Singer Model 221 Featherweight Motor Rehabilitation Part Two
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 лип 2024
- Cleaning wicks, removing springs, install spring. reinstall wick, clean motor parts. Singer featherweight motor. How-to tutorial. Do it yourself rehab.
00:00 INTRO
05:50 ABOUT WICK
08:30 RMV CORE
09:15 WASHERS
10:30 SOAKING WICKS
11:45 ALCOHOL WICK
13:15 KRUD KUTTER WICK
18:00 STRAW WICKS HAHA
21:55 REMOVE SPRING
26:30 REM SPRING
29:30 CLEAN MOTOR PARTS
36:00 INSTL SPRING
40:00 THE WICKS
41:50 INSTL WICK
music: EPIC PRESENTATION by AShamaluevMusic - Навчання та стиль
Just another point of view about taking the motor grease port spring and felt retainer out.Through the years Singer made several motors for the 221. In reference to the earlier motors, the chrome cap can be removed with a little work. The cap is in the motor halves approximately 1/8''-3/16''. On the later motors with the black painted caps, I personally have not been successful in removing them. I do complete restoration on these machines, including total disassembly and paint. When I come across the later machines, I work the felt and spring out and in through the motor shaft bearing.
After assembly, remember to use Singer Motor Grease. It melts at a much lower temperature than Tri-Flow or some of the other greases. This allows a little melted grease to saturate the wick and lubricate the motor. This low melting point of the grease is very important in the longevity of the motor. Do Not Use Oil. It will gum up and slow down your motor.
I clean the wicks in Lacquer Thinner. If the tip of the wick is hard, I trim the tip with a razor blade.
Thank you. Never would have thought of using Lacquer Thinner. I had thoughts of trimming the end of the wick but was worried it would end up too short to reach the shaft. I found after cleaning that the wick elongated a little so trimming that burnt wick end sounds like a very good solution. Appreciate your info and sharing on my channel.
@@andytubesewing1953 If the end of the wick does not protrude into the bearing cavity, just stretch the spring a little. You only need the wick to rub the motor shaft. I have seen the wicks for sale. I did not buy any because you have to buy 2 or 3 feet at a time. If I see it again I will let you know. There is a man in Florida you can buy some used wicks from. His name is Glenn Williams. I can send his phone number if you like.
@@lbarkley1 thank you for the spring tip. Experience shared! I have some wicking material being shipped that I hope to use in part three.
I am so excited to see if I will be able to do the same with my engine. I am deeply impressed by your thirst for research. I look forward to it and to reading from you.
Thank you very much for commenting and watching my channel. If I was to do this again, I would not soak the wicks so long, I think.
Also, commenters have said they used mineral spirits to soak the wicks and it worked very well. Best of luck to you.
I am so glad to see you still doing the videos! I just changed the blub on my 404..the bulb was made by Dritz this new bulb..1991 date on the package..I had in my stash..the prongs that hold the plug in the socket are thinner than the old GE bulb that I replaced..I put a pin in the socket between the bulb and the wall of the socket and it holds the bulb tight so it makes good contact..it works! It is so much easier to do on the Rocketeer than on my featherweight!!
A clever workaround. Nicely done. Yes, I agree about the 404. All of it seems so well designed. I guess they had plenty of practice over the previous 100 years? Thanks for watching my channel and taking the time to comment, Alice 😄 Take Care.
Krud Kutter is magic! I had a 1906 Singer 27 treadle with parts so heavily varnished I couldn't get them to relaease even after several weeks of oiling, heating, alcohol, pb blaster, etc. It only took a few hours of carefully dribbling KK in those same places, and they all let go!
I agree, Jo. The KK works especially well in those situations.
Hello from an old sewing machine enthusiast, from Normandy in France. I love restoring them.
Thank you for all these very instructive and therefore helpful demonstrations.
In the same case, I searched on the net for wicks but I did not find any. So I had an idea: I bought at Lidl (discount shop) a kit of felts for a small grinder or polisher. I am thinking of cutting wicks with a cutter, in the larger discs and why not with a cookie cutter for the stamps located on the rod of the presser foot at the front of the machine.
Best regards,
Madou
Thank you for watching my channel, Alain. I know the types of felt you are talking about and I think they would work very well. The original wicks are made of wool and can be hard to find. I know of many mechanics who use polyester or acrylic felt pads and cut to fit. Thanks for sharing your idea with us. Take care.
Great content as usual Andy. I'm sure you'll solve the wick problem. When I changed the wicks in my 15-91, I did preload them with Singer Motor Lubricant and that worked well...however, the potted motor on the 15-91 is far more accessible than the 221. I soaked my old wicks in mineral spirits and then air dried them...they look great, soft and pliable...not mis-shaped at all...I could have reused them.
Mineral spirits! Thanks, I mention that and the lacquer thinner that Lin Barkley brought up. thanks for explaining the preloading of the wicks. I have experience with wicks but thought it a good idea. I still like this little motor, but then most of the older Singer motors are well made. I ordered wicking and look forward to its arrival even if I'll have a lot of it leftover. Thinking about the length of the wicks now that at messed them up. See you in three, and take care.
On the 15-91, I cut the wicks to .75" with a razor blade and then "threaded" them into the springs so that the total length was an inch an one eighth (1 1/8"). You may be able to do the same thing and use your bending procedure to get them back in their respective tubes.
@@GaryT1952 thanks. I don't know if the new wick will fit into the spring. It will be interesting, to say the least. 👍
I always find that new replacement wicks require a bit of coaxing to get into place. As for pre-loading the wicks, something I've always done for decades now. I gently heat some grease in a teaspoon and drop in the new dry wicks to soak it up. Works great, also helps ease the wicks into place.
Haha - I love it - here I am down in New Zealand, the Krud Kutterless land - and also the land with millions of sheep growing tonnes and tonnes of wool... So maybe this is why we don't have any Krud Kutter anywhere I can find! That really made me smile when you said Hello to us down here too - Hello Andy in Arizona. I'm waiting with bated breath now for installment 3 as we end on another cliff-hanger. :-D
Yes, the last figures I could find were from 2019 showing 27+ million sheep. You'd think you'd have wool wicking just laying in the fields! It wasn't that easy to find here but I found a mention of it and a big, big supply company had plenty of it as long as you buy the minimum 5 feet length. I may go into the wick selling business before this is over!
I cant wait to see what you use to replace that broken up wick!
thanks! 95% wool wicking cord is on the way, along with motor lube. Should be fun. Take care.
I’m in need of a new wick as I broke mine in the process of removing it. I’m so nervous I’ve ruined my machine. Even though the motor was grinding and I had to do something!
@@candydeister I damaged my wicks too. Here is how I replaced them. The info where I bought the wicking cord is in the description below the video: ua-cam.com/video/Ub6UuqEhmD0/v-deo.html
Nice video. Can you make and use a felt wick instead of wool wick?
Hmmm... the wool wick is felt. Felt is a textile made from compressed fibers. I don't know a lot about grease wicks compared to say a candle wick. I think much modern felt is also made from polyesters. I thought maybe Singer used wool b/c is handles heat and was absorbent. I don't know if something like polyester felt would release the melted grease too fast and have too much entering the bearing and motor. I googled wool felt when I started this series. It is available all over the place, mostly in pads, padding, and sheets. There are lots of different densities of the felt and I'm sure wool felt wicks will be the same. It needs to be thick and dense enough o hold the grease and control the flow as it melts, but not so low density that the melted grease, which is like oil, just runs right thru it into the motor. A popular size of the wool felt sheets I found online is 1/4 inch thick which could be cut to size to make a grease wick if the density was good. I've ordered some wool felt cording to try in the part 3 video since I pretty much destroyed the existing wicks by cleaning them the way I did.
Have you considered using an EZ out to remove the silver tube?
No, I have not. I've never used an EZ out. I've had a couple viewers write that they just used flat pliers to grip, twist, and pull the tubes out. I was probably too cautious as I thought I'd never find replacement tubes if I damaged one. If you give that a try please consider recording the method and posting it on your channel. If you let me know I'll give it a shout-out on my channel. I'm sure a good number of viewers would be interested to see a good way to remove the tubes. Thanks for watching my channel.
Hi Mr. Andy. I have an issue with a motor that I have taken apart several times and I can't seem to find the issue. The motor gets warm and then hot after using it for about 10 minutes. I have checked that nothing is touching the armature but it still happens. Does this mean that the motor is just bad? There is no oil in it. I did all the things. The wicks. The brushes. Cleaned the commutator. Baffled.
Anyway, I hope you have an answer with something I haven't thought of or tried.
Thanks so much for doing what you do. Be well.
Not being flippant, but are you sure it runs too hot? The motors seem to run hot IMO. I've burnt my fingertips a few times touching the end of a motor shaft or even a metal motor pulley on these machines, and the pinion gear on the PA motors of the slant needle models, whew!! ... forget about it. It sounds to me like you've done everything properly. If you're still uncomfortable with the heat I suggest emailing to the featherweight shop. That family knows more about featherweights than anyone I know of. I've contacted them a couple of times about problems when I was working on LaLa the featherweight I restored. They were very gracious with their time and information and got me on the right path quickly. singer-featherweight.com/
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you again. I have a few featherweights and I have not had this issue with the others. I will contact the Featherweight Shop. I want to make sure I will not be running a motor and causing an injury or worse. I know sometimes a potted motor will also run hot. I can't thank you enough for your opinion. I value it. Be well.
@@sewterie That's great that you have comparison motors that answers a lot of questions if lubrication is getting to the motor shaft bearings I really don't know what would make the motor run hot I have not experienced any abnormal heat if anybody can give you a hand I think it's that family so good luck
Hum, from Rio de Janeiro. If my motor is dead, is there a way to make It work?
Probably, unless the windings have been destroyed. Are you sure it is the motor? Have you checked/tested all the wiring connections? I've never found a "dead" motor but found plenty of bad wiring. Here is my playlist for model 221, including the 5 videos about the motor and videos about the light/wiring ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html
I have also found many problems with the foot controller and cord and here is a playlist for restoring a foot pedal ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKL6ePPxLpmnWSzTyxPKTb71.html You can download a free copy of some original repair and adjusting manuals that also have diagrams of the parts and motor and I have found them to be very helpful.
SERVICE MANUAL: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW_221_Service_Manual_-_080615.pdf?7223313128764594508
SERVICE MANUAL ADDENDUM: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW_222_Service_Manual_Addendum.pdf?7223313128764594508
ADJUSTERS MANUAL: cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0992/8814/files/FW221_Adjuster_s_Manual.pdf?7223313128764594508
Por favor, no se rinda con el motor y espero que los videos y manuales puedan ayudar. ¡Vaya suerte!
I'm also looking for a $50. 221 for my wife's collect. She didn't have a 99. We found a real nice one, $86. with shipping. Its aluminum! I don't think they made many, 1922. Do you think it was a precursor to the 221? Thanks and have a great one.
Wow, I did not realize Singer made aluminum as early as 1922! So, I went back to a webpage I found some time back and sure enough they show a version 10 was aluminum, the 99k-10, and it is labeled (not common) so congratulations!
www.singersewinginfo.co.uk/99k/#:~:text=The%20Singer%2099K%20sewing%20machine,4s%2D0d%20for%20cash%20purchases.
Makes me wonder if SInger tried it after the end of WW1.
I don't know if anything was the precursor to the 221, really. It just seems unique. The 99K was made to be lighter and portable vs the model 66 and came in it's own wood base so it did not need a cabinet. Even at 22 lbs it was considered "much" lighter, so in that sense, sure, it was a precursor to the featherweight which even smaller, portable, has a special case and only weighs 11+ pounds, or about 25 lbs in a fully loaded case with all the goodies.
@@andytubesewing1953 Thank you for the help. I'm enjoying refurbishing it. All of this is fascinating.
@@kennethjones5173 It is very fun and rewarding. Thanks for saving machines.
Hi Andy, Hope you're feeling well. I have a question about wicks. Do all singer motors use the same size wick?
I don't know for sure, but it is possible. As an example, the wicks for the 221 motor are the same size for the 15-90 and the 201-2
www.mcmaster.com/8767K22/
@@andytubesewing1953 The reason I was asking is that I need to change the wicks on a 66. I had wicks for a 15, but they looked a little thicker.
@@marydeignan2183 I've never worked on the motor for model 66. One problem you'll encounter is the many versions of model 66. For example, models 66-4, 5, 6, and K16 came with the Singer BRK motor. Model 66-8 came with a Series 4 Motor, and the 99-18 & 24 used the BYK motor. Maybe you'll just have to pull one of the old wicks out and measure the empty space? I do not use other social media, but perhaps one of the FaceBook Sewing Groups could tell you the exact size of the wick based on the model/version you have.
@@andytubesewing1953 Good advice Andy.
@@marydeignan2183 Sure, but not much help. I looked thru some old parts lists for a few of the model 66 motors but they do not list the wicks. Every other part is listed, haha, but not the wicks. I was hoping to find a size for you but no joy. Best of luck, Mary.
How do you replace the felt wicks in springs if they do not exist
So what is missing, the wicks, the springs, or both? For part three I am trying to source wicking material to make new wicks. I'll give close-up pictures of the spring with measurements. I have a SInger Form K5779 that shows "Oil Lubricating Spring" part no. 194326 and "Oil Lubricating Wick: part no. 194490
Both
@@kevincondit79 OK, Kevin. I had looked around for replacement springs in case I broke mine, but never found any. I figured I try to find something usable at a hardware store. As mentioned, I'll give wick info and provide a slide of a close-up of the spring with detailed measurements in the part three video when I make it.
A very gentle rub with a pencil eraser will clean those copper plates on your commutator very nicely. Be very careful not to apply any pressure to the windings or coils.
OK, thank you. Have you done that on your featherweight? Clean like a new penny, or mostly clean? Just curious. Thanks for watching my channel. Take care.
@@andytubesewing1953 I've done it when I went thru the potted motors on two 15-91's and my 201-2. I am told it's actually what Singer Recommends in their service manual. You want to GENTLY clean and brighten up the copper so the copper can easily conduct the electricity again. But don't be too harsh with it. It doesn't need to look " new penny" new but you can easily get rid of most of the black oxidization & grime this way. Worked well for me and no chemicals or liquid to sleep into your windings.
@@crossstitchgal Thanks very much for the extra info. I took a close look at the thickness f the copper pads on the commutator and there sure is not much to them. The eraser method sounds very safe. It will be the first thing I try. Take care.
All your fault, I'm a krud kutter nut. Handy stuff thanks. Oh my Home depot stopped carrying it.
Oops, sorry, hehe. I thought my HD had stopped carrying it also. One time I mentioned it to a department manager and he showed me they moved it from the cleaning aisle over to the painting section, like where the paint stripper and other liquids like that are. They only carried the gallon size now, and not the spray bottle, but I always bought the gallon anyway. I did recently find out it gets very greasy jeans clean also! Thanks for watching my channel.
I retired from HD the gallons are no longer on their site. I hope it's just a temporary thing. I got my last gallons from Zoro tools, good company. I also restore Trombones as my retirement profession. Krud kutter cleans the inner slide tubes better than any other product. The stuff is good. Thanks a million.
@@kennethjones5173 Hey, thank YOU, Kenneth, for sharing this. I have not bought at HD for 6 months but down to about 8oz of the KK so I'll be finding out soon if it is still in the store. I did buy it online once and it was just a couple $ more.
New wick material. I use the F1 3/16" www.mcmaster.com/felt-wicking/firm-felt-cords/
I saturate the new wicks by hand with the proper grease before installing.
Yes, new wick material. Thanks for sharing. Here is a playlist with all 19 of my 221 videos: ua-cam.com/play/PLsCOZgzzaiKIA1OPw0k6QOSTE-wAUZ4kp.html
One of those videos is about buying the wicks from McMaster and installing them into the motor: ua-cam.com/video/Ub6UuqEhmD0/v-deo.html
The same wicks you mention: www.mcmaster.com/8767K22/ This video you commented on is part 2 of the motor rehab, and part 3 is the new wick installation.
Thanks for watching and commenting on my channel.