PVM-20M2U Frustrations, No Power Red Tally Light, CRT Arcing, Dead Front Panel Buttons, Lost Sync
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- Опубліковано 25 лис 2022
- You cant win em all, Here I show fixing multiple issues with this Sony PVM-20M2U. We fix a no power issue where the tube gets no high voltage and the red tally light shows its in protection mode, then I fix a dead front button input panel and an issue of the tube arcing. I get the image dialed in then lose vertical sync.
- Ігри
Went ahead and replaced sync seperator IC chip and surrounding caps
ua-cam.com/video/0EEp3wBwioc/v-deo.html
My son accidentally shorted a 27-in Sony Trinitron a while back while I was adjusting the convergence. I was going to give up on it and throw it away but decided to do some replacement on the parts. I replaced more than just capacitors but in the end I got it working again and was excited that actually fixed it! I'm not really good at troubleshooting I just got lucky I think and replaced a bunch of parts in the area that I thought was shorted out. I think you're doing a good job man keep it up!
Thanks, and I remember you telling me this story a while back, either on here or reddit. Glad you got it going again.
Yeah i need to just start replacing things i guess. Id like to get a scope but would probably take forever to know what im doing with it.
@@LameGaming I realize every situation can be different, but in my situation after doing some simple tracing through the circuits... I decided to replace the parts that I thought could have got shorted in the path of the short. One of the parts was a transistor/ (IRFIB7N50A IR 500V 6.6A .52Ω N-CHANNEL HEXFET SMPS Mosfet TO-220) which I found from a seller on eBay used... Once I remove the heat sink to get to this transistor out, I could actually see where it had art and cause an issue! Anyway maybe where you see that arc on your monitor you could perhaps Trace out the path and see if you see something out of the ordinary visually?? I seriously got lucky man I really don't have good troubleshooting skills but there's this guy on UA-cam that has a really good channel I'll send you a link. I've been trying to learn from him.
@@LameGaming ua-cam.com/video/Qxn8-OpIveE/v-deo.html this guy is very thorough and has a ASMR like voice LOL I really enjoy it
ua-cam.com/video/O0EQFxA6lNg/v-deo.html
Me reading closed captions:
"Adds fancys do hickey to your yoke"
I thought this must be wrong but when I turned up the volume and heard the accent, it made total sense and I understood it lol. It's funny how some things look so odd when you read them as opposed to hearing them.
🤣🤣🤣
Really like the development of your channel! We can witness live you acquiring more and more knowledge :D
I also like your techniques like hanging the board to desolder.
Good stuff :)
Thanks man, I think im just stuck at that mid point where Im doubting myself and need to push through and solve this riddle. Was going to order a scope and take this type of repair serious but the new job eats up all my time.
Thanks for the kind words, i think next weekend ill just get in there and pull those vertical transistors to better test them.
Mam watching this to the end was anxiety inducing. I hope you fixed it!
Managed to find a replacement chassis board but someone recapped it with cheap caps so have to do another recap before I can test it.
I got a couple ideas. 1) step away from it for awhile and come back in a month or so after you forget about it. It's kinda like getting a second opinion. 2) get someone else to look at it. There's still a lot of guys out there that fix hifi stereos and pa equipment. Most of them can fix crts as well. 3) isolate the problem with some swapatronics. Try connecting the tube and the main board to some of your other sonys and see what happens.
Sounds like it's got a nice fresh tube in it. You will get it working eventually.
Yeah, I did this work a couple months back, its still on the bench lol. I figured editing this vid might motivate me or give me some ideas. Ill probably start with pulling vertical transistors when I decide to get back on it. Definitely has a decent tube so hope to save this one.
@@LameGaming It's weird how every time you fix something another issue pops up....Good luck.
@@riggel8804 Yeah, starting to wonder if that monitor is cursed lol
I hear you bro. I have the same monitor and it has only given me 30 minutes of entertaintment and countless hours of problems. Fixed vertical collapse issue, and now I have some arcing on top of the monitor distorting the image.
That sucks, is it similar to the arcing issue I had on this one?
@@LameGaming It turns out that the anode cap was not properly insterted. I just finished doing a complete recap on this unit. Used only long life and high ripple current nichicons, chemicons, rubycons and panasonics. The screen looks brighter and has not given me any more problems since I recaped it.
@@alfredocalzadilla7251 Enjoy it brother! I hope to get mine going eventually
@@LameGaming Good luck! I hope you are able to get it fixed.
When choosing your low ESR caps, what series are you using? I've found some of the new Nichicons that are supposedly low ESR don't actually list the ESR in the datasheet if they need to be above 100V. I was replacing some in a low end PVM and found the brand new "low ESR" Nichicons had about a 5x higher ESR than the old ones I was replacing - something like 1.7 ohm ESR versus originals that were around 0.25 ohm ESR, though those were also 85C caps. Mine I think were UPW series which happen to also be miniature whereas originals weren't. Just curious if you've run into that where new "low ESR" caps actually have higher ESR than what you are replacing. Awesome video as always!
I have ran into that.... I believe it was with the upw nichicons and i usually went with the ups i believe ( at work right now so just trying to go off memory) but yeah, Ive ran into that too lately and dont know what the deal is..... Maybe its normal, a different chemistry, or maybe we got bad batches but Ive been noticing the exact same thing and dont like it. I usually just go with 105c nichicons and pick the cheapest noted as low esr.... Upw,ups,upz if I remember right.
I may try some panasonics next. I was just in an ag560 panasonic monitor/vcr combo unit from the mid 80s and it was full of blue panasonic caps that were all still super low esr.
Yeah it doesnt give much confidence to replace caps with higher esr caps. Also i have a pvm 1344q I recapped power and deflection in just 6 months ago and turned it on the other day and noticed some waving in the image.
It would really suck if we been recapping with bad caps 😣😣😡😡
Wow I feel bad for you I'm still learning I wish I knew how I can help you
everybody else that I know that works on these they charge an arm and a leg but
I don't know them personally
Yeah, wish I could find an old service tech wiz locally to train me in the advanced stuff. No way Id ship a whole 20" monitor with possibility of damage not to mention costs lol
Shot in the dark. This happened to me on medical version of monitor on Mister and found out that C Sync was not enabled for some reason. Maybe double check .ini file of Mister console to see if Composite Sync is enabled.
Sadly it had this issue with any console or signal I tested.
I ended up reflowing entire board, testing all surface mount components, scoping board, replacing sync IC, re-replacing several caps.... Just couldnt find the issue.
Ended up buying a spare chassis board on ebay but it was recapped by previous owner with chongx caps so I have to recap it. I have the cap kit but just moved into a new house and the to do list is forever long right now 😩
That shaking effect on the menu is the same as what my BVM does when you pull the menu up on an unused or un synced channel. So it's probably nothing to do with the actual output of the image to the tube. Like you say it is something to do with the picture or sync circuity or even the sync form the mister. Have you tried anything other than the mister?
Yep, tried a snes on svideo and composite as well (the clip with the screen rolling and a green menu)
Before whatever component went bad that osd was rocksolid even without a signal. When the display started stretching the osd did too then became unstable so idk lol
after a wrong handling with service menu, my 20m2u die. a friend check it and found horizontal transistor and power supply regulator die, but after change this 2 components, they die again after 20 mins of power on. :(
any tip to check what happens here??
I replaced horizontal output transistor on mine too and after trying it the new transistor died and also killed the fuse and bridge rectifier in the power supply.
I put in new power board and put the old horizontal transistor back in and it was ok. I bought my transistor on ebay, they were suppossedly new old stock transistors but I think they were aftermarket from china and no good
so what did u end up doing with the pvm at the end?
Ended up finding another 20m2u on ebay with a bad green gun in the tube. Nobody was bidding on it but I didn't want to pay a ton for shipping so made a reasonable offer if he would just ship me the boards. The boards have already been recapped but sadly they used cheap aliexpress caps so I have to do another recap on the new board and I haven't had time because I just moved and still getting settled in. Hopefully within a few weeks I will be able to mess with it.
Sad really 😢
The good news is i scored all the boards from a 20m2u that had a bad tube.... The bad news is the boards were recapped with generic " chongx" capacitors.
Then other good news is i have the cap kit on hand to recap the boards. The bad news is im in the middle of a big move so dont know when ill get time to work on it.
In due time i guess
You try asking Savonpat?
I sent him a message via ebay with no reply but to be fair I put my own cap kit together so he has no obligations to me.