for sharing this with us. Very informative. I have been trying to decide the best finish for a black walnut “waterfall” table which is 18” on one end and 27” on the crotch end. I initially considered epoxy, but that would make many runs on the waterfall end. Also, I’m leaving the bark on the live edge, albeit after sanding about 1/2 off so it doesn’t catch on pants legs, etc. This method should allow me to use this on the edges so it can “soak” in providing a smooth finish. Again, many thanks!!
I am glad you found it.. I look forward to seeing the finish product. Thank you for following
TY , Gonna give this a chance ! Be well in '21
Nice video and process. One thing I would add is to mix the satin poly thoroughly before measuring it out because non-gloss sheens contain silica based flatterers that settle to the bottom. It will work fine without shaking, but you’ll get more glossy finish from a fresh can, and more flat finish from the bottom of the can if it’s not shaken well.
I’ve been using gloss for all but the last layer or 2, then a gel poly matte topcoat if I want a matte finish (tip from Flexner on Finishing). I like the look of this, but I’ll try satin the way you describe to see if I like the results as well.
I like starting with 2 thinner wash coats like you describe as well. I get good results starting with a coarser 120 grit and then applying the 1st wash coat. Then the pores are very open and the thin wash coat of poly can soak in very well. Then I do the fine sanding after the first wash coat is cured, and apply the 2nd wash coat. At this point the wood is sanded to a level where most people start the 1st coat. Subsequent costs only get a light sanding with white scotchbrite or similar to remove dust nibs.
The 3rd and later coats I’ve been using a 50/50 poly/spirits mix. I’ll try your heavier ratio as well as it could save me some steps. Thanks again.
Finally, I like using spar varnish if I want a bit of a darker look, such as when finishing walnut. The use of more tung & phenolic resins gives it more of a dark amber look. More of the Waterlox original look (my theory is that their wiping varnish is just a variation of thinned spar varnish). I just use inexpensive brands from the big box stores like minwax or Rust-Oleum Marine Spar Varnish because are just is good, inexpensive, and always in stock locally.
I appreciate the explanation of your process.
Very helpful, thank you
This is a game changer for me Thanks. I do wood signs and hate the sanding in between coats plus brush stokes that have to be careful of. ☝
Now this is the way to end my day. Thank you for the comment and I look forward to seeing a finished product. Do you have an instagram I can follow?
Thank you for all the wonderful information people should really listen to you.
Thank you and you are welcome
Just used this on a cedar table with semi gloss polyurethane only difference is I did 7 coats instead of 6. Will be using this technique from now on
Sweet, I love the look of cedar with a clear coat on it. Glad you found the process and that it works for you
I use three part polyurethane and one part mineral spirits and apply it with a foam brush and it turns out beautifully and with no bubbles.
Very nice
Great video----I am using your process to finish a raw wood table. Very clear instructions--Thank you!
Thank you
Great video. Simple process that I will definitely try.
Thank and please let me know your results
Oh , i only wish i found your video before I started to restore my dinning table . I did not know wipe on polyurethane a thing. it was a long 18 days of since I started the project . too many mistakes. too many brush bubbles , too many waves too many hours of sanding to correct the mistake. Too many brush cleaning. Too many hours wasted . 7 times i used brush to try to achieve what one quick simple wipe can do . Man it was so , so much simpler , Thank you so much
Jo, I am glad that you found the video and that it helped. I am sorry you had so much trouble with your restore.
Jo, I am glad that you found the video and that it helped. I am sorry you had so much trouble with your restore.
I like it makes alot of sense.
Thank you
Thanks I going to try it on some tables! Excellent workmanship!👍
Thank you…please let me know how you make out.
Very informative. Thank you for the information.
Thank you
This is absolutely amazing, thank you for sharing this priceless game changer gem!!
Thank you -- let me know how it works out for you
Awesome tutorial,I have built a 4x8 island top in Pine and I will definitely be using this method to finish it ,I was going to brush but not now ,you make it look so easy ,thank you so much ,,Doug
Thank you. I am thrilled this old process has helped so many people. Have a blast and I want to see pictures.
This takes some time but is well worth it.
Great video. I learned a lot to pass it on to my wife
Thank you
First time wipping Poly, I have seen half dozen videos. I am going with your technique.
Thanks - clear explanations.
Exalent demo.
Thank you
Thank you!
You're welcome
This is a great video and so glad I found it. I think turning off the autofocus on your camera might keep the image from throbbing
Thank you
Have been going through the comments to find out the sanding process between coats. I noticed you have recently gone away from using 0000 wool. I agree with that move but are you using 400g or 600g now? Between which coats. Great video by the way, loved the info and straight to the point. Great value from this i had to subscribe
I appreciate you subscribing and for the compliment on the video. You are right that I have moved away from steel wool and into 400 or 600 grit. It really depends on the materials and how each previous coat went on. Another caveat that I can add is that when completely dry and before delivery to clients I am also using brown paper to give that final smoothness. It’s almost like using 2000 grit sand paper.
Hello Roger, this is a very good, no-nonsense, full of information video. I watched it multiple times and saved it in my reference videos.
One question - if I have water based polyurethane can I use same method by substituting water for mineral spirits? In California it is tougher to find regular polyurethane these days.
Thanks and looking forward to more content from you.
I understand there is a process for thinning water based poly but you have to contact the mfg for the information- sorry
Thanks.
I actually used rub on gloss poly on a Tenor Ukelele I had built. I do wish I had seen this first because a 2 part thinner to 1 part poly as the first two coats where the thinner mix helps level is a great idea
Thank you. That sounds like a wonderful and challenging project. Thanks for subscribing
@@BayneCustomWoodworking the project took 7 weeks of about 3 to 4 hours a day 5 to 6 days a week to get to the apply finish stage, but it was entirely scratch built including cutting the thin strips that were glued up to form the top and back plus all the jigs and molds needed.
But it has been so much fun that I have another Tenor Uke a bit over 1/3 built in the works plus I ordered a guitar kit from Stewmac. Actually the guitar kit will be a lot easier because a lot of work has been done by the supplier.
Until this, the biggest project I completed was a 15 by 20 foot summer Cabana that took 800 hours to complete. The first Uke will have about 200 hours into it, but considering square feet of build it easily is the longest project ever for me.
I think any one that has a bandsaw and a way to achieve thickness sanding plus a bit of patience can build a stringed instrument. The kits can save a large amount of time. Stewmac is great for quality I've heard but pretty pricey unless like me you buy a once in a blue moon sale. Maderas Barber in Spain seems to have nice kits at very reasonable prices but if you have the two tools I indicated you spend very little especially if you buy rough cut and plane with even a small electric hand planer which is what I used. It is actually a favorite tool and only cost $45 at Harbor Freight. My thickness sanding could be easier but it works and I use a 6 by 48 belt sander attached to my Shopsmith.
The bending I achieved with steam. Matthias Wandel used a rice cooker, others use a wallpaper steamer. I used an electric skillet with lid plus I would thoroughly wet the side piece and use a steam iron on it too. It worked really well.
What is really cool is whether guitar or Ukelele you have an instrument that with a soundboard made of Red Spruce or Cedar or Redwood as I used and an all solid wood construction that will rival a Martin or Santa Cruz or Taylor instrument that can cost easily $10,000 for probably in the neighborhood of $100 and the difference in sound between your solid top and a laminate top is like Am transistor pocket radio to top notch stereo system.
I really would encourage anyone to give building a stringed instrument a go. It's too much fun and too much reward to let it pass if you have tools that are sufficient for the job at hand.
Take care,
Like your channel, glad UA-cam recommended it to me...
Great video Sir! Learned so much in so little time...Thanks You!
Thank you
Great video thanks you answered all my questions you explained it very well I will be using it on my fireplace mantels and bar top
Thank you Brian. I appreciate you finding it and for the kind words.
Great informative and ENTERTAINING
Thank you
Great advice thanks!!
You are welcome. Thanks
Great finish, you helped me sir to achieve perfection , I wonder if those micro fibre rags might work good ?
Dale I am glad this worked and helped you achieve your goal. Not should about the micro fiber, have always used cotton
@@BayneCustomWoodworking thank you sir, I may try a lint free micro fibre on a coat , I'll let you know how it works , got a whole load of live edge wood this fall, I'm going to make some floating shelves and window ledges
Excellent video!
Thank you
Excellent. Thank-You!
Thank you
THANKS!
Thank you for this fabulous video. I've always struggled with brushing on a finish and this information really resonates with me in solving my problems. I was wondering however, how many coats would you put onto a bamboo countertop? Given it's use, would you put on more? Thanks again for the great video!
James,
I am glad you found this video and thank you for the kind words. While I have never worked with bamboo, I would think that 6 coats would be sufficient. As I recommend with any table I finish, I would let it let it dry for a good 72 hours after the last coat to make sure it’s cured fully before using it.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking I just finished a test countertop for my bathroom using pine and I am over the top with just how well this works. Looks good! Feels great! Thanks again!
If using polyurethane. The 1st coat should be an oil to saturate into the wood and pop the grain structure. The second coat should be a seal coat of shellac @ a 2c mix. Then sand with 400-600 grit. The 3rd and successive coats should then be poly. Top with a paste wax!
Thanks for the comments
@@BayneCustomWoodworking salute! Also, you might be able to lay down the oil and shellac in the morning. Then still fit in 2 coats of poly in the same day. Another also, you should be able to skip the thinner poly mix and go straight to the thicker coats.
So, have you ever added a stain to your mixture? Doing a wrought iron bench with wooden slats on the seat and a wood border on the back. Driving myself nuts with a brush that creates bubbles for a rough finish.
I have not. I feel your pain with the bubbles. I would love to see the end product
Amazing, thank you!
You are welcome
Nice tips to know about how n why of mixtures. TY from Corpus Christi,Tx. ‘City by the Bay’ w/ the most picturesque sky n shore line entire State.
Thank you. I am glad it helps
Please let your readers know that rags shouldn't just get ''thrown away'' They contain high fumes that can catch on fire as a person forgot and his garage burned down. I put my rags after use in a home made clothe line to dry complete before disposing of them.
This is outstanding! I plan on using this method to restore an antique drop leaf dining table. I made the mistake of putting walrus oil on one of the legs (just starting finishing ), but then I saw your video. I would like to know if you can use your method over the top of the walrus oil, or how do it get the table leg ready for your process? Thanks for the formula though!!!
Thank you for the compliment. While I am A huge fan of Walrus oil, I would remove the oil before applying my poly solution. Now I say that because I have never put it over oil before. I might recommend that you email Walrus oil and ask them as well.
This is awesome! Thank you so much!
I am glad you found it helpful
Very good information.
But adding a 2nd camera and editing the video together would really make your channel cool.
Closeups camera shots for applications
Thank you.
Thank you for this video! I have always struggled with the streaks, bubbles, and tedious process in general. I want to try this on my current project.
I don’t like the yellowing over time caused by regular polyurethane. Do you happen to know if this process will work just as well with water-based?
Oh, I just read through the comments and see that it is not possible to use water-based polyurethane with mineral spirits, but that water (instead of mineral spirits) would work to thin water-based poly. In my experience regular poly is more durable, but I’m using a white wash stain and really don’t want it to yellow over time.
Guess ya can put on as many coats as ya want tii ya reach you satisfication,Time consuming but easy.!!!!
My queries have been answered, I just would like to see the spray on process has I have some huge heavy entry doors and I don't want to take them off the protect them from the weather for the long haul.
Thank you! This was so easy to do when I finished a floating shelf last year. I used an oil-based finish like you did in the video but now, on another project, I might need to use water based poly - would the same thinning ratios apply here with water? 1 part water-based poly: 2 parts water for the first couple of coats and then flip the ratio for the final few?
I am.glad the process helped on your shelf but I have never used the process on water based.
Solid!
Thank you
This is a great video. There is a bit of overlap of audio between a couple of scenes, as you know. Does not interfere at all really.
Would have been more complete to have seen full process of in between prep with steel wool and cleaning before next coat. Close up shots help to see the true effect of your process and mix and results.😊
True
@@ccccen p
As a rookie was thinking the same thing myself
Yep!
Between coats of poly, you lightly scuff the surface with #0000 steel wool. Working with the grain of the wood. Always begin with ends of the surface, about 3-4 inches. Then scuff the main surface. After that, wipe lightly with a waxed cheese cloth, then rub down with acetone.
Now let's talk about making the wood more sexy! This is done before applying the polyurethane. 1st you rub in a wood oil, I like tung oil (nut allergy warning) and linseed oil. This makes the wood grain really pop! Then the following day I will apply a seal coat of shellac in a 2c mix. It can all be found at the hardware store, though I mix all my own stuff. After the seal coat it will raise the wood grain, so sand with 400-600 grit then clean as mentioned earlier. Obviously, blow dust off 1st! If you do the seal coat of shellac early in the morning, you should still be able to get 2 coats of poly on the same day. As soon as shellac dries it can be sanded, cleaned, and recoated.
Also if you use the oil and shellac. This serves as those thin coats of initial polyurethane, so you can go right to the thicker mix
I followed the instructions to the lett and the results were absolutely fabulous. I now must refinish two table leaves in a similar fashion. How long can I keep the misture from the final four coats to be used on the leaves?
I find that after a couple of days the final mixture thickens too much to use.
Thank you for the video. Followed your advise and My table top finish turned out much better. However, I see some patches are showing up dull. Is there a quick fix so that I can get an even shine?
Mohib
I am glad it worked out for you. I am not sure why you would have dull spots unless they were sanded differently. Was this fresh wood at the start or was this a refinish project?
do you change your rag in between mixtures?
Yes I do
Brilliant! I will try this. Where did you get your little supports for the table top? Why did Minwax tell me just two days ago that they don't recommend ever thinning their poly?
The painter tips I get at Lowes, but Amazon has them as well. In 30 years of doing this with Minwax oil based poly I have never had any issues.
Nice job new subscriber in this channel
Great video, thank you for this method, looks so much better than brushing. I have a table top that goes in almost a sun ray grain and then a frame of grain going around the perimeter, very hard to describe but it's difficult to follow the wood grain, when wiping on, does it have to be applied with the wood grain? Since there's no brush marks, I'm hoping it's not as important and tedious.
Thank you -- No its not an issue because the mineral spirits work as a leveling agent. Go with the grain as much as possible, but don't sweat it if you can't -- Have fun and enjoy
@@BayneCustomWoodworking
Thank you
Hi. I used this technique to finish a table and it turned out beautifully. I used semi-gloss polyurethane but find it a bit too shiny and harsh. My question is, can I use this same technique using satin finish over the semi gloss, using the 2-1 ratio of 2 parts mineral spirits to 1 part minwax and then following up with the 2 parts minwax to 1 part mineral spirits, or can I skip either the first or second mixture since the table has the minwax finish on already. After lightly sanding the existing semi-gloss finish with a fine grade sandpaper of course. I'm not sure if either mixture can be skipped. Your mixture is the best I've found for professional grade finishing. Thanks
I am glad you found this helpful and I appreciate the compliments at the end. There is no need to start over, just mix 1 part mineral spirits and 2 parts satin and apply 2 coats. That should take away the shine and not hurt anything.
Would this method work well with red oak? Will increasing the number of coats applied correspondingly darken the hue of the oak? I’m a complete novice and looking for the best approach at finishing a new raw wood banister. Thanks for posting such an excellent easy to follow video.
This is a clear finish so it won’t really darken the hue. It will enhance it however. More coats might protect it a bit more but won’t change the color. If you are looking to darken the hue a bit consider staining it with minwax red oak oil stain first. I did this on a red oak table and it looks great.
I will definitely use your method and mix on my table. Thanks! BTW where did you find the metal leg pieces on the wood tables you made?
Thank you , let me know how it works out for you. I buy my legs at hairpinlegs.com
What a great video. Thank you for these very useful explanations. I just had 30 years old pine kitchen cabinets repainted with Farrow and Ball modern eggshell emulsion (water-based). And the kitchen worktops will follow. Should or could I use solvent-based marine polyurethane on them or would standard polyurethane be sufficient. The house is shared with tenants and worktops take a hard beating and need to be easy to clean.
Thank you for the appreciation. Honestly I think you need to talk to counter top professionals before preceding. I know the finish I use will always hold up on table tops. But counter tops take quite a beating. I have used straight floor poly on desktops for soft wood and it’s held up well. But again, counter tops take a beating on a daily basis.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Thank you and all the best.
Thank you so much for this demo. Does this mix work well over paint as well?
Also is it possible with water based poly? I would prefer if the paint didn’t yellow. Thanks!
Because this is an oil base poly it will not work with water base. I have never put it over paint. Honestly when I need to protect paint I use a spray acrylic from lowes or home depot. I use this on all my grandchildrens toys that I make them when the finish is paint. The odor is quite harsh but after a couple of days it’s gone and some do their toys are years old and have held up well.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Thank you for your quick response! Just nervous about top coating the paint. Haha, thanks again.
Great video. Can I also do the same process with oil modified poly??
Thank you…The only poly I use is oil based
What about course grain do you us a grain filler then wipe your finish on. Great video
Thank you. I have only used grain filler or sanding sealer prior to staining. I have never seen the need to use it prior to applying poly but it doesn’t mean it can’t be used.
Looks great. Would this process work on a painted surface on furniture???
You know, I have never tried that. I am sure it would because it works on stain. But I always use spray enamel over paint
Hello...I like your concept and process! Makes sense to me. I think it also has a benefit on less dust pickup, as the finish dries quicker.
Question: what level of sanding did you do before you applied the finish? Did you use a grain sealer, or something else to seal the pores. My walnut is somewhat porous? Thank You, Moby
Hi and thank you for the comments. Sanding depends on the application. For table tops go to 320 or better but for things like charcuterie boards, coaster, etc.. I only go to 120 grit. As for the grain sealer I usually only use that on stained items but I am sure it would apply to just poly as well. I just finish a number of items with Black Walnut, no stain, and they came out great
Nice video. Quick question, does the wood need a seal application before using this wipe on ?
Thank you. No it does not.
Great video. Question is that does mixing your own Wipe on Poly less expensive or more customizable than store bought Wipe on Poly? The reason u make your own
Yes and I control the mix.
Amateur here.... Will this process work the same with Spar Urethane ? The utility table I'd use it on won't stay outside but I may need it outdoors for a few hours once in awhile. Thanks
I have never tried this with spar finish, but have moved to using teak oil for anything that will be outside. One or two coats depending on the brand and you are done.
Thanks for the great video. I have a piece of stained wood with sanding scratches in it. I was too aggressive with my 150 grit and the stain didn't help hide the scratches. Will this poly solution help to fill in my scratches?
Unfortunately poly will not fill scratches. I have had this happen where I didn’t see the scratches until after staining. Normally I would sand up to 180 grit and that eliminates most scratches left by higher grit.
@@BayneCustomWoodworking Thanks so much for the fast reply. I just tried stepping up the grits, I went from 180 to 220 to 400. Maybe I shouldn't have skipped the 300 grit, because the scratches are a little better, but still there. What about wet-sanding? Can I do that on something that has oil stain? The stain is cured.
In my country (Cyprus) I cannot find minwax fast drying polyurethane... I can find two part clear polyurethane though... What do I do in that case to make wipe poly? Is it possible to use poly without hardener and mix with mineral spirit as the video?
What brand of poly can you purchase. I only use minwax because I prefer it. Any oil based poly would work
Excellent
Thank you
Thank you. I have applied Polyurethane on a table with a brush and it has dried to quick and not laying down level. Looks uneven and some brush marks and streaks. I used the Minwax Polyurethane One Coat Quick Dry product in Clear Satin. I should have used a different product that allows more time to apply and time for brush marks to level out. I plan to sand down with 320 to get smooth and start again. When I use your method to reapply there will still be Polyurethane on it from previous coats so should I start with your 1st coat mixture or a 3rd coat mixture? Thank you for your time.
@@Smorefred If you have the possibility to sand it back to bare wood that would be better. But if not, then I would start with 3rd coat mixture using Minwax Clear Satin Oil-Based Polyurethane and mineral spirits.