I do painting I see your cuts you put around the edges so you didn’t have to tape off.. That was a smart idea & to paint it on instead of killing your back was genius.
@@86753091974 he means that he went around the edges, probably with a natural bristle brush if it is oil based poly and synthetic if water based, to "cut" the edges. This is a term commonly used in painting to mean the same thing which is when you use a brush or similar tool to get the very edges of whatever youre painting so you don't need to use the roller to go all the way to the edge which would require taping off the perimeter so it doesn't get poly on it (in all actuality it shouldn't matter because typically you would remove any baseboard, then apply poly, then put baseboard back on which would cover any poly that accidentally got on lower couple inches of wall anyway)
Yes, you can. You will need to remove all the loose lambs wool fiber. Lambs wool tend to shed a lot. Keep your strokes in a straight line and the same direction as the length of the flooring. You cannot brush across the width of the floor boards or across the grain. Brush strokes will show up on your finish.
I'm going to refinish wood floors in my new house they have been under carpet for 40 years I'm not sure what type of finish I should use what do you feel is the best thanks
It depends on the look you are after. For a traditional amber look, 3 coats of Poloplaz Primero is my top choice for oil base.Primero has a very high film build and offers great floor protection. For water base, Loba's Supra AT ceramic finish. The ceramic is more scuff resistant compared to acrylic water base finishes. If, you like the hand rubbed oil look, I like using Pallman's Magic Oil with Rubio being my second choice.
If, your finish is still good and you are dealing with a dull shine. You will need to strip the cleaning residue build up. Use a "concentrated" grade hardwood floor cleaner to bring back the original shine. It is much stronger, will strip cleaning residue build up - which is causing it to dull, ph neutral, won't streak or dull compared to wood floor cleaners available for daily spruce ups. Bona makes one, check the label for "concentrate". www.bona.com/en-US/Bona-Professional/Products/Floor-Care/Cleaners1/Bona-Pro-Series-Hardwood-Floor-Cleaner-Concentrate/ If, recoating is needed. You will need to do a deep clean to remove cleaning residue and waxes, buff (abrade with 220 grit sandpaper), apply a bond enhancer and then apply a durable water base finish to go over the prefinished bamboo flooring.
If, you're having bubbles with either. The main cause will be prep work: sanding and cleaning. Sanding: make your final cut at 120 grit. A smooth surface finish will make vacuuming more efficient and help your finish level and smooth out. Tampico Brush: Use a tampico brush to loosen dust from the raw wood fibers prior to vacuuming and tacking. Fine dust trapped in the fibers will create bubbles in the finish. You can google gandswoodfloors and see a lot of my work under G & S floor service lynn, ma. I stop posting to my website, too many content thieves.
You can spot fix by sanding with 220 grit and re-coat with a brush. If, you have heavy bubbles, use a razor scraper to lightly knock it down before sanding.
+ROGER WILSON a t-bar is a applicator that you can use for waterbase or polyurethane ....just google it you'll see in my opinion best way to coat any floor!!
T-bar isn't practical on a floor with large gaps between boards. You lose your puddle soaking down into the cracks. It isn't always practical to fill gaps with wood filler either so that you could use a T-bar applicator.
This method will work with Bona Nordic Seal. Be sure to apply the proper coverage and feather out start and stop points, along with keeping a wet edge. Nordic Seal has white pigments in it, which will be visible, if, you do not feather out your S&S points. Nordic Seal will set up fast, if, you apply a thin coat and you will end up with unwanted lap marks. Keeping a wet edge is critical. Always follow manufacturer's recommendation and guidelines for application.
Water base is done backwards. You would pour the finish into a wet edge and roll the finish towards you, then forward and feather (lift) up. For water base, I recommend using a 1/4" nap 14" microfiber roller by Arroworthy. The handle will support both sides of the roller, which will allow for even flow. Much more balanced and faster. A 9" roller has a heavy side, which cause overflow or ridges in the finishes. More work with a 9" roller.
Make sure your working temperature is between 70-80 degree. The finish is acclimated to room temperature. You are applying proper coverage, do not overwork the product. Eliminate air flow, until after you are complete. You are using a 3/8" nap microfiber roller with either 80 or 120 micron. Arrow Worthy can be purchased at any paint stores.
hello, i applied my 1st coat of poly using a lambswool applicator. it was a disaster. i hand buffed everything down with 220 grit sandpaper and rolled the poly using 3/8" nap purdy ulta finish microfiber roller. Finish came out really good, beside minor imperfections. Again i sanded everything down with 220 and reapplied a 3rd coat with a new purdy ultra finish microfiber roller. Finish came out better than coat number 2. My last coat #4, i decided to use a new roller brand 1/4" home depot premium smooth finish roller, because I read somewhere that 1/4" would give me glass like finish. Big disaster again, many pebble like bubbles. I just finished hand sanding everything again with the 220. But i still see the pebble like bubbles; they have been flattened but I still see them. Question, Will is see these imperfections when I add the last (hopefully) #5 coat? This my materials: Varathane Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Floor Finish Polyurethane high traffic fast drying formula ( i added 6.4 ounces mineral spirits/gallon) pole sander hand sander purdy ultra finish roller (loews) Incidentally, MFG does not recommend thinning or rolling for that matter. I am just a homeowner, I never refinished my floors before so this is a first/and maybe last time i did this... Any help would be much appreciated. Joe
Hi Joseph, If, the mfg. does not recommend rolling their product. That indicates that it has poor leveling agent. To combat this, using a thin nap roller and pouring a large puddle of finish onto the floor helps. Arroworthy 1/4" microfiber roller is ideal. A fairly heavy coverage needs to be applied to avoid roller marks, such as orange peel effect. Otherwise, you will need to apply a thin coat using a lambswool. Regarding your bubbles, You need to sand the existing bubbles flat. Remnance will show through the next coating. You can use a hand held orbital with 220 grit. Afterwards, clean, clean, clean. Vacuum and tack until no dust transfers onto your hand when touched. Clean off dust from your clothes and footwear. Clean off baseboards, doors and windows. Clean adjacent areas, such as halls and rooms. Eliminate moving air, moving air will transfer dust and particles onto the finish. The bubbles are from dust particles, not the finish. Cleaning will be key to getting a bubble free result.
Been battling the same nonsense. Used the home depot 7" poly applicator specifically for woof floors. I can see e every single spot where I tried to lap the previous Area. Jokes. You can't notice it while you're doing it but when you check on it in the morning after it has dried you're like what the fuck this still looks like ass... all over again. I'm about to tell the wife deal with it.
@Al Rutherford so long story short....I tried actual poly on one floor with the dumb wool applicator. Looks like crap still but put an area rug over it. Tadaa, done. But there is a product called rejuvenate that comes with 3 pads, the wand and pad head. The product itself is sold alone. I used that on a different floor after thoroughly cleaning and performing a lighting sanding by hand in the direcrion of the grain and the floor looks damn door. No over lap marks, no crap stuck in the finish, etc. I would recommend that product for finishing a wood floor. It works on other surfaces, but they sell different solutions for different flooring materials. It is not a substitute for a full deep sanding that gets down to fresh wood material with a fresh finish with stain/poly, but it's damn decent for the money. 50 bucks to refinish an entire floor plus my labor.
Sand everything down start over... You put poly on using a T bar and pour method if you don't want bubbles, rollers leave bubbles period, wool you have to be consistent and directional equally which takes more skill than a T bar ironically lol... But if you want that pro look, you got to do what a pro does, or pay that dude... You should get it down by room 3 😂
No, not for decking stain. The product dries too fast. You will end up with roller marks. Best thing to do is to spray the stain and back brush with a pad to equalize it, so it is uniform.
I am having my hardwood sanded and finished tomorrow, they are using waterborne finish. Since I purchased my home 20 years ago, this is the first time I am doing this, I have been delaying it because emptying the home is a total pain in the arse, specially having to move everything by myself without any help. I have been told lately that waterborne finish is not near as durable as "old school" solvent based stuff, so I am a bit concerned... the contractor said he is aplying three coats. I live alone, no kids and no pets, so the floors are not going to suffer a harsh life. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Hal , that is a myth. Today's water base poly is better than the oil base poly. You want to use the high end stuff like bona traffic HD or loba Supra AT. These will outperform oil base poly.
For a no-sanding system, you can use the Bona Restore system: Deep clean with remover and rinse to remove contaminants, apply Bona Prep and recoat with Bona Traffic HD. Doing a light sand with 220 grit before applying your coating is best. This will help remove some imperfections.
What do you define as "high quality polyurethane "? I rolled on Minwax on my pantry shelves and had dried bubbles everywhere! Had to tip it off next coat with fine brush after sanding bubbles smooth
Use a product with high solids and quality solvents, that levels and don't stink. Poloplaz Primero or Supreme, Bona Woodline or Glitsa 500 for oil base polyurethanes
Thanks for the answer-but I wasn't clear, do you presoak in thinner before use as you would lambswool? I do store in the poly, that works well vs daily cleaning or wrapping in plastic bags as I do with latex paintbrushes.
No, we do not presoak in thinner. Directly into the oil base poly. We use new sets for latex, a 3 pack 3/8 nap microfiber roller under $10. Nylon brushes at $10-$13 each. Have one for sealers and two for poly. This helps prevent cross-contamination. Applicators are already included in the pricing.
5 in 1 tool to scrape particles off. Otherwise, we store it in finish, for the next job. Water base finish in clean water, oil base in oil finish. Everything else gets disposed: moisture cure & tung oil. Any applicators that are contaminated with particles and bad finish, gets tossed out and replaced. It's not unusual for us to use a new set for each job. Keeping the applicators particle free is more important for us. This prevents particles from being redeposited to the finish. It's always good to have a set for the first 2 coats and 1 set for the final for three coats of oil base poly. If, you use sealers, have a separate set for the sealer to prevent cross contamination.
Rollers are cheap, just toss it and use a new one next time! It's not worth the hassle of cleaning it, unless it's a special kind that is expensive or hard to find!!
Did you get micro bubbles using the roller? Was it water based or oil based polyurethane? Also would you know the color name of the grey paint on the wall?
Our coatings lay out smooth. Room, floor, finish temperature, airflow and coverage is important. This helps the finish level itself out. The orange peel and bubbles will pop and level itself. The nap on your roller maybe too thick. 3/8 nap is a good thickness. Also, control your room temperature and airflow. In the video we applied oil base poly. Sorry, I do not know the color of the paint other than it is a Ben Moore paint. This was a clients property.
For water base, re-coating can be done after 4 hours with 70 degree temperature. For oil base, wait at least 20 hours with 70 degree temperature. Humidity and room temperature will either slow or speed up drying time. Pay attention to your working conditions.
GandSwoodfloors.com thank you. What should I think if a wood floor company says they can apply 3 coats in one day and it will be fine to walk on after 8hours? It seems like it should take a week of going back and forth to really do a good job.
@@drinny26 How many square feet is involved? What type of finish? It sounds like a water base system. If, you are talking about 200 sq. ft. That is doable for a 12 hour work day. I recommend telling them to only apply 2 coats max in one 8 hour day and have them make another trip for the final. The longer the finish dries in-between coats, the better. You will avoid poly beads in the joints. And they can give it a good buffing to smooth out the finish, when the finish is allowed more time to harden. Make sure they're following the manufacturer's guidelines for dry time and re-application. I don't see a reason why they need to rush the coating. Unless, they under bid the project or have a long travel time.
We gave the coatings 18 hours or more to dry, before abrading it. Room temperature was at 75 degrees. Yes, you can walk on the floor without damaging it, avoid dragging your feet. Two hours is a minimum recommendation from the mfg. under perfect drying conditions. If, you do not have perfect drying conditions, give it 4 to 6 hours minimum, before abrading and re-coating.
In the video, a blue candy stripe Bona roller was used, along with Bona woodbine oil base polyurethane. No sealer was used in this video. For roller, I recommend using Arroworthy 1/4" nap microfiber roller for oil or water base finish. Better value with great results. I use a new roller for each coat. Rollers are a one time use to prevent cross contamination and particle transfer onto a final coat.
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. If, you applied a stain. No sealer is needed. If, it is a natural red oak look. You will want to use a sealer for better build, prevent side bonding and panelization. You can use it without a stain. This would be dependent on how well you prepped your wood surface. A rough surface would make application difficult and you would get improper film build needed for proper performance. Recommended surface finish is 150 grit for proper performance.
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn Thanks for quick reply. I am going for all natural look so what kind of sealer would work best? It would be nice if I can pick some up from one of the big box stores. First time doing this so thank you for your advise.
@@kgnok2020 It depends on the color you want. Bona has five different sealers, ranging from white to yellow. Visit their site for more information: Bona.com You can use any of those. Bona Mega also, has a slight ambering color, since it is a oil-modified type polyurethane.
Best rollers to use is 120 microns(fiber thickness) microfiber roller by Pallman or Loba. It's a universal roller, made for oil and water base. Not sure if, Wooster or Purdy makes a 120 micron microfiber roller. Although, they do make microfiber rollers. I believe it's 80 microns, thinner and loose fibers, which will leave more of an orange peel texture, when used with polyurethane. So, it would be critical to use a self leveling polyurethane.
Blue candy stripe microfiber roller. Use Arroworthy 1/4" nap microfiber roller, best value compared to Loba, Bona and Pallmann's roller. Available in 9, 14 and 18" lengths, can be used for both oil and water base finishes. I use the 14" for easy maneuvering and speed. 9" roller takes too long to apply finish and is heavy on one side due to the handle. 18" roller can miss spots if, the floor is not perfectly flat. 14" roller is perfect. It's inexpensive, I use new rollers for every coat to prevent cross contamination. Especially, for 2 part water base finishes.
Yes, oil base poly. Use Loba or Pallman's 120 micron microfiber roller - $15 each. 3/8" nap. You can sub with Arroworthy 3/8" nap microfiber paint roller, but be aware of splatter and slings when rolling. You will need to slow down your rolling along walls. Slings and splatter created by the handle type.
Unless you know how to do a spray application, best method for furntiures is just to wipe on with a lambs wool. Just remove any loose fibers, before doing so.
The smoothness of the polyurethane will depend on how well your abrasion and cleaning is done. If, not done well, it show through on your final coat. To fix the issue, you will need to abrade, clean, tack and re-coat.
This was a final(third) coat application. The floor was fully sanded with a final cut at 120 grit. Then sanded in between coats with 220 grit to remove raised grains and rough finish, clean, tack and coated.
There are several factors that needs to be considered to avoid bubbles. You need a clean and flat floor. This helps the finish to level and pop the tiny bubbles. A clean flat floor will start with your sanding. Sand the floor using manufacturer's or NWFA sanding guidelines. Make sure there are no dish outs, deep scratches. gouges or rough areas. These imperfections will trap dust in the wood fibers, making it difficult to remove and clean. It also, makes it way into your applicators and back onto the floor in clumps of bubbles. Having a flat floor will make it easy to clean in-between coatings. Reducing your chances of bubbles. A tool you can add to your artillery of cleaning tools is a tampico brush (disc) for your buffer. Using a tampico brush prior to vacuuming the raw wood will help remove any fine dust in the wood fibers. So if, you have any of the imperfections mentioned above. This tool will clean up in those hard to reach areas. You would use this tool only once during the sanding process. And that is prior to vacuuming. Do not use this tool in-between coats. It will slick up the floor finish and close up the abrasion. Repeatedly using a old applicator will also cause bubbles. Old applicators will collect debris and contaminants from previous coatings and transfer it to your current one. Replacing it with new clean applicators will reduce the chances of bubbles. For oil base, I would replace it after 5000 sf. of coating. Sooner if, it yields signs of bad results. For water base, i use a new roller for every coat. This helps avoid cross contamination with sealers, one components, two components and different hardeners. You cannot re-catalize a old finish. If, you have remnants of old finish in the applicators. It will cause issues, including bubbles.
@@dazpeat8404 Correction, some polyurethane are flammable, such as moisture cure finishes. It should be labeled on the side of the can if it is. It should have a flame symbol for flammable or combustible But, most is combustible. Lacquer sealers are flammable.
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn yes it's got flammable on tin, its a hardglaze polyurethane gloss I've used. Wondering if it's flammable still when it's dried on a floor.
Yes, you can roll both waterborne and oil base polyurethane. The most common mistakes made is not applying the proper coverage, improper sanding and abrasion. If, you do not apply enough, you will end up with roller marks. Improper sanding and abrasion will give you bad results - lines, bibles and rough spots. Use a microfiber roller for both types of finish.
120 micron microfiber roller is the best to use. Loba, Pallmann and Bona makes it. If, you are not able to obtain one. Use Arrow Worthy's 3/8" nap microfiber roller. It can be purchased at any paint store, except for the big box stores.
In the video I used Bona's 9" microfiber roller. I since have switched to Arroworthy's 1/4" nap x 14" microfiber roller. I find it does a better job, quicker and less expensive.
To avoid the slinging, slow down near and around walls. If, you are still slinging at the walls from the middle of the room. Spread the finish out more before you start to roll. It can be the handle you are using also.
Not loading the roller properly and working the poly to much. Not enough product been applied and not even cutting in with a brush around the skirtings.
This is a great method if you want a nice consistent orange peel effect... If you're a flooring contractor then you really need to know how to use a T-bar to apply finish.
nobaddog1 no I use Lenmar Satin Poly straight from the quart can. You have to use a good quality low nap roller. I use red rollers from Sherwin Williams. I’ve done thousands of floors in the past 23 years.
@@daleturner3507 Mr Turner I'm looking to roll my clear gloss polyurethane oil base onto my hardwood floors! As far as what nap roller to use is it okay to use 3/8 or should I use quarter inch or something thank you in advance
Yes, you can but, you cannot use a flooring finish. The product will run and drip. Also, you will need to back brush on a ceiling. Other types of polyurethane will not self-level, like polyurethanes for wood flooring.
The one used in the video is a 1/4" nap mohair roller. We've since, switched to a microfiber roller made by Pallman - 120 micro, 1/2" nap. It is much smoother and will not release particles onto the wood finish. It is a universal roller made for water base and oil base solvent. Reduced splattering, also.
What brand did you use? What type of roller? How much was applied? What was the room temperature? What was the sanding schedule for sanding grits? What was the final grit? How was the floor cleaned?
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn It would have been useful for you to answer all those questions in the video. Anybody can figure out how to use a roller, but without understanding ALL the steps and details necessary to get a proper finish, the results will almost certainly be disappointing.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags Which guy are you saying is the amateur, the one who asked the question or the guy who made the video? There is a ton of important information missing from the video, so if someone who's never done this before uses this video as their only guide, they will run into issues.
If, you are just buffing the edges. Hand sanding is best, you can work along the surface without missing a spot. Block sanders tend to miss, especially if, your original sanding isn't perfectly flat. Also, block sanders don't alway fit under heaters and radiators. Whereas your fingers will.
Community, Is a little better way to do this you use a sponge mop you don't get the bubbles and it's about as fast... Thanks for sharing look forward to hearing from you. I also have a how to channel showing different things as well. I'll be checking out more of your videos. and thanks God bless Ken look forward to hearing from you.
You will end up with a thinner film build using a sponge or T-bar. You get a much higher build with a roller. There is no wrong way to apply it, if, you are getting consistent quality results. We are currently working on another video for rolling poly. Different pattern, much faster than the one shown here. It will be out soon.
I did this with water based polyurethane and I didn't run into any bubble problems whatsoever. However, when I dipped the roller into the poly and fully submerged it, a few drops fell off as I moved the roller to the area I was working on. What happened is the outer ring of the drops dried almost instantly. After I got done rolling the floor and it dried I saw a bunch of tiny rings in the finish where the drops had originally fallen. Only way to prevent this is to have a towel between your bucket of poly and application area that will catch the drips. Almost becomes a 2 man job with water based because it dries so fast.
Hi Jay19, For water base, the best thing to do is to put straight out of the bottle. The handle will not be dripping with finish. You will avoid slings and drips off the handle. Eliminate all air movement, hot spots ,low room temperature and coat in small sections, avoid getting too far ahead with the edges. Another tip, roll the edges first, cut in and then go over with the roller again to keep the edges wet.
Thanks. Ive been using their finishes with a lambswool for 20 + years and am interested in rolling. It seems like it would use less materials (thinner to store the lambswool in) and like it would be easier in terms of changing a roller as opposed to changing out a lambswool. Does it leave an "orange peel" texture when you roll it?
steve albert if, you are going to use a roller. Use a 120 micron microfiber roller from Pallman or Loba. It rolls out the smoothest and has the least amount of splattering.
steve albert, we currently use Poloplaz Primero for our oil base finishes. It has a better build and more durability compared to The Bona Woodline in the video.
We used Bona's blue candy striped roller in this video. A 120 micron microfiber roll is a better option. Less slings, splatter and loose fibers. Bona, Loba and Pallman makes them. Cost around $15 per roller.
When you mix poly with a little thinner and a little experience you could throw it out the can in any direction and get it leveled right with a roller of choice
I’m about to do my floors, love the advise and tips
I do painting I see your cuts you put around the edges so you didn’t have to tape off.. That was a smart idea & to paint it on instead of killing your back was genius.
can you explain what you mean?
@@86753091974 he means that he went around the edges, probably with a natural bristle brush if it is oil based poly and synthetic if water based, to "cut" the edges. This is a term commonly used in painting to mean the same thing which is when you use a brush or similar tool to get the very edges of whatever youre painting so you don't need to use the roller to go all the way to the edge which would require taping off the perimeter so it doesn't get poly on it (in all actuality it shouldn't matter because typically you would remove any baseboard, then apply poly, then put baseboard back on which would cover any poly that accidentally got on lower couple inches of wall anyway)
Looks really good! Make sure to open your windows!🤠
Thank you champ
I'll be tackling this project this weekend
👍🙏
How did it go?
can i apply this on wood-look-like ceramic floor tiles? or just for wood floor only?
wow, zero details. Water based? Oil based? Nap of roller?
Great job on your video.
Thank you!
Nice work and yes the candy stripe Wooster roller works just fine for poly and floors.
stp479 lo
I guess that works. I would use a lambswool applicator for oil based poly.
... did you run tape along the baseboard or something?
Thanks again for sharing Ken
We just cut in with a china sash brush, no taping.
How long does it take for each coat to dry?
What kind of paint is this, please? How to buy it at home depot. thank you
Buenísimo, que tipo de rodillo usa?
good video!
BEAUTIFUL...
How often can u lay the poly , like i want my floors shiny all the time 🤔 .... also abt how long does tht shine last ???
can I use lamb wool instead and work it the same way as using a roller ?? can I overlap the areas using lamb wool as he is doing with roller?
Yes, you can. You will need to remove all the loose lambs wool fiber. Lambs wool tend to shed a lot. Keep your strokes in a straight line and the same direction as the length of the flooring. You cannot brush across the width of the floor boards or across the grain. Brush strokes will show up on your finish.
I'm going to refinish wood floors in my new house they have been under carpet for 40 years I'm not sure what type of finish I should use what do you feel is the best thanks
It depends on the look you are after. For a traditional amber look, 3 coats of Poloplaz Primero is my top choice for oil base.Primero has a very high film build and offers great floor protection. For water base, Loba's Supra AT ceramic finish. The ceramic is more scuff resistant compared to acrylic water base finishes. If, you like the hand rubbed oil look, I like using Pallman's Magic Oil with Rubio being my second choice.
This is amazing. Many say using roller for finish will cause bubbles. How bubbles can be avoided using this method?
It doesn't
That's it? came out niceeee
I have bamboo floors. Will it work on them? I've tried almost everything and i still have dull floors
If, your finish is still good and you are dealing with a dull shine. You will need to strip the cleaning residue build up. Use a "concentrated" grade hardwood floor cleaner to bring back the original shine. It is much stronger, will strip cleaning residue build up - which is causing it to dull, ph neutral, won't streak or dull compared to wood floor cleaners available for daily spruce ups. Bona makes one, check the label for "concentrate".
www.bona.com/en-US/Bona-Professional/Products/Floor-Care/Cleaners1/Bona-Pro-Series-Hardwood-Floor-Cleaner-Concentrate/
If, recoating is needed. You will need to do a deep clean to remove cleaning residue and waxes, buff (abrade with 220 grit sandpaper), apply a bond enhancer and then apply a durable water base finish to go over the prefinished bamboo flooring.
Are you using water base polly or solvent based polly? Do you ever have issues with bubbles with either?
If, you're having bubbles with either. The main cause will be prep work: sanding and cleaning. Sanding: make your final cut at 120 grit. A smooth surface finish will make vacuuming more efficient and help your finish level and smooth out. Tampico Brush: Use a tampico brush to loosen dust from the raw wood fibers prior to vacuuming and tacking. Fine dust trapped in the fibers will create bubbles in the finish. You can google gandswoodfloors and see a lot of my work under G & S floor service lynn, ma. I stop posting to my website, too many content thieves.
Overall my floor looks great..
However I have a few spots the bubbled up and did not thin out currently
How do I correct this??
You can spot fix by sanding with 220 grit and re-coat with a brush. If, you have heavy bubbles, use a razor scraper to lightly knock it down before sanding.
t-bar is a great way to do it puts on the perfect coat everytime
what is a t-bar?
+ROGER WILSON a t-bar is a applicator that you can use for waterbase or polyurethane ....just google it you'll see in my opinion best way to coat any floor!!
T-bar isn't practical on a floor with large gaps between boards. You lose your puddle soaking down into the cracks. It isn't always practical to fill gaps with wood filler either so that you could use a T-bar applicator.
Would you recommend this method on applying bona nordic?
This method will work with Bona Nordic Seal. Be sure to apply the proper coverage and feather out start and stop points, along with keeping a wet edge. Nordic Seal has white pigments in it, which will be visible, if, you do not feather out your S&S points. Nordic Seal will set up fast, if, you apply a thin coat and you will end up with unwanted lap marks. Keeping a wet edge is critical. Always follow manufacturer's recommendation and guidelines for application.
Do you apply waterbase poly the same way? what brand/type of roller cover do you use with water poly?
Water base is done backwards. You would pour the finish into a wet edge and roll the finish towards you, then forward and feather (lift) up. For water base, I recommend using a 1/4" nap 14" microfiber roller by Arroworthy. The handle will support both sides of the roller, which will allow for even flow. Much more balanced and faster. A 9" roller has a heavy side, which cause overflow or ridges in the finishes. More work with a 9" roller.
Hey can I use this for my wood looking cermaic tiles? Ive cleaned my floor many times but it dries dull. I want shinee . Please replyy asap.
Now that you are rolling Poloplaz Primero, are you using that on all 3 passes or are using the Poloplaz sealer on the first pass?
We apply three coats of Primero, no sealer. Don't need the extra chemicals in the truck.
Didn’t it have the roller marks in the floor like on the wall? I tried it but had indentation of the roller in poly. How’d you address that?
Make sure your working temperature is between 70-80 degree. The finish is acclimated to room temperature. You are applying proper coverage, do not overwork the product. Eliminate air flow, until after you are complete. You are using a 3/8" nap microfiber roller with either 80 or 120 micron. Arrow Worthy can be purchased at any paint stores.
Satin or semi gloss?
hello, i applied my 1st coat of poly using a lambswool applicator. it was a disaster. i hand buffed everything down with 220 grit sandpaper and rolled the poly using 3/8" nap purdy ulta finish microfiber roller. Finish came out really good, beside minor imperfections. Again i sanded everything down with 220 and reapplied a 3rd coat with a new purdy ultra finish microfiber roller. Finish came out better than coat number 2. My last coat #4, i decided to use a new roller brand 1/4" home depot premium smooth finish roller, because I read somewhere that 1/4" would give me glass like finish. Big disaster again, many pebble like bubbles. I just finished hand sanding everything again with the 220. But i still see the pebble like bubbles; they have been flattened but I still see them. Question, Will is see these imperfections when I add the last (hopefully) #5 coat?
This my materials:
Varathane Clear Gloss 350 VOC Oil-Based Floor Finish Polyurethane high traffic fast drying formula ( i added 6.4 ounces mineral spirits/gallon)
pole sander
hand sander
purdy ultra finish roller (loews)
Incidentally, MFG does not recommend thinning or rolling for that matter.
I am just a homeowner, I never refinished my floors before so this is a first/and maybe last time i did this...
Any help would be much appreciated.
Joe
Hi Joseph, If, the mfg. does not recommend rolling their product. That indicates that it has poor leveling agent. To combat this, using a thin nap roller and pouring a large puddle of finish onto the floor helps. Arroworthy 1/4" microfiber roller is ideal. A fairly heavy coverage needs to be applied to avoid roller marks, such as orange peel effect. Otherwise, you will need to apply a thin coat using a lambswool.
Regarding your bubbles, You need to sand the existing bubbles flat. Remnance will show through the next coating. You can use a hand held orbital with 220 grit. Afterwards, clean, clean, clean. Vacuum and tack until no dust transfers onto your hand when touched. Clean off dust from your clothes and footwear. Clean off baseboards, doors and windows. Clean adjacent areas, such as halls and rooms. Eliminate moving air, moving air will transfer dust and particles onto the finish. The bubbles are from dust particles, not the finish. Cleaning will be key to getting a bubble free result.
Been battling the same nonsense. Used the home depot 7" poly applicator specifically for woof floors. I can see e every single spot where I tried to lap the previous Area. Jokes. You can't notice it while you're doing it but when you check on it in the morning after it has dried you're like what the fuck this still looks like ass... all over again. I'm about to tell the wife deal with it.
@Al Rutherford so long story short....I tried actual poly on one floor with the dumb wool applicator. Looks like crap still but put an area rug over it. Tadaa, done.
But there is a product called rejuvenate that comes with 3 pads, the wand and pad head. The product itself is sold alone. I used that on a different floor after thoroughly cleaning and performing a lighting sanding by hand in the direcrion of the grain and the floor looks damn door. No over lap marks, no crap stuck in the finish, etc. I would recommend that product for finishing a wood floor. It works on other surfaces, but they sell different solutions for different flooring materials. It is not a substitute for a full deep sanding that gets down to fresh wood material with a fresh finish with stain/poly, but it's damn decent for the money. 50 bucks to refinish an entire floor plus my labor.
Sand everything down start over...
You put poly on using a T bar and pour method if you don't want bubbles, rollers leave bubbles period, wool you have to be consistent and directional equally which takes more skill than a T bar ironically lol...
But if you want that pro look, you got to do what a pro does, or pay that dude... You should get it down by room 3 😂
can i use on laminate floors? i have new laminate floors and they are dull looking they need something . what do you recomend?
You will have to check with your manufacturer. Some will allow you to use floor polish, not polyurethane.
Dont use poly on laminate flooring.
Would this work on an outside wood deck that's this size?
No, not for decking stain. The product dries too fast. You will end up with roller marks. Best thing to do is to spray the stain and back brush with a pad to equalize it, so it is uniform.
I am having my hardwood sanded and finished tomorrow, they are using waterborne finish. Since I purchased my home 20 years ago, this is the first time I am doing this, I have been delaying it because emptying the home is a total pain in the arse, specially having to move everything by myself without any help. I have been told lately that waterborne finish is not near as durable as "old school" solvent based stuff, so I am a bit concerned... the contractor said he is aplying three coats. I live alone, no kids and no pets, so the floors are not going to suffer a harsh life. What do you guys think? Thanks.
Hal , that is a myth. Today's water base poly is better than the oil base poly. You want to use the high end stuff like bona traffic HD or loba Supra AT. These will outperform oil base poly.
I use waterborne a lot, it s great finish. Durable
@@gerlofboy2011 hi there what type of water base do you use. Name if you give would be appreciated
Rigostep 2k or pallmann x98 or bona traffic HD 2k. Rigostep step i use most of time.. butt not everywhere availleble
Does some knows what is the best thing to seal new hardwoods? I’m trying to avoid sanding.
For a no-sanding system, you can use the Bona Restore system: Deep clean with remover and rinse to remove contaminants, apply Bona Prep and recoat with Bona Traffic HD.
Doing a light sand with 220 grit before applying your coating is best. This will help remove some imperfections.
Love doin a buff, vacum, coat on a weekend. Eassyy money
What do you define as "high quality polyurethane "? I rolled on Minwax on my pantry shelves and had dried bubbles everywhere! Had to tip it off next coat with fine brush after sanding bubbles smooth
Use a product with high solids and quality solvents, that levels and don't stink. Poloplaz Primero or Supreme, Bona Woodline or Glitsa 500 for oil base polyurethanes
I have laminate floors, can I apply polyurethane lacquer to get a high gloss finish?
No poly is allowed on laminate floors. Check with the manufacturer. Some may allow a polish to be applied to it.
Do you soak the roller in thinner as you would a lambswool?
The roller is stored in the finish.
Thanks for the answer-but I wasn't clear, do you presoak in thinner before use as you would lambswool? I do store in the poly, that works well vs daily cleaning or wrapping in plastic bags as I do with latex paintbrushes.
No, we do not presoak in thinner. Directly into the oil base poly. We use new sets for latex, a 3 pack 3/8 nap microfiber roller under $10. Nylon brushes at $10-$13 each. Have one for sealers and two for poly. This helps prevent cross-contamination. Applicators are already included in the pricing.
What's the best way to clean your roller after you're done?
5 in 1 tool to scrape particles off. Otherwise, we store it in finish, for the next job. Water base finish in clean water, oil base in oil finish. Everything else gets disposed: moisture cure & tung oil. Any applicators that are contaminated with particles and bad finish, gets tossed out and replaced. It's not unusual for us to use a new set for each job. Keeping the applicators particle free is more important for us. This prevents particles from being redeposited to the finish. It's always good to have a set for the first 2 coats and 1 set for the final for three coats of oil base poly. If, you use sealers, have a separate set for the sealer to prevent cross contamination.
Rollers are cheap, just toss it and use a new one next time!
It's not worth the hassle of cleaning it, unless it's a special kind that is expensive or hard to find!!
@@michaelnobibux2886bruh its been 2 years since u left this comment.. I hope you learned ur lesson
I wonder if BlackMill authorized the sample usage of their song?
Did you get micro bubbles using the roller? Was it water based or oil based polyurethane?
Also would you know the color name of the grey paint on the wall?
Our coatings lay out smooth. Room, floor, finish temperature, airflow and coverage is important. This helps the finish level itself out. The orange peel and bubbles will pop and level itself.
The nap on your roller maybe too thick. 3/8 nap is a good thickness. Also, control your room temperature and airflow.
In the video we applied oil base poly. Sorry, I do not know the color of the paint other than it is a Ben Moore paint. This was a clients property.
What kind/type of roller do I use for applying the sealer?
Good quality wool roller
@@JohnJohnson-my8zg I believe i am going to go with the Woodster mohair blend, perhaps a 12"
Kinda fast. How much spray off the roller onto the walls at the end of your strokes?
None, I stop short on the first pass. When I equalize it on the second pass, the roller is slowed down towards the wall.
Other than enhancing the appearance of the floor, does the coats also make it more water resistant?
Yes-polyurethane is actually a plastic, so it is excellent for that purpose.
How long should you wait for it to dry before putting on a second and third coat?
For water base, re-coating can be done after 4 hours with 70 degree temperature. For oil base, wait at least 20 hours with 70 degree temperature. Humidity and room temperature will either slow or speed up drying time. Pay attention to your working conditions.
GandSwoodfloors.com thank you. What should I think if a wood floor company says they can apply 3 coats in one day and it will be fine to walk on after 8hours? It seems like it should take a week of going back and forth to really do a good job.
@@drinny26 How many square feet is involved? What type of finish? It sounds like a water base system.
If, you are talking about 200 sq. ft. That is doable for a 12 hour work day. I recommend telling them to only apply 2 coats max in one 8 hour day and have them make another trip for the final. The longer the finish dries in-between coats, the better. You will avoid poly beads in the joints. And they can give it a good buffing to smooth out the finish, when the finish is allowed more time to harden. Make sure they're following the manufacturer's guidelines for dry time and re-application.
I don't see a reason why they need to rush the coating. Unless, they under bid the project or have a long travel time.
GandSwoodfloors.com thank you so much for the info:)
How many coats did you have to make on the room before it was good and sealed ?
Three coats of oil base polyurethane
Thank you
We gave the coatings 18 hours or more to dry, before abrading it. Room temperature was at 75 degrees.
Yes, you can walk on the floor without damaging it, avoid dragging your feet.
Two hours is a minimum recommendation from the mfg. under perfect drying conditions. If, you do not have perfect drying conditions, give it 4 to 6 hours minimum, before abrading and re-coating.
what kind of roller and what kind of sealer did you use (brand )?
In the video, a blue candy stripe Bona roller was used, along with Bona woodbine oil base polyurethane. No sealer was used in this video.
For roller, I recommend using Arroworthy 1/4" nap microfiber roller for oil or water base finish. Better value with great results. I use a new roller for each coat. Rollers are a one time use to prevent cross contamination and particle transfer onto a final coat.
I am using Bona Mega One on new stairs with red oak. Do I need to put on sealer of any kind before applying Poly?
It depends on what you are trying to achieve. If, you applied a stain. No sealer is needed. If, it is a natural red oak look. You will want to use a sealer for better build, prevent side bonding and panelization. You can use it without a stain. This would be dependent on how well you prepped your wood surface. A rough surface would make application difficult and you would get improper film build needed for proper performance. Recommended surface finish is 150 grit for proper performance.
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn Thanks for quick reply. I am going for all natural look so what kind of sealer would work best? It would be nice if I can pick some up from one of the big box stores. First time doing this so thank you for your advise.
@@kgnok2020 It depends on the color you want. Bona has five different sealers, ranging from white to yellow. Visit their site for more information: Bona.com You can use any of those. Bona Mega also, has a slight ambering color, since it is a oil-modified type polyurethane.
What's the best roller to use ..like Wooster or Purdy? Also do you know the nap ? Thx
Best rollers to use is 120 microns(fiber thickness) microfiber roller by Pallman or Loba. It's a universal roller, made for oil and water base. Not sure if, Wooster or Purdy makes a 120 micron microfiber roller. Although, they do make microfiber rollers. I believe it's 80 microns, thinner and loose fibers, which will leave more of an orange peel texture, when used with polyurethane. So, it would be critical to use a self leveling polyurethane.
GandSwoodfloors.com ok, thx man
What roller type? Nap? Brush type? Would make the video more informative.
Microfiber roller cover and white China bristle brush 👍
It's got to be 3/8 in nap
What kind of roller are u using? Not the stick part only the roller.
Blue candy stripe microfiber roller. Use Arroworthy 1/4" nap microfiber roller, best value compared to Loba, Bona and Pallmann's roller. Available in 9, 14 and 18" lengths, can be used for both oil and water base finishes. I use the 14" for easy maneuvering and speed. 9" roller takes too long to apply finish and is heavy on one side due to the handle. 18" roller can miss spots if, the floor is not perfectly flat. 14" roller is perfect. It's inexpensive, I use new rollers for every coat to prevent cross contamination. Especially, for 2 part water base finishes.
I really like the colors of the wall. would you happen to know the info about this color?
Sorry No, I'm not sure what the home owner use, other than it was a Ben Moore regal paint.
yeah theyre gray
Hi Aroldo - a little late but I believe it might be Black Pepper. Looks identical to our bedroom colour.
Edges are done with a brush???
Yes, edges was done with a brush
how do you protect the floor from scraping
Wipe shoes or remove, sweep, vacuum, use mats in high traffic and install felt pads on all furniture legs.
Oil based poly? what type roller, cabinet nap?
Yes, oil base poly. Use Loba or Pallman's 120 micron microfiber roller - $15 each. 3/8" nap. You can sub with Arroworthy 3/8" nap microfiber paint roller, but be aware of splatter and slings when rolling. You will need to slow down your rolling along walls. Slings and splatter created by the handle type.
can you use this on tables also ?
Unless you know how to do a spray application, best method for furntiures is just to wipe on with a lambs wool. Just remove any loose fibers, before doing so.
So many questions on here. Do you sleep?
I just redid my floor usimg a roller with polyurethane. 24 hrs later its shiny but also rough to the touch, its not smooth
The smoothness of the polyurethane will depend on how well your abrasion and cleaning is done. If, not done well, it show through on your final coat. To fix the issue, you will need to abrade, clean, tack and re-coat.
did you sand the floor first or is it ok to apply on a clean floor
This was a final(third) coat application. The floor was fully sanded with a final cut at 120 grit. Then sanded in between coats with 220 grit to remove raised grains and rough finish, clean, tack and coated.
best to sand the floor first
Really? I like the look of a 120 grit sanded floor after I put a finish on. Adds more grip to walk on!
what is the secret to keep tiny bubbles from the roller ? thank you
There are several factors that needs to be considered to avoid bubbles.
You need a clean and flat floor. This helps the finish to level and pop the tiny bubbles. A clean flat floor will start with your sanding. Sand the floor using manufacturer's or NWFA sanding guidelines. Make sure there are no dish outs, deep scratches. gouges or rough areas. These imperfections will trap dust in the wood fibers, making it difficult to remove and clean. It also, makes it way into your applicators and back onto the floor in clumps of bubbles. Having a flat floor will make it easy to clean in-between coatings. Reducing your chances of bubbles.
A tool you can add to your artillery of cleaning tools is a tampico brush (disc) for your buffer. Using a tampico brush prior to vacuuming the raw wood will help remove any fine dust in the wood fibers. So if, you have any of the imperfections mentioned above. This tool will clean up in those hard to reach areas. You would use this tool only once during the sanding process. And that is prior to vacuuming. Do not use this tool in-between coats. It will slick up the floor finish and close up the abrasion.
Repeatedly using a old applicator will also cause bubbles. Old applicators will collect debris and contaminants from previous coatings and transfer it to your current one. Replacing it with new clean applicators will reduce the chances of bubbles.
For oil base, I would replace it after 5000 sf. of coating. Sooner if, it yields signs of bad results. For water base, i use a new roller for every coat. This helps avoid cross contamination with sealers, one components, two components and different hardeners. You cannot re-catalize a old finish. If, you have remnants of old finish in the applicators. It will cause issues, including bubbles.
Thank you, was that oil base ?
Yes, it is oil base poly.
probably throwing sprikles all over base and wall rolling that fast
What kind of polyurethane did you use? Water based?
This is oil base polyurethane.
why did you done the one spot so many times
Rolling back and forth using a "W" pattern makes it look like I rolled the same spot a lot. I made two passes in all areas, except where i overlapped.
What’re you 12 feet tall?
Alyss Kennedy lol, I thought the same thing
Lmfao
Looks great, Do you know if polyurethane is still highly flammable once dry.?
Polyurethane is combustible not flammable.
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn is polyurethane combustible still when it's dryed on a floor?
@@dazpeat8404 Polyurethane is only combustible in a liquid form, not solid. When it is dry, it is a solid form.
@@dazpeat8404 Correction, some polyurethane are flammable, such as moisture cure finishes. It should be labeled on the side of the can if it is. It should have a flame symbol for flammable or combustible But, most is combustible. Lacquer sealers are flammable.
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn yes it's got flammable on tin, its a hardglaze polyurethane gloss I've used. Wondering if it's flammable still when it's dried on a floor.
Whats the best roller to use for that? Thanks
1/4 nap microfiber roller from Arroworthy
And good work love ya style 👍
Will a roller work with oil based poly?
Yes, you can roll both waterborne and oil base polyurethane. The most common mistakes made is not applying the proper coverage, improper sanding and abrasion. If, you do not apply enough, you will end up with roller marks. Improper sanding and abrasion will give you bad results - lines, bibles and rough spots. Use a microfiber roller for both types of finish.
Can i apply this on my laminated flooring??
No, not to laminates like Pergo. You will need to contact the manufacturer and see what they recommend. It's usually a polish.
How long did it take to dry?
This is oil base polyurethane. It takes 24 hours to dry.
rolling polyurethane will make it beaded (small air bubbles", its best to use a t bar !!, read the manufactors recomendations !!
The Poly I bought said a roller is fine.
😂😂
Lol
Bona themselves told me to use a roller, depends on flooring.
Did this with short nap roller millions of bubbles did not flash off and go away be ware
What is the best roller to get?
120 micron microfiber roller is the best to use. Loba, Pallmann and Bona makes it. If, you are not able to obtain one. Use Arrow Worthy's 3/8" nap microfiber roller. It can be purchased at any paint store, except for the big box stores.
Why don’t any of these videos specify the exact type of roller they are using considering its dozens of different types of rollers on the market
how many coats did you use???
Three coats of Bona Woodline satin oil base polyurethane.
What are the dimensions of the roller you are using?
In the video I used Bona's 9" microfiber roller. I since have switched to Arroworthy's 1/4" nap x 14" microfiber roller. I find it does a better job, quicker and less expensive.
Hi I all ready did that but my family didn’t like it,so I need to take it off,can I ?what should I use please answer me and thank you
I need more details regarding your answer. What did they not like: finish, color, shine?
It’s shine and I don’t like it
Abrade the finish with 220 grit, clean, tack and re-apply your finish
what's the brand of this polyurethane and where did you purchase it nice vid
The brand is Bona. The product line is Wood line. You will need to find a dealer in your area.
H
Isn't the roller slinging polyurethane all over the walls and baseboards?
To avoid the slinging, slow down near and around walls. If, you are still slinging at the walls from the middle of the room. Spread the finish out more before you start to roll. It can be the handle you are using also.
Not loading the roller properly and working the poly to much. Not enough product been applied and not even cutting in with a brush around the skirtings.
Is that oil or water polyurethane?
This is oil base poly - Bona Woodline
This is a great method if you want a nice consistent orange peel effect...
If you're a flooring contractor then you really need to know how to use a T-bar to apply finish.
I roll finish every day! Use a good quality wool roller and it levels perfectly. I have no issues unless you use the cheap rollers.
@@daleturner3507 Do you thin your Poly?
nobaddog1 no I use Lenmar Satin Poly straight from the quart can. You have to use a good quality low nap roller. I use red rollers from Sherwin Williams. I’ve done thousands of floors in the past 23 years.
@@daleturner3507 Mr Turner I'm looking to roll my clear gloss polyurethane oil base onto my hardwood floors! As far as what nap roller to use is it okay to use 3/8 or should I use quarter inch or something thank you in advance
@@djkingpersia I use a 3/16” or a mohair one from Sherwin Williams. I’d stick to the 1/4 if that’s what you can get.
Can u do this on a ceiling?
Yes, you can but, you cannot use a flooring finish. The product will run and drip. Also, you will need to back brush on a ceiling. Other types of polyurethane will not self-level, like polyurethanes for wood flooring.
what kind of roller ? 1/4",3/16, 3/8" etc?
You should use a 1/4" mohair roller.
The one used in the video is a 1/4" nap mohair roller. We've since, switched to a microfiber roller made by Pallman - 120 micro, 1/2" nap. It is much smoother and will not release particles onto the wood finish. It is a universal roller made for water base and oil base solvent. Reduced splattering, also.
Thanks for the info!
Looks so easy, great video.
Bona Pacific roller: 3/8" nap blue candy stripe
Hey , this leaves bubbles on my floor. It’s dry & now my floors are bumpy
What brand did you use? What type of roller? How much was applied? What was the room temperature? What was the sanding schedule for sanding grits? What was the final grit? How was the floor cleaned?
@@Gandswoodfloorslynn It would have been useful for you to answer all those questions in the video. Anybody can figure out how to use a roller, but without understanding ALL the steps and details necessary to get a proper finish, the results will almost certainly be disappointing.
@DB Cooper's MoneyBags Which guy are you saying is the amateur, the one who asked the question or the guy who made the video? There is a ton of important information missing from the video, so if someone who's never done this before uses this video as their only guide, they will run into issues.
Do I need to sand after the first coat of polyurethane?
Yes, You need to sand in between coats with 220 grit sandpaper. This will smooth out the surface and promote adhesion.
GandSwoodfloors.com hand sander or sanding block by hand?
If, you are just buffing the edges. Hand sanding is best, you can work along the surface without missing a spot. Block sanders tend to miss, especially if, your original sanding isn't perfectly flat. Also, block sanders don't alway fit under heaters and radiators. Whereas your fingers will.
what kind of roller?
The one in the video is a Bona roller.
how about mohair?
Did you forget the closet?
Community,
Is a little better way to do this you use a sponge mop you don't get the bubbles and it's about as fast...
Thanks for sharing look forward to hearing from you.
I also have a how to channel showing different things as well.
I'll be checking out more of your videos. and thanks God bless Ken look forward to hearing from you.
You will end up with a thinner film build using a sponge or T-bar. You get a much higher build with a roller. There is no wrong way to apply it, if, you are getting consistent quality results.
We are currently working on another video for rolling poly. Different pattern, much faster than the one shown here. It will be out soon.
I did this with water based polyurethane and I didn't run into any bubble problems whatsoever. However, when I dipped the roller into the poly and fully submerged it, a few drops fell off as I moved the roller to the area I was working on. What happened is the outer ring of the drops dried almost instantly. After I got done rolling the floor and it dried I saw a bunch of tiny rings in the finish where the drops had originally fallen. Only way to prevent this is to have a towel between your bucket of poly and application area that will catch the drips. Almost becomes a 2 man job with water based because it dries so fast.
Hi Jay19, For water base, the best thing to do is to put straight out of the bottle. The handle will not be dripping with finish. You will avoid slings and drips off the handle. Eliminate all air movement, hot spots ,low room temperature and coat in small sections, avoid getting too far ahead with the edges. Another tip, roll the edges first, cut in and then go over with the roller again to keep the edges wet.
What color is the floor
white oak coated with clear oil base poly, no stain
GandSwoodfloors.com is that a true clear ? Or does it have the yellow tint that oil bases have versus water base!
Have you ever rolled Dura Seal oil base?
steve albert no, have never used their polyurethane, only their stains
Thanks. Ive been using their finishes with a lambswool for 20 + years and am interested in rolling. It seems like it would use less materials (thinner to store the lambswool in) and like it would be easier in terms of changing a roller as opposed to changing out a lambswool. Does it leave an "orange peel" texture when you roll it?
What product do you use for oil base poly?
steve albert if, you are going to use a roller. Use a 120 micron microfiber roller from Pallman or Loba. It rolls out the smoothest and has the least amount of splattering.
steve albert, we currently use Poloplaz Primero for our oil base finishes. It has a better build and more durability compared to The Bona Woodline in the video.
the wax smell is so bad . I have to keep the ALL windows open for days .
If only we could paint our ceilings this easy.
wow why so many fisheyes?
What kind of roller do you recommend?
Does a how to vid.. yet no mention of product or what roller he used... smh
how long does this take to dry?
24 hours
What brand roller did u use?
We used Bona's blue candy striped roller in this video. A 120 micron microfiber roll is a better option. Less slings, splatter and loose fibers. Bona, Loba and Pallman makes them. Cost around $15 per roller.
ok,so coat 3/4 of room with the grain, then the last 1/4 across the grain in any ole direction..gotcha
When you mix poly with a little thinner and a little experience you could throw it out the can in any direction and get it leveled right with a roller of choice