I adore the historical and bibliographic portions of your videos. As a designer I commonly see technique without historical context. You most definitely do not fall into this trap and it brings your videos to the next level for me.
Thank you for this and all of your tutorials. I have learned SO much from you and am extremely grateful for the time you put into making these videos. Once you settle on a method for preparing and coating bookcloth (11:00), it would be very helpful to have a tutorial on it. It's been difficult to find online information about cloth treatments for covering purposes as well as DIY bookcloth methods other than Heat n Bond! Thanks again.
The sewn board project is brilliant. It’s easy, fun and rewarding. I look forward to using this technique more in the future. Thanks for the detailed informative instructions.
Dear Das, Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial, I managed to create an A5 size sewn board binded book with the soft spine covering with spine stiffener. Besides some rough edges and messy gluey fingers, the book opens flat and beautifully. 😄
I think this is the 4th time I've watched this video! I'm a total beginner and now I'm preparing for my 3rd attempt at making this book (after each time I watch it again and end up learning something new). Thanks for sharing this!
I love this technique! I'm working on my fourth one since watching this series. I also love your tutorials, they are so clear and easy to follow. My bookbinding has improved so much since I found your channel, though I have a long way to go yet. I too would love to add my vote to more information on making bookcloth. I'm not sure if I saw correctly, but it looked like the cloth you used on the first book did not have a paper backing, and it looked shiny, as if it were coated. I have been combing all sources I can find for alternative methods to glueing or pasting on a paper backing but have not been able to find anything. Any tips you may have would be greatly appreciated! Thank you again for all the time you put into these videos!
Glad you like the videos. Bookcloth doesn't have to have a paper backing. I usually associate paper backing with cheaply made cloth - but this is not always the case. The cloth in the video with the shiny back had methyl cellulose forced into the cloth and then it was sheeted on a piece of glass - dried on a piece of glass. It provides some protection to the cloth but not as much as I want. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for a quick reply, there is SO much to learn about all of this! I am eager to try the method you described, I really liked the way the cloth you used looked. Fingers crossed I can get it to work. Cheers - Lisette
I had just attended some bookbinding lessons last week but your videos on the French link and Coptic are utterly illuminating. It's the finer points of hole punching, assemblage and sewing techniques that dazzle me. Thank you!
Thanks a ton for this tutorial. Could you do a tutorial on different ways of making book cloth once you get comfortable about your approach? Many thanks !
I thought I'd have the cloth video done months ago but I keep finding new ideas to experiment with and am still not fully happy with the final products. Maybe towards the end of the year. All the best, Darryn
Brilliant! I'm so glad that I discovered your channel this weekend. I know that I'm going to improve my technique greatly due to your instruction. Thank-you for your generosity in sharing your skill with us.
Spectacular job on these, as always. I took a class with Karen on sewn board and drum leaf bindings in person last year. Still favorites of mine for their simple elegance. Plus they're fun to make. I think you'd get along quite well with her... she's a very clever, funny lady and your senses of humor would definitely be a good match. Hope you've been well, D. 🤗
Thanks Lisa. Great to hear you took a workshop with Karen. We're internet friends, that is if she is still talking to me after ripping of her material:) All the best, Darryn
Can't have too much paper! Just buy more each trip! I've got an idea for some fancy Japanese paper I bought years ago with no idea for it at the time, except it was too beautiful to pass up. All the best, Darryn
Great as always! I would be interested in seeing a tightback cover for this if you decide to spend more time on the sewn board binding. If not, I'm sure you'll do something else I'd enjoy anyway. Thanks again!
Hello, I subscribe to you UA-cam channel and your videos are amazing! Your generosity with your knowledge is incredible. Also the way they are made, the way you explain the steps of the projects, everything is wonderful! I was wondering if you bought or made that “portable little desk” that you place on top of your table with the smaller mat cuter. It would make my like so much easier if I had one. Would you mind sharing that? Maybe a tutorial if you made it yourself, or where to buy it would e great! Thank you!
Glad you like the videos. I have a video on how to make the bench hooks (search bench hook on my channel). I also sell them if you are in Australia. I think I have a couple in stock. I haven't made any since I got flooded in February and my store isn't offical open again. But I am still selling the occasional item.
Another excellent tutorial. Thank you. I recently watched the Karen Hamer video which is also very good. I like the trimming of the tabs to cover right to the end of the board - nice tip.
Absolutely fantastic series! I realized how far off I was with my glue up of the covering material -- good motivation to try again! I'm really interested in book cloth methods if that's the "current distraction" you hinted at...
@@DASBookbinding thank you. But my client wants me to bind the computer printouts out of box file and bind them with a hard cover on both sides. So it’s better if you can help me in this instance
Another fun binding to try. Is there any problem with the spine piece when you open this book to write in it? I actually hope you return to other coverings for the forwarded text blocks with laced on boards from your previous series. I was really looking forward to the false raised bands you mentioned.
The break away spine and how it effects how the book sits is something I'm not a fan of. I just force it flat which can put it a bit out of shape. The tightback is straight forward, but I'm finding ways to make it more complex:) All the best, DAS
Hi Darryn! As always, thank you so very much for all of the time and effort you put into all of your videos. I am curious as to your thoughts on using a thicker board for this book, rather than the cardstock. I loved the way this turned out when I made my book, but I sometimes like using the thicker board for a more substantial feel to the finished book. Any thoughts?
I love your videos, have been following along with my own projects for a few weeks now. I wonder if you have any videos or suggestions on how to get the hinges and joints right on a hardcover/cased-in book? how do you get that indentation to hold its shape? Mine all end up soft and flaccid.
Thanks! In regards the hinges, do you mean the groove between the spine shoulders and boards, the outer joint? I'll assume this is what you mean (which means I've guessed wrong for sure) you need adhesive in the area when casing in (I'll also assume a cased book). I usually use a kitting needle to force the cloth into the joint while it's being pressed the adhesive dries. Let me know if I misunderstood. Darryn
You're not wrong about there being a tonne of different ways of covering this structure. Some I've done- *Breakaway spine made of leather laminated with paper (no turn in, as the parchment one. Works well, can be worked around the link stitches to form bands *full leather breakaway spine with turn ins (as the whole cloth in Karen's video). Do not do this, it's far too bulky (or I'm not very good at paring, which is entirely possible) *A couple of millimetre binding variations. The way I did it was to glue the cloth strips to the paper off the book, then treat the whole piece as one unit and cover as whole cloth. -Work endbands on the breakaway spine piece in a manner reminiscent of a Gothic binding -What I think of as a "poor man's K118" structure. Sew as sewn boards, but the cardstock folios are only a few inches wide. Trim and round textblock, then attach 'full size' boards with squares using the folios as a board attachment (leave perimeter of folio unglued then tear off excess to prevent a step). Cover as per normal in boards book. For best results use shaped board inserts as per Frost 2003. I've done a hollow back half leather, I'll be trying a leather tight back at some point. -One I haven't had a chance to try yet is to sew a headband onto the textblock, but bring it onto the boards ala a Coptic or Byzantine binding to cover the exposed board edge. FWIW I'd be interested watching a video on your book cloth experiments. Its something I've been playing with but haven't gotten quite right yet.
Hi Ed. Some great ideas there! If I'm not totally sick of it in another week I'll experiment with some of them. Still not happy with cloth. I'm experimenting with an approach similar to paste paper but with cloth. A bit hit and miss so far. All the best, Darryn
120gsm cartridge paper. Nothing special - no brand name. Generic cartridge from the office store. It comes in big sheets which I cut down. Ciao, Darryn
The sewn board binding was the first binding style I completed, although I used a folio of card with a card insert for my cover but I shall try it again with board this time. A question also, do you plan on doing any medieval bindings such as the limp vellum or byzantine style binding?
Hi! Yep, the card insert is fine. And then you can control colour to make it more interesting. I've got a strong interest in the history of the book and have studied most of the major historical structures by reading about them. The more recent trend of making models has not been huge in Australia and workshops by experts in these are rare. I have been experimenting with these for awhile as best I can. But currently very unhappy with the materials, especially paper, that I'm using. I hope to get there, but it will be awhile. There are some relevant interesting Guild of Book Worker videos. Karen Hanmer has a great looking kit for a girdle book. All the best, Darryn
Hi Matt, After checking with Darryn about adding a link, I have a blog which might help you, not as polished as Darryn's in terms of videos. You can find it here: byzantinebinding.co.uk. Hope it is of help.
Thanks so much for this Darryn. Think I'm going to have a go at this structure once my current experiments with endpapers are over! What's the rationale behind everything being drummed on, rather than fully glued, do you think?
Very early - first millennium - books vary a lot. However, covering in these books is often done like this. The sewn board binding is supposed to reference these early books. I think I remember a later (8-9th century?) book described by Julia Miller where the papyrus cortonage "boards" are folded and sewn through the fold just like this and covered in leather adhered at the edges. The soft cushion effect is pleasing. Happy binding! DAS
Would it be okay to glue the pastedowns first, then the cover materials, on the cover? Or would it compromise something in the structure or longevity of the project? Just finished gluing my text block together today for this project!
@@DASBookbinding I've had a bit of issue cutting down the paste downs, so they were the ragged ones! My turn-ins were very pretty. I finished the project today! Great lesson and so happy I was able to follow it.
I guess so. A medieval book is rounded but not backed. But the boards would be added after the text is sewn and rounded. For the sewn board binding maybe try getting the rounding with a dry spine and then glue the spine? Maybe less likely to loose the round. Good luck! Darryn
Hi Darryn, another question if I may, I mainly paint watercolour with 300 gsm cotton paper, do you think the sewn board method works for that? Many thanks!
Yes it will work well. You don't want much or any swell. Heavy paper like this, especially wc paper, won't give much swell. 300gsm you'd have to try hard to get some swell. If you're going to use it for working in maybe use a tight-back spine. The break away spine doesn't let the book sit flat on a surface unless it's a very soft material. Good luck! DAS
A lot of people do and for good reason - it's cheap if you can get offcuts, and there are lots of interesting patterns and textures. The papers don't generally go with the style of books I bind. I believe the adhesive is some form of methyl cellulose, so that is fine. The only real negative may be the quality of the paper, mainly if it is acidic and any additives in the glue. I believe they add anti-mould compounds. If long term stability (longer than say 30 years) is not a of concern then I think it's fine. Take care, DAS
I'm really interested in using this type of binding for sketchbooks so no pages of art paper are lost to the cover gluing! Does it lay flat very easily?
If you have the break away spine, using a softer material it pushes flat fine. It is a really fast binding to maker specially with the drumming on. So best bet is to make one and see what you think. Have fun! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for the reply! Are there any other lay-flat bindings you would recommend I try, other than coptic stitch? Your channel has been quite a delightful rabbit hole to stumble upon; thank you so much for everything you've put so much effort into!
@@nauci I'm not a fan of the description "lay-flat bindings". There is no binding structure called this, but the internet seems to have decided there is, which is very confusing because, what is it. I guess it is meant to be a description of the properties of certain bindings. The goal of all good books is to open well. But there are lots of compromises in a binding. A coptic binding is weak and vulnerable but can open completely flat. The vulnerability of the spine is fixed by lining the spine, but then the book no longer opens completely flat. Add sewing supports to make it strong and rounding and backing so the book can be shelved and it lays even less flat. The sewn board binding is a compromise that opens well but the spine is lined and covered. The ultimate is a complex structure called the springback binding. This was invented because of the need of double entry accounting, and other stationery I guess, to open completely flat, while being robust enough so the tax man could carry it around on his horse collecting taxes. I have videos on this but it is an advanced structure. But that shouldn't stop you giving it a go! Good luck! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for such a comprehensive answer! I'm glad that I happened to have watched the springback and sewn board binding videos first (in my quest to watch all of the videos on your channel). Seems like I will go for sewn board for 140 lb watercolor paper sketchbooks, and possibly someday tackle a springback binding for Tomoe River paper journals.
Yes, it has a lining of paper but not over the sewing. I left the sewing exposed as a feature. A common decorative technique used by BBs that want to show off the sewing. All the best, DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks. I ended up using a new manilla folder. Currently I have started buying bits and pieces from Hewitts in the UK and Talas in New York.
I adore the historical and bibliographic portions of your videos. As a designer I commonly see technique without historical context. You most definitely do not fall into this trap and it brings your videos to the next level for me.
Happy 4th of July to everyone in the US! Stay safe. All the best, Darryn
Excellent. Thank you, really good instructions.
Such thorough, meticulous, and careful work. Much appreciate your tutorials. And clearly, cleanliness is next to Godliness in quality bookbinding!
Thank you for this and all of your tutorials. I have learned SO much from you and am extremely grateful for the time you put into making these videos. Once you settle on a method for preparing and coating bookcloth (11:00), it would be very helpful to have a tutorial on it. It's been difficult to find online information about cloth treatments for covering purposes as well as DIY bookcloth methods other than Heat n Bond! Thanks again.
The sewn board project is brilliant. It’s easy, fun and rewarding. I look forward to using this technique more in the future. Thanks for the detailed informative instructions.
Dear Das, Thank you so much for this detailed tutorial, I managed to create an A5 size sewn board binded book with the soft spine covering with spine stiffener. Besides some rough edges and messy gluey fingers, the book opens flat and beautifully. 😄
What. Really inspires me is your work methods. Crisp and clean.
Work is so much more fun when you have a good work flow and progress happens quickly. All the best, Darryn
So beautifully done - thank you! I really appreciate your crediting of Karen Hanmer and the other binders who have contributed to your work.
She gives me a hard enough time for ripping off her work. I wouldn’t want to cross her - she’s mean when angry:)
I think this is the 4th time I've watched this video! I'm a total beginner and now I'm preparing for my 3rd attempt at making this book (after each time I watch it again and end up learning something new). Thanks for sharing this!
Happy binding! DAS
I love this technique! I'm working on my fourth one since watching this series. I also love your tutorials, they are so clear and easy to follow. My bookbinding has improved so much since I found your channel, though I have a long way to go yet. I too would love to add my vote to more information on making bookcloth. I'm not sure if I saw correctly, but it looked like the cloth you used on the first book did not have a paper backing, and it looked shiny, as if it were coated. I have been combing all sources I can find for alternative methods to glueing or pasting on a paper backing but have not been able to find anything. Any tips you may have would be greatly appreciated! Thank you again for all the time you put into these videos!
Glad you like the videos. Bookcloth doesn't have to have a paper backing. I usually associate paper backing with cheaply made cloth - but this is not always the case. The cloth in the video with the shiny back had methyl cellulose forced into the cloth and then it was sheeted on a piece of glass - dried on a piece of glass. It provides some protection to the cloth but not as much as I want. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding Thanks for a quick reply, there is SO much to learn about all of this! I am eager to try the method you described, I really liked the way the cloth you used looked. Fingers crossed I can get it to work. Cheers - Lisette
Fascinating to watch how many ways you could do the broke away spine and the covering. And such neat finish! Bravo!!!
Glad you enjoyed it! Darryn
Some great tips. I’ve got much better results following your method. Thank you
I had just attended some bookbinding lessons last week but your videos on the French link and Coptic are utterly illuminating. It's the finer points of hole punching, assemblage and sewing techniques that dazzle me. Thank you!
Good to know lessons are still happening somewhere! DAS
Thanks a ton for this tutorial. Could you do a tutorial on different ways of making book cloth once you get comfortable about your approach? Many thanks !
I thought I'd have the cloth video done months ago but I keep finding new ideas to experiment with and am still not fully happy with the final products. Maybe towards the end of the year. All the best, Darryn
@@DASBookbinding I'm really looking forward to that video!
Thank you very much for the useful demonstration and the additional information and links below! I really appreciate your work.
You're welcome. This a great structure for expressing your creativity. My goal was just to give a starting point. Have fun! Darryn
You make it look so easy
After a few goes you'll find it easy too! Happy binding, DAS
Brilliant! I'm so glad that I discovered your channel this weekend. I know that I'm going to improve my technique greatly due to your instruction. Thank-you for your generosity in sharing your skill with us.
Happy binding! DAS
Spectacular job on these, as always. I took a class with Karen on sewn board and drum leaf bindings in person last year. Still favorites of mine for their simple elegance. Plus they're fun to make. I think you'd get along quite well with her... she's a very clever, funny lady and your senses of humor would definitely be a good match. Hope you've been well, D. 🤗
Thanks Lisa. Great to hear you took a workshop with Karen. We're internet friends, that is if she is still talking to me after ripping of her material:) All the best, Darryn
Thank you sooooooo much
Thank you so much for this video. It's fantastic.
You're very welcome! DAS
I want to try them all, they look so good. So many trips to the paper store...
Can't have too much paper! Just buy more each trip! I've got an idea for some fancy Japanese paper I bought years ago with no idea for it at the time, except it was too beautiful to pass up. All the best, Darryn
Great as always! I would be interested in seeing a tightback cover for this if you decide to spend more time on the sewn board binding. If not, I'm sure you'll do something else I'd enjoy anyway. Thanks again!
I'm sure I'll do a tightback. I've been adding some bling to the block for this one. All the best, DAS
Hello, I subscribe to you UA-cam channel and your videos are amazing! Your generosity with your knowledge is incredible. Also the way they are made, the way you explain the steps of the projects, everything is wonderful! I was wondering if you bought or made that “portable little desk” that you place on top of your table with the smaller mat cuter. It would make my like so much easier if I had one. Would you mind sharing that? Maybe a tutorial if you made it yourself, or where to buy it would e great! Thank you!
Glad you like the videos. I have a video on how to make the bench hooks (search bench hook on my channel). I also sell them if you are in Australia. I think I have a couple in stock. I haven't made any since I got flooded in February and my store isn't offical open again. But I am still selling the occasional item.
Another excellent tutorial. Thank you. I recently watched the Karen Hamer video which is also very good. I like the trimming of the tabs to cover right to the end of the board - nice tip.
Thanks. I warned Karen I had borrowed from her liberally and she muttered something about industrial espionage:) Take care, DAS
Absolutely fantastic series! I realized how far off I was with my glue up of the covering material -- good motivation to try again! I'm really interested in book cloth methods if that's the "current distraction" you hinted at...
Sorry no. Cloth has been a distraction for a couple of years and still working on it. Ciao, DAS
@@DASBookbinding No worries! I'm sure I'll enjoy whatever you put out, as well as learn a ton from it!
Thank you so much for these videos. I learned a lot and further want to know how to bind a lot of papers presently put in a box file
Binding loose pages has pros and cons. Unless I have to I prefer to keep them loose in a box. They are better preserved this way. Happy binding!
@@DASBookbinding thank you. But my client wants me to bind the computer printouts out of box file and bind them with a hard cover on both sides. So it’s better if you can help me in this instance
@@lalithabeysuriya1787 My video on double fan binding (aka Lumbeck binding)
@@DASBookbinding I will try to find that video. Thank you
@@DASBookbinding I checked the whole thread of your videos but nothing found under that heading. Please help me to find out the video
Como sempre, seu trabalho é incrível, Adorei. Obrigada por compartilhar.
Thanks! All the best, Darryn
I would love love love to know your method for making book cloth! I find it really hard to find pretty paper, but I have loads of pretty fabric!
Coming soon, sort of. It's not very complicated. DAS
Another fun binding to try. Is there any problem with the spine piece when you open this book to write in it?
I actually hope you return to other coverings for the forwarded text blocks with laced on boards from your previous series. I was really looking forward to the false raised bands you mentioned.
I was wondering the same thing, Sheila. That ties in to my interest in seeing how to execute a tightback covering for this binding.
The break away spine and how it effects how the book sits is something I'm not a fan of. I just force it flat which can put it a bit out of shape. The tightback is straight forward, but I'm finding ways to make it more complex:) All the best, DAS
Just wondering how your adventures with the methyl cellulose went because I am tempted to try it with some deionised water to strengthen the covers.
Hi Darryn! As always, thank you so very much for all of the time and effort you put into all of your videos. I am curious as to your thoughts on using a thicker board for this book, rather than the cardstock. I loved the way this turned out when I made my book, but I sometimes like using the thicker board for a more substantial feel to the finished book. Any thoughts?
Thanks! I think you could go to 20pt card okay. But I think it would be better to use a thicker board inside the folded card. All the best, Darryn
I love your videos, have been following along with my own projects for a few weeks now. I wonder if you have any videos or suggestions on how to get the hinges and joints right on a hardcover/cased-in book? how do you get that indentation to hold its shape? Mine all end up soft and flaccid.
Thanks! In regards the hinges, do you mean the groove between the spine shoulders and boards, the outer joint? I'll assume this is what you mean (which means I've guessed wrong for sure) you need adhesive in the area when casing in (I'll also assume a cased book). I usually use a kitting needle to force the cloth into the joint while it's being pressed the adhesive dries. Let me know if I misunderstood. Darryn
You're not wrong about there being a tonne of different ways of covering this structure. Some I've done-
*Breakaway spine made of leather laminated with paper (no turn in, as the parchment one. Works well, can be worked around the link stitches to form bands
*full leather breakaway spine with turn ins (as the whole cloth in Karen's video). Do not do this, it's far too bulky (or I'm not very good at paring, which is entirely possible)
*A couple of millimetre binding variations. The way I did it was to glue the cloth strips to the paper off the book, then treat the whole piece as one unit and cover as whole cloth.
-Work endbands on the breakaway spine piece in a manner reminiscent of a Gothic binding
-What I think of as a "poor man's K118" structure. Sew as sewn boards, but the cardstock folios are only a few inches wide. Trim and round textblock, then attach 'full size' boards with squares using the folios as a board attachment (leave perimeter of folio unglued then tear off excess to prevent a step). Cover as per normal in boards book. For best results use shaped board inserts as per Frost 2003. I've done a hollow back half leather, I'll be trying a leather tight back at some point.
-One I haven't had a chance to try yet is to sew a headband onto the textblock, but bring it onto the boards ala a Coptic or Byzantine binding to cover the exposed board edge.
FWIW I'd be interested watching a video on your book cloth experiments. Its something I've been playing with but haven't gotten quite right yet.
Hi Ed. Some great ideas there! If I'm not totally sick of it in another week I'll experiment with some of them. Still not happy with cloth. I'm experimenting with an approach similar to paste paper but with cloth. A bit hit and miss so far. All the best, Darryn
Hi! Thank you for your amazing videos. What type of paper do you use for the pages?
120gsm cartridge paper. Nothing special - no brand name. Generic cartridge from the office store. It comes in big sheets which I cut down. Ciao, Darryn
The sewn board binding was the first binding style I completed, although I used a folio of card with a card insert for my cover but I shall try it again with board this time. A question also, do you plan on doing any medieval bindings such as the limp vellum or byzantine style binding?
Hi! Yep, the card insert is fine. And then you can control colour to make it more interesting. I've got a strong interest in the history of the book and have studied most of the major historical structures by reading about them. The more recent trend of making models has not been huge in Australia and workshops by experts in these are rare. I have been experimenting with these for awhile as best I can. But currently very unhappy with the materials, especially paper, that I'm using. I hope to get there, but it will be awhile. There are some relevant interesting Guild of Book Worker videos. Karen Hanmer has a great looking kit for a girdle book. All the best, Darryn
Hi Matt, After checking with Darryn about adding a link, I have a blog which might help you, not as polished as Darryn's in terms of videos. You can find it here: byzantinebinding.co.uk. Hope it is of help.
Thanks so much for this Darryn. Think I'm going to have a go at this structure once my current experiments with endpapers are over! What's the rationale behind everything being drummed on, rather than fully glued, do you think?
Very early - first millennium - books vary a lot. However, covering in these books is often done like this. The sewn board binding is supposed to reference these early books. I think I remember a later (8-9th century?) book described by Julia Miller where the papyrus cortonage "boards" are folded and sewn through the fold just like this and covered in leather adhered at the edges. The soft cushion effect is pleasing. Happy binding! DAS
Would it be okay to glue the pastedowns first, then the cover materials, on the cover? Or would it compromise something in the structure or longevity of the project? Just finished gluing my text block together today for this project!
It won't compromise anything except aesthetics. Normally the pastedown covers the turn-ins, which can be a bit ragged or not completely straight. DAS
@@DASBookbinding I've had a bit of issue cutting down the paste downs, so they were the ragged ones! My turn-ins were very pretty. I finished the project today! Great lesson and so happy I was able to follow it.
intéressant merci! peut on adapter cela avec un dos endossé? Interressant tha you. Is it possible to adapt this technic on a rounding bac edge?
I guess so. A medieval book is rounded but not backed. But the boards would be added after the text is sewn and rounded. For the sewn board binding maybe try getting the rounding with a dry spine and then glue the spine? Maybe less likely to loose the round. Good luck! Darryn
Hi Darryn, another question if I may, I mainly paint watercolour with 300 gsm cotton paper, do you think the sewn board method works for that? Many thanks!
Yes it will work well. You don't want much or any swell. Heavy paper like this, especially wc paper, won't give much swell. 300gsm you'd have to try hard to get some swell. If you're going to use it for working in maybe use a tight-back spine. The break away spine doesn't let the book sit flat on a surface unless it's a very soft material. Good luck! DAS
Hi Darryn, I was wondering, what do you think about using wallpaper instead of bookcloth?
Thank you!
A lot of people do and for good reason - it's cheap if you can get offcuts, and there are lots of interesting patterns and textures. The papers don't generally go with the style of books I bind. I believe the adhesive is some form of methyl cellulose, so that is fine. The only real negative may be the quality of the paper, mainly if it is acidic and any additives in the glue. I believe they add anti-mould compounds. If long term stability (longer than say 30 years) is not a of concern then I think it's fine. Take care, DAS
Good to know about the long term stability. Thank you for taking the time to respond.
Do you trim the edges of the text block without the 1mm board or you trim with the board pasted ?
With. No squares, everything nice and flat. DAS
@@DASBookbinding Thanks!
why is the filler paper only tack glued toward the back? won't it fall off eventually inside the cover?
is there anything wrong with using more glue on these partially covered elements?
👏👏👏👏👏
I'm really interested in using this type of binding for sketchbooks so no pages of art paper are lost to the cover gluing! Does it lay flat very easily?
If you have the break away spine, using a softer material it pushes flat fine. It is a really fast binding to maker specially with the drumming on. So best bet is to make one and see what you think. Have fun! DAS
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for the reply! Are there any other lay-flat bindings you would recommend I try, other than coptic stitch? Your channel has been quite a delightful rabbit hole to stumble upon; thank you so much for everything you've put so much effort into!
@@nauci I'm not a fan of the description "lay-flat bindings". There is no binding structure called this, but the internet seems to have decided there is, which is very confusing because, what is it. I guess it is meant to be a description of the properties of certain bindings. The goal of all good books is to open well. But there are lots of compromises in a binding. A coptic binding is weak and vulnerable but can open completely flat. The vulnerability of the spine is fixed by lining the spine, but then the book no longer opens completely flat. Add sewing supports to make it strong and rounding and backing so the book can be shelved and it lays even less flat. The sewn board binding is a compromise that opens well but the spine is lined and covered. The ultimate is a complex structure called the springback binding. This was invented because of the need of double entry accounting, and other stationery I guess, to open completely flat, while being robust enough so the tax man could carry it around on his horse collecting taxes. I have videos on this but it is an advanced structure. But that shouldn't stop you giving it a go! Good luck! Darryn
@@DASBookbinding thank you so much for such a comprehensive answer! I'm glad that I happened to have watched the springback and sewn board binding videos first (in my quest to watch all of the videos on your channel). Seems like I will go for sewn board for 140 lb watercolor paper sketchbooks, and possibly someday tackle a springback binding for Tomoe River paper journals.
The green book, did you end up putting a piece of Japanese rice paper to line the spine? The stitching is quite prevalent
Yes, it has a lining of paper but not over the sewing. I left the sewing exposed as a feature. A common decorative technique used by BBs that want to show off the sewing. All the best, DAS
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What's the charge of 1 book binding like these type?
Sorry, not for sale. Thanks for asking. DAS
How thick is the Manila Card. I am unable to find any details to make a purchase.
Not super important. Any card will do. This card is 10pt or 0.3mm (or 300um in some circles)
@@DASBookbinding Thanks. I ended up using a new manilla folder. Currently I have started buying bits and pieces from Hewitts in the UK and Talas in New York.