Not definitely v17 but yeah. It's always so hard to tell how hard a boulder actually Is from video. It's almost always harder than it looks. You can't really feel it. Also you can't even really see the Crux in the original angle
drew13600 to be clear it wasn’t a suggested downgrade. Rather it was stated that he believed it to be in the V16/V17 range but felt Burden was harder. That being said his own experience with high end bouldering is limited. But I believe he has also done Burden from a move in. So depending on how things pan out in the future No Kpote could be a V17, but on the softer end. It could also be a harder 16. But more climbers need to reach that level for such consensus. One or two opinions is t much to go off of.
This video was edited so well, crossing that threshold into a short climbing “film.” Beautifully done and a great introduction of Charles to a wider audience. Thanks for this much needed reprieve from the COVID blues!
Tobias Thiel “off the wagon” is this boulder problem in Switzerland, none of the climbers have used foot to get past this move. Do a quick search on UA-cam and you will see
I'm a barefooted climber and enjoyed it so much when I saw someone else doing it, and doing it 3x better than I. Apologies to all the folks who think its gross, barefoot climbing just feels so natural; and feels even better when your feet evolves to handle all the sharp boulders.
@@alucard9668 I dunno... I saw him doing some stuff I don't think would be possible with shoes, using his feet more like a second pair of hands. Admittedly I'm biased, though. xD
@@alucard9668 I'd say it's the opposite. He can do more with his feet than the rest of us who use shoes. think of it as gloves. No climber in their right minds would use gloves, because they know they'd be losing grip and precision. Same goes for the feet, although you have to train them harder as they're used to being protected all the time. But I guess that someone who walks barefoot all the time would actually progress quite quickly.
I'm more concerned about the lack of crash pads on those sharp rocks he repeatedly nearly slams his back/elbows into than I'm interested in the lack of shoes.
I would love to see Giuliano or Daniel trying No Kpote Only. Super impressive by Charles though, that shoulder move out right seems insane. And he broke the Off The Wagon beta?
the crux of off the wagon is the throw right to the first hold in the crack, then getting hand positioning right to one arm it, so yeh he broke the beta by using a ladder to skip the crux
@@bboyHarrypotter Doesn't have to be a rose move, numerous pros have done it with matching. It's obviously just the better style and at that grade it's all about the style
@@IliaNadyrbayev Yes of course it doesn't have to be it, as Ryuichi Murai has recently showed us. The two dominant betas for that part seem to be matching, and the rose move. Matching is much higher percentage (you don't need to hit the crack perfectly since you can readjust) but more exhausting. The rose move is much lower percentage (you have to hit the crack pretty well) but is less exhausting. Mr. Albert's beta here is interesting. It looks very difficult to pull up into that position with a high foot - he cheated by popping off the ladder. But if you have the strength/flexibility to do it, it seems very high percentage.
There is a metaphor about the future, present, and past in the movement of a ship and its wake behind it. I appreciate what Brene Brown said in an interview with Chase Jarvis on Creative Live that those in the arena's voices count not those in the cheap seats. No matter what I do I keep this in mind and also understand why people in the arena often don't read the general public commentary. We can appreciate both new developments and those pinnacle moments of the past in the current. Have you seen the athletes at the Olympic games 100 years ago ..., especially gymnastics? It is okay for a sport to evolve that isn't personal. History has alot to teach us not only in retro recycling but in the incremental climb.
Ok, so next time someone asks for advice to buy climbing shoes, I'll say, 'Do you crack climb? No? Do you do granite, or gabbro? Alpine multi-pitch, no? Then you don't need any shoes. We do, however, have a good quality organic foot cream over here... What did you say your name was..?'
yeah nice.. very hard.. but why nobody spot him? there are so many ppl in there just watching.. the guy almost hit his head few times with those rocks on the floor.. very cool climbing but less recording a more safety I suggest..
chillest dude on earth
This video is the definition of mellow
That V17 looks WAY harder from this angle than in the original video.
Not definitely v17 but yeah. It's always so hard to tell how hard a boulder actually Is from video. It's almost always harder than it looks. You can't really feel it. Also you can't even really see the Crux in the original angle
I saw this angle and was like “oh I see now” lol. Looks like it would be harder with shoes (prob v17 lvl)
drew13600 to be clear it wasn’t a suggested downgrade. Rather it was stated that he believed it to be in the V16/V17 range but felt Burden was harder. That being said his own experience with high end bouldering is limited. But I believe he has also done Burden from a move in.
So depending on how things pan out in the future No Kpote could be a V17, but on the softer end. It could also be a harder 16. But more climbers need to reach that level for such consensus. One or two opinions is t much to go off of.
drew13600 o
Zeke The Taco Master “Not definitely V17”.. I think you need to actually ascend a route before speaking about it’s grade..
He's the nightmare of climbing shoe brands
-Shoe makers do not want you to see this!
He is the ONE that climbing shoe brands call “he who we do not speak of”. A myth!
climbing shoe makers hate him!!!
With all the money he saves on shoes you'd think he'd buy a slightly bigger mat... ;-)
He's so connected with barefoot rock climbing that when he falls the ground comfortaby embraces him. No injuries
He spends it on feet chalk
This video was edited so well, crossing that threshold into a short climbing “film.” Beautifully done and a great introduction of Charles to a wider audience.
Thanks for this much needed reprieve from the COVID blues!
the stones in his back makes me so nervous!!!
1:50 gave me anxiety
I know what you mean. Please be careful mr barefoot!
They're crazy is what they are!
loads of rocks straight under the boulder
*uses one small matt*
Purity in his approach to climbing🤙
Le “y’a quoi” always gets me
Mad props to everyone involved with this. Please don't stop
Its like watching Mogli climbing. Really interesting style and movement on the rock. Sick upload.
such an excellent soundtrack. great video.
THE ART OF CLIMBING!!!Charles has such a movement....realy impressing
Escalade de rêve ! Mythique... merci pour cette sublime vidéo.
Off the wagon beta make me lough! :-)
Haha, I didn't know using a ladder counts as beta.
@@tobiasthiel5291 Of course, thats not whole route. But it its quite famous for that face out cros-move with feet off...
Tobias Thiel “off the wagon” is this boulder problem in Switzerland, none of the climbers have used foot to get past this move. Do a quick search on UA-cam and you will see
@@tobiasthiel5291 yeah ladders should count as aid not gonna lie
Oh maaaan!!!! Now I'll never be able to say that not having the right climbing shoes was the reason I didn't send.
when you can crimp with your feet.. xD
No Kpote Only looks super hard! Great footage
Actually he propose 9a for this boulder. ..
"Oui monsieur" 😂😂
I'm a barefooted climber and enjoyed it so much when I saw someone else doing it, and doing it 3x better than I. Apologies to all the folks who think its gross, barefoot climbing just feels so natural; and feels even better when your feet evolves to handle all the sharp boulders.
its not about grossness ur just not using full potential of ur feet while u climb without shoes who are designed to improve that
@@alucard9668 good point, but isn't that life though my friend? opportunity costs is a real thing.
@@alucard9668 I dunno... I saw him doing some stuff I don't think would be possible with shoes, using his feet more like a second pair of hands. Admittedly I'm biased, though. xD
@@alucard9668 I'd say it's the opposite. He can do more with his feet than the rest of us who use shoes. think of it as gloves. No climber in their right minds would use gloves, because they know they'd be losing grip and precision. Same goes for the feet, although you have to train them harder as they're used to being protected all the time. But I guess that someone who walks barefoot all the time would actually progress quite quickly.
@@drglobule8a if wearing shoes made you worse why do ALL of the best climbers wear them?
I'm more concerned about the lack of crash pads on those sharp rocks he repeatedly nearly slams his back/elbows into than I'm interested in the lack of shoes.
Dude the close up footy of No Kapote Only was super dope. Looks way harder up close.
The climb in the yellow shirt at the end is mind blowing hes a beast
My idol, I was so stoked when a see the title 😍😭
Best thing since sliced bread, just thrown my shoes away.
imagine getting flappers on your toes...... super cool climbing though!
happened to me once
...i don't handle blood well and i almost passed out lol
after climbing two 7A slabs at my local gym last week end i think its not v18. as i have no friends im saying it to youtube's comment section
who would dislike a well made/fucking awesome video like this?
Don't usually grit my teeth listening to reggae.
finally someone with talent proves that matrix exists
I would love to see Giuliano or Daniel trying No Kpote Only. Super impressive by Charles though, that shoulder move out right seems insane.
And he broke the Off The Wagon beta?
he kinda did with that footwork huh?
the crux of off the wagon is the throw right to the first hold in the crack, then getting hand positioning right to one arm it, so yeh he broke the beta by using a ladder to skip the crux
@@ericmcelyea5089 The rose move is also very difficult and many pro climbers fall off there
@@bboyHarrypotter Doesn't have to be a rose move, numerous pros have done it with matching. It's obviously just the better style and at that grade it's all about the style
@@IliaNadyrbayev Yes of course it doesn't have to be it, as Ryuichi Murai has recently showed us. The two dominant betas for that part seem to be matching, and the rose move. Matching is much higher percentage (you don't need to hit the crack perfectly since you can readjust) but more exhausting. The rose move is much lower percentage (you have to hit the crack pretty well) but is less exhausting.
Mr. Albert's beta here is interesting. It looks very difficult to pull up into that position with a high foot - he cheated by popping off the ladder. But if you have the strength/flexibility to do it, it seems very high percentage.
So pure!
When we getting Mellow apparel lads?
Would love to see an interview with Charles some day.
ua-cam.com/video/fgMyjv-ubYg/v-deo.html, not an interview but interesting to see (english subtitles)
Latest Reel Rock. His English is really good.
I’m gonna just watch this one a couple more times 😳
at 06:00, nice spotting... , he's hanging horizontal over 3 meters above the ground and those two are just chilling on the only two crash pads
Climbing barefoot would be so fun 😂 I hate buying shoes
We need a Talking Hard Climbs with Charles!
1:50 almost never climbed again... wtf
Charles IS the flow
omg is that whiskey under the overhang
That mat placement stressed me out too much.. his back was so close to the rocks so many times
Makes my feet sweaty watching him.
Could hear the comfortably numb solo in the background in the intro 😄👌
Anyone know what he said after he sent that last boulder ?
Would love to see his hangboard workouts! I assume the same principles apply? Half crimp and open-foot for 10ish seconds for power?
I wonder how often he has to resole those things
Luckily resoling is continuous
So wait, it's not about the gear? 😱
Man, he's strong
la grande classe a l’état pur quelle elegance !!!!
Sometime my toes hurt in my climbing shoes, does that mean I'm tough enough to climb barefoot?
(No, it doesn't.)
You will never now if you don't try it.
"Oui, monsieur ! " ^^
Прекрасный вид активного досуга
so cool !!
Great job bro!
sucks that no kpote only got downgraded to V15 would love to have had it as one of the 4 V17s instead we have 3 now
Looks like 12 trad climbers stopped by to give this a big thumbs down (because of Charles Albert's superior style).
Fantastic
I would move the pile of boulders right behind my head lol
Are those Mellow t-shirts still about?
What's the grade? Sick dude
Still not sure if it's 9a
Honnold’s free solos don’t count anymore since there is a new standard, even after winning an Oscar, ‘cause he aid climbed with shoes.
There is a metaphor about the future, present, and past in the movement of a ship and its wake behind it. I appreciate what Brene Brown said in an interview with Chase Jarvis on Creative Live that those in the arena's voices count not those in the cheap seats. No matter what I do I keep this in mind and also understand why people in the arena often don't read the general public commentary. We can appreciate both new developments and those pinnacle moments of the past in the current. Have you seen the athletes at the Olympic games 100 years ago ..., especially gymnastics? It is okay for a sport to evolve that isn't personal. History has alot to teach us not only in retro recycling but in the incremental climb.
Oui monsieur🔥❤
Fucking great! Wished more people clibed this way, much better to watch and observe.
Does he hangboard from his toes to stick those sick foot crimps?
This is so crazy
what size feet does he have???
they look massive!
3:12 Nico: "I'm going to downgrade the crap out of this"
that mat is way too small.. he almost hit is head @ 1:54 .. no shoes sure... but don't skimp on the protection!
geez that move looks hard
This dudes feet have to look like what nightmares are made of lol Those heel hooks had me cringing
Scarpa likes this video😂
Ok, so next time someone asks for advice to buy climbing shoes, I'll say, 'Do you crack climb? No? Do you do granite, or gabbro? Alpine multi-pitch, no? Then you don't need any shoes. We do, however, have a good quality organic foot cream over here... What did you say your name was..?'
Oh lala 💪🏼💪🏼
Is he trying that V17 route? barefoot?????
Is this a wooden
I can smell the patchouli
Barefoot Charles is the MESSIAH!!!!!
wow
Not only does he save money on shoes he saves money on sand paper to
*La Sportiva enters chat*
Its nice to climb with sock. Nice toe crimps
what a boss
Sick
Tarzan vibes
Whoa...
Brushing is aid.
I heard many shoe companies are after charles to wear their shoes 😂😂🤔😟
aguante los rastas de mellow!
🦁❤💛💚Ras TafarI Worldwide! ❤️💛💚🦁
👽💪💪👽
superiore
yeah nice.. very hard.. but why nobody spot him? there are so many ppl in there just watching.. the guy almost hit his head few times with those rocks on the floor.. very cool climbing but less recording a more safety I suggest..
He is to Climbing what Dubside is to kayak rolling...
Il est tellement mou que mon telephone s'est mis en veille.
climbing shoes count as aid, change my mind
So does having skin...
So is chalk.
So are clothes.
Air is aid
I'm also a barefoot climber and I count them as a disease
ELEMENTAL
What does FA mean? I thought it meant flash attempt, but he didnt flash the last one
First Ascent - the first time the line is successfully climbed, doesn't matter how many tries.
jesus