Very interesting and informative. Because I bought the Airfix class 31 like new from an over 80 years old store owner in Dorset for only 20 GBP plus shipment to Germany. A really wonderful diesel loco for their age.
Well I’ve had one since 1977 (blue type) it’s been loud for as long as I remember so after a little oiling and cleaning up she’s running sweeter than in years. Bogie was fragile though cracked it slightly but nothing major . Cheers for the good video and I still love the old girl.👍🏻
Lots learned from this. Never would have thought of using an ultrasonic cleaner! Really enjoyed watching this and listening to your commentary. Great video. Clint
Great video Mike and some good tips during the whole process of servicing proceedure. These old Aifix locos were quite good and still are, I have a few ols Airfix locos that are still running as good as they were back when they were made. Cheers Geoff
Nice to see improvised helicoils we used wire from AWS seals to rethread screws in the old days ! Great old loco Mike I still remember getting a Hornby 5572 for Christmas !
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Hi Mike, If I remember to I will let you know if I get one. Another loco you asked me to let you know about if I got one was the Ruston and Hornsby 0-4-0. Well I have an order in with Brittania Models in Vancouver for the R3706 War Dept. version. I hope to have it by the end of Feb. Cheers, David.
another way of repairing the threads inside the plastic pillars is to put Green Stuff - a two part epoxy putty that comes as a tape - inside them and then screw in the original screws. When it dries it will work fine.
Great little models these 31’s, though that can be said for the whole Airfix range in my opinion; I love their whole offering. I got a 31 loose, in blue, as a non runner for a tenner a couple of months ago, but lo and behold the motor runs sweet as a nut and the non running only comes from some loose wires. She’ll likely end up detailed a bit and maybe even painted into coal sector livery, I’d like to double head a pair one day. This is an excellent guide, quite like the rest of your productions. The info regarding the screw on the worm gear is especially helpful. Cheers.
Don't you wish they would show the identity of those who click the thumbs down tap? I note that no matter what I upload I get one, must be some kind of troll.
We were lucky enough to get 31s on the Brighton to Bristol trains about 15 years ago, they were vice 158 and 2 of them topping and tailing 4 mk2s. I'm not a fan of privatised liveries however the Fragonset livery sat really well on them. Happy days!
A tip to save the brittle plastic bogies is to dip them in clear polyurethane varnish. Then brush off 95% of it. Allow it to dry. Spray matt varnish to remove the gloss sheen.
Excellent informative video again. Great tip the copper sheath on the thread tip with brass tubing. You mentioned about magnets. Can I ask how you go about re-energizing old Triang magnets. I have a very old Princess loco and class 37 R751 with weak magnets. I'm reluctant to replace with neodyminium ones as from reports they seem too strong. Cheers.
Hi John, many thanks, I'd certainly say not to use Neo magnets, far too strong and fall apart in my experience. I use a re-magnitiser You can see it in use here: ua-cam.com/video/lzgZd4Dfq6c/v-deo.html where are you located?
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Thanks. I've seen that magnet energizer before but I'm unlikely to justify the cost for the limited use it will get. I believe I saw something in the past where a very strong magnet was rubbed against a weaker one to make it atronger.
Hi Dave. Great video about a great manufacturer. These 31s are v powerful and being 5 pole they can be very smooth too. I will say yours still rattle along somewhat...with some care they can be much smoother than that...although if you have a pwm type controller like many recent hornby ones then that can cause the buzz. If you look on my channel I have airfix locos pulling over 40 wagons with ease!
OK, checked yours out and don't understand the difference, all the time the bogie under-frame is used to hold the motor bearings in place vibration will always be transferred to the track, are yours different? Cheers Mike
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited hmmmm. Well I would have suggested your bearings may be loose but you said they were epoxyed in. The motor shaft does benefit from a medium to thick oil. I have noticed rattles from body shell or glazing in diesels before. Maybe try run them without bodies and see what they are like. Btw it's interesting that you say you have remagnetised some of your motors before. I have done some work on this myself and 99% of Triang motors were made of alnico 2 which has a high coercivity, so should be fine. I believe airfix motors are too. In fact the only magnets I know for sure that can suffer loss of magnet strength are in hornby dublo locos. There is a LOT of subjectivity on forums about this subject, but little real knowledge it seems. Any comments and especially measured improvements welcome. I have just ensure my notifications are on properly for your channel, a good watch. And especially refreshing to see positive mention and service tips for this sort of older loco. Cheers. Gary
Hi Gary, excellent views. Re-magnitising I have found is needed across all x03/4 types and brings a great improvement. Current drops from many be 500mA to 200 or so
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks dave ! hmm. Perhaps I should revisit my magnetizer. Nice to see actual results rather than speculation. Best regards Gary
Hi, there may be some, that said I've never needed to replace either. TT prob find a suitable alternative and for the brushes, might need to remove some from X03 types and use metal glue to put them on the arms
Great video Mike as I have a couple of these---BUT---in your ultrasonic bath, you say you use IPA , the only IPA I know is a beer--I use BIOX in my bath--What is the IPA you use--Thanks
Maybe this www.amazon.co.uk/Uten-Ultrasonic-Jewellery-Cleaning-Dentures/dp/B074Z8FN86/ref=sr_1_6?crid=FMPG6N9MGZUI&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1677937413&sprefix=ultrasonic+cleaner%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-6
Hi Mike, a very interesting look at the insides of Air fix's class 31. I've got the green and blue version still boxed in my collection. Never had to service them yet, so thanks for the tips. Over here in Australia we have Metho (95% Ethanol) is that what IPA is? Cheers.
Hi Michael, many thanks, amazed you have never needed to service them after all this time! IPA needs to be 99-100% here is an example cpc.farnell.com/servisol/100020000/ipa-170-400ml-servisol/dp/SA00963 This is the spray version I use for general cleaning of motors etc.
great informative footage !! these really are nice locos for their era - BUT may I ask if you have any problems with derailments ??- the reason I ask is because I myself ,have a couple of these fine locos -BUT when the power bogie is leading ,they seem very, very prone to frequent deraiing especially on bends with both locos !! when the trailing ,,pick-up bogie is leading ,their is no problems - is this a isolated problem ,or wide -spread ??
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks for the info ,but yes - all seems to be ok with the back-to-back measurements!! if its just my Airfix ,31,s that derail ,it could be down to my track-laying or too sharp (ish ) curves ( Hornby 2/3 radius curves !!) as they only want to derail on the curves - when the power bogie is leading ( when its trailing ,there is no problems - strangely ?) it seems like the flange,s want to "ride -up" over the rail - its just such a shame because I really dont want to "bin them" and as you say ,they are lovely locos and with a little T.L.C they do run quite smooth
hi. may i ask the parameters and purpose of the suppression capacitor? i recently acquired a DCC bachmann loco which had missing DCC board (yes, i know, ebay sellers...) anyway, the motor has soldered resistors and nothing else there. i checked it and it spins fine at 9v. can i just rewire the motor directly to pickups? (making it analogue ofc)
Hi of course you can ask. The cap is a legal requirement to prevent radio and TV interference, however it also has some helpful effects on limiting brush erosion and acts as a block against any AC element present such as HF track cleaners. The value is usually 104 or 0.1 uF Chose one that is at least able to cope with 50v
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Thank you very much. I have a stash of ceramic caps somewhere. However, upon closer inspection of the motor, there are actually 3 tiny caps soldered right to it's terminals. They were hiding under the thermal sleeve.
You need to show how to get motor out of bogie and stress not to touch fitting on top for the connectors that hold the brushes in place which I note you avoid doing yourself, as they’re next to impossible to refit once the brushes have fallen out. My opinion for what it’s worth is that these Airfix 31s are excellent but over engineered locos and best left alone unless they’re non runners. Unlike Hornby and Lima not an easy tinker for the amateur. The screw causing grinding noise sounds like a top tip only screw doesn’t seem too long on mine so maybe a problem confined yo the engine in the video.
Hi and thanks, regarding the brush retaining spring and wire connectors, these seemed normal to me, I did strip it back completely but never thought to share that. Spring is held by the screw, tension can be adjusted by slightly bending the spring wire to get a more even but reduced brush pressure. Brushes are lifted from the underside back into place and held by the spring. Hope this helps?
Always enjoy your films, but found it hard to listen/hear you with the background music. More the volume of it than the actual music - although not sure why it is there at all :)
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Hello, on my apple laptop. It may have been the type of music - sudden slightly higher tones, but I always find what you are saying interesting, so not sure you need it? Thanks for responding. Still enjoyed it.
@@mytinplaterailway Good to hear, yes UA-cam creator academy say you should have a music track in the background so I have kind of embraced it, would be easier for me not to :) I need to run a poll to find out what others think!
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Well here's a thing. You, and Oscar Paisley ( I assume you know his channel ), have the best voices I have heard on UA-cam. So who needs the music!
In regards to the problems you had with your Hornby S15 a year or so back. Not sure if anyone has enlightened you but you DO have a PROBLEM, but it was NOT the Hornby S15 that was the cause ! You were clearly using an old H&M Half Wave controller, an early and problematic type of electronic controller. The normal basic H&M range were fine. But when H&M tried to get smart an provide a more responsive controller to cope with the Stone Age motors in Tri-ang & Hornby toy trains of the day. It all went pear shaped because Club modellers were already starting to use better quality Japanese can type motors in their lovely kit built models, which are effectively the same type as Hornby now currently use !!!! The H&M Half Wave type controller you were using, as seen in your earlier videos, rapidly got a very bad reputation, for causing "death by strangulation" of better quality Japanese can motors, and later it was also blamed for "Instant suicide" of expensive Coreless motors such as Portescap & Fulhaber. Get rid of your H&M controller and you won't have similar problems with your new Hornby locos. The H&M Half Wave controller whether in "Half" or supposed "Full" Wave setting actually chops 16v AC in half (halves the wave) to provide Half Wave AC, NOT pure 12v DC. Hence your S15 was demonstrating all the classic symptoms of "death by strangulation" of the motor, i.e a slow burn out as indicated by your Ammetres erratic milliamp readings. I have four S15's working on my large 87ft x 25ft BASINGSTOKE exhibition layout. These locos have to haul full scale length trains even up 1 in 100 gradients. Apart from adding extra weight inside all of them to ensure they can cope with their trains I've had no problems with these or any other Hornby or other manufacturers motors, including Portescap. Although Hornby motors may not be the very best available, they are good. I use normal 12v DC Gaugemaster panel mount controllers on my layout. I can recommend normal 12v DC Gaugemaster Controllers with the cream facias. Either cased versions including a built in transformer, or the panel mounting versions. Just avoid the little Gaugemaster hand-held version with a BLACK facia, which has a bad reputation for burn outs, because its a "feedback" type. One other problem now facing people who do NOT use DCC is the increasing amount of expensive electrical parts installed in such things as Hornby Pullmans, so the vehicle can detect whether you use 12v DC or 16v AC (DCC). Capacitors are now often included, and this dramatically raises the amperage demand of such vehicles, to dangerous levels. A Bulleid Pacific with 12 x Pullmans on 12v DC now wants to draw 5 amps, which cuts out my controllers within a few seconds. Removing the capacitors and all the other electrical goods, and rewiring the LED tablelamps, reduced the draw to a manageable 2.4 amps !!! I've also had to rebuild Dapol locos and strip out much of the superfluous electronics to reduce their amperage demand, before something catches fire !!! Gaugemaster Controls Ltd/ The Engine shed, Ford Road, Arundel, Sussex. Tel:01903 884488.
Hi and thanks for the in depth reply, you are preaching to the converted however. The controller is in fact an H&M Safety Minor and its full wave output is pure variable DC. It also passes through a filter circuit before it reaches the track which includes an inductor and 100uF non polarized capacitor that adds smoothing to the output and makes the test rig suitable for coreless motors. The wave form can be seen in one of my controller videos and it is on par with the Gaugemasters you refer to, in fact with the mentioned circuit it is more smooth and more kind, 33uF added to the output of the GMs will remove the buzz on start up and crawl you might have noticed but will not affect slow speed performance. Many thanks for your information, Hornby do not seem to have any clue as attested to by that really dreadful silver train set controller they persist with a ignominious device indeed! You may find this page interesting www.rohm.com/electronics-basics/ac-dc/rectification As you see full wave and half wave is actually 50hz or 100hz
Very interesting and informative. Because I bought the Airfix class 31 like new from an over 80 years old store owner in Dorset for only 20 GBP plus shipment to Germany. A really wonderful diesel loco for their age.
Cheers Norbert, yes they are a stunner really ahead of the times.
Hi Mike, Your Older Videos Are Coming Up In My Feed Now. I Think It's Down To Me Pressing The Likes Button. Anyway Brilliant Restoration 😁
Yay great news Tim, more planned
Made that mistake screwing that screw to tight today! Found your video, problem solved! Thanks a million!
Hey John, I am delighted to hear I helped, great locos, way ahead of the time.
Well I’ve had one since 1977 (blue type) it’s been loud for as long as I remember so after a little oiling and cleaning up she’s running sweeter than in years. Bogie was fragile though cracked it slightly but nothing major . Cheers for the good video and I still love the old girl.👍🏻
Cheers Darren glad to help, Mike
Lots learned from this. Never would have thought of using an ultrasonic cleaner! Really enjoyed watching this and listening to your commentary. Great video. Clint
Thanks very much indeed, yes the cleaner works well, I used to use a simple battery jewelry cleaner which did just as good a job.
Great video Mike and some good tips during the whole process of servicing proceedure. These old Aifix locos were quite good and still are, I have a few ols Airfix locos that are still running as good as they were back when they were made.
Cheers
Geoff
Cheers Geoff
Nice to see improvised helicoils we used wire from AWS seals to rethread screws in the old days ! Great old loco Mike I still remember getting a Hornby 5572 for Christmas !
Thanks Merv, 5572 was that the older type?
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited yes think so mike I have a dim and distant memory of working on the renumbered loco at Saltley !
Good video. I have one of these. Still going strong. Very nice locomotive. Thanks for the tips. Regards Paul.
Cheers Paul, well ahead of their time
That was fabulous Mike! Wow, I learned a lot. I shall now be on the look out for an Airfix Cl.31. Regards, David.
Thanks very much David, if you get one let me know
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Hi Mike, If I remember to I will let you know if I get one. Another loco you asked me to let you know about if I got one was the Ruston and Hornsby 0-4-0. Well I have an order in with Brittania Models in Vancouver for the R3706 War Dept. version. I hope to have it by the end of Feb. Cheers, David.
@@trainsontuesday Great stuff :) I am sure you will like it
great video Hornby are still making these very fine models really good to see you at work, have on my shopping list all the best al 😃👍👍👍👍
Hornby still making these? last Hornby 31 I had self exploded lol thanks for watching
another way of repairing the threads inside the plastic pillars is to put Green Stuff - a two part epoxy putty that comes as a tape - inside them and then screw in the original screws. When it dries it will work fine.
Sounds interesting, thanks for the idea
Remember getting the blue one 31 401 back in mid 70s came from WH Smiths what an improvement over hornbys back then ? Pure nostalgia!!!
WH Smiths wow! Mine came from Dave Cleal in Chandlers Ford.
Amazingly quiet!
Thanks, yes it is just possible lol thanks for watching
Great little models these 31’s, though that can be said for the whole Airfix range in my opinion; I love their whole offering.
I got a 31 loose, in blue, as a non runner for a tenner a couple of months ago, but lo and behold the motor runs sweet as a nut and the non running only comes from some loose wires. She’ll likely end up detailed a bit and maybe even painted into coal sector livery, I’d like to double head a pair one day.
This is an excellent guide, quite like the rest of your productions. The info regarding the screw on the worm gear is especially helpful. Cheers.
Glad to help and thanks for the support :)
Don't you wish they would show the identity of those who click the thumbs down tap? I note that no matter what I upload I get one, must be some kind of troll.
Excellent video mate👍
Cheers Craig
really interesting thanks! also I'm on the lookout for an Airfix class 31...
Good luck and thanks
We were lucky enough to get 31s on the Brighton to Bristol trains about 15 years ago, they were vice 158 and 2 of them topping and tailing 4 mk2s. I'm not a fan of privatised liveries however the Fragonset livery sat really well on them. Happy days!
I recall them well and have videos of them. Helped the driver out in Barnham yard when one failed
Excellent 👍
Thanks Martin
A tip to save the brittle plastic bogies is to dip them in clear polyurethane varnish. Then brush off 95% of it. Allow it to dry. Spray matt varnish to remove the gloss sheen.
Hmm now that does sound like a good idea.
Wow, thanks for this - more tips in one video......
Many thanks indeed
Excellent informative video again. Great tip the copper sheath on the thread tip with brass tubing. You mentioned about magnets. Can I ask how you go about re-energizing old Triang magnets. I have a very old Princess loco and class 37 R751 with weak magnets. I'm reluctant to replace with neodyminium ones as from reports they seem too strong. Cheers.
Hi John, many thanks, I'd certainly say not to use Neo magnets, far too strong and fall apart in my experience. I use a re-magnitiser You can see it in use here: ua-cam.com/video/lzgZd4Dfq6c/v-deo.html where are you located?
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Thanks. I've seen that magnet energizer before but I'm unlikely to justify the cost for the limited use it will get. I believe I saw something in the past where a very strong magnet was rubbed against a weaker one to make it atronger.
@@johne5854 Hi John, not sure that would have a lasting effect but may be worth a try. Where about's are you located?
Hi Dave. Great video about a great manufacturer. These 31s are v powerful and being 5 pole they can be very smooth too. I will say yours still rattle along somewhat...with some care they can be much smoother than that...although if you have a pwm type controller like many recent hornby ones then that can cause the buzz. If you look on my channel I have airfix locos pulling over 40 wagons with ease!
Thanks, No PWM here :) I'll check out yours
OK, checked yours out and don't understand the difference, all the time the bogie under-frame is used to hold the motor bearings in place vibration will always be transferred to the track, are yours different? Cheers Mike
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited hmmmm. Well I would have suggested your bearings may be loose but you said they were epoxyed in. The motor shaft does benefit from a medium to thick oil. I have noticed rattles from body shell or glazing in diesels before. Maybe try run them without bodies and see what they are like.
Btw it's interesting that you say you have remagnetised some of your motors before. I have done some work on this myself and 99% of Triang motors were made of alnico 2 which has a high coercivity, so should be fine. I believe airfix motors are too. In fact the only magnets I know for sure that can suffer loss of magnet strength are in hornby dublo locos. There is a LOT of subjectivity on forums about this subject, but little real knowledge it seems. Any comments and especially measured improvements welcome. I have just ensure my notifications are on properly for your channel, a good watch. And especially refreshing to see positive mention and service tips for this sort of older loco. Cheers. Gary
Hi Gary, excellent views. Re-magnitising I have found is needed across all x03/4 types and brings a great improvement. Current drops from many be 500mA to 200 or so
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks dave ! hmm. Perhaps I should revisit my magnetizer. Nice to see actual results rather than speculation. Best regards Gary
AirFix were well ahead of Triang in the 70's most of the moulds ended up with Mainline and the 61XX and the 41XX ended up and hornby
Hi Robert, they certainly were, thanks for watching
Mike can you still get brushes for these Airfix 31s ? And what about traction tyres? Just curious!
Hi, there may be some, that said I've never needed to replace either. TT prob find a suitable alternative and for the brushes, might need to remove some from X03 types and use metal glue to put them on the arms
Great video Mike as I have a couple of these---BUT---in your ultrasonic bath, you say you use IPA , the only IPA I know is a beer--I use BIOX in my bath--What is the IPA you use--Thanks
Thanks lol 🍻🍺 isopropyl alcohol at least 99% you can also use washing up liquid and water.
Cheers Mike .
Can you tell me the make and model of your ultrasonic bath? Sounds like a great way of cleaning locos!
I just got it off Amazon, weirdly there is no make on it
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks 😊
Maybe this www.amazon.co.uk/Uten-Ultrasonic-Jewellery-Cleaning-Dentures/dp/B074Z8FN86/ref=sr_1_6?crid=FMPG6N9MGZUI&keywords=ultrasonic+cleaner&qid=1677937413&sprefix=ultrasonic+cleaner%2Caps%2C97&sr=8-6
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks!
Every day is a school day! (re. Bogie screw length.)
Yes indeed 👍
Hi Mike, a very interesting look at the insides of Air fix's class 31. I've got the green and blue version still boxed in my collection. Never had to service them yet, so thanks for the tips. Over here in Australia we have Metho (95% Ethanol) is that what IPA is? Cheers.
Hi Michael, many thanks, amazed you have never needed to service them after all this time! IPA needs to be 99-100% here is an example cpc.farnell.com/servisol/100020000/ipa-170-400ml-servisol/dp/SA00963 This is the spray version I use for general cleaning of motors etc.
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Thanks for the info Mike. My Air fix 31s are mainly for display.
@@mike59317 Michael, you can buy isopropyl alcohol from the paint section in bunnings.
@@orpingtonstation9635 Hi Matey, thanks for the info I'll check them out next time I'm there, cheers.
Since we are separated by a common language, do tell what is IPA?
It's Isopropyl alcohol.
As David said, here is an example cpc.farnell.com/servisol/100020000/ipa-170-400ml-servisol/dp/SA00963 needs to be 99-100% pure
great informative footage !! these really are nice locos for their era - BUT may I ask if you have any problems with derailments ??- the reason I ask is because I myself ,have a couple of these fine locos -BUT when the power bogie is leading ,they seem very, very prone to frequent deraiing especially on bends with both locos !! when the trailing ,,pick-up bogie is leading ,their is no problems - is this a isolated problem ,or wide -spread ??
Hi Tony, sounds like the back to back may be out on yours, can you check it?
This may help www.dccconcepts.com/product/back-to-back-ooho-standard-14-5mm/
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks for the info ,but yes - all seems to be ok with the back-to-back measurements!! if its just my Airfix ,31,s that derail ,it could be down to my track-laying or too sharp (ish ) curves ( Hornby 2/3 radius curves !!) as they only want to derail on the curves - when the power bogie is leading ( when its trailing ,there is no problems - strangely ?) it seems like the flange,s want to "ride -up" over the rail - its just such a shame because I really dont want to "bin them" and as you say ,they are lovely locos and with a little T.L.C they do run quite smooth
@@tonyfearn2452 Hmm that is odd, traction tyres not too high are they?
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited thanks for that info- i will try and check them out - thanks again
hi. may i ask the parameters and purpose of the suppression capacitor? i recently acquired a DCC bachmann loco which had missing DCC board (yes, i know, ebay sellers...) anyway, the motor has soldered resistors and nothing else there. i checked it and it spins fine at 9v. can i just rewire the motor directly to pickups? (making it analogue ofc)
Hi of course you can ask. The cap is a legal requirement to prevent radio and TV interference, however it also has some helpful effects on limiting brush erosion and acts as a block against any AC element present such as HF track cleaners. The value is usually 104 or 0.1 uF Chose one that is at least able to cope with 50v
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Thank you very much. I have a stash of ceramic caps somewhere. However, upon closer inspection of the motor, there are actually 3 tiny caps soldered right to it's terminals. They were hiding under the thermal sleeve.
@@missmisiowa Hi, Can you send me a photo of these caps?
You need to show how to get motor out of bogie and stress not to touch fitting on top for the connectors that hold the brushes in place which I note you avoid doing yourself, as they’re next to impossible to refit once the brushes have fallen out. My opinion for what it’s worth is that these Airfix 31s are excellent but over engineered locos and best left alone unless they’re non runners. Unlike Hornby and Lima not an easy tinker for the amateur. The screw causing grinding noise sounds like a top tip only screw doesn’t seem too long on mine so maybe a problem confined yo the engine in the video.
Hi and thanks, regarding the brush retaining spring and wire connectors, these seemed normal to me, I did strip it back completely but never thought to share that. Spring is held by the screw, tension can be adjusted by slightly bending the spring wire to get a more even but reduced brush pressure. Brushes are lifted from the underside back into place and held by the spring. Hope this helps?
Always enjoy your films, but found it hard to listen/hear you with the background music. More the volume of it than the actual music - although not sure why it is there at all :)
Hi Ian, thanks. That is interesting to hear, the music track was set at 12% so the vocal is way, over it. What device are you listening on?
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Hello, on my apple laptop. It may have been the type of music - sudden slightly higher tones, but I always find what you are saying interesting, so not sure you need it? Thanks for responding. Still enjoyed it.
@@mytinplaterailway Good to hear, yes UA-cam creator academy say you should have a music track in the background so I have kind of embraced it, would be easier for me not to :) I need to run a poll to find out what others think!
@@ModelRailwaysUnlimited Well here's a thing. You, and Oscar Paisley ( I assume you know his channel ), have the best voices I have heard on UA-cam. So who needs the music!
@@mytinplaterailway Oh shucks lol yes I know Oscar,
In regards to the problems you had with your Hornby S15 a year or so back. Not sure if anyone has enlightened you but you DO have a PROBLEM, but it was NOT the Hornby S15 that was the cause ! You were clearly using an old H&M Half Wave controller, an early and problematic type of electronic controller. The normal basic H&M range were fine. But when H&M tried to get smart an provide a more responsive controller to cope with the Stone Age motors in Tri-ang & Hornby toy trains of the day. It all went pear shaped because Club modellers were already starting to use better quality Japanese can type motors in their lovely kit built models, which are effectively the same type as Hornby now currently use !!!!
The H&M Half Wave type controller you were using, as seen in your earlier videos, rapidly got a very bad reputation, for causing "death by strangulation" of better quality Japanese can motors, and later it was also blamed for "Instant suicide" of expensive Coreless motors such as Portescap & Fulhaber. Get rid of your H&M controller and you won't have similar problems with your new Hornby locos.
The H&M Half Wave controller whether in "Half" or supposed "Full" Wave setting actually chops 16v AC in half (halves the wave) to provide Half Wave AC, NOT pure 12v DC. Hence your S15 was demonstrating all the classic symptoms of "death by strangulation" of the motor, i.e a slow burn out as indicated by your Ammetres erratic milliamp readings.
I have four S15's working on my large 87ft x 25ft BASINGSTOKE exhibition layout. These locos have to haul full scale length trains even up 1 in 100 gradients. Apart from adding extra weight inside all of them to ensure they can cope with their trains I've had no problems with these or any other Hornby or other manufacturers motors, including Portescap. Although Hornby motors may not be the very best available, they are good. I use normal 12v DC Gaugemaster panel mount controllers on my layout.
I can recommend normal 12v DC Gaugemaster Controllers with the cream facias. Either cased versions including a built in transformer, or the panel mounting versions. Just avoid the little Gaugemaster hand-held version with a BLACK facia, which has a bad reputation for burn outs, because its a "feedback" type.
One other problem now facing people who do NOT use DCC is the increasing amount of expensive electrical parts installed in such things as Hornby Pullmans, so the vehicle can detect whether you use 12v DC or 16v AC (DCC). Capacitors are now often included, and this dramatically raises the amperage demand of such vehicles, to dangerous levels. A Bulleid Pacific with 12 x Pullmans on 12v DC now wants to draw 5 amps, which cuts out my controllers within a few seconds. Removing the capacitors and all the other electrical goods, and rewiring the LED tablelamps, reduced the draw to a manageable 2.4 amps !!! I've also had to rebuild Dapol locos and strip out much of the superfluous electronics to reduce their amperage demand, before something catches fire !!!
Gaugemaster Controls Ltd/ The Engine shed, Ford Road, Arundel, Sussex. Tel:01903 884488.
Hi and thanks for the in depth reply, you are preaching to the converted however. The controller is in fact an H&M Safety Minor and its full wave output is pure variable DC. It also passes through a filter circuit before it reaches the track which includes an inductor and 100uF non polarized capacitor that adds smoothing to the output and makes the test rig suitable for coreless motors. The wave form can be seen in one of my controller videos and it is on par with the Gaugemasters you refer to, in fact with the mentioned circuit it is more smooth and more kind, 33uF added to the output of the GMs will remove the buzz on start up and crawl you might have noticed but will not affect slow speed performance. Many thanks for your information, Hornby do not seem to have any clue as attested to by that really dreadful silver train set controller they persist with a ignominious device indeed! You may find this page interesting www.rohm.com/electronics-basics/ac-dc/rectification As you see full wave and half wave is actually 50hz or 100hz