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Thanks! RJ

Yes the instructions for the Receiver will have lengths of wire to use as a guide in the instructions. It will be an easy and enjoyable few hour build to a functional receiver. RJ

Greetings, First let me say that the needle zero setting on the meter needle does not move large amounts. If you cannot zero the meter with it off and unplugged from power while standing straight up level. There is either a problem with the movement or, and your other comment leads me this way, your movement plastic has static charge. The plastic face can get charged be just rubbing a rag on it to clean it. This is key for you, if this happens the needle will move around by moving your hand around on the plastic. When this happens you can have trouble physically zeroing the movement as it is being attracted by the static. Try rubbing the plastic with a clothing dryer sheet to see if you can kill the static charge. Let me know how you make out. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Thank you. That worked perfectly on one but not the other. Both are basically untouched and I have studied your videos and will do so again and procede as you did on yours.

I think it is also thanks! Yeah sorry should have posted them on the link. Give me a few hours til I’m back at the lab and I will put links in the description of the video for you. I plan to provide the parts with the radio kit at this point. So anyone planning to built a kit don’t order parts as the will come with it. RJ

Thanks! RJ

Thanks! Can’t build you one, but I did put everything you need to know to build your own on the Dropbox link. RJ

Yes averaging would normally be used. That was what my comment that the average looks about right. RJ

I did reply, If you watch the video I did catch the current sense after I said it and there is a caption on screen correcting this during the video as I said it. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Thanks, while I did "watch" there was a lot of multitasking and more listening... it's funny I did look review to find what ferrite you called out, but very quickly went back to trying to track down how the yellow wire is tied into the coil and haven't found it's a CT for 240V which would be expected so still puzzled by that.

@@LynxElectronicsLab New discovery... the AC cable which came with my transformer has L and N crossed at the output! With a good UL cable L goes into the transformer on red and directly to the switch, so all good with a good power cable!! Think it may be worthwhile to check all my power cables!

@@lostmyhare WOW! RJ

Correct you would normally do averaging but the demo I was using did not have averaging. RJ

Ok, this is a lot to deal with in a simple comment. So let me start at the end. If you plug a lamp socket into the output of your isolation transformer it will be hot. The center pin in the bottom of the socket will also be hot. You see there is no neutral on the output of the transformer. This is why we use an isolation transformer. It is a 1:1 transformer that provides 120v ac that is not referenced to the input power from the wall. Think of 240 in the U.S. it is two hot legs that reference between each other and is 240v. The output of the transformer is 120v referenced to each other. A neutral is just referenced to earth ground. The hot swings positive and negative around it. So in my opinion you can’t really have the output wired backwards. On the input it is correct that the switch should be wired to interrupt the hot side. But remember that even when wired correctly that means when plugged in there is still a live circuit inside the chassis. Also the switch could be bad. So while I am not saying it’s ok. It is still not safe to work on devices believing you’re safe because the switch is off while the device is plugged in. As a note, for the majority of the U.S. power systems lifetime devices had non polarized plugs and so every time you plugged them in you had a 50/50 chance the switch was on the hot. If yours has the switch wired backwards and it concerns you I would absolutely recommend you swap it if you are comfortable doing so. As far as the hot and neutral connections to the input side of the transformer I do not believe which side they connects matters. So the switch has a correct side and should disconnect the hot. The thing that would worry me more on these is if the ground on the input was not connected to the chassis. This could be deadly to a user that is not working inside the device while plugged in and just using it in normal use. If that is true you are just one chaffed wire or bad connection away from a very bad outcome I do not have mine handy at the moment to look at to see if it the same. I hope this is of some help. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab Thanks for the response. My "backwards" was really in reference to which of the terminals in the US would be neutral if we weren't isolated and since there is no "ground" on the secondary this is really a moot point in an isolated circuit. I've been studying this for a couple days and think I finally understand. Because the secondary side of the transformer is just a loop both of the power terminals are the same as everything is basically at the same potential as it cycles. So, connecting a DUT with its power switch is open, unlike an un-isolated circuit where one side is neutral the other hot, here both sides of the open switch, like the outlet terminals, are hot and at the same potential.... I think I got it, but the tying the ground pin to a termina or floating needs more research! Funny timing in thinking about all this as today I came across a Chinese power supply which had the same C14 wiring where in the US neutral goes to the switch and line to the rest of the circuit! In this case, with a standard US outlet, all this knowledge came into action and I would not have even noticed before inspecting this isolation transformer! And I think I'll switch the wires on the input jack just for the consistency of line being gated by the switch.

Rick, no plans at the moment but it could be used for any DC current monitoring up to 32v and 3.2 amps. So about 100 watts of power. RJ

Make sure you got the U.S. version of it and mine is running on 120V 60Hz. Not sure what mine says on the back as I am not there and it would be difficult to out of the shelf. I believe it did say 120v so I worry you have the non U.S. version if yours does not. RJ

Well I’m glad I can be educational for you. 😁 RJ

WOW!, Thanks! My little channel can use all the Subs and Likes it can get. RJ

No, actually I said I like peak mode and do not like that you cannot have it on and see your SWR. So I guess eight minutes wasn’t enough to explain it to you. Sorry you felt I wasted your time. RJ

@ Not at all.

Thanks Uni! I just watched your 2 hack video 10 minutes ago. Can’t waiting to see the final power supply video, that’s a real nice project and I really like what you have done with it. RJ

Sorry but I have never used one, so I do not know. Maybe a viewer who has one will comment and give you an answer. RJ

@LynxElectronicsLab thanks for the reply! The cheap thermometer still holds up?

@ Great to Hear!

@@LynxElectronicsLab it was a question, how does the FG 100 holding up, still working?

Sorry, misread your question. Yes mine is working perfect. RJ

Thanks!

Got a proto pcb on the way. Give me a couple weeks and we see if it was a good idea or not. RJ

Thanks, I just completed a proto pcb design and sent it off to pcbway. In a few weeks we will try building it to see how it goes. RJ

Hi Rick!, Was starting to wonder where you went. Hope you and the family are doing great. I imagine it's pretty cold this time of year in NJ. I’ll have to give that a look. Thanks for the tip! RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab I have been around just not my normal talkative self. Its a little be cold at the moment but come Monday and Tuesday only in the high teens before wind chill. I think the south has also been getting some strange weather. Take care Rick

Just saw this post. The way UA-cam studio works in normal mode it just shows new post you have not responded to. You have to go into each post to see new post in them once you reply so sometimes I do not catch new comments right away. Hope you guys stayed warm. North of us got record snow last night. RJ

Good point, thanks! RJ

Please read the previous reply to @originaqua a month ago on this video. He asked the same question. RJ

I would not play video games on it. Only expect solid 30 frames a second from it and they is some latency, enough I would not want play COD on it let’s put it that way. Good for viewing movies, UA-cam etc. RJ

Thanks for you input. RJ

Thanks! RJ

That is a great tip! RJ

I appreciate it! I'm glad you liked the stitching tool! RJ

Thanks for watching! RJ K4ROB 73’s

Interesting! I have not noticed this in my playing with them. I might need to test this out. RJ

Sounds like you got it nailed. I have a video comic out showing how I check the instruments in the lab using WWV. RJ

Excellent question, since my reference is 10mhz, I can be no more accurate than it is. But understanding we only need be within a few hertz’s. As I said in the video,I was being over sensitive on the adjustments as you would not be able to notice this error a hertz or three in the receiver. Using 40mhz is more to span the error out 4x than true accuracy. As far as true accuracy I rely on the calibration of the equipment. When it gets out of the time range like my spectrum analyzer I verify it from time to time to a standard. I have an upcoming video on checking the spectrum analyzer calibration you might find interesting. RJ

@@LynxElectronicsLab So your SDG1032x is hooked to a 10MHz reference. Excellent. I use a SDG2042x hooked up to a GPSDO. I have never used the frequency counter I use an HP 53131A instead but I really like the statics mode available on the SDG. Thank you for bringing it to my attention.

@@johnnorton6085 No Problem. Happy I was of help! RJ

You are very welcome! RJ

Thanks for the suggestion I had looked at it and found it seemed an inefficient method for someone needing to do a number of them so I wrote my own based on it. I have a video coming out in the next few days to show all this. RJ

Thanks! RJ

You’re more than welcome. I hope it does take care of the issue. I’m betting it will. RJ

Sure, a.co/d/5s5Blnr It’s an Amazon link. RJ

Thanks for your comments. Here’s a shocker, we are all bias including you. I do love my 710. I tried both and liked both, The size of the 710 for pota, the button layout for my fat fingers and since human ears cannot perceive the difference between the two based on the values from the Sherwood report. I went with the 710, also consider that at the time I purchased mine I paid $800 and the dx10 was $1499 at the same time it will be hard to justify the mistake I made on purchasing the 710. The dx10 is a more feature full radio but it was nothing I would miss. Enjoy the ftdx10’s 73’s. RJ

@ I have exceptional hearing and perhaps my discernment of the differences are noticeable even according to the Sherwood report. Not worth debating..enjoy your radio, wish you many contacts! 73’s

Sorry for the delay, For some reason your post was put in the held folder for some reason. UA-cam sometimes does this if the ai thinks there is something bad with it. I just found some a number of post in there. I am not sure to answer your question. I have never had my hands on a medial one. RJ

Thank you so much! RJ

Thank you Rick, You also. I do not know what happened to the site. I turned it over to be keep alive but I guess he changed his mind. RJ

Thanks for your thoughts. Funny you should mention this at this time. I just got an update and it no has the option to auto load the settings. He has done a great job improving the software. The only thing I see missing is it does not save the rotation setting. RJ

It would be a nice mod to add to it… take the voltage going into the meter and make a VCO that uses that voltage to set the pitch.

That would be nice. RJ

Agreed! RJ

Just think for a minute, how could a dealer in China buy an American made product, Amtech flux, and ship it there to China, then sell it at a profit back into America? Not likely.

I am sure you are correct. But often that’s not how it works. Often the American company has their product made in China and then have it shipped to USA. China will make more and sell it on the cheap. In this case it’s not real but it works ok for the cheap price I paid. RJ

Thanks for the input. RJ

Exactly! RJ