Done the whole fitting for mine the exact same, was going to start it this afternoon with octane boost, but after watching your vid I realized I can pump out the old gas easy peasy! going to do that now and put in new gas before firing it up. thank you, great video.
I see this video is old. I have a mercruiser 3.0 on my Bayliner. I have had a lot of fuel delivery problems. I may just buy one of those electrics. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for the video! Would it not be helpful to leave the mechanical pump on so that if the electric pump fails the mechanical pump would still work and your engine would still run? Or am I misunderstanding how that works. Thanks again!
Per coast guard need to have wired thru a oil pressure switch to avoid fuel pumping if engine dies and a vapor return to intake to avoid fumes in engine compartment just saying
How many PSI do you need on an older Mercruiser 3.0 running an electric pump. it's a 1985. I bought a pump that does 5-9 PSI. You think that's good enough?
I was under the impression, that any fuel line on the pressure side of the fuel pump has to be metal, so a hose won't burst and spray fuel all over the engine, yes or no.
I was wondering I have a 1982 OMC 3.0 with a 400 outboard i’m trying to find out the trim motor what size fuse it takes I am restoring the boat just can’t find much information?
Great video. Thank you very much! Now how do you figure out how strong the electric pump should be? I have a 1972 Mercruiser 165HP which currently has mechanical fuel pump.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thanks for your reply, but how does the electrical pump control the amount of fuel? For example... if you are accelerating you need more fuel. When you accelerate, does it somehow pump more fuel?
@@aniyahudi A carb has a float in the fuel bowl that shuts off the flow into the bowl when it's full, so the carb controls the fuel level with an electric fuel pump just like it would with the stock mechanical pump. I actually hooked my electric to the blower switch, since both need to be on while running. I know your comment is from a while ago so this is more of an FYI for future seekers.
I am doing the same thins except I will be keeping the old Fuel pump and connectors incase the electric fails I can reconnect the old set up to get me back in. One other thing I will be doing and connecting the power wires to the starter solenoid. This way it is only on when the boat is running . I tool am having full throttle issue and the pump in 1 year old .
Do you still have this boat? Is there anyway you can help me with my carb... I'm not sure if my butterfly valve is set to open and close right on the top of the carb... I know if I hold it a certain way it idles great.. I'm lost.
sounds like you don't have the choke spring set correct. Cold engine the butterfly on top should be barely closed by the choke spring. As the engine warms up this butterfly should open and stay open.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Can you talk with me via facebook live or some way so I can show you and you might be able to easily see my problem... I don't see any spring.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I just got your message like I said my phone ain't that well name address and where I need to ship you the money and I will buy that carburetor
What brand of pump do you have a installed a holley and it seems like its not building pressure and will not shut off going to return it and get something different
As a shop that actually still services OMC products you have “modified” therefore manufactured that unit to be “safe”. Coast guard has guidelines, rules as such regarding fuel, charging. Starter and as something simple as a solenoid. I would politely refuse to do any work as you have not followed USCG rules. Nothing personal involved but liability now rests with you as a “Manufacturer”.
Done the whole fitting for mine the exact same, was going to start it this afternoon with octane boost, but after watching your vid I realized I can pump out the old gas easy peasy! going to do that now and put in new gas before firing it up.
thank you, great video.
Thanks for sharing. It is good how you show a practical option for changing to electric pump without matching exactly.
You are welcome. Hope it helped.
I see this video is old. I have a mercruiser 3.0 on my Bayliner. I have had a lot of fuel delivery problems. I may just buy one of those electrics. Thanks for sharing.
Glad I could help
Thanks for the video! Would it not be helpful to leave the mechanical pump on so that if the electric pump fails the mechanical pump would still work and your engine would still run? Or am I misunderstanding how that works. Thanks again!
You answered all my questions! thank you.
Per coast guard need to have wired thru a oil pressure switch to avoid fuel pumping if engine dies and a vapor return to intake to avoid fumes in engine compartment just saying
Awesome idea. I'm wondering if I should go that route too. For now I'm just bought a mechanical fuel pump on Amazon. $42
nothing wrong with mechanical, thanks for watching
How many PSI do you need on an older Mercruiser 3.0 running an electric pump. it's a 1985. I bought a pump that does 5-9 PSI. You think that's good enough?
3-7 psi is plenty, just so you don't over power the float needle is what you need to watch out for.
I was under the impression, that any fuel line on the pressure side of the fuel pump has to be metal, so a hose won't burst and spray fuel all over the engine, yes or no.
I honestly don't know what the marine code for this is. I'm just showing what I did on mine. I see the value in all metal from what you are saying.
Correct
I was wondering I have a 1982 OMC 3.0 with a 400 outboard i’m trying to find out the trim motor what size fuse it takes I am restoring the boat just can’t find much information?
I wouldn't be able to help you there. Those set up are becoming more rare.
thanx. i have done it and works!
Great!
There’s also a rubber hose running from the original fuel pump... what is that?
Just a vapor line I do believe.
Great video. Thank you very much! Now how do you figure out how strong the electric pump should be? I have a 1972 Mercruiser 165HP which currently has mechanical fuel pump.
Most of the old mechanical pumps ran around 4-7 lbs of pressure.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina thanks for your reply, but how does the electrical pump control the amount of fuel? For example... if you are accelerating you need more fuel. When you accelerate, does it somehow pump more fuel?
the pump has a pressure shut off switch built in. The right pressure range will maintain enough fuel to the carb. during full throttle operation.
might try this. got a old 66 merc and the fuel pump leeks. could just fix the seal or is it fubared?
@@aniyahudi A carb has a float in the fuel bowl that shuts off the flow into the bowl when it's full, so the carb controls the fuel level with an electric fuel pump just like it would with the stock mechanical pump. I actually hooked my electric to the blower switch, since both need to be on while running. I know your comment is from a while ago so this is more of an FYI for future seekers.
can you install this pump on an outboard?
What was the clanking noise I heard in the lower unit while you were testing the motor?
just me not shifting in quick enough into gear
Well Done!
Thank you
What hot lead did you use for the pump?
You have to use a hot lead tied to the ignition switch, everything else is dangerous.
I am doing the same thins except I will be keeping the old Fuel pump and connectors incase the electric fails I can reconnect the old set up to get me back in. One other thing I will be doing and connecting the power wires to the starter solenoid. This way it is only on when the boat is running . I tool am having full throttle issue and the pump in 1 year old .
sounds like a plan, thanks for watching
I have an 1979 OMC 185 could I use the same pump for mine?
if your carb takes 3-5 lbs of fuel pressure then it should work.
Do you still have this boat? Is there anyway you can help me with my carb... I'm not sure if my butterfly valve is set to open and close right on the top of the carb... I know if I hold it a certain way it idles great.. I'm lost.
sounds like you don't have the choke spring set correct. Cold engine the butterfly on top should be barely closed by the choke spring. As the engine warms up this butterfly should open and stay open.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina Can you talk with me via facebook live or some way so I can show you and you might be able to easily see my problem... I don't see any spring.
What kind a carburetor are you using I'm putting together one of those together
I have a carb for one of these I can sell you. $75 plus shipping and it’s yours
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina I just got your message like I said my phone ain't that well name address and where I need to ship you the money and I will buy that carburetor
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina still interested in a carburetor if you do have it
@@davesalinas9698 Check out some of my latest videos. I have my email address in them. Email me and we can talk about the carb.
what sterndrive is on that ? I need parts and am having a hell of a time
I don't remember the type but I know it is one that is the worst to work on and find part for it. I sold it for parts.
Did you add a water/fuel separator anywhere? Are they necessary?
I don't, so far haven't needed to.
Yes, yes they are necessary.... 🙄
I need help on wiring!!
So does the pump shut off when it reaches pressure or does it run constantly
Yes the pump has a built in pressure switch and shuts off when up to pressure.
What brand of pump do you have a installed a holley and it seems like its not building pressure and will not shut off going to return it and get something different
I got mine from summit racing on line. It's a 4-7 lb pressure pump. Your local NAPA will carry one that work too. I have used both.
@@Michaelsbackyardmarina so no need for the overflow line then?
All “pressurized”fuel lines in Marine application need to be metal, not rubber.
I would agree, thanks for watching
As a shop that actually still services OMC products you have “modified” therefore manufactured that unit to be “safe”. Coast guard has guidelines, rules as such regarding fuel, charging. Starter and as something simple as a solenoid. I would politely refuse to do any work as you have not followed USCG rules. Nothing personal involved but liability now rests with you as a “Manufacturer”.
Not sure all the wording you used is what you meant to say. I still get your point. Thanks for watching and commenting