Well done . She’s actually a pretty quiet runner for Airfix . It’s good to restore someone’s pride and joy . It’s probably more than 40 years old so it probably holds some memories
Another enjoyable video, rising to the airfix challenge as always. Glad it’s wasn’t a complete removal and strip down. As say looks like it didn’t need it as the motor was working. Great result in the end, looked good round the layout 👍👍👍 😎
Just wanted to say how much I’ve enjoyed your videos of the maintenance and repair of older locomotives. A neglected area of the hobby given the drift towards DCC, electronics, sound and feeling you ought to be shelling out loads of cash if you want to get any satisfaction out of this hobby. At least as the well off divest themselves of still perfectly useable gear we get the chance to pick up stuff at affordable prices! Keep up the good work.
Great video and a great job done . I have made the mistake of taking the tender motor apart on a AirFix loco before as you say they are a bloody pane to back together because you can never see the very small gears in the little gearbox on the side of the motor when putting back . But very well detailed locos for there time made in mid to late 1970s better detail than other locos of the time
I swapped the motor bogie out of it with my 4F which was refusing to run quietly due to wear. It had lots of bits broken of it and a missing panel. I prefer my older R450 2P so have retired the Airfix 2P for spares.
I seem to recall the tender body is held on by the buffer beam when new. If it was lost or parts broken that could be why it was glued. Peter's spares sells a brass one for these locos. To be fair the haulage capacity of these tenders is massive with all those traction tyres.
Another great and informative video on how to repair and service some older locos. I'm most definitely learning a few tips on servicing locos each time I tune. Thanks for sharing with us. Cheers, Darren from Newcastle,NSW, Australia
Great video, really appreciate the observations and tips surrounding the Airfix tender drive. I have one that demonstrates suicidal tendencies when reversing.
Remove the traction tyres from middle wheels to make them more stable around curves and check the wheel spacing. 14.4mm is standard but I find 14mm or just under works better with these. The flanges are too shallow and unless the track is 100% flat they will jump around and derail way too easily.
Nice video. Just been doing my Royal Scot with a duff motor, for the 2nd time of trying. Motor was better than expected to strip and rebuild, needed lot of patience tho'. The tender body/top was loose but I found some instructions. Remove rear buffer beam, carefully. The buffers extend thro' the frame and hold down 2 tabs which are part of the top. A quick application of s/g, left overnight and it all goes together perfect. Still need to get it going though, next time I'll try a spare motor.
I had the same problem with those 2 brass rivets holding the copper strips on each side together, too, but on the Airfix 4F. Only it took me 7 tries of dismantling and rebuilding to finally realise that they were the problem! I don't understand why they didn't just make it one strip (for each side of course). I mean somebody must've realised it would come loose. I just flowed a load of solder in to the rivets on my 4F and hopefully it's permanently fixed now.
I've got both Royal Scots Fusiliers in LMS Black and Royal Scot in BR Green. RSF is a lovely runner but Royal Scot is a bit temperamental and needs some TLC. ATM she's confined to shed (AKA in her box) whilst her duties are covered by my BR Green Black Five (which was a special Hornby produced for Kays catalogue). I actually like the Airfix tender drives in spite of their plastic construction. They seem to have significantly better low-speed control than the Hornby tender-drives which is important for a little BLT layout like mine. I don't think I'd recommend them for a roundy-roundy layout though as I don't think they're up to the mileage.
thing is though that they are driving 3 pairs of wheels not the more usual 2 for the ringfield... so they don't really have many more gears proportionally (and to get all the wheels turning the same way) than hornby
Hi Bill. You make this look so easy! Every time I try and service a loco I end up breaking it or being unable to put it back together. It's really frustrating and putting me off getting back into the hobby. Do you have any tips for some-one like me who is a little ham fasted? (Apart from give up!!)
interesting one that. im not too familiar with airfix. maybe its just me or does some models have horrible power pickups to deal with when it comes to repairing it. however what id like to know is what oil you are using there and when and with which grease do you apply to bushes or bearings if you dont mind me asking
I have a Hornby Royal Scot and it doesn't have smoke deflectors. Having had a quick look at wiki they were originally built from 1927 without smoke deflectors which were added after 1931. The class was rebuilt between 1943-1955 and these too started off without smoke defectors though they were added later. en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LMS_Royal_Scot_Class
Well done . She’s actually a pretty quiet runner for Airfix . It’s good to restore someone’s pride and joy . It’s probably more than 40 years old so it probably holds some memories
Had the same model in the late 1970s - terrible runner from new. Well done on bringing the Scot back to life.
Running like a dream now.
Another enjoyable video, rising to the airfix challenge as always. Glad it’s wasn’t a complete removal and strip down. As say looks like it didn’t need it as the motor was working. Great result in the end, looked good round the layout 👍👍👍 😎
Just wanted to say how much I’ve enjoyed your videos of the maintenance and repair of older locomotives. A neglected area of the hobby given the drift towards DCC, electronics, sound and feeling you ought to be shelling out loads of cash if you want to get any satisfaction out of this hobby. At least as the well off divest themselves of still perfectly useable gear we get the chance to pick up stuff at affordable prices! Keep up the good work.
Great video and a great job done . I have made the mistake of taking the tender motor apart on a AirFix loco before as you say they are a bloody pane to back together because you can never see the very small gears in the little gearbox on the side of the motor when putting back .
But very well detailed locos for there time made in mid to late 1970s better detail than other locos of the time
some of my locos are broken and you are my inspiration to learn how to fix them so thank you ..... congratulations on 3010K subscribers
O and what has happened to your 2p?
I swapped the motor bogie out of it with my 4F which was refusing to run quietly due to wear. It had lots of bits broken of it and a missing panel. I prefer my older R450 2P so have retired the Airfix 2P for spares.
Bill had the same effect on me :)
Nice job bill, that loco is lovely and runs so well for its age 👍
I seem to recall the tender body is held on by the buffer beam when new. If it was lost or parts broken that could be why it was glued. Peter's spares sells a brass one for these locos. To be fair the haulage capacity of these tenders is massive with all those traction tyres.
Another great and informative video on how to repair and service some older locos.
I'm most definitely learning a few tips on servicing locos each time I tune.
Thanks for sharing with us.
Cheers,
Darren from Newcastle,NSW, Australia
I had the same problem on my airfix 3f. Great stuff as usual.
A Master at work,I wish I had your knowledge & patience
That might not have the nicest ringfield motor, but it is the quietest one I have heard. Martin. (Thailand)
Yeah it was quiet. That's why I left it alone. Don't fix things that don't need fixed....
Hi Bill, You turned this into a real smooth runner. Interesting repair. We do learn a lot from you ! Thanks ! Greetings, Filip
Great video, really appreciate the observations and tips surrounding the Airfix tender drive. I have one that demonstrates suicidal tendencies when reversing.
Remove the traction tyres from middle wheels to make them more stable around curves and check the wheel spacing. 14.4mm is standard but I find 14mm or just under works better with these. The flanges are too shallow and unless the track is 100% flat they will jump around and derail way too easily.
The 'brass sheet pickups' are usually phosphor-bronze; they are not as yellow as brass.
Beautiful looking Model - Great diagnosis Doctor - another Smooth Runner is re-borne 🥇👍🏻
Excellent video Bill 👍🏻
Converted same loco same age to DCC one of the best runners in my collection
Nice video. Just been doing my Royal Scot with a duff motor, for the 2nd time of trying. Motor was better than expected to strip and rebuild, needed lot of patience tho'. The tender body/top was loose but I found some instructions. Remove rear buffer beam, carefully. The buffers extend thro' the frame and hold down 2 tabs which are part of the top. A quick application of s/g, left overnight and it all goes together perfect. Still need to get it going though, next time I'll try a spare motor.
Yet another success! Well done Bill !
I had the same problem with those 2 brass rivets holding the copper strips on each side together, too, but on the Airfix 4F. Only it took me 7 tries of dismantling and rebuilding to finally realise that they were the problem!
I don't understand why they didn't just make it one strip (for each side of course). I mean somebody must've realised it would come loose. I just flowed a load of solder in to the rivets on my 4F and hopefully it's permanently fixed now.
I did consider solder but thought better of it as it is so close to plastic and I'm not that great at soldering.
@@oobill It was getting a slight bit melted by the time I had finished!
Nice job, again. Great channel.
Great video mate.I've still got those engines if you want them.
fine business well done mate look forward to the next one.
A job well done. Wish you were my next door neighbour, because I have a doggy locomotive that needs some attention. Cheers Greg from Australia.
I've got both Royal Scots Fusiliers in LMS Black and Royal Scot in BR Green. RSF is a lovely runner but Royal Scot is a bit temperamental and needs some TLC. ATM she's confined to shed (AKA in her box) whilst her duties are covered by my BR Green Black Five (which was a special Hornby produced for Kays catalogue). I actually like the Airfix tender drives in spite of their plastic construction. They seem to have significantly better low-speed control than the Hornby tender-drives which is important for a little BLT layout like mine. I don't think I'd recommend them for a roundy-roundy layout though as I don't think they're up to the mileage.
Good video enjoyed watching. Just bought one. Will do a video when it comes. Regards Paul. 🚂🚂🚂
Good work. I do think the Royal Scots are nice locos. I've got a Hornby one and love it.
Thank you for the tips!
thing is though that they are driving 3 pairs of wheels not the more usual 2 for the ringfield... so they don't really have many more gears proportionally (and to get all the wheels turning the same way) than hornby
Excellent job well done!
Brilliant video
Very nice job bill
Beautiful 👍
Another winner 👍💫
Brilliant.🇬🇧
Hi Bill. You make this look so easy! Every time I try and service a loco I end up breaking it or being unable to put it back together. It's really frustrating and putting me off getting back into the hobby. Do you have any tips for some-one like me who is a little ham fasted? (Apart from give up!!)
Nice one Bill!
interesting one that. im not too familiar with airfix. maybe its just me or does some models have horrible power pickups to deal with when it comes to repairing it. however what id like to know is what oil you are using there and when and with which grease do you apply to bushes or bearings if you dont mind me asking
ko-fi.com/post/FAQ-C0C6E0UO4
Bill really hates this one I think.
Another loco I have👍
Hi oobil nice video how do I get in touch with u .I have got some loco.s for u to at
Forgive me if I'm wrong, but aren't royal Scots meant to have smoke deflectors?
I have a Hornby Royal Scot and it doesn't have smoke deflectors.
Having had a quick look at wiki they were originally built from 1927 without smoke deflectors which were added after 1931. The class was rebuilt between 1943-1955 and these too started off without smoke defectors though they were added later.
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/LMS_Royal_Scot_Class
Ahh thats cleared that up