Відео

Yes, I’m shocked Rick. RJ

Yes, I was very shock, like you I thought it would hit 70c in 2 minutes and still be climbing. RJ

Yeah! The interface is so professional. LOL

Thanks for the input, I believe you are correct and why I am nicely warning my viewers on this possible threat. The cheap Chinese manufactures seem to just throw out specs. There is no way they do real testing of this stuff at the ratings they give them. I thought from the image it was much larger which I think it was easy to trick me because 150w needs a very large heatsink / fan. They had nothing in the images as a size reference. But the higher voltage and current from my old unit is helpful as is being cased. They do need to learn to clean flux off pcbs though! RJ

Check out Fridays video, I tested at 150 watts 😁

@@LynxElectronicsLab Thanks for the heads up. I will!

Hard to answer in a comment but keep an eye out for a video in the next day or so. I will give you a pointer or two on how my code reads from the meter. RJ

The video is online for you to review let me know if this helps or not. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab ok i got it - have to send it SCPI commands and it does not echo characters back but if you do SCPI stuff it does respond

@@larryenglish8900 Yes, SCPI is does not stream data. This is normal on bench equipment you send the request and it replies with the answer. Or you send a command with parameters to change a setting. Good Luck! RJ

Yeah I would have stayed longer if it was only me. But as it was I stayed well over an hour looking around. I could only get so much into a video. No but some cases very similar to them. RJ

First I have to ask if your problem is the Wi-Fi signal or the 433 MHz signal from the base station that is the issue? I have not opened a camera up to look at it. But as I found out it takes a signal from the base to wake the camera up so it will start putting out a Wi-Fi video feed. RJ

Thanks, It is very big and full of the greatest stuff for a geek like me! RJ

Thanks, I will make sure we test with and without to show the difference. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab That will be very interesting. Thanks!

Your welcome. RJ

I meant to say wires missing in the previous comment. Sorry

Any pic I have is a frame from the videos on the repair. But this might help : 1 - Look at page 2468B of your service manual. on the schematic locate A656 which in in the schematic as a dashed lined box 3/4 way down slightly to the left of center (next to the reversing switch). the top section is that block and shows the wires. the two middle ones are grounds. The left and right are for the different sides of the record and which is connected is based on the reversing switch. Scanning one way connects one side scanning the other way does the other side. Also this video might helps as he catches a shot of the wires on the block in it at time index 6:50. ua-cam.com/video/r1hM57F9MJY/v-deo.html Hope this helps. RJ

Thanks RIck! I will let them know. RJ

Thanks, I replied to it.

Thanks for the input but I had already completed it and used larger coax. It's working very well at this point. RJ

Thank! Welcome from India I am so glad you are here and enjoyed the video. RJ

Thanks for the great question, This is a question that I used to get asked a lot in the old days at Diylightanimation.com. I would have a few people build kits and say “it doesn’t work” and I would say turn up your heat and resolder the joints. They would say they’re all good. Once in a while I would have them send it to me and I would point out the joints were cold on video. I would then touch them up on camera and every single time the device would come to life. This is why at our conventions in the old days I always taught soldering classes to everyone. From basic to advanced smt work. The point is this, if you read “the experts on the internet” you will get a very wide range of temperatures to use. Many way too cold to get reliable solder joints in every case. Part of this comes from the fear of oxidizing the tip side, to the big one damaging parts side. I have seen magnitudes more damaged parts from people setting the iron too cold than from too hot. Seems wrong I know but just think of it this way. At any temperature that a person would reasonably solder at, almost any part can be damaged. So you are cooking parts to death at any soldering iron temp that is reasonable. So what is the difference between damaging a part and not? The other factor in the equation time. It takes time for heat to flow up a pin into the device enter the die interface and then do damage. So when your iron is too cold you will solder the joint but it will take much longer giving the heat time to get in and damage. Hotter tip solders much faster so you are off the part quick not giving the time for your heat to flow. This is why manufactor do not give just a temperature that is safe on the data sheet for soldering through hole items. They give a time at a given temperature. Also to give a reference that it’s not just crazy old RJ believes 360c is fine here is the guys at adafruit saying they recommend 370c learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-guide-excellent-soldering/preparation# So turn up the heat, stay on the joint Less time and if you keep everything clean, like me you will not kill parts and will never have cold joint issues. RJ

Thanks for the question, Yaesu recommends you format the card in the radio as I showed to prevent any issues with format. Your welcome. 73's RJ (K4ROB)

Thanks, Glad my video was useful to you. I enjoy mind I just shut it down as I was on 3903 with my rag chew group. Good luck and 73’s RJ (K4ROB)

Hello, Not sure I understand? It is 90 watts of available heating power. But it is temperature controlled so it only uses what is needed to get the item to the set temperature. It will work on multilayer pcbs. Let me know if I did not answer your question. RJ

Thanks, Ok, it could be the wiper I guess but man the feel so smooth I thought it may be a feature. I did think about drawing it out so I guess I will. I was just waiting to see if someone pointed me at a user manual or maybe had used one and could fill me in on it. Just one of those odd things I thought might be interesting take a look at for $5 😀 RJ

Thanks Rick, that video is being shot as we speak. RJ

Thanks, That’s what I thought also in the beginning of the video. But if you look close in the video showing the inside bottom only two post are wired up to anything. RJ

Thanks! Here is something I found useful along with the service manual. www.flippers.com/Seeburg-trblshoot.html go down to about page five, until you see the title "Jukebox Trouble Shooting" and check that out. These things are so complex in everything they do because they did everything analog with switches, solenoids and mechanical devices. It was before the days of digital electronics and transistors etc. Hope this helps you in someway. I spent many hours searching reading and looking at the schematics in the service manual to understand the little I figured out. Luckily it was enough to get it working. Be careful as it has it has voltages around 400V in it and can kill you if you are not using caution all the time. I recommend using an isolation transformer to power it for safety. Good Luck! RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Thank you. Got the manual yesterday in the mail.

Great! Have fun. RJ

So sorry to hear this. That does sound like a return as I cannot see this symptom being created by anything other than damage to the meter movement. Maybe someone else will chime in with an idea. Why would they package something so fragile so poorly? Mine came from amazon and was packed very well. RJ

Thanks!

Thanks, Yeah that’s always a challenge. It’s also hard to get the performance in the real world that you see in the ideal world LTspice lives in since we have parasitic L and C along with rf leakage. RJ

Thanks for the information, this unit seems to work well for me so far. RJ

Thanks for the pronunciation pointer. I will work on it. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab also, Aoyue is pronounced "A-U" (or a Biritsh " 'ey you", like in the Pink Floyd song). Some of the other names applied to these chinesium soldering stations have way too many consonants and defy translation by English speakers. And then there are the names of pharmaceutical drugs for which we may soon have to write a Dr Seuss-ian alphabet and dictionary that goes "On Beyond Zebra". (Which I pronounce zee-bruh but others pronounce to rhyme with Debra, and perhaps somebody even uses a Zed in there somehow! One wonders, how do such people pronounce the name of that little old rock band from Texas , ZZ Top? Zed Zed Top? 🤔😉)

Thanks for the question, I used a monitor I already had on my computer in the lab. ( ASUS model # VH242 ) It is connected hdmi to my computer as a third monitor but has a DVI port on it also. So I switch input to DVI when I want to display the radio. Haven’t had that issue with it. You might be able to put some clamp on ferrite cores on the dvi cable at the monitor end to kill the RF from getting out on the cable. I haven’t heard of this being a problem and having no experience with any newer monitors I can’t give a reference on a different one for you. Wish I could be more help to you on it. RJ

nice monitor! does it use ac power cord directly or a wall wart? also is your cable single link or dual link? thank you.

It’s 120v direct ac cord. RJ

The bright flash will likely be the filter caps charging so not an issue. The dim lit bulb tells you that you are drawing some current but not a short circuit. The use of a dim bulb is more of limiting current if something is wrong in the equipment which would cause excessive current to be drawn and blowing up stuff. To know if something is drawing too much current you need to use an amp meter or kilowatt unit now that you know there is not a dead short. Compare the reading to the units published specs to see how they compare. Hope that helps. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab It's drawing 42 watts. Not too bad.

@@Scottyman99 Glad to hear it! RJ

Thanks for the input, They will only make an audial sound when changing selection on the switch as they open or close no electrical noise. The same style relays exist in the amp on the low pass filters to select the correct lpf to match the frequency band you select. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab To be clear, I am speaking of electronic noise, not audible sound. Won't the relay coils add electronic noise, and/or electromagnetic noise, as long as they are energized?

Sorry, That’s what I was trying to say. No electrical noise but of course a click when you change settings. My amp/radio is full of these type relays. Think of it this way, since we are talking 12v dc the coils are either not energized and so no noise or energized with steady current so no noise. To create RF you need a changing signal of variable current to produce RF. Hope that makes sense. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Ahhh, yes, that makes good sense. I should have caught that myself. I was thinking of the Soft-Start AC/AC relay that I used for my DIY Isolation Transformer. That coil is AC. I imagine the AC voltage is just rectified within the relay, itself. Thank you.

No problem happy I could answer your question. RJ

73’s RJ (K4ROB)

Thanks for the questions, 1 - Yes it is in inches. 2 - It is a cad file only relevant to my paid for cad package. This is why I provided a clear screen capture @ 10:20 so everyone would have all the measurements. RJ

Thanks! RJ

Thank so very much. It is very hard to grow a small UA-cam channel so I appreciate the kind words and the views. RJ

Thanks for the explanation, I do find this to give a full picture of performance. RJ

Thanks, I might take a look at that at some point. RJ

Just some 22ga stranded wire off of one of my bulk spools. It isn’t critical as long as it’s small enough to fit and work with. The length is the size that matters. RJ

Thanks for the question, No it is only for rx audio. I think you might be talking about the part of the video where I was pointing out that it does not have any issues with RF when I transmit. RJ

They are made to work into the gigahertz. But they need to be built a little more precise than the one I made for hf frequencies. RJ

Thanks for the comment, I am sure they would not be suitable for this. But I think that is outside their intended purpose. It would be like trying to mow a 40 acre field with a push mower. Doesn't mean the push mower is no good it just is not intended to do that. On larger wires a good old 260 watt Weller G%N like a D550 would be the best (Tim the tool man Taylor mode HA HA HA HMM). That is what their target was. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Not true, I'm always in the hunt for a portable USB iron that can cut through 10awg wires. Having it portable means I can use it anywhere which is a HUGE bonus.

Thanks for the question, I am not familiar with it so I am afraid I can not make a comparison between them. Maybe one of my views has information on it and can chime in on this for us. RJ

Thanks, Glad you liked it! RJ

It is not an ad. But a review of something we paid for with our own money. An ad would have pointed you where to buy it and we would be paid or given something. RJ

Wife says she found it on Amazon. It is hs-01 Hope this helps. RJ

Yeah doesn’t seem right, But it’s all about watts not volts so with enough amps even low volts makes lots of heat. Think car battery, put a big wrench across the terminals and watch much less than 12 volts (do to the voltage drop under load I bet maybe 5 volts) melt it in seconds. All because of large current. This is powered by a 65 watt supply so it’s got enough current at the low volts to get it done. It still surprises me also. Thanks for the comment. RJ

USB C PD has variable voltages up to 48v this particular iron states that it works between 9 and 20 volts. You can actually buy a ‘USB C trigger board’ which will negotiate required voltage to utilise a charger as a power supply for projects

Correct👍 RJ

@@adamcarson1516 Ohh, I thought this was cordless, guess I missed that part. But I have a do have that is cordless and it achieves the 400+ deg temps with one Lion battery

Thanks for the input, The first segment was somewhat out of focus I did not catch it until too late while editing. The bench top view camera is a fixed focus cam with low depth of field focus. Works great for flat circuit boards ect. But when you have things of different height like boxes then flat objects if can be a challenge to keep focus dead on sometimes. Not a real ad as I just show stuff I buy for myself. I am not monetized. So when I say it seems to work well I really mean it. It does need a stand as the little junk one with it is all but useless in my opinion. Thanks for watching I will work to improve as I am still a new UA-camr. RJ

Thanks, I have BK-IN off to prevent it from transmitting while I demo this on youtube. In normal operation I have it on so the messages are transmitted. RJ

Thanks for the question, The last update was 2/29/2024 for the ftdx10. RJ