Watch as I spend hours building a transistorized radio kit! This video dives into the process of putting together a transistor regenerative receiver kit and the results.
Thanks RJ! Now that I've seen that the kit can and does work I went ahead and ordered on for my own amusement. I'll definitely watch out for those 'A-holes!'
I remember you saying that you weren't adding the RF/Buffer Amplifier circuit in the build,(the 2N2222 transistor and associated components), perhaps you could add those parts and see if the performance increases?? I'm sure that your viewers would appreciate knowing whether adding it will help or not and thus saving them time if it doesn't??
I could do that. I left it out as the instructions said to start without it as it sometimes is better without it. I have some close very strong Spanish stations near me the covers up a large section of the tunable range and I figure this would hurt me at this location. RJ
@@LynxElectronicsLab Perhaps a 10K pot to make the output of the RF/Buffer Amp variable like I have seen in many Regen Shortwave Radio designs. Or maybe since the RF/Buffer Amp input is dependent upon a, "Link", utilizing a "Switch",(instead of using the, "Link"), to bring it into play when needed? I poise the question because I am considering buying and building this radio, I do have one of the original Radio Shack P-Box version, but it's performance is rather poor partly due to the 2N5223 Transistor in the RF section,which I swapped for a 2N2222 and then a BC547, that did improve the performance.
Did that rainbow color dip switch come with your kit? I tried just now tried to find a source for it but can't find any at a reasonable price. I hope one comes with my kit.
Hi RJ, I don't have any radio knowledge. I am curious why the coil tap ranges were either low or high in the ranges except one tap. What would cause that and is it fixable? Thanks Buddy
Sorry for the delay, was on a little vacation with the wife to the keys. There are a number of factors that are likely the cause. On is I used different wire which has a larger diameter. This will have an effect on the induction value. I did this to allow me to solder the taps the coil easier since the wire provided is small and insulated. I also wound it on a wood dowel to allow it to be mounted and make it stable. It was intended to be wound on a battery and have the battery removed to create an air core coil. The wood has a slight difference between air and wood as a core. The last thing Is the variable capacitor provided in my kit measured much lower capacitance than called for so this would change the ranges also. Hope this explains it. To change the ranges all of these factors could be adjusted. RJ
My 3rd grader mind had to replay the "2 A-Holes comment", several times. You brought a smile to my face. 👍
I must have a '3rd grader' mind because I laughed too!
Glad I could entertain you some.
RJ
Thanks RJ! Now that I've seen that the kit can and does work I went ahead and ordered on for my own amusement. I'll definitely watch out for those 'A-holes!'
You do that!
RJ
I remember you saying that you weren't adding the RF/Buffer Amplifier circuit in the build,(the 2N2222 transistor and associated components), perhaps you could add those parts and see if the performance increases?? I'm sure that your viewers would appreciate knowing whether adding it will help or not and thus saving them time if it doesn't??
I could do that. I left it out as the instructions said to start without it as it sometimes is better without it. I have some close very strong Spanish stations near me the covers up a large section of the tunable range and I figure this would hurt me at this location.
RJ
@@LynxElectronicsLab Perhaps a 10K pot to make the output of the RF/Buffer Amp variable like I have seen in many Regen Shortwave Radio designs. Or maybe since the RF/Buffer Amp input is dependent upon a, "Link", utilizing a "Switch",(instead of using the, "Link"), to bring it into play when needed? I poise the question because I am considering buying and building this radio, I do have one of the original Radio Shack P-Box version, but it's performance is rather poor partly due to the 2N5223 Transistor in the RF section,which I swapped for a 2N2222 and then a BC547, that did improve the performance.
Did that rainbow color dip switch come with your kit? I tried just now tried to find a source for it but can't find any at a reasonable price. I hope one comes with my kit.
It came with it.
RJ
Hi RJ, I don't have any radio knowledge. I am curious why the coil tap ranges were either low or high in the ranges except one tap. What would cause that and is it fixable? Thanks Buddy
Sorry for the delay, was on a little vacation with the wife to the keys. There are a number of factors that are likely the cause. On is I used different wire which has a larger diameter. This will have an effect on the induction value. I did this to allow me to solder the taps the coil easier since the wire provided is small and insulated. I also wound it on a wood dowel to allow it to be mounted and make it stable. It was intended to be wound on a battery and have the battery removed to create an air core coil. The wood has a slight difference between air and wood as a core. The last thing Is the variable capacitor provided in my kit measured much lower capacitance than called for so this would change the ranges also.
Hope this explains it. To change the ranges all of these factors could be adjusted.
RJ