Thanks for showing this. Cistern has been leaking into loo and that has hit our water loo. Turned into a bit of mare as the loo was poorly fitted years back and over the years the metal plate had completely rusted so had ceased so had to cut the old plastic nut\housing off with a jigsaw. Also had to use the additional black seal as larger opening. All fitted, dry and good. Only mistake was the overflow is tight with the filling arm. And er no I am not a plumber - I work in IT so this really helped.
I just fitted this kit and it was not a 30 min job. Be prepared to wrestle with old rusty bolts. I had to use an angle grinder to get a bolt out. The fill valve washer supplied isn't the best and I have the pro series kit with the brass end. When I got it all together the fill valve would not stop flowing and so I watched another video that provided the answer. I had to open the top off the fill valve and twist and release to get to the washer underneath. I gave it a quick wash and I was finished. Never underestimate these so called straight forward DIY projects.
Tracy from South Africa says Thank you!!!! soooo much for the help, my husband just passed away and all that could go wrong has.. I've managed to sort all out, was just this crazy toilet that had me flustered....Lol and so i enlisted and internet husband to show me how...Lol!!! and now i can brag about it... Thank you
In my experience, a bead of silicone on the washer is essential as the interior surface of the cistern is usually too rough to provide a good seal with the washer alone. Also, for those struggling with setting the flush volumes, the level of the slider is the level at which the valve will close (not obvious until you've played around with it for a while). Also, the doughnut washer between the cistern and the pan will likely need replacing after having had a water-filled cistern sitting on top of it for a number of years. In some such cases, be prepared to drill fresh holes in the wall to screw the cistern to it as it might be in a different position with the new washer. And the threaded pipe of the flush valve will need some persuasion to go through the metal washer of the close coupling kit, but it will go (and the editor's decision is final). This is a five-minute job that could well last all day.
They always show you how to install these things in a perfect environment, no walls or basin nearby etc. I have to do the plumbing for my job when necessary and firstly i think these valves are great, better than the old syphons but believe me in a real life situation it's not always that easy, i know this man is showing you how to install it but it's when things are a bit more cramped it can be a bit of a nuisance. Firstly some of the old close coupling plates can be rusty and a job to get out and cutting the bolts is the only option. Sometimes you isolate the ballafix and it starts dripping at the slot and when you put the new float valve in there could be a gap between the swivel and the thread and you have to start altering the pipework or even if the thread is the right length something might not line up and doesn't seal properly and drips when the water is turned back on, of course this is if rigid copper pipe is used. I did one the other day and the black seal on the float valve just wouldn't seal against the croc, maybe due to a bump in the ceramic and it was hard to get to to undo it as it was close to the wall, but i do think these float valves are great also, but just be aware of problems you can come across which aren't always shown on these videos
I replaced my faulty, leaky, dripping flush. When I removed the old one all the threads had plumbers mate, silicone and ptfe all over them.. I put all the new parts in with none of the above, tightened them just enough and haven't had a single problem. 4 years good. Call me sad but I love watching plumbing videos😅
Thank You so much never fitted one before took a little time but your video, was so much help, i woul advise people to watch video and no instructions, Thanks !!!!!!!
Would be Better if you had the Full setup, this included Inlet as well, anyone can screw in a middle piece, what the average person needs is Full install,
the info you get, tells you to change the washer, if it's a 60 diameter hole.. fair enough..BUT it should stay to put the lip downward, also ? pic in instructions doesn't give any indication.. so I will ring up in the morning to know 100%
I bought this but I got a 2inch outward flow, old cistern that cannot be changed without buying a whole new system, it says there’s a 2inch adapter but how does that work? Thank in advance
Can anyone tell me if the water keeps on flowing after flushing on a Flowmaster that has been in the system for a few years, on purchasing a new one, do I need to replace the fitting metal bracket and the rest, or can I simply remove the Top part and refitting the new one top flush part, thanks in advance.
No there is no need to use silicone sealant. The pack used in the video is PROCP01 and has two bolt sets in it. The bolt set used in the video with the plate contains M8x50mm bolts, the other bolt set for bolting through the bottom of the cistern contains M6x80mm bolts. Hope this helps!
this will break anyway, make no mistake by thinking the brand will help. The chrome (plastic) button bottom is very weak and will break before anniversary of the installation like mine did. Shame didn't think about keeping receipt so at least they have some feedback what kind of crap plastic they supply for the crucial element that need to withstand pushed button presure.
Question about the push button. How can I fit this so the button is flush with the lid? I can remove the collar but then it is too small for the hole. I have to mount the whole thing on top. Thanks
Mmmm....easy when fitting a new system into a new cistern right in front of you with easy to get to nuts etc BUT a totally different task taking out an old system (installed by a gorilla!) from a cistern bolted to the wall!!!! Any and all solutions gratefully accepted!!!
I had the same with mine.. the cistern bolts were rusted, so couldn't be removed. I had to take a hacksaw and a dremel to get them out.. took ages. the wall holes should be easy enough to access.. but the ones at the back of the toilet bowl took ages to cut off. and be careful as obviously you need to take care not to damage the toilet itself
Very poor hard to read fitting instructions. Hard to read and even with magnifying glass you are no wiser. Big problems with leaks through the outlet if you do not fit the proper seal on it and match to the pan. Note in this video he is left with a gap between the cistern and back of pan shelf after installation. My bolt fixings were through holes in the cistern base so the video using the metal plate was irrelevant to me. Even with rubber seals around bolts through cistern base I had a serious leak after installation involving taking the installation out again. How and where to fit the doughnut seal - where - inside/ out- flat bit up or below. I think the product is good but the illustrations/ information poor. Fluidmaster please use more paper and bigger illustrations representing the actual parts supplied. No point in using a see through cistern on a non matching WC pan.
Thanks for showing this. Cistern has been leaking into loo and that has hit our water loo. Turned into a bit of mare as the loo was poorly fitted years back and over the years the metal plate had completely rusted so had ceased so had to cut the old plastic nut\housing off with a jigsaw. Also had to use the additional black seal as larger opening. All fitted, dry and good. Only mistake was the overflow is tight with the filling arm. And er no I am not a plumber - I work in IT so this really helped.
I just fitted this kit and it was not a 30 min job. Be prepared to wrestle with old rusty bolts. I had to use an angle grinder to get a bolt out. The fill valve washer supplied isn't the best and I have the pro series kit with the brass end. When I got it all together the fill valve would not stop flowing and so I watched another video that provided the answer. I had to open the top off the fill valve and twist and release to get to the washer underneath. I gave it a quick wash and I was finished. Never underestimate these so called straight forward DIY projects.
Tracy from South Africa says Thank you!!!! soooo much for the help, my husband just passed away and all that could go wrong has.. I've managed to sort all out, was just this crazy toilet that had me flustered....Lol and so i enlisted and internet husband to show me how...Lol!!! and now i can brag about it... Thank you
In my experience, a bead of silicone on the washer is essential as the interior surface of the cistern is usually too rough to provide a good seal with the washer alone. Also, for those struggling with setting the flush volumes, the level of the slider is the level at which the valve will close (not obvious until you've played around with it for a while).
Also, the doughnut washer between the cistern and the pan will likely need replacing after having had a water-filled cistern sitting on top of it for a number of years. In some such cases, be prepared to drill fresh holes in the wall to screw the cistern to it as it might be in a different position with the new washer. And the threaded pipe of the flush valve will need some persuasion to go through the metal washer of the close coupling kit, but it will go (and the editor's decision is final).
This is a five-minute job that could well last all day.
They always show you how to install these things in a perfect environment, no walls or basin nearby etc. I have to do the plumbing for my job when necessary and firstly i think these valves are great, better than the old syphons but believe me in a real life situation it's not always that easy, i know this man is showing you how to install it but it's when things are a bit more cramped it can be a bit of a nuisance. Firstly some of the old close coupling plates can be rusty and a job to get out and cutting the bolts is the only option. Sometimes you isolate the ballafix and it starts dripping at the slot and when you put the new float valve in there could be a gap between the swivel and the thread and you have to start altering the pipework or even if the thread is the right length something might not line up and doesn't seal properly and drips when the water is turned back on, of course this is if rigid copper pipe is used. I did one the other day and the black seal on the float valve just wouldn't seal against the croc, maybe due to a bump in the ceramic and it was hard to get to to undo it as it was close to the wall, but i do think these float valves are great also, but just be aware of problems you can come across which aren't always shown on these videos
Ace video guys. Great that Screwfix carry the replacement bits for these also. Excellent stuff
Thank you for the vid, just did this and your video helped calm my nerves
I replaced my faulty, leaky, dripping flush. When I removed the old one all the threads had plumbers mate, silicone and ptfe all over them.. I put all the new parts in with none of the above, tightened them just enough and haven't had a single problem. 4 years good. Call me sad but I love watching plumbing videos😅
This is the second one for the basement bat. ua-cam.com/users/postUgkxOuLt8IL_GxhhaK8DBuKEL-zV0UJVpWZn , works great
Thank You so much never fitted one before took a little time but your video, was so much help, i woul advise people to watch video and no instructions, Thanks !!!!!!!
easy to follow step by step instructions, Thanks for the video.
Thanks for the great video really helpful
Thanks for the installation video
Excellent, ta :)
Very educational...moving in soon!
Also, i have to order bolts the wing type nuts. Are the M6 50mm long?
How can you know. What size system you will need without taking everything thing off of the toilet?
Would be Better if you had the Full setup, this included Inlet as well, anyone can screw in a middle piece, what the average person needs is Full install,
Well explained . Wish I will find a retailer near by
Thank you very much
Proper video.
Is this a direct replacement for a push rod type of flush button on a low level standard type of loo?
the info you get, tells you to change the washer, if it's a 60 diameter hole.. fair enough..BUT it should stay to put the lip downward, also ? pic in instructions doesn't give any indication.. so I will ring up in the morning to know 100%
I bought this but I got a 2inch outward flow, old cistern that cannot be changed without buying a whole new system, it says there’s a 2inch adapter but how does that work? Thank in advance
Can anyone tell me if the water keeps on flowing after flushing on a Flowmaster that has been in the system for a few years, on purchasing a new one, do I need to replace the fitting metal bracket and the rest, or can I simply remove the Top part and refitting the new one top flush part, thanks in advance.
Thanks for the video. I am sold on Fluidmaster. Do we have to use any silicon to seal down the siphon or the water inlet?
No there is no need to use silicone sealant.
The pack used in the video is PROCP01 and has two bolt sets in it.
The bolt set used in the video with the plate contains M8x50mm bolts, the other bolt set for bolting through the bottom of the cistern contains M6x80mm bolts.
Hope this helps!
@@FluidmasterInc I thank you for your help. Thanks for replying, not many You Tubers do.
this will break anyway, make no mistake by thinking the brand will help. The chrome (plastic) button bottom is very weak and will break before anniversary of the installation like mine did. Shame didn't think about keeping receipt so at least they have some feedback what kind of crap plastic they supply for the crucial element that need to withstand pushed button presure.
Question about the push button. How can I fit this so the button is flush with the lid? I can remove the collar but then it is too small for the hole. I have to mount the whole thing on top. Thanks
Hello. Technical have requested would you be able to send a picture please - they are not sure they understand the problem
I need to replace the valve washer but can't seem to get the unit to twist out , any ideas of how I can release it ?
have the exact same problem
you need to take the cistern off the wall. and open the bottom bit (locking nut) off the unit / rubber ring. then you can access it / change it.
I’m having the same problem. Did you manage to twist it out?
where do you get that isolation valve from
Hi George, please email our U.K Help Desk directly for help finding the parts you need. E-mail help@fluidmaster.com.
Mmmm....easy when fitting a new system into a new cistern right in front of you with easy to get to nuts etc BUT a totally different task taking out an old system (installed by a gorilla!) from a cistern bolted to the wall!!!! Any and all solutions gratefully accepted!!!
I had the same with mine.. the cistern bolts were rusted, so couldn't be removed. I had to take a hacksaw and a dremel to get them out.. took ages. the wall holes should be easy enough to access.. but the ones at the back of the toilet bowl took ages to cut off. and be careful as obviously you need to take care not to damage the toilet itself
labatore
Very poor hard to read fitting instructions. Hard to read and even with magnifying glass you are no wiser. Big problems with leaks through the outlet if you do not fit the proper seal on it and match to the pan. Note in this video he is left with a gap between the cistern and back of pan shelf after installation. My bolt fixings were through holes in the cistern base so the video using the metal plate was irrelevant to me. Even with rubber seals around bolts through cistern base I had a serious leak after installation involving taking the installation out again. How and where to fit the doughnut seal - where - inside/ out- flat bit up or below. I think the product is good but the illustrations/ information poor. Fluidmaster please use more paper and bigger illustrations representing the actual parts supplied. No point in using a see through cistern on a non matching WC pan.