I was going to comment on your ability to plan this out. With little to no experience I find this the hardest part. Then it hit me, how slow can I get, that's why you keep repeating ," just do it and keep doing it". Your experience is built by doing. Your knowledge is built on your failures. With this way of thinking, you just keep building and enjoying every minute of it. Brilliant!!!!
I know this might sound anathema to a high tech model builder, " I just wing it most of the time and solve problems as they arise, in the end, if a decent model comes out I'm happy." ~ Boomer.
Boomer, wow…WOW! Thanks for sharing this project. So much can be transferred to model railroading. I have learned so much from your videos. Glad you decided to share your life’s work with us!
This is just what I've been looking for as a project. My model railroad has really turned into an 8-foot long diorama since I've found I enjoy modeling the landscape and foliage more than running trains. It's full of your trees and lots of other elements inspired by your work. I have had in mind stand-alone dioramas, and this gives me so many great ideas. Thanks for all of your guidance! BTW, I'm on the other end of the boomer age range, at 73.
I just found your channel. I love your concept. I'm working on my modern day HO layout. I tend to be a railroad modeler rather than a model railroaded. I'm currently working on my commercial marine fleet.
I love the box diorama. Ive recently completed my first one as an experiment and I'm now part way through my second one. As I can no longer have a layout, these are a great way of displaying models in a small self contained diorama. As always, loving your work and your channel.
@@boomerdiorama I got the idea after watching Barry Fitz Chanel here in New Zealand. A beautiful modeller doing some amazing models. ua-cam.com/video/7uWwMVi8Dtg/v-deo.html
I'm a dedicated user of rock molds and :Hydrocal, but I believe this technique may be a solution for a waterfall scene I'm contemplating for a TTrak module. Thanks for opening up additional materials options.
kudos to your rock carving vs plaster and molds...even thou in the past I have used them...some do come out very nicely, (Mike Confalone Allagash, did great work on his) But I always found carveing/sculpting rocks etc very satisfying and relaxing..
I used to make beautiful rock molds during my film days and then cast them in two part resin super thin and lightweight. I'm repulsed by heavy plaster. Gave up plaster decades ago. But then plaster, as you say can look great as well. Cheers.
Awesome video Boomer. Your techniques are spot on. Everyone who is interested in diorama building should watch this, even seasoned builders. You can always learn something, nobody knows everything. In my old age I'm still learning. Doing things like this or having a hobby in general will keep your brain from getting stagnant, and the rewards are great, even if only for yourself. Keep up the great work and videos.
Another incredible video, expected nothing less! Learning a lot from your techniques and tips and your calming commentary! I'm looking forward to Chapter 2!
I'm a recent subscriber and enjoy your videos immensely. We're about the same age but I don't have the depth of your experience. That being said , I share your " just do it" philosophy of learning. Keep the videos coming my friend and thank you!
Looks like a great series in the works Boomer. I love how all the work done in one genre is applicable to military modelling or model railroads or whatever you model. Looking forward to it. Cheers from Ontario Bob
I was worried after the first couple of videos of this Diorama that you weren't going to show us the build from start to finish. Thanks for sharing this and especially the plexiglass technique, I have something very similar in mind for my build only with much larger waterfalls. I have so many questions about water, especially fast moving shallow water with rocks, rapids and larger waterfalls. I have a private YT playlist with videos of "techniques" to watch again... It's basically a playlist of your whole dad-gum channel!! Thanks Boomer. ~Dennis
This method is more targeted to the smaller intimate diorama. Mind you, you can employ the technique on a larger scale if you are up for it. I go into it more in the next few episodes in the series.
@@boomerdiorama Every since you modeled the Frazier I have wondered if similar techniques could be used with Rocky Mountain rapids... no pouring of epoxy.
@@OtterCreek When I compose a river I try to break down all the levels (pools) as they cascade down the gorge. Then I lay in flat plates (wood or plexi-glass) a little larger that the pool to model in the terrain. 1/8" plexi-glass shapes are easy to cut with a jigsaw and they usually come with protective backing as well. Even at 1/8" thick the water surface looks great when you paint the bottom side and add clear gloss texture on the topside. Paint in Olive, and go crazy with gloss acrylics. The result is usually quite stunning when you are dealing with a large layout like yours.
@@boomerdiorama would you shim up the plexiglass and have it "hover" over a rocky bottom? I gather you would just sculpt rocks right on top of the plexi for half submerged boulders. I'm looking forward to watching this new series even more than the tug! Thanks again for all your insight.
Mr. Boomer... were you doing dioramas for the BC Provincial Museum back in the 80's and 90's? I recall some truly magnificent displays. Always wondered how such works of art were accomplished! I am now feeling driven to model some of the inspiring nooks and crannies of my beloved Oregon Coast!
I am very surprised that you don't get more subscribers then what you get now. I always refers your site to anybody that want to listen to me. I am copying your techniques for myself. Thank you for sharing.
I’m lovin’ it! So Boomer to colour the plexi-water, you mentioned Tamiya clears and so far I’m good with that, but you said you might paint the top or the bottom of the plexi. I’m not sure, but if you do the bottom, won’t you see that visual gap created by the thickness of the plexi? I know you know what you’re doing, but that just jumps out at me. I know this from working with mirrors, like what side should the silver be, front or back?
No. You don't notice the gap. When you paint the top with clear acrylic texture for waves, current, foam, etc. the gap disappears. It's remarkable actually. This also applies to the shoreline. The gap is undiscernible ands also very crisp as a shallow embankment shoreline should be with no "resin" creep. The next episode will demonstrate this.
Can I ask...I know the picture frame was first on the scene as the base,, but why not build up from there with all pink foam to the finish..?? not being critical, just curious. either way it obviously came out stunningly awesome..
Actually depending on the figure size it can be a multiplicity of scales from 1/48th to 1/24th Scale. This is why modeling terrain is so versatile when no figurine dictates perspective.
Boomer, I know you say you're no master at this stuff, but this is a master class in dioramics that has and is so wonderful to be part off and I am learning so much from, I have to say thank you. I am endeavoring to build a 1/43 scale diorama of a bridge that no longer exists here in my town across the South Esk river which was a significant part of the towns history. It was called the Long bridge and was a major part of the towns access back in the day. It also was used in the heyday of motor racing as Longford Tasmania hosted a Grand prix race for over 10 years. "side note" I have already modelled a viaduct scene and one what is know as Pub corner. But my question is the new dio requires a river flowing under the bridge, would think the plexiglass as a base would work in this instance? Or something like your painted surface of your current shelf layout. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Cheer's John.
I find for larger dioramas (with a big scope view), like a large bridge, a painted river works fine if you add gloss texturing, currents, foam, etc. over a sealed and painted wood surface. I prefer this "Plexi-glass" method for the smaller intimate scene - in this case, a one foot square diorama. I especially like the plexi-glass method if I want to model fish, river bottom depth , etc. I don't find water depth to be significant with larger scenes though. If you go with a painted wood surface, make sure you take the time to try some samples, e.g. Olive Green, Dark Brown, etc. before you paint the diorama river. Even with my experience I still do samples before I go to final.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you Boomer, I think you've confirmed my thought's too. I do have some shot's of my two Dio's on my channel if you're interested. Cheer's John
Yes it does, but it has subtle differences. It feels and sculpts a bit different than Fast Mache. I find Sculptamold to be closer to Fast Mache than Celluclay.
Another awesome tutorial Boomer!! I am also working on a small Diorama to work on my techniques you have taught me. From,, "The Most Interesting Fisherman in Washington"
I only use a few very small "real" stones to finish the odd detail. Most, if not 95% of the stone and rock, is sculpted from Fast Mache (Paper Mache). You can use other (lighter medium) as well. Using real rocks can get heavy fast.
I was going to comment on your ability to plan this out. With little to no experience I find this the hardest part. Then it hit me, how slow can I get, that's why you keep repeating ," just do it and keep doing it". Your experience is built by doing. Your knowledge is built on your failures.
With this way of thinking, you just keep building and enjoying every minute of it.
Brilliant!!!!
I know this might sound anathema to a high tech model builder, " I just wing it most of the time and solve problems as they arise, in the end, if a decent model comes out I'm happy." ~ Boomer.
Just when I thought your channel couldn’t get any more perfect, you take it to another level!
Wow, thank you!
Thanks for sharing. This to translates to the layout. Even in N scale. Thanks for sharing.
Glad it was helpful!
This is absolutely stunning!
It won best diorama at the Vancouver 2023 fall IPMS show. Thank you!
That’s a great fun to watch you ! Thanks again !
My pleasure!
I love watching this stuff!
Thanks Bill!
Absolutely Stunning work. Top Drawer Museum quality!
Thank you! Cheers!
You need some Rocky the Squirrels flying around 😋
;-)
WHAT! 😮No moose!
Unbelieveable detail. Cheers
. . . and the pending Bear ate the moose . . . lol.
You are THE pro. Such WONDERFUL work. It's a joy to watch you. Thank you for taking us along.
Thank you very much!
I started making your old growth style trees. Takes time but the results are worth it
Yes Nate, they do take time . . . but anything worth while takes some time. The more one builds them the better they get as well. ;-)
Looks incredible so far. Can’t wait to see the progress 😊
Thank you! 😁
Boomer, wow…WOW! Thanks for sharing this project. So much can be transferred to model railroading. I have learned so much from your videos. Glad you decided to share your life’s work with us!
Very welcome!
your trees are Geee..dam incredible...
They take some work, but they last forever. They don't shed or loose their color either.
Great video. Very inspiring! Looking forward the the other chapter.
More to come!
This is just what I've been looking for as a project. My model railroad has really turned into an 8-foot long diorama since I've found I enjoy modeling the landscape and foliage more than running trains. It's full of your trees and lots of other elements inspired by your work. I have had in mind stand-alone dioramas, and this gives me so many great ideas. Thanks for all of your guidance! BTW, I'm on the other end of the boomer age range, at 73.
Sounds awesome! Building dioramas at age 73. I hope to be as well. Cheers!
I just found your channel. I love your concept. I'm working on my modern day HO layout. I tend to be a railroad modeler rather than a model railroaded. I'm currently working on my commercial marine fleet.
Welcome aboard!
Simply wonderful to watch you work. More stunning efforts to learn from. Rob
Thank you Rob! Cheers.😁
Thank you for this new series ever while the series about the ship isn’t finished yet. I don’t complain, I can’t get enough of your lessons.
Thank you Isaac. You are welcome. ~ Boomer.😁
I love the box diorama. Ive recently completed my first one as an experiment and I'm now part way through my second one. As I can no longer have a layout, these are a great way of displaying models in a small self contained diorama. As always, loving your work and your channel.
Thank you. Yes. The box diorama is a cool project. I am trying to design this one so it can be viewed as an open diorama and a box diorama as well. 😉
@@boomerdiorama ok, never thought of doing one that way. Might have to try that, I like the idea
@@boomerdiorama I got the idea after watching Barry Fitz Chanel here in New Zealand. A beautiful modeller doing some amazing models. ua-cam.com/video/7uWwMVi8Dtg/v-deo.html
Your work is Incredible. Mad Skills. Subscribed !!!!!!
Thank you for the Subscription and welcome aboard! Cheers ~ Boomer.
I learn something on every video you produce, but it’s also just very entertaining. Thank you!
Glad to hear it!
I'm a dedicated user of rock molds and :Hydrocal, but I believe this technique may be a solution for a waterfall scene I'm contemplating for a TTrak module. Thanks for opening up additional materials options.
That's a great idea!
Wow, I get what you're doing. This is like the grand dioramas in the New York Museum of Natural History. THAT quality. Incredibly cool!
Wow, thanks!
kudos to your rock carving vs plaster and molds...even thou in the past I have used them...some do come out very nicely, (Mike Confalone Allagash, did great work on his) But I always found carveing/sculpting rocks etc very satisfying and relaxing..
I used to make beautiful rock molds during my film days and then cast them in two part resin super thin and lightweight. I'm repulsed by heavy plaster. Gave up plaster decades ago. But then plaster, as you say can look great as well. Cheers.
Awesome video Boomer. Your techniques are spot on. Everyone who is interested in diorama building should watch this, even seasoned builders. You can always learn something, nobody knows everything. In my old age I'm still learning. Doing things like this or having a hobby in general will keep your brain from getting stagnant, and the rewards are great, even if only for yourself. Keep up the great work and videos.
I planned my retirement hobby when I was a kid. I knew what I always wanted to do when I got old . . . lol. Cheers.
" it's going to live right here", Boomer, your Turing into Bob Ross😄😄
Lol . . . Bob Ross was awesome!
@@boomerdiorama yes he was. As you say, attitude is important.
Another incredible video, expected nothing less! Learning a lot from your techniques and tips and your calming commentary! I'm looking forward to Chapter 2!
Awesome, thank you!
Well, amazing work. I watched a few vidéos and see your skills : absolutly beautiful results. I like your accuracy and the way you take your Time!
Thank you. I find the hobby to be a pure joy to engage in.😁
This is amazing work! Always impressed with how you create.
Thank you! Cheers!
I'm a recent subscriber and enjoy your videos immensely.
We're about the same age but I don't have the depth of your experience. That being said , I share your " just do it" philosophy of learning. Keep the videos coming my friend and thank you!
Welcome aboard and thanks for sharing!
Looks like a great series in the works Boomer.
I love how all the work done in one genre is applicable to military modelling or model railroads or whatever you model.
Looking forward to it.
Cheers from Ontario
Bob
Yes indeed. It all applies to the hobby!
Oh my gosh! Just found your channel! Love this! Just liked and subscribed ❤😊
Thanks for subbing!
I was worried after the first couple of videos of this Diorama that you weren't going to show us the build from start to finish. Thanks for sharing this and especially the plexiglass technique, I have something very similar in mind for my build only with much larger waterfalls.
I have so many questions about water, especially fast moving shallow water with rocks, rapids and larger waterfalls. I have a private YT playlist with videos of "techniques" to watch again... It's basically a playlist of your whole dad-gum channel!! Thanks Boomer. ~Dennis
This method is more targeted to the smaller intimate diorama. Mind you, you can employ the technique on a larger scale if you are up for it. I go into it more in the next few episodes in the series.
@@boomerdiorama Every since you modeled the Frazier I have wondered if similar techniques could be used with Rocky Mountain rapids... no pouring of epoxy.
@@OtterCreek When I compose a river I try to break down all the levels (pools) as they cascade down the gorge. Then I lay in flat plates (wood or plexi-glass) a little larger that the pool to model in the terrain. 1/8" plexi-glass shapes are easy to cut with a jigsaw and they usually come with protective backing as well. Even at 1/8" thick the water surface looks great when you paint the bottom side and add clear gloss texture on the topside.
Paint in Olive, and go crazy with gloss acrylics. The result is usually quite stunning when you are dealing with a large layout like yours.
@@boomerdiorama would you shim up the plexiglass and have it "hover" over a rocky bottom? I gather you would just sculpt rocks right on top of the plexi for half submerged boulders. I'm looking forward to watching this new series even more than the tug! Thanks again for all your insight.
@@OtterCreek You can shim it up and improvise as you say. Half submerged boulders don't really matter much as long as you suggest them.
Mr. Boomer... were you doing dioramas for the BC Provincial Museum back in the 80's and 90's? I recall some truly magnificent displays. Always wondered how such works of art were accomplished! I am now feeling driven to model some of the inspiring nooks and crannies of my beloved Oregon Coast!
No. I worked mostly for the Granville Island, Diorama, Trains, Ships, and Sport Fishing Museums.
I am very surprised that you don't get more subscribers then what you get now. I always refers your site to anybody that want to listen to me.
I am copying your techniques for myself. Thank you for sharing.
I guess my content is not pop-culture show -and -tell - who knows. 😁
I’m lovin’ it! So Boomer to colour the plexi-water, you mentioned Tamiya clears and so far I’m good with that, but you said you might paint the top or the bottom of the plexi. I’m not sure, but if you do the bottom, won’t you see that visual gap created by the thickness of the plexi? I know you know what you’re doing, but that just jumps out at me. I know this from working with mirrors, like what side should the silver be, front or back?
No. You don't notice the gap. When you paint the top with clear acrylic texture for waves, current, foam, etc. the gap disappears. It's remarkable actually. This also applies to the shoreline. The gap is undiscernible ands also very crisp as a shallow embankment shoreline should be with no "resin" creep. The next episode will demonstrate this.
Can I ask...I know the picture frame was first on the scene as the base,, but why not build up from there with all pink foam to the finish..?? not being critical, just curious. either way it obviously came out stunningly awesome..
I built this on the side on impulse while building the layout. I don't know why. Just did it this way for some strange reason . . . lol. Cheers. ;-)
just a reminder for me this is o gauge wright ? it is great can't wait to try something like that my self.
Actually depending on the figure size it can be a multiplicity of scales from 1/48th to 1/24th Scale. This is why modeling terrain is so versatile when no figurine dictates perspective.
Boomer, I know you say you're no master at this stuff, but this is a master class in dioramics that has and is so wonderful to be part off and I am learning so much from, I have to say thank you. I am endeavoring to build a 1/43 scale diorama of a bridge that no longer exists here in my town across the South Esk river which was a significant part of the towns history. It was called the Long bridge and was a major part of the towns access back in the day. It also was used in the heyday of motor racing as Longford Tasmania hosted a Grand prix race for over 10 years. "side note" I have already modelled a viaduct scene and one what is know as Pub corner. But my question is the new dio requires a river flowing under the bridge, would think the plexiglass as a base would work in this instance? Or something like your painted surface of your current shelf layout. Any advise would be greatly appreciated. Cheer's John.
I find for larger dioramas (with a big scope view), like a large bridge, a painted river works fine if you add gloss texturing, currents, foam, etc. over a sealed and painted wood surface. I prefer this "Plexi-glass" method for the smaller intimate scene - in this case, a one foot square diorama. I especially like the plexi-glass method if I want to model fish, river bottom depth , etc. I don't find water depth to be significant with larger scenes though.
If you go with a painted wood surface, make sure you take the time to try some samples, e.g. Olive Green, Dark Brown, etc. before you paint the diorama river. Even with my experience I still do samples before I go to final.
@@boomerdiorama Thank you Boomer, I think you've confirmed my thought's too. I do have some shot's of my two Dio's on my channel if you're interested. Cheer's John
@@johnnyvscustomsgaragetassie. O.K. Thank you, I'll have a look.😁
Got a question dose cel clay work the same way as Sculptamold ? I am still new to the hobby
Yes it does, but it has subtle differences. It feels and sculpts a bit different than Fast Mache. I find Sculptamold to be closer to Fast Mache than Celluclay.
After all the pieces of wood and other mediums you are using, how heavy does the base wiegh?
The diorama as finished weighs about five pounds.
Another awesome tutorial Boomer!! I am also working on a small Diorama to work on my techniques you have taught me.
From,,
"The Most Interesting Fisherman in Washington"
@@pserg1788 Sounds awesome. I go into the water effects in the next couple of episodes.😁
You probably said but what dimensions were the picture frame you used?
18" x 16" with a 9.5" x 8.5" opening.
@@boomerdiorama thank you
Boomer, with box dioramas, do you use real rocks like you did along the stream shore?
I only use a few very small "real" stones to finish the odd detail. Most, if not 95% of the stone and rock, is sculpted from Fast Mache (Paper Mache). You can use other (lighter medium) as well. Using real rocks can get heavy fast.