I spent the last 20 years of my life replacing broken clay tile, corrugated elephant pipe on a golf course. None of the sdr 35 stuff was an issue. Personally I'll stick with that or sch 40.
As I mentioned in my comment about adapting schedule 40 to schedule 35 all that you have to do is buy a thin wall coupling and you can glue that inside of a schedule 40 coupling it fits perfect and glues very well and now you can adapt your thin wall into the thin wall side of the coupling..
Facts! Dude is awesome! We need more people like him in the world. You must share what you’ve learned, so the next person can too. That’s how things should be
I hear so much conflicting information on which pipe is best. It seems PVC is much better at retaining water flow as there are no corrugations impeding the speed of the water and also much easier to maintain adequate slope without bellies. This helps with keeping the drain clear of debris and minimizing residual water in the pipe which is what the roots are seeking. PVC is also much easier to clean out if it happens to get clogged. I've done a lot of research on this topic and am struggling to find a good reason to use corrugated other than ease of installation.
Go with the green PVC sewer pipe. It’s strong, cost effective and will last. I have removed hundreds of failed corrugated systems. The corrugated pipe that is sold at the big box stores is no good. To have a quality corrugated pipe/french drain system installed costs a lot of $$$ and is only really needed in certain situations.
Yup, there is no right answer, apparently. I wouldn't use corrugated because with low flow it's going to collect dirt in the corrugations and too easy to have bellies that hold water begging for roots to get into it.
I have had to dig up corrugated runs before that were collapsed and clogged in spots. Do it once the right way no matter the initial cost. Cannot underestimate how important proper drainage is to a foundation, the cost is worth it.
As I understand it, for hooking up to house or garage downpipes where you need water taken away from roofs quickly then smooth pvc pipe to roadway is the way to go. But if you have boggy areas in your back lawn, a French drain with corrugated slit pipes works well. Ensure the corrugated pipe has a sock over it and good clean stones to let surface water sink through the stones, into the slits and sock into the pipe. Great for long slower drainage to enable lawn to dry. Ensure no clay soil on top of the stones as this will simply block any water from entering the pipe to drain away and will just sit on top.
Thanks for posting this video! Was debating between SDR 35 and schedule 40 because I have to run it under a new driveway pour as well. I was worried it would crush under a driveway.
If you value this limited crap he’s spewing, go watch the frenchdrainman. He also sells the best stuff I’ve ever worked with and I have 35 years of contracting experience and hold 6 different licenses.👍
I have a long pipe done with SDR-26 gasketed pipe that I had installed for a surface drain. It's similar to SDR-35 but has gasketed fittings that do not require glue. My installer got it from a waterworks supply house, not HD or Lowes.
I got an excavator and made a 100' run of 4" corrugated black pipe that I bought at Home Depot. It worked perfectly for two whole years. Then I had to dig it up because it was clogged and couldn't be snaked. So for the last few years there is a 100' open trench that carries water, but I have it staked off so no one breaks their leg falling into it. So, I have about a dozen lengths of heavy schedule 8" pipe to replace it. As soon as it warms up, I will install that pipe and be done with it.
Thank you for such an informative video about about PVC pipe and Corrugated🚣♂️ Drainage Pipe. Definitely Worth listening to though the whole video. I use the Corigated Drainage Pipe on the backyard fence problem where the rain collected and it works perfectly no more flooding for three back yards, pretty big backyards that looked like a lake. I wish I could show you a picture of it🚣♂️🚣♀️⛵⛵🏄♂️🏄♀️🏊♂️🏊♀️👧
The main draw back with PVC sch. 40 is price ,little harder to work with if you have the correct tools you can eliminate a lot of that, it will out last the big box corrugated pipe .Some jobs with out a doubt must use PVC sch. 40 .If sch 40 has root issues big box corrugated pipe will be twice as bad .
It is also worth noting that if the fall is correct on schedule 40, hardly any water will remain in it for roots to seek. Corrugated will ALWAYS retain water...what the roots want. For some reason, Chuck never mentions this.
Love love love this guy, but I used 500’ of schedule 40 to do my yard, some of which was pre-perforated for use in a French drain, and it wasn’t cheap but with any luck I should never have to think about it again. I was able to find some adapters for my downspouts into sch 40, and that cemented my decision.
The Problem I Have With The Thin Wall Pipe Is The Cost Of The Fittings! They Cost As Much As twice What I Get The Schedule 40 Ones For! That May Just Be Our Suppliers Here In North Alabama But The Cost Is Prohibitive!
He's right about getting roots. ANY pipe that is glued together and especially corrugated pipe will get roots. I have heard of some using silicone to fix the issue but I'm not sure if that works so I cannot speak on that.
I'm at loss about how to install a French drain now, if I need to drill holes for water runoff, but need to seal the pipes to mitigate root infiltration
You'd think the corrugated pipe and the thinwall PVC would snap like a twig or at least crush by how flimsy it "looks". I've actually stomped corrugated. It is strong.
I take it you have had good success with schedule 40, and less so with other types of pipe? Trying to decide which one to use and your comment is in direct contrast with Chuck's recommendation. I like the beefiness of SCH 40, personally, but just curious to learn more of your experience.
@@bmfitzgerald3 I'm a union plumber and on ALL of my personal projects I only use sch 40 and yes you can get sch 40 downspout adapters along with ANY other type of fitting. On commercial job sites I've used all the types of pipe mentioned, I install what the print calls for. I've also replaced all the other types of pipe due to excessive ditch depth and moving loads crushing these pipes, never sch 40. I believe he described exactly why he choses not to use sch 40 pipe, it's a bitch standing on your head in a 30" ditch full of slop trying to cut the heavy pipe to make a connection. The ONLY downfall to using sch 40 underground is cost, but like they say... buy once cry once.
I’ve finally found a guy to do my exterior FD. It’s too deep for me to dig. Roughly 6’ and it’s a long run. Anyway he wants to use the EZ pre wrapped corrugated. I was hoping to use a high quality corrugated and do a burrito wrap but being to hole is so deep I don’t think he wants to be doing the extra work and I do like the idea of cost savings. Do you think the EZ pre wrapped will be ok down that deep ? I only want to do this project once and I have a lot of water. I appreciate you feedback
Your comment @1:50 reminded me of a sticker my brother (a mechanic) had on his toolbox: "THE REASON I HAVE THE TOOL YOU WANT TO BORROW IS: I DON'T F@$>=+! LEND IT OUT!!" Cool Vid! Thanks!!
Rule #1.. Next tool on your " To Purchase List " is the one you have to borrow the most from your lead hand. Rule #2.. NEVER Lend ANY tool to anyone you don't work directly with.
I Use My Skillsaw For Pipes Less Than 3 Inches and My Ryobi Sawsall For Pipe Over 2 inches! It Is So Much Easier Just To Whack It In Two With My $59 Ryobi Battery Powered Tool! I Have Had To Use The Multi Tool To Flush Cut Pipes Also! Love Your Videos But Have Seen These On Your Other Channel!
From the sound of the cut on your hacksaw, it sounds like you installed the blade backward and you're cutting on the backstroke instead of the forward stroke.
I buy pipe to move water. Could you set up 10' of each pipe on the same slope, and pour a gallon of water through each measuring what comes out the other end?
What depth would you suggest to start digging under a driveway that will have about a 150 foot run for an underground drain ? I have a great run off to a ravine to discharge the water.
I wouldn't recommend corrugated with downspouts. The leaves and shingle dust will fill up and block corrugated in just a few years. Roots only get into PVC pipes that are cracked or leak from the fittings. If they aren't leaking they aren't getting root invasion. PVC is also easier to clean but I agree that thin walled PVC is probably sufficient for drainage applications unless there's a driveway or something heavy going over it.
When my house was built, the builder put a corrugated gutter drain under the front yard. It failed totally in about 4 years. I dug it all out and installed Sch 40. Twenty-five years later it remains root and clog free. I would not waste a nickel on corrugated piping.
There is an adapter to go from sch 40 to the green pipe. If u are worried about heavy traffic like large trucks on a driveway or something schedule 40 is good. Sdr35 is my go to pipe if I can get it. Pickings have been slim at the suppliers around here the last year or so... so iv been using whatever material is availabile... sch40 is also extremely expensive now days
Everyone needs to keep in mind: Corrugated pipe comes in SINGLE WALL and DUAL WALL. Both are flexible to an extent (dual far less so). BUT, dual wall (smooth inner wall) will not crack nor will it collapse like thin, single wall corrugated pipe. HD carries rolls of thin single wall pipe that WILL COLLAPSE under pressure over time. For this reason, though cheap and readily available, use CAUTION when using it. Downspouts will back-up if these get crushed.
TY. This was titled French Drain which assumes it captures ground water coming up. These have no holes. Are we supposed to put holes into the bottoms of the blue pipe? How far apart and what size?
Thank you! So Sch 40 PVC is not great for rainwater collection, got it! But is Sch 40 PVC good at ground water drainage such as in a footer drain system?
One hint using any hand saw-to get a straight cut point your index finger forward and rest on saw. Also you are cutting om the back stroke point blade teeth forward and let the saw weight do the cut with long slower strokes. The saw should cut on the forward stroke only. The recipo saws shoe should always be touch the work
Since the corrugated pipe doesn’t need coupling and elbows or other fittings, does that mean roots won’t get into it? From what you mentioned about the rigid pipes having roots get into the joints of these systems, does eliminating the joints with corrugated pipe also eliminate the roots issues?
Corrugated pipe has T's, Y's, etc that are loosely connected and therefore are subject to leaks or roots. Schedule 40 joints are welded with cement and don't leak as stated here. They're the same joints the inside walls of most houses. How often do drainage pipes leak inside the walls of houses? It's the strongest vs future large tree roots. You can seal other pipes if you need to. Corrugated needs to be checked every 6" for fall in and bellies when small amounts of fall are all that's available. It also always has standing water inside it, even with plenty of fall. Straight pipe doesn't retain water.
Corrugated pipe retain dirt n water. Can have small crack that is penetrated by roots . Also corrugated coupling , Y and T are loosely fitted . Root would get in corrugated like in no time
At 14:37: everything should connect to the downspout drain. I don't think a french drain (or footer tile) should connect to a downspout drain. I've read elsewhere that if the french drain is connected to the downspout drain, and if a torrential rain causes the downspout drain to backup, then the excess water will backup into the french drain. I installed three downspout drains, each with its own line to the street and separate from the french drain (actually footer tile). I have six lines discharging to the street - three downspout drains, one sump pump discharge handling two 20-foot lengths of footer tile, one channel drain, and a 20-foot gravity-to-daylight footer tile. I used three runs of 20-foot easy flow for the footer tiles, and six pieces of 30-foot corrugated pipe for each discharge to the street, each terminating into its own catch basin at the curb.
I agree. Also, if the rain is so torrential that the downspouts are filling that discharge with a lot of water, it will create back pressure for the sump pump, especially if the street is flooded, forcing it work harder to push against that water, and maybe fail to empty the sump.
@@jkevin1569 Yes, that would work. I used 4-inch diameter pipe for the 3 downspout drains to the street. But, like you said, joining the 3 downspout drains to one 6-inch diameter pipe to the street would have saved me some trenching.
We have videos showing Scheduled 40 full of roots.. cracked and broken, but the concept of this video is there are better pipe for Rainwater Drainage Thanks for your comment
I have a Covert running under the road to my yard so I’m planning on running 6” tile to the creek 250 An I have A gravel driveway was planning on using 6” pvc under the driveway witch is about 30’ wide An I’m trying to see what would be best I have some heavy equipment coming in sometimes to dump wood chips or 16’ trailer of wood thanks in advance for any help on this
I've seen that thin wall PVC material crack. Maybe because of setting or ground shifting. How can roots get into sch40 PVC if you glue the pipes together? The two piece are fused together. Show us an example of roots getting into glued PVC. That black corrugated material are a bitch to snake out.
white charlotte sch 40 PVC - 4" comes in solid core AND DWV cellular core ...Two kinds of sch 40... same manufacturer. His sch 40 said DWV right on the pipe and wasn't solid core PVC but was foam core PVC
Very informative videos. I am in need of a little advice. I need to install a downspout runoff drain 65 ft long. due to ground slope etc I will have the top of the 4 inch pipe only 5 inches below ground. We drive and park our cars in the grass. Am I asking for trouble? What pipe would you use? Should I dig the trench as narrow as possible? Thanx
What's best for inside a crawlspace? I have a tall crawlspace (with some standing room) where I've already trenched around the perimeter. Most of the trench is only 6" deep, but in one place the pipe will be buried under about 18 inches of gravel along the footing. Corrugated will be easier to maneuver in the space, but will it hold up to 18" of gravel? I also have two pits that I'd like to connect to each other with a pipe that will run through the middle of the floor, where it will be walked on, with about 2 inches of gravel cover. Will corrugated hold up there?
Good information Chuck! One question, at 0:43 it shows the PVC pipe is schedule 40, but I also see “DWV”. Is that pipe a regular schedule 40 or a DWV type? I’m a little confused. Thanks!
go big or go home-labor is the big portion of drain installs-crazy to wait 25-30 years and find roots have entered your corrugated even if triple lumen.
I have seen roots and damage in all the pipes you are discussing in this video. A french drain under 8 feet of topsoil is a stop gap at best, especially with no method of cleanout. Sediment cloth over time will eventually clog and totally stop the flow of water into any type of pipe. Schedule 40 and SGR-35 are the only pipes you can clean out effectively that i have used, Corrugated pipe almost always in my opinion is the most likely to become distorted and clogged and rendered useless. I have been building and dealing with water problems for 28 years in the mountains of WNC. I still don't think i have the answer on the perfect pipe or best method, to keep a french drain operating at peak efficiency indefinitely.
I'm getting a paver job done and the original drainage pipes were under the slab, the guy tells me that I don't need it. he said he will put an 8ft gravel base and then a 4" qp base and run 4" drain pipe to the sump pump. He states that should be enough. The area of the pavers is problem 20 x 20. with the back yard on a hill where water runs toward the house. what should i do?
As someone who used to do aerating for a landscape company, I’ll say the plugs are usually 2-3” long. If your pipe is a safe distance deeper it shouldn’t be a problem. Walk and tow aerators are usually significantly lighter and shallower than ride ons which sometimes use a hydraulic press. However the ride ons are able to pull better plugs in tough soil.
Cannot even find 4" SDR35 or thin wall PVC anywhere in the pacific NW due to a plandemic resin shortage. Sold out, no ETA, near zero fittings too. I have partially complete drainage with no clean out adapters and a need 80' more of pipe but can't find any. Getting ridiculous as we enter heavy rain season. Shortage on many PEX fittings too and PVC food grade buckets/lids. Great video. Thank you.
That corrugated pipe collects shingle dust washing off the roof and is a trap for leaves/dirt (and it traps obscene amounts of water in those grooves as well) - good luck keeping it clean as it will fill-up with crap and clog before you get around to any annual maintenance - I wouldn't use it unless I was desperate and it was my *ONLY* option in a home flooding situation! I would not consider it for French Drains for the same dirt *and* water trapping/clogging reason, PVC + lots of gravel is the way to go there. Water runs best along smooth surfaces, why throw that undisputed science out the window and use pipe that isn't smooth to remove your water problems?
Exact thought everytime I see it used. I could only imagine using it on serious slopes (>50%) where the angle and force of water flow would allow self cleaning of the pipe throughout the year
Some commenters make an argument for schedule 40 pipe. Schedule 40 is hands down stronger than the others but...SDR35 is the standard pipe called out for use for underground sewer lines. If it is good enough for sewer lines than it should be good enough for drain lines as well.... as with all decisions the application must be kept in mind. If you are going to drive over it or put a rockery over a pipe with minimal coverage it is going to need to be stronger. Chuck obviously has a lot of experience and if he has good success with coorogated pipe than you probably will too. (Unless you have minimal coverage, poorly drained squishy soil, are passing through trees or may apply excess pressure to it. (Think, roof replacement or any other delivery. (Dumpster, soil, concrete etc.)
Chuck, I need your expertise. I am redoing my driveway which has a downspout need to the garage which meets at the driveway and walkway. I would like to put a catch basin and pipe it out to the end of the driveway. What products to use? PVC or the black o-Tile pipe. I live near Port Huron Michigan which gets snow, ice freeze thaws freeze again all winter long. What piping I should use how dip to dig it and can I put it next to the new cemented driveway. Thanks in advance for your expertise. Best regards Dana
I only do SCH40. I've dug up too much of that corrugated garbage and watched thin wall crack over the years. SCH40 you pay more for now, but less later.
Perforated corrugated pipe is good for slowing and absorbing surface water that cant drain out flat or low yards. The type of pipe to use depends on what you are trying to do with the water. Pvc for fast drainage of downspouts and corrugated for modified french drains and allowing surface water to disperse into the ground where drainage isnt an option its just give the water somewhere to be other than the surface.
I am in the process of hiring a company to do a french drain aroiund a concrete patio/ walkway area due to water entering my home through a back door at ground level. The backyard property slopes towards the house and when we get torrential rains water can and has come into the house. I am wanting a french drain installed with no dirt on top to maximize the removal of water faster. What should I look for the company to recommend to use as far as materials.
Would a good qualifying factor to use the corrugated pipe be that there are zero trees in the area you are putting it? And is it okay to tie existing systems into it that are with SDR35?
Go with green sewer pipe. It will hold up a lot longer. Corrugated pipe from big box stores is no good. Sediment and dirt slowly build up in those pipes over time causing the entire system to fail.
@@StormWaterDrainageSolutions - Could put a Y at the downspout with a cap to allow cleanout with a garden hose, if not too many bends and not too long.
Where does my water flow if my home is downhill about 10ft below street level and 60ft from street. Below my home is a golf course and I can see what looks like storm drain circle cover about 30inch In diameter at the bottom of the hill. Am I supposed to tie into that drain? How?
I spent the last 20 years of my life replacing broken clay tile, corrugated elephant pipe on a golf course. None of the sdr 35 stuff was an issue. Personally I'll stick with that or sch 40.
I like the FDM but, Chuck is so honest & sincere never putting down a product or company.
As I mentioned in my comment about adapting schedule 40 to schedule 35 all that you have to do is buy a thin wall coupling and you can glue that inside of a schedule 40 coupling it fits perfect and glues very well and now you can adapt your thin wall into the thin wall side of the coupling..
A little tip to cut the pipe straight is to put a hose clap around the pipe and then butt the hack saw up against the clap and cut .
Great idea. I'm going to absolutely do this in the future.👍
SDR-35 is the way to go. That downspout adapter fits on sdr. Strong and easy to work with. Thanks for the info.
Love guys who know their stuff and are willing to share their knowledge! He’s super and deserves much thanks! 👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Facts! Dude is awesome! We need more people like him in the world. You must share what you’ve learned, so the next person can too. That’s how things should be
I like this guy. Thanks for putting your years of experience into these videos for all to learn from
I hear so much conflicting information on which pipe is best. It seems PVC is much better at retaining water flow as there are no corrugations impeding the speed of the water and also much easier to maintain adequate slope without bellies. This helps with keeping the drain clear of debris and minimizing residual water in the pipe which is what the roots are seeking. PVC is also much easier to clean out if it happens to get clogged. I've done a lot of research on this topic and am struggling to find a good reason to use corrugated other than ease of installation.
Go with the green PVC sewer pipe. It’s strong, cost effective and will last. I have removed hundreds of failed corrugated systems. The corrugated pipe that is sold at the big box stores is no good. To have a quality corrugated pipe/french drain system installed costs a lot of $$$ and is only really needed in certain situations.
Corrugated holds some water so plants seek it out. HDPE is the best choice, flows beautifully, does not hold water.
Yup, there is no right answer, apparently. I wouldn't use corrugated because with low flow it's going to collect dirt in the corrugations and too easy to have bellies that hold water begging for roots to get into it.
I have had to dig up corrugated runs before that were collapsed and clogged in spots. Do it once the right way no matter the initial cost. Cannot underestimate how important proper drainage is to a foundation, the cost is worth it.
@@miked8227 what do u propose to use?
Interesting and good video. Have to say, I worked in a pipe factory here in Australia and we made corrugated PVC pipe.
As I understand it, for hooking up to house or garage downpipes where you need water taken away from roofs quickly then smooth pvc pipe to roadway is the way to go. But if you have boggy areas in your back lawn, a French drain with corrugated slit pipes works well. Ensure the corrugated pipe has a sock over it and good clean stones to let surface water sink through the stones, into the slits and sock into the pipe. Great for long slower drainage to enable lawn to dry. Ensure no clay soil on top of the stones as this will simply block any water from entering the pipe to drain away and will just sit on top.
Thanks for posting this video! Was debating between SDR 35 and schedule 40 because I have to run it under a new driveway pour as well. I was worried it would crush under a driveway.
SDR 35 is what we run under our driveway, works great!
Thank you for this video. Stopped me from doing a big mistake... Cheers Maurice :)
You are my go to source for small drains , I just bid my first one in a long time since I got back in the business.
If you value this limited crap he’s spewing, go watch the frenchdrainman. He also sells the best stuff I’ve ever worked with and I have 35 years of contracting experience and hold 6 different licenses.👍
I have a long pipe done with SDR-26 gasketed pipe that I had installed for a surface drain. It's similar to SDR-35 but has gasketed fittings that do not require glue. My installer got it from a waterworks supply house, not HD or Lowes.
I'm so glad I watched this! Getting the 35 and taking back other stuff!
I got an excavator and made a 100' run of 4" corrugated black pipe that I bought at Home Depot. It worked perfectly for two whole years. Then I had to dig it up because it was clogged and couldn't be snaked. So for the last few years there is a 100' open trench that carries water, but I have it staked off so no one breaks their leg falling into it. So, I have about a dozen lengths of heavy schedule 8" pipe to replace it. As soon as it warms up, I will install that pipe and be done with it.
"...The secret is you have to cut clean through the pipe" After all these years I never thought to cut all the way through the pipe!! Brilliant!!
And a reciprocating saw bounces when you aren't holding it down. Who'd have thought 🤔😅
Reading comprehension/listening issue. Pretty sure he means to cut clean through Pipe after you've begun your cut. Ie - no stopping
Thank you for such an informative video about about PVC pipe and Corrugated🚣♂️ Drainage Pipe. Definitely Worth listening to though the whole video. I use the Corigated Drainage Pipe on the backyard fence problem where the rain collected and it works perfectly no more flooding for three back yards, pretty big backyards that looked like a lake. I wish I could show you a picture of it🚣♂️🚣♀️⛵⛵🏄♂️🏄♀️🏊♂️🏊♀️👧
Thank you for your comment (👍)👧
The main draw back with PVC sch. 40 is price ,little harder to work with if you have the correct tools you can eliminate a lot of that, it will out last the big box corrugated pipe .Some jobs with out a doubt must use PVC sch. 40 .If sch 40 has root issues big box corrugated pipe will be twice as bad .
It is also worth noting that if the fall is correct on schedule 40, hardly any water will remain in it for roots to seek. Corrugated will ALWAYS retain water...what the roots want. For some reason, Chuck never mentions this.
Exactly.
Which one is first gonna freeze & crack @ temps below zero?
@@ErcanALTINEL corrugated actually. PVC only fails when it’s fully filled with water and the must freezes while at capacity.
@@daveray6335 think he is trying to justify what he has been using for years.
I was just watching a video from Gate City foundations or drainage and he said they only use schedule 40 for french drains. Now im really confused.
Depends upon traffic if any, temperature range, number of bends, soil type, amount of rainfall, amount and type of vegetation.
My experience corrugated clogs easily..........
Love love love this guy, but I used 500’ of schedule 40 to do my yard, some of which was pre-perforated for use in a French drain, and it wasn’t cheap but with any luck I should never have to think about it again. I was able to find some adapters for my downspouts into sch 40, and that cemented my decision.
The Problem I Have With The Thin Wall Pipe Is The Cost Of The Fittings! They Cost As Much As twice What I Get The Schedule 40 Ones For! That May Just Be Our Suppliers Here In North Alabama But The Cost Is Prohibitive!
You are awesome, dude. thanks for saving me a ton of money! This makes a whole ton of sense!
Always great information and demonstration…….. Thanks Chuck from Oklahoma
He's right about getting roots. ANY pipe that is glued together and especially corrugated pipe will get roots. I have heard of some using silicone to fix the issue but I'm not sure if that works so I cannot speak on that.
I'm at loss about how to install a French drain now, if I need to drill holes for water runoff, but need to seal the pipes to mitigate root infiltration
Love watching your videos,learn a lot from them
Chuck, I learn so much from you …. I can’t thank you enough!!
DWV to S&D adapters are available. I like the SDR 35, used the perf in my wastewater drainfield
Another good one Chuck, jealous of that sweet hack saw!
You'd think the corrugated pipe and the thinwall PVC would snap like a twig or at least crush by how flimsy it "looks". I've actually stomped corrugated. It is strong.
If you don't bury schedule 40 pipe the first time, you will the second.
I take it you have had good success with schedule 40, and less so with other types of pipe? Trying to decide which one to use and your comment is in direct contrast with Chuck's recommendation. I like the beefiness of SCH 40, personally, but just curious to learn more of your experience.
@@bmfitzgerald3 I'm a union plumber and on ALL of my personal projects I only use sch 40 and yes you can get sch 40 downspout adapters along with ANY other type of fitting. On commercial job sites I've used all the types of pipe mentioned, I install what the print calls for. I've also replaced all the other types of pipe due to excessive ditch depth and moving loads crushing these pipes, never sch 40. I believe he described exactly why he choses not to use sch 40 pipe, it's a bitch standing on your head in a 30" ditch full of slop trying to cut the heavy pipe to make a connection. The ONLY downfall to using sch 40 underground is cost, but like they say... buy once cry once.
Love your videos Chuck. You are the best on UA-cam. I wish you were in KC so I could have to fix this mess the other contractor put in.
I’ve finally found a guy to do my exterior FD. It’s too deep for me to dig. Roughly 6’ and it’s a long run. Anyway he wants to use the EZ pre wrapped corrugated. I was hoping to use a high quality corrugated and do a burrito wrap but being to hole is so deep I don’t think he wants to be doing the extra work and I do like the idea of cost savings. Do you think the EZ pre wrapped will be ok down that deep ? I only want to do this project once and I have a lot of water. I appreciate you feedback
Your comment @1:50 reminded me of a sticker my brother (a mechanic)
had on his toolbox:
"THE REASON I HAVE THE TOOL YOU WANT TO BORROW IS:
I DON'T F@$>=+! LEND IT OUT!!"
Cool Vid! Thanks!!
Rule #1.. Next tool on your " To Purchase List " is the one you have to borrow the most from your lead hand.
Rule #2.. NEVER Lend ANY tool to anyone you don't work directly with.
I Use My Skillsaw For Pipes Less Than 3 Inches and My Ryobi Sawsall For Pipe Over 2 inches! It Is So Much Easier Just To Whack It In Two With My $59 Ryobi Battery Powered Tool! I Have Had To Use The Multi Tool To Flush Cut Pipes Also! Love Your Videos But Have Seen These On Your Other Channel!
From the sound of the cut on your hacksaw, it sounds like you installed the blade backward and you're cutting on the backstroke instead of the forward stroke.
I buy pipe to move water. Could you set up 10' of each pipe on the same slope, and pour a gallon of water through each measuring what comes out the other end?
What depth would you suggest to start digging under a driveway that will have about a 150 foot run for an underground drain ? I have a great run off to a ravine to discharge the water.
I have the same hacaksaw, its 40+years old
Fine tooth reciprocating blade is key. Also, there is a setting for smooth cuts
If properly installed thin wall same a septic tank system uses . I’ve never seen schedule 40 pre drilled for french drainage
I wouldn't recommend corrugated with downspouts. The leaves and shingle dust will fill up and block corrugated in just a few years. Roots only get into PVC pipes that are cracked or leak from the fittings. If they aren't leaking they aren't getting root invasion. PVC is also easier to clean but I agree that thin walled PVC is probably sufficient for drainage applications unless there's a driveway or something heavy going over it.
When my house was built, the builder put a corrugated gutter drain under the front yard. It failed totally in about 4 years. I dug it all out and installed Sch 40. Twenty-five years later it remains root and clog free. I would not waste a nickel on corrugated piping.
There is an adapter to go from sch 40 to the green pipe. If u are worried about heavy traffic like large trucks on a driveway or something schedule 40 is good. Sdr35 is my go to pipe if I can get it. Pickings have been slim at the suppliers around here the last year or so... so iv been using whatever material is availabile... sch40 is also extremely expensive now days
Amazing information & great knowledge obtained!! Thank you!
Which down spout adapter do you recommend: centered or offset? Centered you can slide it up and down on the down spout if necessary. Thanks for advice
Everyone needs to keep in mind: Corrugated pipe comes in SINGLE WALL and DUAL WALL. Both are flexible to an extent (dual far less so). BUT, dual wall (smooth inner wall) will not crack nor will it collapse like thin, single wall corrugated pipe. HD carries rolls of thin single wall pipe that WILL COLLAPSE under pressure over time. For this reason, though cheap and readily available, use CAUTION when using it. Downspouts will back-up if these get crushed.
TY. This was titled French Drain which assumes it captures ground water coming up. These have no holes. Are we supposed to put holes into the bottoms of the blue pipe? How far apart and what size?
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Thank you! So Sch 40 PVC is not great for rainwater collection, got it! But is Sch 40 PVC good at ground water drainage such as in a footer drain system?
One hint using any hand saw-to get a straight cut point your index finger forward and rest on saw. Also you are cutting om the back stroke point blade teeth forward and let the saw weight do the cut with long slower strokes. The saw should cut on the forward stroke only. The recipo saws shoe should always be touch the work
Since the corrugated pipe doesn’t need coupling and elbows or other fittings, does that mean roots won’t get into it? From what you mentioned about the rigid pipes having roots get into the joints of these systems, does eliminating the joints with corrugated pipe also eliminate the roots issues?
roots have the easiest time getting into that water and debris retaining garbage.
Corrugated pipe has T's, Y's, etc that are loosely connected and therefore are subject to leaks or roots. Schedule 40 joints are welded with cement and don't leak as stated here. They're the same joints the inside walls of most houses. How often do drainage pipes leak inside the walls of houses? It's the strongest vs future large tree roots. You can seal other pipes if you need to.
Corrugated needs to be checked every 6" for fall in and bellies when small amounts of fall are all that's available. It also always has standing water inside it, even with plenty of fall. Straight pipe doesn't retain water.
Corrugated pipe retain dirt n water.
Can have small crack that is penetrated by roots .
Also corrugated coupling , Y and T are loosely fitted . Root would get in corrugated like in no time
At 14:37: everything should connect to the downspout drain. I don't think a french drain (or footer tile) should connect to a downspout drain. I've read elsewhere that if the french drain is connected to the downspout drain, and if a torrential rain causes the downspout drain to backup, then the excess water will backup into the french drain. I installed three downspout drains, each with its own line to the street and separate from the french drain (actually footer tile). I have six lines discharging to the street - three downspout drains, one sump pump discharge handling two 20-foot lengths of footer tile, one channel drain, and a 20-foot gravity-to-daylight footer tile. I used three runs of 20-foot easy flow for the footer tiles, and six pieces of 30-foot corrugated pipe for each discharge to the street, each terminating into its own catch basin at the curb.
I agree. Also, if the rain is so torrential that the downspouts are filling that discharge with a lot of water, it will create back pressure for the sump pump, especially if the street is flooded, forcing it work harder to push against that water, and maybe fail to empty the sump.
No need for a separate pipes. Just run the 6 inch main line connected to each downspout drains but do keep the French in a separate run
@@jkevin1569 Yes, that would work. I used 4-inch diameter pipe for the 3 downspout drains to the street. But, like you said, joining the 3 downspout drains to one 6-inch diameter pipe to the street would have saved me some trenching.
Expecting monsoons?
I have seen corrugated and schedule 20 destroyed in foundation french drains and runoff drainage. Never seen any damage to schedule 40.
We have videos showing Scheduled 40 full of roots.. cracked and broken, but the concept of this video is there are better pipe for Rainwater Drainage
Thanks for your comment
I have a Covert running under the road to my yard so I’m planning on running 6” tile to the creek 250 An I have A gravel driveway was planning on using 6” pvc under the driveway witch is about 30’ wide An I’m trying to see what would be best I have some heavy equipment coming in sometimes to dump wood chips or 16’ trailer of wood thanks in advance for any help on this
Thanks for all this info.
Thank you for your knowledge
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Very helpful
For the thin wall PVC 4" sewer and drain pipe lowes had it in white and green. What is the purpose of one vs the other?
Is pvc 40 good for a area with no trees, and just common foot traffic by the patio.
He suggests Schedule 35 in 10’ sections For drainage pipe
Had mine 38 years. Favorite .
I've seen that thin wall PVC material crack. Maybe because of setting or ground shifting. How can roots get into sch40 PVC if you glue the pipes together? The two piece are fused together. Show us an example of roots getting into glued PVC. That black corrugated material are a bitch to snake out.
Can 3” abs be used? The 1/4 wall stuff? I have some extra lengths.. seems like it would be good.
white charlotte sch 40 PVC - 4" comes in solid core AND DWV cellular core ...Two kinds of sch 40... same manufacturer. His sch 40 said DWV right on the pipe and wasn't solid core PVC but was foam core PVC
Very informative videos. I am
in need of a little advice. I need to install a downspout runoff drain 65 ft long. due to ground slope etc I will have the top of the 4 inch pipe only 5 inches below ground. We drive and park our cars in the grass. Am I asking for trouble? What pipe would you use? Should I dig the trench as narrow as possible? Thanx
Very informative. Thank you Chuck
What's best for inside a crawlspace? I have a tall crawlspace (with some standing room) where I've already trenched around the perimeter. Most of the trench is only 6" deep, but in one place the pipe will be buried under about 18 inches of gravel along the footing. Corrugated will be easier to maneuver in the space, but will it hold up to 18" of gravel?
I also have two pits that I'd like to connect to each other with a pipe that will run through the middle of the floor, where it will be walked on, with about 2 inches of gravel cover. Will corrugated hold up there?
Do you recommend the SDR-35 under driveways instead of 4" sched 40 PVC? Seems like the Sched 40 would withstand a truck on the driveway better?
Good information Chuck! One question, at 0:43 it shows the PVC pipe is schedule 40, but I also see “DWV”. Is that pipe a regular schedule 40 or a DWV type? I’m a little confused. Thanks!
GREAT VIDEO. VERY COOL.
What's your opinion on duel wall smooth corrugated? For tying in downspouts? Also, to deal eith the s-40. Why not tape the seams?
Great video. What would you use if it was being placed in a front yard where vehicles will drive over it? Thanks
13:19 he covers it. Says SDR 35
If I have good drainage, can I use a pop up emitter at the end since I have no where to run pipe?
go big or go home-labor is the big portion of drain installs-crazy to wait 25-30 years and find roots have entered your corrugated even if triple lumen.
Thank you apple drains!
When you go u dear drive way or through the curb hole, PVC schedule 40 is the best. It strong enough to handle weight
I have seen roots and damage in all the pipes you are discussing in this video. A french drain under 8 feet of topsoil is a stop gap at best, especially with no method of cleanout. Sediment cloth over time will eventually clog and totally stop the flow of water into any type of pipe. Schedule 40 and SGR-35 are the only pipes you can clean out effectively that i have used, Corrugated pipe almost always in my opinion is the most likely to become distorted and clogged and rendered useless.
I have been building and dealing with water problems for 28 years in the mountains of WNC. I still don't think i have the answer on the perfect pipe or best method, to keep a french drain operating at peak efficiency indefinitely.
well said!
Boy you'd go out of business in Costal Oregon, where we often get 150" annually
Totally agree! Because French drain pipes have holes which allow tree roots find they’re way in.
When using the sdr 35 pipe, does the trench need to be backfilled with small stone or can you fill the trench with the same dirt you dug out?
i used my power mitre saw (chop saw)
I'm getting a paver job done and the original drainage pipes were under the slab, the guy tells me that I don't need it. he said he will put an 8ft gravel base and then a 4" qp base and run 4" drain pipe to the sump pump. He states that should be enough. The area of the pavers is problem 20 x 20. with the back yard on a hill where water runs toward the house. what should i do?
Am I missing something....the pipe is not perforated. So I don't see how SDR35 would be so great as a french drain...being that it's not perforated.
Use a 4 inch to 3 inch adapter for the schedule 40 pvc for connecting down spouts.
One more question: When I core aerate this spring, will the aerator punch holes in the PVC pipe?
As someone who used to do aerating for a landscape company, I’ll say the plugs are usually 2-3” long. If your pipe is a safe distance deeper it shouldn’t be a problem. Walk and tow aerators are usually significantly lighter and shallower than ride ons which sometimes use a hydraulic press. However the ride ons are able to pull better plugs in tough soil.
Cannot even find 4" SDR35 or thin wall PVC anywhere in the pacific NW due to a plandemic resin shortage. Sold out, no ETA, near zero fittings too. I have partially complete drainage with no clean out adapters and a need 80' more of pipe but can't find any. Getting ridiculous as we enter heavy rain season. Shortage on many PEX fittings too and PVC food grade buckets/lids. Great video. Thank you.
That corrugated pipe collects shingle dust washing off the roof and is a trap for leaves/dirt (and it traps obscene amounts of water in those grooves as well) - good luck keeping it clean as it will fill-up with crap and clog before you get around to any annual maintenance - I wouldn't use it unless I was desperate and it was my *ONLY* option in a home flooding situation! I would not consider it for French Drains for the same dirt *and* water trapping/clogging reason, PVC + lots of gravel is the way to go there. Water runs best along smooth surfaces, why throw that undisputed science out the window and use pipe that isn't smooth to remove your water problems?
Exact thought everytime I see it used. I could only imagine using it on serious slopes (>50%) where the angle and force of water flow would allow self cleaning of the pipe throughout the year
Do 4 inch end caps fit all of those
Some commenters make an argument for schedule 40 pipe. Schedule 40 is hands down stronger than the others but...SDR35 is the standard pipe called out for use for underground sewer lines. If it is good enough for sewer lines than it should be good enough for drain lines as well.... as with all decisions the application must be kept in mind. If you are going to drive over it or put a rockery over a pipe with minimal coverage it is going to need to be stronger. Chuck obviously has a lot of experience and if he has good success with coorogated pipe than you probably will too. (Unless you have minimal coverage, poorly drained squishy soil, are passing through trees or may apply excess pressure to it. (Think, roof replacement or any other delivery. (Dumpster, soil, concrete etc.)
Chuck, I need your expertise. I am redoing my driveway which has a downspout need to the garage which meets at the driveway and walkway. I would like to put a catch basin and pipe it out to the end of the driveway. What products to use? PVC or the black o-Tile pipe. I live near Port Huron Michigan which gets snow, ice freeze thaws freeze again all winter long. What piping I should use how dip to dig it and can I put it next to the new cemented driveway. Thanks in advance for your expertise. Best regards Dana
If pvc is cleaned and glued properly roots cannot penatrate the the pipe. Water pipes will last 50 years or more because they're not supposed to leak.
I only do SCH40. I've dug up too much of that corrugated garbage and watched thin wall crack over the years. SCH40 you pay more for now, but less later.
Roots always search for water and nutrients. Eventually they will infiltrate via connecting fittings
Perforated corrugated pipe is good for slowing and absorbing surface water that cant drain out flat or low yards. The type of pipe to use depends on what you are trying to do with the water. Pvc for fast drainage of downspouts and corrugated for modified french drains and allowing surface water to disperse into the ground where drainage isnt an option its just give the water somewhere to be other than the surface.
I am in the process of hiring a company to do a french drain aroiund a concrete patio/ walkway area due to water entering my home through a back door at ground level. The backyard property slopes towards the house and when we get torrential rains water can and has come into the house. I am wanting a french drain installed with no dirt on top to maximize the removal of water faster. What should I look for the company to recommend to use as far as materials.
Would a good qualifying factor to use the corrugated pipe be that there are zero trees in the area you are putting it? And is it okay to tie existing systems into it that are with SDR35?
Go with green sewer pipe. It will hold up a lot longer. Corrugated pipe from big box stores is no good. Sediment and dirt slowly build up in those pipes over time causing the entire system to fail.
@@StormWaterDrainageSolutions - Could put a Y at the downspout with a cap to allow cleanout with a garden hose, if not too many bends and not too long.
At the start, I thought he was holding a roll of Charmin "Heeeyyy good morning!" :D
Where does my water flow if my home is downhill about 10ft below street level and 60ft from street. Below my home is a golf course and I can see what looks like storm drain circle cover about 30inch In diameter at the bottom of the hill. Am I supposed to tie into that drain? How?
Should you use perforated or non perforated corrugated pipe for french drain or rainwater drainage next to your house?
Solid for rainwater drainage. Perforated for french drain at least 4' away from the house. You should study and learn more before starting a project.