Interesting video. Some lovely shots with beautiful warm pastel colours. I see a couple of things that might be causing you some problems. 1. In the images at 19secs, 4m 19s, 4m 35s, 10m 09s and your seafoam 'streak' are all light leaks. Looks like its in the same spot about 1/3rd of the frame in from the left edge. Maybe the foam seals around the camera door are perishing, (a common problem on older cameras), maybe the camera back doesn't snap tight enough closed or maybe you loaded and unloaded the film in bright sun. 2. The shutter timing appears to be out of sync at certain shutter speeds, the shutter curtain is still moving across the exposed film whilst the camera is timing the exposure and the shutter curtain should be out of frame. Thats what the black bar is in images: 10m 19s, 2m 57s 3. The clouds/road/mountain image at 4 mins 26 defines how you need to think about using your film cameras. All pre 'logic' cameras meter the light in the image and present you with a setting that will perfectly replicate what is known as 'middle grey' or '18% grey' (look it up and then go and look at the work of Ansel Adams and investigate his 'zone system') The road surface in your image appears to have been exposed perfectly (because the meter saw middle grey and exposed for it, you accepted the meter's reading, so both the clouds and mountain are incorrectly exposed.) Get your head round this because it helps in all aspects of film photography. You can buy a 'grey card' and physically place it in the light that you intend to make an image in, then meter off the card and adjust your exposure accordingly.
Glad to see you’re enjoying and experimenting with film! I am curious tho about why you wanted to underexpose your shots during the daytime when there was sufficient light to properly expose them. Pushing film - that is, underexposing it while shooting and then increasing the development time - serves to improve highlight detail and contrast but developing underexposed film longer won’t do much to help shadows because the film didn’t have enough time to capture much detail (and you can’t retrieve detail that was never there). If you wanted more contrast and a slightly ‘crunchy’ look to your film, I would suggest relying on post-processing rather than playing with exposure, especially when it comes to underexposing color negative film. Or, at least, save pushing to dark situations when even shooting with the widest aperture and the longest shutter speed that won’t introduce too much camera shake (~ 1/60) still doesn’t provide enough light for a properly exposed image. All that said, keep it up and I can’t wait for your next video!
Reminds me of some photographs from the 70s which have a lot of charm to them
Agree!
Interesting video. Some lovely shots with beautiful warm pastel colours.
I see a couple of things that might be causing you some problems.
1. In the images at 19secs, 4m 19s, 4m 35s, 10m 09s and your seafoam 'streak' are all light leaks. Looks like its in the same spot about 1/3rd of the frame in from the left edge. Maybe the foam seals around the camera door are perishing, (a common problem on older cameras), maybe the camera back doesn't snap tight enough closed or maybe you loaded and unloaded the film in bright sun.
2. The shutter timing appears to be out of sync at certain shutter speeds, the shutter curtain is still moving across the exposed film whilst the camera is timing the exposure and the shutter curtain should be out of frame. Thats what the black bar is in images: 10m 19s, 2m 57s
3. The clouds/road/mountain image at 4 mins 26 defines how you need to think about using your film cameras. All pre 'logic' cameras meter the light in the image and present you with a setting that will perfectly replicate what is known as 'middle grey' or '18% grey' (look it up and then go and look at the work of Ansel Adams and investigate his 'zone system')
The road surface in your image appears to have been exposed perfectly (because the meter saw middle grey and exposed for it, you accepted the meter's reading, so both the clouds and mountain are incorrectly exposed.) Get your head round this because it helps in all aspects of film photography.
You can buy a 'grey card' and physically place it in the light that you intend to make an image in, then meter off the card and adjust your exposure accordingly.
Glad to see you’re enjoying and experimenting with film!
I am curious tho about why you wanted to underexpose your shots during the daytime when there was sufficient light to properly expose them. Pushing film - that is, underexposing it while shooting and then increasing the development time - serves to improve highlight detail and contrast but developing underexposed film longer won’t do much to help shadows because the film didn’t have enough time to capture much detail (and you can’t retrieve detail that was never there). If you wanted more contrast and a slightly ‘crunchy’ look to your film, I would suggest relying on post-processing rather than playing with exposure, especially when it comes to underexposing color negative film. Or, at least, save pushing to dark situations when even shooting with the widest aperture and the longest shutter speed that won’t introduce too much camera shake (~ 1/60) still doesn’t provide enough light for a properly exposed image.
All that said, keep it up and I can’t wait for your next video!
the under exposure was just a rookie mistake on my end honestly.
Hi pushing film is a new concept to me, can you explain the benefits of pushing colour negative film and why it can be sometimes a good idea?
Try again with your X-700 and shoot with Portra 400 (@200 ISO) :)
Cool!
So you underexposed the film by 2 stops?